TIMING BELT AND WATER PUMP : MX5 HOW TO

snips 10 mil suction there's a line [Music] no we are not performing brain surgery today we are replacing the timing belt and water pump the first thing to do is jack up the car and then open the bomber now the car's jacked up the next thing to do is drain the cooling system make sure the coolant isn't hot while you're doing this as it can pressurize and go everywhere and potentially burn yourself remove your under tray there should be three bolts at the front attachment two bolts at the back attaching it to the subframe and two bolts up either arch once it's cooled down remove the radiator cap so now it's time to drain the coolant there's two ways of doing this the usual way would be for the drain bung here this way i don't really like as they can snap and then you have to replace your radiator so what i'm going to do is remove the lower coolant pipe here and try not to make such a big mess next we want to remove the air intake system which is different on different models but it's very similar so we're going to disconnect it here disconnect the crank breather and the air temperature sensor and the mass airflow now this step is completely optional but it will benefit you and that is to remove the radiator with the radiator out of the way you've got more room for your arms and tools down there when you're replacing the timing belt and water pump now we're going to remove the top radiator hose i favor taking it off the thermostat filler neck rather than the radiator as these could be quite brittle and often snapped and then the coolant overflow pipe be careful as the radiator can be a bit brittle then unplug the radiator fan if you've got air con you will have another fan here that you need to disconnect remove the radiator support brackets remove the overflow pipe from the top of the radiator remove the fan wires from this road and then once everything is disconnected you can simply lift the radiator up and out and then remove the two water lines that are connected to the thermostat housing then before removing the belt just loosen these three bolts on the water pump pulley you want to do this before removing the belts if not the pulley will just spin just crack them loose don't fully remove them for full instructions on how to remove the auxiliary belts go check out my video on the auxiliary belt replacement i'll put a link up above hopefully if you've done all this correctly and loosened the bolts off before taking the belts off you can then take these bolts out and remove the water pump pulley now to take off the harmonic balancer that's held on with four 10 mil bolts you'll probably have to hold on to this 21 mil bolt to stop the crank spinning when you're undoing these now you can remove the harmonic balancer just a warning these can really corrode and seize tight but with a little bit wiggling that should come off to gain access to the timing belt and to be able to remove the timing belt covers you're gonna have to remove the coil packs and the valve cover for detailed instructions on these go check out my videos on spark plug replacement and valve cover replacement i'll leave a link up above [Music] talk to me [Music] in my mind [Music] now with the harmonic balancer out of the way we want to remove this wiring harness and just tuck that out of the way so we can then remove the timing belt covers talk to me the top timing belt cover is held on with four bolts once they're out the way you can pull that slightly forward and up and out the lower timing belt cover actually splits in two parts an upper part here and a lower part there split diagonally the top part of the cover is only held on by one bolt lower timing plate cover is held on three bolts one here one near the water pump and one down here and now comes arguably the most difficult part of the timing belt job everything else is fairly simple compared to this part and that is to remove the bottom crank pulley bolt these could be really tight and see and the easiest way to do this is to get someone in the car stomping on the brake pedal make sure it's in fifth gear clutch up hand brake on just so the engine doesn't turn and then hang on it with a breaker bar and socket so robbie's set in the car and we have been trying for a while but this was completely seized so we gave up and in the end we've had to remove the anti-roll bar so it's just two bolts either side and the anti-roll bar can drop down and out of the way which has allowed us to get an impact gun in with the anti-roll bar in the place where it would usually sit you can't actually get a socket and ratchet in this gap so it is easier to drop the anti-roll bar make some space and you can get various different tools in here i'd advise to go for the breaker bar method first before using an impact gun but for us this was so seized the only thing that could remove this is an impact gun so now we can remove this bolt make sure everything's clean and put the bolt back in now we're almost ready to remove the timing belt but before doing that we want to make sure the engine is in top dead center and to do that we now need to align the marks [Music] so down here on the bottom crank pulley is a mark right there and up on the cam pulleys we need to align the marks on the cam with the marks on the timing plate to make it easier to do that we're going to remove the spark plugs so there's no compression in the engine we can rotate the engine with ease and get it to where we need it [Music] spark plugs out the engine is now free to turn that's why we've put the bottom crank bolt back in so we can put a spanner on the bottom and align the timing marks so the bottom crank pulley as you can see is lined up there's a cut out in the pulley that lines up with an arrow on the oil pump and then up here it is a bit difficult to see but there is this line embossed into the timing plate which lines up with a notch cut out of the inlet cam and the same embossed mark on the timing plate here lines up with the notch cut out of the exhaust cam so as long as this mark lines up with this and this mark lines up with this and these two line up all at the same time the engine is in top dead center with the engine timed up in top dead center we now need to lock the camshafts in position this is going to help keep the timing and it's going to make the timing belt easier to remove and there are a couple of ways to do this there is a tool that slides in between the cam pulleys to lock all the teeth together but if you are going to remove the cam pulleys to renew the cam seals you would have to remove this tool and you would lose your timing i'm sure you've all seen the next method and that is two adjustable wrenches with a pair of mole grips the adjustable wrenches sit on the hexes off the camshafts and then the mould grips lock the two adjustable wrenches together so you won't lose your timing but the tool i'm going to be using is the cam locking tool from jazz performance this does the same job as the two adjustable wrenches and the mold grips but with a lot less fat it's fully adjustable with two different sized hex heads so it can do mach 1 mark 2 1.6 and 1.8 and this is really easy to use i purchased this from buffy race and i'll leave a link in the description down below this could be a little bit tricky to get on the hexes on the cab just a little bit of wiggling and that will slide on once the tool is securely on the hexes you then want to do up the two bolts that's not going anywhere now we can remove the bottom crank bolt and the faceplate [Music] now we can slacken the bolt off on the tensioner pulley but don't fully remove it just yet then with a pair of pliers removing the tensioner spring now you can fully remove the tensioner and then remove the idler pulley now the belt should basically fall off [Music] so examining the belt once it's removed you can see the teeth are starting to wear through and it's a really good job we are changing this timing belt so you've spent all that time removing the timing belt you might as well replace the water pump this is the only time you can replace the water pump is when the timing belt is off these two jobs usually go hand in hand usually when you do a timing belt you do a water pump at the same time the old water pump is only held in with a few bolts so let's get removing it so we need to release the alternator from the water pump that's just one bolt then down this side of the water pump is a water neck that goes towards the back of the block that's just held on with two bolts and then gently price that away from the water pump and the water pump is only held on with four bolts with a little persuasion the water pump should just fall off once the water pump is out of the way make sure you've removed all the old gasket and both mate and faces are nice and clean with all the mate and faces nice and clean it's now time to install the water pump and you know me i do like a lot of sealant pop a nice fresh gasket on and a little bit of sealant on the coolant neck and the other new gasket and then the new water pump [Music] these need to be torqued down to 22 newton meters in a cross-like pattern bolt back on the water neck these two need to be torqued down to 20 newton meters since we're here we are going to replace the woodruff key this is an essential part this stops the pulley spinning on the crankshaft and for the price of them you might as well just do it while you're here anyway so this should slide out but sometimes they can be quite seized slot the new one in with the tapered end towards the block make sure it's all the way in install the new idler pulley [Music] and torque that down to 50 newton meters [Music] and the new tensioner pulley this little hole here sits on this dowel here just nip this bolt for now you still need the tensioner to move then install the tensioner spring put it on the tensioner first then using a pair of pliers pull and put it on the dowel on the water pump on the tensioner side we want to push the tensioner as far as we can towards the alternator and then just nip this bolt up this is going to keep the tensioner out of the way when we install the belt now we've put the new timing belt on we're going to put it on the crank pulley first slide the face plate on put the bolt in that's just going in loosely for now to keep the belt on then making sure we're keeping tension on the belt we're going to put it around the idler and then onto the exhaust cam now to keep the tension on the exhaust side i'm going to put a couple of tie wraps around the timing belt and the cam pulley this is going to keep this side of the timing belt in place while we install the intake side now we can put the timing belt this side of the tensioner pulley and slide the belt onto the intake cam now with a bit of force you can twist the timing belt and put it the correct side of the tensioner now we can cut our tie wraps off making sure to be careful you're not nipping the timing belt loosen off the tensioner pulley again as you can see it's taking up the slack on the belt now the belt's on we can remove the locking tool before talking down the tensioner pulley we want to do two full cycles of the engine [Music] once you've done two full rotations of the engine make sure the crank pulley aligns with its mark and both the cam pulleys align with the mark on the timing plate to double check you can count the teeth between 12 o'clock on the exhaust cam and 12 o'clock on the intake cam there should be 19 teeth in total after two full rotations we can then talk down the tensioner pulley to 50 newton meters after talking down the tensioner pulley it's a good idea to do two more rotations of the engine to check that the timing marks still line up after two rotations one last check you can do if you measure from the top of the belt to the top of the head and push down with moderate force the deflection should measure between nine millimeters and 11.5 millimeters with the helper back in the car and on the brakes it's now time to talk up the lower crank bolt to 160 newton meters [Music] [Music] the rest of the process is exactly the same as how everything came off but in the reverse order [Music] so [Music] [Music] bye [Music] now it's time to start filling up the coolant we're using a mix 5050 of deionized water and red cooling make sure you pull this in nice and slow this is going to allow the air bubbles to come up out of the coolant system so with everything bolted back on and everything double checked it's now time to start the car when you're doing this make sure your heating is on hot and inside the cab turning the heating on inside the cab allows these two pipes here to circulate they go into the heater matrix inside the car and there can be air traffic with the engine run up to temperature and the fans kicked on you can then turn the car off and put the radiator cap back on and then just top off the header tank in between the minimum and maximum mark so that is the timing belt and water pump all fitted and as you can see the job isn't as difficult as you may think everything i've used in this video is down in the description below thank you to my good friend robbie for lending me his car for the weekend and giving me a helping hand a huge thank you to caspar ballet and vinyl for lending me their bae if this video did help you in any way leave it down in the comments below and leave us a like don't forget to subscribe if you're new and i'll see you in the next one [Music] [Music] why don't we [Music] do i look like i'm pulling a sexy pose can you see my ass yes you can see my ass can you come in a bit closer

Channel: Project380

Views: 55,475

Keywords: MX5, MIATA, 1.8, MAZDA, MX5 SERVICE, MIATA SERVICE, mazda service, timing belt, gates water pump, water pump, mx5 water pump, miata water pump, mx5 timing belt, miata timing belt, jass performance, cam locking tool, mx5 cam lock tool, miata cam lock tool, mx5 timing kit, miata timing kit, mx5 timing lock, miata timing lock, mx5 top dead centre, miata top dead centre, tdc, mx5 tdc, miata tdc

Id: 66v2KCSems8

Length: 21min 40sec (1300 seconds)

Published: Thu Jun 09 2022