99% Of Woodworkers Do Not Know This About A Table Saw

hey welcome back to woodworking with West I realize it's been several weeks since we had our last post we've had a lot of changes going on and to make a long story short we moved and we're in a new location and we're going to be setting up a good shop in our three-car garage let me show you what we're going to get started with the first thing we're going to do is work on our table saw because to me the table saw is the most important thing in the shop all your projects typically begin on the table saw it's the most important tool now I'm going to show you something that I did that I'll bet 99% of Woodworkers don't know that they can do one of the things that was available with my saw when I purchased it was a 30in bar for my fence I wanted more cutting capacity than 30 in they make a longer bar for this that would allow you to cut up to 48 in but the new bar was 5 $500 from Powermatic let me show you what I did I went to a local welding shop I took my original fence support bar and I took it to the welding shop and they made me a longer version enough to cut 65 in to the right hand side of the blade they've drilled it so that it's ready to go all I have to do is put it on and it will fit that length right there and it gives me a huge opportunity to cut big things on my table saw without spending the kind of money that Powermatic wanted me to spend this was only $150 when my new bar came from the welding shop it was kind of rough had some welds on it I went and bought some regular car Bondo there were some gaps on the other side I filled these gaps with Bondo and then I sprayed it with a black enamel paint so I just and this is just Ratt can paint and I just sprayed like that and I went all the way around and sprayed my bar so that it was nice and ready to go I now have our new bar installed and I put the old one next to it so you can see how much additional cutting capacity we have I also purchased from Amazon a self adhesive tape like the one that is already on our old bar and will apply that to our new bar okay there we are all installed with our new bar and there are fence goes let's go ahead and build an outfeed table make this look like a real workplace on our outfeed table I drew me up some diagrams the size that I wanted it I did my math here you can see I did my math we're going to make some columns some posts to support and I've got to make eight posts that are going to be 7 1/2 by 7 and a half by 31 and 3/4 actually 31 inches high because we're going to put a little foot piece on and then a double thick top so it's going to have an inch and a half thick top we're going to make all of the support pieces out of this 3/4 in particle board and then we're going to put a piece of white melamine for our top across the top and this is going to be the size of our outfeed table when it's completed 59 in by 120 in a nice big work table and this is where our saw goes right there let's get started by building the posts we have ripped some of our 3/4 in particle board to 31 in lengths and now in order to make the post 7 1/2 by 7/2 they'll be two 7 and 1/2 in pieces and two 6in pieces nailed together in a square I'm going to go ahead and cut a piece off that's just a little over 15 in and then I'm going to start cutting my 7 and 1/2 we used a bunch of wood that we had to lay across the table here to give us part of a an outfeed table to get started [Music] [Music] okay here's our 7 and 1/2 by 7 and 1/2 leg just 3/4 in particle board these are extremely strong and very inexpensive to make and I've used them for table legs for work tables or outfeed tables they are great for what we're using them for I only have eight more to do I now have all of my columns my legs to my outfeed table all nailed together I nailed on a little foot now the columns are 7 1/2 by 7 and 1/2 and the Little Foot piece that I nailed on is 8 by 8 I'm going to show you how I did that and then I'm going to show you why I did that let's put this down here on the floor it's not an exact measurement I just just put my fingers on both sides so that it kind of feels like I'm even side to side and front to back like that then I'm just going to use my inch and a qu 18 gauge Brad and just like that now the reason I did that this is the bottom of the column it's going to go against the floor like that the little foot that we just put on is for leveling we'll be able to as and because we have a garage floor we're not exactly level and we want everything to be nice and level as we put it together we'll be able to put shingle shims underneath here and pound them up so that everything comes up to level we've already leveled the table saw and then we'll level the bench to go with it as I was making my working drawings I made three drawings of our tabletop this is the drawing that determined where where the legs that we just got through building where they're going to go this drawing right here is the finished white melamine top that is going to be flush with my tabletop we talked about that 59 by 120 this drawing here is the underneath level now remember our top is going to be two thicknesses thick the bottom thickness is going to be particle board the top thickness is going to be white melamine and I didn't want my seams to line up I wanted the seams to overlap for extra strength and so I drew it out these are the seams for my white and these are the seams for my particle board and so before I take my makeshift out feed table down I'm going to cut my particle board layer of my outfeed table [Music] first [Music] we now have our posts our columns set into the configuration that I want to have them for the bottom of our table I went ahead and attached this skirt piece that I'm going to have go all the way around to tie our legs together and to increase the strength of our top once we get all the skirt pieces and this is another piece of skirt and it's going to be attached it's 7 and 3/4 once I get the skirt pieces all attached I will put one more level of of what I'm going to call stretcher pieces they're going to go on here that's going to help with the squaring and leveling and then once I get those pieces on the first level of particle board our subtop will go on let's go ahead head and let me get some of this done and then I'm going to come back and show you each stage as we go through I want you to look at our skirt that I did I have it almost complete I'm just going to put in the last piece I want you to see how I've tied the columns together and how this skirt goes around and adds support to our top our last piece that we're going to put in I want to show you a little trick I nailed on two little cleats on the top this last piece is going to go right here and these little cleat hold it level and flush and now all I'm going to do is I'm going to put in some inch and a qu screws and that's how I have been anchoring skirt pieces all the way around have just been anchored with inch and a qu screws I have me a couple of pencil Marks here to show where I want to do it and I line that up and I just put these these inch and a quarter screws in and these inch and a quarter screws give me lot of support and then when I get all done all I got to do is take these little cleats pop them off now this is nice and flush when I get all done putting these cleats in let me show you what is next the skirt portion and the legs all completed and put into the configuration that I want the next step is remember I called this the stretchers the stretchers going are going to go around all the way around the circumference and across some of the skirt pieces for support to attach our subtop this is when we will level our table once we get all of these stretcher pieces put on then we'll go back and we'll level our table and bring it all into level so that we'll be ready to go let's go to that point and show you that when we get done as you can see we've got most of our stretchers putting on we're just putting the last pieces on and I wanted to show you how we're doing it first thing we do apply a little bit of glue and then we put our stretcher piece on here making sure that it's flush with the edge and I'm using inch and 3/4 large crown staples and just stapling this on that will hold really well and the glue will make it hold even better and then we're going to do the same thing here and here and that will complete our stretcher level except for one piece I want to show you something very special over here that you need to keep in mind if you're building an outfeed table let me come around here and show you I have this corner put together but I have to be able to open the door to the cabinet of my table saw so what I've done is I've just just put a little angle piece in here that allows my door to open but still gives me some additional support for the subtop when I get ready to put the subtop on so we'll nail these pieces last pieces on then I'm going to go through and I'm going to level all of this table off of the top of this stretcher level we'll be using shingle shims to level up and I need to be an inch and a half this is two pieces of 3/4 nailed together so inch and a half I need to be an inch and a half from this level to my tabletop so I made myself a little cheat block and I'll put this little block on my pieces as I level and you can see I'm down a little bit there so I need to level that up to where this is smooth once I get this all leveled so that this is flush with my little cheat block then I'll put my subtop and then my top and what I do is I'll go ahead and get this all leveled I'll show you how it looks when it's level and then we'll put our subtop on and we're getting close okay all done okay we have our stretcher level on and as you can tell we're all leveled up ready to go my little cheat block worked really great I'm going to go ahead and put on one of the pieces of the subdeck and show you how that's going to work and how we're going to attach it as you remember I had figured out the sizes of the subdeck that we were going to put down to make sure that our seams overlapped here's one of the pieces that I've cut out let me show you how it lays in there this piece is to the left hand or right hand side of the table sauce table itself and fits up tight and flush like that and then we're going to just take our screw gun inch and a qu screws and screw down through the stretcher pieces that we put on and that will give us a really good tight hold onto our sub deck and then we turn our cheat sheet around our cheat stick and when we put our top piece on we're going to be just perfect okay let me go ahead and get this piece put on and we'll come back after that well I promise you we'd come back after we got the subdeck on and doesn't it look awesome this is going to give us so much Works Space now we're getting ready to put the white melamine top on that will be our finished top as you remember I drew out a little map of what sizes we have our sizes listed here and I also marked on my table where my seams are going to be this dark line right here and this dark line over here will indicate where the seams of my white melamine are now my seams for my subtop are here here and here and so my white melamine is going to lap over like that just like I had talked about giving us extra strength and a smoother top now that we have this we can cut our top really easy so let's go ahead cut our pieces and get our top put on we're going to do the majority of our installation with screws down through the top and around the sides I'm going to come from underneath the reason I do that is because it's an easy way to swap out the Top If I ever got it damaged or I needed a new top for whatever reason wore it out then I could swap out the top real easy by just backing the screws out and putting down a new level of white melamine let's get [Music] started we have our white melamine all cut to size the only thing I haven't done is put the screws in it yet and I will do that and I'm going to run a bullnose around the outside and kind of soften up the edges a little bit I want to make sure all my seams are perfectly lined up and everything and that's going to take a little bit of time I want to come back right at the very end and show it to you with all the screws in it and ready to go and just show you what a wonderful workspace this is going to be see you in a minute well what do you think it came together just like I had hoped now this is a big outfeed table for a saw and I understand that if you have a small Workshop this this might be a little bit too much but the construction application is the same you start with your space you decide how big you want to go you build some good sturdy columns you put a nice top on it so that you have uh the ability to slide wood across and you go to work just like I'm going to do this is a wonderful opportunity for us to be able to build more to show you how and we're going to be doing the rest of our shop very soon we have a workbench we have we have an assembly table we have a chopa station these things will be coming up and so I'd like you to invite you to subscribe and to watch us as we put our little garage shop together having a great place to work and the capabilities of doing the work that you would like to do is very important in your shop and so let's get busy on some more stuff when they we return on woodworking with Wes

Channel: Woodworking With Wes

Views: 356,489

Keywords: work bench, table saw bench, wood shop, cabinet shop, table saw cuts, table saw fence, outfeed table for table saw, building a bench for your table saw, table saw outfeed table, beginner woodworkers, diy, diy woodworking, diy woodworkers, furniture making, saw blade, cabinet maker, 'cabinet building, building in a woodshop, woodworkingwithwes, how to build with wood, woodshop set up, set up your woodshop, setting up a work station in your woodshop, garage woodworking

Id: fpUkmGI_2No

Length: 18min 54sec (1134 seconds)

Published: Sat Dec 09 2023