How to get STRONG FINGERS with Alex Megos

foreign [Music] finger strength I think finger strength is one of the most important things in climbing I'll show you a few things that I do to improve my maximum power please always make sure to be properly warm that's important and if you push it I mean it's we still have to say it anyways make sure to be properly warm and if you feel something in your fingers if you don't feel good just don't do the session always do the session even if something hurts until if one of your fingers is not in the corner by the end of the session and you're pulling the other corner you did something wrong [Music] and cold this is the beastmaker 2000 and it's the best fingerboard there is on the market because the holes are really nice and comfortable it's wood and it's not as as all the other fingerboards out there and this one is the 1000. this one is the one thousand yeah which has super lovely jugs over here ah and you do the fingerboarding regularly or just every day or it's your warm-up routine or I do fingerboarding almost every session first of all to warm up even if I don't do a proper fingerboard session I always use the Beast make it to warm up and usually uh every week I do quite a few fingerboard sessions too I do Max fingerboard sessions to improve my maximum strength and also power endurance fingerboard sessions which we can talk about next time but today I want to show you a few things that I do to improve my max power I usually use the beastmaker crimps on the left and right the small ones and I tried to hang with additional weight or with no weight for a certain amount of time but after warm up we'll get more into detail [Music] crimping with everything up so of course there are different types of grips here I show you some this is the full cream I will show here like yeah you nail it [Laughter] Chris is nailing it anyway so this is the half grip maybe a shot from the side I think it's a better half trim position drag finger position so what's the difference between these finger types so with the full crimp the thing is um it's a very coordinative skill because you you your you have to get used to the to the position um the Ukraine have problems with that yeah I had a lot of problems with that I had actually to train this um so this one here the half crimp that one that I prefer on you as well Alex I guess yeah um it's more it goes more for the for the muscles here the forearm um and this one the direct finger position like this or with the with the pinky this one is more up to the to the tendons here if you're hanging more in into the tendons I mean that makes sense if you for example if you're climbing a maglev and you have deep finger uh pockets and a lot of moves onto this Pockets so then your um you spare a lot of energy um here in Franklin Euro you often have some gnarly strange holes and crimps where you have to half crimp and to to sort your fingers like like this or like like this really yeah so Frank you're a special brand new a special yeah right so and of course it also makes sense if you want to climb hard and Franken Euro to also train this yeah on the fingerboard like yeah like trying bird position so lift your fingers like like this usually for me I train almost everything in half crimp position this is the probably 90 of my training I do I feel like dragging for example on pockets is something that is not so much a matter of training but actually just of the tendons and the fingers getting used to it because for example if I don't hang dragged like that for a long time it feels super uncomfortable and within a week like it it already feels much more comfortable so I feel like this is much more about the tendons getting used to it whereas the half composition is actually we are training your muscles so usually that's my my preferred training grip and I'll show you a few things that I do to improve my max power on the fingerboard in climbing usually have hang times between two and eight seconds on the hold so that also makes sense to train that as a maximum load so I take the beastmaker crimp over here and because I can hang in longer than two to five seconds let's say I add additional weight to be able to get to hang time of two to five seconds I add some weight okay we take 10 kilograms and we choke up we do that weak side first [Music] [Music] why are you doing the weak side first because then I don't have to do the weak side as uh after the strong side and feel bad about it with my maximum hangs I usually do four to five sets depending on how I feel with weight usually with bent arm I have it somewhere between 90 degrees and 120 degrees and afterwards I still do some sets on the straight arm without weight which I'm actually not very good at straight arm is the position that I struggle the most with [Music] see the first head is already a lot better than the last one [Music] okay my Hang Time is getting close to two seconds I think that's me done for uh probably with this exercise now I'll still do a few sets of uh hanging half crimp with straight arm on the beastmaker and that'll be my Max fingerboard session now the second and last exercise in my Max fingerboard routine is uh half crimped with straight arm [Music] thank you five sets of that and that's done then [Music] so the problem climbing is and when you when you begin with climbing when you're a beginner you become really strong in a very short time and because your your muscles are adapting very fast but not your ligaments and your your tendons and the bones the structure so for me I would say at least you have to climb like regularly over one or one and a half years to start with finger training serious finger training so I show you one thing which I think is a really good exercise for beginners you stand on your ground with your feet and you're taking something like you can you can take the the pocket you can take the crimp doesn't matter and in the end it's important that you're pulling on your first joint here so with both arms you're standing here on the ground and you you're just pulling a little bit not hard just a little bit and hold it for like in between 10 and 15 seconds yeah like this standing here and should should feel really relaxed like 10 up to 15 seconds and then you change your finger so the next finger and you go up to the pinky yeah so that's it do this three times in a row yeah like three sets and that's it for today do it maybe you can do it twice or yeah twice a week it's enough for really for the beginning like when you start climbing and you you want to feel comfortable with your with your fingers and then you can increase and have some progress with other exercises do you do the same with the crimp with the fulcrum or with it with the half crimp yeah I would I would start with with hanging fingers yeah with drag fingers like this and after some weeks after maybe some after four up to six weeks you um can start to to crimp your finger like this and really it's it's a little bit of load what you what you have on not much so just stand here of course you can also work with some body scale like standing on it and yeah then you can see how much you're pulling off but it's not so important for the beginning so now we go to the to The Peacemaker 1000 with the pig with the good crimps here and we do three finger direct and then also of course a four finger half print so it looks like this we have a hang time um from 15 seconds up to 20 seconds so like this 20 seconds later and then four fingers half print like this no thumb 20 seconds later so do this like I would say yeah between five and four sets with a big break in between we did this now um in case you can't hang on these crimps here then stop finger training and go climbing instead like try to increase about your climbing and don't do like anything here like I don't know hanging with extra weight on bigger votes than anything because the yeah you won't hit the target if you want to have more uh detailed information about fingerboard training also for beginners there's an excellent book it's called beast making um yeah have a look so that's a book Alex oh that's the book look a picture of net that I took plants um no they don't

Channel: Alexander Megos

Views: 197,856

Keywords: fingertraining, klettern training, bouldertraining, beastmaker, fingerstrenght, climbing training, fingerboard, finger, alexander megos, alex megos, megos, chris hanke, max räuber

Id: ETs6CLcBmWI

Length: 12min 27sec (747 seconds)

Published: Sun Mar 19 2023