Party Miatas: The ULTIMATE Timing Belt & Water Pump Tutorial!

sup guys so I heard some partying in the driveway last night I'm gonna go try to friggin figure out the heck was going on someone left the garage door open this peek Daniels hose a coolant Jaeger moly captain Rotella what on earth happened oh that's that's beautiful that is beautiful what are you responsible for this sure shame on you wake up wake up time to get up now you look great so as you can see old broken boosted here's got a little bit of a party habit likes to drink a little bit too much oil cooling we're gonna fix that today welcome to the timing belt water pump and front reseal maintenance I'm gonna be showing you how to replace your timing belt water pump thermostat cam shaft seals front crankshaft seal and valve cover gasket the only thing other than basic hand tools that you'll need is a tube of silicone gasket maker I always like to use the black stuff because I know that once you go black your leaks will never come back this is also a good time to replace your rubber fuel lines radiator hoses heater hoses radiator cap radiator vacuum lines spark plugs spark plug wires change your oil change your air filter basically anything on the entire engine that's rubber or could wear out or crack over time you want to get started by putting your car on jack stands in the front removing your radiator cap and I'm threading that big Philip set plug to drain the coin move the radiator it's not 100% necessary to do this step but it does give you a lot more room in the front of the engine so go ahead and remove those clamps same thing with the lower radiator hose all you got to do is get that clamp out of the way go ahead and pull this hose off and grab a ratchet with a 12 millimeter socket on the side of the radiator right here and sing spot on the other side there's a 12 millimeter bolt on either side just go ahead and remove those bolts and plug the fans if your car does have AC you're going to have a couple 10 millimeter nuts holding these AC lines onto the radiator so you'll have to remove those as well remove the coolant overflow hose remove the intake crossover tube just loosen this hose clamp with a 10 millimeter remove the line for your vent tube remove the line for your is CV and just loosen it on the afm side the last thing is that little 10 millimeter bolt hiding down there but ready to take it off remove your spark plug wires disconnect your PCV hose and loosen all of the bolts on the valve cover I like to do it in somewhat of a crisscross pattern just breaking them loose it's not likely but it is possible to crack a valve cover by just taking one bolt completely out at a time unplug your thermal switch and remove the two bolts on top of the housing remove your upper timing cover with these four 10 millimeter bolts I'm getting ready to remove the accessory belts but before you loosen any of the tensioners you want to crack loose the ten millimeter bolts on your water pump pulley I'm going to remove the power steering and air conditioning belt first to do that you're going to have to break loose is 14 millimeter nut that you'll have access to through the pulley this 14 millimeter bolt 12-millimeter not there and then this actually controls attention on the pump so you'll just loosen this and then when the belt is loose enough you can just go ahead and pull it off the alternator and water pump belt is the same concept you have a fourteen millimeter down here you need to crack that loose back behind the alternator there's a 12 millimeter bolt right here and then you have another 12 millimeter that controls the tension so first you loosen up this one then just loosen up this one until you can get the belt off remove your harmonic damper and your water pump pulley both of which are ten millimeter bolts you want to have the car in first gear with the ebrake pulled tight next you're going to remove the lower timing covers there are a few ten millimeter bolts left that will hold those covers on before you remove the timing belt you want to make sure that cylinder number one is at top dead center and what that means is the piston and the front cylinder as as high as it can go you want to go ahead and remove all of your spark plugs and then you're going to take a long clean screwdriver and gently drop it down through the spark plug hole in cylinder number one then you'll take a ratchet with a 21 millimeter socket on it spin the engine once that's very top point you know you're at top dead center now I want to lock the engine at top dead center flying Miata makes a really cool tool that goes in between your cam gears and it has teeth on it and it locks the cams in place but I'm gonna be doing the cam seals so I need to take the gears off and I still want everything to stay in place so this is a cool trick that I learned online your cams have this hex shape on them in the casting and what you do is you put a crescent wrench on each one of those and be careful not to scratch your cam lobes or any other surface like that while you're doing this and you're going to take a pair of vise grips and lock it in place I want to go ahead and get the rest of these wires and cooler lines out of the way so I'm going to unplug my power steering I think that's the pressure sensor disconnect these coolant lines here you have to disconnect them to get the timing belt off anyways remove the nut on the front of the crankshaft you want to have the engine in fifth gear I think I said first gear earlier you want to be in fifth gear if you don't want the engine to turn and have your tea break set really tight to release the tension on the timing belt first loosen up this 14 millimeter bolt on the tensioner itself remove the spring back here take the belt right off have to remove the belt go ahead and remove the tensioner and the idler next you're going to remove your can gears you just grab the right crescent wrench and you twist them against each other few more ten millimeter bolts will free that backing plate next you're going to remove the water pump and that is done by removing the four 12 millimeter bolts that surround the water pump pulley mount and there are two 12 millimeter bolts on the side also you'll have to remove so here we are at the timing gear time to remove it these things can be near impossible to get off sometimes I am pretty much the luckiest person in the world because mine came free just by hand so I can just pull that thing off one way to get it off is getting a real long pry bar and sticking it behind the gear and prying against the oil pump one way to do it that can help as well is to use a torch and heat this gear up while you're prying next thing I'm going to do is I'm going to pull out the crankshaft front seal you want to use something like this basically what you're going to try to do is puncture the seal and grab onto it and pull it out without scratching any of the sealing surface that includes the crankshaft and the oil pump putting a new seal in is pretty easy decide with the spring he's going to face the engine one trick you can do is actually put the old seal over it get your timing gear another way to do that is to use the right size socket and tap it into place whatever you do you just want to make sure that you're not scratching any of the sealing surfaces and you're not using any tool that's going to damage the seal next I'm going to do the cam seals and I'm actually going to cheat a little bit on these and break these front cam caps loose it's going to make it super easy to replace the seals super JDM you'll feel it get nice and flat do not switch these caps it's got an eye right there for intake this one's got an e for exhaust they have to stay on their correct sides and when you're tightening these bolts you not over-tighten them there are very small bolts and they're being threaded into aluminum so they do not require a lot of torque if you're unsure on how tight to make these look up the torque spec so now I'm going to put on the new water pump and I'm going to start by installing this o-ring that's included with the kit down here you can see where the two twelve millimeter bolts from the side of the water pump came from this housing right here attaches to a hard line that goes back to one of your heater core hoses this hard line right here so you're going to have to hold this hard line click one hand pull this housing with the other hand and I already got it loose once you get that housing loose from the tube you can just barely see that oh hey after a place and the o-ring itself is actually really easy just kind of a pain in the butt to get down to it if you have power steering when I put the pump on I like to put the gasket on the pump itself stick these two top bolts through and put it in all as one piece once you start the threads on those two top bolts the gasket won't go anywhere next you want to do the gasket for the little housing off of the side of the water pump it's actually got this nice little tab on the side so what you can do is just pry away like that and then thread your two bolts in right on the side of that water pump reinstall your cam backplate here make sure your Woodruff key is in place before you put your timing gear back on and then go ahead and slide your timing gear back onto the nose of your crankshaft and then you can push that back into place install your new timing belt idler for the tensioner there's a little peg which is going to go in this hole in order to get the spring on I push the tensioner all the way up like this and just hand tighten I put the rubber sleeve from the old spring onto the new spring hook it on to the tensioner first get a really good grip on that hook with your pliers and go ahead and hook it onto that other peg so the cam gears on the Miata engine are identical for intake and exhaust the difference is how you install them on the exhaust side of the head would see that e that needs to be facing upwards on the intake side you have an eye the eye needs to be facing upward so here's our eye here's our e do I make you Randy for putting the belt on I loosen up that 14 again and I push the tensioner as far back as I can get it and I'm going to Snug it up again the belt on the timing gear first and around the tensioner and the idler so the timing belt is on but that's not timed correctly because I literally just threw it on just to get it on and you'll understand the method to my madness here in a minute what you want to do is go ahead and reinstall your timing belt guide tighten it up pretty good once the belt is back on even if the timing is not set yet you can also remove your wrenches from the cans may need to spin cams just a couple degrees to get the belt on properly let's take a look at our timing marks there's the triangle on the oil pump and then there's a little notch cut out of the timing gear cylinder number one is at top dead center when those two line up so what I'm gonna do is just gonna turn the crank backwards just a hair to get those two lined up the first thing I like to do is time the crankshaft of the exhaust cam so once you get your crankshaft marks lined up and come up here to the exhaust cam and what you're looking for is this eye that's on the cam gear it's got a little notch on the tooth right here and that should line up with that eye right there on that backing plate as you can see the marks do not line up so I can tell you that this cam gear needs to be rotated one tooth clockwise this is where it gets a little tricky and everyone kind of has their own method of doing it but what I like to do is slide that timing belt off the intake cam and you want to hold it so you're keeping tension on the crank gear and then we're going to do just get this belt to skip one tooth and I'm going to put it back on crankshaft marks are still lined up come up here to my exhaust cam look at that those timing marks are lined up so come over here to my intake cam it's got the same deal it's got its e right there and an e on the backing plate you can see that that is also a tooth off since I know the belt is where I want it on this side I'm just going to throw a couple zip ties now I know it's not going to go anywhere to get my intake cam to skip one tooth counterclockwise I'm going to do it the same way off of the gear and I'm going to check it again look at that timing marks are lined up one last check you can do to make sure the cams are timed correctly is to count 19 teeth in between the marks so I'm gonna do this real quick 1 2 3 17 18 under the zip tie and 19 teeth in between tick marks and that's how you know your motors time correctly to adjust the tension properly just loosen up the 14 millimeter on the tensioner and crank the engine through a few cycles once you're done tighten your tensioner back up the thermostat install is pretty easy so you put the spray side down put your lower timing covers on the same way you took them off same with your top cover water pump pulley you're only gonna be able to get these hand tight until you put the belt on and your harmonic damper the valve cover gasket is pretty straightforward taking the new gasket and putting it in the groove before you put your valve cover in place you have to use some silicone on the cam caps pretty much just like that you have to do it on each side of the cam cap on the intake and the exhaust and back here at the cast that camp the same way I loosened it with a crisscross pattern you want to do the same thing there's actually a specific order that's online I don't remember exactly what it is but as long as you're using some sort of cross pattern on this it'll keep it safe and it's not really likely to crack you connect your PCV valve reinstall your spark plugs and hook your wires back up put all of your accessory belts back on setting up the belt tension is the exact opposite of loosening the belts keep tightening the tensioning bolt both on the power steering and the alternator down here and you basically just want to tighten them up until you have enough tension and then you're going to tighten the other bolts that you loosened this down here the one behind the alternator two on the power steering you want to get the belts pretty tight but not over tighten them be able to move them a decent amount still like that but not hear any squeaking on startup other your belts are on you can snug up those ten millimeter bolts that hold on the water pump pulley torque your crank bolt the spec is 1/16 to 122 thats foot-pounds drop your radiator back in plug both your fans back in hook up your coolant overflow tank it's your crossover tube back in and of course don't forget to hook up your SCV hose and your valve cover ventilation hose so it's getting dark and raining but luckily all the left is hooking up your upper and lower radiator hoses hooking up the small coolant hoses that you disconnected from the thermostat housing and then just refill your cooling system let the car come up to temperature with the cap off and add coolant as necessary alright guys well that's how you do a timing belt water pump and other miscellaneous items that might be leaking on your car I know it was a pretty long video and I kind of trying to gauge if you guys like that or not I know it's super in detail I don't want to skip any steps when I do something like that in case someone is really new to cars and they're they're doing this for the first time so let me know what you think of it again thanks for watching don't forget to subscribe and I am freezing cold and very wet and ready for a pizza so I'll catch you next time

Channel: TheCarPassionChannel

Views: 364,658

Rating: 4.9560256 out of 5

Keywords: mazda, miata, mx5, mx-5, roadster, eunos, 1.6, 1.8, na, nb, nc, nd, na6, na8, timing belt, water pump, crank, crankshaft, cam, camshaft, seal, car passion, party, miatas, ultimate, Mazda MX-5 (Automobile Model), mustang

Id: HKHv5_d1a6I

Length: 21min 39sec (1299 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 20 2015

Reddit Comments

[u/TheCarPassionChannel]

Hey Reddit! I’ve heard a lot of talk about people getting ready to do their timing belts lately so I figured this video might help out if you’re unsure of some of the fine details. A lot of work went in to this one so let me know what you think of the style of the tutorial. My goal is always to make them friendly to complete beginners, but also be helpful to more experienced mechanics. Cheers!

[u/boooosacknoodle]

Excellent video as usual. Long, in depth videos are definitely a good thing!

[u/Arctic_Silver_5]

Great video, you broke down the process barney-style and made it easy to follow. I only wish you made this video 12 months ago; it would have made my TB/WP replacement much easier!

[u/ksuzzo]

Excelent! I am doing mine this winter and we just did an emergency belt on my friends car. His original one on his SNC 91 lasted exactly 123,094 miles and broke an hour away from home. Thankfully, we had a friend up there who let the car stay overnight and we slapped the belt from my kit on (SNC, the timing belt flange thing on the crank is only held by the harmonic damper bolts, not the crank nose bolt. So you can do it without taking the crank bold out!) so he could drive it home. Gonna do the rest over winter and this video is perfect for it.

[u/kollunz]

I was just about to order a new timing belt and water pump. Thanks so much for the video, it's really going to come in handy when I work on mine.

[u/feembly]

Big thanks for making such a clear video! One question I have is that it looks like there is some sort of protrusion on where the timing cams meet the timing gear. Does that help seat the timing gear at the correct angle, or am I seeing it wrong?