Wingnut's Art of Longboarding 3 - The Quest for Style

me foreign [Music] foreign foreign [Music] check it out please here on lazydays it's art of longboarding part three yeah [Applause] [Music] [Music] i've been coming to japan for many years doing promotions with robert we bring the whole robert august surf team down and we get to visit a lot of beaches it's funny every year when we come people are always you know apologizing for the quality of the surf for some reason surfers in japan like surfers in other places in the world don't think their waves live up to the quality of waves in california or hawaii or elsewhere and i think it's because they've seen too many videos where they cut out all the bad days and only show you the perfect days i think surfers need to learn to love the waves that they have because every spot has its day where it's just as good as the top breaks in california and almost as good as some of the best breaks in hawaii so love your spot it'll treat you good [Music] one of our team riders is matt armstrong a goofy foot from newport beach california and he's got a real smooth traditional style you'll see that he takes really small steps and is one of the better nose riders on the robert august team [Music] you'll notice that the smaller the wave gets the smaller the steps the surfer will take you know when matt gets down to the really tiny beach breakway it's real tight close together steps getting him out to the nose maybe we can keep it between the lines dodger kremel also on the robert august team goofy foot from huntington beach takes larger steps big one two steps to get all the way out to the nose and it's a much more open style but it's still accomplishing the same thing getting out to the nose getting your nose right getting back two styles two ways to go at it both work cody is the leading regular foot on the robert august team has a really traditional style and keeps it very smooth there's a lot of body english and cody's surfing you can see him work with his knees and his hips and his shoulders and he'll lift out of his turn he sets things up and always keeps it really smooth he likes really heavy boards like keeps everything smooth and also gives him glide through the smaller beach break sections still manages to progress ahead of it just because of the momentum of the board [Music] we got invited down to surf in miyazaki where they have the ocean dome the largest indoor wave pool and some of the best surf breaks in japan the idea was there was a typhoon moving up the coast well it was a great idea but as all surfers know sometimes it just won't pan out a low came in blocked the surf so we got to look at a dozen perfect setups and none of them with any surf over waist or chest high [Music] miyazaki is one of those lucky coastlines where there's all sorts of surf in a real narrow area and for some reason you know up and down the coast it's not always like that but there's reef breaks river mouths beach breaks i mean it's a really fortunate little zone the little areas that have phenomenal surf where the rest of the coastline is you know out of luck the beach break in miyazaki is very similar to the beach breaks in huntington beach and newport beach in southern california sand bars there's some groins it's the sand out of the river that creates the sand bars and gives you the variety of surf [Music] it was really fun coming here and getting to surf with some of the japanese professional longboard surfers i've surfed with one of them before his name is mommy and he's one of the i get to tease him he's one of the older guys he's older than me so that makes it fun and he's been a professional surfer in japan for years and he has that professional style never makes mistakes you'll never see mommy swim in after his surfboard the second surfer we served with was tetsu a really good and smooth nose rider i think what i like best about tetsu surfing is his fade he's got a great initial fade turn that you know he's just calculating and waiting for the wave to set up and then he pulls the trigger slams the board in the direction he wants to go and fires is the third surfer we served with and he's actually the local from down here and he had a much wilder looser style he would probably fall more than the other two guys but also tried more i mean he would just get wild and to me i really like that because he's willing to fail and i think more surfers need to be willing to do that [Music] beach breaks are fun because there's more variety the waves will come from different directions and depending on the tide and the swell it'll break more in one spot or the other and it's it's so varied so you really get good at reading the ocean [Music] so and there's a lot with the tide changing it'll be softer at high tide a little hollower at low tide you'll deal with closeout sections it's really the best surf for practicing everything so that's what's nice about a point break where you can finesse fine-tune things but the beach break is where you can figure out everything we moved around to different spots looking for better ways and it's neat to see the evolution of surfing in japan is now kids are doing it women are doing it more people in japan surf now than [Music] ever [Music] there's a distinct difference between pets and mommy and their style tetz has a real california style real stand up real smooth and mommy has the lower rotation more the performance style that you'll see a little bit of that in hawaii so two distinct styles in the japanese surfers [Music] [Music] [Music] it's the first time i've ever surfed a wave pool they've got wave pools in america this one here was one of the first ones ever created the ocean dome at the sigaya resort in miyazaki has to be one of the best wave pools in the world the ocean dome wave was surprisingly good quality wise so the small setting was really fun and then when they cranked out for the bigger waves it got our asses kicked it was great you actually you know it was challenging trying to make the really steep late drops if you're lucky enough to have both the time and the money to rent a wave pool like the ocean dome it would probably be really neat to help you figure out how to tube ride you know any natural ocean swell is going to vary in size with each set that's coming in this same size same takeoff spot you can work your way deeper and deeper or even back door that initial peak too wave's going to break every you know 30 seconds whatever the pool is set for so you can really figure out your timing and how to take off on that wave [Music] [Applause] [Music] and then you apply that knowledge to a real ocean situation surfers have come to hawaii to prove themselves since the early 60s this has been where the biggest waves the most powerful waves are it's because this island chain is positioned perfectly in the middle of the pacific ocean that it takes a beating from storms that are generated all around the world [Music] one day soon the sun's gonna shine and you'll be mine until [Music] the hawaiian islands being volcanic peaks that just stick up in the middle of the ocean these giant swells come uninterrupted and heave themselves up on the coral reefs around the islands so it's a much more powerful deeper swell that throws up on the shallow coral reefs the waves here are faster they're more powerful and more punishing [Music] come back to me and open up your loving arms [Music] we stayed at mark martinson's house at pupakea on the north shore of oahu a great launching place for surfers and has been for years and years [Music] we were really fortunate that we ran into one of mark's friends tiger espares and tiger has been one of the better surfers in hawaii for decades and has a really great take on what it means to be a surfer in hawaii yeah if the water's clean and you know sun's out all the time um but we also need people we also if if no one came how are we gonna share yeah first people to come was of course the ones that came at my time they were they were like they had the same soul like us um they just wanted to do it for fun they came here because they they just want to try see if they can do it and uh you know for me i feel that in order to to cut to keep something going that is hawaiian it needs to be shared not only to the hawaiian beach breaks are are different all over the world for various reasons you can have some cobblestones you can have just sand in miyazaki it's a sand beach break with a river mouth nearby so there's a lot of sand moving so that sand bar is going to shift around sand bar in hawaii is based on a reef bottom there is a coral reef out there that the sand has developed on and created this right and left that we've been riding so what you do is you sit on the beach you watch the peak happen for for a little while and you figure out what your landmark is on the beach paddle out look back get your get your mark get your your set up that's your lineup and that's where you stay a bigger wave is going to break out a little farther on the peak of the sand bar smaller wave will move in a little bit so you have to stick with your lineup i mean your lineup's basically true you can see where the last wave broke you look at that little triangle of white water and that peaks kind of your spot [Music] the peak's going to shift around a little bit but basically the sand bar is going to be in the same place i mean that beach break the reason that peak's coming at you if the swell's not real consistent like you've got a wind swell that's kind of coming all over the place it might just hit the sandbar wrong and just peter out underneath you just fake you out that happens all the time [Music] we came to hawaii this time to shoot the film because it's the place where surfing started and where every surfer comes to prove themselves and throughout time [Music] surfers have come here and there's been somebody to show them around i was brought here by older guys that showed me the rope showed me places to go so this time i brought a kid from newport from where i grew up alex knost his first trip to hawaii he's been in japan he's been to vietnam but he'd never been to hawaii so it was kind of time to bring him along and share this deal with him alex is a kid he's a really gifted kid and it's fun to watch him because his style is evolving all the time taking in the styles of his favorite surfers and making them his own he is morphing into his hero's style and later two years from now it'll be fun to see the changes in his style where he's got lance carson arm movements where he's got this kick stall that his friends have you'll see that later dissolved and distilled a little bit in [Music] change [Music] you've got a real traditional style you're definitely a single fin guy all the way kind of the ultra classic end of the spectrum how did that develop well the whole singlethin deal kind of started just it was it was what my dad wrote i mean basically i i can't say anything other than that you know i didn't even really think of you know high performance longboarding because i figured you know hey doing the hairs and the big turns was you know was done on a short board hey i'm not riding a short board [Music] he's a flyweight he weighs almost nothing it's that cheap little body deal so he's a great nose rider and it's not just because he's light it's not all little like kids can nose right he's got a really good sense of the wave and the sense of wave speed in he's fortunate that his dad's a really good surfer i just got hooked there you know i got into the culture and started watching a lot of old surf videos you know my dad had lying around the house you know watched a lot of a lot of lance carson at malibu you know and just watched how he did those nice drop knees and a lot of nose riding so i was like so i just i really got into that and just you know keeping it mellow but then uh i don't know just you know watch watch old videos get the old images in your head and just kind of you know go from that and then that's how i've made mine surfing we've been experimenting with these mini long boards they're transition era boards that mark martinson has been making for us [Music] and they allow you to ride a little deeper a little looser than a full longboard [Music] and it's really fun to swap off we've got a couple different boards of different sizes and you can experiment more you can turn turn a little tighter you can cut back a little harder and experiment with a new board that works better and it's become extremely popular in california you get to take all that energy and that love and the skills and make them your own it develops into a really good surfer the fade turn which is almost exclusively a classic long boarding turn [Music] it's that early entry that a long board has that allows you that glide and what that fade turn allows you to do is it allows you to set your wave up and wait for the energy to be there in front of you the two most common ways you'll see a fade turn done the first is to take it all the way out into the flat where you're taking all that gravity all that energy of going down in the face you load it up until you get into the flat and then you get to your feet and you just get all that drive and the inertia the second way is you'll see kind of a high fade up in the lip and you just let that wave you let your energy just kind of going towards the pocket and then you pop it up high and you stay hot when joel's riding is really heavy as classic nose rider you'll see him use the high fade he hangs the board out there waits till the wave sets up and then just whips it over and goes right to the nose [Music] and that's joel's best set up for nose ride mark is the one who i patterned my fey turn after he'll take it way out into the flat crank the board all the way over and really get a lot of power and drive out of his fade turn the big thing with surfing is you cannot predict what each wave is going to give you so you adjust as the wave develops in front of you [Music] you want to walk on the board to complement what your goal is are you trying to get a nose ride or are you trying to just improve trim you come out of a turn and you might not want a whole nose ride but you need to move your weight a little farther forward you want to come out of the turn and just take a stepper one little step and that allows your board to flatten out and progress farther or do you come out of a turn and you're going to set up a nose right and you're going to take all the steps all the way out to the front and for a lot of people if you're just beginning surfing you want to wait till you have a nice little clean section in front of you slow the board down stall it and then walk just to get the practice on the board the hawaiian style of longboarding is all based around power powerful surfers dealing with powerful waves dino miranda probably captures the all-around looseness of the hawaiian surfer you want the fire in the shape of your head you got hawaiian souls [Music] check out the show [Music] it doesn't matter which way the wave is going to go you can almost can't tell if he's surfing front side or backside because he switches stance so easily and he has the ability to do things with a long board the guys are still trying to do with short boards i i consider myself a progressive surfer i mean i love to do traditional moves like that which is it's easy to do you know it's easy to do i love to do traditional noodles because it's it's part of our it's part of our mandatory things that we have to do in consciousness you know if you don't do the 50 50 then one of the things that dino can do that very few other surfers can do as consistently as he is a tail 360. [Music] he can throw that board up onto the lip like you're almost off the lip but then he shifts his weight to his front leg and kind of lays the back one down to kind of lift the tail out of the water and that allows the fins to kind of start to rotate into the beach and as soon as they bite it'll spin the rest of the board around buttons is what taught me how to do the 360s and now we transferred it over to the longboard and everybody's all like how do you do it on longboard i'm not like well as soon as you do it on a short board then you come and see me and then i'll teach you how to do it on the longboard you know it's like [Music] the power based hawaiian style i mean for me is probably best exemplified in bonga perkins because he puts together all the power and drive that is quintessentially hawaiian and then still has that magic nose riding skill has that ability [Music] bonga's riding style is all off the tail i mean you see all his power it's on that back foot he uses it to drive the tail of his board into the water and just send the rail up the face of the way it's power it's drive it's back leg but it's also using the rest of his body to make it [Music] work bongas has the ability to surf in a combination of styles to take all that tail riding and still get up to the nose and control and drive from the nose which is really hard harder to do on a multiple fin board and you'll see them get up there and glide it around just when i come home i just feel like staying on my tail a little bit and just getting a few tubes that might run to some nose here and there a few occasions that i'm you guys might catch me on the nose but the magazine's like this i try and i try and you know do it just for all you folks lance exemplifies hawaiian confidence in any condition [Music] lance's surfing style is very powerful and very controlled he'll nose ride for contests he'll nose ride when the waves are appropriate for it but for the most part lance is about getting barrel glances about power and you can see him set things up and lancel used a stall and it's all about positioning into the pocket and it's that controlled power and it comes from that personality california guys are kind of trying to style out and all this other and you guys are a lot looser i can break that down in california they're not running for their lives they're stalling trying to get nose rides you know drop knee cut backs over here the first thing you learn is to get out of the way of the wave you know because if you don't you're gonna get thumped on so we learn at a young age how to turn your board and get out of the way but yet still get back into the wave you know another question for you i mean in california maybe one or two guys attempt switch stance but it's like second nature to everyone over here you know when you're small you don't really know what you stand you go what you feel comfortable over here i've learned over the years well i got a good teacher his name is rusty then i just kept doing it and kept doing it until now it's like second nature to me i can write right to the left he really tries to exert his will on the wave and that's you know lance can do these things lance has that dominant ability and it's it's what he's passed on to bonga and to dino into the other guys trying to instill their own confidence into them and lance lance shows that when he serves in hawaii there's a really neat crew of kids you know they're all in their teens they're chasing bonga down bonga was kind of chasing rusty and chasing lance and chasing dino because bonga's younger than them the new group one of them kiko yuimura he's china's kid china was one of the big time competitive surfers runs one of the more fun longboard contests anywhere in the world at queens [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] grew up watching some really good surfers and it's hard to really pinpoint little things i think it's just a product of all his friends and the people he serves with in the south shore and on the north shore who's got stuff that you want a lot of the hawaii surfers i mean a lot of hawaii guys i see like bonga and rusty you know they've got they've got the power and their surfing as well as they got the style which you need both if you want to you know try and compete so [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] far [Applause] is another one of the kids that's up and coming real loose trying to figure everything out ibanga bongo perkins he's really good i like him style is really food and smooth [Music] so it's fun to watch him go for stuff and watch him push his own limits especially when he surfs with his friends who are better surfers when he's surfing with the older guys and he's like i can do that i can do that watch this [Music] [Applause] surfing with your friends surfing the guys that are better than you you learn you grow you become a better surfer the leading style difference between the hawaiians and the californians hawaiians have adapted to the more powerful wave staying closer to the pocket they've used the multiple fins set up to its fullest advantage of being able to drive a tighter turn back into the pocket they're really energy focused around the pocket whereas the californian used to a longer point break or a softer beach break wave kind of draws a longer smoother line because our wave is more forgiving and what you'll see with the hawaiians is they have a tendency to stand because it's a thruster setup you'll see that they stand their back foot is right where those two fins are that's where they're getting their drive because the fins and the hard edges on the rail that's what gives them all the power out of their turn and the californian stands right back in the same theory right in front of his fin box that's where he's getting his drive out of the single fin so it's real important where you stand on the board and a good trick sometimes when you have a new board or if you're switching from a single fin to a multiple fin is to either build up a little bar of wax you know build up a little mound of wax on your board and maybe put a little piece of tape there or a sticker so that way when you go to make a turn if it doesn't work right you can look down okay and then you know when you make the second turn on that wave you've adjusted and see if it works better because your your foot's in a better place so there's the two basic styles that you see over here are the straight thruster or the two plus one set up which do you prefer i prefer the two plus one because it handles better on bigger waves i like the thrusters too they're more loose the more they'll turn a lot quicker but the hawaii has a lot better stronger power waves so you need a little bigger fat pin because at times the regular thrusters do spin out on bigger waves and you find for nose riding will you change out your your back fin to make it a little longer even or right the nine inch fins are better for those writings but the regular seven instruments are good too for knowledge they're pretty much all around board for two plus one [Music] there are more women in the water today than ever little girls older women mothers and daughters it's great to see that happening it's it changes the vibe in the water [Music] you get a bunch of guys together and they get real serious and real competitive with each other and you get some girls in the water and it's hey it's fun again remember we're at the beach we're having a good time individual surfers style and the way they approach a wave is as much a result of people that influenced them you know people's styles that they like as much as it is the waves that they grew up riding [Music] the two women from california carrie and maureen have really distinct styles that are a little bit opposite of each other [Music] maureen grew up with a classic california beach family and it has an absolute traditionalist approach to [Music] waves never been in the water and not seen maureen smile she likes to play with the wave the ocean is her best friend and she likes to have that little dance with it and that's what it looks like when maureen's in the water little subtleties she can stall and pivot and just place her board in a wave she likes to ride a really big board she likes to have a smooth glide with her style that really captures the way maureen serves you uh your whole family serves you've been a surfer since in utero actually right exactly my mother was a professional surfer [Music] she has always been known as a really feminine type surfer she's got a real graceful style and i always looked up to her and i shortboarded you know i mean all through my teens high school and then when i went to college i kind of was strapped for time and i didn't really have as much time to get down to the beach and so i just started taking out a longboard for fun and and i just i love the glide i mean for me it was just like oh my gosh i'm like taking three paddles and i'm into the wave and it's just fun carrie's style she grew up in san diego influenced by one of the classic san diego style masters skip fry super smooth trying to get long clean rides trying to keep her upper body quiet [Music] trying to pull in on wei is trying to use her power she's a physically really strong woman so she's trying to exert that power and so she'll push the board a little bit more try to get a little bit more vertical with it but again it's a california approach skipped ricer right out in front where i was surfing every day so i mean there was somebody who could just glide his board and looked everything was effortless little lit waves big waves it was effortless so i mean you probably have to be the biggest person that influenced me initially i figured a lot of it especially with my bigger heavier boards is i move my feet a lot more like if i'm gonna cut back i'll put my foot back on the tail you know like i'll move that foot around rather you see the guys like planting themselves and turning themselves i'll try to do it with using the board a little bit more i think [Music] there's a noticeable difference between the hawaiian women and the california women just like with the guys desiree's style is really the quintessential hawaiian style of surfing with a slight feminine twist to it it's a little bit of a longer line a really clean line but still oriented into the pocket i mean you get the best parts of the short boarding but you get the greatest parts of the longboarding also you get to pick the queen of the crop wave you know and then you get to i mean have a good time on it it's like a dance you know that's exactly [Music] i've always thought that a good surfer makes it look easy you'll see that with desiree really complicated off the lips off the white water wrap around turns as if it was nothing really fluid and loose and i think the more progressive style of surfing which you see in hawaii the more you know about it the more difficult you know that it is and desiree has the ability to make that look easy [Music] and that's what makes them such good surfers it looks like they're just out there playing like it's the easiest thing in the world stalling sets up a number of things they're stalling from the nose they're stalling from the tail there's a little mid board check stall where you're just lifting the board you're just cutting it back 10 15 degrees just kind of waiting for the wave as opposed to the full bring it back into a cut back the most obvious stall is just the cut back that's where you're taking your board back into the energy of the wave waiting there for the wave to develop in front of you [Music] it's just done off the tail either a flat footed cut back or the drop knee cut back that allows you to get back you cut back you wait you watch what's going on down the line when it sets up you bring it back and off you go another form of stalling is the the check stall or the little kick stall where you're just kind of lifting your board up just kind of kicking it lifting it for just a second waiting you're not committing to a cut back to changing direction you're just kind of checking it waiting staying on the tail and then letting it run [Music] alex really uses that little swing or check stall i mean it's a real lance carson-esque move to stand way back on the tail kind of swing the board back and forth waiting for the wave to develop and then letting it run down the line and another form of stalling is the nose riding stall where when you're out in the trim spot and you're ready for hanging five five has a lot of speed has a lot a lot of forward progression and if you slow it down when you actually get all the way on the nose you're putting so much weight and pressure you're going to start to stall the board out a little bit and when you need to pick it up and go fast you move your weight back but actually hanging 10 that maneuver is a stalling [Music] what happens when your nose riding at a beach break especially with a wind swell where it's inconsistent a little bigger a little smaller the wave is going to shift around and it's going to change and what you have to be able to do is adjust the line that your board's taking and it's little thing you're hoping when everything's right you're just going to go up and get a nice nose ride you're going to be able to stand and lock in with a beach break that shifts around you're going to have to shift your weight back or you're going to have to shift your weight to the outside rail you're going to switch down the face of the wave because it's not a consistent peeling wave what's nice about a single fin is they're real forgiving in that situation they allow you to be kind of mid-board adjust out and around get to this side of the board adjust around it and then lock back in they're a little bit more forgiving [Music] frequently when you watch joel nose ride or good nose riders they actually make adjustments from the front third of the board they've made their move out there but they'll see things changing in the wave in front of them or they'll actually feel it through their legs so they're making little adjustments they're shifting a little down and up a little climbing and dropping it's just shifting your weight from one foot to the other just the same as you shift it forward when you can and back to slow down or go faster you'll see shifts where a little bit more inside rail or outside rail weight to compensate for what's going on in the face of the wave same thing with martinson you'll look at at the way that they change the waiting you'll see them either lean forward lean to a side make shifts and adjustments and a lot of it you'll see just little body tweaks little english that's allowing the board to change at the same time as as you'll see someone's arms move their weight's shifting arms going this way it means weights shifting to this leg you just see these little shifts go on it's little little hula stuff [Applause] everything that's being done with those adjustments it's keeping your weight and your balance basically over the center part of the board i mean you're shifting your weight here but to your leg but at the same time your upper body is trying to stay on the center of the board you're using the weight to drop a rail but you can't commit your whole body to it or you drop your body so that weight's going to that outside rail but your body and and you're the heaviest part your shoulders and your head still need to stay focused over the center of your board or you'll lose the whole lot the best surfers in the world are the guys that are having the most fun and that make it look easier than anything else and i don't think there's anyone in the world that makes surfing look easier than joel tudor [Music] [Music] [Music] he's got the ability to make the most complicated maneuver look effortless it's that fluidness in his body it's that relaxed style that you can't believe where he is in the position of the wave how high up in the face how steep the wave is and how relaxed he is through it [Music] and a lot of that being that relaxed makes it easier because he's more willing to accept the changes in the face of a wave and just adapt to him as you tense up the sharper and jerkier reaction is and the more likely you are to over-correct your board [Music] so joel's looseness and his fluidity allows him to adjust and control all the time making it look super easy basically the wave out front here you know nice fade turn come out to the nose yeah usually with nose riding you kind of want to set it up with a fade at first and uh sort of stall it at the top and kind of sort of watch the wave to see if it's going to speed up or slow down because sometimes right when you take off it it'll it'll peak up but it'll hold and you'll get like a steep section right in front of you and uh you can kind of like for me i usually like stand right here for a second and sort of like move it a little bit and wait for the wait for the wave to get the right speed to get to the nose and then as i feel that it's the right time i slowly start to move up sometimes you can stop here because you might be going a little too fast and this is a nice trim section to like be at the midway right here is a really nice neutral spot because you can still trim and you can move sort of like back and forth as much as you want rather than trying to go all the way back at first you know that might be the best spot or if you want you can sometimes stop in the middle to get your feeling of what it's like to ride this half and then move back you know or make your steps more forward [Music] interns are really important they can uh set you up for a lot of different things even for the tube or they can uh draw a really long bottom turn around a section just by staying on your stomach a little longer you know like getting up and drawing it out and it can set you up for a perfect nose ride you can fade back up you know say if you're going to go left you could go right fade and it'll slow you around just to the perfect part of the wave to where you can you know run back up and get there and hold it for a while or sometimes it can throw you off you could fade a little too much and not quite make it i have a question this is kind of to their point after having as many notes rights as you get succeeded and failed you kind of know when most people want to back off and think it's not going to make but don't you think that if you have the experience over time you know when a lot of people would actually back off the nose you know you're going to be fine it might go under a little bit but it's just you know going through some chop or even just a little thing that's the thing with nose riding is your back foot makes such a difference i mean i can kind of explain once your front foot gets up there this back foot can keep you from purling i mean just by putting it back because it's weight you know you're altering your back foot weight so as you start to get up high then you move it back up forward as you start to drop down low then you move it back and it's almost like you're planing through the next part waiting to get up high again and then you just move it back up and sit there until it's that digital anchor you want to drag it a little bit change your way it's really important is the way it starts to slow down i i move my my back foot forward and it starts to speed up i move it back just that so my weight's not forward and i'm not purling you understand i'm saying i start to alter my weight back so the weight the board starts to lift up a bit and then when it starts climbing up high back forward again sinking down move it back you know if you're going front side if your foot you're going left you'd obviously your feet would probably tend to be on uh probably say the left side of the stream [Music] and then if you're going right you know it's obviously the other way around here sort of tend to be over here a little bit more rather than on this side at least for my own personal preference [Music] and you're definitely not nose riding until both your feet get over the end that is one thing i want to make really perfectly quicker if you do not have your toes completely wrapped over and cheating and if they're up here you're not nose riding you're just trimming up close to the front half [Music] so what are the two the different kinds of waves the more steps the lesser obviously at a beach break because it lives so much faster you know you have to uh speed up your steps you can't really take your time so i mean say you take off and you stall rather than you know taking a bunch of steps like skip fry or somebody where you like take forever to get up there you kind of have to like make it quick like maybe make it sort of one two you know like forgive me it's only two steps [Music] the beach breaks and waves around japan and kamakura and all that sometimes maybe a few steps quicker and if you were at say malibu or maybe one of the river mouths or rincon or whatever you'd take less steps you know i mean at least for me that seems like on a wave like malibu you can take out and like you know stall for half of the wave if you want waiting your nose right and then take little itty bitty steps to like get up there [Music] i mean there's there's so many different cutbacks there's there's a cutback that's just kind of a check yeah kind of waiting for it there's the complete round house all the way around you bank back off the water and then there's you know drop knees and stuff where you actually that's probably the most difficult one [Music] too [Music] i mean anybody can sort of stand flat-footed and move the board around but it's so darn awkward to actually have to like it's all in your toes rather than your heel and i don't think people follow the foot so we understand that the all your power comes through in here and it's just sort of really awkward at times to like try and turn like that even your arms start doing good stuff but once you do get it down it's such like a like a beautiful way to cut back you know so many people for so many decades now have like had this really gorgeous [Music] for me personally where i like to turn is usually exactly my back foot goes right over where the fin is on the front of the fin on the bottom of the board i put my foot directly on that and that's like my turning patch it seems like that's where i get on my drive you know right out of that okay directly in front of the fin is where my back foot is okay so if i'm riding a mid length and my fin is super far forward you know say it's like 10 inches forward my stance is in the middle of the board when i'm cutting back it's like this long boards i mean you're like back here trying to get the thing to move around obviously it's heavier too so you got to stand further back to get to alter its course they're not quite so [Music] forgiving [Music] tie it into your own sort of well everybody's built differently no two people can sort of identify another your body types are different but you definitely can have influence from watching people you know say you saw david do a certain arch or one guy did an aerial this way or this guy did that you take from that but in the long run you end up making it your own sort of well you're just recreating you know it's the evolution of life it just the full cycle keeps going you know like you no one can get anywhere without being able to take from somebody else and i'm i think uh copying is the biggest form of planner so if someone copies you then you're obviously doing something right and uh that's the direction i'm going [Music] as my culture slips away [Applause] and i'm unable to fold my hands and ass favors that i do or don't deserve i try to do too much today [Music] my shot was missing but i rose to the desk my labor was on time and that's the word in case you haven't heard in case you haven't heard now maybe walk with me a while [Music] by the sky [Music] i tied a thread into delicately and gracefully i lose my complications grow and multiply now again [Music] [Applause] [Music] state of mind to ship our state of mind baby walk with me a while i want to stare upon the smile that made my life a mess the sunshine for your dress [Music] [Music] but [Music] hmm [Music] [Applause] [Music] butterscotch [Music] if there's only one thing that you take away from this video i hope it's the love for the ocean and the spirit of surfing and the fun that it has that is most exemplified by the hawaiian people they seem to have more fun in the ocean than anyone else and they're the most willing to share it and if that teaches you to share your home spot to share your lineups to share the fun little secrets of where you live with others then i'm happy because then you're loving the sport of surfing and the art of surfing as much as i am because they have all the fun they had it all to themselves and they've embraced us forever and letting us come and share it with them so share it with your friends make it a fun thing to do with everyone share it with your kids share it with your neighbors kids share it with as many people as you can because the more people that are in the water that are fun and happy and friendly the more we're all going to enjoy it [Music] it was a summer of our lives back in 93 it all seems like yesterday we shared our first kiss under the moon to stop the leaky drive and watch the sunsets from the bay [Music] i've been waiting [Music] i've been waiting here dreaming of the way it used to be [Music] the west side has grown since you've been gone there's been a lot of taking days but one thing still remains the same [Music] don't you [Music] there worry nothing there ain't nothing you can do it's just me yeah i feel this way it's just me and i don't know what to say cause i'm so caught up in you i'm so caught up in you oh i'm so caught up in you [Music] oh i'm so caught up in [Music] you oh i know that you must be wondering what's been going on what's been going on i don't know what it is but i know we gotta be strong hey hey [Applause] [Music] well i'll be all right there's just something that's been on my mind [Music] but when i'm with you when i'm with you you know i feel so fine cause you're always on my mind so don't you worry it ain't you there ain't nothing there ain't nothing you can do it's just me and i don't know what to say because i'm so caught up in you oh i'm so caught up in you oh i'm so caught up in you oh i'm so caught up in [Music] [Music] you you

Channel: ジョージ・カックルのLazy Days

Views: 83,991

Keywords: ジョージカックル, george cockle, ジョージ・カックル, 鎌倉, 湘南, surfers, lazydays, Art of Longboarding, ウイングナット, ハワイ, ジョエルチューダー, サーフィン, ロングボード

Id: GpfSP29lYqI

Length: 68min 7sec (4087 seconds)

Published: Thu Mar 25 2021