Using bowl scrapers without catches.

hi welcome back now this video is all about using scrapers for inside of bowls and boxes so I got this question from a viewer named Gregory so I hope this helps you out and using scrapers on inside of balls particularly smaller bowls where you can't get tool rest inside how do you prevent catches and what shape scrapers do I use for inside can you show how to use sheer scrapers on inside of bowls and boxes I had a catch the other day which ended up snapping the M2 highspeed steel scraper it snapped at the tool rest it was scraping with about 40 mil tool overhang wood was giddy this video I hope will help all of you that have the similar situation or similar struggles with using scrapers on the inside of balls or boxes so this video will be split into three main chapters uh the one will be on cross grain work uh the other one will be on the end grein work uh but first now to use scrapers properly you have to know a little bit about fundamentals about grain direction as well as uh sort of rules that apply on using standard scrapers a brief overview of the grain Direction the the first one is the most commonly used let's say on the late and that is long grain or end grain work now what I mean by that is I have here a block of Timber and the grain is running like this so the straws of the of the wood are going like this so if you imagine the roots here or the ground and the canopy on top here so this is our let's say trunk so uh when somebody says I've turned this between the centers or uh I've used the end grain or long grain orientation on the L that means that they put two end grain which is this and this part between the center so we are now facing here only at the side grain the other one which is more commonly called as cross grain or side grain is when we have the same block of wood but we rotate it 90° and now we work at this orientation and now this is completely different game plan now usually what happens is when you're working on a Timber like in this orientation this techniques and tools it won't work on a orientation like this or you have to adapt so uh the interesting part when we working on a cross grain like this per every Revolution we are hitting different type type of grain so if I grab this piece of cross grain so this is what usually like a an cross grain box lid or base would look like or some some sort of a bowl now if we put this again here or maybe this will be more uh visible you can see the grain Direction going like this and for every Revolution we are facing more of the end grain at this stage here so at this part a little bit of side grain here then again mostly end grain then again side grain which when we work in this orientation we are mostly facing only side grain or andrain into this it's really um a different type of working Properties or um different kind of techniques that you have to apply when working with these uh two different types of grain orientation now so this is cross grain the grain is running like this so this was hold on the LA like this and we worked on it to rough it out so again we are facing here a little bit of side grain mostly end grain again a little bit of side grain and again mostly end grain uh here if we go straight in then it's mostly um side grain so again if you imagine this block of wood like this we are now working into side grain like this or if we put it between the centers and we work this way again we are facing the side grain so that's the two most common or the most important grain orientation that you have to know uh for any or these are actually fundamentals that you have to know uh for all your other cuts on the LA and this will I hope clarify a little bit because this implies on gouges or any other tools that we use on the LA now primarily I use standard scrapers for all of my work here and these are the most common that I use on inside of bowls or plates platters as well uh so these two are what I call bolt scrapers and you I hope you can notice this one has a little bit more of a shallower curve and this one has a little bit bigger curve and it's also a little bit uh sort of asymmetric curve like a French curve so if I bring it here I hope you can see it a little bit better so this is uh for more smaller bowls or boxes and um the steel is 10 mil thick and 25 mil wide and this one is a little bit more shallower curve for slightly bigger bowls and you can see and here it's a little bit more of a flattish curve and then it rolls a little bit more here for any of the intricate shape that I want to do on the inside again this one is 10 mil thick 25 mil wide now you don't have to go 10 mil 8 mil in most cases will work uh but these if you have to overhang the tool rest these are highly recommended now these two behem here these are if I'm not mistaken 38 mil wide and 10 mil thick now this one hope you can see really shallow curve and this is great for shallow curves on the plates platters uh gets the job really really nicely and this one here the same dimensions so uh 10 mil thickness and 38 mil wide so it's a really big heavy scraper but with a bullnose uh profile so if I have to go into tighter curves um or um smaller box uh bowls sorry um I have this sort of profile that works really really well although this one doesn't get used all that much usually for any bows that I do uh these two work really really nicely so just to show you real quick one more time so this is that with a little bit more of a tighter curve and slow slightly asymmetric curve and this one with a slightly shallower curve here this can be used also and the other Bowl scraper can be used on ingrain work as well nothing stopping you I just call these Bowl scrapers because I use them primarily for bowls however I have smaller this is um 19 mil wide by 6 mil thick also with a tighter curve asymmetric curve French curve whatever you want to call it and uh for smaller boxes ingrain boxes and U this one slightly bigger as well so again you can see the profile and just bring this side by side and I hope you can see the profiles are similar and I can whenever the opportunity needs or want um I can use one of these to get the the perfect shape let's say or the tool I'm using is the closest to the shape that I wanted to uh to end up so hope that makes sense now real quick off the camera I'm just going to Che the inside of these two and we can start uh to see how we can use the standard scrapers on the inside of a bow without getting any catches so what I have here is a half of a really nice pot and you'll see this uh in the probably next video and why it's in this condition here and what I have here is a center line hope you can see this here the pencil line and um what I always want to do is when I'm using standard scraper is be slightly above that Center Line so I'm always scraping in this area above the center line especially when you're overhanging so this is around 80 uh 85 mil deep so quite a big distance between the tool rest or from the tool tool rest so you want this uh to be slightly above the OR at the center height or slightly above it so that's my let's say sweet spot and so if I approach with a standard scraper like this and let's say I tilt it up as you always should so handle is higher than the Cutting Edge in front so if I'm at the center height here and raising the handle slightly you can see here between the blue line or the crisp Blue Line the area that we are scraping and the top of the scraper here is less than 90° so if I go further down now that angle is actually getting closer to 90° even slightly opening up so you can have a catch if you go way too down or way too below depend on the shape that you're scraping on the inside especially uh but usually like I said I want to be at the center height or slightly above and if I'm slightly above and if I raise the handle up you can see here I'm way less than 90° and and I'm in a safe zone so I'm sure that the scraper won't catch itself and uh tear the the pot in half or the balll so we have here our Walnut uh Bowl this is quite common that you can see from B gouge let's say surface so we have a little uh steps or burnish marks which is the length of the bevel on the on the gouch you can see here the bevel and it's all almost perfect match to these um stations here so again the same principle here applies at at the pot so I'm raising the tool rest slightly so if I just Mark the center line and that's not quite as visible as I would want so just mark it again so the center line is that white dot in the middle and I'll just make a line across hopefully this will show quite nicely so I'm I raised the the rest so when I position the the scraper and raise the handle slightly so this area is slightly below your end of the handle and when I go inside the ball and this is roughly UH 60 mil deep and you can see I am just slightly above the center line so uh there is also common thought that you have to have a dead grip here on the scraper and it's not the case now there is a few things that you have to be aware if you have a ultra thin bowl and you approach it with a scraper flat uh then it it has a big chance to explode the ball now this is quite thick here so it's around uh 15 mil thickness and that's plenty for scraping here the exercise uh now if I'm getting uh really thin and I want to sheer scrape then I will tilt it up on its side that's now sheer scraping and what that does it prevents the standard scraper of feature that it wants to feed itself in so when we use a standard scraper with a single bevel here it wants to fit itself in slightly that's why negative rig scraper has a two angles and that secondary angle on top prevents it to be self feeding tool now we can do the same with the standard scraper by tiling up on its side as a sheer scraper now it's much less aggressive and it doesn't want to feed itself into the wood and it's much safer to scrape if you have a little thinner bowl and now usually when we sheer scrape then we leave the tool rest like this but I'm going to show you another trick as well so I turn on the Le and again I don't have a that grip here I don't want um my hands preventing the scraper to finesse the curve here so usually what I do I just pinch it here and I'm holding it almost as a pivot pivoting point like this and now I can control uh the left and right with my two fingers here pinching and with h my right hand at the end of the handle I control the the Swift of the or the left to right let's say motion with the handle so again going straight here now this is the burst straight from the grinder which I'm going to uh change in a few seconds so nice smooth motion and it also helps to get nice flowing curve if you have the scraper with a curve that matches or it's slightly tighter than the curve you're trying to scrape um that means it's much easier to scrape Over The Hills and Valleys instead of like having a really tight um like a rounded scraper and I can go like I said this is quite thick Bowl so I can use it flat on the to rest and go up to a rim here but I'm not pushing real hard into the wood I'm just gliding the Scraper on the surface now I feel that this Burr isn't all that sharp as I would like so there is a slight hope you can see here rougher spot here so just going to quickly off the camera I have a multiple videos on how I burnish um the Burr here a burr here straight from the burnisher and um I'm going to go one more time so that vibration High pitching sound was I was pushing uh just a little bit too hard on the side wall here so again okay that feels really good and we'll see slight Improvement in the surface here major Improvement uh over the the bur from the grinder in this case here and it's not sure if the camera will pick it up this slightly rougher spot uh and it goes in a sort of a triangle like this and this triangle here which is really nice and smooth is side grain and this one here and on this area where we have end grain this is slightly rougher and maybe you can hear on the camera but we can improve on that to improve on this surface I can use the standard scraper up on its side like I said in a sheer scraper mode now I'll just drop the rest slightly down as in this orientation I hope you can see the center line still here now I'm roughly at that stage I'm still lifting the handle slightly up nice and gently hope you see that I don't use much much force here there is no need that feels quite good and it's uh yeah it's much better uh surface it's not that rough anymore although 180 GD will hand this handle this really nicely without any problems now there is another point to this uh like I said all you want to do is have that 90° so if I approach with like I said I need to raise the handle oh sorry the to rest slightly up so when I tilt the scraper down it's at Center Height or slightly above so this angle of the surface that I'm scraping and the top of the tool here needs to be less than 90° now usually for the rim here I like to go in a Sher scraper mode and for the rest so 2/3 from the rim to the center here to the bottom I like to use it flat so it looks something like this so that's the rim done and now I can blend all this and that looks quite good A little hum here and light touch with the standard scraper is everything in a really light touch you don't want to push real hard into the wood so again that's the best you can have on this particular timber here and if I sand it real quick with 180 Grit and I hope that you see most of every imperfection is pretty much gone a little bit here I can go in the reverse find a fresh bit of paper and that's pretty much it a little bit here but again that will be gone in just a few more seconds with 1803 but that's mostly finished have here is a little pear bow and just to show you with a Timber that works a little bit better than this particular Walnut so again have it tilted down 90° now in terms of pressure how much pressure I'm um putting on the wood what I like to think is the any pressure that I put on I want to uh double it and make it less I'm not sure if that makes sense but I'm constantly trying to uh put uh half of the pressure Less on the wood at any given time so I'm just Gliding Over any bumps any imperfections and that feels okay A little bump here like this and I can Shear scrape this portion again putting as little pressure as as possible I just want that bird to do the job and I'm probably bumping the camera a little bit so it will be shaky right but that feels really really nice hope you can see that that's you don't need to sand this particular wood here so it's a really nice finish so key thing to remember is always to have this angle of the surface you're scraping at this area here and the top of your tool to be less than 90° so just to exaggerate this if I place it here let's say hope you can see that this angle is way over 90° so if I would just stick this up in there so drop the handle down stick it here I'll be okay here and here but once I get to this end grein portion it will dig in and I hope you can see how it wants to draw it back on in U and that's the the worst case scenario because once these two points align so top of your uh scraper and the grain here it will just uh split it like an ax so on a cross grain work like this you never stick any blade like this up into the wood so always have that 90° cutting tools are slightly different but with the scrapers skew so if negative R scraper something like this I always have one for demo purposes like this so you can have a big catch with this tool as well so you just have to drop the handle way down uh so the top bevel here is now pointing up into grain so again here we are okay but once the grain aligns at this stage here it wants to break out so um just be aware how you position on a cross grain work like work like this you always have to be aware of that 90° so whenever we are working on the end grain like this uh when I say in Grain we are so we hollowed the end grain here and uh from this line to the opening so this area here is side grain and all the way the rest on the inside is pure ingrain now here we can break the ultimate rule that we have for the cross grain work like bols and and stuff like that where we by any means we don't drop the handle but here we can do that and the reason for that is uh at the very center of the blank on the inside so very dead center you want to have that 90 so raising the handle up uh so go through very center but once you're away from the center you can start dropping the handle down and the reason for that and the reason why you won't have a catch is first of all this is a different grain orientation so the the grain is running like this and uh it's completely different so uh we can sort of scrape the end grain and blend it here to the side Grain on the ball part we are actually constantly changing the grain directions so from side grain in grein and uh it's a completely different beast and now here like I said we can drop the handle and the reason for that is on a smaller diameter like this on a really big diameter you may not be able to do that but here I can drop the handle because now the top of the tool here I bumped the camera and the surface I'm scraping here is way less than 90° and I'll have a nice sheer angle uh for the scrape and you'll see I get a really lovely finish and again I'm not here um making a lot of um Force here or anything like that so first the task is just to get the rough shape so this will just be a really quick scrape and now go through the very center okay so removed the majority of actually there is a little hole still in the center okay so that's much better so now again raise the handle up go to the very center once you find the center start start moving away from the center and start dropping slightly handle [Music] down and you'll see here I can stick it way down so handle way down and you'll see here nothing happens I'm getting a nice lovely sheer scrape and just blending everything nicely [Music] now if you want a little bit more of a sheer angle you can tilt it oops MP the camera again uh tilt it up on the on the side now this scraper is getting dull this should be now really nice Bur and again as I'm approaching the very center I want to be with the handle higher and that's almost pristine syrup is just clean up the very center a little up now just to show you the the finish here so hope you you'll be able to see the inside of this Maple is really nice so still a little bit a hole in the in the very center so uh but you can see it's a nice lovely surface case I can now use let's say this my uh this bigger 1in scraper and again same rules apply here at the very dead center you want to have the handle higher here you can drop it a little bit again just watch the that angle of top of your tool and the surface your scraper scraping needs to be less than 90° so if I lift the handle up I'm still here you can see getting lovely shavings but if I drop the handle down I get sheer angle [Music] [Applause] and again that knob in the very center and start dropping the handle down so that's almost perfect okay that feels quite good just want to show you the surfaces again hope you can see that's really really nice and again we can just briefly send stand it with 180 git and that's it hope you can see that's again pristine surface just to with a few seconds of uh sanding so again the major rule that you have to have when you're using a Scraper on the inside is that 90° so the surface you are scraping let's say here the rim and the top of your scraper needs to be less than 90° if I drop the handle down this is now open angle so over 90° and this will be major catch at one point here so it will start to dig in deeper and deeper so again on the end grain orientation where the grain is running like this uh you can drop the handle down to get that negative oh sorry Shear scrape but you have to be on the lookout that you are in a 90° angle on a cross grain orientation like our ball here if I do that um in most cases due to grain orientation you will at one point align the top of your scraper if I drop the handle down even if it's ative 90° uh you can still split the ball due to grain orientation so and this is much bigger diameter so if I drop the handle down and if I go let's say to this point portion here that's way over 90° I hope you can see that and that will be a major disaster so all everything is in that 90° I hope this little video will help you out in understanding that it's everything in those angles so with the standard scraper you have to have that 90° to um not be in a position that the scraper will catch or trying to into the wood uh so if you're using something like a negative rig scraper most of those um flaws with the standard scrapers are eliminated by that single bevel on the top however I find that the Burr doesn't last anything as long as on the standard scraper uh so that way is that's why I mostly prefer standard scraper and also with a proper bur on with a nice hook on the on the Scraper on the standard scraper I get much better or cleaner result in terms of scraping so that's my opinion I hope this will clarify that a little bit and uh help you out on your journey so uh thank you for watching and see you in the next video

Channel: Tomislav Tomasic Woodturning (Dodir Drva)

Views: 15,641

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Id: sv8fMWS6LiM

Length: 36min 15sec (2175 seconds)

Published: Thu May 23 2024