Will It Run? MINT 1971 Torino

now this is a new one for me I don't know if I've ever filmed an intro to my intro before here but um some things I want to point out before we jump into this video with this very Original Classic 1970 Torino is we get under the hood and start going through some stuff you're going to see things that you might consider to be hackery you know and you you might be tempted to make some comments about that and one thing you need to know before we move through this is that the fow that dropped this car off with me to get it set up uh you know he inherited this from his good friend who had passed away and he's not necessarily a carb braid guy we all know that there's a lot that goes into getting these set up well um knowledge know how and I've just done this for a long time and so that's kind of why the car ended up here you know I offered to set it up so here we are you know this is a young guy and really the way to keep people like that in the hobby is to you know not give them necessarily a hard time just go ahead and help them out um help them along you know not really chastise them I guess that's how we keep this hobby moving forward and I know all of you guys here that follow me on this channel are largely respectable people and I think you're going to understand so with that let's Jump Right In and let's get this old Torino set up [Music] howdy my friends and welcome to the channel today I'm Luke Thunderhead 29 here on YouTube and today we have something a little bit different folks have reminded me that hey do you remember that you're a YouTuber and you're supposed to make videos and all of that so you know I film not a whole lot of what I do but today we have uh this Fell's car in here and it is under the hood there's some serious debacle bille going on it didn't run it had the trailer in here and so it's a really nice car to not be on the road okay and it's finally warm here in Iowa so we're going to see if we can help him out get it on the road he's a fuel injection and Diesel guy so you can imagine that some Tom Foolery went on when he tried to put in his own distributor and some other things so we're going to see if we can get all that cleaned up and uh I'm sure we're going to have a chuckle or two you know sorry about that at your expense I know you're watching this video I'm not going to say his name but uh anyway let's jump in all right so under the hood it is a 351 Cleveland which I think it's been like 10 years since I worked on a Cleveland not that it's a whole lot different than the Windsor series Ford or anything else you know a push rod engine is a push rod engine it's a push rod engine Chevrolet Ford pretty much everything operates off the same premise but it was an AC car which has been kind of removed it's a two barrel it has a protronics in there that there's something going on and actually ironically it has a carb cheater and we'll get to that in a moment but there's some really interesting wiring over there that probably has to do with a lot of the issues hopefully nothing got burned up but you know we have a lot of parts in case it did again it's a really really nice car so I'm almost afraid to be laying hands on it here just a normal automatic car I think this is a 19 70 Torino perhaps pretty cool tail end on the thing H so where to begin with all of this this plug wire Arrangement going on here kind of stresses me out and I never got the full story of how he tried to install the distributor I know he didn't understand the rotor lining up with things when it's dropped in so you know who knows where cylinder 1's supposed to be we're probably going to pull this out because there's actually orientation that you can drop a distributor in where with the firing order in mind the plug wires all lay really nice which is not the case here we got some of this going on uh we have a carb cheater in place and it's not wired to the battery so that's already suspicious this looks like the power wire and ironically the ground wire looks like it's on the other side of the starter solenoid I'm not sure what this is tied to the eye of the starter solenoid it looks like it goes to this relay I'm going to have to actually look at this to be able to explain you guys what maybe is the intent of what's going on here some of this stuff is just hard if you don't have a background in it I'm a programmer by day I do a lot of heavy electrical in a manufacturing plant you know some of this stuff just happens to be second nature to me all right so I've had a good look around here and this is I want you to keep in mind I was told that this would kind of pop off sputter you know it never idle or anything but it would actually light off so remember that as we go through this so starting off it's a protronics igniter 3 uh probilt distributor igniter 3 module and coil uh really nice units really like putting them on Fords a lot of Ford people don't like them but that's because they get wired wrong where Ford all Fords have a resistive lead um instead of a ballast resistor so it's a lot less obvious and basically that drops the voltage now the ponics requires a full 12 volts to the module and coil or else it'll eventually burn itself out now we don't have that going on here we're coming around everything you know we got some interesting stuff going on spliced together this looks like the on Signal wire for the carb cheater uh some other stuff going on here the power for the module to the coil and then this is where it starts to get really interesting okay this goes over to a relay which sends power from the battery to all that which is normal but where it gets weird is the main power here to the carb sheater is on the positive side of the starter solenoid but then the negative wire is on the other side of the starter solenoid how that works the starter solenoid when you turn the key it pulls this big uh basically it's a magnetic solenoid you know it Bridges this connection and so this would basically be an open circuit it looks really bad but it would be an open circuit so when you're cranking carb cheater you know wouldn't be on you know not a big deal uh you wouldn't want to wire it that way but you know nothing too crazy yet now where it gets weird is this is the signal wire for the relay and basically the only way I could see this running what would have happened is power would have went through the carb sheeter out the ground this is no longer connected and and then it would have connected on the eye here of the starter solenoid turned the relay on and powered the ignition so pretty amazing almost a modern Marvel that this could possibly work I could totally see it working and it's probably the most unorthodox thing I've ever seen yeah I just don't even know if I can lean on this car this is just not my typical immo of things to work on here oh thank goodness this is just like I got to show you this radiator hose okay this is like the factory Ford radiator hose still with the Staple in it from when it was manufactured these spark plugs probably haven't been out of here since you know 1979 or ever and it's very black now I really don't want to damage the super original engine and super original car here and so just like check this out here's the thing that I was referencing it's still got the staple the auto light you know this is some original original stuff going on here from back in the day but I don't think I can get a 1516 socket down in there so I'm going to do the old school way here of just bumping it getting to the compression stroke cuz I have no idea where our distributor is and so I just need to come up to True TDC and see if we're even close I have a feeling I'll be pulling it out car is just so low to the ground okay so we're going to jump the starter solenoid here just to roll it over see if it'll even [Music] move it's an abnormal [Music] sound I'm going to go with the batteries probably dead let's just go steal the battery and see what happens this thing's just floating in here anyway so I think we're going to borrow the Mavericks battery here I drive the Maverick every day to working back 50 Mi round trip so you know I know it's got a good unit in it I've actually had to buy tires for it which is wild I've put 60,000 miles on this car since I've owned it and for whatever reason this ugly pile of junk car just seems to be my favorite car to drive it does get pretty good gas mileage and you know when you stand on it it does get out of its own way it's got a mild build 302 and then a four-speed close ratio top loader but all that is side I think that's what we're here for and here we go oops ah it's fine what wouldn't have been fine is if I would have hit those Saddles I think that would have been the end of my life if I would have smashed those mama would not have been very pleased with me I don't think if you ever work on other people's cars you encounter all the things that you do to your own stuff that you take for granted like this these have been clamped on with the force of a thousand suns and my own stuff what I'll do is just you know just tight enough where it has continuity but I can still wiggle it pretty hard and get it off so hopefully I don't break these in the process cuz G dang someone got their gorilla arms out when they did that all right round two here maybe there we go okay now we're in business that worked out too good so all I was doing there was rotating the engine while I had my finger in the cylinder one spark plug hole the reason that's important is because the TDC Mark will come up on the balancer twice where you can be 180° off the cam rotates half as fast as the crank it's a 2 to1 ratio going on there with the timing chain and anyway you know fourstroke cycle being what it is and so you just want to be sure you're on the compression stroke of TDC because that's where our ignition should be kind of directed towards cylinder one in this case so as you saw we had pressure blow my finger off and now we get down in here and might I say this thing had gobs of compression seemingly and uh there we are so someone has pre-marked that and that's going to be very convenient also because this car is low the ground and I don't want to lay on the dirt so conveniently for our visual cues here the distributor uh rotor is pointing directly back at the carb going to drop our cap back on here and I believe this is spark plug wire number one sitting over there we trace it over here and it is and so if you look at this Square you know we're pointed way off in this case so the ignition timing is probably wildly out so I could take this distributor twist it all around in here to try and get it correct but uh you know and a lot of people say you know oh the Distributors a tooth off I read that in the Forum stuff all the time you know I think people misunderstand what that means but in this case that's fairly accurate because because we just don't have enough Motion in the twist of the distributor to basically pull this into where we want it so we need to pull it out um basically preload the distributor the proper way and drop it in and then I'd be pretty confident to try and light it off and this is obviously rapidly devolving here where obviously I'm making great use of my cart but insert joke about Ford they obviously knew you'd be working on it all the time so they gave you ample room to just put your tools all over the place place now conveniently someone has removed the AC compressor which generally on Fords you have to fight with if they're equipped with one so we're already ahead there but you just want to be careful before you pull a distributor you know all this mouse poop and everything as soon as you pull that out that's going to fall right in the hole and you know fairly undesirable if you kind of go against what it says in the book for plug wire layout and you make this cylinder one you can see that the plug wires end up laying very nicely on a Ford distributor so if you want to take a mental snapshot of that you know then they lay pretty nice now these were previously cut to length for a different orientation but you know they worked out okay now there's something with spark plug wires that I would consider to be a myth uh I've never experienced it myself I guess but you don't want any two cylinders that are firing right beside each other on the cap you don't want those plug wires touching because apparently you can get like this cross talk now myself I've never experienced that but still um You probably noticed that when we were panning around here in the engine bay I set up the plug wires over here so that the two cylinders that fired one after another you know there was a plug wire kind of splitting the gap between those so I don't know if you guys have ever experienced that I haven't it's easy to avoid I guess with a layout but I don't even know if you have to man it's hotter than a son of a gun today it's like 90° in Old Iowa now you can see the cam to distributor gear engagement here and so you see how it rotates back on itself so if we wanted it pointed in a certain direction all we really should have to do is be able to pick it up pre clock it and drop it in but since Ford likes to have the most over complicated Distributors on the planet we cannot do that because the oil pump drive shaft is ever so slightly in the way now one really cool thing about the protronics line of Distributors is they use what is called a melanized gear and the reason that's important is because they work for both flat taet and roller cam engine so this engine Factory had a flat tap it so the distributor normally would need to have a cast gear and then if you put a roller cam in it or something you know that distributor wouldn't work now I've always thought this sounds hokey but I've racked up you know tons of miles on the Maverick and then I have an F100 also that I have tons and tons of miles on both of them have protronics units with the melan gear uh one actually you know the Maverick has a flat tap it the F100 has a roller and have never had any issues in all those miles so that's one really nice positive that makes them really easy to work with so plus one for protronics on that front this is why you want to be real careful check that out a nut from probably the old coil before the protronics fell in there and luckily it did not make its way in when we pulled the distributor out so again we're going to put some rags in there and clean all this up oh look my Nemesis red RTV that definitely means an idiot worked on this at some point now I've gone over this before but when you drop in a distributor you really want to make sure that it's fully seated um in this case you can see that it's not we pointed where we want to go but it won't go all the way in and what it's doing is hanging up on the oil pump drive shaft which in this case this is the Ford style you know overly complex hex style and so what you can do and a lot of people say is you can kind of set it in there and bump the starter and it will fall in but you know I'm not going to go through it but some weird stuff can happen when you do that and you can just simply tape a socket on the end of an extension and it's a little bit of take the distributor out move it ever so slightly drop it back in until it fully seats and that way you don't risk damaging anything I know there's quicker ways but you know why risk it especially on a car like this and just for the sake of reference if you look way down in there that tip of the shaft that you can see just the tip of it sticking oh boy just the thing down there that's in the hole all right that's what we're uh trying to engage with so we're going to drop down in just turn it ever so slightly this is going to be a game of cat and mouse I'm sure so in goes the distributor where we want one to be is here we're going to pre-lock it get in there and it's being kind of orary there we go let's go get the coffee all right so that's your butt all right the distributor's in by the way all right smart car stuff blah blah blah the gremlin beside me doesn't want to be filmed so we'll respect your wishes and not oh oh she's leaning forward okay she's over there I promise so after a short intermission here our distributor is in fact in we can look back here our rotor is lined up with our Mark we made on our distributor body that coincides with spark plug wire number one on the cap I Advanced it ever so slightly you know we're still lined up at TDC with the crank normally I'll actually Advance the crank 10° or so and drop the distributor in square at that point but just with how we did it was easier to do this than just Advance the body of the distributor it's clocked the way we want where our cap is going to look good so all that's good now I need to kind of figure out what in the world I'm going to do with this wiring if I want this thing to actually light off at this point I probably verify that the relay is actually wired correctly I've been making a lot of assumptions so I'm proving the positive post on the protronics coil there you know we're hooked to the negative of the battery so I'm just going to simulate the key I assume this is the signal that pulls in uh the relay here and connects the battery to everything else I do hear it there and we are getting 12 Vols so technically I think I could set this on the battery and fire it at least the spark plug's going in here easier than it came out aside from my 64 Galaxy it's like every single old car I've had just the wiring is absolutely butchered so it's always like a scavenger hunt to try and figure out what was going on at some point or what someone's idea was usually good intentions and it probably makes sense to them but I have no idea what they were thinking generally and that isn't necessarily me saying they did anything wrong you know it's just uh I don't know what right was supposed to look like and generally things get changed around and I don't know you know I just don't know so got to do it my own way doing it live so far off to a good start can I get this on here thank you it's even my dominant hand it's kind of shameful just trying to cross my eyes and Dot my teeth here I got the vacuum line I just whatever you know the phrase you know the thing anyway I got this vacuum Port off a manifold vacuum this has one of those weird vacuum thermal tree things and you know after all these years questionable and you know that was some primordial soup stuff of whatever anyway we're just going to ignore that for now we're hooked up to the ported Port of the 2100 auto light or I guess this looks like maybe a 2150 either way same difference so we can see what's going on there we have our timing light in place and I think nope one more thing we want to do is this choke is completely closed and we just don't want to fight that when we got all of this going on so let me just loosen these three screws here and then we can rotate this bad boy and it'll open that right up for us chok's loose and we're just going to open it all the way up so we're not fighting that then I don't know we'll just put one screw in cuz we do want to set the choke up for sure but that's just one variable that we don't want to be dealing with we got to give it a little bit of foot feed till it has just a little bit of temp but it's so hot today that I'm really not worried about it oh that wouldn't have worked so is that going to stay there oh that'll work science just as long as I don't shut the hood all right a lot of Tom poolery going on we're not going to put that in yet a lot of Tom foery going on under there normally you want to be careful if you have points ignition about leaving it hot if the point gap is closed you know that coil is a ticking Time Bomb about to explode but this being a protronics igniter 3 you know it can sit there hot it's not going to do anything without cranking RPM you know ultimately just going to run the battery down and that's about it so maybe if I shut the door this will shut up oh my arms my camera mount all right we're going to give it one pump hold it like a quarter throttle maybe try and catch it because there's no choke here this car sounds pretty good everyone loves the 351 Clevelands I've never actually sat behind the wheel of one personally I've rode in him uh with a wild man who drove like he was completely in same so I do know they can lay down some pretty decent power in stock configuration timing doesn't seem perfect but got to hold it for a second here until we can get some temp and it'll idle on its own most that's now oh we're doing pretty good all right we're going to be quick about it it's definitely got the danger fan on it use my extra ridiculously long fingers here see if I can do this all with one hand pretty darn hard to see down there looks like we're at 6° or so so that's in my opinion pretty late that might be what the book says but everyone knows how I feel about the book so we left the distributor loose so we can advance it you heard RPM go up and everything smooth out the carburetor is pretty [Music] questionable this fan scenario is very sub ideal carburetor is not very heavy happy but on the ported Port it is good so it doesn't have too much curb idle screw as you see as you increase the curb idle you can see the PED vacuum starts showing vacuum or the PED Port starts showing vacuum rather so you know that looks okay it's just definitely like the idle circuit's kind of questionable that belt's really annoying let's go hear what it sounds like from the back end that's a weird thing to say it's either burning a lot of oil or it's actively trying to flood so we'll look at the carburetor in a second all right so yeah very clearly pretty squirly oh yeah that's right duh hotwired see if we can get this all in one Cliff here taada okay so we don't want to run that too long like it is first thing I'm going to do is try and set the mix screws equally and refire it but you know there could just be a lot of squirly stuff going on I'm not a super big fan of the auto light uh 2150 I'm pretty sure this is a I'm not going to go through reading all this stuff but you can kind of tell a difference where the 2150 has this kind of rounded look where the older school style ones are more flat and they do seem to be more reliable and less temperamental but I've never loved where the mix screws are they're very inaccessible U maybe that was by intent cuz they didn't want people monkeying with them back in the day but pretty annoying now so what I've done is I've ran both of them all the way in and I've went a half turn out now this engine should not run like that at least very well and if it does that tells me that this thing is flooding somewhere and I don't have a carburetor rebuild kit or anything anything for it so I'd hate to have to pull the top off and start monkeying around it doesn't look like it's been open since like I don't know 37 vietnams ago so let's just hit the key and see what happens it's probably why it fired off so easy without any form of Choke whatsoever but really seems like it's flooding oh come on and it's idling which it totally should not be doing it runs almost entirely the same and it went from like I don't know two and a half turns out or something pretty significant to a half turn shouldn't be the same if I had to guess we're going to get out of here this is oh I guess I don't need this anymore so if I had to guess you know the power valve on a 2100 is just like a holly probably petrified cracked and we're probably just pulling raw fuel through the power valve right now in this thing you know it's sat a long time it only has like I mean this is probably 177,000 original miles so you know it's the Crux of the diaphragm stuff just doesn't last too long sitting around the only time I've ever had stitches in my life is I put my hand in a fan just like something we have here luckily I still have all my fingers sh quiet now so anyway I need to kind of decide what I want to do I don't really like quote unquote giving up on stuff I wanted to put a Flor Barrel on anyway but I really just kind of want to make it work right the way it is I don't know I better just see what I have here and oh boy unfortunately I do have a two barrel kit for the 2100 2150 whatever that is in there so we might be getting into it now fortunately it's not extremely invasive it's on the underside here which I'm sure I'll pull off in a second and you'll see but on like a holly a power valve you know this is a metering block here it's kind of this guy here let me flip this around the ride orientation and basically it has restrictor orices in it where when a certain vacuum rating is met it'll Supply extra fuel to the primary circuit so you have a cruising AFR and then you have a hard throttle AFR so the power valve itself isn't responsible for the volume of fuel it just controls at what vacuum the fuel is added now this is kind of a neat dual stage power valve which you don't see those anymore so I've actually drilled and tapped these at one point this might have been my test unit from like 10 years ago uh these are where your restrictor orices are and usually they're cast in you know I've clearly modified these but on a power valve often times they say the vacuum rating that they open at so 6.5 but if they rupture it's a diaphragm in there if it were to rupture then you have fuel from the bull going into the engine completely unregulated and sometimes an engine will kind of run it just depends on how bad the rupture is but one thing you can be sure is that the more you drive it if this is the case the worse it's going to get is this what's going on here I don't know we'll see now a lot of folks think I have like some weird dislike for edel Brocks and that's not necessarily the case in fact I have a new one right here and there's a few of them over on the Shelf but all of that aside I think it has the superior design on the enrichment because it uses Springs and needles and although they might get seized in place you know you can always free them up and get them working where you know a diaphragm after it sits uh generally it's just going to get petrified and hard and eventually rupture and it's all over all right I think everything is free nope one vacuum line there we go nope two vacuum lines now it's free there we go go don't spill fuel porn one out for my dead homies oh I guess I don't really have any homies so pouring one out for myself question mark all right only half of that ran down my arm that's what you want all right so if flip the carb over on these Auto lights and the power valve should be right below here and it's kind of suspicious because it's got some fuel residue going on here but if I remember right there shouldn't be any fuel on this side this should be the vacuum side of the diaphragm stands to reason geometrically so usually I have pretty highly modified stuff at this point so something like a two barrel just never lasted too long in my ownership and would you look at that there is so there's our problem it's definitely a blown power valve you can actually see so let me get over here so I can make sure I'm showing you so there's all of our fuel Bad come on Focus there we go so there's our vacuum Channel comes right through here manifold vacuum right into here so our power valve was indeed blown passing Fuel just raw and unmetered into the engine which you know non atomized fuel just isn't going to do too well it was a pretty Telltale sign when we uh ran the mix screws in it was still able to run so was getting plenty of supplemental fuel through the power valve unfortunately I don't have a cameram man so you're going to have to deal with looking at my nipples but I want to get this in real time because this is one of those things that people say all the time that totally isn't true now just cuz I that came loose really really easily so I'm sure it's not going to be the case and it's not a holly technically long threat on this guy you can see how wet that is so that Soldier has definitely played his part and he is done but a lot of times you'll see that the power valve gasket splits and a lot of people will say it has two gaskets and that is not the case they just dead shear and if you try and use one or the other side of that it will not seal I've tried it for the sake of science it is a waste of your time especially on a holly where it's pretty invasive to get to do not do it it didn't happen here but it's definitely happens on Hol a lot almost every time honestly just always want to use a new gasket in this thing it's been on here for a a long time just dead petrified definitely my least favorite job is scraping gaskets probably help if I didn't have a suicide razor here I guess you probably can't say that online you know it's sharp on both ends so which I've found out on numerous occasions unintentionally side note there's your power valve restrictors in the auto light they look like they actually have a pressed in piece of brass which would have been an expensive manufacturing thing to do as opposed to just a rough casting that's drilled so that's kind of impressive so I guess we're going to take just the power valve out and put it in this is one of those things where I don't really like to dive too deep into something it doesn't need it if it isn't broke don't fix it because there's a good chance something else will go wrong in the process screws will strip or anything you know so if this makes it run good we're not going to go any deeper and we're going to be happy about it so now we got our mix screws ran all the way in and the auto lights are a little bit different than the uh Hol and so I think I'm just going to start with 1 12 one maybe one and a half turns out see where that gets us now keep it mind it's really easy to look at screws and start thinking that they're supposed to look the same you know when they're bottomed out the slot on the screw is different from one side to the other it's extremely important especially on a dual plane like this to uh keep them the same so obviously this one started a different position so and I already forgot as I was talking so there's one half one and that's one and a half we think at least we've done our due diligence so let me put this cover back on we'll slap this back on the engine all right little buddy on you go I have high hopes for improvement CU clearly that was a pretty significant problem it looks like we have figured out so really don't want to take the top of this carb apart everything's hooked back up carbs back on fuel line is secure fuel line is secure fuel line is secure CU I've done that before that'd be really a shame in this engine bay so it's going to crank for a little moment here I'm sure get out the way door come on now oh boy I have to make all those old man sounds when I got in oh my goodness be all right all [Music] right that was probably just all the residual fuel in the intake oh oh there we go burning all that garbage out oh we're not sending clouds out the back big surprise it's idling a thousand times cleaner too as one would expect you know naturally if you don't have just some random unregulated fuel leak just raw fuel into the intake manifold it's going to run better so it's not too bad obviously a vast Improvement here I'd like to act like I'm smart but you know I've driven the this stuff only car braided stuff for like the last 10 15 years or so so stands to reason if you're going to do that you probably need to be pretty good about setting stuff up and you know I just know a lot of this stuff because I've seen a lot of stuff and that's why I do this whole YouTube thing so that I can just pass all the knowledge that I learned through pain and suffering forward so you know maybe you guys don't have to okay so oh no the key for God's sake shut up okay sure you all want to hear that I even annoyed even annoyed myself oh and I left the lights on now what I'm looking for is just on the onset of when that needle starts to move so right now it's technically zero so you see it there kind of moved a little bit so that's pretty good it's right where as soon as you get into the throttle at all we're engaging the uh timed vacuum or the ported [Music] Port believe it or not you can close it down too far and that's also bad you underexpose the transfer slots and the transition is really poor in fact here I'll just do it for you so why don't I just lower it too far far here see how it kind of stumbles and falls on its face even though vacuum looks good here we [Music] go just on the onset then it revs a lot cleaner so you know you got to be really particular but if you do what you're supposed to you can get some pretty good good results I moved our vacuum gauge to a manifold vacuum port and remember this vacuum gauge is below zero so it says 18 right now so it's pretty darn close to 20 it's nice and steady so we know the valve train is good if you see a rapidly moving needle usually you have a bad valve somewhere AFR looks okay we're still letting temp come up now we went through the idle adjustment and you you can tell that it's still idling ever so slightly too high and this is the thing where it's like well what initial timing do I run now so check this out [Music] [Applause] here so as you saw we pulled a little bit of timing out of it and the idle RPM went down to a much more reasonable RPM so it looks like we're at about 14° or so and what I'm doing here is I'm just looking for the TDC mark on the balcer to be lining up with our timing pointer and whatever my little wheelie knob is on is the ignition timing we're at so we're at 14° initial everything seems happy I think we're a little on the rich side so now I think this is all okay let's adjust our mix screws you can see it's kind of hunting ever so slightly and most people would be good with that but I'm just a little too particular now I know I've said this a lot in other videos but I really want to drive this point home because just I see it get regurgitated incorrectly a lot lately on the internet the internet goes through Cycles you know it'll grab onto a piece of bad Tech and just perpetuate it for a while so the truth of setting mix screws with a vacuum gauge is it's the easiest way to do it is to start out too rich and then lean it out and as you lean it down you'll reach a point of the highest manifold vacuum and then you can actually lean it farther and it's going to dwell the vacuum is going to dwell there you want to go to that first onset of being lean okay that first point of the highest vacuum and then you want to go an eighth to a quarter turn richer from there reason being as soon as you shut the hood everything goes on you know fuel being the way it is today all that extra underhood heat affects the fuel density and you're going to want that extra a to a quarter of a turn I promise you you know you don't want to take my word for it go give it a shot CU it's pretty revealing but it's kind of hard to tell when I'm you know under the hood what I'm doing but that's the general idea there so I think the carburetor is pretty good at least for a preliminary test but there's some stuff we definitely need to do with the ignition now that we have our initial timing figured out so we have the cap and rotor off of our protronics igniter 3 distributor and we can see the advanced mechanis and all the going on there which is if you're familiar with Fords like I am or have watched my stuff you know that this is just a superior design to the factory Ford stuff now all you really in-depth guys that got machines like that you know and stuff I understand that you know you might have a different opinion but for the everyday hot Roder which is the info I try and put forward you know these are really nice electronic ignition everyone thinks it's all about the hot spark and all that Tom Foolery although that's good what's nice is the ease of tunability and the availability of tuning Parts which the igniter 3 comes with a setup and so we're at 14° initial and we want to be mindful of our total timing now I know from working with these Distributors for years and you know having the paperwork pretty much permanently burned into my brain that this distributor adds um 24° of mechanical timing so that would be too much with our 14° initial but the beauty of a tunable aftermarket distributor is you have advanced stops and they're here somewhere in this car and that's important because it's not about having too much boy this was some serious Halloween stuff o candy look at that getting sidetracked it's not about having more timing it's just about having the right timing and so that looks like what we're after oh hey air filter that's probably important and anyway with with 14 degrees initial and 24° total that's just too much and that's Into the Danger Zone for mechanical timing so but I went ahead and put the uh 20° limiters in I don't know why protronics couldn't have just stamped 20 on them instead of 10 which means 20 so basically that's pulling out 4 degre of mechanical timing these look pretty Mickey Mouse Hocus Pocus but ironically they do work really well and they are darn accurate for what they are which is impressive for a bent piece of garbage but they did a pretty good job on them all that aside I think we're good we can put the cap and everything back on we're getting close to be able to do a preliminary drive but we'll check timing I've now hooked up vacuum advance to the ported Port which you know I'll save you the lengthy explanation as I've gone through that many times if you look up manifold versus ported you'll see my ugly mug talking about it in several different scenarios so all of that aside let me get this reassembled and we've moved from the 90° part of the day where now it's dark outside and we've moved to the 100% humidity Point especially in this garage so uh yeah welcome to Iowa if you've never been here um definitely if you have the option just keep on driving all right now you probably saw that I didn't change the advanced Springs and that's cuz as per of the documentation the Silver Springs are in the distributor uh total timing is all in by can't hardly keep my glasses on today total timing is all in by 3500 RPM and that's okay you know that's safe still fairly effective but safe and this not being my car um me being pretty picky and observant and you know can't really speak for other people you know you can still have fun and it'll still perform well but you're less likely to damage anything that way so I just left the Silver Springs Alone um but again when you do all this stuff it's real tunable you can look at the documentation and then you know make your spring selection stop bushing selection all of that accordingly I do always recommend verifying with a timing light because I've seen the paperwork not be correct before so it's definitely a worthwhile Endeavor to do so now it's getting pretty late here but we are moving along I don't think I want to drive it out in the dark you know we got a few things left to do I still need to wire the ignition correctly and you know we did just hook up the vacuum advance so you know I kind of wanted to see I haven't had an opportunity to do this yet just to see how well it starts up on its own if I can do the long arm special here that's what we like to see makes good sense to check the vacuum advance now so if I rev it and it falls on its face the vacuum advance is adding too much [Music] timing which patronic stuff is generally 15° so you know that's well within the realm of reasonability I don't know we're looking pretty good at this point nice and smooth it's nice when a good look looking car actually runs as good as it looks it's okay to have a garbage car if it runs bad not that the Maverick does too cool I'm digging it and in classic form I lied to you guys where after I used the timing light and I saw when the advanced curve was starting to move from its initial mechanical setting um obviously we had the vacuum advance unplugged at this point um I didn't like it okay so I'm going to put one of the light Springs in uh in one of the medium Springs and it should pop off that initial mechanical timing point a little bit sooner total timing will come in a little bit quicker but we were way safe before and we'll still be safe but these are some of the reasons why you always should check with the timing light because things don't always match the paperwork and this is one of those examples and that definitely if you're a nut job Peak Performance guy like me or whatever some try hard I guess maybe you could call me you know you're going to feel that in your off vital transition so things like this are very important so I'm going to get this done now I'm going to go to to bed and I'll catch you guys tomorrow [Music] all right my friends so it's been a few days uh and I don't remember exactly where I was at I think I had the engine all dialed and uh yeah I don't know this is what happens when you jump in and out of thing so let me just figure out where we are and get our bearings I think we were doing some electrical stuff and then we're ready to drive this thing so I'm kind of seeing from my splicer here and this wire I remember remember I had to basically Hotwire it to run it before because of all this electrical that we've kind of ironed out I've given the Torino back its respective battery I've since charged it up the Maverick has received its normal battery back you know probably the following day from all this you know again daily driver you can see I didn't run into the saddle so that's good so with that it looks like I've unhooked the voltage regulator here and I know one of these is a signal wire from the key and weo be able to tag our wire for our relay which runs our ignition and things into that and so everything should work and we can pull this thing out all right so oh God the awful sound here we'll set the key to run mode does the horn work oh nice and then we'll come around here and I have the multimeter hooked in here you know we're just on the negative of the battery and we're probing the connection here so the green wire looks like it has voltage I want to say it's the green or the yellow I could look it up but I'm lazy I guess this is more effort actually and that one has voltage so I think it's the green so let me turn the key off and the one we're looking for is the one that doesn't have voltage with the key off so there we go that's looking pretty good let's take a look at our yellow wire here and if I can get a good connection hello hands I don't think there we go I don't think that's the one we want so I think if we tag to the green wire we'll be okay so kind of hurts me to splice into factory wiring especially on such an original car but there's already been a little bit of Tom Foolery that's gone on with this signal wire here there's something in line so you know not entirely a um love loss scenario now this shouldn't be pulling a whole lot off the signal cuz again this is just pulling the relay in and the relay is what's passing power from the battery to everything else so you know we're not really putting any extra load on this signal lead uh so hopefully it's pretty inconsequential and you know there's things I recommend doing and things I don't and kind of this hack together wiring you know uh wouldn't be necessarily what I'm promoting doing but it's probably going to work here okay and be just fine probably won't just cuz I said that but let's find out all right my friends first time starting from the key like a normal vehicle weird if it works so 3 2 1 I like it got the choke disabled still so it's going to take a little bit of foot feed what a good sounding car amazing how well something can run when the power valve isn't just dumping a Relentless amount of fuel into the engine overall not too bad although I do have some mild regrets in not opening the garage door with that power valve previously being blown all that soot and carbon accumulated in the exhaust and uh when I revved it up it painted me a nice picture on my garage door so that was a genius move just goes to show how bad it was you know it's just blowing all that garbage out at this point figured it's worth checking here to make sure that everything still charging you know we want to see something above like 12 1 12 volts oo and that's a stout alternator we're sitting here charging at 14 so I don't think we caused ourselves any issues tying in where we did so that's good I still wouldn't say I recommend wiring it like that but I don't know in a pinch it does work again I'm not saying to do it but if you had to seems like you can seems to be doing an okay job idling nice and smooth here kind of a dangerous spot for those wires to [Music] be I see the fan belt didn't self heal so that's unfortunate it's pretty tight so I don't want to tighten it up any further because you know if you really get tight on the belts it's going to blow your water pump it's going to blow out the bearings in your alternator and all your accessories you don't want to do it this belt is probably ancient and wore out and so it's just slipping so something to keep in mind when you have these old cars you know you can cause a lot of Destruction just by thinking you can grab onto that alternator and really tighten it up so something to think about all right good enough for me shuts right down doesn't run on that's good so I think it's time to get this uh air filter out of here so we can drive down the road oh yeah I forgot got the Halloween 1000 going on back here don't eat the candy just get the filter there we go I think I see why the air filter wasn't on it now it's not clearing the protronics distributor ow man and my head did not clear that hood latch so I think we're going to have to do something a little bit different this is really starting to get pretty disorganized over here but I think this will work out it's a funny looking apparatus on there but all of that aside that should surely clear everything not going to say I'm particularly proud of what's going on here but it should seal and it does clear the hood just fine without any issues so uh lesser of two evils at least you're not getting dirt in our engine so the ever relevant key bump test here nice except for that exhaust leak down here pretty cool [Laughter] so since it's momentarily devolved into some Shenanigans here for a moment all right I've come under Fire in a recent video where I said that I was 6'5 in passing and I generally don't talk about myself a lot here on YouTube and a lot of people said that I'm lying I don't know why I lie about my height so I got a tape measure here and I'll show you you know and it's definitely nothing to be envious about it just means your back hurts all the time I'm doing great but right where my finger is here whatever this is 6'5 6' 6 so there you go all right enough Shenanigans let's drive this thing way too nice of a car for me to have I do despise the automatic transmission though but just kind of comes with the territory I [Music] think shifter is a little squirly neutral is reverse reverses neutral I don't know someone short must have been driving this car actually I know they were pretty short no offense I know you're watching this hopefully I haven't ragged on you too [Music] bad all right neutral kind of is that drive that's Drive okay that drive was uh shortlived I just looked at the fuel gauge and it says empty does it work I don't know but I don't really have plans to get stranded today either so back home we go cruising at like 5 mph on the gravel road just way too nice of a car for this area this is what I would consider to be an undesirable angle to say the least way down here at the bottom sounds good though all right Perfect The Old Farm rig all right here we go again apparently need to go on want to di it good [Music] grief or just not wear my seat belt and die like a man there's always that option that's two I do not like automatic transmissions that's new neutral I'm going to turn this thing around I am not entirely convinced it's grabbing every gear that it's supposed to so this would be a good time to actually break out the carb sheeter and have a tack but kind of do this old school so I know that's one okay that should be two and that's neutral I don't know what's going on oh see that's reverse so that's neutral somewhere here neutral just creep it in so that should be drive right so oh boy it's got plenty of power that's for sure 351 Cleveland here it's not bad that was probably 3/4 throttle this isn't my car so I'm not real keen on beating on stuff for a little two barrel car with uh tall rear gears for Highway cruising this thing still has plenty of power and I'm really resisting the urge to tow into it but at the end of the day this isn't my car and I think what I really want someone just beating the living snot out of my vehicle that they were supposed to tune for me you know at least I would rather him be in the driver's seat at this point and then we see what's what if he wants to mount it to the floor that's his business but you know 3/4s throttle it definitely gets out of its own way there's no mistake there yeah it's definitely downshifting into first now so you know it was me I was the idiot couldn't tell from the indicator you know I was definitely putting it in twoo so you know we had like a two-speed power glide thing going on there but I think with that my friends I'm going to take this up to the gas station and I think I have enough time to catch this farm auction and if you go to any farm auctions Farmers just sell really neat stuff super cheap is it super functional no you know it's from the 50s and stuff but man it's cool so I always just like seeing what goes across the block and who knows maybe something stupid will come home with me hopefully not you know definitely uh probably won't make my wife very happy if I buy something and that was just one two three again so turns out I'm the idiot what do you know me and automatics man we're just not friends man dude this thing runs awful good I really wanted to put that four barrel on it but it would almost just be a crime it's just all original equipment it's a very nice well put together car drives good everything's just pretty good it just borderline be sacrilege to change anything at this point I don't think the fuel gauge works but other than that everything's pretty good the auction happens to be just outside of the jail I've never been there yet but there's definitely still time catching the front end of it here so let's see if we can't go and buy something that we more than likely don't need but it'll be cool cuz it'll be Agricultural and probably from the 40s 30s or 50s in that order I did get myself a Primo parking spot where you're not supposed to park but you know I don't think anyone's going to say anything more than likely just hopefully it doesn't get auctioned off while I'm here pots and chemicals flowers in your yard hang Chic all right my friends thanks for coming along with me today I think we got this Torino all good ironed out here weird story about the auction uh I bought two things intentionally and one tractor accidentally it's a long story and I'll get into it in a different video but uh yeah what a weird experience so now I have to figure out how to get all of these home because you know naturally you buy them cheap because they don't run cuz you're an idiot so that's me the idiot [Music] [Laughter] [Music] to KI you from your with youo yeah [Music] a

Channel: ThunderHead289

Views: 91,900

Keywords: junkyard digs, vice grip garage, will it run, dd speed shop, mortske repair, car revival, hot rod power tour

Id: bUKlfEWM7Kw

Length: 72min 27sec (4347 seconds)

Published: Fri Jun 14 2024