WORLDS SHARPEST MORA? - How to sharpen a Mora Bushcraft (Scandi)

beautiful polished and cleaned up back to the sharpening table so today I have obviously a more Olmos you have owned and use Morris I'd say everyone has probably heard of a more knives made in Sweden this is a bushcraft model this is not in my knife this belongs to a friend of mine and slash customer I guess you could say he dropped this off this morning and let me tell you what he wants done this is a scandi growing knife which it's had a small micro bevel put on it so he wants the bevel corrected to a truce candy I noticed it's a bit of a bit of a rough grind there now so he wants a nice clean mirror polish to match the face up here and he wants the spine corrected to a 90 M it's a little bit round right now so I'm going to do both of those things with this knife today start off I have a tub of water and soap over here with my whetstone I'm just going to take this rough tool stone here and I'm going to start off by crimping some sandpaper over the sides of the stone this little trick I've done few times recently when I've got to do some more serious grinding so I'll pinch this Sam tape around the stone and then I'll put a little clamp I have hair around just enough to hold it place and what this will do this sandpaper is coarser than any stone I have this is 100 grit sandpaper here and this stone provides a nice flat surface and I can get my hands down around but that's how I'll start because they re flattening a scandi like this is quite a bit of work it's not a real easy thing to do if you want a nice coarse stone and ice DMT would be great but I I don't have one of those don't have this oh those maybe in the future but this has been walking great so I'm going to start here and we'll see how it goes so I've been grinding here for just a few minutes you can already see let me try to get a nice sharp image for it you can already see some nice consistent scratch patterns here what you're watching for is that micro bevel because that's what's set in far enough are the the that's what's setting the most distance from your stone so you're watching that micro bevel disappear or get smaller and smaller until it disappears and once it disappears you can move on to some finer grits and begin honing for right now you can see there's a definite you see when I tilt the light like that this brightly colored edge next to that nice flat color back here that lets you know that that's a different angle so we need to remove that entirely so you can definitely see it right there starting to disappear a little bit up around the front but we're getting a nice lovely scratch pattern see that know something they're getting a nice even finish so keep going until I remove that MicroBot okay so take note now we're just about done on this side and notice when I move this surrounding the light you do not really see a micro bevel at the edge see those nice clean striations go right right to the apex so that's what you're looking for now keep in mind when you're doing this like I haven't touched the other side yet and see there's a very distinct micro bevel on this side but because you're removing so much material you don't need to do the same amount of strokes on each side or keep the keep switching back and forth get used to the angle on one side sharpen all the way until you've made it and then switch over you have to sharpen all the way to the apex anyways so that's your guide not number of strokes skeet going on one side until you get rid of that micro bevel then switch over now I have to do the same thing on this side and then we'll even it okay so this side I'm going to work on now and I'll show you when it's done on both sides of this death will now see nice consistent striations are in the steel on both sides which is a beautiful look I've come pretty well right out to the to the apex so we should have close to a perfect apex here now except with that 100 grit of course it's a little bit we're off and crumbly a little bit more like a little micro salty if you want a picture once you have actually created the bevel which takes a bit of time that's the majority of your work actually honing or going through the stages of refining the edge is is a pretty miniscule compared to actually creating creating this shape of the edge so this shouldn't take too long at all here once I I'm going to go with the 180 I might have some 320 here but if I don't I'll go right to 400 and it upwards from there so I just finished up with 400 grit see if I can get you a closer look here at the finish what 400 grit looks like got a decent bit of light coming up in the window there and it's a nice doll nice even striations 400 grit is an actual is actually pretty nice grit in my opinion for just for just rough work if you were just having kind of a beater knife 400 grit is a nice feel super as like a really big bite to it feels great so what I'm going to do from here is move over to my whetstone the 1000 grit so I'm going to get rid of that piece then we have a beautiful synthetic combo stone here let's start working on the 1000 grit and try to get a nice nice even finish remember keep feeling that edge step 3 finger tests and also when you go to your stone like this if you're sharpening a perfect scan D your stones should be nice and flat you're going to long a nice and flat stone so you contact the bevel fully I can see already that I have a bit of hollow in my stone so I'm going to use technique I show before to flatten it my stone before I keep going so that's what I'm going to do now so I flatten my stone and now I'm working like I fit on the 1005 and it's nice because when you're working with the sandpaper sandpaper can tend to roll off a little bit so you have to try to get it as tight and flat as you can otherwise it might be rolling up and it might still be creating a micro bevel on your edge and that's okay to it very - degree but when you switch over to lays flat whetstone like this creates a problem and because you don't have a perfectly flat surface so it's always nice when you do sweat Childre to the whetstone and you realize that you do have a nice perfect flat level and it's just just a pleasure to work with now that I finished on the 1000 grit stone I'm just switching over to the 2,000 grit paper here partially born I'm just going to work it a little bit on the mm just as a to bridge the gap a little bit between the 6000 which is the phone off sharpening a knife like this right from I'll say ask Annie that's been modified with with the micro bevel going from there all the way back to a razor-sharp truce kandi is quite a bit of work yeah it's a bit of a job and you can you can see it's getting that beautiful polish on there now from the mm mm just a lovely grit as well this paper is great to I have there I also just cut into the paper there a little bit so I wouldn't make too big of a long stride because you're probably just dicing to your paper but to thousands of Li grit but as I was saying this is quite a big job it's a little bit daunting to I wouldn't I wouldn't want to do this too often now it's not a big deal for me here because I'm getting paid to do it so not a big deal I'll just charge appropriately of course but for my own knives this is why I work hard to keep them at a nice truce kandi because of once you have only that it is such a big job takes a while now if you have some real good DM T's I'm sure it would move a fair bit faster but still takes takes quite a bit because you're removing steel from such a large surface so I'm going to switch over to the to the 6005 of my stone here now give it a rinse first because it's all dirty with particle 1,000 side and this is the last stage of honing after that it'll be just some strapping and this should be one sharp life get rid of my paper there and let's give it a go I also when I refinish that 1000 side of the stone I also just check to see if this one was nice and flat as you can see with a little bit of sharpening already you can see him contacting the very middle of the stone so you know that she's nice and flat so here we have a customer's knife who brought it in with a micro bevel very rough grind and rounded spine has been corrected to a 90 degree spine then we have a nice Troost can be polished to a six thousand grit polish on the diamond paste is dropped and then finished on a non pasted strap let me tell you this is so ridiculously sharp a scandi like this you're able to get it so sharp and from what the beauty of OTUs candy is subsequent scharping sharpening now should be so much easier lay it flat on the stone the most beginner person almost could could sharpen a nice flats candied knife so let's take a look how good that edges okay so let's bring in the air I'm here get it focused for you looks like we're focused right about here just barely need to touch and the hairs just fly off of this beautiful knife if you've never held a bushcraft more bushcraft let me get you in focus area if you've never held a more bushcraft these are such cool knives of sharpen the couple now fairly heavy in the hand there's another beautiful polish so now cleaned up and a nice ergonomic handle great size and what I love is this handle here is a soft sticky rubber and it provides a crazy amount of traction highly recommended guys I hope you liked this video please hit the like button Mac polish so pretty hit the like button comment down below tell me what you thought about subscribe to my channel if you're not already subscribed thank you for watching

Channel: Kyle Noseworthy

Views: 504,813

Keywords: worlds sharpest knife, worlds sharpest mora, worlds sharpest mora knife, how to sharpen a knife, how to sharpen a scandi grind, how to sharpen a scandi knife, how to sharpen a mora, mora bushcraft, how to sharpen a mora bushcraft, bushcraft knife, knife sharpening, instructional knife sharpening, professional knife sharpening tip, NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR, bushcraft black

Id: uAblMAiNt_c

Length: 13min 41sec (821 seconds)

Published: Fri Jun 30 2017