Building a BMW S65 V8 From Scratch - BMW E92 M3 - Project Frankfurt: PT6

coming up we build an engine sized puzzle squishy sounds and a bit of stretching gentlemen and three ladies that are watching welcome to project Frankfurt the e92 M3 a complete engine rebuild don't ask me how long it took to arrange this laying in front of you on this giant carbon fiber towel is the entirety of one of the most amazing Creations spawned by BMW Motorsport division in the mid 2000s the naturally aspirated 8400 screaming RPMs out of this 4 L V8 engine code named S65 b40 and in this video we are going to assemble it completely bolt by bolt [Music] together [Music] okay can one of the board members help me lift this please and now you're getting up focus on the cocaine it's fine I think mzy would love this blanket we are kicking off with piston oil spraying nozzles AKA piston squirters I've thoroughly cleaned the block once again and used compresser to blow out all of the oil passages I'm applying a little bit of medium thread Locker on the screws these are M5 8.8 grade screws and the torque for them is 6 newm the following step is to reinstall the clean crankshaft then we have the bed plate and main bearing bolts TI the repair manual specifically says not to use brand new bolts presumably because these have been stretched by the robot in the factory so you don't have to do it again for the main bearings we're going with King race bearings this is their pmax Black Series so first we're going to install everything dry use the plastic gauge to check the clearance disassemble everything get the reading and if everything is okay then we can do the final installation with the assembly Lube cleanliness is of the utmost importance here I made sure that the residence of the main bearings is clean and now we can pop them in there is a notch on the bearing that we need to line up with the cutout in the block and just push it in and make sure it's seated correctly and now we can gingerly pop the crankshaft in very carefully and now the bed plate the bed plate here we can use a very fine scotch and a bit of brake cleaner to clean the seating position of the bearings remove the old bearing material clean it well now discard the gloves make sure to push the bearing all the way in now we going to apply a bit of silicone spray on the bearings that way the plastic GAE doesn't stick to it if you put it in dry it's going to be a bit difficult to remove the plastic gauge after and not damage the coating on the bearings and this won't affect the measurement at all get the plastic GAE in place okay that's the plastic age in place careful with the bed plate it's heavy the repair manual says that the threads must be clean and oiled so I'm going to use fogging oil for men first the fitting M9 screw in position number one and position number two the torque spec is 8 NM and now we can pop in the rest of them and now torque the rest of them to 8 newm in 1 to8 sequence and now the M11 main bolts we can use the electric ratchet to slowly drive them in the torque is 30 newm and we going in 1 to 10 sequins I should also mention that I have my hazard torque wrenches recalibrated by Hazard recently and they're all within spec now we need to apply a paint mark on the M1 bolts and now we're going to torque them 130° in 1 to 10 sequence and now the M9 fitting screws are torqued to 15 newm again we need to apply a straight line on the bolts these bolts are now also torqued 130° and now the smaller main bearing bolts also lubed up with oil and now we have four bolts here these are middle length and two short ones in the front drive them in this is T45 star them by hand always first the torque for these bolts is 5 NM and then 90° angle but there is no specific torque sequence in the repair manual so I'm just going to start from inside to out and now 90° angle okay smaller ones will torque to 5 NM and then 60° angle beautiful and then the two front ones are torqued to 15 newm and that's it that's the entire procedure now we need to release all of the screws in a specific sequence so we're starting with the M9 fitting screws from 1 to 10 10 and now the M11 bolts also from 1 to 10 they all look exactly the same which is good the bearing clearance should be from 0.035 to 0.058 mm I've explained this in the past the plastic gauge is not going to give us a precise measurement but it will tell us if we are within spec so 0.038 is wider and 0.050 is narrower which means that we are somewhere between those two specs and that we are well within spec because the rest of them are exactly the same and we are safe to proceed and use King Grace bearings quite happy with that to remove the plastic gauge use brake cleaner and a clean carbon fiber towel remove the crankshaft now I need to make sure that the ceiling surface and this channel is perfectly clean I already cleaned it but I'm going to do it once more for good measure brand new gasket assembly lube and a clean finger crankshaft going back in for the final time can see that it spins say on a more traditional engine we would have individual main bearing cabs here and then a standard metal / rubber gasket will come around to seal the upper oil pan but this is bed plate design which is essentially One Piece Block that's chopped in the factory so we have the block and the bed plate that comes on the top this means that there is no standard gasket that goes around instead we first need to install the bed plate torque it down fully then install the front and rear crank seals and then inject special sealant SL glute thingy from Loctite through these ports on the sides and that's what's going to fill this channel here and create a permanent seal between the bed plate and the blck okay good the bed plate we need to make sure this is Thoroughly clean otherwise it will not seal correctly and if it doesn't seal you need to remove the engine out of the car and repeat this entire process you only get one shot at this the exact same installation process as before for first fitting M9 screws in position one and two make sure you're using a clean socket I use this thing for everything so it's likely full of sand dirt and cheese so clean it otherwise you can contaminate the engine and transfer that dirt from the socket to this Bolt draw a line here you can see the lines that I made earlier and that they match and that everything is tored correctly to spec and now the crankshaft must turn smoothly without any resistance which it does and that's the crankshaft reinstallation done next up the front and rear main seal the gear for the oil pump drive and the timing chain kit this is the kit that was sent to me by IIs or Evis and this is the OE part in other words the exact same part you get when you buy directly from the dealer and if you don't believe me here's a direct comparison between the old original part that came out of this engine and the new one you can see that it says on there e so no difference whatsoever except this is a lot cheaper when you buy it from them versus the dealer they have timing chain kits for various engines like n62 m73 and so on link is in the description so feel free to check them out first the timing chains then the gear wheel there's a pin that you need to line up with a hole in the crank there it is as you would imagine there is a special tool tool to install the seal which you've guessed it I don't have so we're going to improvise be very careful here the seal is very sensitive so first I'm going to put it from the back side of the intermediate piece slide it on like that and I'll go to SmackDown it's starting to go in all right the key is to tap this evenly can use this long threaded rod and then put this cup here and slowly drive it in should work just like the original tool what is that it's Alpena what do you want the B10 is complaining for some reason okay shush the Alpena so this one is going to serve as a guide yeah so this seal needs to sit flush with the inner lip not the outer one now we can install this screw fully this is an M6 screw and the torque pack is 10 mm now I can measure all around and make sure the seal is see it properly beautiful and that's the front crank seal installed to do the rear main seal I need to take the engine off the stand which is tricky at this point because this is quite heavy let's see how we going to do that ideally I want to put it on the table but I don't know if I can all right I'm going to break my back and you watch oh my God that is quite heavy dude okay I put the block on the table be very careful not to damage the seal then I mention that you're supposed to have a special tool to install this in case it wasn't obvious I'm going to grab the old seal and use that so this one needs to sit flush with the inner lip as well that's the seal wonderfully installed have to put the P bearing here a bit later for the manual gear box while we are here we can do the screw plug for the main oil Gallery the plug with a brand new washer okay this is the sealing compound for the bed plate you can see it says fangi sealant this is the primer this is the tool used to press in the sealant into the bed plate and that's the part number for it injection ports and this is the injection nozzle that comes with the kit it's way too thin throw it away and get something like this this is a bit wider it friend sent me this but you can easily get this on eBay or Amazon now we need to tap in the injection Port once we start injecting the sealant and the channels are full it'll start oozing out through these two vent holes here same on the back for the rear main seal then we need to use the primer which is going to harden the sealant because this particular sealant is anerobic which means it cures in absence of air so that means we need to seal it here here on the back and the injection ports and then it's going to cure with in the channel per locktite instructions we are going to apply a bit of primer now here and then on the back as well never done this before so let's see how it goes all right it's coming out okay so let's start injecting so you got to do slowly nope this is just coming out on the outside so I'm going to ditch this and try without the injection nozzle oh it's coming out here so stop and let's get the primer o it's starting to come out on the back as well so I'm going to start injecting a little bit more just a tiny bit more okay it's coming out on the back as well apply primer there as well this better Works apply it on the ejection boort here now we got to do the other side and hope that I have enough sealant left in the tube so yeah don't use the injection nozzles just put this directly onto the injection port and start injecting oh there it is it's coming out on the front how about the back and the back as well fantastic you see it oozing out primer and that's done this wasn't too bad says he hoping this actually worked because if it didn't I'm going to have to take this engine apart again moving on with the bottom end we have Mal Motorsport higher compression forged pistons that come with new wrist bins piston rings and cir Clips then stock connecting rods there's nothing wrong with them and this engine is going to remain na naturally aspirated and then for the rod brings we have be bearings and airp Rod bolts be bearings are in my opinion the best rod bearings you can get for the S65 and s85 engines that's what I have in project Raleigh my E60 M5 for the last 30,000 km number one they're made by cite Mal which is the same manufacturer that makes original rod bearings so you know that the quality is on point number two and this is the most important part they're made to a custom be bearing specification and they offer more clearance compared to the stock ones that offer too little clearance which is leading to premature bearing wear and eventually to an engine failure one of the reasons why these engines suffer from rod bearing failures number three each bearing is individually measured by hand by be bearings and then sorted lower and top the only bearings on the market that are manually sorted like that and if you're just doing the rod bearing service and the crank is in good condition you didn't even have to plastic gauged them you can just plop them in and torque the rod bolts to spec and number four this is their latest version version two that's part of the new F bearing design that now has silver oxide coating and can handle 30% more load than before we're going to start by prepping the connecting rods these are fracture split connecting rods and each connecting rod and the rod cap are stamped on the side because they're unique you can't mix and match here so make sure to pay attention to that grab a fine Scotch Sprite bit of braake cleaner and clean the bearing sitting surface this will remove all the bearing material and it's important to do this now I'm going to go rinse this out with brake cleaner and blow it out with compressed there and repeat this with the rest of them before we proceed it's important to learn how cylinders are numbered and which bank is which looking from the front of the engine the left side that's bank one and this is Bank two cylinders 1 to 4 cylinders 5 to 8 the orientation of how the Pistons and connecting rods are installed and connected is very important the Pistons have an arrow on them and this Arrow points towards the front of the engine I put an additional one so it's easier to see this is Bank two bank one and the connecting rods on Bank two these two notches here need to point up and the Piston connects like that with the wrist pin and on bank one those two notches are on the back and the Piston connects like that the installation of the circlip for the wrist pin is a bit tricky if you don't have the correct tools and I don't so I'm going to use this plastic wedge and my fingers and plop it in so basically you want to start one end in the groove and then just keep pushing the cir clip and it is also very important to wear eye protection here because if this thing pops out it will take your eye out there it is and if you make a scratch here it does not matter this is dry phosphate film and it's just for the first start up of the car so don't worry about that I just looked up Mal motorport instructions regarding this clean the wrist bin lube it up the Piston as well and the connecting rod this must slide freely and move freely as well the second circlip there it is just need to repeat this process with the rest of the Pistons and this is how the orientation looks like from this angle Bank One the air goes towards the front of the engine and the two notches are facing towards the rear of the engine Bank two airrow goes towards the front of the engine as well as the two notches now we're going to check the Piston Ring Gap Lube up the top of the cylinder grabb the first piston ring lube it up as well and gently pop it in now grab the piston and push in the Piston Ring evenly 25 mm into the cylinder I made a mark on the Piston here you see here it's sitting flush this this is 0.20 fits easily 0.25 fits as well and 30 does not fit so the Gap is 25 mm and that's we didn't spec take it out now grab the second one the gap for the second one is between 0.40 to 0.60 mm here's 45 fits in easily 50 fits easily 0 55 fits snuggly and then 60 does not fit that's with in Spec as well and don't worry if the Piston Ring leaves marks on the cylinders that's unavoidable when working with Alo seal does not not affect anything the gap for the third piston ring is from 01 to 03 mm but it is a three-piece Oil ring so you can't really measure the Gap anyway that's the process I'm going to continue and check the Piston Ring gap on all of the cylinders I finished checking the Piston Ring Gap and it's all within spec now it's time to install the piston rings onto the Pistons first thing to note there is a top and bottom side to the piston rings you can see it very nicely explained here byal Motorsport the second ring has a DOT here that goes towards the top of the piston and the first ring has some markings here that goes towards the top of the Piston as well and for the third piston ring it's very important to install it correctly like that and not like that the two ends need to touch each other and not overlap lastly the Piston Ring Gap alignment we need to spread out the gaps so that they're 120° from each other the third bottom Oil ring it's a threepiece and the expander that's the bit that sits in the middle the Gap should be pointing that way and then you have the bottom and top uh rail Gap then you have the second ring Gap pointing that way and the first one that way in any case the Gap should not be over the wrist pin and once the engine is up and running the piston rings move they float they don't stay in the same place let's begin first the bottom Oil ring this is the expander which we need to cover in oil and then gently put it in place the Gap is going that way very good then the rail also smear it with oil so this can be the bottom one okay that Gap is going over there can take a thin screwdriver and just move it and then the top rail the Gap sits right about here and then for the second and first ring we are using this special tool to safely open up the ring and slide it over the Piston into the groove little it up again pay attention to the orientation this dot must point up the Gap should point this way and this G should be positioned there and that's the pist Rings installed rinse and repeat with the rest of them make sure piston rings move without any resistance brilliant and that's the piston ring installation done time to install the rod bearings make sure that this is clean and free of oil the lower one goes into the rod cap and the top one goes into the rod same as with the main bearings to line up the notch with the cutout in the cap and then push it in making sure it's sitting flush like that and these Marks here that's from the measuring tool that be bearing is using and nothing to worry about and continue this process with the the rest of them that's the rod bearings done Rod bolts these are B bearings ARP bolts not a standard ARP bolts also made to be bearing specification and this is the Fastener assembly Lube from arp we are applying the Lube on the threads of the bolt and then underneath of the head of the bolt and just going to do the same with the rest of them now throw away the gloves do not transfer this over to the rod brings now I can start planting the Pistons apply more oil on the wrist bin and then of course more oil onto the piston rings and the Piston skirts so make sure once again that the gaps are turned correctly also a bit of [ __ ] Alpha men to seep through absolutely everywhere piston compression tool oil it up as well pop it over and then tighten it now tap it until the skirts are exposed like that and the assembly Loop will come later first we need to check the clearance with plastic gauge what I also like to do and this is just an extra precaution is put masking tape on the corners of the connecting rods here that way we don't risk leaving marks and scratches in the cylinder and that's ready to be installed Loop up the cylinder with clean gloves of course the air on the Piston points towards the front of the engine and we can slowly insert it make sure that the crank is as far away as possible from the cylinder and start tapping it's one in now I need to flip over the block now you can remove the masking tape the crankshaft is clean and now we can carefully pull up the rod be very careful not to scratch the crank that's it and when turning the engine over be very careful where the connecting rod is and in which direction you're turning the engine on the engine stand because if you do it the opposite way the connecting rod can actually smack the crank and that would be extremely bad so either hold it with your hand or make sure you're rotating in the correct direction where the connecting rod cannot move and hit the crank plastic gauge make sure to match the number that's stamped on the cap and the connecting rod in this case it's 831 apply silicon spray on the rod bearing the torque speculation for airp Rod bolts is 68 newm or 50 lb now you can release the bolts that looks identical the nominal rod bearing clearance for the stock rod bearings is 0.381 MM and for the B bearings nominal rod bearing clearance is 0.681 MM and here if we first try 050 no more clearance than that 063 that's pretty much bang on the money definitely not as high as 076 and then this one is exactly the same again we can't get a precise measurement with plastic gauge it'll just tell us that we are pretty much in the ballpark and be bearings is saying 0.068 and here we are getting around 0.063 so that is bang on the money so exactly as be bearings is claiming more clearance than stock which means that more oil can flow around the crankshaft which is especially important with 10 w60 oil which is as thick as it gets now lower the connecting rod so we can apply assembly Lube remove the plastic gauge a very clean finger assembly lube and lube it up we can clean the bearing with a clean carbon fiber towel and some oil bit of filicious oil for men for the crankshaft assembly Lube apply it on the lower bearing as well and again match the numbers on the side round bolts don't use an impact here always start engine bolts by hand for that matter any bolts dump a bit more oil into the cylinders and now we can turn over the retis chicken and it should spin smoothly without any resistance which it does beautiful piston dance the aery chicken is ready look at the Pistons going up and down and and with that the bottom end is assembled let me have a quick breakfast of amateures and then we'll proceed I did plastic gauge all of the raw journals and the clearance is from 0.050 to 0.063 mm so all way in Spec and good to go coolant drain plugs one on each side brand new crush washer before we proceed with the cylinder head first we need to pop in a couple of Parts here here lives a non- return valve on both Banks here's a brand new one I've covered it in oil and then a spacer then we have new dowels here and here two screw plugs here on both Banks here's a brand new one with Loctite applied and these don't have a specific torque they seal with Loctite so just throw them on okay because this Loctite is coming off I'm going to remove this screw plug remove that locktite all the way and apply my own thread sealer applied and copy paste on bank to and here we have a non- return valve for the CCV crank case ventilation which we can also install later but I found the part so we're going to do it now brand you want to make sure to lube up the oring a screw going to put a piece of tape over it and close it off this clip for the wiring harness goes here here we can do this later but why not do it now cuz I already have it brand new timing chain guides I put fresh orings on the bolts here and we also have brand new plugs lubed up orings and this bolt needs to slide through the guide and into the block now I can grab the chain beautiful for this bolt here we're using a speci special tool from the timing tool kit Fish Out The Chain and then the central bolt goes through both of these guides first do it one by one this one here there it is new plugs brand new OE head gaskets clean the surface these are the cylinder heads from the original engine that exploded spectacularly and now have been overhauled completely by topar Motorworks from Poland they have done a tremendous job bringing these heads back to life and their work didn't include only the standard valve job but also a multi-angle valve job and modifying valves to high flow and now exhaust and intake valves have an additional 30° angle they didn't stop there though S65 heads supported intake channels from the factory but exhaust channels aren't they polished the intake channels retaining the original structure and ported the exhaust side here you can see a pretty significant difference in what they managed to achieve with the exhaust ports from the factory these channels are only half machined and normally there should be a smooth transition here but we have over a 1 mimer Peak here and Lucas thinks this might contribute to the famous discusing power of the E90 M3 models and why some make less power than what Factory claimed I'm thrilled with the results and happy to be working with a company that enjoys their work as much as I do and to quote Lucas these heads will work like crazy also I installed shrick upgraded Springs and titanium retainers in preparation for Shri cams see if fuing zip Tite is somehow out of the way think that'll work do the last round of fogging Al for men bank one cylinder head brand new head bolts the torque spec for the head bolts is 40 newm and then 90° angle twice and we are torquing from inside to out in a 1 to 10 sequence fortunately I don't have a lot of metal here where I can put my magnet it's all aluminum kind of bolt down the steel plate here just have a place where to hook my magnet to let's see that will work 90° angle that's the first round done second round done bye-bye cylinders bye-bye and pistons hopefully I don't see you ever again smooth I don't if I mentioned it before but the head bolts are lubed up with oil per the repair manual and they also come brand new slightly coated with oil number one round one done pH then we have two small M6 screws in the front on both sides a bolt for the timing chain guide and another one here we have four check valves in the cylinder heads two per bank here it is with a brand new oring couldn't find a torque Speck for this so just make it snug and then on the sides here hydraulic lifters which I've cleaned and now we're going to dump them into some fresh oil and install them but fun fact I checked with the dealer and these are completely out of stock you can't buy them brand new anymore not sure what's going on and if they're going to restock them but thankfully the old ones are in perfect condition and we are good to reuse them oil fogging oil for men the cam shafts these are the stock cam shafts from the original blown up engine and they're in perfect condition my plan was and it still is to go with shck cams but they're currently out of stock everywhere shrick told me the next production run is in November which is right now so hopefully they arrive soon and we can install them at a later date for now we're going with the stock ones you can't mix and match here every cap and every cam is labeled from the factory you can see here it says A1 E1 one stands for Bank One here it says two bank two a stands stands for outlas in German which is outlet and then e stands for inas Inlet in deuts so as we would say in Germany vamonos first we're going to set the engine 10° before TDC this here is top dead center and this is 10° before top dead center cover the cam in fogging oil for men pop the cam in per the repair manual the loes on cylinder number one and three need to point upwards at an angle like this the locks here need to be locked and point upwards like that more oil now we can get the caps on E1 goes in cylinder number one and eror is pointing towards the front of the engine then E2 slowly do them up in a crisscross pattern with the exhaust cam the loes in cylinder number four need to point up upwards like that a e also 13 newm and it's copy pasted on the other side Bank two intake cam loes in cylinder number six must point up Bank two exhaust cam the lobes in cylinder number five need to point upwards and that's the cam shafts installed time to install the Vanos units and time the engine these are the Vanos units from the donor engine brand new Vanos bolts timing chain tensioners from ivis and upgraded Vanos cups this is the stock plastic cup that goes here and it keeps the spring from popping out but as you would imagine with plastic it cracks especially when it's 15 years old and when this breaks it can wreak havoc in your engine it can get jammed up in the timing chain it can end up in your oil pump then you lose oil pressure and your engine goes boom boom so it's important to upgrade this stuff and we are going with the Emporium stuff I bought this from the states and in my opinion this is the best solution to this problem because this is a steel cap goes here the bolt goes through it and that's it this is never going to fatigue crack or come off in any shape or form most aftermarket Solutions are pretty much the exact same design as this just made from metal but I've seen some horror stories uh where that metal Clips on and then over time it fatigues Lees it deforms and it comes off and it makes an even bigger mess so be careful with what you're using out there a lot of people won't use this option because this means you have to remove these bolts and mess with the timing of the engine so if you have to use the clipon one I recommend to use the Evolve Automotive one because I know that they're using high quality materials it's also important to know that when using these cups you don't use this washer that goes underneath of the bolt because this cup is the same thickness as this washer the engine is still set at 10° before TDC and now we can break out the timing tool now we need to rotate the cam clockwise and then slide the tool on another one here and now the tool for the intake cam and that's the cams locked in place Lube up the inside of the cams intake venos unit note that all four vanice units have an o-ring on the inside which I replaced when I took the engine apart per the repair manual I put a little screw here this is to keep the tension for this gear here cuz there's an internal spring and if you just remove it this is going to spring back and the spines are going to be misaligned now I can remove it because in its place I have the special tool from the timing tool kit aligning these plines and now we can install it so you got to make sure that these plines are 100% aligned per repair manual I lightly coated the threads with oil and it also calls for copper grease underneath of the head of the bolt don't want Copper grease imagine so instead I used ARP Fastener assembly Loop these bolts are counterclockwise thread so to do them up you go left again no washer underneath of the bolt my new timing chain tensioner here's why pretty much everyone opts for a clip-on solution here instead of messing around with these bolts there are a nightmare to torque first as we established there are counterclockwise threads so you need a torque wrench that can torque in reverse and then there's the torque procedure I can't remember this first 10 newm then 20 newm then 80 newm and then 200° angle then you have to loosen it snug it up to 10 newm do the same thing with this one then crank the engine over to TDC and then do that torque sequence again electric ratchet here and now 20 NM and finally only 80 un let's see if I can do a 100° angle first okay that's 100 that's a lot of torque okay ready 200 and I'll loosen it and now you have to torque it to 10 mm and now we can do the same with this one [Music] stretching real good and I'll snug it up to 10 now we can remove this tool here now we need to set the engine at TDC and then do the final torque according to the repair manual this minimizes chain and gear whe play so very gingerly there it is locked okay final torque as we already did 10 newm now we're starting with 20 then 80 and then 200° angle and and the repair manual says to start with the intake [Music] side now you can remove the tools exact same process on Bank two now I need to put the engine 10° before TDC timing tool the chain tensioner exact same procedure for these bolts first we need to stretch them and then set the engine at [Music] [Music] TDC [Music] now back to TDC stupid bolts oh everything is going to hurt tomorrow how are not all mechanics buffed now we can remove the timing tools now we need to rotate the engine and then verify that the timing is set correctly so we're going to do two full rotations that's one coming up to TDC okay very important first the timing on Bank two is checked and these letters here on the cams need to point up the timing is set correctly when this tool sets flush with the cylinder head this one is perfect double perfect per the repair manual 1 mm Gap is allowed here but in this case the timing tools are sitting perfectly flush with the cylinder head hopefully you can see from this angle that both timing tools are sitting flush with the cylinder head important exclamation mark as the repair manual says the timing of B one is check that overlap TDC so we need to remove the tool do one full rotation get it to TDC lock it in place and then we can check the timing on bank one the markings on the cam here need to point downwards which they are as you can't see them and then the cam lobes need to point downwards at an Ang angle like this perfect and double perfect the timing of the engine is set correctly the timing tools is sitting flush with the cylinder head on bank one as well this is how the tool sits on bank one all right let's take it for a spin that snapping noise that you hear when I'm turning the engine that's Hydro Valves and Vanos and you know stuff happening feels great and that's the timing in time I double checked the timing looped up the chain and gears everything is perfect so we can continue new plugs here at this point I want to flip over the engine button up the bottom end and then we're going to continue with top okay that wasn't too bad at all I believe we can do the oil pumps indous sir the oil pumps this is the oil Scavenging AKA return oil pump this is the main pump all new hardware new chain everything is brand new except for this guide here which I missed when I was ordering parts so I'm going to reuse the old one as it looks perfectly fine and I don't feel like waiting for a few days to get a new one we got to mount the guide now also the sprocket and the chain the nut we can do a bit later now we're going to Snug up the bolts and then we need to set the backlash for this gear here you can see that we can move the pump slightly which is how you adjust the backlash for the gear here it's very very lightly going to put the metal plate here for the magnet this is the magnetic stand for the dial gauge so that's now on and firmly in place this is how you measure the backlash you move the gear back and forth and then measure it on the dial here so I'm going to push it all the way that way then zero it out the backlash needs to be from 0.06 to 0.08 mm and if you remember before I took the engine apart which was I think never apart before I measured this backlash and it was 0.08 so I'm going to aim for that right now we have oh we way above spec that's like 0.013 so now I'm going to take a rubber mallet and then just gently move the pump that's bang on of money 0.08 I'm going to Snug up the bolts now I'm going to raise the tool and rotate the engine slightly and check it again this is where I had problems on Project Crowley E60 M5 I would set the backlash then rotate the engine and get a completely different reading so let's see if I have the same issue here I did a half a turn and we are still at 0.08 which is brilliant and I'm going to complete the turn 0.08 perfect now I'm going to apply thread Locker on the bolts remove them one by one the repair manual does not call for this but the the torque for this is very light and I just want to make sure that these bolts are not going to go anywhere so medium thread Locker pop it in nice got to make sure that this is still with spec it is but I'm going to do one more rotation with this set properly now we can remove the tools a brand new gasket here then we have the chain tensioner here first the base valve then the spring using assembly Loop to hold the base thing in place and now we can pop it in and I hope I didn't make a mistake and that I can slide in the Piston now should have done this before I put the pump in but you live in you learn the main oil pump there we go kind to do a tiny bit of thread Locker here as well the guide no torque pick here we're just going with good and tight brand new nut with thread Locker honestly This Thread Locker that I put on new bolts is like what it just came off completely I applied my own heavy thread Locker the one that comes on the bolt simply comes off and doesn't do anything thread Locker applied on this nut as well give it a nice Gooden twist BR your gasket the repair manual doesn't give a torque speculation here so we're going to go with 10 NM because these are M6 bolts now we have Plumbing for the oil pumps with brand new orings on the ends to bracket Lube up the oring and that's the installation of the O pumps done a clean oil pan fresh gasket clean bolts and originale oil level sensor fogging oil from men spray the cylinders now I need to thoroughly clean the surface and make sure it's oil free because this is Metal on Metal gasket all right now I'm going to blow the oil pan one more time with compressed there oil pan going in we are going to use thread sealer on the bolts sealer nut Locker just a precaution in case oil were to leak down the threads of the bolts with this stuff it can't going to very slowly drive them in the torque is 10 mm and I'm going to start from inside to out the oil level sensation the drain plugs 25 NMM this is the one that we repaired hence a different bolt flip it back over surprisingly not that difficult to turn it over all right let's button up the top end now next up timing chain covers with fresh gaskets and Vanos solenoids that I cleaned thoroughly and then installed brand new O-rings clean the surface the covers are not the same the one that has two threaded holes here goes in bank one the longer screws go into the corners here and then the shorter ones here a clean oil filter housing a new gasket new cap new filter new oil pressure switch and bolts clean the surface the gasket nicely installed the oil pressure switch move of the inside the oil comes later once the engine is back in the car and now the vibration dumper you have to do this after you install the oil filter housing otherwise you can't get to re bolts with the dumper in place the tricky bit here is how to lock the crank to torque these bolts and you can't use this location here because we can damage the dumper damage the this bracket or whatever and then the timing is not going to be correct after so there is a special tool that bolts in here and then it props up against the oil filter housing and then you can torque it I don't have it okay so let me see what I can figure out brand new bolts these are not reusable they're stretch bolts I think I have an idea this is the crank pulley holder for the M54 engine unfortunately only one hole lines up but I think that should be enough let's see first 60 newm and now 40° angle twice okay second round well slap me silly and call me Willie the rusty pipe saved the day the pulley for some reason the Torx speack is not listed in the repair manual but from experience with these bolts it's typically 22 newm so I'm going to go with that next up bom deaga thermostat new orings and gaskets lubed up orange bit of a lubrication here silicon spray careful with these O-rings if you pinch them you can have a leak here thermostat installed new coolant temp little pipe connection with a new Crush Washer and this white bracket thing for a pipe here that comes on top new spark plugs the last big pile of parts for now we have beautiful aluminium V covers from nrw design they replace stock magnesium V covers that like to chip drop paint inside of the engine cause oils and are generally very difficult to finish so this is a phenomenal upgrade the link to them is in the description they also come with new grommets for the bolts then we have new spark block tubes V cover gaskets cam shaft position sensors when it comes to sensors and electrical stuff you have to use either OE or original stuff with replicas the engine will not work properly the ignition coils we are going to reuse the old ones because the new ones cost piano roll please 29 each and then there's eight of them I have 16 of them in stock so I feel comfortable reusing the old one ones if one of them dies I can always replace it rather easily they are not standard ignition coils they have ion sensing module sensors thingy here in the cap and after they fire they send the signal back to ECU and essentially this replaces nox sensors and you end up with eight individual knock sensors for each cylinder very clever design fortunately very expensive never seen R Car gasket pack like this give me my gasket make sure that's seated correctly in there now I need to lube up the spark block tubes just the ends here lightly okay clean the surface drink cafesito that step is not necessary by the way I'm sure it does help apply a bit of sealant where the front timing cover meets the cylinder head bit of oil here as well last round of oil for the cam shafts the one that has a stud and a nut goes here in the back you're going to evenly tighten the bolts from inside to out in a Criss-Cross pattern the torque spec is 6 newm or you can simply go by hand and you will feel when the bolt bottoms out don't overtighten it and that's it but because you and I love torque wrench clicks you're going to talk this spe the fitment of nrw Alo Val covers is fantastic and this is what oe+ means kids when someone develops a part that fits exactly as the original one one but it's made of much better materials and it's going to function and last a lot longer phenomenal design heads off guys let's grab the ignition coils cam shaft position sensors Lube up the surface now can you guess the torque spec for the camshaft position sensors nope it's 4 NM and then 45° angle that's that's right they had a meeting and someone said mate you know those tiny M6 bolts that bolt in the cam shaft position sensors we need to make them interesting let's do a 45° angle torque and I'm not going to use a torque gauge because I feel uncomfortable with this these are very small bolts and it'll be easy to snap them so I'm just going to put a marker here in here and then turn them 45° using my eyes as a measuring device that feels about right they could have simply said 10 newm 15 newm but no no no no no and then we have these tiny nipples [Applause] here I'm probably the only person in the world talking these bolts to spec but that's said we're done we built the legendary Motorsport S65 engine cheers Prost salude J this was so much fun we went from a completely bare block bolt by bolt screw by screw gasket by gasket torque wrench Click by click and here we are a fully built engine I adore this type of work slow methodical precise I enjoyed every single moment I really did and I hope you found it enjoyable as well from this point on it should flow pretty quickly in the next episode we're going to pull back everything surrounding the engine pull back the transmission and then back in Project Frankfurt it goes and then it's first start time this is the engine for my dream car this is a pretty special moment right now and I can't I'm so excited to hear it r for the very first time and drive it as well and I'm I'm happy that I was able to share all all of this with you and thank you so much for following along I really really appreciate it I wouldn't be able to build to do this type of rebuild without you watching and following along so thank you so much and a special thank you for my patreons as well anyway if you enjoy this video please consider subscribing I would really appreciate that leave a like comment whatever and I'm going to see you in the next episode cheers for now you know next time we need to rebuild the S65 engine I think we're going to go with a stroker kit 4.4 L baby and the next engine I want to rebuild is the s85 the V10 and D60 on5 but not project Raleigh you better not die

Channel: M539 Restorations

Views: 3,625,131

Keywords: e31, bmw, 850i, 850ci, restoration, revival, barn find, e39, e38, m5, 740i, 840i, 840ci, 850csi, csi, 8er, 8 series, classic cars, bimmer, 540i, v12, 535i, 750, e46, m3, m70, road trip, m73, budget, first start, car project, b7, b8, alpina, restore it, e34, e32, e24, hoovie, tavarish, doug demuro, vice grip garage, car throttle, samcrac, e60, s85, v10, challenge, m54, 3er, chrisfix, detailing, disaster interior, detailing geek, top gear, cartrek, Abandoned, dealership, alfa romeo, mclaren, rebuild, matt armstrong

Id: NfuXp8QnWoU

Length: 76min 57sec (4617 seconds)

Published: Fri Dec 01 2023