Will the Built S65 V8 Make More Power? - BMW E92 M3 - Project Frankfurt: PT9

coming up wide open throttle behold the light and how much power does the new engine [Music] make part nine of project Frankfurt I'm going to go get the preure third in why is the color so big on this thing feel like Dracula but when I think about it it's to protect you from the oils that must be it the ultimate leaking machine nice what what's in the box tell me come on I need to know hold on to your Rod brings I'm getting to it yes give me my shocks say hello to billstein B6 demonic shocks by evolve Automotive same shocks that I have on Project rley B6 temptronic which I absolutely adore they completely transformed the ride these however have been developed and made specifically to evolve Automotive specification by billstein and they are made to be even more compliant meaning they are more comfortable in the comfort setting and they are a bit stiffer in the sport plus settings so they're even better for the track on top of that they addressed one key issue that every single one of these cars has with stock suspension whether it's bin Zach or whatever and that is The Rake that they have from the factory where the front end sits slightly higher than the rear project Raleigh has that and it's really really annoying with these shocks evolve address that issue and the car should sit level front to back so I'm really excited to try them see how it looks and feel how it drives first remove the sway bar unhook the wheel speed sensor and the brake pad wear sensor and the brake line as well now I remove the pinch Bolt there's so much salt here it's ridiculous so now I need to lower the entire assembly and get the strut out this EDC connector I already disconnected in a attempt to stop the computer from switching the EDC shocks into the stiffest setting because the front walles in the shocks failed and then it automatically kicks them into the stiffest setting and it is unbearable to drive so so uncomfortable don't forget to remove the little sway bar for the headlight level sensor great now I have salt in my ear need to remove the tie rod okay with the tie rod removed one can extract the strut so do that before you do anything else and this can rest on the chair like that has it spring compressor compress the spring when it's loose like that the spring is compressed and now we can remove the Top Nut more leverage there you go that was stick it the top mount spring pad that doesn't sound brilliant here's the brand new one then the cup and ruined Bump Stop which we don't need with bin shocks because they have an internal Bump Stop So this bloody strut made the car unbearable to drive so when testing shocks like this the fluid filled ones they won't bounce back and that's normal but this is gas filled you can see here gas pressure so when you compressor L this this shaft should bounce back and when it doesn't you know that the strut is kaput and I want to scratch the new strut so have a nice blanket here this is the left one we have a brand new spring pad here which clips into place so the end of the spring needs to sit here so we have this cup here then the strut mount then the cup and a brand new nut give it a nice guten twist perfect so make sure that the spring is sitting correctly in the end of the spring pad super easy and that's one strut fin so line up this Notch with the cutout in the spindle first get the cable through okay I have brand new nuts here ah very gingerly that's in look at the brave chair there is a pin in the strut mount that you need to line up so now I'm going to lower the car get the hug acman to push on the entire assembly here and then we can torque the pinch bolt okay Hugh Jackman is ready to dance okay that'll do we can relieve Mr Jackman of his duties now we can put back the tie rod and now the wiring I'm going to sneak it past the fender liner and then through the box for the wheel speed sensor and the brake pad wear sensor and then zip tide along the wheel speed sensor wire and it's going to look nice and clean and be safely out of the way okay I zip tied everything underneath now we're just going to do it here I'm going to remove the air filter box for better access so here's the original EDC connection cap we need to remove the cable so remove this rubber here this is the connector that's supplied with Bilstein shocks plugs into the stock connector here then pop in the cap connects like that and all this can connect here then this connects to Here and Now I need to tidy up all of this so the wires are nicely routed not touching the chassis excellent and that concludes the front strut replacement while we are here we can replace the fuel pressure sensor we have nice and easy access we had codes for that in the previous episode here's the new one the this is updated one I want to say and for this we need to use an adapter in order to get it to fit so this is the adapter just going to tighten this real quick don't forget an oring here and just snug it up okay nice and easy now we can proceed with the rear shocks now we got to remove all of the trim and the trunk to access the shock top mount nice sther eh got to remove this Plastic Fantastic here various Clips there we go throw this away unplug the connector there it is now we need to support the suspension here okay now we can undo the shock Bolt BT very good now we can remove this nut here now I can get the shock out there it is 100% blown kaput so no shocks in the back so there's a rubber cap and like a small Bush here which I want to replace new shock going in all right that's in brand new dumper thingy then a washer and then we have two nuts that go here and the second nut all right perfect and now the wiring sneak the connector through connector and plug it in brand new bolt fingertight and the final torque is done with the car down on the ground and suspension fully loaded at right height cuz this is a bushing now I'm going to copy paste on the other side I wanted to show you something here's what driving and germer Winters for about 2 weeks does to your car remember a fresh refurbish calipers yeah the rust is starting to come through here and here and obviously here where the parts were not painted and here for some reason but more interestingly the stainless steel brake line is starting to rust as you can see here and here a lot as you can see same thing on the other side as well so I need to warranty this brake line with Pro Brak this shouldn't have happened as far as the caliper goes I talked to folch about this and they told me that I need need to add a lot more layers of this paint When painting the calipers with it I did 2 to three they told me you got to do 6 to8 and here where the paint was a bit thinner that's where it's starting to rust otherwise here it's totally fine the front ones are fine as well so I got to keep that in mind next time I'm painting the calipers the front brake lines however are fine nothing wrong with them as well as the calipers no rust just breake dust now we're going to move the car to the forpost lift and torque the rear shocks well would you look at that the suspension is leveled front to rear the front is not higher than the rear which is fabulous but keep in mind that these are square winter Wheels once the summer Wheels come they're going to fill up that Gap a bit more and it's going to look even better I'm really happy with this just driving here like this I can already tell it the suspension feels million times better it's soft it's actually comfortable and it needs fuel which is good cuz we're about to replace the fuel pump what a beautiful day the torque speculation for the rear shock bolt is 100 newm as we learned in the previous episode the left mirror is drunk so it Folds in perfectly fine now when you open it it should stop right here but as you can see it doesn't there's a pin here in the base of the mirror that's supposed to come out and stop the mirror and that pin is stuck if you remember we had to fix this on the right side on project Raleigh so now we're going to remove the mirror take this apart clean that pin and fix this very annoying issue so so if I stop it with my hand it's going to stop there but when you lock the car it just folds in that way pop the Tweeter speaker should just yeah pop out let it dangle like that and we can access three screws normally so should be a connector here and this is why I have BMW this is great engineering you don't have to remove the door panel okay a quick way to fix this issue is to fold the mirror that way I believe then you can drill a hole in the base and then spread some WD40 in there to loosen up that pin and that apparently works but in my opinion that's a temporary fix because you're not actually cleaning the dirt that's causing the PIN to get stuck so we're going to take this apart and attempt to clean that pin properly like we did on project Raleigh remove the mirror three screws is there another one no but there plastic tabs which we are probably going to break so I'm using zip ties to hold the Clips in place I can remove the cover without breaking it there it is looks like I didn't break the clips which is very good uhhuh two more screws here a clip here oh no this is not the same setup as with the as with the E60 we're going to have to dremel and break this and then replace the sleeve with a threaded one okay I found the threaded sleeve two of them actually so let's take this apart completely put that on the side as well and let's that comes off okay I'm going to use compressor and blow this out a little bit what we're going to do now is destroy the top of this sleeve so we can remove the spring and then separate the wing from the mirror base but before we do that we need to measure where the spring sits um that's 14 mm 14 to 15 mm so remember that write it down on your forehead so break out the Dremel and start chopping this thing here without damaging the cable safety googas yeah [Music] okay do so I made recesses in the top of the sleeve and now I'm going to bend them inwards it's thin metal so it bends easy stabbed myself with the screwdriver ah I'm bleeding okay Soldier [Music] on there it is H uh need to extract the wires somehow I don't need to cut the wires can just unclip the connector here right yes and now pull through the wire Boom the base is free so I need to knock this out so that's the old sleeve put this on the side and now we can focus on this part here and now you can clearly see the pin that's causing the issues behind the pin there's a spring and it should pop out so you can stop the mirror but this one is solidly stuck rust loser man that thing is stuck see a magnet it will not come out with a magnet this is completely stuck there's no way you will be able to do this without taking it apart okay I need to see if I can remove this plastic should be hiding gears there okay that's the guts of it wait a minute wait a minute there's a hole on this side yep and it still won't come out there it is so there's a hole on this side so you can push out the pin and it's still very much stuck so there's no way you will be able to get this out with just sprinting WD40 on it no way there it is it is finally out so this spin was solidly seized in there okay now we need to clean all of this brake cleaner yeah there's there's corrosion on this pin that's why it's stuck grab a fine Scotch bright and polish the pin if fine Scotch p is not working out so I'm stepping up to a bit more aggressive one just like that the pin is now clean and now we need to clean the hole just jab in there with the screwdriver and now with that clean pop in the spring and the pin and make sure that it's moving freely which it is brilliant so pop it out on Project Ry I used silicone grease here to make sure it's lubed up but come to think of it that probably wasn't the smartest idea because grease will attract dirt we're going to use this PTFE spray a dry lubricant sprits a bit of that in the hole and on the pin and I'll pop it in and then a bit of silicone grease for the gears here they have a cover so un likely to have dirt in here now you can reinstall the cover plug in the connector for the motor and then reinstall the motor I clean this bit here now you can pop it in now you're going to polish the mirror base that's better this hollow threaded bolt it's m12x 50 54 mm it's readily available on eBay so this is going to replace that sleeve that we destroyed so it goes in there then we're going to put the wing on and use a nut to secure it the spring and a wrong nut it's different thread than the bolt so we're going to cross thread this and that way it's never going to come off put this white washer underneath of the spring commence the cross threading yes measure that's it perfect we have 14 to 15 mm and the wing is now firmly in place and this is a serviceable item now fortunately the connector is too thick to go through the through the bolt so I'm going to have to chop off the connector get the wire through the bolt and then resolder it and that's the connector resolder that had to be done because you can't unpin it okay that's the connector back in place and it's just a matter of reassembly let's quickly test it and see if it works Boom the repair is successful I've done this repair with a hollow bolt with lots of mirrors now and it always works perfectly test both of them are working brilliant and it only cost me a bit of time and my thumb the clutch pedal I complained in the previous video that the clutch pedal on this car sucks and this is by far the worst clutch pedal I ever felt in a BMW let me explain why first of all the clutch pedal it's very light it takes no effort to press it which you might think is good but it's not because this makes the clutch pedal very vague there is no feedback from the clutch pedal so when you're trying to shift quickly you can't really tell what the clutch is doing because also the pedal feel changes when you press it about there then the spring kicks in hence that springy feel in the in the pedal so when you're trying to shift quickly it has this popup effect which you probably can't see on camera but you can feel it when you press the clutch like I press it in let go there's that feel from the pedal the second issue is there is a ton of dead travel on the top like this is where when the clutch actually starts to engage so you can see that the pedal is quite High compared to the brake pedal and then there's a ton of De travel on the bottom so you press it all the way in then you let go and this is where the clutch starts to engage so it's just not good for quick shifting it makes it really unpleasant to drive so I did a bit of Googling and it turns out I'm not the only one that thinks that the clutch pedal on this car sucks and one very popular mod that people do is they remove the stupid spring behind a clutch pedal and this improves the pedal feel by a lot so here's the clutch and there's the vicious spring there's one spring on the outside and another one on the inside so when you press in the clutch first that outer spring is giving you feedback and then when you press it further the second one kicks in in so the feedback from the pedal is completely different it changes as you press the pedal and the second spring is I believe what's causing that popup feel in the pedal and well the entire assembly there it's causing this springy feel in the pedal so I actually remove this spring completely which is what most people do and my God you have to do that if you have a e92 or E90 M3 even the normal E90 just remove that stupid thing without that spring the clutch pedal is near perfect the feedback is re linear it's not too light it's just perfect it feels great it's much easier to shift so that's bye-bye the second issue that we need to address is obviously the height of the pedal and then the dead travel in the pedal and also the dead travel in the bottom the bottom one that's easy you can just put a clutch stop here this one well let me show you what we have so I put the spring in just temporarily so I can demonstrate this but let me let me remove it real quickly so remove the devil so you have two pins two clips just pull that out and remove this garbage and this is how it looks like so two Springs I believe pre- LCI only has one spring they actually made the clutch pedal worse than the LCI and I checked on project Raleigh it too has this stupid clutch setup but only one which I removed and again totally improved clutch pedal feel I love it so on project Raleigh I'm also running the clutch without this with this stupid thing so just trash it get rid of it I bought this from the states the ultimate clutch pedal this is an all aluminium short throw clutch pedal for the one series and three series does not work on the Five series it's completely different it comes with brass bushings here and a clutch stop so now we're going to pop it in and see how it feels it also comes with instructions how to install it to remove the clutch pedal obviously you got to remove the spring there's another one on the top that you need to uncp then there's a pin for the master cylinder here that we need to pull out and then a clip uh right over there and then this entire thing is going to come [Music] out push the pen out come on oh well something popped yes I think I'm going to get safety googlers now okay and remove the spring the spring is out success well there you have it a direct comparison this is how the stock clutch pedal sits it's so much higher than the UCP this thing sucks this boom done for the clutch stop just take out a little plug here and then pop it in there you can also put it in a carpet here but the carpet is really thin here so you're going to be hitting the firewall over there so here I think it's better so this is going to take care of the Dead travel that we have on the bottom okay let's see how it feels oh man that's the stuff the pedal travel is so much shorter it feels like my E39 M5 now look at that that is a perfect amount of travel beautiful very happy with that I'm going to give you more feedback once I actually drive the car now we going to replace the fuel pump and the fuel filter ooh a Euro nice can buy one rod bearing a repair manual calls this a filler element lift the bottom piece out oh wasn't so bad now this one here oh just connect the connectors all right now I'm going to break out the vacuum cleaner so we don't get crap in the fuel tank now you're going to disconnect the lines just the press in apparently so I'm going to Mark the position of this ring here there we go I have clean gloves I'm going to have to reach in the fuel tank and disconnect a line over there and there's one here right on the top and it seems it won't come out without this connecting that first popped finally now I need to disconnect these connectors here now I can pull out this section this is like the worst pump to replace ever so now another clip this goes across the fuel tank to the fuel filter okay that's one part of it out and now the fuel pump is finally out what a mess man so this clip here you need to press inwards and yep the hose will pop off pop out remove this locking ring as well so this fuel pressure with the fuel regulator a line goes across the hump of the tank and then it plugs into the fuel pump over there so you got to pull all of that out I've done this in Project Cowley and it's a bit of a fuff and on that car it was much easier because it's a four-door and here I have not a lot of space to work with just pull it out yeah there we go all right fuel tank is really clean so this is the fuel pump the strainer is here in this bowl and it looks a bit worn out and this is the fuel filter with the fuel pressure regulator and you have to sneak this over the hump in the fuel tank and then this connects to this here to the fuel pump so here's a brand new original fuel pump and brand new original fuel filter this is only available from the dealer and it's expensive and of course new gaskets which they kindly Supply with this stuff so first remove the old gasket so brand new Gringo first feed the line I don't know maybe maybe just maybe it's a cross this is a shorter fuel tank than on the M5 yes it's across like Lacross that really wasn't that bad at all this needs to go in so there's a specific slot for the like that okay that's good I had to hit the pause on the fuel pump because I ordered the wrong one turns out there are two versions The uspc and the eurospec one the US speec has two connections here which is what we have on the car this car is us speec I ordered the eurospec which only has one so I simply replaced the cap the rest of the pump is exactly the same I also got new locking rings and finally a proper tool to do this stuff and not hammer on this like an ape a new one get that in that clipped in now the line from the fuel filter got to hear that click pop in the fuel cap so there's actually a notch in the in the lock screw cap that we need to line up with the notch on the fuel tank nice so that's the notch lined up it's here connect the connectors and that's it now we're going to refurbish the headlights the covers are very pitted so I want to replace them and refresh them and the light output it's not that great and I love driving at night and for driving at night I need a good set of headlights so we are going to upgrade the projectors at the same time to remove the headlights we need to remove the bumper man the way the salt is attacking this screws here is insane these are all brand new two 8 mil screws holding the bumper in clip the line for the washers is that it are you free there it is and the headlight is out there's one more screw here and then we can get rid of this plastic shroud that's the headlight finally free these are the new projectors lz7 that I got from sweet lip actually the same projectors I used in Project X5 if you remember and these are about the best projectors I ever put in headlights and I've done many sets of headlights they are just fantastic the light output is phenomenal so I'm really excited to put these in the M3 headlights same as with the X5 these are adaptive headlights which means they swivel as you turn the steering wheel so here are the supply brackets and a lot of trimming is going to be needed to get them to fit just finish messing with the left one and the procedure is pretty much identical to the X5 as far as the projector installation goes but these headlights are sealed with butle which means they're much easier to open unlike the Perma seala headlights so first we're going to clean the headlight allpurpose cleaner from gon okay that's nice and clean now we need to remove the cover there's one screw here that we need to remove first so lift this up remove the turn signal bulb to remove the cover you can either pop this in the oven for about 10 minutes that'll soften up the be and then you can start prying off the cover I'm going to use a heat gun that's my preferred method go all around make the be nice and soft tacky and then start prying this thing open you got to be careful here cuz everything is plasticky and it breaks easily so don't pry too hard just lots of [Applause] heat [Applause] good old be all right put this on the side for now remove this cover here the previous owner installed quality Angel ey bulbs and I'm going to leave that remove this cover here remove the bulb unplug some wires here this is for the Bison function this one here is for the Adaptive function let's connect this wire here unscrew the screw and remove the ground now we need to remove the Shroud here got a few screws around carefully pull that out put this on the side now this shroud here and careful don't touch this with your greasy fingers it's very easy to damage and remove the Chrome coating so unclip the line here remove it two screws here a wire for the Adaptive function here press in the tabs on this white plastic start pulling out the entire thing like that then uncp it here and the whole thing is going to come out so this is the tinger m first we need to remove the motor for the Adaptive function two screws now we need to pry up this plastic nice and now you can see how the Adaptive function works this is how the projector moves when you drive and turn the steering wheel driven by that little motor here now I need to loosen these 8 mil nuts for them and remove the projector so this one you can just pull up and that's the crappy old projector actually the surface inside it's totally fine it's not burned but this is a very very old projector developed in the '90s by Bosch remove this bottom bracket and be careful with this clip here it'll actually shoot out and earlier I spent 13 days looking for it so lift that up also remove this bracket here on the side this is the supply bracket and first we can mount it to the brackets of the Adaptive housing and now we can pop this in and we can see where we need to do the first round of grinding cuz remember this needs to move freely in there and right now it doesn't so I'm going to take a marker just Mark wherever I need to trim the bracket and once I'm done trimming we can test fit it again so I'm going to fire up the Dremel and start trimming you get the idea I'm going to do it over there in the corner so I don't make a lot of mess on the table the first round of trimming is done this can now move freely in the bracket now I'm going to shorten the screws then Mount the projector and then more trimming is needed so that the projector can move freely inside of this assembly so Mount the bracket to the projector which Supply screws so first we need to trim down this bracket here just the edges [Music] here here's how that looks and now it clears the projector put it in and now I can start trimming the bracket further okay I'm going to continue trimming and then I'll update you once it's done cuz this is rather boring the trimming has been completed so I trimmed all around to make sure that the projector can move freely inside of this bracket had to trim this here as well it's pretty much identical to what I did on the X5 so now I need to remove this bracket and then expand the holes so we can rotate the projector very important that way we can align the cut off of the projectors and make sure that they are parallel with each other so 5 1/2 mil drill and we are going to slowly expand the [Music] holes beautiful now lots of compressed there to blow out all of the metal shavings and then we can assemble it with the Hol is expanded now we can rotate the projector and thus adjust the cut off line it has to be perfectly horizontal and align with the other projector don't forget the clip on the bottom then the projector goes in all right and there you have it the new projector moves freely in the Adaptive function thingy bracket so now we need to put it back in the headlight and test it first we need to solder in the connector for the Bon function so this is the stock one just need to chop it off and then solder in this one the motor the bulb and now we can put it back in so connect all of the connectors that's the projector in and now off to the car to test it do we have a working projector we do two of them and the Bon is fully functional as well right now I'm going to put back the Shroud bolt in the headlight and then we're going going to go outside and check if the projectors are aligned and if we need to further tweak them okay I don't know how much you can see here but they do need tweaking they're not aligned the left one needs to go a bit that way and the right one a bit that way and then they're going to be perfectly aligned and parallel and here we are the projectors are now perfectly aligned as you can see the cut off line it looks beautiful this is the trickiest bit because if you get this r wrong and you assemble the headlights you have to take them apart again to you know make sure they're aligned because if they're not aligned it's just going to look ugly and it's not going to perform as good and now we can reassemble the headlights first I'm going to remove old be so going to use a heat gun heat it up and remove as much as I can doesn't have to be perfectly clean but just majority of needs to be removed so we can use fresh stuff that's the old stuff removed blow out the housing with compressed air clean the lens now I need to remove this trim and transfer it over on the new cover here's a brand new one unfortunately original or OEM headlight covers are not available for these headlights so I went with aftermarket eBay ones I don't like polishing old covers as they will never look like brand new ones and I've used aftermarket covers in the past with good results like on the X5 but here I ran into problems that cost me time and nerves as I later discovered that these crappy covers are effective and not made properly you can see that once I put the cover over the projector the cut off line gets distorted this yellow spot appears and the light output becomes dollar I had to trash these covers and thankfully David from sweet lip had a pair of of new original Al headlights lying around so he removed the covers and sent them to me so I could finish this project big props to him and if you end up using aftermarket covers as sometimes there is no auto option be sure to test them before closing the headlights I know I will time to start laying down fresh be have a bit of water here so it doesn't stick to my gloves so okay now I'm going to heat up the beaule really really good and then push the new cover on okay that'll do it yes good man good the clips need to clip in there's one now we can start screw here and boom the cover is on look at that brand spanking new better than brand new actually cuz the projectors are far superior new bulbs all around so we have Chrome or silver turn signal bulbs this very expensive by the way awesome nightbreaker bulbs then brand new H3 bulb good then have a brand new cover here comes with a brand new gasket just need to transfer over this trim here and lastly this sweater stripping piece that goes on top here done time to test everything high beams yes the other one success these are the Chrome kidney grills that I put in the previous episode and this is incorrect for this car the pre-lci models had complete kidney grills the LCI models which is this car had Chrome surroundings and black inserts so we're going to change them for the right ones there we go don't scratch the headlight I just spent an hour and a half lining up all of the gaps between the bumper and the hood around the headlights and I got this Gap pretty good here it was pretty massive before and that's because this bumper is sagging so when I push it up it takes up that Gap almost all the way uh that being said this bumper needs to be replaced it's us spec it's been replaced it's been repaired before so that needs to be done but around the headlights everything looks good like the line here the bottom and then this one as well and then this here is nice and flush with the fender as well so I'm quite happy with this here we go correct kidney grills the difference in light output is frankly astonishing I'm using exactly the same settings on on the camera so I can show you a true before and after you can clearly see how much more light the new projectors are emitting and how brighter the hotspot is you also get a beautiful sharp cutof off line if you love driving at night I can't recommend this upgrade enough it's one of my favorite mods on any car this window Rubber seal is perished so we're going to replace it here's the new one so start it in the corner first and then start feeding it into the channel nicely done and now brand new original tailights we are going to protect them with ceramic coating from Geon nice one connector so the reason why I'm replacing these is they're us spec and they are very pitted and scratched all over the place especially the inner ones and this left one has a massive scratch and I love love these tailights and I want to have them brand new you know the drill new on going in then the inner ones there we go while we are here we can do the trunk shocks these are Rusty and weak Oe stabilus right got to do the same on the front look at these gorgeous Daylights one of the main reasons why I love the shape of this car and the design beautiful fog lights yep brakes yeah I can see that we have that as well and reverse lights the M3 badge is a bit wed so any one is in order Mark its position dental floss plastic blade a bit of spit here's the new badge ah beautiful that looks great next the emblem it too is pretty weathered oh man what the come on let go ow hit me hit myself in the face Jesus brand new grads brand new emblem this unsightly Dent here is the biggest imperfection on the outside of the car and I have my PDR guy here just removed the fender liner and he's going to try and straighten it out as much as possible it's not going to be possible to do it like 100% because this is a very sharp dent and also it removed paint so if you can get it as flat as possible then I can touch it up and it's going to be about well 90% better hopefully right now it's it's pretty agly as you can see so he's pushing the dent out from the inside when the dent is this sharp you can't do it with just glue and pulling you have to press the metal from the back and just like that the dent is gone what you see now that is just a scratched surface where the paint is missing but as far as the dent goes it is completely gone this can be further improved with wet sanding and polishing but this car is going to go to gon for a complete detail eventually so I'm going to let Eve do that I think he can make this scratch almost completely disappear but I think at least 80% better than what it is right now thankfully it didn't go down to the bare metal hence why I didn't start rusting the car was sitting outside for like 2 years so I'm not going to touch it up right now because that's just going to make it more pronounced but as far as the dent goes this looks a lot better and now the blueberry muffin on the top of the cake after much heated debate between myself and the board members I decided to go with brand spanking new original competition Wheels style m359 if I'm not mistaken here they are I bought them from Daniel from out the house milkus from Dresden the old ones I dropped them off to be ref finished to Hyper Silver and they are going to be done in a few weeks and then I'm going to be selling them but for project Frankfurt I decided to go with brand new wheels don't cut too deep yes Hyper Silver baby look at that brand new without a scratch okay so I have tires inside and I'm going to take this to the tire shop so they can scratch them and install the tires in the process so I'll catch you in a bit but man do they look beautiful the wheels are back and they survived they didn't play scratch Lottery with them which is Fantastico the tires we have Continental sport 59 nope it's seven now we need to protect the wheels for that we have Geon Rim ceramic coating and also brand new wheel caps line it up with the m emblem beautiful yeah lastly the tire dressing from Gian and that's one done three to go say adios to the winter wheels and say bonjour to the summer [Music] Wheels [Music] [Music] [Music] oh [Music] hey that car looks familiar Nico is behind the wheel we are at infinitas in gmach and project Frankfurt is about to go on the lie detector time to see how much power it is newly built engine mies M look at them projectors this is a very very good light detector and I'm also happy to announce that I connected two great companies liquid moly and infinitas they just made a really nice partnership so they're going to be working together so what horsep power numbers do you normally see on this Dyno with the stock E90 M3 normally around about 390 380 so e92 M3 on a dyo these cars from the factory they're supposed to have 420 PS but they're famous for delivering less than what the factory said it typically almost always starts with three and that number is usually around 390 horsepower I just asked Nico and he told me that he only had one car out of like 100 that made more than 400 horsepower so with this particular build we have OEM plus engine let's call it that we have high compression forged Mal Motorsport Pistons uh the compression is 12.2 to1 the stock is 12.0 to1 so in reality it won't make that much of a difference when it comes to Performance we do have Shri cams we also have cylinder heads from Top Mar Motorworks they ported the exhaust side which wasn't ported from the factory and they also did a multi-angle vow job on top of that we have one more mod so I'm expecting definitely more power than stock but the factory said more than 420 how much I'm not sure there's a base tune on the car right now so we're going to do the first run with that and then go from there see if he needs further fine-tuning and whatnot the car does run really healthy we have about 2,300 400 km since the engine rebuil can start yeah on the first run with the base tune we got 415 PS and 389 newm of torque which is already better than stock and then Max from infinitas started tuning the [Music] car this Dino calculates and shows crank horsepower they noted that the engine was breeding in the air extremely well and they could easily add more fuel to the mixture this is due to sh cams and the phenomenal work the top Mar did with the heads they are indeed working like crazy just like lucash said I think he also raised the RPM line to 8,800 now and uh he says it's safe to do that even on a stock engine stock heads that is drive train but this engine remember has shrick cams plus Shri valve springs and titanium retainers so we are definitely safe to go higher than stock stock is 8,400 I believe woo 438 nice and 405 newm of torque that's that's more like it better huh much better much better but it's only the start here we go 14th Dino Run and we have 442 horsepower 417 newm of torque beautiful absolutely beautiful this dip here that you see here between four and five that's shrick cams they deliver more high-end top end power as you can see from around 5 5 and 1/2 it starts picking up but this power delivery here this is 8,800 RPM and it's pulling all the way to the top so here's a direct comparison to a completely stock e92 M3 that was on this Dyno and that one made around 390 horsepower and less than 400 NM of torque so the black line is the stock car the red line is Project Frankfurt quite a big difference would you agree and you can see that even the stock one has this slight dip here it's just not as pronounced because of the uh Shan that we have here the top end power is just beautiful absolutely beautiful here keep in mind that you can go to 10 different dinos and you will get 10 different results the results can vary depending on the dyo brand dyo operator Etc this is a very accurate Dyno that infinitas uses for testing for OE Brands and Corrections are done according to eec so the fact that project Frankfurt put down 50 to 60 ponies more than what S65 typically put down is an amazing result and achievement quite happy with everything yeah quite happy with everything the car is very very healthy the engine is making a lot more power in stock and huge huge thank you to Nico and infinitas as you can see they don't just sell superchargers here you can come here for tuning as well and we did 14 Dino rounds I think yeah 14 that's what it says 14 14 we spent what time is it I came here at 12: it's 5:40 now so so proper tuning takes time need a little bit time needs a little bit time this is the most powered than any N3 made on this Dino right yeah nice really really nice thank you so much again you're welcome wow what a machine what an engine in the previous episode we couldn't go wide open throttle because the engine was still in the brakin phase but in this one we can we've done nearly 3,000 km since the engine rebuild and as you saw on the dyno the engine is performing beautifully and now you're going to go and stretch its legs on the Autobon so the hard cut rev limiter is at 8,800 r PM but right after 8,500 RPM the throttle bodies are closing and it's not making more power than that so 8,500 is the RPM line on this engine stock it's 8,400 there's the sign Bunch it the way it pulls in higher RPMs is just sensational unbelievable there's quite a lot of wind noise from the seals on the glass I got to look into that but the way this engine feels it's it's a race engine the way it revs the way it goes it's spectacular healing tone out super easy 270 in a curve feels fantastic it feels faster than E39 M5 for sure E60 is faster has more power but man what a sensational car R matching in this car is absolutely beautiful it's glorious it is glorious healing to as well [Music] [Applause] let's talk about the mods and upgrades that I've done to this car bin B6 temptronic shocks by vve Automotive the ride is Sublime because in Comfort it's actually comfortable it's more comfortable than B6 shars on the E60 and5 and I love that because on the E60 I always thought it could be a tiny bit more comfortable in the comfort mode here it's just perfect and right now I have it in the sport setting which is the middle one and it is fantastic on the Autobon and attacking the back roads and then you have the Sport Plus setting which is going to be great for the nurur green so I talked to Imran about this and I gave him my feedback and I told him that suspension is phenomenal because besides the Fantastic cry it also looks good there's no that stupid rake so Imran is going to work now to develop the same set of shocks for the E60 M5 platform and I'm really really excited about that the shifter Rogue engineering shifter it's the same feel as on the E46 it is the best feeling shifter I ever tried in any BMW it is so satisfying to change gears because it's short it's precise there's no slop whatsoever it's just beautiful click click action so I highly recommend it the ultimate clutch pedal probably the best clutch pedal I ever felt in a BMW so a must mod on any E90 and one series as well my E39 M5 has a perfect clutch pedal as well cuz I have a different clutch stop on the back but this is just beautifully linear it just feels really good when you press it because it's short so you can really quickly change gears and rev matching heel and toe super easy which wasn't the case before [Music] [Music] [Applause] the suspension as well it is sharper than my toenail it feels really good I still need to do the wheel alignment I have an issue with that I can't find a good wheel alignment shop in the Frankfurt area it just doesn't exist so right now even with the not properly aligned car the suspension feels great and once it's aligned it's going to be even [Music] better God damn it feels good we must have forget about the brakes I had several hard stops on the autobound at high speeded and the brakes are really they really Inspire confidence they bite really really well the brake pedal feels nice and linear you can really get into it it's not like that it bites really hard all of the sudden and then it changes it's just really nice linear feeling and the driver discs they're not shaking they're not vibrating anything I mean you can really punish the brakes and they're going to hold up so I'm really looking forward to trying this car on the nurur ring once they reopen again it's going to be really really fun listen I know that the DCT is much quicker and it's well suited to this car but you can't heal and to and R match with your feet and your hands in automatic but you can't with a manual and and that's why I will always pick a manual car [Music] there you go the brakes feel Splendid what welcome everyone to the race car for the road so as far as the multimedia goes in this car this has the later cic CCC something I I don't know I don't care uh it has the newer stuff than the E60 M5 and I'm probably the only person in the world that actually prefers the older system this one has a far better display but everything else I prefer on the E60 because it has less buttons here it's cleaner the knob it's nicer it's aluminium in the p60 and just you know commanding the radio it's much nicer than here here I have to turn then press and it doesn't work that well the Bluetooth it's garbage I can't use it in this car for some reason it works for about 5 minutes and then it completely cuts off and it gives me a very annoying high pitched noise while doing that and then it disconnects and then I can connect again for another 5 to 10 minutes then it plays music for another 10 minutes and then it disconnects again so I need to look look into the Bluetooth module and see what's going on there but you know all these sub menus and stuff don't need any of that I just need to play the radio stream Bluetooth that's it nothing else not interested in Tech right it's so damn pretty I can't stop staring at it e92 M3 my dream car and it didn't disappoint it's actually better than what I thought it would be this pretty much concludes project Frankfurt it's back on the road the engine it's a masterpiece and we get to use all of its screaming 8500 Roars and it's making more power than it did from the factory it looks well if this car was a lady this video would have been uploaded to a different platform anyway as you all know project car they're never done there's always something to be done but for me once it's registered it's back on the road and I get to use the car I call it done anything I do beyond that point it's improving the car so there will be a few more episodes here and there we need to repaint the front bumper the side skirts the rear bumper they're slightly different color and then the exterior needs to be detailed besides that we're going to overhaul the rear end at some point but as it sits right now I just want to enjoy the car as much as I can I love driving it and you know I can focus on other projects that are not on the road a huge thank you is in order for following the channel for watching the videos and leaving beautiful comments on every single one of them and helping me obtain my dream car and not only that but to fix it to the point where it's better than what it was when it was brand new it rides better and it's faster I mean what more can one want and we kept stock on the outside because you shouldn't mess with this design you don't you don't touch it it's far too beautiful so thank you to all of you and to my patreons as well the next episode is going to be on the E31 or project nut a BMW it needs an engine so it should be a fun one thank you so much for watching I really do hope that you enjoy this project series and I'll see you in the next one I'm going to sit on my stallion here and just you know stare at it for a bit

Channel: M539 Restorations

Views: 525,947

Keywords: e31, bmw, 850i, 850ci, restoration, revival, barn find, e39, e38, m5, 740i, 840i, 840ci, 850csi, csi, 8er, 8 series, classic cars, bimmer, 540i, v12, 535i, 750, e46, m3, m70, road trip, m73, budget, first start, car project, b7, b8, alpina, restore it, e34, e32, e24, hoovie, tavarish, doug demuro, vice grip garage, car throttle, samcrac, e60, s85, v10, challenge, m54, 3er, chrisfix, detailing, disaster interior, detailing geek, top gear, cartrek, Abandoned, dealership, alfa romeo, mclaren, rebuild, matt armstrong

Id: 3s71WYgyYjo

Length: 73min 52sec (4432 seconds)

Published: Fri Mar 01 2024