- [Narrator] This landscape looks straight out of a gimmicky
science-fiction film. A fiendish beauty, masking one of the most
inhospitable places on the planet. Sulfurous fumes, an acid river. This is the Danakil desert in Ethiopia. Here, all signs of life
have disappeared. Or almost. Hunger is the only
motivation for these men, who brave the open road
in unbearable heat. Because there is a
hidden treasure that lies in the Danakil desert, white gold. The salt workers earn 2 Euros per day, barely enough to survive. Some days, the temperature
reaches up to 50 degrees in the shade. The only problem being, there is no shade. Everybody cools down, before beginning the
three day expedition home. They will lead around one
hundred camels on the journey. It's much slower than a
truck, but much more reliable. And above all, much safer. Ethiopian roads are among the
most dangerous in the world. The infrastructure is
often dated and worn, and the car and truck
drivers have a golden rule that sends shivers down your spine. Whatever the mode of transport,
Ethiopians risk their lives. These antique 404s barely have
a functioning set of brakes, and the trains are no more secure. Built in 1917, this is the
oldest railway in Africa and, inevitably, there
are frequent accidents. This local train has a
few surprises in store for its passengers in
the middle of the desert. Ethiopia is said to be the
birthplace of humanity. In its forests, man took his first steps. And today these forests
are still home to savage and dangerous creatures. Dire Dawa Station comes
to life twice a week, from 5 o'clock in the morning. Each time, the atmosphere is tense. Nobody knows if there will be
enough space in the carriages. There is no electricity inside the train. Victor the driver checks that all is as it
should be with the engine, using a flashlight. - This for braking. This also brake. Eccelarate, dicelarate. This is changing the direction. When you go on park or front. - [Narrator] So everything
isn't quite as disorganized as it might seem. There is a certain
method to their madness. A little bit late for the transport. The train sets off on its journey, only half an hour behind schedule. An achievement. It takes, on average, 10
hours on the local train to cross the 310 kilometers
to the little town of Guelile. In these carriages, it's an every man for themselves attitude. The more agile passengers tend to stay outside of the carriages, and the most daring of
them play a dangerous game. The daredevils play with
their lives, an absurd game, but that is their choice. The passengers themselves
are not demanding. The train has no form of security. The carriages do not even
have an emergency stop lever. So one has to keep one's wits about one. A return ticket costs 6 Euros, but some people are
entitled to travel for free. Like this 15 year-old teenager, Abeda. Abeda misses school twice
a week to ride the train. But she is not just a regular traveler. Abeda is a kath seller. Almost all Ethiopians chew on these little, bitter-tasting leaves. Kath is a drug that helps
people to stay awake. The plant is prohibited in France. Competition is tough for Abeda today. There are many Kath
sellers in the carriage. At each stop, the traders
spring into action. The smell of fritters
and spices fills the air. Disputes are inevitable, apparently these people don't
quite agree about prices. Abeda waits in the
window for her customers. She doesn't want to give
up her all-precious seat. The money pays for her education, and whenever there is some leftover, the teenager gives it to her parents. The local train is a lifeline, sustaining thousands of families who live alongside its tracks. With the heat of the midday sun, the iron carriage becomes
a red hot prison cell. Inside, the passengers slowly
bake. It's almost 40 degrees. Even with its windows and doors, the air flow is not sufficient to lower the temperature
inside the carriages. A torturous heat, but a preferable one when compared to traveling in
the original wooden carriages from 1917. The windows are high up,
the air doesn't circulate. And there is more trouble to
come for the 300 passengers. (suspenseful music) The train moves at 30
kilometers per hour, on average. (train tires screeching) The old, 1980s Alstom
engine does what she can, but the 3 million kilometres of mileage are beginning to catch up with her. (train engine revving) Victor is sure that the
motor sounds unhealthy. (indistinct chatters) Even for a diesel engine,
this smoke is not normal. (indistinct chatters) (water flowing sound) - The temperature is high. (speaking in foreign) - Something wrong here. (indistinct) which gives the (indistinct) of the machine 50%. When it is cooling down (indistinct) - (indistinct) is not good. (train parts banging) (indistinct) (indistinct chatters) (suspenseful music) - [Narrator] The passengers
know all too well that repairing the train could take days. Some decide to continue on foot. (suspenseful music) If the train sets off again,
it will catch them up. (suspenseful music) As for Victor, he gets
back to the mechanics. The passengers turn to prayer,
but each to his own God. For some, Allah and for others, reggae. (Reggae music playing) (indistinct chatters) (Reggae music playing) (speaking in foreign) (singing in foreign) (Reggae music) (speaking in foreign) (dramatic music) It's impossible to alert the train manager back at the station, mobile
phones don't work in the desert. (dramatic music) Maybe he will send the rescue services once he realizes that the
train has not returned. (dramatic music) Ethiopia seems like one immense desert. It's no coincidence that the country is known as the roof of Africa. (rickets chirping) (eagle squeeing) High lands covered with forest rise up in the center of the country. Up here rainfall is abundant
and water is not a problem. However, elsewhere in the country, it's another matter altogether. 22% of the population do not
have access to drinking water. (indistinct chatters) Natanael is a carrier
of this precious liquid. (speaking in foreign) Every day, he travels
to and from this spring, filling up these containers
to sell them in his village. (speaking in foreign) (footsteps sound) (truck throttles) (speaking in foreign) By some miracle his trolley
withstands the weight, even more so as Natanael
makes this journey 10 times each day. In total, he transports
almost a ton of water. (speaking in foreign) (bus hooting) (speaking in foreign) The 5 kilometer downhill
stretch is busy with trucks. (cheerful music) Children have started
making their own versions of Natanael's trolley, and their sliding technique
would make you shiver. (cheerful music) (trolley tires sound) (speaking in foreign) At 60 years old, each container is beginning
to weigh double for Natanael. But he has no other choice if he wants to be able to eat every day. (calm music) Further South lies the Kaffa region, and perched at 1714 metres altitude, the large town of Bonga. (calm music) (truck throttling) This morning, Salomon the truck driver has not quite woken up yet. We can't say that he is
the best judge of distance. (truck engine revving) (truck bumps truck) - [All] Hey, hey, hey. (speaking in foreign) - [Narrator] Only a few crates of beer, freight is not at the core of his job. In this part of the country, public transport is almost non existent. So heavy trucks such as
Salomon's are much coveted, even if ticket prices are extortionate. (indistinct chatters) 2.50 Euros per trip, a fortune for these farmers
who earn just 1 Euro per day. (speaking in foreign) They will travel 60
kilometers in almost 10 hours, a seemingly endless journey. Some passengers will stand throughout, whilst others precariously balance. (truck throttling) The luckiest passengers are
seated on the truck floor, preferable because at the
slight push of the brakes, the standing passengers
fly all over the cabin. But, according to Salamon,
there is nothing to fear, he has a second-to-none driving technique to avoid these kind of incidents. (truck throttling) (truck hooting) (speaking in foreign) (truck throttling) 10 km on, this side is not looking good. (truck throttling) (speaking in foreign) (truck engine revving) Some of the passengers push, whilst others must continue on foot. (truck engine revving) (speaking in foreign) (truck throttling) (dramatic music) Out of 36000 kilometers
of roads in Ethiopia, only 6000 kilometer are tarmacked. (calm music) (speaking in foreign) (suspenseful drum music) The hours go by and Salomon
is beginning to get tired. (dramatic music) He chews on some kath. The plant stops him from sleeping, but it has another side
effect, hindering his reflexes. And in this mud, the consequences of this
could quickly turn dramatic. (truck throttling) (speaking in foreign) (truck throttling) (speaking in foreign) (calm music) (truck hooting) Here, they have reached their destination. According to Salomon, 10 hours of travelling without an issue is relatively rare in Ethiopia. (truck engine revving) (laughing) (indistinct chatters) Whilst the roads are difficult
and extremely dangerous, they carry 90% of the goods
shipped within the country and for good reason. (dramatic music) The Ethiopian railway network
is in absolute shambles, and not a day passes
without a technical problem. (suspenseful music) The train between Dire Dawa and Guelile is still broken down in
the middle of the desert. (suspenseful music) The 300 passengers have been
waiting under the blazing sun for four hours now. (suspenseful music) (speaking in foreign) But something is about
to come to their aid. Victor the driver and his two assistants. (speaking in foreign) They try to make repairs
with the available equipment. They have worked for 4
hours with their tools. The passengers who got
off the train to walk are their main hope. Have they been able to sound
the alarm at the train station and will they send a new train? (speaking in foreign) But still, there is no-one to be seen. The tracks stay silent. (device tires sound) (calm music) This funny device is used
for track inspections. But this is not what will
come to the train's rescue, it is far too light to be
able to tow a multi-ton train. (device tires sound) (calm drum music) The only hope is the
Dire Dawa train station. Yet the place seems abandoned. (calm drum music) (goat bleating) (somber music) The station is a relic from France's presence in the country. Virtually nothing has changed since its construction in 1917. (somber music) (hammering sound) These men do what they can to
keep the old machinery alive. (indistinct chatters) Here is the emergency rescue train, she is in no better state than the one stuck out in the desert. (indistinct chatters) (speaking in foreign) All of these spare parts were
taken from written-off trains. The mechanics must be
extremely resourceful, because there are no new
parts being produced. Here, nothing is thrown away. (hammering sound) (speaking in foreign) (indistinct chatters) This replacement is definitely not ready to come to the rescue of the
train stuck in the desert. (cheerful music) To get moving again, Victor the driver will
demonstrate some ingenuity. - This (indistinct) is
covering the (indistinct) this is fall down. (indistinct) rings. There is no spare part around here. So we try to repair, just to (indistinct) - [Narrator] Be that as it may, there is something in this desert, wood. (upbeat drums music) - We just for trying (indistinct) - [Narrator] With this piece of wood, Victor hopes to keep the
train's turbo in place. (speaking in foreign) (train engine starting) And a miracle occurs. (suspenseful music) (train hooting) (dramatic music) But this lucky, makeshift
repair may not last very long. For now, it seems to be one
problem after the other. Victor is worried about
the state of the tracks. (dramatic music) (speaking in foreign) (train tires screeching) - (indistinct) there is
a problem. (indistinct) - [Narrator] Victor sends
Unvigi ahead of the train, who keeps an eye out for
any bent or detached tracks. (dramatic music) Victor slows the train down, from 30 to 20 kilometer an hour, and things are going better. (dramatic music) These fallen-over carriages show the negligence of previous drivers. (train hooting) - There is no any alternative, they have no money to
change this. (indistinct) that's very dangerous. (suspenseful music) - [Narrator] The journey still holds many a surprise for them. (suspenseful music) The construction of this
railway line in 1907 marks the start of the
French co-operation. (suspenseful music) The French language entered
Ethiopian schools in 1960. (suspenseful music) During this period, France also helped the country to draw up its own civil code. These are not the only hand
prints they left on the country. One of them lives on in the city of Arar. (car engine starting) The Peugeot 404 isn't so
terrible in terms of pollution. The car dates back to the
60s,70s, but it is very robust. (speaking in foreign) (all laugh) (playful music) There are now hundreds of them driving around the streets
of the city of Arar. The majority of these old
cars are used as taxis. The car bodies creak and
the brakes are worn out, but the solid car still runs well. (playful music) (car engine revving) (speaking in foreign) (car engine revving) (speaking in foreign) Salomon charges just 10
centimes per journey. If he asked for more, very few
people would be able to pay. Taxis remain the most
popular mode of transport. (indistinct chatters) (speaking in foreign) (playful music) According to Salomon, his taxi is the best
dating agency in town. (indistinct chatters) (speaking in foreign) (car throttling) (speaking in foreign) (cars throttling) The secret of the 404's rejuvenation lies here in a remote section of the town. (car engine revving) (suspenseful music) (speaking in foreign) (car engine revving) (speaking in foreign) In the same way as the train, spare parts are ever more rare. In a few years time, 404s will have disappeared
from the streets of Arar. (indistinct chatters) (cheerfu drum music) There was a time when it wasn't safe to hang around the streets
of the city at night. (cheerful music) The danger didn't come
from suspicious people, but something much worse. To this day, in the town's outskirts, the night is filled with fear. Danger is always lying low in the dark. (suspenseful music) Only Moulougueta and his children can control this force that
so terrifies the locals. (suspenseful music) (indistinct chatters) (speaking in foreign) They are the only ones to be accepted by the creatures of the night. Hyenas. (speaking in foreign) (hyena growling) (speaking in foreign) (hyenas growling) (speaking in foreign) (hyenas growling) Since the 19th century, a pact has existed between the hyenas and the residents of Arar. The residents allow the scavengers to invade the city at night to feast on their waste and litter, so that they stop attacking their flocks. Today, the hyenas no longer
serve as garbage men, but the city continues to feed them. (speaking in foreign) Just like his father, Malougueta has brought
them food every night for the past 26 years. There is complete trust. (speaking in foreign) There are now about 30
hyenas surrounding them. (speaking in foreign) Malougeta sometimes makes a little money selling these babies on to zoos. (speaking in foreign) (calm music) The engine repair with a piece of wood seems to be holding up, but for how long? The train gently pushes on
at 20 kilometers per hour, and there is 20 kilometers
left of the journey. This means one more hour to
go in the suffocating heat. (suspenseful music) The passengers protect themselves from the sun's rays as much as they can. (suspenseful music) (speaking in foreign) (suspenseful music) Abdeda, the young vendor,
has sold all of her kath. But she is worried about her vegetables. (indistinct chatters) (speaking in foreign) And the girl's problems do not end there. (indistinct chatters) The motor suddenly shows
a great sign of fatigue, shuddering and stopping as
if struck down by the heat. (train engine revving) (dramatic music) Seeing the extent of the damage, this time the mechanics do
not even take out their tools. (dramatic music) (speaking in foreign) But the passengers do set off. A group of 300 travelers, decide to finish their journey on foot. (indistinct chatters) (speaking in foreign) Victor the driver suffers
the ship captain's fate. - I'm responsible for all of the people, the materials, the machines. So just I'm stay here until
they bring another machine. - [Narrator] How long? For how many days? Victor doesn't know,
there is no waiting limit. (dramatic music) To get to their destination,
the town of Guelile, the train castaways have
another 20 kilometers to walk. One thing is for sure, certain merchandise will
not arrive very fresh. (dramatic music) Unless they use the camels that are taunting them along the way. They would be very useful indeed. (dramatic music) (speaking in foreign) (camel grunting) Certain passengers have
a special technique to capture these beasts,
but after some reflection, they let them go. Here, they don't joke around with the region's camel thieves. (calm music) Some passengers will
take more than 10 hours to reach their destination. (somber music) (goats bleating) Others, exhausted, wait for the emergency train
on the side of the tracks. (somber music) It didn't arrive until the next morning. (somber music) 500 kilometers away, the salt slaves are also
preparing to get on the road. (speaking in foreign) (somber music) Their journey is trying, but contrary to the train passengers, they will not have anything
to carry on their backs. (somber music) (speaking in foreign) From this furnace, a legend is born. The legend that the sun
makes its way across the sky thanks to a chariot
drawn by horses of fire. One of these horses, Itiop,
gave his name to Ethiopia. (calm music) Who knows? There could
be truth in this legend, with the immense heat that
radiates over the country. (suspenseful music)
