WORLDS BEST CHAINSAW TUTORIAL! EVERYTHING You Need to Know About Owning and Operating a Chainsaw!

hey everybody I wanted to come here and make a video about how to use a chainsaw by the end of this video you are not going to be a total tree cutting wizard but you are going to have the basic knowledge about you know what it takes to own and operate a chainsaw without cutting your head [Music] off we're starting with this saw right here this isn't the kind of saw I'd normally run um for you know applications of working on the ground usually I person would run a larger saw 70 CC's and up this is a husqavarna 355 Rancher I kind of want this video to be an introduction to running a chainsaw you know if you're a guy that you just bought your first saw and you're kind of wondering how to own it how to operate it hopefully you'll find this video helpful so I wanted to get basically what I would call a homeowner saw typically in my videos you'll see me running larger saws when I'm working on the ground usually 70 CC's and up this is a 55 CC saw this this is a great saw they're really they've been around for a long time it'll get the job done I wanted it to be sort of realistic for the uh average homeowner so I'm not using my big ported saws we're going to go out we're going to cut down a tree with this 455 Rancher they actually sell this on Amazon for $530 I believe with a 20-in bar and chain which is what I will be putting on this in a little bit so we're going to go through the parts of it you know what the terminology means we're going to cut down a tree and cut it up we're going to I'm I'm just going to kind of go through everything so so that you feel like you're equipped at the end of this video you you understand your saw so I think it'll be a lot of fun I will be I'm going to be giving the saw I have this online store called sappy supplies and for the next year I every month I'm doing a chainsaw giveaway so you can go to sappy supplies.com uh for a chance to win the saw or if you're watching this in a few months it'll be a different chainsaw but I'm doing chainsaw giveaways if you like the saw you can also just buy it on Amazon I'll put a link to the saw in the description so we've got the saw and now the next thing we need to do is get this thing gas and [Music] oil all right so what kind of gas should you use for your saw you know all of the really smart saw guys that I talked to they really preach about ethanol free gas so this is a gas station by my house uh I just Googled ethanol free gas stations in Washington state and this one is just down the road for me so this is where I get my gas these ethanol free I don't know if the octane really matters that much some people say it does some say it doesn't but I think the biggest thing is that the ethanol is it's the way I understand it it's like a it's made from corn or something like that they put it in the gas to make it stretch farther but the problem is especially if the sauce sits for a long time that fuel can separate the gas from the ethanol and it kind of degrades all the you know all the rubber hoses and the plastic and everything so it's just best to use ethanol free gas is is what I'm told and I do it my saws run really well for a really long time so I I like these I like these pre-measured mixers I see some people they're over there like a chemist trying to like you know guess the ratio and stuff I run 50 to one I do full synthetic this is still I I also will run like VP I think kusara makes one too they come in regular or synthetic I just use synthetic cuz they say it's better I don't really know the difference it makes but I definitely like not having to measure the stuff myself because I just think it works better that way I've done a lot of traveling this I I don't I don't know when I opened this or why I did but for some reason I I opened this I think I used it to uh for my foam air I don't I don't know why but I open this part but basically I got to get gas here and then I'll go I'll got go home and put another mixer in it oh what the heck it usually goes smoother than this yeah okay I had to go home cuz I I'd already used some of that mixer so this is the same stuff I mean this is VP this is actually what I've been using um this is what I use I got like a big case of it I actually think this has been discontinued cuz I can't find the 5 gallon mixers anymore so this is actually what I usually run but um you know they sell different synthetics mixers I was going to do 2 and a half gallons cuz I just I just mixed some gas but I'll just do five gallons again so usually I pour it in before before I fill it up with gas cuz then the I feel like the pump kind of mixes it but this is just so you know for for a guy like me this is perfect cuz it's super like idiot proof you know I don't have to measure nothing I know that it says mix with five gallons so I just put it in there and then all you got to do is Shake It Up which it's usually good to do that at the gas station cuz then it kind of gets shaken up when you're driving but now I got to manually do it life's [Laughter] hard okay all right so these these husky caps they have a slot right there you can stick a bar inch in there if you want to help open it I really recommend you try to do that just as the last resort cuz you will tear that out and gum it up I I try to just do these by hand I don't really like to stick with bar inch in there so we're just going to fill this baby up and I always try to fill up on gravel or dirt or something don't you know don't do it on somebody's nice other driveway or something you know or like right above their plants try to do it on dirt or gravel or something so okay gas is done Bar Oil so it's very important first of all what kind of bar oil this is just from still I I really don't think it matters that much what kind of bar oil you use I know people have opinions on it but all all this does is it lubricates the chain a lot of people think that you put the oil in and it helps the engine run but the way the two cycle engine works is the oil is actually mixed into the fuel so we already put the oil in with when we when we uh put this bad boy into the gas so this is actually the the oil that the engine uses the the bar oil is just to lubricate the chain that's all it that's all it does so just get whatever bar oil you can get your hands on depending on the time of year if it's really cold sometimes the bar oil will be very thick and it won't want to work that good if that's the case I'll just squirt a little bit of gas in there and mix it up and that will thin that'll thin out the bar oil um I don't know if that's dangerous or not that's flammable but I haven't had any problems with it so this is just regular I don't know steel bar oil and it's important you get about two tanks of bar oil for every one tank of gas that you run but it's just important just a good rule of thumb if it needs gas it needs Bar Oil just top it off um you're just going to if if you run out of Bar Oil you're going to really overheat your guide bar and your chain you're going to have all kinds of problems just do gas and oil always together always at the same time I will probably spill a bunch of this cuz I always do I try so hard not to that was 100% effort right there that spilled very little so my advice use a pre-measured deal use ethanol free gas any bar oy will really do the trick always fill both up at the same time and uh don't try to don't try to be a chemist and just eyeball it I I've traveled and work with a lot of different tree companies and uh I'll just tell you right now the saws a lot of places I've worked they just they don't run very well because the gas just isn't mix very well so now it's full now we need to put the bar and chain [Music] on okay so we are going to mount this this is a 20 in guide bar that we're going to mount to the saw but before I do that I want to just talk about some of these numbers real quick so you can know what you're looking at with these with cuz there's actually some good information that you might want to know on the bar first get a saw you know and especially if you got a saw and you don't know what size chain or bar or what you got there's usually a marking on the bar right here that you can look at so this is going to tell you what you need to know so it's a husk of Arna Mount Husky and still don't take the same Mount you know that it's 20 in long it's 38 that's the um and it's so it's 38 and it's 72 Drive links right there and you know that's basically the the size of the Cutters and how many Drive links each one of these is a Drive links and this is a 3/8 cutting tooth right here it's a 50 gauge guide bar so that's just a measurement of the thickness of the chain and the bar and I think I already said 72 Drive Link so good information on the bar right there if you're having issues mounting your bar chain make sure you try to look at this area on the the Lower Side of the guide bar right there to make sure that they actually match [Music] up all right so how do we put this bar and chain on it's not you know it's not rocket science but there is a little bit to it so first thing we got to do is we got to take the cover off right here so usually husky will have smaller nuts and still will have bigger nuts this is my friend Gordy's threo dogs he makes you can buy those at West coast.com so okay we're going to take the cover off and here we've got I believe it's called the outboard clutch that's where the clutch protrudes out of the body of the saw like that uh for compar they're not all like that so for comparison here's my core 62 see I just pop these off they're a little bit bigger nuts so this the clutch style is different so the clutch is actually inside the body of the saw so you can see the sprocket a little more easily so it's going to be important that you get the chain the drive Lings of the chain inside the sprocket so got our saw here now we're going to mount it we're going to put the we're going to put the chain on First and you can kind of feel when you do this how it's it's actually in the sprocket it's not roll sometimes you you think the Chain's on but it's on a different part but it's actually in the a good tip is every other time you install the bar flip it it'll wear more evenly that way so we're going to put this on going to get the chain inside the bar okay so now the the chain is in the guide bar we need to tighten up the chain so we need to talk about the tensioner right here what the tensioner does is it pushes the bar into the chain and that's how you get the tension of your chain and some saws it's on the cover itself some saws like my 462 here if you see right there the tensioner is actually on the body of the saw and the clutch cover just has a hole through it so you can get to it but either way you got to find the the the tensioner and we're going to put this on here I can feel that the the tensioner is not lined up with that hole in my guide bar yet I'm just going to put these the the barnuts on they're just kind of loose they're just to hold the cover on if you tighten the the barnuts down all the way then the bar won't be able to slide as you adjust your chainsaw chain so I'm just going to back this up until I feel it kind of click in there okay see I can feel I've got it now so now I'll just make these just snug enough so that it's holding the bar in place but the bar can still slide underneath the cover and now you'll see as I tighten this the slack will come out of the chain there you go they say when you lightly lift up you want to see the bottom of three Drive links it's kind of a a rough estimate so okay so it's so it's on there now we've got a pretty good amount of tension on there and if you want you can actually you can do this a few ways you can lift it up you can turn it upside down or you can also just hold the saw like that and it pushes the guide bar up a little bit which will help prevent you cutting you know the further up this sits the harder it is to cut the dirt on the other side so sometimes I'll I'll just do a little just something like that and just tighten the barnuts down and don't do that until you get the proper tension because like I said that the bar the bar cannot slide if you tighten these down before you mess with your tension and now I'll know that this is on correctly if I can actually Slide the chain yeah see grabbing the back of the tooth with my bar I know I'm in the sprocket if I was not in the sprocket especially happens with these style chainsaws sometimes you think you're in the sprocket but you've actually got the chain resting right here and you can't figure out why the chain won't spin it's cuz it's not actually in the sprocket yeah and don't be surprised when you run this if it loosens up a little bit the chain will probably stretch a little bit you can just stop loosen up the bar nuts tension it with the saw off of course and uh you know get that slack out and now that we've got our bar and chain installed now let's talk a little bit about the individual parts of the [Music] Chainsaw so we'll talk about some of the safety Parts about the chain saw so the first thing to know about is this thing right here this is called your chain breake and this is super important this what this does is as the chain is spinning in the saw there's a spring that kind of floats over the clutch and when you engage that it clamps down on the clutch it's not meant to be used to slow down the chain and you don't want to you know and just slam on it you if you can you want to let the saw stop on its own and then Engage The Chain breake so if you have to take a step or something you know put it on it's very easy to engage and also if the saw kicks back which we'll talk about a little bit later it's very easy to engage a chain breake so having a functional chain breake really important as far as safety goes all right now the failing dogs you hear people talk about dogs this is what they're talking about these are aftermarket I actually bought this saw from Gordy he used this saw to design these uh these three-point dogs for this model of Chainsaw so the these are aftermarket this didn't come on the saw but the ones that came on the saw look similar except there's a fourth and these These are kind of aggressive they're nice for the Pacific Northwest because we have very thick barked trees so but what these dogs do is they allow you to grab with leverage you know to to cut to to cut more efficiently it makes your life way easier because they call it doging in you can stick them into wood and then you can pivot the saw on the dogs rather than trying to just muscle everything so if the saw is operating correctly if you're chain sharp and and if you use your dogs the chainsaw should do all the work itself it's a auto feeding tool you know you don't need to really you know you shouldn't be straining or anything and so relying on these dogs you know you'll see it becomes very important if you want to not burn yourself out on them you do got to be careful you don't stab yourself in the leg when you start this thing next thing we'll talk about is the faing sights the felling sights are usually going to be a line right here on this side of the saw some saws will have a full wrap handle most my saws do it's very common for the larger saws especially on the west coast to have another handle here um but this one doesn't this is a half wrap handle and this line right here actually indicates where the tree is going to fall which we'll talk about a little bit more in a minute and there'll be another one on this side right here this line right here these are your failling sights and these they're your best friends they're incredibly reliable and those are important when you go to you know fall a tree even even up here there's a line right here so even when you're doing your if you're doing an angled cut you can use that as well but where that line faces that's where the tree is going to fall most of the [Music] time all right so starting the chainsaw this Saw's actually got instructions on it but B basically most saws they're going to have you know they'll have a primer bubble and they'll have an off andon switch and then they'll have a choke right here and so if it does have a bubble or and a lot of them have a decom button right here so this makes it easier to start if you push that in first thing if you've got the primer bubble push that I don't know 10 20 times I guess still it fills up with fuel okay make sure that you are I've actually never ran one of these saws before but make sure you're not on you're not on stop and you're going to pull out the choke and you're going to start it you're going to hear it burp it's called it'll almost start and then you're going to push it in and then it it it should start okay so when it comes to starting it there are kind of three General ways that people do it you can either start it on the ground like this with your foot through the handle and the advantage to that is you're kind of far away from the the chainsaw chain if the saw is really heavy this will probably be the the easiest way to do it this is probably the easiest and safest way to do it with your foot in the handle like this another way that people start them often is they'll put it right they'll put it right in their crotch like this and they'll start it like that and uh the idea is that this is a little safer than the way I'm about to show you which is how I do it so you can also crotch start it but the way I start the chainsaw and this is not I don't recommend that you start the saw this way but the way I do it is something called drop starting where you actually use the weight of the saw and you push down as you pull up the advantage to drop starting the saw is you use the weight of the saw you use that inertia to help you turn the engine over usually when you see professionals you know in the real world you know production Tree Guys Timber fallers they almost always drop start the S just because it's so much easier on the body to do it that way you just got not very good leverage starting it like this or bent over like this that changes with long bars with a Long Bar you probably want on the ground but with these short bars the easiest way is to drop start them but it's very dangerous for a couple reasons number one when you start it you can jam the dogs into your leg or the chainsaw chain into your leg especially if the brakes off because when this thing fires up change is going to go spinning so drop starting it is the easiest I would say starting like this is probably the safest and uh this is the this is the goofiest way I just don't know why people start it this way I think it's so weird it's so uncomfortable I'm reaching across the shoulder but you know if you look up a video about how to start a chainsaw or you look in the user manuals this is usually the recommended way I just personally think it's kind of silly I'll start at the safe way for the video though so chain breake on really important I'm going to stick my foot through the handle I've I've primed it the choke is on so I'm going to pull the saw I should hear it burp and now in theory that it's burped I push the the choke back in and this thing should just fire up and I don't know what the deal sometimes it's like a when it starts it'll usually be at a high idle like that you just give it one brop on the throttle with the chain bre on and it should idle quite nicely I mean it's just I I know this isn't how they recommend it it's just so much easier start it that way but that's the gist of starting it make sure your fuel's right choke it make go until it burps turn the choke off and then it should fire up if you hear idling high squeeze the throttle and it should just run good like [Music] this so now the next thing I'll talk about is warming up and breaking in the chainsaw there are a million different theories everybody I've ever worked with has a different opinion on how you should break in a chainsaw some say start it fire it up just go balls to the wall some say let it run whole tank of gas through it I've tried every way imaginable and I've really not noticed any difference for the most part when it comes to running these saws I think it's just best to just start the saw let it idle for a minute that you know I'm not super engine Savvy but the way gord's explained it to me is you know there there are different Metals in the Piston cylinder all that parts and by heating them up really fast they don't heat up at the same rate and it's just good to let the engine warm up so everything consistently reaches a high temperature together if that makes sense probably doesn't make any sense but just let the saw warm up you don't need to start it and go straight to it if you have to do that there's there might be something wrong with your saw or your carburetor so and I I really don't do any Breakin method I just let it idle for about a minute like I normally would and then I just go about uh working and I've had a lot of saws and i' I've tried breaking them in every way imaginable so this you know and once again I'm going to I'm going to drop start it again just because that is the way that I do it especially with these short bars but it's not I'll do the textbook way here I guess it's not so [Music] bad all right so the saw is it's warm it's it's broken in for the most part I [Music] think so we just talked about starting the saw and I kind of showed you an ideal situation it fired right up but sometimes you'll see you know you you you might be in that situation where you're just pulling and pulling and pulling and pulling and it's just not happening and what happens a lot of the times is if you you remember that initial burp that I I first got if I would have kept pulling the saw I'll do it right now I'll just FL it for you so choke on chain breake on okay so it burped everything's going good but what happens if I uh didn't hear that or something and I I just keep pulling okay so I've been pulling and it's just not starting what happens is so much gas is going through at a certain point where you actually flood the saw um I I don't really know what that means but I know how to fix it and there are really only two ways if your saw is flooded one is just put the saw down and come back in like a half hour or something to let the gas that's in there dry out and then sort of start again but if you if you flood the saw and you need to get it going the only other way that I know how to start it is and this is not textbook or anything but if you need to start the saw and it's flooded you have to hold the trigger down I don't know why it works but it works and if you hold the trigger down when you start the saw it will fire up when it's flooded it might not be that easy but very important that the chain brake is on because as soon as this saw fires up the Chain's going to be spinning um like like crazy cuz you're you're Full Throttle you're going straight to Full Throttle so Chain break is on try to find yourself a nice piece of wood um and you're just going to hold the once again guys this is not like textbook I'm not telling you this is how you start it but if you're in that predicament you just can't get your saw started it might be that it's flooded so you just hold the trigger down and that'll do the trick you saw that smoke coming out that's a sign that that it that it was flooded I mean that's the gist of starting the [Music] saw and I feel pretty good I'm going to chop down a tree but before I do that I want to talk about chainsaw chaps chaps are amazing at what they do they're designed to stop the chainsaw from spinning and it's absolutely incredible how well they work I've gotten myself once in the chaps before um and I'm glad that I was wearing them it was actually pretty recently [Music] too look that's the first time I've done that yeah look at that you know I didn't feel a thing I just felt my pants tug and I looked down and I cut my pants so well that's how chainsaw traps work so I'm going to cut a pair of chaps and show you what they're made of these the this was my first pair of Chainsaw trousers I ever owned this is I don't know um I mean this is going back probably 8 years or something these are fanner Gladiator pants and you can actually see the chainsaw chat material in here I've cut these once for a video already in the past but I'm going to do it again you'll see this material is designed to it clogs up the sprocket of the saw here I'll show you I I I really didn't um I really didn't care for these pants that much they're so hot and the material is like really bulky on the inside so what I wear I wear these CL these are uh Defender pros from cloggers and uh even got my name on them and I think cloggers makes the best chainsaw pants I sell them on my site sappy supplies.com I also sell some organ uh like strap-on chaps that are a lot cheaper than the cloggers I I wear the zeros when it's hot outside we're in the fall now I wear the defender Pros in the winter when it's really cold I'll wear the The Embers that they're called cloggers makes fantastic products let me show you how these work [Music] I mean look at it is all jammed look at that all right so let's take a look see what we got going on here this is a really nice bar WR inch I sell this on my site sappy supplies.com it's nice cuz it's husky on one side still on the other side and it's short enough to fit under the the four wrap handle bars that I like to use so which the saw doesn't have so let's just take this clutch cover off here take the chain bre off to get this clutch cover off so look at that it's just barely look it's just it's either Kevlar or Dana I'm not sure it's just it it really blows my mind how well it works it just clogs up the sprocket right there so the sprocket can't turn it's not like this stuff is so tough the chain can't cut through this won't even dull the chain it just it just clogs up the sprocket and uh and look at that I just took a little bit out and now look at we're all good to go I just get back about my business so it's just truly you know I've done this a bunch of times and every time I'm just amazed at how how great they work I mean look I had them wrapped around this log right here there's no it didn't even cut through it didn't even hit these vines or anything it just doesn't stand a a chance the the the chaps work so incredibly well Square Ground Round ground big saw little saw it a good pair of chaps will stop it all so just like that the chaps if that would have been my leg it stops IT dead and it tracks take that little bit of fluff out of the sprocket no damage to the saw no damage to the chain you're good to go I just I really recommend wearing these pants I mean they've gotten so good over the last few years they're expensive but even just the ones that you buckle on I just I recommend the chops [Music] highly okay so felling a tree this is not a comprehensive tree fing tutorial I did a video on my old channel uh I did a much more in-depth tree fing tutorial you know you you could spend your whole life trying to Perfect The Craft of tree fing there are so many variables so many situations you can be in so this is not a comprehensive tree filling tutorial I'm just going to give you the total basic meat and potatoes of dropping a tree right here I've got a Douglas fur that has just started to die and I'm actually at my neighbor's house and we're just going to fall it it's kind of kind of an easy tree it does it does lean back a little bit towards the power lines I guess but you know I'm going to use some wedges I'm going to fall it and this will just be a real brief guide on you know the fundamentals of felling a tree so the first step is I need to do a notch or a face cut some people call it it's it's the first cut it's a directional cut and this will dictate where the tree lays down you know you can do a a conventional cut a humbt an open face at the end of the day what really is most important is you just got to get a chunk of the tree out out of the front of it because that's going to allow the tree to close if you don't do a cut on the front too much tension builds up when you're trying to do the back cut and the tree just explodes it barber chairs the tension the compression will split apart so you got to get a chunk of tree out of the middle so I'm going to cut in I'm going to be looking at my felling SES right here some people do this cut first I do this cut it's just like a cultural regional thing I do this cut first and uh nothing to it I'm looking down my sights here I've got you know I've got a sight on the back and a sight on the front and I'm lining those up just like a actual Gun Site you line up the back and the front and that's going to give the direction which is right at right at Lucas uh but this this is where we're going to be shooting it so that that's the faing sights now when you do your top cut and you want to line it up there's actually a little you if you get down you can actually see inside the curve here and this will help you line up so you a you shoot for that corner just look down and take a peek in here it'll help you line it up I I usually cut Humbolt I'm going to cut conventional cuz it's a little easier to cut I think for most [Music] people [Applause] [Laughter] [Applause] [Music] [Music] oh so right right here I've got just a tiny bit of a that's called a Dutchman right there and that will actually close first and cause all kinds of problems I I just I want to clean that Dutchman up I got a little extra wood right here too so just a little bit of clean up and we're almost done with our face [Music] cut [Music] Okay so we've got our Notch right here the the more open the better almost always just because if the tree if you go really shallow and the tree starts to close you just have to hope and pray you've got enough momentum going the right way and this tree leans backwards so by the time this tree stands up this will already have closed pretty significantly so I want pretty open and that that's that's pretty open um and like I said you can do a humble conventional a lot of times when I've got a really small tree I'll do a really I mean honestly the steeper the better it just opens it up all the more this is a pretty standard regular Notch for a regular tree so now we're going to and I'm about a third of the way in maybe a little bit less I need room for my wedges sometimes you want to go deeper than a third sometimes you want to go more A good rule of thumb though is a third of the tree that's what the textbooks say and that's what I agree with for the most part a third of the way in um and then you just need I I will need to wedge this tree over so face Cut's done now let's do the back cut and it's okay to double check your sights I got my saw right in the face cut here let's look at my sights again we're lined up right there which I'm shooting between these two seeders right here the the house is far enough away hopefully um so the house is definitely far enough away but just double checking my sights here okay so I'm in my back cut now I'm level you want your back cut to be pretty much level maybe a little higher than your Notch I got to be very careful because this tree leans backwards and I've got to get a wedge k&h wedges k&h wedges is available at sappy supplies.com this is a 5 1/2 in wedge I'm going to start with this cuz it's the smallest I'm going to be able to get it in pretty quickly I'm going to be a little bit stressed until I get this wedge in cuz of the power lines back there but we're just going to keep keep at [Applause] it another thing I'll do is I'll uh try to focus on this side first Anton taught me this he said focus on your Far Side first to get that one cut up and then go back cuz this is a bigger than my bar I want to kind of get this side cut up first cuz it's you know when I'm working over there it's easy for me to see that side but not this side so I'm about there 10% I might need to go a little more for pretty tough but that's about where we're at I'm going to hopefully be able to stick my wedge in here pretty [Applause] soon let's go saw ax handles available at sappy supplies I guess I can I guess I can turn this off again so I got my wedge I still got a lot of holding wood this thing leans back now I'm just going to use the wedge to I'm really just trying to hold the tree in place I don't want to go so far that I hit my bar you know so I can still jiggle my bar so that's good so I'll cut a little more tap a little more cut a little more tap a little more you know I can get behind the saw like this and I can still use my sights so I'm still looking down the sight by just cutting straight if you rock the saw back a bunch you'll end up with some weird funky wood in the middle of the tree but if you get your sights lined up and just go straight in you'll know that you're [Music] true sorry I keep shreding off you probably like get that tree over already but it's just these things are important you'll notice I'll hit the wedge you know and I'll look up there's a lot of Deadwood up there and the vibrations from the wedge can really knock stuff loose so I know you just want this tree to go over already but there's this is dangerous stuff it it really is so there's a lot to it [Music] and by pulling the bar out like this I it you so when you're dogged in remember the bar is at an angle like this so you think that your bar is running this way but when you pull it out you'll see see the bar is actually running that way so pull it out a little bit that'll help tell you where the holding wood is on the inside I got a little more wood over here but cut a little more over [Music] [Music] there okay so I'm cut up I don't have a lot of wood left if I sever this holding wood this tree just Falls wherever gravity takes it not a lot of wood left there not a lot of wood left there so I got to wedge it over it leaned back pretty hard so it's got to if I keep cutting it's going to it's going to fail hopefully we got I should have a backup wedge for safety another thing I forgot to talk about is when the tree goes over you know if the trees going that way the safest spot is at 45° angle away from the tree don't turn your back on it look up because branches all kinds of stuff can come flying back at you so it's best to try to go 45° angle make sure you got a clean path you know keep your eyes up don't turn away from the tree cuz I can come back and get you so you can see about a third of the way deep stopped it you want the hinge roughly 10% of the tree I stopped it didn't get greedy I thought you know what I think it's enough and I just wedged it over the rest of the way and um there's a lot more to it than that but in another sense there's really nothing more to it than that honestly so I mean that's the basic gist of filling a tree if you want more in depth check out my old channel uh called it the world's best tree filling tutorial so okay let's cut this thing up [Music] so before we start cutting this thing up I want to talk briefly about a little thing called tension and compression it it's it's a simple enough concept but it is amazing how easy it is I don't care who you are it's so easy to get your bar pinched you know you go to cut the limbs off something and you know you pinch your bar it's all about tension and compression if I could just share a story real quick years ago I was doing a safety meeting at east side and there were like 20 guys in the room and Scott asked he was doing the safety meeting he's like who here still doesn't understand tension and compression and it was kind of funny cuz uh me and Jed were the only people that raised our hands and we had the most experience of anybody in there it's like it almost seems like the the the longer you do it the more you're like what the heck uh but but but this tree is super basic you know but basically you know tension and compression is you know when you're cutting stuff up where wherever the tree is bending basically there's always a tension side and there's always a compression side if you look at my if you look at my uh my stick here you know as I pull this there's a lot of tension on the top of this and if I were to cut this this would just peel apart from the bottom side you have compression and if I tried to cut it there it would pinch because it you know it's trying to close and that's really tension in compression in a nutshell you just have to pay attention to the weight distribution of the piece of wood if you see this tree right here that the tip is still is leaning on the the ground right here so I already know that because the the tree is suspended like this I know that I I know where the tension and compression is the compression is right here if I try just cutting down you know straight into it this tree is going to close on my bar and if I cut up then it'll pop open you still have to be careful even doing that because you don't want to release too much pressure too quickly um but but but that's kind of the gist of it and once I cut it depending on if this piece goes on the ground or if it's suspended you know if this piece is suspended let's say I cut this and this thing stands up you know I'll grab another stick here you know right now this tree is laying on the ground like this let's say I cut the tip off or let's say the butt was suspended and it's like this now the tension and compression is in the opposite side of the tree cuz when I cut here this wants to fall down if I cut here it wants to pinch my bar so tension compression is it's easily enough conceptualized it's harder enough in practice especially when you get tired it's so easy to pinch your bar so I'm going to cut all the limbs off this thing right here and uh very few Limbs and uh then we'll we'll Buck it so any of these limbs that are suspended like this you know if I cut here I'm cutting into the tension side and the compression is collapsing any of the branches that are suspended are going to be like that and any ones that are under tension they're they're going to be the opposite so let's just limb this thing real quick [Music] [Applause] a [Applause] all right so now I'm going to cut it I'm going to cut down so that I uh you know so I avoid all that compression but I'm going to just cut a little bit on the top so that it doesn't uh peel so it kind of breaks more cleanly I I don't hopefully that makes [Music] sense [Applause] so that might have been too slight for you to notice but actually as I was cutting I felt this thing starting to pinch my bar and I pulled out immediately the tension I was totally wrong it looks like it's folded like that but it's probably just barely touching the ground actually and it's suspended over there cuz when I went to cut it it started to felt it just barely perceptible started to close so I pulled my saw out which means I'm actually going to cut up here so just like I said as was like here's where the tension is here's where the compression I was dead wrong about this so it's actually the opposite I'm going to cut the top of it but you know just paying attention to the saw I was able to feel I just felt a little bit of movement and I said oh no I was it's opposite [Music] actually yeah there you go what do you know and now the the tension will be here and the compression will be here see see what happens when I cut the compression first see this piece doesn't weigh nothing cuz it's just a piece of firewood but it's it's definitely like pinching on my saw right here I could probably power through it cuz I got enough power but I mean it's it's it's it's stiff you know cuz that's where all the compression is see it wants to it wants to compress and here's the tension you know it can get really confusing on Hills when things are upright and stuff where's the tension where's the compression but I mean that's really the gist of it it's one of those things it's It's Quickly you can kind of soak it in quickly but it takes a lot of practice to really get the hang of [Music] it so now we're going to talk about pushing versus pulling the chain basically the chain is always going to be spinning clockwise and when you're cutting on this side this is what they call pulling the chain and this is the main this should be your go-to running the saw and this up here it's called pushing the chain you can kind of know because the the saw dust is going this way when you cut with this side when you cut with this side it's shooting that way but it's an important concept to know you know if somebody says you know pushing versus pulling the chain that you know what they're talking about so this is pulling and this is pushing the pro to pulling the chain is well the saw is designed that way it's just everything is easier especially when your saw is sharp um really most of the time you want to be push uh pulling the saw instead of pushing it there are some advantages to pushing the saw though it keeps you know it keeps all the sawdust away from you and it's actually easier let's say you're in a situation where you want to run it you can more quickly Escape when you're pushing and then you stop and you get out of there sometimes it kind of grabs when you're pulling so it's less grabby but it takes more of a physical effort to push to to yeah to push the train so I'll pull one and then I'll push one [Music] and that is in a nutshell pulling versus pushing the [Music] chain okay so this is a very important part of the video hopefully hopefully you're still here uh we're going to talk about Kickback kickback if you are going to cut your head off it's going to be because of the the kickback probably you know kickback is so dangerous running running a chainsaw because it happens so quickly and there's so much force behind it it's just so lethal and it's so important to not only know how to prevent it but know how it occurs and what it looks like so if I could tell you one thing in this video to be mindful of it is the tip of the Chainsaw that's where things get really dangerous is around the tip of the Chainsaw because let's say you're cutting something and you're not paying attention where your tip is you can hit something and this thing will just bounce back violently why don't I show you some Kickback and then we'll talk about it actually that is kickback and you know maybe it didn't look that violent but I'm I'm anticipating it I'm holding tight and the Chamber is actually engaging really good but I'm like anticipating it when you are not expecting that and you're really loose and relaxed this thing I I swear you might not believe it this I promise this can hit you in the face it can go it's so crazy especially the the bigger the saw is the worse the kickback is there's also a thing called chain sequencing depending on how many Cutters like if you look at this chain let's get a little closer into the chain would okay so this chain is called a full comp chain meaning that there's a cutter you know there there are lots of teeth some people myself included I I'll typically run either usually a skip tooth which means this cutter would be missing and basically the more teeth you have the less the saw is going to kick back this is actually a pretty low Kickback chain it's got these goofy rakers too so I'm assuming that helps with Kickback as well what happens the reason the saw kicks back is you see that the tooth right here when you go to stab it into the wood right dead on the nose I mean look that can't go into the wood it just you have so much inertia built up and when this touches the wood boom it just shoots the saw back so it's physically impossible to cut straight in like that because the tooth just can't get in there so it's just so important to be mindful of the tip now sometimes you do need to plunge cut you need to cut straight through and to avoid kick back I'll show you how to do that and all you have to do is you have to start the cut either in either you know in this corner right here or this corner because the tooth has to be able to grab into the wood so you saw it kick back I think this is a low kick back chain I was prepared for it it's full comp another thing is the shorter the bar the more harsh the kickback too cuz the longer bars are heavier so I promise you Kickback can be way worse than what I just demonstrated so but I'll show you how to safely plunge cut so I just got to insert the bar here or here and then I can roll it and once I'm in there and I'm pushing straight forward then I'm cutting the wood with both corners of the bar and then I can actually cut in like that [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] oh and that's how you plunge cut I did another intentional kick back there just to show you you know again in case you forgot but uh but yeah that that that's how you plung cut and that's how you avoid Kickback so important and it's especially so important for climbers we're up in the tree 120 ft up in the air with these little tiny top handles I mean they kick back hard cuz the saws are so light and they've got a lot of power so really important for climbing saws especially just always be mindful of where your tip is [Music] all right next we're going talk about is throwing the chain you don't want to throw the chain that's the idea that the chain is when it comes off throwing the chain is when it comes off the guide bar and it happens for two reasons one your chain is too loose like mine is right now I just loosened it up a little bit cuz I'm I'm going to try to throw it and the other is if you're not cutting true you're not really sticking it in there good you know you're doing weird angles and stuff the chain wants to come out of the bar rails it's it's only in there so deep you know you've got to really be dead on on you know um if you're like getting weird and you're bending it and stuff the chain just wants to fly off so let's see if I can get the chain to fly off I've never done this on purpose I don't know if it's going to work well there you go I didn't have to do much all I had to do was see the reason that happened is cuz the saw was like this if I would have revved it like this it probably would have stayed on for a little while but as soon as you go to do that if the saw is lo if the chain is loose gravity just pulls it right off the guide bar so you know that's just a little topic to cover it's just important to keep good tension if you tighten the it too much you can damage your guide bar but if you don't tighten it up you're going to throw your chain and you could cut yourself you could get hurt so just try to keep your chain tight you know not super tight just snug and try to avoid cutting at weird angles you know like don't cut like this if you can avoid it um unless you're doing a face cut if you're burying the bar you don't need to worry about it but the longer the bar gets and the less you have of it in the tree the more likely it is that the Chain's going to come [Music] out so measuring firewood it can be kind of annoying if you got a tape measure you're trying to get it you don't want them all over the place most fireplaces are 16 to 18 in and uh you know you can do it with a measuring stick you can cut a piece of wood and use that but I just wanted to show you this neat trick show me this years ago and I was just like oh it's so genius you you always have your arm with you right so somewhere in here you can probably find 16 in I've measured my arms I know that between my Knuckles right here to my elbow is 16 in and I know for my pinking to my elbow is 18 in so I always have a measuring stick so you know if I if I want to be really precise about the wood I'll just do this and I know that right here cuz that's where my elbow is I know that's exactly 16 Ines uh I don't have a tape measure with me but you just have to believe me this is exactly 16 inch and even if your hand isn't perfectly 16 in right there you can grab it with this knuckle you got all these fingers all these Knuckles to work with so you can probably find 16 18 in somewhere just with your arm and then you've always got that you can make a really nice you know pile of firewood for yourself or for the the homeowner whoever you're cutting up for that way you're not giv especially as the the pieces get bigger people tend to cut them longer and longer you know you don't want to give the homeowner a bunch of 20in rounds when their their fireplace is 18 in it's just it's just it's it's incons is where you know because then they've got these two Ines they got to shave off so I just think that's a great little trick I can't do it that way it's so [Music] dumb boom perfect [Music] firewood okay so this topic is so important and I know what you're thinking well duh that's obvious but you can't cut the dirt you you got to stay out of it it is absolutely incredible what happens to your chain even just cutting the littlest amount of dirt so this piece is on the ground right here the best way for us to cut through this without cutting the dirt is we're going to cut about 3/4 of the way through we're going to roll it over and then we're going to do an undercut on the other side if I see any dirt or rocks or anything I wipe it off I promise you try as hard as you can not to cut the dirt even I know you're thinking oh what about just a little bit of dirt don't do it just trust me so just cut them like this it's [Music] [Applause] easy [Music] [Music] it's it's so much easier to just cut it roll it and finish to cut if you try cutting straight through you're definitely going to dull your saw I did cut straight through on one of those but it was kind of like on a branch so but if you just try if you're just trying to cut straight through it's it's not going to happen Okay I just want to show you how I'll just cut the dirt a little bit and look at the difference here so I haven't cut the dirt yet watch [Music] so more than twice as long and uh I'm kind of an idiot for doing it that way I I was pushing down on the saw uh I was like trying to I don't know why I you shouldn't push down on the saw you should let it do its own work I was pushing look look when I don't push the saw look how bad it cuts I mean that was bad enough but I mean watch [Music] this it doesn't cut I I I don't know why I was like I was like trying to cut it as fast as I could I was trying to cut it as fast as I could it was still 12 12 seconds but really it's not cutting at all cuz it's not self-feeding so now so the saw is dull you saw that I I barely Hit the Dirt this isn't even gravel or anything we're like in the woods this is this is Fluffy dirt right here and uh and it's wet outside I mean shoot that it's not like I cut gravel or concrete and the the saw is inoperable so we uh I'll show you just real quickly how to sharpen this thing up so you can get right back at [Music] it [Music] okay so now that the saw is dull we've got to get it sharp we got to get it cutting again this isn't like a fully comprehensive video about sharpening this is you know there are better ways to do it personally I I usually Square grind I I round file my smaller saws but I I use a square grinder for my big saws that's kind of nerdy and you know there's a big learning curve this is going to just be you know a basic guide to you know how to get your saw cutting really quite well it should cut better than a brand new chain if you do these steps and you don't have to go down any big rabbit holes trying to get your Technique or grinder setup or anything like that so we're just going to do a very basic chain sharpen your tutorial that anybody if you follow these steps anybody can do this so you can get your saw working really well so show you the tools we've got a 730 seconds round file and a organ file handle we've got a flat file and an organ handle and then for the the rakers I'm going to show you this this is a Oregon uh depth gauge guide I call them rakers some people call them depth gauges yeah personally I I use this West Coast saw one for my saw um it has four different settings on it but it's a little harder to use so I'm going to use the I'm going to use a simple one for this video and then I'll show you this this is really handy this is just a little guide right here which can really be helpful especially when you're starting to learn this is a organ guide for the 73 second file I saw all that stuff at sappy supplies.com and so we'll just get into it I'll probably zoom in on the Chain a little bit here okay so here we are this tooth is all knackered up look at that look at this tooth right here this is just absolutely knackered isn't that amazing how quickly that happened I mean I only touched the dirt for like a second and it's just all knackered so we've got the round file the round file fits in fits in here the first sharpen is always a little bit clunky like the file doesn't fit in there that well so I'll actually put it in more like at this angle at first and then I'll switch to the the proper angle I'm just trying to kind of create a spot for my file to get in there so I'm actually going like 90° against the tooth right now I'm just trying to create a little room for my file to fit in there it's always the hardest on the first sharpen so now that I'm in there I'm kind of coming under the tooth and we're just going to swipe away until this tooth is sharp okay so there you have it there's the basic shape it's just you know there's really not much to it you just you just carve it out the only thing is you know you got to keep in mind that the the file because it's round if you hold it too far down you can actually not be hitting this top plate and if you hold it too high up you can actually flatten this top plate so you know you got to be careful um you do want to get the whole thing you want to look kind of like a crescent shape like a crescent Moon so basically if you use this guide right here and some people they want to give the guides a hard time I like the guides I think that they work pretty good because what what it does is it takes it allows you to instead of like needing a bunch of skill and practice at sharpening it just saves you a bunch of time it gets the hard part taking care of because what happens is the the tooth sits on the top the top of the tooth rests on the bottom of this guide right here which places the file at the at a very nice height and it also gives you the angle that you want to go for right here so another thing that you can do is you can use one of these guides and this it's kind of hard because once again the first sharpen on this chain so I got to make some room in here the another thing you can do is you can you know you can scoop out a bunch of metal cuz you can sharpen faster without the guide you can get more of the tooth and get the bottom of the tooth so you might you know get the tooth like 90% of the way and you can see there is a this is so hard to film by yourself man you can see there's a line right there that's going to run parallel to the bar and that's going to give you your angle you know obviously the guide isn't necessary but it just makes it a heck of a lot easier to make sure that you are setting the file down in the correct spot because the the file is round it has to sit sort of like I don't know 2/3 or 3/4 of the way up on the tooth so that you're getting underneath it and you see there how we've got like a nice Crescent shape it looks like a c if you if you're if you're too high with the file this part is going to be flat and if you're too low it's going to have a they call it a slope if you're too high and it's going to have like a big beak if you're too low so you basically want it to look like that so that tooth is good so you know guide or no guide it doesn't really matter but that's the basic shape that you're going for you definitely want to get all this metal down here you know um so you want it to look like basically the top of the tooth should be at the same spot as this that that's the basic shape that you're going for and you're going to do that with every tooth you can leave the guide on you can take the guide off you can use the guide just for the very top at the very end um but now that the tooth is sharpened we've got to take care of this raker right here so the raker regulates how much wood the cutter actually grabs so the lower this is the more wood this tooth is going to hit and you got to remember we only want to cut we're basically making little it's like a chisel like a planer we're just trying to use this top right here to actually peel off strips of wood if you take this all the way off you might think oh it'll cut really fast cuz this whole tooth is going to cut but it it's just going to jam up in the wood it's not going to actually cut so the higher this is and every time you sharpen it see the slopes down so as you sharpen it this raker needs to be adjusted you need to file this down because eventually this is going to be higher than the teeth which it's about even now and so you're just going to see powder it's just going to be powder you're going to like what the heck is going on so we've got to lower this well how low do you go well let's not eyeball let's just use the guide let's just measure it these are really funky rakers I don't know why they look like that usually usually they're more like straight like this is all caddy Wampus I don't know what the deal is with these so we need to adjust this me zoom out a little bit okay so here's our Oregon guide and this is set to uh this is set to 025 of an inch honestly I don't really fully understand those numbers but uh so this is 025 so the more aggressive you go 025 that's a pretty conservative number the more aggressive you go the bigger bites you're going to take so 0.50 would be like really aggressive 0.25 that's good you don't need to go any more than that for most people if you're in really soft wood you know like a fur and stuff like that you can go more than this but only when you're bucking wood as soon as when you start to go diagonal um like if you're in a hardwood you're going to get w w the the Chain's going to bind up it won't be able to pull through so 0.25 is just a good overall ad depth to go for I would just stick with this unless you like I said if you're in really soft wood then you can be more aggressive but for the most part you know if you're out on the East Coast or something you're want to keep it there and so you just put it right on there and now this is resting on the teeth but it's got a little bit of a recess in here so that the raker pops up just a little bit it protrudes past this opening right here and uh you just stick it on there and you just file across and you can see how the metal is getting shiny right there so shiny means I just filed it so you know and that's another thing when you sharpen your tooth you want to look you want to actually get underneath the tooth and look at it if the whole thing is shiny then you know that you sharpened it all so we just took a little bit off the raker right here and now it's it's a little bit lower it's almost imperceivable but you just wanted a little bit lower and honestly I could probably take a couple extra swipes off this if I wanted you know I live in the Pacific Northwest our Wood's pretty soft but you know that's basically and if I stick my guide back on there you can see it's it's right there and so that's what I'll do with every tooth so I'll actually you know I'll sharpen each tooth and then I'll measure each raker measure the rakers just do it it's easy and it uh what it does is it makes sure that each tooth is grabbing the same amount of wood let's you know some people say count your Strokes sharpen all your teeth the same that's because the theory is you want the teeth to be all grabbing the same amount of wood if one side is grabbing more wood than others you know you're going to have it's going to feel like your bar is bent you're going to be cutting bowls and stuff but if you measure your rakers if this rakers measured you know you could sharpen these all the way down to Nubs and this one could be long it doesn't matter you just don't you don't need to count your Strokes or anything just focus on each individual tooth get the cutter sharp get the raker measured and the saw will perform well it doesn't matter if they're all the same length or not as long as you measure the rakers so I'll go through and I'll sharpen each tooth and then I'll go through and I'll do each raker and honestly it's hard for me to do this it's hard for me to rush through this because I could talk about chainsaw chain for hours uh but that's just the basic gist of how to get your saw sharp okay and I'll show you just show you how I do this if I've got so this tooth you can see like this whole corn right here is folded in I got to take quite a bit of metal off this and actually if I have a really knackered chain and I have to take a lot of metal off sometimes what I'll do is this I'll actually use two files they're both 7 30 seconds but the thing is you can sharpen so much faster and easier without the guide but I do like how the guide gets the top plate the angle and the depth perfect so if I have like a lot of metal to take off see I'll I'll start in like this I'm just trying to carve a spot cuz it's the first time I've sharpened this chain you know I'm just trying to carve a spot and now I go back to my angle and what I'll do is I'll just sharpen it without the guide because it's so much faster see I got to take a lot of metal off this tooth so the tooth's 90% there and then I'll just take the guide just so I can get the top plate and everything just totally perfect I'll just use the guide for just a few swipes and that's a really sharp tooth and I took a lot of metal off really fast and you know you don't need the guide but it I just like the consistency um so if I have a lot of metal to take off sometimes I will rock two files and just do the guide at the very end just to really get like get the tooth 95% of the way there and just really true it up with that guide at the very end there if I'm trying to sharpen really quickly okay back at this log here all right we sharpen the chain let's see how it does [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] now [Music] [Applause] [Music] so there you go it's not the fastest cutting saw in the world but it's cutting smoothly with very little effort on my part you know it's a pretty small saw um so like I said it's not it's not the fastest cutting machine but the chain is cutting well cuz it's nice and smooth very little effort on my part to cut with this so this thing's uh this thing's sharp if you remember before the top of my chain was all dark looking that's like burnt pitch and stuff on it if the Chain's sharp the the chain should be you know pretty shiny so it's actually looks cleaner now than before I was running [Music] it all right well we're done cutting so not everybody is as particular about this as I am but I like to keep my saws very clean just because I've noticed over the years I've had many Saws and I don't know the ones that are cleaner the ones that last a long time A lot of times when you're cleaning it you find all sorts of you know nuts and bolts missing you fix it right then and there the saw also can build up a lot of heat if you don't clean it up because it just gets so packed full of Gunk the saw is very clean we've only cut you know one tree with it but I'll show you anyway so you know first thing we want to do is uh we want to take the side cover off use this just fast faster than a bar inch Okay so we've got a little bit of gunkan here and all I do to clean this really is I use an air compressor usually I do this outside but I'm just going to do that this in here see if I can show you all the gunk blown out of it oh yeah dunk all over my garage okay and you want to clean the bar too these um these little these little West Coast saw deals they're actually really good at getting the gunk out of the bar which there's like nothing in this I like I only cut one tree with it but the if you when you clean out the gunk in the bar that's actually look at that I am getting some out of it this Gunk also builds up this all builds heat and resistance so getting this crap out of here helps a lot but the in my opinion the most important part of the bar to clean are these little oil ports right here so right here this is a part you really want to make sure that you clean this is the oil Port right here this is where the oil comes out and it goes into you know these little holes on your guide bar line up with it right there and that's what oils your saw you want to make sure that's clean and sometimes if your saw is super gunky like I'll cover this up with my thumb so I'm not blowing stuff in there but other times like I'll actually blow like I'll try to blow at this angle so it goes this direction that way Blow from that way that way I'm not blowing Gunk into the oil oil hole so I'll kind of do that to make sure it's okay excuse the awkward camera angle here but now that I blew it out I'll actually cover this with my thumb so I'm not blowing crap into the oil okay so all that Gunk is clean a lot of times I'll blow I'll blow all around just to try to get all the gunk off of there a little more and if the saw is really dirty really grimy I'll actually use gas I'll pour gas on it and scrub it and it takes the it takes all that Gunk off uh actually pretty well now the the most important part of you know to clean the saw is the air filter and it's usually under this cover this saw is kind of weird usually they have like easy click deals this one you actually have to [Music] unscrew so that comes off kind of a weird there's a clip right here they're all a little bit different okay so the air filter comes off and and you know there's there's like nothing in it but that that will build up and obviously the more dust you have in there the the more likely it is that something's going to get through you're you're going to suffocate your saw it won't be able to breathe if you don't clean that regularly um I'll show you this too now it's also important on the on these saws that you you see the the throttle right there you know you see that opening and closing right there A lot of times you you want to choke the saw so that the so that that valve is closed so that way when you're when you remove the air filter you don't have Gunk falling down in there so kind of a weird air filter but it it's still very clean I only cut one tree with it but it's important to keep up on that that's the most important part of the saw of clean probably all right let's put this thing back together I'm giv the saw away so I need to ship it so I'm not going to be putting the bar and chain back on but we'll put the covers back on and I don't know why this is the case but I've just noticed with some saws you you got to clean the air filters way more than others they don't all get dirty at the same rate I don't know what the deal with that is but that is what I've noticed but yeah clean saw is a happy saw just everything's going to operate so much better so much more smoothly if you just try to clean the gunk out somewhat regularly you know so things aren't binding up and getting hot and not working well I'm telling you when you see a clean saw even if it's an old saw it's going to run better than some old grimy thing usually all right so the saw is [Music] clean okay so the saw is clean so now let's say we want to store it for the winter or for any sort of long duration your saw is going to perform a lot better if you just do this step okay so before we store it we want to get the gas out of this thing so I'm going to open this other gas container the gas gas is going to is what really fouls up your saw when it stores for a long time I mean I so and and we we've got ethanol free gas in here which is going to help a lot but still we just want to get it out of the saw because it's just going to be less likely to you know separate and Gunk up and gas has an expiration date so I'm shipping this saw off cuz I'm giving it away but you know if I'm storing it I would do the same thing so I'm just going to try to pour this back into this can here and don't worry about the bar oil I have to empty my bar oil because you can't ship a saw with fluids in it but if you're storing it the bar oil is not going to go bad you don't need to dump that out but you you want to you want to dump the gas out of it the battery saws are so great they can just sit forever and you don't need to worry about you know the gas or any of that stuff fing up you don't got to worry about the carburetor don't got to worry about not blowing gunk in there when you're cleaning it out so I'm a huge fan of the battery saws they they don't quite do the trick or they just don't have the same power the gas ones do but they've come a long ways and they probably will eventually someday they're getting really good and they are a whole lot easier to maintain than the gas ones okay so we dumped the gas out and it's out of the tank but it's actually not out of the saw it's still in the carburetor what we're going to do is we're actually going to run this saw and we're going to let it idle to death and then I'll make sure that all this the gas is completely it's completely out of the saw [Music] [Music] all right man that thing took two and a half minutes that thing was stubborn did not want to die okay so this saw is empty it's ready to be stored I'm going to be shipping it off I I'm not sure how I'm going to uh do the giveaway yet but I'll put it in the description of this video by the way if you see any comments in the comments like hey you won some some people sometimes they they steal my profile picture they slightly change my name they say hey message me on telegram you want an iPhone or something like that those are scams I've been getting bombarded with those lately but I will be giving this away but I'll like I said I'll put it in the description how I'm going to do that and how I'm going to announce the winner um I'm not sure how I'm going to do that yet but so this SI was ready to go I hope you like that video let me know did I miss anything in this video it was very it's kind of difficult to get everything into to one video but that's the gist of it that's how that's how you own and operate and maintain and uh store a chainsaw a gas powered chainsaw so you know if you watch that video all the way through you're not going to be you know this this video is not going to make you any sort of uh expert but it Bas it gives you the gist of it you basically if you can you know retain the information from this video you basically know how to run a chainsaw and uh it's just that simple I I appreciate you guys watching please check out my store sappy supplies.com and please like And subscribe um recently hit a million subscribers so thank you for that and yeah hopefully that video you found that educational and entertaining maybe you could share it to somebody who's buying their first chainsaw or something like that and uh well with that being said thanks again guys I'll see you later

Channel: Guilty of Treeson

Views: 183,378

Keywords: chainsaw, arborist, tree work, logging, logger, tree felling, tree topping, wood, wood working, construction, demolition, blue collar, manly stuff, wood cutting, chainsaw carving, tree, trees, dangerous jobs, extreme jobs, climbing, climber, Landscaping, arboriculture, send it, sappy supplies, sappy, tree removal

Id: Dn7tJ2Mj4XY

Length: 78min 51sec (4731 seconds)

Published: Sat Dec 02 2023