Tuckpointing a chimney

okay we have another tuck point job we're going to be doing here you're gonna be putting a crayon on top of this chimney sorry for all the background noise the way it goes we're gonna grind all of these mortar joints out and put new mortar in and we're going to tighten up this flashing with sheetmetal screws caulk it paint it well this is the original mortar it's going to come out like a fine powder so in order to not make a mess on the roof and create a big cloud that's going to dust out all these cars down here and go all over the plants we have a dust recovery system on our grinder hooks up to the grinder hooks up to the vacuum hose to the shop bag you have our grinding shield gloves dust masks ear protection a pick hammer this is to get to spit the joints that cannot be reached by a grinder use a pick hammer and a tuckpointing chisel that's tuckpointing chisel and a wire brush to get the moss off we have a dust recovery unit on the grinder that goes up to the shop vac catches about 80 to 90 percent of the dust so we don't put a cloud all over the neighborhood we're grinding out all these mortar joints on the chimney we're gonna be tuckpointing it putting in new mortar we're gonna be putting a new crown on top of the chimney and we're gonna be tightening the flashing and painting it and caulking it okay we've got all the mortar joints ground out we're gonna be putting a new crown on top okay so we've ground out all of our mortar joints and we're going to start squirting up the mortar mix that pipe this mortar with a bonding agent mixed in it there's a bucket trowel $7.00 trowel from loves would talk two inches cut off so you got a square bottom to scrape the bottom of your bucket it's good to grout back getting the mud out of the bag is a combination of keeping it cinched up got this triangle here keeping a tight triangle cinching here and at the same time kind of squeezing here and squeezing here it's a bit of an art takes a little practice do your vertical joints first and down low I like these my barracks starts to get empty and you got to go and you got joints way down below I alternate when my bag gets low I do the work down below because it gives me better control by having a lesson here in the bag gives me better control and squirting up the joints down low squeezing with this hand first I'm squeezing the back hand to push the mortar forward are you going to rhythm down the mortar that I'm squirting in I'm coming out past the face of the brick fairly far because I need some substance to tuck in into the joint this mix is loose enough to where it's filling the whole joint but you still have to come out you don't want to be just exactly flush with the brick you still got to come out about oh I don't know a quarter inch see I've got just a little bit of mud left here and I'm gonna go down low makes it easier to work with you down low in a tight area just alternate back and forth as your bag gets low go down low on the structure and squirt it up okay so muds enough to where you can leave a fingerprint start striking again pay attention to your weather if it's hot you got a strike sooner you don't want it to get so hard that you get a lot of resistance give you a bad joint when you strike it it's going to come out really smooth you want that smoothness because that affects the permeability of the joint rain you want that smooth finish because that helps to waterproof the joint dumb some of my vertical joints Warners come in from the corners if you go out you're going to pull the corner out so come in from the corners on this job we're using a concave striker sometimes they have a flat strike finish this is concave round this is flat we use the flat striker if you'll notice down here at the flashing I was able with the scrout bag to squirt mortar back behind here use a flat striker to reach back in there and strike that joint you can't do it with a round one nobody's going to see it anyway it looks like so again starting from the corner and came in see all the muds falling off nicely I'm striking at just the right time I have a motto it's called don't fight the strike what that means is strike at the exact right time and the mud setup exactly right and it'll be an easy job get a nice smooth finish that's critical and then at this point you let it set up a little bit more and you'll see this extrusion on the sides you let that set up a little bit more and you get a straight edge of something small trowel striker something you trim it just going to do this for an example you trim off the nerf teen arts that's a technical term and then you grab a brush and brush off some more nerf canards and then critical second strike to ensure the smoothness of that joint you can see if they're kind of rough now they're coming smooth smooth joint it's critical then we'll come back and and watch this day or two later it'll clean up [Music] [Music] your cheap dollar store brushes they were applying for this nice smooth joints there you are tuckpointing one-on-one okay here's the almost finished product we have to wait a day or two and come back an acid-wash you'll get these little mortar stains on the brick and it comes off with the solution of water and muriatic acid we still have to paint and tighten the flashing but you get the idea nice slope drowned to shed the water crown is made of topping mix which is sand cement and pea gravel usually you can find it at Home Depot called it's called topping mix

Channel: Willamette Chimney

Views: 190,032

Rating: 4.6170888 out of 5

Keywords: Chimney, repair, damper, cap, raincap, brick, flue, crown, flashing, mortar, cleaning, sweep, Salem, Oregon, Keizer, St. Paul, Woodburn, Mt. Angel, Hubbard, Turner, birds, removal, demolition, tuckpointing, mortar joint, fireplace doors, replacement, screen, fire, free estimates

Id: Cb6U5OBoLU0

Length: 9min 45sec (585 seconds)

Published: Tue Oct 03 2017