Making Tongue And Groove Flooring From A Fallen Tree.

hey there welcome to farm craft in a previous video i found this fallen tree in the woods cut it up dragged it to my sawmill and milled it into lumber if you want to see that whole process from the start i'll leave a link for that video in the description at the end of the video i loaded it into my kiln and now we are going to continue on and turn it into tongue and groove flooring uh [Applause] all right here's a bunch of that wood uh first step planing [Applause] [Music] so [Music] so here's what a board looks like before planing it's pretty rough you can see the marks from the sawmill nice looking board but down at this end it was a little thinner so there's still some mill marks and an area over there that didn't clean up but that's really close i'm going to go ahead and plane it on the other side now so i'm planing these down to three quarters and so i need to move the planer bed up so one turn is a sixteenth of an inch what i just planed was 15 16 so i take about a 16th off with every pass after i plane that we'll be at 7 8. we'll move it up again we'll be at 13 16 and then one more turn i'll be at the final just above three quarters uh so that i have a little room to sand it on the sander over there to take the planer marks out so here we are after planing the other side and it cleaned up very well so that means we can flip over again we'll get this side done this side is the better side so this is going to be the top once i finish it because this knot here isn't too bad that well that knot on the other side it's this knot is the problem rather not have that knot on the top and you can see on this side it's nice and clear so this is going to be my good side so let me plane this down until this is good and then if there's any more to take off i'll finish it on the on the back side cleaned up really well except for right there so i'm going to take another pass on this side and then the board will be done so as i'm running these through in batches that's what i'm doing is checking the side seeing where it cleaned up and flipping it over depending on how much i have left to take off if you can't get the board to clean up and you just have a couple spots like that if they're on the bottom it's not a problem that would that would be just fine obviously if it's on the top i mean you could hand scrape or hand sand that out but you'd prefer the top to be nice and clean so here's that spot and everything cleaned up that's a great looking board we'll get two good pieces of flooring out of that my final dimension just over three quarters of an inch it didn't want to feed through like it should and i'm going to show you how to fix that so there's two reasons well three i guess your feed rollers could be worn out but mine aren't if it's not feeding through it's either that your bed has gotten sticky or your blades are really dull these blades are a little dull but i should be able to keep using them so i'm just gonna wax the bed and this is just johnson paste wax they have this everywhere lowe's home depot probably walmart you don't want to use car wax i use this on all my tools not just things that have a power feed like this but anything that i'm feeding through this makes the wood slide so much easier just a lot less work for you so i'm gonna let that dry and then we'll buff that off and we'll keep going and see if that fixed it [Music] it's one way or another it always comes back to the johnson [Music] i wanted to show you what i'm getting out of this tree you know i'm getting some really nice boards like this i can get a couple good pieces of flooring out of that you know the flooring i'm i'm keeping around two to two and three quarters wide you don't want it this wide because you get a lot of cupping and then i'm getting a fair amount of this this has a little bit of a worminess to it but overall a good board now this floor is going to be a painted exterior porch floor so that little bit of worminess is not going to be a problem the knot actually bothers me more than the wormy but i'll get a couple boards out of that at least one good one this has obviously a lot of rod over here but if you look at this side of the board and on the other side i've got a nice strip of wood there that i can make a good you know probably two and a half inch piece of pouring and then some of it's you know got effects that i just can't deal with like this one it has a big big knot that's just weakening it and then you know there's this little strip here but then there's defects in that strip so that one is a reject i'm not going to use that for flooring but i actually have a project coming up that this will be just fine for so i'm still going to use it now i need a straight edge and we do that on the jointer look down that edge right there you can see it's got a curve to it so we're going to straighten that out so that we can run that against the table saw fence this board also has a significant bow to it because this is going to be thin strips of flooring they will easily straighten out against the framing of the porch if i was making furniture i would also use the joiner to straighten out the face of the board and take the bow out [Music] so a planer takes a board down to a constant thickness because the table is underneath and that's what you adjust the blades on a plane are fixed above the table and the board just runs through a planer won't straighten things out really it'll take a little bit of cup and stuff like that out but if the board has a bow to it it's just going to go through the planer with that bow and come out with the bow a joiner will actually straighten an edge because the cutting knives are on the same surface as the table and what that means i can hear the safety folks uh complain that i'm taking the guard off but so what that means is these knives will only cut things that are level with the table and you can see this board i've got a spot here that's not even touching here it is touching not touching there it's touching there and then up here so you can see that it's only going to take off the high spots or maybe you could say the low spot since it's upside down and with every pass you set your depth right now it's taking an eighth of an inch off what it will do take all these high spots off and i keep going until i get a constant cut the whole length of the board and you can hear it when i'm doing it you can hear intermittent cut intermittent cut and then once it's done you'll hear a continuous cut all the way through so let me do that and then i will show you the result [Music] [Music] so [Music] so it only took two passes and now you can see this table it's nice and flat the board touches that table the entire way except for right there on the end but that's fine that'll get cut off anyway [Music] so after i get a good straight edge on the jointer i set him over on the table saw for the next step you still have an umbilical cord attached to you [Music] so now we're at the table saw this i think might be the most time consuming part of this process you have to look at each board front and back avoid knots cut out defects where you can and try to maximize your use of the wood each board basically is totally custom and requires you to measure multiple times and concentrate on each cut resetting the fence each time [Music] we have to avoid this knot but this section over here is good see how much thickness we have there yeah just about two inches i'm gonna go two and an eighth we're gonna be into that knot a little bit but then i will probably make that side of the board a tongue which means you're going to lose a little bit more of that face set the saw to 2 8. so that's what i'm left with and i think that's going to sand out when i do the final dimensioning and that's actually a pretty pretty nice looking board that'll be a good piece of flooring remember this is going to be painted totally fine this here not so fine should be able to get two and three-eighths twice [Music] foreign this is my outdoor wood boiler heats my hot water and the house and the shop so i'm sure people are going to ask a lot of times you see the you see the wood flooring that's in a home they're small pieces they have the butt joints on the end well this is on a porch this is going to get wet and it needs to shed water so you don't want that if you do that you're going to get water going in it's going to get into the end grain it's just not going to last i need full length boards here if i was doing an interior floor with this it would be a lot easier i mean i could even use that you know that little piece right there could make a lot more use of this wood [Music] so this is my grizzly wide belt sander i really like this sander it was expensive but i've done enough work like this that it's paid for itself many times over if you hate sanding you'd like a sander like this too you know i can just run this stuff through and the floor will be ready for paint so let's get this stuff sanded up all right so here's my wood after sanding and i've got them all face up you know this is going to be the floor that you see i don't know how it shows on video to my eye there's really nothing to see there i don't see any marks or anything if i turn it over can you see the horizontal lines there i hope that's showing up let me try yeah i think that's showing up so those horizontal lines are all the from the planer knives the planer leaves marks that uh would show up much more once you've put paint on it so you don't want to leave it like that but these nice and smooth after running through the sander are all ready to paint now i still have to put the tongue and groove on there we'll do that next all right now to do the tongue and groove i'm going to use my router table so this is a porter cable 15 amp router this router table is one of the earliest woodworking projects i built it's not perfect but i do like it it was a plan i think from like the new yankee workshop but i'm sure there are many plans out there available what i like about it is the fence this is all made out of mdf has these gussets in it to keep it square these loosen and allow this slide to move and the way that works there's a little t-slot in it here i'll take it all the way off see there's a t-slot cut in there so that it can go on those bolts and then once you tighten these handles it'll lock it in position and that's how these are working too down under there there's some t-bolts that reach under there and then pinch the fence down to the table it's got dust collection on it both top and bottom and it has four mica on it which takes wax really well it holds up to you know a lot of rubbing which you're going to be doing pretty nice table if you want to do molding and you know make trim and tongue and groove things you definitely need a router table the nice thing is it has all these drawers to hold your bits you know i've got a bunch of quarter inch bits there i've got i think half inch round over bits over here and what am i looking for here the tongue and groove bits are right here you've got one bit that's going to cut the top and bottom off the board and leave a tongue in the center and then you've got the opposite of that this is going to cut the center out of the board and make a groove and those two will fit together and leave you with good tongue and groove flooring [Music] [Music] [Music] see that bow in that board you know it's still usable because with a little bit of down pressure you can straighten it out but when i was running it on the table it pushed itself up and you can see the tongue came way out of the center and then i pushed it down again and got it back centered but obviously that can't be used so i'm just going to cut that tongue off and we'll run that one again i cranked this down really tight but you can see i kind of over did it i messed up my feather board i'm gonna have to make another one of those these are all the same height so i don't really need a feather board for this dimension because they're all exactly the same so i made this steel plate and just screwed it into the t-slot so that won't allow the board to lift up off the table here's a woodworking tip notice this board barely contacts the feather board and isn't really being pushed against the fence i just push a spacer in there to increase the pressure i use several widths of spacers for this because my boards are a varying width and i wax the spacers so that it slides easily because there are no butt joints in my floor and the flooring is full length the width really doesn't matter when you have a floor with short boards and butt joints all the boards in a row need to be exactly the same width so here's a heart pine floor that i did some years ago and it has varying widths you have to pick a number and all the boards have to be exactly the same because as you go down that line if there's any variation in width you're going to have gaps so they're all all exactly the same all the way down the line so now i've got the groove cutting bit in there that's going to cut this profile and this is where having some scraps that really comes in handy when i do the groove they have to be it has to be at the right height all the time i have the good face against the table that also keeps things consistent and then you feel across and you see are you matching up right because if you're not you either need to go up or down with your groove cutter to get so that your face will be will be smooth my other advice if you're doing anything like this once you get your machine set up to where you're happy with it tighten everything down crank that router bit in place crank the router in place because as you're sitting there running stuff through if something moves just a tiny bit you can mess up an awful lot of wood ask me how i know [Music] [Music] and because i never want to have to deal with this floor again i decided to paint the backs i'll paint the top once it's down and that way it'll be sealed on both sides i'm using a traditional linseed oil paint for this paint is one of the few things where the traditional version was actually better than the modern version i'm convinced the only reason we use petroleum-based paints now is because it's a byproduct of all the petroleum that we use which makes it cheap linseed oil paint is a little more expensive but it lasts longer it never peels it's easy to restore you can always just put another coat on it doesn't off gas any fumes and in the long run it ends up cheaper for you it's really good stuff well that took a little longer than expected that's a lot of boards to to paint and these look a little rough but remember this is the backs and this is just a primer coat the final coat on the top is going to look a lot more uniform and a lot smoother so i'd like to show this being installed on the porch but i have more work to do on the porch before this is going to be ready and the weather is also not conducive luckily i have another porch that i did this already and this floor has been down for several years now this is ugly and i'm going to fix that this was an experiment i put this down i didn't put any finish on it i wanted to see if it would just gray and kind of look okay with no maintenance required um but i as you can see it's stained and uh i'm calling this a failure so this is getting linseed oil paint two after i finish the uh the current porch that i'm working on but here you can see i've got varying widths just like i do on the interior but i don't have to worry about the exact dimension of that width the board goes the entire length of the porch and then stops so you know i could have a board with a totally unique width in here and it wouldn't be a problem so look out for that in a future video hope you guys enjoyed we'll see on the next one you

Channel: FarmCraft101

Views: 2,378,421

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Id: kPdsOFrDFXU

Length: 27min 0sec (1620 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 11 2022