Transforming the Space Marine Primaris Invader ATV: KITBASH

this uh this is not very good all right let's get back to primaris Invader ATV I think the main thing here is to kill off the Mourinho cart Vibes by lengthening the chassis which will move the wheels away from the corners so I got out my Razor saw I made some early sacrifices to the bits gods the ground clearance or a lack of also screams go-kart so I did away with the original suspension units which uh well I didn't like anyway as for the rear suspension I actually really like that I carried over the Space Marine bike aesthetic and I figured I could use what was already there by rotating it around in the chassis to create more ground clearance in practice that meant slowly cutting away the whole assembly with a knife being careful to leave as much material as possible for later when I needed to reattach the unit with the chassis now liberated from all those unnecessary bits I should probably show you the plan simply put its ATV meets dpv and hopefully that creates something that feels a bit more plausible starting out the front of the vehicle the first job was to blank off what I guess you'd call other side pods of the ATV using some one millimeter styrene sheet [Music] foreign sheet features prominently in this build so here's my guide to building model cars for little toy soldiers at a fancy plastic before you get to cutting sanding gluing an endless endless filling some sort of technical drawing is invaluable if there's any sort of complexity to the shapes that you're going to be building it doesn't have to be fancy but if you can draw it to scale then you can print templates which makes the next stages much easier and if you are feeling fancy well you can always do it in 3D cutting styrene sheet is best done with a sharp hobby knife and a steel straight edge but this does leave a raised Burr on both sides of the cut that needs to be sanded smooth assembling small parts with large hands can be tricky so it lists the help of a small child or maybe something like these one two three blocks since they're literally covered in right angles they're absolutely invaluable they pair up really nicely with something like an engineer's square and you can use magnets to hold smaller parts powerful in my opinion thin solvent based glues that can be applied with a brush are by far the best type for this kind of work they permeate the entire joint via capillary action and they give you a little bit of time to reposition Parts after you've applied the glue my favorites are Tamiya extra thin cement and methyl ethyl Ketone which is better known as either butanone or Mech just like my resume the gaps need filling to make this look credible there are lots of products you can use to do this but my favorite by far is Miller you need a gap filler that dries hard enough that you can sand it but not so hard that it crumbles out of the joints and I've yet to find a product that does this better and the reason for that is that it behaves like both a putty and a clay you apply it to begin with much in the same way you would something like green stuff and then if you wait around 20 minutes half an hour and then apply water while you're smoothing it out it produces a clay-like slip which really helps you blend it into the gaps basic process that's repeated throughout the build to complete the nose section I added another wedge shape box on top to allow space either side for the bolters and then beefed up the whole thing with a variety of armor plates whose influence um no no they were stolen I stole from various Space Marine vehicles after a bit more wrap friendly rubbing the nose assembly was ready to attach to the hull I made a point of test fitting the driver at this point to make sure I hadn't done anything you know I also had the realization at this point that I didn't need to do anything with his hands because they'd be inside the cockpit and not visible which is fantastic I wanted the rear deck of the ATV to beat slightly longer and placed slightly higher than the original to create more clearance between the roll cage and the gun I couldn't reuse the original part for this so I built a new deck from four pieces of styrene which I then attached to the main hole this was topped with a piece of tread play pattern starring which slid into place just beautifully uh let's cover those holes much better I call this The Duality of model making for the roll cage to look any good I needed symmetry across both sides which is why some sort of bending jig for the styrene rods is very helpful I'd normally use a tea light candle to bend styrene Rod because the temperature's a little bit more stable but I suspect mine have been requisitioned for domestic use hence the Forbidden technology is very much as you'd expect drill some holes Jam in some rod drop some more holes Jam in more Rod swear a bit add some glue you know the drill in fact the only thing that even vaguely borders on being a challenge with this is filing a concave profile on either end of the crossbar oh and wiggling it into place with sausage fingers in order to mount the rear suspension assemblies I added some 10 millimeter styrene tube into the void that was left when I cut it away earlier the chassis was placed on a pile of off cuts which would both provide the correct ride height and allow me to glue on both of the rear suspension arms and hopefully keep them Square the front end's a little more complicated mainly because what's provided with the kits a bit Naf I reused the hub assembly and tire and then crafted some vaguely Wishbone like suspension pieces from styrene sheet after some thoroughly tedious attention with a sanding stick and a little bit of sub-assembly the suspension arms were mounted to the hub once that was all thoroughly dry I used my pin Vise to drill some holes for the axle with a piece this small it's really important to start with a small bit and work your way up to the final size which was two and a half millimeters in this case I cut the axle from brass rod for peace of mind but the same styrene used for the roll cage would have almost certainly been strong enough I was able to reuse the premaris marina unmodified and either of the main armaments by mounting the whole assembly on top of a small piece of 10 millimeter styrene tube and the bolters were straightforward too all I needed to do was trim down the magazine slightly to make it look like the ammunition was fed from within the hull of the vehicle at this point I got lazy and laser cut the hubcaps but it would be easy enough to make them out of styrion should you choose and with that I was about ready to call the build finished of course I was kidding myself it wasn't finished I'd forgotten to do any of the rivets which I promptly cut from one millimeter styrene Rod apparently not on camera it's uh it's amazing what you learn when you start editing the footage I'd like to say You Know lesson learned but I've made that mistake so many times over the years anyway here's the paint to start things off I gave everything a quick Prime with Vallejo German red Brown that cut was slick but you didn't even see it anyway I filled that up with a white xenital highlight to create some tonal variation before breaking out the Imperial fist yellow contrast paint and building up the color density using several thin coats speaking of thinning after some experimentation I found that a ratio of around 60 40 paint to thinner seemed to work really well through my hairbrush with a few drops of flow improver thrown in to delay the drying time next up I throw on a coat of gloss varnish to protect the very thin paint and to prepare the model for some panel line washes I'm a big fan of oil paints for this kind of work because well you've got a few hours to go back and clean up any inevitable mistakes you make along the way all right let's just Blitz through the base coating Chaos Black on the black bits mephist on red on the red bits Vallejo metal air gun metal on that but you get the idea oh and some dark gray on the wheel hubs time for some ill-advised chipping now sponge chipping is a fantastic technique if you can exercise a modicum of self-restraint and uh well clearly I can't sponging on dark gray paint only gets you so far so I finessed the paint chips with a brush before adding a slightly lighter gray tone in the highlights of the chips and some faded yellow as well then forgetting that I still had transfers to apply I throw on a coat of General Grime from the underside of the model I mix this from Vallejo German red Brown and German gray as well I already had them out on the workbench and speaking of transfers which I uh I think I was a moment ago I Enlisted the helper brother micro set to help stick the transfers to the surface followed by several coats of microsol to dissolve the transfer film this combination gets you about 95 there but a quick coat of gloss followed by matte varnish completely removes any sign of the transfer film the final step was to add a little bit of chipping and some weathering to the transfers because well I forgot to apply them earlier and with that I was happy to call the ATV finished not too bad I think I managed to improve on the overall proportions of the model and make it feel just a little bit more plausible while keeping some of the key Space Marine aesthetic now granted I don't think Quentin Tarantino is particularly going to enjoy this one and that is something I'm going to need to address and I probably should have gone a bit lighter on the weathering but what are you gonna do well I hope you enjoyed that if you're looking for something else to watch then I scratch built this uh ridiculous orc Mega garden and if not then thank you for watching to the end and let me know in the comments if there's anything else you think I should uh fix probably not these guys though

Channel: Offbeat Builds

Views: 103,055

Keywords: kitbash, primaris invader atv, primaris atv, space marine atv, primaris atv kitbash, invader atv kitbash, warhammer 40k, warhammer, warhammer 40000, warhammer 40k conversion, warhammer 40k kitbash, space marine, space marine vehicles, warhammer vehicles, warhammer 40k space marine, kitbashing, warhammer kitbash

Id: r_V-lUtTh1U

Length: 9min 55sec (595 seconds)

Published: Sat Sep 09 2023