Volkswagen Audi Variable Timing Explained

we bought a first blue box over 10 years ago and we can use an auto logic ever since I'm Edward Wong we're here at inspect performance Lindenhurst we do have two other locations and spec middle village and essential auto care we rpm SS we do work on all European makes and models and we also work on domestics and Asian imports I used to think that I didn't need help you know but as you grow in the industry you you just realized that you know she can't do it by yourself it's impossible as a technician you know a lot of times we're working on more than one beat but at the same time so if I have a an issue with the vehicle I can put a claim in and then move on to my next car and and work on that while I'm waiting for a callback we have a pretty large staff so I'd say that we are able to request support multiple times a day support to me is all-encompassing Auto logic does help with training which is huge in our industry on top of being able to diagnose code and having dealer level abilities and in a non dealer tool a repair shop definitely needs technical support we we in our industry like to think that we know everything but with the pace at which our industry is evolving you can't know everything it's impossible and having that technical support there really allows you to confidently go into any job you welcome everybody to Volkswagens webinar on Volkswagen or Auto logics webinar on Volkswagen Audi variable cam timing my name is Chris Martino we're gonna be going through some stuff tonight um if you have any questions feel free to ask them we got some people in the chat that can help you out if you have any questions for me ask me I'll see what I can do so without any further ado we should get started here just give me one second we're gonna change some stuff around and we are gonna do this okay and let's do this i turn my screen off okay and let's launch this alright so volkswagen volt a variable valve timing and you let's get started on one second there we go so next slide whoa here we go alright so we're gonna start with one of the problems here this is the bearing bridge for this car what it is it's basically a die cast aluminum bridge it's not into the front of the camshafts i what this does is this um draw some pictures here what this does is this carries the oil whoa whoa let's go try that again this carries the oil from the cylinder head up and into the camshafts alright so it's actually a very important part when replacing this generally when you take when you take them off you generally replace them because they're different they're prone to breakage let's move on a little bit so this is basically the heart of the system here all right so what you have in here is you have your cam magnet all right what that does is that is actually a a solenoid type magnet that pushes a little rod inside a little valve that's right here let's give her some lists over here pushes a little valve that goes inside your phaser right here alright it's a very complicated and convoluted set up here and all it really does is control the oil flow inside your phaser and allows you timing to move backwards and forwards alright so we'll read a little bit about what it does and also if you want inside on the side on your side menu over there you see you should have a file download in your download is going to be a book for the whole volkswagen two liter 1.8 engine download that and save that it gives gives you everything more than what we're going to cover tonight it's going to give you tips and tricks how everything works it'll actually cover a little more than what we are doing tonight all right let's move on a little bit more so so again we're gonna cover it the way this work the way though the heart of the system works here is the computer controls this solenoid right here alright it's a pulse width modulated signal and it allows that allows them the magnet to move and open up to a varied amount pushing on your oil valve and that oil valve in turn moves your camshaft adjuster it's basically as simple as simple as it can get we're going to go into that a little bit more on the next couple slides let's go take a look so this is basically what we're looking at over here over here is the cam magnet that we were looking at alright what I what I did it on this side is because a lot of people when they when they talk about these systems they're they're kind of confused because it's all broken up but one thing a lot of us really know about is this little guy right there alright that's a Toyota very the VVT actuator it's basically the same for pretty much any system any variable valve timing system that you would see but what about Walt's wagon gate is instead of mounting this in a cylinder head and oil passage is going to the I'm going to an adjuster they put it all in one little package but you can see if you look at it it's basically the same thing the solenoid is here solenoid is here and the actual adjusting valve is here that's literally all it is and so what they did is they screwed it right in to the front of the king of the camshaft making the job that much easier to diagnose all right let's move on this right here is the camshaft phasor all right on on the volkswagen two leaders some of the earlier earlier ones the chain drive two liter engines you're gonna the intake cam is going to be the only one that adjusts the later generation three models it's gonna be intake and exhaust cam that adjust but it's gonna all work similarly it's all the same alright so what you have is what I'm pointing to right here it's one it's one hole where oil flows in from the camera just that we were talking about before and you have another hole which again flows in from the camera adjuster those are your oil inlet holes alright and you can see if you've seen the threads that are inside right here these little guys right there that's a reverse thread that that camshaft adjusting valve screws into so what happens is seeking to you see see it here lines up so you can see that your oil holes line up as they move it's actually a pretty simple system your camshaft adjusting valves screw right into the camshaft adjuster alright and I have a picture here of what everything looks like all together so seeing it kind of like this it kind of makes sense so what happens is the camshaft magnet pushes this little nub in right there all right that little nubbin moves a little block off right here and right there depending on if we want to advance or time and retarding timings basically cutting oil pressure off letting a bleed down okay that's basically all that's all about so what I did here is I took the cover off of a camshaft adjuster all right they don't they recommend you to actually replace them but if you actually just remove these bolts here and have the special socket not like what I had where I just hammer it in a regular torque socket but you can actually take the you can take the cover right off and inside this actually there's really nothing inside here all right you have your veins here which oil pumps up on either side of these guys either retarding or advancing your timing okay and then you have this little guy right there that little guy is actually your little lock pin alright that guy with that horrible blurry picture that's your lock pin all right the lock pins job is when oil pressure is bled out of the system it locks the cam to its most position sometimes what happens we'll get into this a little later if sludge builds up and lock it out but that's basically all the parts that are in this let's go back a little bit let me erase let me erase some stuff here go back here okay go back here we go all right the one thing that is not shown in here is right in this spot right here right in that little air in those little areas right there our little tension Springs alright those tension Springs what their job is is to keep constant tension and a nice gap between this surface and the vein itself what sometimes happens you see this earlier two liter Volkswagen engines more of the belt drive in the front with a chain in the back the the spring will actually break come out and wedge and you'll actually get a either lock to advance or to our or not able to reach your adjusted timing code and really sometimes all that is is the spring popped out again they don't really sell replacement parts for this but you know between you and me and the hole in the wall I've taken the spring out and I've been okay so moving on a little bit again this is this is the lock pin we were talking about again that lock pin is very important we'll get to it so the lock pin that we see right here is I have it sitting right here alright what the lock pin does is it goes in and locks the adjustment part of the housing to the back part of the housing that does not move it brings everything and locked it together okay now what happens at about 7 psi let's go to the next slide at about 7 psi oil goes in from the camshaft adjuster housing goes into this channel here flows up and fills up right here alright and when that when that oil fills up it pushes the pin back and the cams are allowed to float alright this is a great thing but if you look at if you look at the design you can see an inherent problem or inherent flaw in that design the oil that's a debt that's a dead end path for the oil if you're using wrong oil incorrect oil junk oil or extended extended service intervals the sludge likes to build up in dead ends and that's a giant dead end path right there all right so the O what happens over time and over getting hot in the turbo breaking down the oil sludge will build up in that path and it allow that pin not to fully lock and over time what will happen is you'll get codes that'll say cam shot intake camshaft setpoint not being able to be reached something that alright and what that general is is these are a sludge buildup or the actual hole will be worn out one of the things you can do to check that is pull the plastic timing cover off of the front of the engine and try to move this part of the camshaft if you can move this part of the camshaft and this guy here stays still then you know you got a problem with either an oblong hole or or the or the lock pin itself alright these these this series of engine right here the camshaft adjuster is not replaceable separate from the camshaft so if you have a problem with your adjuster you get a free camshaft with it earlier engines the first generation 2-liter um were replaceable separate and you could and it was much easier to replace so what we can see right here is a front look of everything taken off but the but the vanes still in there and then you can see the sweep so you can see with the oil flowing through this hole right here it pushes it pushes this vane up here up against the housing right here and that gives you your full position and then over here you can see the oil over here pushing it back and if you look we see a gap right there so allow that oil to flow either way no matter which way it wants to go we have any questions before moving on hmm nothing that I can see alright so let's move on a little bit alright so a few of you read in the description and operation before it says the camshaft adjuster gives you 60 degrees of crankshaft adjustment and I want to know how it gets there so I got a little nerdy with it and I broken I broke it all down so you can see the phaser allows for 14th of full adjustment alright this Camp Chef sprocket has 46 teeth if you do the math 360 degrees which is all the way around a circle divided by 46 teeth you get seven point eight two degrees of cam shaft angle per tooth multiply that by the fourteenth of total adjustment that means you get 31 point two to eight degrees of camshaft adjustment multiplies that by two for rotation of crankshaft and there's your sixty degrees pretty simple if you break it down right okay talking to myself so what I did here is I took the took all the plates and everything off you have the snout of your camshaft right here right next to the camshaft adjusting valve all right so you can see so erase all this stuff here okay go back to the pen so this is the camshaft adjuster valve lined up to its respective ports in the actuated position here you can see the valves allow allowing oil in where they would flow into those particular holes and then again here you would see them deactivated it's a coat what's a cool side by side because go back and forth kind of see them activated not activated really cool all right moving on so some of the basic tests you can do one of the easiest test is to make sure that your actual and specified camshaft adjustment angle are within the degree of - all right generally you'd find that measure value block 91 that's generally my go-to on this and you want to see there your actual and specified on this particular car running at idle alright both both commanded at 28 degrees of crank angle alright what happens now let's say what happens if it's not there or you see your your actual can't meet your specified or your actual can't even stay the same or what you would generally do at that point is you would Rev the idle up see if it can match that let and let it go down and just see if see how long it takes to deal with it all right if it's if it's moving a little bit that tells me we're dealing with maybe like an oil flow problem or something like that man next step would be check the oil check the oil pressure see if that's good if we see that it's not moving at all then and then we check for like a camshaft adjuster magnet not working or something like that oil restriction is a very big deal in these engines as we'll see in a little bit what we looking at here is the the bearing bridge removed from the car and you'll see right here that little guy right there is a big problem that is the oil screen in the camshaft bearing bridge all right when you take these off or if you're suspecting a timing problem say you're you get a code for your timing not reached or a stuck-at band stuck or your going and checking your measure value block nine to one and you see that the actual specified they can't quite meet each other or it takes a long time first thing you're gonna want to do is pull this and pull this bearing bridge off and look to make sure that screen is there if it is not there or missing like that we got ourselves a problem because when our next slide will see it what happens with these is the bearing bridge screen goes right here oil pumps up and in through that camshaft adjuster valve and the can't and the camshaft itself so if you have pieces of tiny tiny little pieces of screen like this I mean it's it's this one like if you touch it it just falls apart and all those go in through the valve and up and if you have tiny tiny pieces caught inside either the adjuster or inside the camshaft itself or inside the the phasor that can make your timing problems much much worse all right here's another thing to look out for the camshaft button or they give a four-three valve or the kids a solenoid adjuster valve whatever you want to call it if you're having timing faults and you and you suspect the problem one of the easiest one of the easiest tests to do is take the camshaft magnet out and look at that button if it's stuck out like you just cook the Thanksgiving turkey that's the problem that should be nice and flush like this guy right here all right that's just one thing to look for another thing is if they're stuck in the hole of the complete other way that's a problem as well already moving on so how can we test if all this is working properly some scan tools allow you to perform some form of output test almost all of these tools will not let you do that do this while the vehicle is running on top of that some tools they'll timeout and you must wait hours to test again with the engine off the output test will tell you if the computer is able to control the system it will not tell you how well the system operates and that's true some tools the auto logic tool can go and you can run output tests all day long as long as it has it there you can run the test some tools like I used to use a launch all the time you get about what you get one test if it has it and you run through the test and if you don't have everything ready you're locked out for a couple hours there's nothing you can do but again even that you can't actually this camshaft to justify while they keep other vehicles running it just won't let you so how can we test if this working well what I do as I grab my AAS wave front probe set this what this what this kit has it has almost every different type of connector that is in and out in an automobile where you can front probe it you can also do pin drag tests which are very important we'll speak on that and further webinars but you cannot so build your own little breakout box kinda but what I love to use it for is actually activating component separately without shoving a power CRO or a test light in that connector making more problems moving on what you're gonna need is a diagram in this case I just pulled an aftermarket diagram off showing the entire vehicle so we got four pages of diagram here showing pretty much everything all right but what I'm what I'm looking at is what I want to see how far the camshaft is able to be able to adjust on a run on a running vehicle what this will tell me and this will tell me if I'm meeting that 60 degrees that we proved before that this is actually able to make so it should be able to make it with with oil pressure what are things that can impede that what we talked about pieces that screen being broken the spring in that interphase are being broken sludge could be broken a lot and uh causing a lot of problems than this bad oil pressure stuff like that and I want to be able to if I have a timing code and I see that my chain timing is on point then I want to make sure my variable valve timing is fine because your timing is read from the camshaft in the crankshaft not the timing chain so you're available variable valve timing has to be working because that's where the computer reads it from so there's I'm gonna want to check this from the either cam center crank sensor and I need something to reference it again on sometimes these cars the crank sensor especially on a front-wheel drive like a Volkswagen or something like that the can't the crank sensor is gonna be really tough to get to so I opted to go I want to try to go use the cam sensor okay so we're going to tap into the signal wire the PCA for the PCM for that sensor what that'll do is it'll put a signal and let me know that the cam sensor is working if you don't if you don't know which wire it is yeah you can look look at the diagram anything there's an easy way to tell it all right if you can see that's a three wire signal so you know you're gonna have a power a ground and then a signal return all right you can see that these two wires are spliced together so those can't be the signal wire and also see that those two are splice together so that can't be the signal wire so that believes the only one to be correct so we have a question from Samuel Bain he says so the top piece is magnetic correct if so why have a magnet like when it is actuated by oil pressure great question the top piece is in fact magnets it's it's an electromagnet all right it's an electromagnetic solenoid so when when the solenoid is activated it pushes a pin let me go back to that picture here that's a great question let's go back to it to do where are we I'm here all right so this is what you're talking about the top piece this is an electromagnetic solenoid when the solenoid is activated there is a little pin right there all right that pin shoots out and pushes that rod right there so if the electromagnet magnet goes bad you're not gonna get oil pressure also if you have oil pressure that's bad you can push you could push this all day long if there's no oil pressure you're not going to be able to make enough pressure to move these adjusters that's a great question we have another question from Jonathan he asks what all change interval do you recommend oil brand we use liqui moly at the shop I work at John so do i I personally love local moly I put it in everything I own I'm not really you know I'm not I'm not getting paid for anybody for saying this but liqui moly I found is an expensive oil but what I've seen in some cars is cars that have a lot of sludge build up you'll actually start cleaning the salt and cleaning it out I my car I Drive personally has 250,000 miles I've been I've been having bunny liqui moly in it for about five years now if you take it apart it looks like a brand new car I trust that stuff is as far as intervals Volkswagen Audi BMW they only specify these long intervals personally I don't trust it five thousand miles is what I do I don't care what they say it's not gonna hurt me to put a little extra oil in it mm great question it's let's see so we have Andrew says so if that screen is broken should you be replacing everything including bridge phasers and solenoids awesome question if that screen is broken first thing you're gonna do is look for all the pieces if you can't find the pieces then you go hunting general rule of thumb with that with that bearing bridge even though the screen is replaceable even new the new bearing bridges that come without the screen because it's such a problem because Volkswagen seems to love their screens well you know later on we'll get to talk about balance shafts that'll tear an engine up but that's a whole nother problem yes where was I yes rule of thumb with the bearing bridge if I'm taking the bolts off of it it's getting a new baron bridge because it's just so it's just so sensitive if the screen is broken maybe you're lucky and everything is just lying right in that little hole if not you got to find the pieces and that part's gonna suck unfortunately you got to go hunt up hopefully you find them all hopefully find them in the housing hopefully they're not caught in the phasor alright great question so let's move on to where we were so we were about say here all right so we're getting away how to how to find the signal wire without having without you know without knowing or taking things apart so again a good after market diagram like this there's a really good way to check it because it shows everything that spliced together all right um I want to reference this I want to reference this with with ignition ignition sink you can use the crank sensor if you want if you can get to it but I need something that was repeatable so I figured I'll go to the number one ignition coil Souls you can see that it's basically the same same process of elimination if you don't know which one it is off we're already generally it's uh this wire right there but you can see that it can't be this wire because it's being shared it can't be this wire because it's being shared it can't be that wire because it's being shared because only that guy right there simple enough so this is how I have it set up right here just like this I have one channel of my lab scope hooked to a power probe that I'm going to be actuated the solenoid with all right I also want to know when I'm activating the solenoid so I put it like I said I put a channel on the power probe and the other the other end of the power probe of my power probe one because I don't believe anything more than that the other tip of the power probe goes into the solenoid power and ground the other channel that I have goes to my number one ignition coil right here just tapped into the wire Pierce gen don't worry I cleaned it up when I was done and then the third channel which you can barely see you can barely make it out because it's underneath my mirror because I'm a goes right to the camp sensor which is right here like I said this this is the easiest quickest way to test this thing because you're right up top you're not lifting the car up you're not going crazy the most you're doing is pulling the little plastic annoying cover off the top of the engine alright so again you see I have I'm time I'm into the signal wire of the of the ignition coil number one right there now what I wanted to also do is the camshaft adjuster valve that magnet you want to get into that and actually actuate it now do you have to go this far no one thing you can do that some people do is actually take off the cam magnet which lives right here run the car and press the button in that the mag that would normally press with with it with like a pencil or your finger or something like that something that won't get hurt it actually activated but I want to be able to record the whole adjustment event so that way I just go I'll hook my scope up to it and activate it with the power probe that way I know what's happening all right so basically what we're gonna do is hook up to the camera shutter valve which is right here this is basically what I'm gonna do I'm gonna disconnect it hook up my power probe and what I did is I made sure to use these front probe can I made sure to use front probing connectors right here all right if you want to go and use alligator clips and everything you take you run the risk in a tight spot like this of shorting something together and then causing yourself problems so I like to again I like to use front probe connector so I know I'm making a good contact and there's no way the wires can touch all right just like this all right so I'm set up I start up the car all right and all I'm gonna do is I'm gonna run the car and just hit my power probe you're not gonna stay on it if you stay on it you could cause a problem to the solenoid you could start the car so you'll run the car and just click the power pop pop pop pop that's it that's all you need it's all it needs all right and as long as you're recording this is what you can see all right you can see this and I have this on a Pico scope and actually if you if you look now we have a special offer that's going on with this with this webinar you get a free pico scope with a purchase of a drive pro to do stuff like this if you don't have a Pico or don't have a scope that's a great scope great scope to use it actually works well with everything that we do here but going back to the webinar you see that we can see our blue trace is the cam sensor signal you can see the the ignition cognition module signals are in the red and when activated the power probe is in green now you can see this is why I wanted to do hook the scope up to it so I know when I adjusted it because if I just went and moved everything I wouldn't know when it was moved all right so what I wanted to do is you can see a complete timing adjustment event you can see the ignition moving in relation to the camshaft is the power probe is activated and so I want to measure this so I'm gonna put cursors right here these guys right there um add an ignition but before and after I activate the power probe so I can see how much it moved now you can actually see and we go race let me erase this on my slide a little bit as you can see if you look oh go back let's do this one more time here we go you can see right here the red is every time the ignition coil is firing now that's going to move in relation to the camshaft and you can see that that this is in the same spot as this spot but here is what here is when I press the power probe and you can see if you look the red spot in relation to the blue is changing as time goes to here so you can see that it's adjusting alright so again you can see where I activate the power probe just remember you want to activate the power probe in short little bursts because you want to stall it install the vehicle or damaged the solenoid we're only checking here all right now you can see we're measuring two thousand eight hundred and eighty degrees of crankshaft rotation if we use a rotation rulers how do we get here number one ignition fires every 720 degrees right so you know we get two revolutions of the crank is one full ignition want one full compress combustion of n all right we're measuring now we're measuring the ignition events between the cursors there's four of them there so 4 times 720 is 2880 so in a Pico you'll put up what you're gonna measure right here and then from everything the way the Pico works is everything that you adjust from your rotational rulers will adjust from this point and again if you want to learn more about this will do more picoscope videos in the future but for now let's just follow along now again we want to have something to reference against so I'm you know I'm gonna reference against this little first small pulse in every single cam adjustment event because it doesn't move in relation to the timing so it's also you can zoom in and you can actually see they could see it if you zoom in a little bit further alright those two spots we're gonna measure we're gonna measure before it starts moving and we're gonna measure it at its furthermost point when it's activated alright so here's that spot we zoomed in and here's the spot we told you we're gonna reference against the first small pulse and you can see the ignition event takes place a hundred and twenty two point seven degrees of crank rotation after the reluctor pulse how did we get this again we're talking about rotational rulers if you set up your rotational rulers if you put your cursors up after a rotational rulers all your measurements will have time and rotation degrees after them which is actually a really cool setup so again we have one hundred and twenty two degrees of crank rotation after the smaller electro-pulse alright and if you go to the furthest event and you do the same measurement you'll see it's a hundred and eighty nine point nine degrees after the small ignition pulse so we do some math one hundred and eighty nine point nine minus one hundred and twenty two point seven and you get sixty seven point two that's your total adjustment of that so what we did now is we did a couple things we number one confirm what service information says because we've all been there service information lies sometimes but we've also confirmed that this car is working okay when did when you're when you're testing vehicles and you're testing new techniques you always want to test in a known good car if you're testing on a bad car you don't know if you test is wrong you don't know if the car is wrong you're only testing on theory so what it does I tested us on a new car now let's say you got 40 degrees of crankshaft rotation well that's a problem right now we know our problem is either a oil pressure problem or a phaser problem what I would do next is I would check your oil pressure to make sure it's providing good oil pressure up to the camshaft bearing bridge and up to the phaser itself if all that's good then I'm going in and I'm expecting for the broken screen of all that's good then I want to take that I want to take the cam apart because I like to inspect the cam before I take it apart I want to take the cam apart and see if any got anything stuck there look for sludge look for things something sticking something like that it's a great little test so Pico scope makes it real easy to measurement because it has the rotational ruler function in him not all scopes have this ability does that mean you're Sol no you can do the same measurement using your cursors to the stake let's take like maybe like a snap-on scope or an all telescope all you can do your measurements on or just with your cursors well with a little bit of math you can do you can do the same kind of measurement let's do let's do this I'll be doing it with a Pico but using basically a snap-on methods all right you're gonna start by measuring the same area with just your cursors okay now you can see between my cursors the same at measurement I was measuring before you have a total difference of 570 2.8 Mellon milliseconds write that down all right again we have for ignition events that happen between those cursors so we have 720 degrees for each firing event times 4 is again we get the two thousand eight hundred and eighty degrees of rotation just like before before what we need to know is how many degrees per millisecond we have which makes sense so we have two thousand eight hundred and eighty degrees and it took us five hundred and seventy two point eight milliseconds to get there we do a little division we get five point zero two milliseconds per degree that number you write down so now you know in your particular measurement that you have every five point oh two milliseconds is one degree of adjustment or timing so as before we are we're gonna measure the cam / ignition relationship before an adjustment we're using the same reference points before the small little pulse of the cam sensor against where the leading edge of the ignition event will be alright the distance between the creases that we have here is two four point twenty four point 36 milliseconds same thing as the just enlists the final event you can see the farthest event is 37.72 milliseconds between those cursors alright so you take the 37.72 subtract the twenty-four point three six you get thirteen point three six milliseconds awesome love math totally should have paid attention of the housing school I wouldn't needed a calculator to figure that out so we take that thirteen point three six milliseconds multiply that by that five milliseconds per degree we get sixty-seven 0.06 milliseconds same thing as before so again you could do this test it's a lot to take in but once you do the test you realize how easy it is all right do we have any questions before moving on because we are we're about 640 right now so I'm gonna go and I'm going to actually go and look and see if we have any questions give me one second to do questions all right and I don't see I have any questions here see here that I had a question oh here we go oh now I can see questions look at this all right so we'll start down here at the bottom Alex asked if rpm will drop while turning on solenoid yes rpm will drop at a wanna stall all right but that all only tells you that something is happening it doesn't tell you what is happening all right if you're trying to diagnose the car with that with a with a 100 percent certainty at what's wrong with it or at least point you in the right direction you need to know how it's working which is why you want to do it that but that's it that's a good question but we want to be specific about how we do this we don't we don't I don't want to spend the customers money I'm throwing parts at the car Simon current asked where is the oil screen located this particular oil screen is located on the backside of the bearing bridge where it meets the cylinder head all right and you'll see you'll see it there okay let's see here okay okay all right that's about it for questions right now how are we doing on time we got about 15 minutes left so let's go a little bit further if you don't mind since we have a little bit extra time let's talk about the actual timing chain and everything like that with the car okay here's your basic timing chain setup on the vehicle you have three rows of timing changes you have your main timing chain you have your oil pump timing chain down here here's your main chain and then you have your balance shaft chain right here another word on the balance shafts let me erase this little link right here oh it can depend back on one more time and depend back on so one word on the balance chefs Nene's balance chefs are pressed in housings but inside those housings are learn where the balance chef's pinned and inside those little housings have little screens those screens have a tendency to flip get clogged and seize up all right so what will happen is you have not quite metal right here on these part of the balance shafts it's some kind of graphite metally nastiness okay what happens there is a balance shafts will cease engine will still run but if you notice back right here that's the water pump Volkswagen thought it was an amazing idea to put the water pump on the back of the engine running off of a battle shaft that has a tendency to seize that's driven by some graphite metal impregnated mess alright so your car will run just fine maybe shake you know because it's a Volkswagen the nail shake but you'll see you'll notice you overheat okay so you'll notice that okay it's overheating no coolant flow let's change the pump so we'll change the water pump put the water pump on do it the right way change the water pump belt bump on do the thing and next thing you know cars running overheating again all right you take it apart a little bit more and you find out when the car is running the belts not spinning so what do you do then well at that point you're pulling the engine out and changing the balance shafts and hoping everything is in there it's kind of cool alright so again let's get a little closer look at those balance shafts right here so these balance shafts you don't really see it in this picture let's see okay so it says it's written right here I'll highlight it again this is all in the book that you guys can download do yourself a favor and download it and save it the balance shafts are made from spidel I can't even say that word graphite cast iron and run in three bearings so it basically it's not even metal it's really it's really kind of soft chain lubrication is provided by oil returning from the cylinder head oil is collected and distributed in the chamber through by a separate lubrication channel but what they don't tell you is that a little here right around here right around here here and there are screens that like the clock because Volkswagen loves our screens and again newer balance shafts and newer vehicles to have these remove the screens because well so I can finally realize they have a problem all right so the balance shafts again they live inside the middle of the cylinder head right here on both sides and they drive the water pump on the back of the engine which water pump lives right there all right another thing that they that they don't tell you he actually used to be kind of like not a quite a recall but at TSB pan turn the pen back on is where the balance chef comes out and the water pump gets driven there's a seal there all right that's an oil seal running through running through a steel shaft as with any kind of oil seal and with with all of old swaggins and most modern cars now the crankcase runs on a little bit of vacuum that balance shaft is in the crankcase if that if that seal starts leaking the balance shaft or the bow you can get a lien code and you'll smoke the engine all day long you won't see anything maybe you'll think they'll take the oil the water pump cover off and look in there and check for leaks so I always keep it keep in mind that's a spot where vacuum can leak sometimes what you can do is you can that you can you can smoke the engine maybe spray that down with a little bit of water look for bubbles look for smoke stuff like that all right so this is your basic layout of how the timing timing change is set up you see in front you see in front right here is your oil pump chain balance shaft chains run on the second print plane and you may Chane actually no you maintain runs behind that also Tommy chain tensioner big deal always make sure your timing chain tensioner is of the latest update because those things are junk you buy a new one they redesign them buy another new one they redesign it and just always make sure it's always the latest update that you have all right let's move on a little bit the way they want you to measure timing chain slack or stretch or anything like that is they would like you to measure with a digital caliper so you don't have to break the bank to get a digital caliper you can go get one from Harbor Freight which is under ten bucks and you look they measure exactly the same thing you don't have to go nuts although I do love my Mac Oh beautiful aluminum digital caliper so this is how they would like you to check it this is a picture of the chain of the balance shaft everything everything installed and they want you to measure you can see right here see that guy right there your intake Tommy mark you see your exhaust cam timing mark okay they want you to measure this in two ways alright they want you to measure from your intake timing timing arc right here to this little stand off the little the little nubbins a little nubbin and the stand off right there alright between the intake timing chain guide mark and an oven and the spec that they want you to be is between 61 and 64 millimeters we can see right here we're at sixty two point eight we're in a good we're in a good spec the next thing they want you to measure is between the two camshafts all right the distance spec on that is 124 to 126 millimeters so another thing you can do with this is you can also use that spec to measure if your chain jumped alright if your chain jumped on the crank or something like that and may your cam 2 cam relationship is fine if your your cam decamp measurement will be fine but this measurement will be off it'll let me know that okay we got a jump chain again if this measurement is off but the but they're your first measurement is fine that let us know that okay maybe we're jumped on the cam right here okay what I did in this picture is you can see that I jumped the exhaust camshaft one tooth you can see there's about a five millimeter difference from the other picture which is letting us know you know on a down a good chain it's about five millimeters of difference between link to link another another thing of note the crankshaft sprocket uh assembly if you're looking at this and you're not familiar with this you're gonna notice it's just a round hole there's no Woodruff key all right it's very common very common if the if you take this off or you take the center if you take the center bolt out Center bolts out of here and you're not careful this could slip and move and move because all you know the only thing that you have to align it is this little guy right there and if you really want to and I mean really want to you can you can put this off a little tooth and you you're gonna drive yourself crazy because there's no mark you can do drought you drive yourself crazy thinking your timings off and going on doing a bunch of times and you just got to make sure this make sure that your timing is on another another mark to be careful of is the outer mark where the where the balancer but goes into right here you'll see it's basically round and if you look really close let's go back look really close you'll see it's got a flat spot in there if you're really not paying attention you could totally just put that on feels about right hit it with the impact gun and it'll slide and move and then you'll get yourself some timing thoughts so later on Volkswagen decided and later model TIG ones I believe it was is they have a damper holder kit this guy right there all right what that guy does is that holds the crankshaft dampener in position while you take the center bolt out and you can put in the bolt with a special holder sleeve now that sleeve will allow you to take the crank that the crankshaft dampener out and and you won't lose your relationship of your sprocket to your to your to your crankshaft it's actually a pretty cool tool it'll fit the earlier two leaders but again Volkswagen didn't spec it out in their instructions too much later if you want what I would do if how're you guys is I would write this number down right there take a picture of it write it down and look into getting that kid if you're doing a lot of these things that thing would save your butt another thing you can see is there are really no timing marks on the gandhi engine there are marks on the crankshaft but basically this is a line your line your links up to the tool to the marks and everything works okay it's actually pretty simple if you do everything right and line your crankshaft sprocket up to the to the right to the right line up spots on the hub all you have to do is line your magic marks up and you're good to go it's that simple all right and that's that's basically it let me see before we have other stuff which you can go on later but before we do that you should just move on because it's running a little late in the presentation here all right let's see here I say I see some questions go pop this out let's see what kind of questions do we have Alex asks can a solenoid manually be jumped while running yes it can be manually jumped while running be careful though only adjust that only jump it in short bursts and if you're going to and if you're going to do that again and your best bet is used to proper front probing connectors all right let me have to turn the screen back on again you're gonna want to use the the proper front probing connectors because if you use like an alligator clip or something like that they'll touch and you'll short out your testing device caused damage to the solenoid you don't want to do that John asks can I watch this later yes you can watch this later Sean wants to know can you provide scope patterns for kamek rank correlation engine in time and out of time if you email us I can get something to you I'm not going to provide anything right now for you because it's not on this particular computer that I have could that show where if the measurement is more than the spec if you're talking about what we're doing with the with the timing chain yes that's what that test is designed for that test is designed to show timing change stretch but if you do it in a certain way you can you know obviously infer that the timing chain is jumped as well the test that we did with the camshaft phaser you could show wearing that phaser as well if it's over adjusting but generally it wouldn't because you stopped by the veins see here fire video how often does the screen particles make it over to the dead end depends how it breaks are you talking about the oil the oil mesh screen all right the oil mesh screen if it breaks in a certain way where too slowly turns into kind of like a silt kind of material they are small enough to make it up through the bearing bridge through this through the the adjuster valve and then into the phaser itself anything can happen that's why it's important to try to find all the pieces that you can all right this is safe to say that the digital measurement specs are all for the 2-liter yes for this engine yes the did the digital measurement specs are for the 2-liter engine you would have to get service information for your particular engine and read that and infer that test on your own but you can the methods are the same even for the old 1.8 T engine the way that works is you have a camshaft tensioner in the back of the car that either attention is the change up or down moving your exalt moving the exhaust cam one of the camps and the test would still be the same you could you would still reference off the same things and you would activate that solenoid and measure it all in a sculpt test is always the same and that that measured that specification is in service information so I think that's pretty much about it again if you have any further questions feel free to ask that at info dot us at our logic comm we're gonna have another upcoming webinar it's going to be what's new with the drive pro if you guys are drive pro customers you'll notice that a lot of lot of changes have been happening recently and we're gonna cover some of those changes we'll go again over how to use the tool to its fullest potential and it'll actually be a pretty great webinar to be hosted by Vince Walsh he's a great guy still owns a shop is a tech support guy over here it's actually really great alright so with that I think what I'm going to do is I'm going to say goodbye so let's do one of these guys I'm going to do this and I'm going to turn my camera off that's here you you

Channel: Opus IVS

Views: 75,248

Keywords: Autologic, PicoScope, Audi, Volkwagen, Webinar, Training, Automotive, Automotive Repair, Technical Content

Id: f_ugUqoBQ2U

Length: 59min 40sec (3580 seconds)

Published: Tue Aug 20 2019