[narrator]
A country in the south of Europe, stunningly beautiful
from the tip of her toe... to her Alpine summits. [ibex grunting] [squeaky calls] Italy is packed full of natural wonders, secrets... and elemental forces. Always ready to surprise... and impossible to tame. Late winter in the Italian Alps. 800 kilometers of rough, rugged,
high mountains, stretching from the French
to the Slovenian border. [crows cawing] Spectacular but also freezing cold, and threatening for those
who want to survive here. Only specialists like the Alpine ibex can master the extreme conditions. They have taken over the zone between
the edges of the forest and the ice. The animals are frugal
and astonishingly good climbers. The males also carry an imposing
set of horns, up to a meter long. All these qualities have turned them
into a living symbol of the Alps. Alpine ibex were as good as extinct,
surviving only here, in the Italian National Park
of Gran Paradiso. Today, however, they're also
re-established in other Alpine areas. With each passing day,
the sun is in the sky for longer, but the snow stubbornly remains,
even in low-lying areas. A bearded vulture. With a wingspan of almost three meters,
he soars above the peaks. These majestic birds
were eradicated around 1900, but in the last few decades
they've been reappearing in the Alps. Around 100 bearded vultures
live here today. They're also dietary specialists.
They get by on bones. That's why they avoid
the victims of winter at first, giving others the right of way. The crow makes the most
of the short time with the carcass. The peace doesn't normally last for long. The king of the skies, the golden eagle,
has discovered the food source. With his hawk's eyes, his vision is
around three times that of a human. Dead chamois ensure his survival,
as well as that of crows and ravens. Now, in late winter,
the golden eagle also feeds on carrion. The eagle can't carry prey
which is heavier than himself, so everyone has to take their place
at the carcass. Every day, the eagle needs
a good 200 grams of meat. The eagle dissects the prey with his beak, although his real hunting weapons
are his extremely strong claws, capable of penetrating a chamois' skull. So the crow should take care. Italy's golden eagle population has been
estimated at around 500 breeding pairs. In the Alpine region, most of
the suitable habitats are occupied. [birds twittering] Alpine choughs are true mountain experts,
living above the tree-line. The aerial acrobats occupy the highest
peaks, literally playing in the wind. It's been documented that they follow
mountaineers up to 8,000 meters in Nepal. The outstanding gliders reach more
than 200 kilometers an hour in descents. Beneath them lies the unique
world of the Dolomites. The Dolomites form
the heart of the Italian Alps. And every evening is different. Mountains and clouds constantly
create new pictures in the sky. At first light the next morning,
curious sounds from the mountain forest. [low clicking] [chattering] The capercaillie,
Europe's largest game bird, performs his courtship dance
for the ladies. During breeding season,
the testosterone level of the birds, who can grow up to a meter high,
increases dramatically. [chattering] The cocks, otherwise
very shy and rarely seen, are now highly aggressive,
attacking even humans. Despite his best efforts, on this morning, the cock remains without a hen. Yet his courtship song seems to act
like a wake-up call for nature. Finally, the sun gathers its strength. The landscape is in flux. Few other regions in Europe change their appearance
so radically throughout the year. For months, the vast precipitation
has been bound up in ice and snow. Now, the spring releases it. Crystal clear and shiveringly cold, the mountain streams of the Alps
are home to the dipper. She's a real water baby. The only indigenous songbird
who regularly swims and dives. Being plump, she can maintain body heat
for longer in the ice-cold water. Her bones are pretty heavy,
making it easier to dive. Underwater, she turns over stones
in her search for insect larvae. In the early mornings and afternoons,
the dipper goes in search of food. And at noon, a thorough grooming session. The dipper greases
its feathers extensively, using secretion from the preen gland. Only then does the water
run off perfectly. The high mountain range,
practically inaccessible, is a habitat for the sure-footed,
like chamois. The solitude also attracts others,
however. The chamois are cautious. They've long
known about the presence of this enemy. The wolves have killed some prey. Every day, they need to consume ten to
20 percent of their bodyweight in meat, some four to eight kilos. In contrast to Germany, there's never been
an attempt to eradicate wolves in Italy. In the early 1970s, however, there were
still only around 100 of them left. In 1976, they were officially
protected under law, and since then the population
has multiplied. Nevertheless, wild wolves are shy. Only with a lot of luck will you ever
catch sight of one in Italy. The sun, climbing higher
with each passing day, ensures the supply of melt-water
from the high mountains. Spring needs a little time up here. Still, it won't allow itself
to be held back. Most Alpine streams in Italy feed into
the longest river in the country, the Po. At its mouth to the Mediterranean,
it forms a huge delta. Today, an important nature reserve. The Po Delta Interregional Park
is Italy's most prized bird sanctuary. [birds calling] In a few places, the delta at the
Adriatic Sea is extremely rich in fish. But they don't let themselves be snatched
from their backyard that easily. The hunt demands a balletic
performance from the little egret. The birds hunt much more successfully
in small groups than alone. The heron's beak serves as a harpoon. In fact, its entire body construction,
including the neck, is designed for the purpose. The hunters are on the prowl
for big game. The experienced bird grabs the red
swamp crawfish so skillfully that he can't use his pincers. Some quick realignment and head-shaking
breaks the crab's weapons. Then the whole procedure again. Flush him out, give him a jab, then... you get pinched. With a bit of luck you might
come across a female crab. They have considerably smaller pincers. Little egrets are common in the delta. For a hundred years, their numbers
have been growing almost everywhere. In the past, they were intensively hunted. Their decorative plumage was
highly coveted in the fashion industry, and sometimes traded
more expensively than gold. Living much more secretively
is the purple heron. Its breeding colonies
are always hard to reach. Before feeding, the parents first check
out the lie of the land around the nest. Safety is the highest priority.
Only then do the young get to their food. [chicks chattering] The extensive flood land of the delta
is tailor-made for the purple herons. 300 to 400 couples are said
to be breeding here. In the rest of Europe,
the birds are set to lose perhaps three-quarters of their habitat
through climate change. A coypu. Coypus were first introduced
from South America for their fur. By now, they've occupied
vast parts of Eurasia and their successful progress
is likely to continue. Where generations
of salt workers once toiled, today the supply ducts and facilities
of the former industry lie derelict. Humans move out and animals move in. In 1985, the salt works were abandoned. Three years later, the park was opened. [birds twittering] A hole in the old wall suffices
for the kestrel to settle in. But they don't build nests. Originally pigeons wanted to nest here, but they have no chance
against the falcons. The male brings back a lizard,
perhaps for the last time. Only one chick is left in the hole. His siblings have already moved out. Today, a gusty wind sweeps the delta. The young birds hesitate. Not ideal
conditions for take-off and landing. Staying on your feet is dangerous enough. A broken wing would mean certain death. The daily flight exercises are cancelled. The Po Delta is one of the most treasured
natural landscapes in Italy. Humankind and nature have
formed the delta together. In this case, a true success story
for biodiversity. The nature reserve has continued
to attract new species ever since its foundation. The greater flamingo, the largest
of its kind, arrived all by itself. They obviously feel at home here
and they're staying. In the year 2000, greater flamingos bred for the first time
in the lagoons of Comacchio. These days, the colony can reach up
to 10,000 birds in good years. [birds chattering] Thus the Po Delta has become one of
the most important breeding grounds in the whole of Europe,
within only a few years. In pre-Roman times, greater flamingos were probably
widespread in the Mediterranean region, but wealthy Romans prized
flamingo tongues as a delicacy, causing a massacre. The constantly increasing population
in the Po Delta is encouraging - atonement through nature conservation,
2,000 years later. Flamingos are nutrition experts. Treading water stirs up microorganisms. The edge of the beak
and the tongue together form a system to filter the plankton
from the water. Laborious, but unrivalled. Only sometimes
is there time for disagreement. Relative to body size, their necks and legs are longer
than those of any other bird. And it's exactly those long legs which turn mating into
a balancing act for the males. While the female
gives up even watching. Flamingos are among the most
sociable birds on Earth. When preparing for take-off, however,
everyone needs their own space. With around one and a half
meters of wingspan, they can reach up to
60 kilometers an hour. So stages of 500 to 600 kilometers
per day are no problem for them. Meanwhile, summer has arrived
in the Italian Alps. Pastures and meadows
become one big flower garden. Globeflowers are blooming and the colorful fire lilies
are attracting visitors. Lush hillsides in pale lilac.
A sea of snakeweed. [cowbell rings] Life can really be enjoyed here. Paul, a farmer who grew up
in the mountains, still feels connected
to tradition and nature. His footsteps do not go unnoticed. The asp viper has poor visibility
in the flowery meadow, but she still notices the slightest
human or animal movement. The viper prefers to exercise
caution around cows and people. Every couple of days, the farmer checks that everything is all right
on the pasture. The cows are part of his life -
they mean everything to him. As always, he's brought a few treats
with him in his rucksack. The cows are already waiting for them. Cattle who still live in the open air - this is agriculture
with respect for nature. Whatever the mountain farmer
gives his animals, they give him right back. This coexistence can still be found
in some parts of the Dolomites today. [squeaky calls] The warning signal of a marmot.
It announces someone's approach. They recognize the farmer, however, and
seem to know that he poses no danger. Life up here is comfortable now. Lush greenery and not as many
insects as at lower altitudes. Sitting around in the sun
makes you thirsty. The red deer calf wants his mother. Ever since birth, doe and calf
have been connected by an invisible scent bond. The mother recognizes her offspring
by the smell of a secretion from its pre-orbital gland. Whenever the calf wants a drink,
it opens the gland. Then Mum knows the little one's thirsty! The fuller the calf becomes,
the more the gland closes again. That's enough now. The farmer is already preparing
for the long winter. He learned his skills
with the scythe from his father. It doesn't matter how steep
the mountain meadow is. Hay from the Alpine herbs ensures
his animals' survival over winter. Old trees are the starting point
for his reconnaissance flights. The Rosalia longicorn is one
of the most colorful beetles. The males occupy and defend a small patch
of dying wood, preferably beech tree. As soon as the larger females allow,
mating starts, lasting around an hour. Afterwards he stays in the area as a
precaution, to stave off potential rivals. The female feels for cracks in the wood
with a pointed tip on her hindquarters. She wants to lay her eggs. If she could finally
be left in peace, that is! Summer doesn't last long here
in the Italian Alps. Soon the evenings will be shorter again,
and the shadows longer. South of the Alps, one of the most
famous regions on Earth. The rugged peaks give way to gentle hills
and a mild, Mediterranean climate. As soon as the morning mist lifts,
she appears - Tuscany. A mosaic of vineyards and small woods,
olive groves and crop fields, endearing and full of treasures,
great and small. History at every turn. Ancient villages, evolved over centuries. [birds twittering] A pair of jackdaws
enjoying some quality time. Their marriage lasts a lifetime. The village tiger has the situation,
and his fleas, under control. But below the village, in a small
oak grove, trouble's brewing. The stag beetle,
the largest of its kind in Europe, has raised his weapons,
his enlarged, antler-like upper jaw. A rival has also scaled the tree.
Conflict looms. Using their forceps, both beetles
try to lever up their opponent and fling him from the branch. Unless the intruder
decides to beat a retreat. She lured the males using pheromones
and has watched the fighting. She will only mate with the winner. The male skillfully shields
his new partner, not allowing her any escape
from his "love cage". Yet again, his forceps come in handy. Enough romance. Now she will concern herself
with the laying of the eggs. The resulting stag-beetle larvae were
considered a delicacy in Ancient Rome. The many insects who live here attract a
bird which is becoming more and more rare. The hoopoe is unmistakable,
thanks to its mottled crown. He feeds virtually exclusively
on large insects and their larvae, so he loves the old, sun-drenched
groves, which are full of food. Under the trees,
a singular orchid paradise. Everything of distinction
is represented here - the lizard orchid,
Ophrys and marsh orchids. The air is filled with the scent of thyme. Wild and meadow herbs
are her favorite delicacies - the Hermann's tortoise. She knows exactly what she wants, favoring very specific plants
and blossoms. Today, it's the yellow ones. To that end, she covers 80 meters a day. Sometimes even 400. Still, that's how the tortoise clocks up
12 kilometers in a whole year. In the middle of the countryside, a sea. Of poppies! Typical Tuscany. Wherever it's too steep for agriculture, in demolished areas and on
steep edges, that's where they live. Bee-eaters. They are among the most
colorful birds in Europe. Of course, such a flashy plumage
needs careful attention. The bee-eaters arrived late
from their African winter quarters. Only now, in June, have they
started to dig their burrows. They're busy for two to three weeks, digging up to two meters deep
and shifting five to six kilos of earth. In the process, they wear down their beaks
by about two millimeters. The constant tunneling
not only creates dust, but also leads to parasites
settling in the feathers. So grooming becomes very important. Bee-eaters are skillful aerial hunters, able to spot a larger insect
from up to 60 meters away. A short flight leads to success. That's required 400 times
a day during brooding. The male gives the prey
to the female as a bridal gift. This shows a willingness to mate,
up to ten times a day, in order to maximize
the chances of success. From the heart of Tuscany to her most
southern coastal stretch, Maremma. This is home to around 9,000 of an
ancient breed of long-horned cattle, the Maremmana, who live
alongside the wild animals. They're constantly accompanied
by a flock of cattle egrets. The birds exploit the rich insect life
around the cattle, thereby making their work easier. The cattle have a light-bordered muzzle,
a typical feature of the extinct aurochs. The bulls can grow up to
1.7 meters at shoulder-height. I wonder who lives more dangerously
here, the cattle or the egrets? Maremma was a malaria-infested
swampland up until last century. Her old coat of arms
features four letters, standing for hardship,
malaria, sweat and blood. No other breed of cattle could better
manage the harsh living conditions. Since the animals feed on aromatic herbs
and grass all year round, their meat tastes especially good. [mooing] The cowboys of Maremma,
the so-called butteri, ensure the wellbeing
of their horses and cattle. Their working animal is the Maremmano, a horse known for its sure-footedness
and agility in difficult terrain. The horses are also patient,
motivated and tough. The butteri are masters
in the saddle, "real men". And they need to be,
here in the wild west of Tuscany. In the year 1890, according to legend, Buffalo Bill was here in Italy
with his men. They held a competition with the butteri
to see who the best cowboys were. The American cowboys
maintained they had won and the butteri said the exact opposite. Back to the southern Alps. The Alpine lake is crystal clear and
smooth as ice on this autumn morning. Only the nutcracker is agitated,
meaning there's something in the bushes. Brown bears live very secretively
and reclusively. For good reason. For centuries, the great predator
was feared by humans. Brown bears were mercilessly slaughtered
in many places, including Italy. Around 100 animals still live
throughout the country, in three separate populations. One group lives in the
Adamello-Brenta Nature Park in Trentino. Before 1999, their number
had shrunk to three animals. As a result, ten further bears
were introduced from Slovenia. With great success. The strictly protected group has,
by today, reached over 40 animals again. The bears have already laid down
fat reserves for their winter dormancy. Here they show just how extremely mobile
even a colossus of a bear can be. Autumn in the Alps arrives quickly.
Even the trees take precautions. Larches lose their needles. But they breakdown the green leaf pigment
of summer beforehand, storing the valuable substances
in their trunk and roots. The needles turn yellow. Insect hunting of the highest caliber. The white wagtail knows
where it's worth a look. The deer herd has found a rutting arena. [deer calling] Only the strongest stag, the dominant
male, stays near the female. The weaker ones keep their distance. The does and calves, who have
moved away from the herd, tirelessly keep the boss at bay. By the start of the rutting, the stag
has reached his maximum weight. He loses around a quarter of it
through "leadership stress". [deep, throaty calls] Again and again,
he boldly stakes his claim. Digging around in the earth
and extensive wallowing are typical behavior traits
of the dominant male. His hormone levels
are extremely raised. During rutting, his urine smells
so strongly of male pheromones that even humans can detect it. For competitors,
it should be sufficient warning. He demonstrates his superiority
with an imposing stance, swaggering gait
and his head held high. He constantly strides
up and down his herd... checking eligible females
for their readiness to conceive. Higher up, the snow is appearing again. On clear nights,
it's already getting bitterly cold. A crossbill in search of minerals. Only now, in early winter, does
rutting season begin for the chamois. In dramatic hunts and chases, the dominant male keeps his rivals
from the herd away from the doe. Job done, now back to the lady. Chamois are cloven-hoofed
and extremely skilled at climbing. They wedge their hooves into the ground
and their back legs, longer than the front ones,
allow them to stand better on slopes. Even better climbers are the ibex. Whoever lives in the high mountains
must have a head for heights and be sure-footed, from childhood on. The ibex have turned
climbing into a fine art. There are over 40,000 of them
in the Alps today. They all have ancestry in Italy. At the start of the 19th century, only
100 ibex were living in Gran Paradiso. All the animals alive today
descend from those same 100. The young bucks are practicing their
horn thrusts and really letting rip. They build up experience in the group. The prominent men
are in the mood to mate. They constantly pick up the scent
of the does on their tongues. They approach cautiously. No, she doesn't seem to be
quite ready yet. Gradually peace reigns
once more among the animals. Only those starting winter
thickly coated and well-nourished, have a chance of seeing
next spring in the Alps. From now on,
energy conservation is top priority. If it's getting too dangerous up high,
one can always head down to the valleys. And serious disputes should be avoided. The ibex seek protection in the herd,
relying on experienced leaders. The high mountains allow
their inhabitants no mistakes. For half a year, snow and ice will
occupy the far north of the country. Then, once again, life will flow back
into even the mountains. This is Italy. Stunningly beautiful and wild,
from the Dolomites to Tuscany.
