ULTIMATE 6 Dasher PRS Rifle Build: Start To Finish

[Music] this is my dream PRS rifle Gavin do you hear from ultimate rear loader calm in this video we're gonna pick up where I left off in the last video which was the complete walkthrough of this bat TR action from bat machine it's serving as the foundation for this six Dasher rifle build so we're gonna do is to start by reviewing the components that we're gonna use from the build I'll talk about the barrel work we'll get the barreled action put together install a trigger tech diamond drop it in mcs t2 a gap Manners stock and in the next video we'll pick up from that point get it broken in and in future videos we'll cover things like 6 - err how does it compare to other cartridges in its class looking at ballistics looking at performance gonna be a lot of fun make sure you're subscribed with notifications let's dig in so let's review what I've got on the table here we'll start with the parts and then talk about the different tools that were specific to this build so as I mentioned this build is built off the bat TR which is a premium Remington 700 short action semi clone it's got an integral 20 MOA rail it's got an integral recoil lug it's got the external bolt release you're going to want to check out that full video to see all of the features in all of the details here I've got a benchmark m24 profile 27 inch finished length one in seven and a half twist cut rifle barrel this is the first cut barrel that I've used from benchmark I've had great results with their button rifle barrels I've also got a benchmark tactical break I'll talk about fitting that to this barreled action and then we've got the manners mcs t2 a gap stock this is a carbon stock it's got a sort of competition form factor it's got an integral mini chassis and it's even got the thumb shelf so I really like this design I'm really looking forward to shooting with it I've got an area for 1-9 14-inch full-length ARCA lock rail this has got the ARCA lock system this is the first time I'm gonna try that I'm switching everything over to ARCA that's my goal because I really like how quick it is to add and remove accessories like a bipod and to position it is really easy as well the trigger tech diamond this is pretty much my favorite trigger for long-range competition type use this goes down to I believe yes 4 ounce 2 32 ounce I run it just under a pound and it's got the release that I absolutely love I used that on my 300 PRC full-custom and that has turned out awesome I've got some MDT 12 round 6 PR max these are going to work great with the 6 Dasher I've modified mags in the past with 3d printed inserts and special springs I'm hoping that these will work out of the box ok so that's kind of the core components that we're going to talk about in this video as I mentioned we're gonna be slapping a loophole mark 5 HD scope on I've got a worn bipod that's got the ARCA system for attachment and that should go together really well ok in terms of tools I've got this is a special action wrench for the bat TR and when you've got an integral Picatinny rail and and that kind of thing the other types of action wrenches don't work as well so this goes inside the Raceway and tightens the action from the inside this grease is something that Bruce stomp from that machine suggested the TW 25 be my [ __ ] I'm using this on the receiver threads and on the muzzle threads supposed to help with less galling so so far that's working really well I've got Dave Manson piloted standard geometry 6 - or reamer this has got the replaceable bushings so that you can fit the front of the reamer to the lands and it can basically guide the reamer in and help to prevent chatter by having just the right amount of I've also got Dave Manson go and no-go gauges and we're using alpha brass here so it is kind of a tool because I'm using this as a reference when it comes to the headspace and the depth of the chamber get into that when I talk about chamber I'm also using a quantity headspace comparator this is a way that you can see the various data measurements between your go gauge your no-go gauge and your brass I've got some MEC 0 to 6 inch digital calipers here and some of the other tools that I typically use so that is kind of the lay of the land in terms of everything that's specific to this build in terms of the core parts and tools next let's walk through the bare work before we do any cutting or machining we need two things we need to complete end-to-end gameplan and we need all the dimensions and all the tolerances for the build we're going to execute essentially a blueprint for that machine work and the cutting of the chamber with the reamer that kind of thing and from a game plan I'm using the framework to process start to finish as outlined by Gordie graders in his book that he wrote with Fred zeglen chambering rifles for accuracy I took Gordy's class it's a week-long precision rifle builder's class this last December highly recommend it if you're serious about this kind of work and Fred runs 4d reamer rentals so if you don't want to buy a reamer and you just want to use it for one or two jobs and send it back really easy process highly recommend that as well and so I've shown this end-to-end process a number of times I'm not gonna sprout all of the machine work in my new detail what I am going to do in the future is break down some of these individual portions threading the ten and cutting the chamber and go into more detail on those so again look forward to that make sure you subscribe in terms of planning there's three documents that I use the first is the reamer print this is from Dave Manson precision dreamers it's the print for the exact reamer that I used thought it would be cool to go with the standard geometry aspect by Dave Mann and factory brass this alpha munitions brass so that we don't have to go too far into the weeds with all of the planning and all of the custom work and I expect to get great results I can't wait to try this so we've got the reamer print and then we've got the action manufacturers print so this is from bat machine and this specifies all of the different surfaces and tolerances for the tenon and for the counter bore all of these different aspects of the barrel machine work that we're gonna be taking on and a range of tolerances I took the action and took a set of measurements and I used the build sheet this is from birdie graders rifle building class I've modified it slightly based on my preferences and I took my measurements and figured out where I would be and it turns out that those dimensions and tolerances fell right into the middle of what was specified by BAP so that's good confirmation it's kind of one of these measure four times and cut one so you know if you measure twice for wood I think you oughta measure at least four times with metal okay so with the build sheet we can then get started this benchmark barrel Blanc was specified for 27 inches finished length and that meant that the blank was 29 inches long or thereabouts and what I like to start with is to take off about an inch from the breech end that's what gets us into the clean perfect portion of the rifling and whatnot and I like to use my metal cutting bandsaw for that breach end I parted off on the muzzle end but on the breech end I find it just to be faster and more convenient to start with a bit of a part off then we install the barrel blank in the lathe get the outboards and breech end within about a thousandth of an inch first on the outside of the barrel and then on the inside I always like to read off of the lands and grooves just to make sure we're really dealing with the critical portion which is the bore itself not the exterior I found with benchmark blanks that they're typically within about a thousandth of an inch from between the outside and inside which is really quite impressive so with that rough dial complete we can then do our pre-drill and what I typically do is I take the shoulder diameter and then I subtract 30 thousandths or more so we're gonna basically take out the bulk of the material from where the chamber is going to be but we want to leave enough material so that we can chase that up with a boring bar to make sure that that that pre-board area is running perfectly true before that chambering reamer gets into the chamber area it's very very important to set things up on the right foot if you will from the get-go as you start that chamber so after the pre drill is done then our indicator is going to have room for the nose here in that pre-drill area and we're gonna be able to get the tip of this dial test indicator into the critical area which is where the throat is and about an inch forward of the throat here I'm running a longer tip it's about a two times normal length here so every tick mark on this midotaur indicator actually indicates two ten thousandth of an inch of movement then we do a dial of this barrel and we use the jaws on the four jaw Chuck on the breech end and the tips of the screws on the spider screws on the muzzle end which is the outboard end to get that throat area about an inch long perfectly true and we're looking at the grooves so the tip is riding on the lands and then on the group's lands in the group so you're gonna see the needle fall to a lower position and that lower position is the reference this barrel has four lands in four groups so when you install the barrel in the lathe what you want to do is you want to get those grooves lined up with your Chuck jaws and get your Chuck jaws aligned with the screws on your spider now where you have your grooves you can have your tip of your indicator running in those grooves and get everything perfectly aligned and make direct adjustments with those Chuck jaws and outboard screws not somewhere in between where you have to kind of split the difference between two jobs there's a couple little optimization things this dial in went really quick the only thing that took up at a time was there wasn't a whole lot of room between the nodes of the style test indicator and the pre derail the pre bore of the chamber area so I had to align the style test indicator very carefully so that I could move it in and out of an inch and not have it hit anything dragged on anything those sorts of things so with the barrel running true we can then chase that pre drill with a boring bar take multiple passes and then check it with the dial test indicator to make sure you know a couple tenths of movement not a problem that's just some machining marks but we want to look for you know out-of-round those those sorts of things we want to make sure that it's running true but a little bit of surface roughness not a problem so with it board would then take another look at our bare alignment confirm that that's all good and we can start to now work on the tenon cutting it to length cutting it to a diameter this particular barrel was cut for essentially standard custom Remington 700 action threading which is typically an inch and a sixteenth 18 threads per inch and there were a couple details that I followed very closely from the print provided by bat machine there's a little bit of an extension here with no threading on it that follows particular tolerances and then the thread relief next to the shoulder that needs to come to full thread depth within point one inches so I made sure of those details and machine to those surfaces and then took on the threading and this is one of those things where you definitely want to make sure that your lathe is set up correctly so I typically coat the tenon area with dike m and then run about a one thousand two inch deep pass with the threading tool and then check it with a thread pitch gauge to make sure we're at 18 threads per inch and we are I also used that thread pitch gauge before I started anything inside those receiver threads to make sure that it was 18 threads per inch aspect got a double triple quadruple check everything because I'd hate to ruin you know 400 3 $400 barrel blank just because I didn't check some details and things like that and when you get into the final passes of threading you can typically use the the peaks of the threads to see where you're at they're gonna start to get a little bit sharp when you get to the appropriate depth I used the 3 wire method to check what the pitch diameter was and the pitch diameter was actually specified on the print you're gonna take three wires put them over the threads and then use a micrometer to check the diameter that you read then you take an offset and it gives you a pitch diameter and that is a normalized representation of the depth of the threads without taking into account the peaks or the troughs so it is where the actual threading surfaces are going to hit each other measuring a datum point there and that gave me confidence to go down to the appropriate depth and then when I got to the last couple thousandths of an inch I fit to action on the threads so you want to spin the action on and once you can get it all the way to the shoulder and it's not got a lot of rattle that's fine for a custom action like this it's going to be perfectly true and all that if you're chambering a barrel machining a barrel for a rifle with a separate recoil lug and it's untrue then you might want to have it be a little bit looser so that when you tighten up the barrel it can self align better and I did in this case use my threading depth stop which is custom accessory made for the precision Matthews lathe I'll have a separate video on that for making with metal comm because it's a way to get super precise repeatability on you're threading passes really quick you deal with the Dro but without a threading depth stop it's going to take you a lot more time so I was just absolutely taking my time with all this stuff and then before actually cutting the chamber you then want take a look at your counterbore and that's necessary because when you check the depth of your chamber the bolt nose needs to go into that counter bar just like it weld on the finished barrel so again I looked at my print I've cut the counter bore it's a pretty straightforward process you just have to be you know really careful about hitting the correct depth and creating hitting the correct diameter so that you have the appropriate tolerances side play and end play about eight thousandths of an inch total for for each of those then comes the chambering process itself and it's kind of funny when you're cutting a chamber for six - or you can see you don't really have that far to go it's a pretty short case with 300 PRC which I've done a couple of in the last year a lot more work is involved because if you're only taking plunges of a hundred thousandths of an inch at a time it's going to take you kind of a lot longer so what I like to do is I'll start with you know 100 thousands pass or there abouts and then take the indicator make sure I haven't picked up chatter and then go a couple more hundred thousandths and then check it with the dial test indicator again here you're going to see less fluctuation in the needle because the chamber wall should be pretty smooth with the reamer that year that you're using and then you can start to take your go gauge and take a look at where that sits with the typical Remington 700 barrel that you're working with it's going to be approximately flush with the back of the tenon when you're done so it's going to be sitting inside the counter bore and when you get close there's a couple ways that you can figure out how far you have to go what I like to do is screw on the action and put the note the go gage in place now I've I've removed the ejector the spring-loaded ejector plunger here just so that it's easier to use this go gage that insert the go gage drop the handle and spin on the action until it contacts the chamber you'll then have a gap between the action and your shoulder and you can use multiple feeler gauges or you can even use digital calipers if you can get them into the gap to measure how far you have to go and then I'll typically stop 20,000 short check again and then cut to within about five eight thousandths eight is a little bit better check again with a single feeler gauge and what you want to do is just barely hand tighten the action and then when you have a feeler gauge that will slide with a little bit of resistance you know that's approximately the amount you have left to go now with this being a custom action I wanted to I wanted the chamber to be if anything just slightly tight like a half of a thousandth of an inch tighten something like that so what I did was I cut the chamber to within about a half of a thousandth deeper than what the go gauge indicated because I should have about a half of a thousandth of an inch of crush when I tighten the barrel on to this action so I very carefully approached it when you get to that last couple thousandths of an inch it's a little hard to see what you're cutting I'm using a tail stock dial indicator set up with a piece of angle aluminum that it's pushing off of to determine what the tail stock will movement is which corresponds to your your depth of cut for each pass it's a little bit nerve-racking to take that last little cut but I was satisfied with that and then did a little bit of the finish work on the edges for the counterbore and the entrance to the chamber you want to take a little bit of a rounding to make sure that as the cartridge is being fed it's not gonna scrape on on a sharp edge something like that okay so now we're pretty much done with the breech end I removed the barrel from the lathe I did a little polish on the chamber you know before that with some 320 grit and cleaned it up good everything was tightening down perfectly I then did what I would consider kind of my standard muzzle threading job and again I've covered this in depth as well and in the full article which is that first link in the video description have a link to the video and the article that goes into a lot of depth of detail for that particular process that 5/8 24 on this for the muzzle threading I've got the benchmark break and I invested in tooling a little bit this time to make the fitting of the break the timing of the break a little bit easier and that was to take a step call it a very large one and do some machining so that it would perfectly clamp the outside of this muzzle break body and so I have a mandrel that I use I screw it on this time I did a pre drill and then Borg bar passes you're gonna want to see my 300 PRC muzzle break fitting and timing video for that I enhanced that process with the pre drill just takes a little bit of time off the process and that's bullet diameter plus 20 so 243 is the bullet diameter four six millimeters so I did 263 for the diameter these benchmark breaks you can use the same break for multiple calibers form to the appropriate diameter and then what I like to do is machine the back to a little bit of contouring and that's where this stuff call it with the 5c collet Chuck came in real handy and then take skin passes on the back to basically reduce the overall length of the break and that removes material so that it will time into the appropriate clocking there's some very simple math that you can do with that but again when you get to that last couple thousandths of an inch you want to make sure that you've tightened the break a few times because it will crush down a little bit so that what I like is just very very slight to work to torque it into the perfect clocking so that it's easy to remove I haven't had a problem with breaks coming loose on me such an overview of putting together the barreled action for this six - or build and when I went to go tighten the barrel things head spaced appropriately one thing that I did notice was I took the Hornady headspace comparator kit and compared a brand new piece of alpha munitions 6 - or brass with the go gage with a no-go gauge here's what I found the go gage I'll consider that zero for the 6-4 brass it was at negative 2 to negative 3 thousandths so the shoulders pushed back that much further and then I found the no-go gage was for thousands longer than the go gage so really where I wanted to be with somewhere between the go gage and alpha munitions brass I'm only using alpha brass I'm not gonna shoot factory ammo because there really isn't any and so again favoring the tighter side so when I checked the headspace the handle would start to go down on the go gage but now go down the alpha munitions brass would chamber without any resistance at all so in all likelihood I'm probably a couple 10 thousandths shorter compared to the go gage which is perfect before we install the barreled action on the stock there's a couple things we need to take care of the first was installing the trigger tech diamonds trigger this is one of the things I absolutely love about this bat TR action is there's this hanger there's two allen screws here remove those hanger comes out pin slide to the side you're gonna carefully tap those through just a nice friction fit there then drop the hanger back in I used a couple drops of blue loctite on these screws that hold the hanger down into the action I then did some quick checks with my Lyman electronic trigger pull gage to get the trigger down to around 10 ounces so I'm gonna see if I like that I like to be just under a pound so somewhere in the 10 to 12 ounce range and it'll be interesting to take a look at what this looks like on the trigger stand then it was time to get the Arkell lock rail from area 409 in place and the first thing I had to do was to remove the to swivel studs and that's as simple as throwing an allen key or I used to punch through the hole and then loosening them they're not overly tight and this rail has slots and two of the slots lined up perfectly with these swivel stud holes there's already blind nuts in the stock but if you don't have those you can install those that come with the ARCA lock rail and so I basically tightened those just a little bit so that I can slide the entire rail let me loosen that up just a little bit because what we want to do is a line where the front action screw is going to go through there we go we've got a little bit of sliding movement that we can have there now we're going to take the barreled action and then of course we always very carefully look at where the trigger is going and then the recoil lug bring it together I had to cut a couple custom action screws these are some stainless quarter by 28 screws that I have the ARCA lock rail comes with some extended length hardware but it wasn't exactly the right length so I have a whole bunch of these quarter 28 screws on hand I'm just going to get that kind of more or less finger tight put in the rear action screw what I wanted to see on this rear action screw as it tightens and there's a little bit of extra screw thread depth left when you look at the top of the action and that's where I got things okay so these are both kind of loose we're going to give this a little bit of a set that gets that recoil lug set against the in letting and what we want to do is check when we're torquing that front action screw that we don't have barrel movement and this is super solid I'm liking that a lot and I like to run my front action screw a little bit heavier torque then then the rear one that's just the way I run it you might need to experiment a little bit with that to get it perfectly dialed in okay now the action screw the front action screw has located this ARCA lock rail now we just need to torque down these other screws and I don't have blue loctite on these right now but if I have any problems with things loosening up I will see if I need to add a little but okay so let's see how everything fits here got our bolt release here that's good okay feels like things are functioning yeah that feels really good so the cool rifle is together I figured you all might want to see the rifle with an optic and here it is I sell this optic off my 65 PRC full custom hunting rifle because I felt like it would be the perfect optic to go with this rifle so maybe those two rifles will have to share the scope for a while in the next video and I can't wait for this we're gonna break in the barrel we're gonna see what kind of performance we're gonna get out of the rifle I did choose 26 inch overall length instead of 27 why because I'm gonna use a suppressor and I felt like 27 might be a little bit long 26 inch it's gonna still give us some good velocity some guys go up to 28 inches I feel like this is where I need to be we're also gonna look at some reloading scenarios I got some great dies from Forester I've got Berger 105's I've got the new Berger 109s we're gonna compare performance with that this is going to be absolutely outstanding and when the rifle matches come back online here in Washington State where I am I'm gonna be taking this to the Finlay Cup that is my plan sorry Peter Malone you couldn't compete from impact shooting we had a whole plan we were gonna both shoot six - sure well not for now but for later what do you think of this rifle and this rifle build please drop a comment and we'll start a discussion if you liked this video please give it a thumbs up and again don't forget to subscribe with notifications because we've got a lot more coming up in this 6 - err series also don't forget I've got ultimate reloaded shirts at the ultimate reloader store I'm on page around check it out links in the video description until next time happy shooting and happy reloading [Music]

Channel: gavintoobe

Views: 77,619

Rating: 4.9344645 out of 5

Keywords: 1000 Yards, 6 BR, 6 Dasher, 6.5 Creedmoor, 6.5×47 Lapua, 6GT, 6mm Creedmoor, 6×47 Lapua, Area 419 Arcalock, BAT TR Action, Benchmark Tactical Brake, Dave Manson Precision Reamers, Leupold Mark 5 HD, Manners Composite Stocks, Manners MCS, Manners Mini Chassis, MDT 6 Dasher Magazine, Mil Reticle, PRS Rifle, Tactical Bolt Action Rifle, TriggerTech Diamond

Id: txT46W8tqAo

Length: 28min 54sec (1734 seconds)

Published: Fri May 22 2020