Upgrade Prusa MK3 To MK3S - Walkthrough - Chris's Basement

do you have a Purusha mark three that you still need to upgrade to the mark 3s me to person research does a pretty nice job about releasing maintenance upgrades for the 3d printer they did it with the mark two and now they've done it with the mark three the mark 3s and you can get a kit that's relatively inexpensive to go from a mark three to a mark 3s which is this right here now this upgrade is mainly focused on the extruder body and the filament sensor and Prusa has a guide that will walk you step-by-step through this upgrade so it doesn't make a lot of sense me showing you how to do this but i know i had a lot of questions about what was in the upgrade when it came out so i thought we'd take a look at what's in the box see what it's going to upgrade and all the steps that it takes to get it completed and we can start by checking out what's in this kit so with a kit they give you filament to print out all your own parts so you will need to print all your parts first we have our documentation our cheat sheet about all the bolt sizes these actually do come in handy information on how to print your parts zip ties and our new filament sensor all the hardware that's required for the upgrade the magnets some sleeving and your filament it's probably important to note that you need to print all these parts in black PE TG that's what Prusa says works best with their sensor so we've got all our hardware and before we take apart our printer we need some printed parts one moment and done let's take a look at the parts we printed we have the new extruder body the X carriage the back of the X carriage the adapter this holds a steel ball our cable holder the extruder body cover the idler door our extruder motor plate our filament sensor cover the filament since our lever and our part fan support now we also do have this fan duct I printed it in ptg but piroso says it has to be an ABS and they do give you one of these with the parts kit so we're covered there so we do have to take apart the X carriage and that's a little bit of work but hopefully it's pretty straightforward presa does have really good instructions so let's get started with the disassembly of our mark three we're going to start by opening up the electronics box and we need to get a little bit of slack on some of these wires so we're gonna release these two screws up here to let this wire loom go and if yours was built by Pru so you're probably gonna have some zip strips on these wires mine was a kit so I didn't add those so I don't need to cut them and then on the back of the X carriage we want to cut all five of these zip ties on here like so and we can go ahead and take this textile sleeve off and we're gonna unhook all the wires that run to the extruder so we'll start with the filament sensor down here the pin to probe right here the front print fan right here the hot end fan right next to it right here the extruder thermistor right here the extruder heater over here we can just take out that whole plug and the extruder motor the bottom motor cable right here and there's all the wires loose going to the extruder now onto the back of the extruder we want to take out these five screws two here one in the center and then these two down on the bottom once all five of those are loose you can just kind of pull this back off they should come with it be careful of the wires we can go ahead and unplug the old filament sensor wire we don't need this anymore they give us a new one for that and we'll separate the wires out of the plastic part go left and right just to get them out of the way now we'll take the front portion of the extruder off we can release it with this group and these two in the center and with those loose you should be able to just pull this off and you just set it on the printbed just be mindful of your wires there we go you can remove your nylon piece that gets loomed in with your wires you can remove these two zip ties that hold the bearings in and we can slide out the belt just let it hang loose for now we will be putting this belt back on and the belts off you might have to get some pliers to get that out of there it is stuck in there pretty good go ahead and pull all your wires out of the old back of the X housing probably have to do them one by one then we'll move to the front of the printer and start working on the extruder body the only thing that you're going to notice that's different about my machine is I have mosiac adapter for my palette - you're going to probably just have the standard one this is the only modification that I've done this is so I can use that PTFE tube that hooks into it but everything else should be the same on yours so we remove the four screws that hold on the high end fan we can swing it out of the way and we're going to take the part fan off but before we do that we need to remove the fan shroud so this screw right here so there's the duct and then we can take this part fan screw out swing our part fan out of the way we need to remove our part fan holder you'll probably need that ball in the allen key that comes with your preset kit to be able to get in there that's off and now we can remove the two idler door screws be careful these are spring-loaded and it never hurts to have a couple of those spare Springs around so don't lose them just back these two out slow the idler Springs are out now we can flip over and we can take out these three screws that hold the extruder motor on and the body should slide right off of that motor we're gonna swing our motor out of the way and then we'll take out this screw over here to release our pin two Pro your idler door and everything is now loose you can set that aside then we can slide our pin to probe out so we get out of the way and then on the front of the body this is the door we can take these two screws out to get that hot end out of there we can lift the door off and to get the hot end out you need to tilt it and lift at the same time and it's out we can take out our tube just press down this collar should be able to pull it out and then wants to go ahead and open up the upgrade kit and load that new PTFE tube before we get confused so let's go ahead and do that the new one and the old one are a different length so you want to make sure you're using the right one and the new one is beveled on the side that goes down you want to slide it in as far as it'll go and then lift that collar so to lock it into place just like that now the bond tech gear needs to come off and I have the kit version so mine's not glued but some of the factory assembled ones might be so you'll have to heat it up with a heat gun to get it off of there fortunately mine's not so I can just remove this set screw and it should slide off Vaughn Tek gears off we will need this guy for later and on our idler door we need to get this bond tech gear out of here as well there are roller bearings in here so be careful but we need to push this pin through I'm just going to use an allen wrench and my pin and my gears are out make sure you don't lose those bearings and you don't have to but you can go ahead and remove these two screws and get that filament sensor out of there if you want to the covers off you need to remove this screw to get that sensor out and then it should lift right out of there well it's all apart now we got to put it back together now you don't have to worry about any of the old plastic parts those will all be replaced by the ones you print it or the hardware it all comes new in the kit and the filament sensor is also swapped out from the kit with the wire everything else should stay the same we're gonna have to reuse it so let's get back to work and put it back together we're going to start with the extruder body assembly we need to put some m3 nuts in these holes and there's a couple of tricks to that to make sure they're pressed in the hole good you can put them on the end of a longer screw and just try to tap them in like that but if that's not working for you my favorite method is to take a little shorter screw from the other side and actually pull it in so we'll insert it on this side and if you just tighten the screw down a bit it pulls it in and seats it really well that seems to work the best and then you can just remove that screw so we've got our hex nuts in now we need a couple of square nuts one here and one here you should be able to just slide those in the holes some of these go in pretty far I just push them in with the allen wrench if I need to there's the two square nuts and we need an m3 by 10 millimeter screw for that pin to probe mount and the easiest way to tell these screws apart because you have 18s and 20s screws that are pretty close to each other it's to use the sheet that Prusa gives you those are actual size so you can just go find the screw that's close match it up on the paper and that saves your having to measure each screw to figure out which one switch because the length is important so here's the tin we need it goes right here no need to Snug it up for now we'll snug it up when we put the pin and probe back on if you printed these yourself you'll notice this gap is connected you can just cut this plastic out in because these do have to move to be able to pinch that probe I excused my Clippers looks like that now we'll take our filament sensor arm and our smaller magnet this one here and we'll just slide it in like that and then your filament sends her arm goes in your body it sets in here right like this it gets attached with an M 3 by 18 millimeter screw right there you want to put that screw on just tight enough this does have to move and then we insert the larger magnet in this hole right here the larger magnet needs to repel this magnet so make sure you have the right side flipped it's pretty easy to tell because these magnets are really strong it should look like that now we'll take our adapter part and we'll install our steel ball right there make sure your ball does roll smoothly inside your printed part and then our adapter goes in the top of this body with the steel ball facing that filament arm just like that now we'll move to assembling the extruder motor will put the extruder motor plate on this is the side that the hot end goes in you want to make sure the wire is going down with it so it'll set just like this and the flat side of the shaft needs to be exposed in this opening right here so we can put our bond tech gear back on and this is attached with 2m 3 by 10 millimeter screws one there and one there and then our bond tech gear goes on like this the set screw needs to be on the flat part of the shaft we'll just slide it on there for now this is the one without the bearings inside it no need to tighten it quite yet we'll align it here in just a second to align it I like to use a small allen wrench and set it in the housing the same size that fits the grub screw actually works best but this will keep that gear in position while you tighten it down the points on the wrench actually fit pretty well inside the teeth on that year now you can tighten it down use the best wrench you can find you don't want to strip that grub screw and it has to be pretty tight and once it's tightened down it's probably a good idea to come back through with a piece a filament just to make sure it's nice and center and that looks pretty good right there now we'll take the extruder cover piece and we'll slide a square nut in right here and then back to the body we're going to set two m3 by ten millimeter screws right here then we'll take our hot end with our new shorter PTFE tube and it'll set in here just like this you'll know you have the right to if it just meets up at the top of that housing you're hiding cables will be on the opposite side of the Pinder probe holder just like that your extruder motor with the housing on it sets just like this and the cover sets right here and we'll slide 2 m3 by 40 millimeter screws in this cover all the way through the body we can go ahead and snug those two down then we can start working on the X carriage we need to set 2 m3 hex nuts right down in here like that and then we have 4 square nuts to slide in one down here on the bottom one here in the center and then two up here at the top and then on the backside we can route our new filament cable through it just goes in this channel and we'll leave about 15 millimetres of the cable hanging out here at the top the bottom part goes down and through to the front side then back to the body we'll put our extruder cable through the part I like to leave a little bit on this side just kind of sink it down in there and out the back and then we'll go ahead and put our X carriage on the back of that that motor cable goes in the same channel as your filament wire does make sure nothing gets pinched it's pretty easy to do when you tighten this thing down it routes through like that and if you're good and nothing's been pinched you can go ahead and tighten down this screw and the one on the other side to put the whole thing together now we can install the new IR type filament sensor that goes on the top be careful when you're touching this thing you don't want to touch the board or any of the chips I kind of like to hold it back here by the pins the pins go to the back it sets in here just like this and then you have an m2 by 8 millimeter screw that holds it on goes right in this hole right there I mean go ahead put the cable on the red goes to the inside the clip on the cable goes up just like that and everything but the last little bit of slack can kind of just be pulled back through the body a bit that looks good right about there and now that the filament sensor cables in its final position we can go ahead and snug these two screws inside the housing up just to make sure everything's nice and tight then we'll put an m3 by 40 millimeter screw here this actually holds the motor on it's going to pull this whole housing together with that screw in you want to make sure there's no gaps on the side of the housing it should be nice and snug now then we can put our hot end fan back on we need to make sure all these wires for the exterior motor are nice and tucked back in here we don't want the fan to pinch those wires and then on the fan you just put the wire along the top just like this and then the fan wires will set in that same channel where the extruder motor wires go and then after the wires are all nice and tucked in in these three holes we'll do em three by fourteen millimeter screws we'll leave this hole empty for now that's what holds our Park fan on then we'll build our new idler door we've got the other side of our Braun tech gear make sure both your bearings are still in here you don't want to lose any of those the gear sets in here just like this make sure you have the teeth on the right side and then use the shaft that you use in your original door you should be able to just press this in don't force it you can break this part pretty easy you want to make sure that pin is nice and flush and the gear turns pretty easy and it does and one last check to make sure that that gear is lined up just right we'll get our filament back out and force it down the path mine looks pretty good but I think the gear could come out this way just a bit so we'll loosen that up slide it out just a touch make sure we're nice and lined up on the flat spot of that motor shaft go ahead and tighten it back down again it needs to be pretty tight but you don't want to strip it I like that better that looks good now we can go ahead and put our door on it mounts with an m3 by 40 millimeters screw it screws right into the extruder motor you don't want to tighten it down too much because it's the actual hinge for this door and they'll cause the door to bind so tighten it down just enough that should be good right there and now is a great time to check to make sure your bond tech gears line up and mine do we'll put an m3 hex nut in our idler door and then we'll take another m3 by 40 and we'll slide the extruder spring on and then from the opposite side it'll go through here and then thread into that extruder door you want to make sure that nut is nice and seated in that extruder door and your screw should be just a little less than flush with the body about right there then we'll take our part fan mount we'll put a hex nut in there then we'll use an m3 by 10 millimeter screw to mount it right here on the extruder body cover right there then we're gonna use our ABS fan shroud that came with the kit we'll slide a square nut in right here and we'll use an m3 by 20 millimeter screw from the front of the hot end fan to attach it to the other side in front of the extruder body door it should mount right about there then our part fan will mount right in here and we'll secure it on top with an m3 by 20 millimeter screw and then after the fans on and everything's nice and lined up I like to come back and snug this one up a bit just to make sure everything's nice and secure and then on the other side of the part cooling fan we're gonna put an m3 nut right in here and secure it with an m3 about 20 millimeter screw from the front just like that don't tighten that one up too much you can break that fan case pretty easy from the previous upgrade my cable has actually been pulled out of the holder but with this one you can put it back in this was the upgrade that I did for the MMU - you don't need to do that any longer so we'll put that back in and we can route that part fan wire through this channel right here and now we can assert the pinda probe we need to wrap the wire around the back of the probe it's going to go in the same channel that the part fan wire goes in we can just slide it in for now we're gonna have to adjust it later anyway so that should be good and now we're gonna put the cover on the filament Center it just goes on top just like this use an m3 by 10 millimeter screw make sure the cover is flush with the left side of the extruder body you can adjust the idler door if it's not then we want to load a zip ties on the back of our carriage you want to make sure the head of the zip tie is down like this and from the back of the printer you want to ex can tree up a little more than halfway those bearings should be touching then we can tighten the zip ties all the way I'm just going to put the head of the zip tie as close to the plastic part as I can and after the tight I'll go ahead and trim the ends off now we're going to mine some of the wires we do have this belt hanging around in here it'll go in this slot right here but we'll take the pin to probe and the part fan side and pull it over that bottom rail and it needs to rest in this guide right here same way for the other side with our hot end fan our filament sensor wire and our extruder motor we're just gonna take it over that bottom rail and it'll rest in that guide right there and we can go ahead and reattach our belt it should be the same length you shouldn't have to trim it any and put it on this side first just tuck it in that part you want to poke it down in there pretty good and then from the front well loosen up our X belt tensioner here from the top no need to take it out just loosen it up we'll release these two top X mutter screws pull them both out far enough pretty much completely loose so the head will clear that plastic part and then you should be able to twist your X motor just enough so that we can get that belt on and to the backside again let's go ahead and put the belt in the plastic part we should now have enough slack to get it in there pretty easy then make sure one more time that you're on your gear and on your either good on both sides then you should be able to rotate your X motor and get a pretty good tension on your belt and if the tension looks good we can go ahead and rotate the motor back and put these two front screws in now's a great time to check your motor pulley you want to make sure that it's pretty even and the belt is riding pretty much in the center of that pulley you want the top and the bottom of the belt to be parallel that's pretty good right there and if you can hold this motor shaft with a set of pliers and not move the extruder left or right and the belt doesn't flex at all you know you have it tight enough but we will do one more fine-tune on the belt tension so go ahead and release all three of these motor screws just slightly will move the extruder all the way down to the idler side and we'll check the tension of the belt in the middle now that's kind of easy to touch the belt together so it probably needs to be just a little bit tighter so this top screw here will give it one or two turns you can keep testing the belt in the center giving it a few more turns until it gets nice and tight and when it's just a little bit hard to touch the belt together that's about perfect and when you're happy with the belt tension go ahead and tighten up these three screws looks good the tension should be just right now we'll move to start finishing up some of the wiring we want to take our nylon guide piece and there's a hole right down here it can be kind of hard to get that in there so you might want to use some pliers and if you have it in there properly you can't pull it out easily you can actually tug on the whole printer it's got to be nice and tight now we'll take our cable holder plastic piece and one of our m3 by 40 screws just throw it through here and then the back of our X carriage we need to put a hex nut right in here I just use my pliers to put it in there but make sure it's pressed down in there pretty good and the world screw our wire management piece to the back plate just like this it's got a groove in the top where the wires go so that needs to go up we'll thread our hot end fan our filament sensor and our extruder motor cables first through this part and then the two on the right side for the pin to probe and the part fan and then we'll thread our nylon piece through just like that and this will slide on the back of the X carriage mind your wires as you're putting this in make sure again nothing is pinched and we're going to attach it with 4m three by ten millimeter screws two here one here and then one down here all four of our screws are now on holding the back plate to the extruder and everything's nice and snug then we can go ahead and start putting our sleeving on you want to leave the hot end heater and the thermistor out for now just these upper wires we'll get it started above this plastic cable manager piece and then we'll throw some zip ties on there and then we can add these two wires in after that so we've got the sleeve started now we want to put three top zip ties up here they go through this plastic piece you want the head of the zip tie to lay like this so you want to stick it through from this side it goes into three lower holes to wrap around the top and you want them to set just like this on the top or they're gonna collide with different parts of the printer so we'll put three on one inside one in the center and one on the outside then we can bring the heater and the thermistor wires up they're gonna set right underneath they're gonna come in from the same direction but they're gonna face down so there's two of those one on the front and one on the back and when you snug those up you want your wires underneath and then the head of the zip tie can just rest on top of the wires something like that then we can add our hot in a thermistor wires to our bundle and put on the rest of our sleeve I don't know if this is how you're supposed to do it but I actually like to give it a little twist after it's been put on it seems to hold in there a little better now we're about ready to wire everything back up the first we need to make sure all the wires clear and the pinned is going to clear the highest part on the bed is this bed wire cover right here so we want to make sure that's going to clear so with the nozzle almost touching the bed I'm going to bring the bed and the nozzle over to that area I'm gonna make sure there's plenty of gap in between the wires and that cover and there is now we can start feeding our wires back into our control box we want to feed our piece of nylon into this hole right here on the top that will hold our wires we can feed our wires in but then we want to unscrew the sleeve just enough to get it almost the whole length of the holder just so it grips it good enough about right there is good and then we can put our control box holder back on and we're good now we can start plugging everything back in and for the first connection you want to double and triple-check this because if you plug in the filament sensor wrong it'll burn the sensor up you have to use the bottom row of pins right here for your filament sensor and it has to go a very particular way there's five pins there's five pins on your cable the red wire needs to go to the outside it has to go just like that again check this a couple of times it has to be on the bottom row red wire to the outside of the control box make sure it's lined up on those pins perfectly then we'll plug in the extruder motor it's down in here we'll plug in the hot in heater it's right there we'll plug in the hot end fan it's the black wire it's right next to that hot in heater right there right next to it the print fan the clips on these facedown right there right above it the extruder thermistor it's the one on the very right right there and then finally the pin to probe up top here right here and that should be it we can close upper case go ahead and latch it back up with our screw and then one last thing I want to get a rough height for my pin to probe so I'm gonna bring my nozzle down until it just touches the bed and this is with the steel sheet on I'm going to slide a zip tie underneath my probe I want to push the probe down until it rests on that zip tie and then I'm going to tighten up that screw and that should give you a good rough starting height for your probe you can make up the rest with livesey adjust so the hardware and electronics portion of the upgrade is done and it did take a while but we're not quite done yet there is a difference in between mark 3 and mark 3s firmware we did change the filament sensor so we need to go download that and reflash I'm sure we'll have to run a calibration after that so let's head to the Prusa site so we'll head over to Prusa go up here to support drivers firmware manuals and we want to make we're getting the latest firmware for the mark 3s mark threes down here we now have an S so we'll download this three point seven point one you can go ahead and get your drivers and apps if you don't have those already or if you haven't upgraded them in a while the newest version is Prusa slicer so long slic3r so let's go to downloads right click and we'll extract all and now we can open slic3r i have an upgraded up ruse the slicer yet make sure your cabled up USB to your printer and it's turned on and if we go to configuration we can go to flash printer firmware it's going to automatically recognize our printer it's calling it at a mark 3 right now little browse downloads make sure we have the mark 3s version right here hit open well go ahead and hit flash and the flash was successful it's gonna give you a warning that says printer type has changed because it has just click the button it's just letting you know that it found the old settings so PID Andy steps we're going to be the same so don't worry about that let's click it again but if we go into the menu we head down to settings we want to turn our new filament sensor on that will automatically turn on an auto load which is good and if we go down a Livesy adjust it does have our adjustment settings so it saved that from the previous version but it's still probably a good idea to run through a calibration so let's do that real quick in the menu go down to calibration let's just start with the wizard it'll do it all running this will delete your current settings that's fine you want to begin yes it's going to give you some information run through the setup process yes you're gonna check the fans extruder fans ok is the hot end fan spinning no front fan spinning yes print fan okay never gonna check taxis XY and z are good now we're heating up the bed make sure it's working it's working now we're gonna check the hot end self-test looks good all correct now it's going to calibrate XY and Z for skew and level so we'll click ok we're gonna home then we're gonna run all the way to the top of the Z to make sure it's level it's gonna level at the very top both sides we'll make sure the nozzle is clear click ok steel sheet is on we'll say yes please remove the steel sheet and we'll hit ok put a piece of paper on the bed to keep the nozzle from scratching it in case it's too low I'm pretty confident that this one set up correctly so I'm not going to do that we'll go ahead and hit OK now it's going to go around probe the bed and figure out if there's any skew then we need to put our steel sheet back on and hit continue and we're perpendicular awesome I'm going to go ahead and clean the steel sheet off to this next step and we'll click OK it's filament loaded no it's gonna preheat for PLA it's bringing in the filament filament change is successful we'll hit yes now we'll calibrate the first layer I'm gonna start laying down our test pattern you can see it's not making a very sharp corner so we'll go ahead and bring it down so using Livesy adjust corner still isn't quite stuck let's go and bring it down a little more we'll check and see if we can pull it off real easy we can we'll bring it down a little more still needs to come down a little bit more and I wasn't quite happy with that run so we're gonna cycle through it one more time we're just gonna hit yes and we're at 900 that looks pretty good and we're done it was a big upgrade and it took quite a bit of time but I think it's gonna be worth it going forward I like the way the new filament sensor works with the manual piece that triggers the optical sensor that should work a lot better than the old one we do lose Jam detection but I never really got to test that successfully in the first place I also like the new extruder body it's a lot cleaner and I think down the road if you have an issue like a jam it's gonna be a lot easier to take apart and clear it than the old one and proofs that does have a really good guide on how to do this upgrade so you probably don't need to watch this step by step but I thought it might be interesting to show you what it takes to take your mark 3 to a mark 3s I hope you liked this video you found it helpful if you did please consider giving it a thumbs up or subscribe to my channel if not leave your thoughts in the comments below and as always thanks for watching

Channel: Chris Riley

Views: 49,134

Keywords: 3D, printer, Printing, 3D Printing, 3D Printer, ChrisBasement, ChrissBasement, Chris'sBasement, Chris Basement, Chriss Basement, Chris's Basement, ChrisRiley, Chris Riley, mk3, mk3s, prusa, Upgrade Prusa MK3 To MK3S - Walkthrough - Chris's Basement, prusa mk3, prusa mk3s, upgrade, extruder, filament, filament sensor

Id: EMJIrAMLNAs

Length: 31min 40sec (1900 seconds)

Published: Wed Jun 05 2019