What Caused This Engine Damage? - Generac GP5500 Repair

hey guys welcome back so today I'm working on this gener GP 5500 this one I bought from a local guy who buys and sells Power Equipment when he picked it up the engine was locked he managed to free it up get the machine running and he sold it to a contractor well fast forward two days the contractor brought it back saying that it no longer runs so he reached out to me asked me if I wanted it and I may have paid a little too much for this despite the fact that it's clean and complete you know I did spend $150 and the engine I'm not sure if it's good or not it has compression and it turns over but the issue is when you turn it over quickly it makes a terrible sound so I'm not sure where that noise is coming from if it's internal or external anyway assuming we sort that issue out really the only other thing that needs to to be dealt with is the tank when I took the cap off I did hear pressure release so I think the vent is clogged up and also the tank it isn't terrible but I wouldn't say it's great either it looks like there was a rust in there at one time there's still a little bit so that should be maybe cleaned up a little more anyway let me get set up a little bit better I think I'm going to try starting it and just see that it makes power I don't want to run it too long cuz I think that engine might be on the verge of blowing let's check the oil and he did mention the oil color was really bad he changed it several times he thought maybe it was water and yeah I want to say the oil color looks terrible but it makes me wonder what was in the oil was it little bits of metal or was it water I'm not sure but I think based on that sound I would say it was most likely bits of metal so let's try starting it all right let's give this a try we get the engine on WE the light connected and turned on the fuel's already on and we'll just give it some choke now hopefully this doesn't blow up I'm a little nervous about it and the timing could be off as well which would rip the cord out of my hand but hopefully that's not going to happen try with the choke off and we get nothing so let's get the airbox cover off we'll give it a little help with some starting fluid and try it again just a little bit doesn't need much all right let's give this a [Music] [Applause] try well we got Signs of Life the engine it would not speed up though so the light did not turn on and what I saw actually coming out of the carburetor was flame and smoke so I'm thinking we have valve issues these are somewhat known for having bad cam shafts where the lobes get ground down to nothing and the valves don't open and close properly so that that is what I'm thinking is the issue here of course we'll find out for sure anyway before I take this thing apart I think I'm just going to set you up over by the airbox we'll try it again just so you can see what I was seeing [Applause] well we didn't get any Flames that time but I did see a bunch of exhaust coming out of the carburetor and that is not normal that should not be happening so I would say we do have valve issues you know even when you look at the back of the air filter you can see right here where the soot is that there's some exhaust coming backwards through the system so I would say we get the this up on the lift we get the valve cover off and get a closer look we'll check the valve clearance and see if both valves are opening and closing as they [Music] should I'm going to start by getting the spark plug out if I can just so I can turn the engine over without any compression plus I don't want it to have any chance of being able to start not sure if I can get a wrench in there it's pretty tight yep jeez yeah it's impossible to get that plug out of there so yeah let's backtrack a bit we'll get the tank off first and that should give the access needed was pretty loose and it's missing the metal in well I may have already found out what one issue is the pressure that the tank was building was due to a clogged tank vent line and I went to disconnect it from the airbox and usually that line connects into the side of the airbox or maybe the back and this airbox does not have the accommodation for it so I think this is an aftermarket airbox they usually don't come with that connection so I started looking around and I found that this line right here actually comes down and is plugged into a Barb on the top of the carburetor and that is not the right spot it does not vent there that actually just serves to plug the line and with the line plugged the generator might run for a while but once the tank pulls a vacuum the fuel will not advance and go into that carburetor so yeah that that's an easy fix assuming we make it that far anyway let's get that tank off yeah much easier to access this plug not sure how you're supposed to do it with the tank on seems like a bit of a bad design wonder if they use an NGK in here or if it's a uh torch I think they use torch savior so yeah not quite a name brand but maybe a little better than a torch going to start by rotating the engine I'm going to watch the valves make sure they're both opening and not only that I want to see how far they're pushing the valve in it should be roughly the same so the exhaust moved a little and now the intake I would would say a lot let's try it again yeah that exhaust valve it is barely moving that was the exhaust stroke and that is the intake and I wouldn't say that's going down particularly far either but at least it's more pronounced so let's rotate it a little more it should switch to the exhaust and that's it for the exhaust that is the exhaust stroke and that that valve barely moved so yeah I would say the cam lobes they are most likely shot let's just check the clearance real quick so with the exhaust valve kind of depressed we can check the intake there a little bit of clearance there rotate till the intake goes down that intake did not move much either and yeah there's a little bit of clearance on the the exhaust so yeah we got cam issues for sure the clearance does not seem to be the issue here and the exhaust lobe seems to be the worst but the intake doesn't seem a whole lot better so yeah unfortunately the engine needs to be opened up I do believe gener has cam shafts available for this and there's a lot of little bits of stuff in here too can't quite tell if it's carbon or metal well whatever it is that needs to be cleaned out when we put it back together well the good news is gener does sell the cam shaft still I found it online for $72 so if that's all this engine needs I think it is worth fixing my concern though is not replacing the cam shaft I think the fact that the lobe wore down it sent little bits of metal throughout the engine you can see a bunch up here I'm sure it's throughout everything and the strange noise I hear when pulling the engine over might be a sign of additional damage inside so I would say there is a pretty high chance that this engine is junk I won't know though until I get it opened up so I say let's drain the oil we'll get the power head off get the engine opened up and assess how bad that damage is let's see if the oil gives us any clues now the guy said he already changed it a few times and it didn't look right so the damage was most likely done already but let's see if there's any other signs of metal in here it's not coming out very fast it's almost like there's a piece of metal maybe obstruct in it so the oil is pretty much done draining and it doesn't look terrible I mean there is a little hint of metallic in it but not too bad I've seen a lot worse so I'd give this one a little [Music] hope that top plate I took off it was to gain access to these bolts the exhaust it has to come off cuz it's attached to the stator man those are tight there we go there we [Music] go [Music] [Music] so before you disconnect everything take pictures take video make sure you know where everything goes so when you reconnect it you don't get it wrong because if you do then you could cause a short circuit and destroy your power head so I'm just starting here by removing the AV R that's the automatic voltage regulator and the brushes just going to mark one of the white wires because there's two sets of white wires it really shouldn't matter which way they go but I want to connect it up exactly the same way just to make sure I'm just going to leave leave this like that so I can get a puller in here later if need be to separate the ball bearing from the in-housing going to completely remove these insulators because to slide the Stater off you really need to clear these studs and with these in place it makes it a lot more difficult and use this three jaw puller to separate the end housing from the ball bearing now you want to go really easy on this this aluminum cracks very easily I have cracked a few and it's never a fun thing to do so this one the aluminum's pretty clean there's not a lot of aluminum oxide on it so I'm hoping it's going to release without putting up a fight and a lot of times in ones that are this clean you don't even need a wrench on the end here and this one I do need a wrench so we'll go real easy and I see it is separating so I think we're going to be fine on this one ball bearing feels good so let's get the rotor bolt out this should be a 10 mm bolt in diameter and there's usually threads in here it takes an M12 1.75 so most likely I'll use some water to build hydraulic pressure to get it off but first i'm just going to loosen the bolt I'll hit it a couple times the hammer sometimes that'll PP it off you know if it's going to happen it'll happen pretty quick otherwise we'll resort to using some water there we go So the plan is three lb hammer hit that a few times don't go crazy cuz you can bend the bolt and of course if you miss you've destroyed the rotor that's it [Music] [Applause] I think I'm going to pull off the blower housing the noise might be coming from the flywheel as opposed to something internal so just want to double check that [Music] just going to rotate the engine manually and I was hoping that there was going to be some contact between the flywheel and the coil I'm not seeing that the nut seems to be tight and there's no excessive play on the crankshaft so I guess that's good it does seem a little bit more quiet without the blower housing on so it actually may have been hitting the starter recoil if you look on this cup here it's really shiny so that could have been it cuz it's not super loud like it was before so I'm going to put the blower housing back on just rotate it a bit I think that might have been the issue yeah I'd say the noises back let's get this [Applause] out nope still loud I was hoping it was the starter cup cuz that is very suspicious it just seems a lot louder with the blower housing on anyway I'm going to keep going I think blower housing needs to come off the head needs to come off and really everything needs to be torn down soz if this engine has any chance everything needs to be thoroughly cleaned before reassembly [Music] [Music] for cylinder doesn't look too bad I was actually worried that it was going to be all hacked up from the little bits of metal but that is not the case I don't see or feel any imperfections so that's good I would say the top end can be saved may have spoken too soon I thought this was just an oil ring down here but that is not the case there's actually damage on the cylinder going around and I can feel it so yeah it's not looking good for this engine you I can see some crosshatch here near the top uh but there is also some scarring on the left and the rest of it looks pretty good but yeah the fact is that is not a great thing you know I'm sure the engine would run like that but for how long anyway the head looks in decent shape so I have no concerns about that does need to be cleaned up anyway let's get the cover off the engine and see what are the surprises are [Music] inside [Music] wow that is really bad so I think I know why this engine was stuck I mean there's bits of metal for sure in here but I think this is rust in corrosion wow that is far worse than I imagined so this is the cam shaft in question you can see the lobe here there is very little left and that one's not far behind but yeah look at that that is really bad so this engine at one point I would say had water in it you can see right right there there is a line going across so it was deep and water and actually look at the taets tons of corrosion and pitting and that's why the cam shaft wore down in this case they're in really really bad shape so yeah this engine I mean the guy said it was stuck and he freed it up and then he sold it and I can see why it was stuck this is just a counterbalance weight it's pretty bad I was hoping to rebuild this or at least Salvage a few good parts inside but yeah I'm thinking that's not the case now let's get the connecting rod disconnected we'll take a look at the journal on the crank and see if this is in any good shape at all but I kind of doubt it I can't say it completely makes sense that stain I mean this is an aluminum block so that's wouldn't be rust from the aluminum it's really odd not terrible actually so there's hope that maybe there's one usable part yeah journal's not in good shape we got some scarring right there and yeah really all around these gears also look pretty chewed up and the ball bearing surprisingly doesn't feel bad I'm not sure how anyway let's get a look at that piston I wouldn't say it's great but given the rest of the engine this actually doesn't look half bad surprisingly the Rings they're not stuck doesn't seem like there's any excessive play on the pin so yeah we might have one usable part from the inside of this engine so yeah I think it's time to look at Plan B it's just crazy that anything could do this to an engine and yeah I'm kind of second guessing myself as far as what did this I don't think water would have created a stain like that and it kind of smells a bit like bad fuel I'm not sure but it's pretty bad whatever did it so where do we go from here I mean this engine it can be salvaged I would say a majority of it is going to be recycled and we have basically an entire generator in Parts up here on the lift and nowhere to go but I do have a plan B I have other engines and one of them is right here on this gener GP 5000 this one is missing a lot it has a bad power head I've tested it the rotor is bad we're missing the tank the handles the feet the wheels the carburetor the airbox and the starter recoil but the engine turns over and has compression so I think this one will run and it's actually a low hour engine according to the hour meter there's only 41.2 hours on this machine so yeah despite the looks with all this aluminum oxide I'm willing to bet the internals of this engine are in much better shape than the one we just opened up so I'm going to pause it here I'm going to get the power head off much the same way as I did on this one and once I've harvested the engine and have it up on the lift we'll start putting this thing back [Applause] [Music] together I yeah surprisingly this engine block cleaned up pretty well there wasn't really any rust on the blower housing and not really as much aluminum oxide as I thought you know there is some but a lot of it was dirt and dust anyway the next move here I'm going to get the power head installed we'll get it wired up and we'll get the engine connected enough meaning we'll get a carbon we'll get the governor hooked up and a starter recoil I'm not going to make this thing 100% because this engine I've never heard it run and that power head I have never seen make power so until I know the core is good you know I don't want to spend a bunch of time making this thing perfect I've got a wrench on the flywheel nut holding this crank shaft still so this bolt on this generator gets torque to 29 foot- PBS for [Music] and before torquing it down just make sure these feet are level with the surface and make sure the ball bearing is fully seated and in this case it's not quite fully seated so I'm going to go easy torquing this down you know as far as I can tell the Stater is in the bell housing so it should pull it in and once it's torqued down I'm going to take the spark plug out and just pull the engine over I want to make sure the alignment is right because the clearance between the rotor and the Stater is Tiny it's like thousands of an inch and a slight misalignment the two will make contact and the generator will quickly burn up so you want to double check that before trying to start it the stator should get torqued between 80 and 120 inbs going to first bring it up to 40 and then I'll bring it up to 90 all right everything's torqued to 40 inch pounds I can see the ball bearing is now seated so I'm going to bring it up now to the full amount that I'm going to do which is 90 inch pounds the bad engine is donating its starter recoil and we'll donate a few other parts including the carburetor and the airbox and I'm sure a few other things just listen carefully when pulling the engine over make sure you don't hear any scraping between the rotor and stator or even work any binding the engine should pull over nice and easy with no compression since that spark plug is removed perfect it's interesting the plug that came on this generator was an NGK bp6es which seems like the right plug but the connection here does not match you need an end like this so This plug is from the bad engine and this top is not removable I could clean this up and reuse it but I'd rather use this one this one looks to be in much better shape or maybe I have another one that is the correct part so let me take a quick look let's see what I have for plugs the BP 6E it's a very common size that I see on generator so I I'm sure I have a bunch in here yeah in fact we got one right here bp6 e bp6 e and bp6 all brand new so let's take this one and we'll save these for another day and never assume the Gap is good even though it's a new plug a lot of times they get bent in shipping and the Gap can be way off so on this engine you want it at about 30,000 or Just a Touch under and in this case I think we're [Music] good this engine was is actually missing the insulator so before connecting the wiring back up I just want to test it real quick to see if this is a floating neutral or a bonded neutral generator and usually they are bonded to neutral at least this type of generator inverters are usually floating uh these can also be floating as well and you want to know which type you have because when connecting to the house you want to have a floating neutral and usually that's not the case so got the multimeter set up just just to make an audible sound when there continuity so between this white wire and this white wire we should get a connection which we do cuz these are both neutral and this is the ground wire the green with the yellow so if it's a bonded neutral we'll get a beep when we connect it to the white and we do so if you wanted to connect this to your house you'd have to break that Bond and for this generator that bond is actually up in the control panel so it's it's not a simple task a lot of times they do have the bond down in the generator head where they literally run a jumper from neutral to ground so if you want to break that Bond you remove the jumper and then you have a floating neutral which is probably the way to go because they actually sell special plugs that you can plug into the control panel that'll Bond the ground to neutral so it's much easier just have a floating neutral and plug that adapter in when you need a bonded and then just unplug it when you need it to be floating in this case bonded I'm sure that's the way it's supposed to be out of the box so I'm going to leave it like that and it will be up to the next owner to make any adjustments needed depending upon how they're going to use it and look at that the insulation it's coming down to far on the terminal that one looks fine up there these are pretty close to too far down but I'd say they're okay that one's an issue so I'm going to cut it back just a bit and this does seem to be a common problem I've seen on a lot of generators these terminals here coming from the stator they're really too big for these terminals you see how much slop there is and with this insulation coming down onto the area that's supposed to clamp you could get in a situation where that actually acts as a spacer like an insulating spacer and then you're going to have issues with power output so I'm just going to cut this back a tiny bit and we should be good to continue I think that'll be okay use care when tightening all these bolts down here they're really small they strip out easy if you use a ratchet you might strip it out if you use a power tool you'll definitely strip them out this here is the input to the AVR there's four wires two blue that's the excitation winding that's what supplies power to the AVR the red on the white is the output to the brushes it is polarity sensitive so you want the red wire which is positive to go on the left brush terminal and then the white wire goes on the other side and last but not least we need to hook up this plate here for engine Cooling and this is also the governor spring which holds the throttle open without this the generator at best will only idle it feels pretty good but I am going to back off the tension a little just to make sure especially when reinstalling this you know it might change the orientation a little bit I'd rather have it running a little slow to start with check the oil real quick because we're at the point where this thing should start and we do have oil but it is low so I think instead of adding oil I'm just going to change it fill it up with some fresh stuff and then we'll try this thing out it's surprising that it's low in oil with only 41 hours on the engine this could be the break-in oil I'm not so sure that oil do look really clean all right you missed it but I topped it off with oil it took just over 1.1 quarts of oil so I think we're ready so let's give this a try [Music] [Music] just filling up the bowl should run the engine long enough to hear what it sounds like to know if the car runs the engine well and see if the generator is any good so it looks like we're full and we are leaking but I think that was just some fuel dripping down the side of the hose so let's give it a try I've got the light hooked up the kilowatt plugged in let's see if this thing works all right here goes nothing ignition on choke on and nothing let's try it with the choke off no signs of life let's check for spark so hopefully it's just a spark issue and not something else I mean the carb could have issues too so let's try this yeah we got plenty of spark so that is not the issue let me try a little bit of starting fluid and try this again there we go it's kind of a tight fit but I don't think the boot was on there properly let's try it again take two get the Nish on choke on [Applause] had me worried there for a second when the engine showed no signs of Life thankfully it did come to life and the engine sounds really good and we're making power so overall things are looking pretty good I think the carb though is another story I had to leave the choke mostly on to keep the engine running well so let's get that carburetor off and clean it up all right let's take a look in here don't think it's going to be too bad so engine at least runs on half choke yeah there's some junk in there not too bad but it it needs a cleaning that stuff will clog up the main jet needle looks good let's see if we can get that main jet out yep that's the emulsion tube and the main jet let's see if it's clogged I would say probably not nope it's not clogged and theemotion Tube doesn't look bad either so the only thing left here is the pilot jet and so far I'm not really seeing anything then other than a little bit of debris in that bowl so it's possible it's not the carb it could be an intake leak you know potentially that insulator I installed or one of the gaskets on either side of the insulator and the fact that I didn't have an airbox on doesn't help either it's going to run the engine a little lean but usually it'll run pretty well pilot jet it's hard to tell but I don't don't think it's clogged either so yeah nothing obviously wrong with this carburetor anyway let's just go through it make sure it's clean we'll dip it in the ultrasonic for a bit and we'll try it again there are several small holes here on the side uh the front one actually looked like it was a little bit clogged that one is in front of the throttle plate so that is the main pilot jet that keeps things running when it's idling and there's a few other holes and as the throttle opens it exposes more of those allowing more fuel in so those are pretty critical that they be clear when the engine's idling or even when it's running fast with no load on it and these always Supply fuel whether the engine's running fast or slow so if these are clogged up it'll impact its performance at any speed the pilot jet was a little clogged for sure the wire wasn't going through initially now it goes through without an issue so that might have been it and for the main jet I'm just going to use a micro drill bit not to drill it out I just want to find the largest one that fits and use it to scrape off the plaque that may or may not be on the side walls it's a pretty big jet number 62 fits and 61 now fits it did not fit a second ago so yeah Main Jet it was a little restricted that should do it want to give these a quick try on the pilot jet this was sent to me by a subscriber and these are actually I believe used in root canals this particular one it is a tapered file from 20 to 30 mm and I believe will fit in the pilot chat so we give that a quick try yeah fits in there just fine and the fact that it's tapered is really good too it'll fit a lot of different size Jets so not bad for yeah cleaned up pretty well let's get it back together we'll start with the emulsion tube and the main jet the needle I do not put through through the ultrasonic the solution I use the Harbor Freight super heavy duty degrease a it tends to shrink Rubber and the needle is not something you want to shrink so it was not leaking before and I did not want to cause a leak make sure the pilot jet is fully seated like that this is just a spacer and then the idle set screw holds this whole thing down and this generator does not idle so you do not need to drive the screw in very far just a couple threads should stick out on the other side just like that so let's try it out all right I've got the carb reinstalled and fueled up so let's give it a quick try let's see if we can get it to start in one pull and turn that choke fully off I would call that a pass started first pull and the engine ran well so let's get the airbox on although I think I just destroyed this gasket so we'll put a one of those on it's actually not too bad but I've got more for probably should have installed this after the back was on but not the front of the airbox anyway this is just the Breather it connects the valve cover over to the airbox to recirculate some of the blowby in the engine that should do it really isn't that bad in there I am going to drain it though and put some of appar rust in there and just let it sit overnight to clean it up a little bit more there's still a little bit of fuel in the tank that's not coming out so I'm going to get the fuel petcock off and just drain off the last bit I also noticed this fuel petcock it's not the right part it only excepts quter inch line the carburetor is 316 so that is going to have to be swapped out it's probably a good thing we pulled that out the filter is clogged up with rust that's why the tank wouldn't fully drain [Music] it's definitely a good thing I remove that filter a lot of rust came out and you can see the color of this fuel is not nearly as good as the first bit that came out that said this is still good fuel it can be cleaned up so I'm going to filter the cleaner stuff with a coffee filter and this stuff I'm going to pre- filter with a paper towel and then I'll try a coffee filter the coffee filters work really well but they also clog up really easily with this amount of debris in the fuel nasty going to put this back on minus the fuel filter just to hold the evaporust in the tank [Music] so remember what it looks like I'm going to give it about 12 hours then we'll check in on it while I'm waiting for the evapor us to do its thing I'm going to pull this hour meter out and move it on over since this is the one that goes with that engine that's on the other frame now plus the meter on the other frame does not even work for we're actually at the 24hour Mark after 12 hours I didn't notice a huge difference and at the 24-hour Mark yeah it's hard to tell I wouldn't say it's dramatic the difference certainly not worse anyway I'm going to let it sit I'd say at least for another 24 hours and check back we're at the 48h hour mark and things are looking pretty good all the rust is gone at this point so I think it's time to get that evaporust out of there going to install a new fuel petcock it has the correct 316 Barb on it as well as a new fuel filter [Music] [Music] a little bit of WD40 makes that fuel line slide right into into place as far as the tank vent goes I'm going to leave it just attached to the frame rail here most tanks just have a vented cap I think this system is most likely a result of some California legislation where in theory I guess it's a little better because it recirculates it through the engine but generators they're off most of the time and when it's off it's just venting to atmosphere and the engine that's on here is 13 years old it only has 41 hours on it so yeah most of the time it's not doing anything useful alluded to an issue here earlier that we were missing the bushing for the tank and I do have a bunch from old generators that didn't make it and this one I think is the right size so as long as we have three more of those which it looks like we do then we should be good to go one of the more important parts make sure you secure this wire here because it can get sucked into the rotor and it'll destroy your power head so I usually use a zip tie like this where it can be attached like there with a bolt if you don't have that just a zip tie around these two wires should be enough to keep it in place and maybe one right here too for this protective film has been on here for quite a while and at some point it doesn't like to come off and I think we've passed that point so I'm going to fight with this for a minute [Music] all right it is the Moment of Truth we know the engine runs we know the generator makes power but can it pull 5,500 Watts you know that is what we're going to find out now so we're going to start the engine we'll let it warm up a bit and then we'll slowly bring the load up to the max a 5500 watts which is just shy of 23 amps at 240 volts so we get the ignition on fuel and choke on so we're actually starting off pretty good at about 4 or 5% THD voltage is 243 volts and the Hertz they're actually a little bit slow at 58 Herz so let's bring that up to 61 1/2 Hertz and check back all right so now according to the m probe we're at 61.5 Hertz 244 volts and the THD is at 4.7% all right so let's bring a load on now going to start at 2,000 plus another th000 so we're now at 3,000 Watts we're holding fine at 241 volts the THD came up quite a bit to 20% and the hurts just fine at 60.4 all right let's go for the max going to swap 1,000 for 2,000 so we're now up 4,000 watts 5, 5500 and you can see we're just at 23 amps voltage is fine at 240 volts Herz 59.2 the [Music] THD 21.9 not too bad it's doing pretty well with the rated load let's try 6,000 wats no issues so out of curiosity let's try 60 500 W so we'll bring it up back to 6,000 65 nope that's too much so it can do 6,000 still when the circuit breaker holds but overall not too bad so overall this thing performed pretty well I mean without a load we started at 244 volts and under under a full load it held at 240 volts so very little movement in the voltage uh the engine speed also did very well at no load we were at 612 Hertz and under a full load we dropped a bit to about 592 Hertz so the engine's doing very well you know I actually was able to hold 6,000 Watts without issue it wasn't until 6,500 Watts where we started to lose engine speed now the THD you know I thought for a second there we might end up with a clean machine you know it started at about 4% harmonic Distortion but it quickly went up under 3,000 Watts it jumped to 20% and under a full load of 5,500 Watts it came up to 22% so yeah not great for sensitive Electronics you know pretty typical though of what you would get today in this price range so yeah in the end this generator turned out pretty well you know it was a gamble going into it but you know I always had a plan B you know I had that other gener that had basically an engine and nothing else then we had this which was complete but had a possible engine problem and of course as we found out it had a very serious problem now this isn't the first gener I've worked on that has had issues with the cam and actually all of those had issues internally with rust and in this case it kind kind of looked like varnish so I'm kind of wondering here if it's a materials issue you know is this stuff just rusting out real easy you know or maybe is it an oil issue you know I don't know if these machines came with oil when they were new you know potentially it was the original oil that was in the original engine and maybe it went bad which caused all that damage you know I am not really sure but I fairly confident that it wasn't water you know I don't think this was underwater I don't think the engine had water in it you know I think something went wrong chemically with the oil that was in there but I'm not sure so let me know in the comments what you think anyway I hope this video helps someone thanks for watching w

Channel: James Condon

Views: 236,628

Keywords: 389cc, 420cc, Alternator, Backfiring, Bad Oil, Bonded Neutral, Camshaft, Carburetor Clean, Engine Damage, Engine Swap, Exhaust Valve Not Opening, Fixed, Generac, Generator Head Install, Generator, Hertz, Honda Clone, How To, How-To, Load Test, Repair, Rust in Fuel Tank, Rust, Small Engine, Troubleshooting, Ultrasonic Cleaner, Varnish, Will Not Start, Wire Insulation, Won't Run, Worn Camshaft, Worn Lobes

Id: OkucZvAR8TE

Length: 91min 47sec (5507 seconds)

Published: Thu Dec 07 2023