Why 3 Fingers is STRONGER than 4 for Some Climbers

some climbers are actually stronger using three fingers instead of four how is that possible two interesting reasons the first comes down to simple anatomy and the draped or drag position some people's pinkies are simply not long enough to reach the hold in order to get that last finger on they would have to change the position of their fingers wrists and even arm depending on the type of hold and the personal preference of the climber this may actually be a weaker position for them so instead they stick with the drag by dropping the pinky the second reason is due to the climber's inherent strengths and training habits well the half crimp is generally considered a stronger position due to more engagement of the finger pulleys and wrists the three finger drag can be trained to be stronger some climbers advocate for prioritizing the drag in your training because it's an efficient and safe grip position in my opinion both the half crimp and drag are worth training if you know how to do it effectively and that's today's beta

Channel: Hooper's Beta

Views: 760,745

Keywords: climbing, rock climbing, bouldering, sport climbing, rope climbing, climbon, climb stronger, climb better, rehab, physical therapy, doctor of physical therapy, orthopedics, strength, mobility, function, training, strength training, climb harder, sport, athletics, fun, education, sport training, training for climbing, 3-finger drag, drag, drag climbing, open hand climbing, crimp, hangboard, crimp training, hangboard training, climbing training, hand holds climbing, grip type climb

Id: UTonMW9cVSk

Length: 0min 46sec (46 seconds)

Published: Mon Dec 05 2022