How to Make Your New MORA Perfect!

ready to see that bevel that's how I like my morris this is the moral I believe it's the companion model it's brand spankin new the lovely knife it's a good knife but it's not fantastic yet not for me the companion model wasn't made to be a bushcraft model per se I I don't believe the spine is rounded so it has a nice rounded spine from factory to give it that cleaner look the edge is not that sharp which makes it not up to power for me I want that sharpened spine for in the woods so it controls back off a Ferro rod and a way to test that if you're looking at a knife in the store is to try to use the spine to shave your finger now if you can scrape shavings off your fingernail it'll cast a spark no problem right now this Morel won't add all just glides right over my fingernail so we need to fix those two things before this is a fantastic knife for me to take it in the woods like I said this is brand new hasn't been used yet sticker still on it so I'm going to take an $18 knife and make it perfect bring it up to its fullest potential for my uses in the woods so for starters because this is Scandi grind we're gonna want a nice flat surface I've talked about before you could use a nice single ceramic tile I have this nice little surface here of a jointer table it's a jointer for woodworking and this is a nice flat bench just at the right height for me working so I'm gonna use this but you can use any flat surface I'm gonna want to stick down some sandpaper now I'm gonna recommend sandpaper over this because flattening flattening a Scandi grind that's not flattened it takes a nice bit of work takes a while you really have to remove some steel so if your whetstone guy like me I don't like putting my wet stones through that especially when its customers knives and stuff I might be a little bit more lenient when it's my own if I wanted a certain way but if you're constantly doing it for like for other people too it really wears away at your stones take some sandpaper it's fairly cheap disposable and you can really work that hard and not worry about hollowing out your wet stones or things like that so I'm gonna start with some sandpaper just gonna stick it down I've got a little bit of craft adhesives it's just a like a multi-purpose spray adhesive I'm gonna spray a little bit just to stick the sandpaper in place I can clean it up after it's worth the time to put it down for me because just keeps everything in place and I can work the sandpaper a lot harder without it shuffling around on me [Applause] once that sticks will have just make sure you flatten it out nice and you'll have an excellent workstation just for your reference before we start working here it's a brand new Mora okay and that's been my experience pretty consistently with Morris that's about how I get them from factory ok I'm not definitely not sharp enough for me so we have our surface here are the sandpaper stuck in place which is fantastic and to save on my stones this is about an estimator an 80 grit paper just so it's medium but it's about an 80 grit so I'm just gonna lay my knife tip it on its candy grind okay so lay it on its side and then flip it up so the scandi touches and then you can give a few pushes and then let's have a look let's see what's happening here so I'm putting a little bit too much pressure on the actual edge right now I'm going to lighten up a little bit shouldn't take long to remove that steel with this heavy paper let's have a look here because remember it's a coarse sandpaper and we're gonna be cutting real fast it's doing well you see those nice strokes now I love that look almost satin finish and I'll keep working on one side just for your reference I'll keep working on one side until I completely remove that micro bevel there's no point in switching back and forth at this point you have to get that fire at a minimum on this side so understand the side and work until I get that micro bevel out of there so just finished up on that real coarse paper you can see those nice trations run right to the edge they're fairly deep but I'll do a few more real light strokes into the edge I have a nice burl on there now you can't really pick it up well on the camera but I'll just lightly pull that off just by drawing my edge lightly through a piece of wood and or cross grain like that just the weight of the knife and I'll help pull off that burr now what we'll do well I still have the real coarse paper set up we'll work on that spine you can even see the rounding as you see the light tapering to the spine see the look watch to the light here so the like rolls in over to show that rounded edge so I'll show you how to take care of that now with the coarse paper this part is actually super simple plant your knife try to keep it as square as you can so looking down on the edge helps you keep the edge nice and straight to the scrub to the sky and just work your knife this way I find is easiest to remove steel the fastest just keep an eye on that you're stalling you don't want to move never want to learn any more steel than you have to try to keep your angle nice and rigid any rolling like this just works too just it's going to take you longer to get that nice square age keep working your spine until we have a nice nice sharp edge okay so I've worked that spine you can see those nice scratch marks there and I've got a pretty square corner I've checked it with with the the fingernail test and let's see if I can show you here get in focus see how that's shaving look at that so easily just barely touched and it just shaves away my finger now so I know that'll scrape a fair rod very nicely I will take it up one more grit the next grit I do I will just take out some of these striations a little bit but I never polished my spine like you do with my bevel even though it's fairly square the more you tamper with it after you get this the more you'll start to smooth those corners so after you've gotten that nice nice shaving edge like a fingernail shaving edge don't tamper with it much you could leave it like this no problem it would probably be most effective actually if you just left it nice and coarse like this definitely doesn't look bad but I will take it up one more grit just to refine it a little bit more be careful you keep that square angle I'm going to do a few more strokes into that edge just to lighten up the scratch pattern a little bit and then we'll switch grits I've got some 100 grit paper here now this is pretty crappy 100 grit paper but the worst I've had but it'll do fine for this because not gonna spend too long on it but we're just gonna do the same technique the exact same thing and just start to remove those course scratch wrecks of the paper we started with you can see you could probably hear that this paper sounds totally different than the last stuff you don't hear that real heavy grinding the gouging into the knife which is a nice feeling okay so I'm just about finished up here with the 100 my last strokes are going to be just into the edge just a few strokes on each side I'll do four on each side and three and two and maybe a few wounds or something like that keeping consistent on that angle and decreasing pressure and I find this helps me just pull away that bird especially if I switch backs back and forth a few times because if I do it a few times on one saw it seems like sometimes it rolls the bird in the under and then when I switch over and it just helps grab it further just pull it out there okay so I figure Maura's big thing is providing value to their customer and I was going to move up after that 100 grit paper I was going to move up to my nice big fancy wet stones but in in the light of keeping with value just keep going with sandpaper I'm just gonna finish this knife with just sandpaper and then maybe some strapping at the end I finished that spine on the on the 100 grit paper which now it shaves shaves the finger now no problem so this is some 400 grit paper I do have a real nice Nano off 400 grit stone but I'm not going to use it it's a 400 grit paper which is my last piece by the way just gonna work on 400 straight from the 100 I find this is an easy jump to make especially if you have some good 400 grit paper you can go from 1 to 4 real nicely and it doesn't you don't have to spend too much time on the 400 grit paper so already I can see a huge difference in the scratch pattern the 400 is where you really start to get a nice looking bevel really nice-looking bevel so remember just stay on that grind got too much pressure keep that angle nice and flat just work on - it looks pretty working until you've got a nice uniform pattern right to the edge is mainly what you're looking for here so I've got some nice clean scratch patterns here of a 400 grit now and I just draw my edge lightly through a piece of wood piece of soft wood just to help clean up the bird a little bit and now I'm gonna finish off with a few light strokes going into the edge notice I'm not going back and forth to pull another burr off there just strokes into the edge to create a nice solid edge just sitting nice and flat on that on that scandi bevel I'm not trying to create my own angle here I tell you my sandpaper stock is getting really low I just mustered up some some scrap pieces of 2,000 grit it's getting pretty bad air I don't have to pick up some new stuff I go through a lot of sandpaper ah and then that happens a little too much pressure I'll try to keep it a little lighter and just work it I'll just work around it try to remove some of those 400 striations so now I've worked that paper long enough you can see I've got a nice polish little bit more hazy up around here but not a big deal now that I've worked it long enough I'll give this knife a few strokes into the edge by the time you get up to this grid of paper if you play your cards right like I've showed you on this video you shouldn't really have any burr if you like you can just take a take a piece of wood just to be sure and just give it a few just watch my hand here I'm just I'm not putting any weight on the knife I'm actually lifting off some weight of the knife drawing it through a piece of wood just to make sure there's no burr whatsoever and then just a few light strokes not increasing the angle at all it's just sitting right flat on that scandi if you like strokes right through just give that edge one last tidy up there okay so just to finish off this project nicely I'm gonna use this is my rough leather strop so it's a it's the back of a piece of leather the unfinished side just throw a little bit of compound in there it's mounted to a block of wood so it keeps it from rolling much or convex in the edge and I'm gonna I'm gonna strap it the same way I would sharpen it and that's to keep that bevel nice and flat on the leather not gonna do a lot of strapping here just a little bit remember keep it nice and flat don't increase that don't put a big convex on your edge that'll it'll get rid of some of the work you just spend a lot of time on okay that's enough strapping there I'll clean up that flat surface a little bit just by just laying it completely flat let's drop here just cleaning up the flat surface so if you draw strokes because the the factory growing is in this direction on the flat surface here so just do a few strokes in that direction and now I'll do the other side stay with that grind fresh freshly compounders strapped with some good paste can remove more steel than you think and feel this strap here now just kind of biting into the knife grabbing onto the knife okay a few strokes with the grain of the flat and I am applying a bit of pressure there does a nice little job of cleaning it up so what I'm gonna do now just to finish it off is maybe two on each side a light stroke with just a slight increase in angle using a little bit of pressure do one more just to increase that edge just to make it ever so slightly more thick I'll wipe off my compound any any a bit of a sticky compound on there so it doesn't dirty my other strap now I'm gonna go over to my finished face drop this is just a piece of like polished finished leather and I'm just going to increase my angle more than the flats kandi because this one doesn't really remove any steel increase my bevel a little bit few strokes this knife is done so our $18 Mora companion lovely little knife is now perfect for my needs ready to see that bevel just look at that and I did nothing but what you saw on the video I worked up to a 2,000 grit paper I did let's see I started off with approximately 60 to 80 grit paper course paper and there I went to a hundred for a few minutes to four hundred to two thousand and then the bit of dropping that you just saw and just look at that bevel and maybe you don't like a mirror polish but it's sharp and that's what we were going for her hair let's just get a good focus now we've got some paper hair now you can now that is a sharp knife that's how I like my Morris I mean [Music] that's so fun I could just sit and do it all day if you've never experienced a knife that sharp before it is something amazing and I tell you still curved right that's something special that is ittle treetop the hairs on the top of your head see if we can get a little hair clippers they're okay I won't do too much because I don't want bald arms again I don't know if you can see that or not but that knife is viciously sharp if you touch it now it's just got that feeling it like you just barely want to touch it it's so sharp put it back in the sheath it's ready to go in the woods with me you guys you can easily do this process yourself just follow the instructions as I showed and like I said with very little money I used maybe ten dollars worth of sandpaper in this video and for 10 bucks worth of paper you get a bunch more paper than I just used and you get packed a few packs of them right it'll do a lot of work if you liked this video hit the like button subscribe to my channel I know this video might bring in a lot of viewers because I know everybody likes a good Mura leave me a comment down below see in the next video

Channel: Kyle Noseworthy

Views: 884,669

Rating: 4.8492289 out of 5

Keywords: worlds sharpest mora, how to sharpen a mora, morakniv, how to sharpen a mora companion, how to sharpen a scandi, worlds sharpest knife, how to make your mora perfect, mora mod, mora custom, mora bushcraft, custom knife, how to sharpen a knife with sandpaper, sandpaper sharpening, cheapest sharpening method, how to sharpening

Id: TFGs_JAwJ2w

Length: 20min 33sec (1233 seconds)

Published: Mon Sep 11 2017