TIG WELDING STAINLESS STEEL - HOW TO TIG WELD STAINLESS STEEL FOR BEGINNERS!

hey everyone what's up welcome to another episode from Pacific Arctic welding my name is dusty welcome to the first episode of the start of my series how to TIG weld stainless steel this is gonna be an intermittent how-to series I'm gonna put one of these episodes out every once in a while but for today we're just gonna start out with the basics we're gonna start with the absolute basics of how to TIG weld stainless steel off everybody that's watching that regularly watches the show what's up welcome thank you very much for tuning in today for everybody that hasn't checked out this show before welcome my name is dusty I really appreciate you checking out the channel if you enjoy what you see today please consider subscribing like and most importantly share what you see today for anybody that would benefit from this video or anybody that enjoys it I really really appreciate anybody that shares this stuff really trying to grow my channel so that kind of stuff really helps me out so I appreciate it thank you if you're new to the channel be sure to check out other videos that I've put out we do a mix of all kinds of TIG welding art where we do all kinds of crazy TIG welding tricks we do take welding how to's mostly aluminum so far I've got an aluminum TIG welding how-to series I put out about five or so months ago if you guys have watched those already thank you very much for checking those out if you haven't bounced one over and check those out there in the description below I've actually been thinking about redoing those TIG welding ones I'd like to kind of redo them a little bit differently going to a little more depth on a few things so if you have watched it before if you'd like me to expand on what I went over in those videos a little bit just leave it in the comments below I like hearing from you guys I like knowing what everybody wants to see on this channel so I really appreciate it so a little preface for what we're gonna do today with TIG welding stainless steel we're gonna do something a little bit different from what you might see on most how-to channels there's a lot of good stuff out there I've watched a bunch myself just to brush up on some skills and stuff like that but what we're gonna do today is we are gonna start with the absolute basics we're gonna start from square one this is something that a lot of channels don't really take a lot of time to dig into and I really want to emphasize that the way you first learn how to take weld stainless steel or how to TIG weld aluminum or anything in general is starting with the absolute basics is very very important what tends to happen is a lot of people get really excited to get going which I understand because TIG welding is a lot of fun when you some cool joints and stuff like that put in front of you especially pipe welding and stuff like that it's really really fun so a lot of people are very ambitious to get going on the fun stuff what happens is not a lot of people tend to stick with the absolute basics so what we're gonna do today is we're gonna focus on those basics we're gonna sit on square one and really drill down on how to really get going with TIG welding you can use this to relate to aluminum TIG welding but we are gonna be going over stainless steel specifically today if you're a little more advanced I definitely encourage you to watch you may pick up some stuff I certainly funny enough watching some how-to stuff to brush up on kind of my theory is there's a lot of stuff that I realized that was good for me to brush up on so if anybody that's a little bit further along with take welding I definitely recommend just watching along just enjoy it if you already know other stuff that's cool I really appreciate you watching and hanging out with us or me I don't know I keep saying us it's just me so for part one today we're gonna focus on absolute basics that's it and the material we're gonna be working on is just a basic flat plate there's no but well no joints or anything like that a lot of stuff I've seen online for basic stuff starts with a joint so they're basically they're giving you a bit of theory which is good however their instructions on how to get going are on a joint right away and fundamentally I kind of find that this sets people up for a little bit of frustration right off the bat when you're tackling a joint or anything like a butt weld or anything like that it's kind of tricky I'm not gonna lie you hear a lot of people say this say TIG welding stainless steel is really easy it's not I'm sorry I hate to burst your bubble but it's not easy it's very finicky it's a little bit difficult and it's very reliant on our setup so that's what we're gonna go over today we're gonna go over a lot of setup stuff and we're gonna just focus on getting a good clean bead and getting our machine to run really really well so let's start off with some super super basics a lot of the stuff I learned when I went back to school for my weld supervisor and stuff like that but the first thing we're gonna go over is what is stainless steel so it may seem pretty simple but basically stainless steel is an alloy of iron steel basically what makes stainless steel different than mild steel is that there's an edition of chromium so anything that contains on average above 12 percent chromium and above is going to be considered stainless steel so what the chromium does is adds a thin layer of oxide on the surf of our stainless steel also called the passive layer what the passive layer does is it prevents corrosion so that's why you see a lot of like marine stuff like a lot of boat parts boat handrails and stuff like that a lot of handrails and outdoor welding in general is a lot of the time done with stainless steel specifically for that so anything that's exposed to weather especially where I live we live on near the ocean so a lot of stuff a lot of boat parts and stuff like that or mostly a hundred percent gonna be stainless steel because corrosion happens super super easy with mild steel obviously with different types of stainless steel I'll have a stainless steel can contain more and more chromium as well as some other stuff the more chromium that's contained in stainless steel there's gonna be more corrosion resistance so the stuff will be less prone to be oxidize or rusted or basically affected by elements outside and stuff like that so for the more chromium there's gonna be more corrosion resistance as well as chromium there's also other alloys added to stainless steel for example you'll see stuff that's listed as it has carbon silicon manganese and some there's also gonna be additions of nickel and molybdenum molybdenum all libbed in them I don't know how you say it but I'll put it on screen right there so as you'll probably be able to see if you look up a little bit about stainless steel some stainless steel is still prone to corrosion basically this depends on the different additions of alloys and stuff in the stainless steel also it depends on what it's exposed to and cetera etc so there is stainless steel that will still corrode over time and stuff like that and under certain circumstances it'll still corrode but overall stainless steel like I said it's been used pretty heavily in the marine industry around here it's used in food industry medical industry stuff like that where it's gonna be really dependent that the stuff does not oxidize and it stays really really clean so for anybody that's got some steel kicking around their shop how do you tell if it's stainless steel upon first glance if the stuffs been stored inside it's gonna be kind of hard to tell if it's stainless steel or mild steel a pretty easy way that you can check out what you got is stainless steel is with a magnet so for example with stainless steel because it has a passive layer on it you put a magnet on it it's not going to be magnetic if you put a magnet on mild steel and stuff like that the magnet will stick to it because there's no passive layer however with some stainless steels because like we talked about with a different alloying agents and stuff like that you can have certain combinations of different types of stainless steel there are some stainless steels that will be slightly magnetic or kind of magnetic so as a matter of fact some stainless steels there's a one classification called ferritic stainless steel I think that has lower than ten percent chromium this will react to a magnet so it will be magnetic so you can't always use the magnet trick as a surefire way to tell if it is in fact stainless steel it's just kind of an easy way to generally tell that what you've got is stainless steel most stuff you'll have kicking around your shop like some scrap will be like a 304 stainless steel or something like that these ones are super common and these ones are the ones that contain more than 12 percent chromium so they will not react to a magnet but like I said it's not always the easiest way to tell because you may run into some stainless steels where they will react to a magnet it may trick you and think that you're dealing with a mild steel but for the most part for whatever you got kicking around the shop it won't react to a magnet so chances are you'll be able to tell fairly easy if it's stainless or not so well we're gonna start with here right now is the most important part of how to take weld stainless steel or torch setup a lot of people tend to kind of look at their gear get it set up and think it's good enough that's cool a lot of people kind of gloss over this part they basically set up their gear it seems to be running cool and then on they go and they try and do some TIG welding basically it's something that not a lot of people take a lot of time to really make sure that they understand exactly how everything should go together and how to get it running really clean right off the bat so that's what we're gonna do right now we're gonna go over our torch that off so as you can see here we got two different torches here these are both pretty common torches that you'll find basically with some kind of TIG welding setup chances are you're gonna have one of these two different torches these guys are from CK worldwide CK worldwide is probably one of the most common take welding gear companies they distribute stuff all over the planet obviously is called world wide but they make really really nice TIG weld stuff I got this stuff from them a couple weeks ago and I've really been itching to kind of break it out and give it a good and give a good demo with it so so if you haven't already check out CK and Worldwide's website I'll put it on screen right now go there they got all kinds of gear you'll be able to get set up with good gas lenses good gas diffusers and stuff like that anything that you're going to need to get a good take welding setup going you're gonna be able to find it on that website so I definitely recommend you go check it out so are two different torch setups we got here this one here is one of the slimmer ones that you can get for TIG welding setup this is a ste k-9 style torch so it's an air-cooled torch but basically the hardware so the nine style hardware will work for a water-cooled torch as well and the water-cooled version of this torch is a CK 20 style torch this guy over here is a bit of a higher amperage torch so you can use this again it's gonna be air-cooled when I hook it up to the hose here this is the CK 17 style torch but you can see here I've basically got a general setup of the different types of collet setups that you can find to weld stainless steel with these torches so we'll start off with the CK nine style torch and I'll show you kind of a different setup that you can run with these guys here the most basic setup I saw for a nine style torch that I would learn on something like this there's like a gas diffuser so it's basically like a small collet this collet here is called a split wedge call it because it has like a little split in it and the difference between the two different types of costs you can get is this one on the right here this is just a basic wedge call it so there's no slit in it it's basically just a wedge style call it those are the two different style intercal it's that you can use for stainless steel as well as the aluminum but this is what we're gonna be going over for stainless steel here so this is the gas diffusers style out or call it body so the inner collet sleeve will go under the outer call it body like so it will pinch the tungsten shut you will pinch the tungsten so that the tungsten will stay at the length you set it for like so and then the gas comes out these little gas gas holes it comes out the little gas holes there and that's basically how it works and then you put a cup on top of it like so and then a cup will direct your gas out the end so and that's basically how you get your gas coverage set up with a pretty basic setup like a like this guy here so this again this is a gas diffuser setup they worked fine like I said this is kind of the stuff that I learned on you still gives you good gas coverage and stuff like that but there's no gas screens or extra other things you have to worry about especially when you're first learning I'm gonna be dipping you're gonna be make a little bit of a mess with your uh with your Tungsten's I'll get ready for that might be easier to start with something like so because it's super simple and you're not gonna damage your gas screens or anything like that by dipping your tungsten and contaminating it so like I mentioned this is the gas lens style call it set up for a SEK nine style torch so again we got the wedge call it which I really really like these guys they tend to handle heat a lot better over time with the split call it the split call it's tend to warp pretty easily over time obviously because there's a slit in the middle each side can seat up a lot faster they're a little bit thinner so over time they tend to distort quite a bit which can cause a little bit of gas problems with the way your torch is running so I would encourage if you can if you go on to CK's website look for the wedge Collins the wedge calls are super super nice they don't tend to distort as much they take the heat overtime a little bit better so I would prefer to use these pretty much all the time now your wedge style call it will go into the outer call it body now this guy is a 3/32 gas lens setup so as you can see here this guy I've done a bunch of welding with and look how clean the gas screen is so if you're ever setting up and you have a gas screen that looks like like something like this it's just a mess it's a total mess you're gonna get gas deflection gas is not going to come out in an even spread so you want something like this here this guy is gonna be nice and clean I generally try and clean it as often as I can what I do is I tend to clean it with a wire brush I don't count on the wire brush on it and scratch the hell out of it I just tend to kind of press it to it and turn it slightly the reason that you don't want to go too aggressively with a wire brush on your gas screens you can puncture the screens you puncture the screen it's pretty much garbage it's it's not going to run very smoothly at all you can get an uneven gas spread coming out of it the idea of a gas lens is that the gas comes out in a super smooth gas cut so if you have any kind of tear or any kind of hole or a bunch of spatter and other because of garbage and whatnot stuck to it it's gonna be an uneven gas spread so you want to keep it nice and clean like this here but basically what this does is this will go into your torch as well just like it will with a gas diffuser type set up and then you can do a couple different types of setup for cups you can do something like this ceramic cup here the ceramic cup just screws over top like so and your tungsten sticks at the end there's also a different type setups is like this is one from Michael Furyk so Furyk cups I'll put that on screen right now check out that website that guy's got a lot of amazing amazing stuff this is a number 12 cup it's pretty huge pretty extreme but it's awesome so any kind of coping and stuff like that where you're welding around tubing something like this is really really sweet but same deal it just screws to your outer call it body you set your tungsten stick out etc and you're off to the races with something like that probably one of my favorite ones I've been running lately is this these set of cups from edge edge welding cups I'll put that on screen as well these guys make phenomenal stuff I really really like this company this comes with a little adapter like so the little adapter goes over it like that and then the cup slides over these o-rings and you get a proper gas seal and that's the way that guy will set up you get a nice clean art with any of these setups here but it's basically how you make sure you put your stuff together that's going to be really important for how you get the proper gas seal so for the 17 style torch it's almost the same thing but it's slightly different so again we've got our wedge call it so the wedge call it is a lot bigger for this because obviously the torch is meant to carry a little bit more amperage a little bit more heavy duty you can do some aluminum welding and stuff with with this guy here however this thing rips for stainless really really well too so again our wedge call it goes into the outer collet body this is the gas lens type setup again so we got our screens in there they're pretty clean everything looks real good I might even give that a little bit of a scratch next time I use this one but today we're gonna be using the nine style torch but for the sake of showing you today what you want to do is you want to make sure that this threads in to the torch head and then what's really really important is that your back cap is loose and this guy has tightened in all the way when you tighten it in you don't need to absolutely clamp it down you just want to give it a little squeak with your MIG pliers or your welding pliers whatever you want to call so that it's not going to be loose and this guy is still loose basically what can happen is if this is wound in all the way when you go to wind your gas when you little wind your odor call it body all the way in it will bonk into the end of this guy that's threaded in too far then what will happen as you start welding this will back off because of the heat expansion will cause your call it to move slightly and then all of a sudden all this gear inside will be loose so you want to make sure that when you put the gas lens you call it and everything on that this guy is done up nice and tight while this is still loose and then you set your tungsten stick out distance and then you tighten this up that way you've got a good gas deal everything's put together really well put a cup overtop and you're ready to rock okay so now that we've been over our torch set up we're gonna go over a little bit of a gas and machine setup here so for today I'm gonna be using a hundred percent argon as our gas shielding or argon is pretty typical with stainless steel welding gives a nice clean gas cloud depending on how you set it up as far as your post flow as well as your working pressure through your regulator you're gonna tend to be able to keep away all oxidization and keep your weld super clean so we're just getting started here so what i'm gonna do is i'm probably gonna set on a working pressure through my gas regulator to about 15 or 17 cfh that's a cubic feet per hour now Cowboys from Hell like I used to think shadow telling my Pantera fans out there but again our range of about fifteen to seventeen and a half cfh is gonna give you a really good gas coverage if you tend to have too low of gas coverage as you move away from a weld area it's gonna oxidize very quickly you're not gonna have a lot of gas spread over the area that you're welding in if you're doing the longer especially around pipe and stuff like that we tend to go around a corner or something like that as you go around corners or you move on with longer welds if you don't have an adequate gas pressure coming out of your torch a lot of that is going to very quickly oxidize behind you so you'll be running a really nice clean weld however as you move your ass coverage away from the stuff that is still really really hot it will oxidize following you so for example I'll show a couple pictures right now of just some examples that I've seen there machines are running really really well however the gas coverage is not quite adequate so there's as you can see the weld area looks very great anytime you see weld areas that look for a gray kind of crusty a little bit cloudy it's gonna basically mean that the weld material has overheated a little bit and because it was so hot the gas coverage that you had coming into your torch was not enough to keep that safe from being oxidized so what you're looking for as well something like this these are some welds that I've done where you see a lot of gold color basically of gold or a straw color is gonna be the most quote unquote clean or oxide free type of welding a little bit of color is pretty common as well you'll have a group of people definitely online that will tell you that color is super bad it depends what you're doing color is a reaction basically a form of oxide so technically it is an oxide so essentially I've talked about this in in previous episodes you want to have your stuff set up so that if you're doing anything structural or anything like that I'm not gonna speak in direct terms of code or anything like that that's something that everybody else has to look up if you're working on a job however the cleanest weld you can imagine without any oxide is gonna be something like gold or a straw color or something like that so that means there's no oxide formed on the surface you got a nice clean set up going well you tend to find is if you run too much cfh through your working pressure so with stainless steel I find anywhere above 25 cfh you're gonna start to notice that your puddle is going to be blown around slightly so if you are Cup and you get a nice clean puddle going however when you start to move and you notice that your puddle is wandering back and forth essentially what I found is that you you definitely could stand to turn your cfh down a little bit because what's happening is so much gas is coming out of the gas screen or diffuser that you're using a new torch and it's blowing directly into your weld so you've got your heat focused in this little puddle here yet you've got a bunch of gas pushing it around so I definitely would encourage if you can run a little bit lower gas CFH than you normally think you should you get a more stable puddle which is really really nice and then you'll just need to keep an eye on the weld behind you if your weld is starting to overly color up or if it's definitely turning gray or anything like that you need more gas kind of finding the sweet spot between those two but basically that's a good rule of thumb of how you can tell if you've got not enough gas or it's going to turn gray and I'll overlay oxidize and overly and overheat it and stuff like that or on the other end of the spectrum we're running too much gas out of your torch your puddle is gonna be wandering all over the place it's gonna be really annoying so that's kind of an easy way you can tell all right so let's turn on the machine here I'm going to use my canno l2a1 pulse D shuttle to the guy's a can of weld I freaking love this machine go just wait for the fan to turn off here there we go it's a nice thing about this machine as the fan turns off after a second I did just do a review on this machine a full-out review we do a demo and stuff like that so go back a few episodes I'll put the link in description but check that up so it was a lot of fun break this machine down alright so what we're gonna do is set this up for some dc- welding so on this guy here we're gonna switch it over to DC it's already set up because our torch lead and our ground is set up so that it is gonna be running dc- so there's not much we're really gonna set up here on two-step obviously I'm using a foot pedal I'm just gonna control it with my foot the first thing we'll see here I'm running about a half a second a pre flow that's cool zero upslope don't want any upslope I'm gonna turn this down we're probably gonna run about and let's go with 90 let's go about 90 amps again we don't have upslope or or downslope because we're using a foot pedal but most importantly we're gonna run a little bit extra on our post flow so I'm gonna run about five seconds of post flow what this is going to do is that when I finish the weld gas is going to continue to come out for five seconds so that even though we're done welding we're still gonna have gas coverage to keep our weld area nice and clean so one way to tell if you have enough post flow or not what tends to happen is a lot of people don't set up their machine with enough post flow so wait you can tell that this is happening is if you finish a weld and everything you've ran is really really nice really really clean you've got good gas coverage everything's nice and shiny like it should be well when you finish welding when the gas shuts off after your arc extinguishes you get a puff where the color changes all of a sudden so what's basically happening is that the argon shielding has been cut off before the material has finished cooling to a point where it's not gonna oxidize so that change of color real quick is basically oxide forming because all of a sudden the argon cloud has been removed what you want to do is when you run your weld you want to make sure that you extinguish your arc and you keep your torch covering the weld what's happening here is the post flow is going to be running so let's say we set it at about five seconds so for five seconds we want to completely cover make sure gasps is still covering the area that we've just welded and then when the five seconds cuts off you shouldn't see that puff of color it basically should just stay the same for the most part it might change a little bit however what you're doing then is you're ensuring that you're giving it the gas coverage that the weld needs while it's hot enough to form an oxide if you're noticing that the gas coverage is still going and it's completely settled there's no oxides forming then you can start to dial your post flow back a little bit so it'll save you a few bucks on gas to run a shorter post flow obviously but you want to make sure you're running enough you're not taking all this time to set up for really really nice weld you run it really really nice and then there's not enough gas to cover it at the end and then it chokes down and it gets this super gross looking oxide on the surface so make sure you run enough gas post flow to stop this from happening all right so enough talking let's get ready to run a couple beads here so I've got some 304 stainless this is a super common type of stainless steel I've wire brushed it it's super super clean I know it's stainless steel because I bought it and I got it shared up for my channel here so it is 304 stainless steel it's nice and clean wire brush I did hit it with a bit of acetone I tend to usually hit most stuff I do in the shop with a quick wipe of acetone it gets rid of any surface contaminant that may have been stuck on it for whatever the shock when it got sheared or anything like that someone's greasy fingerprints might be all over it so acetone or lacquer or something like that will get rid of that real quick for you okay so we got our machine running here I got my clean material ready to go it's wire brush clean like I said I've got my torch all set up everything's done up nice and tight I've got a clean tungsten in there don't let me hear from you well then with the dirty tungsten have a clean tungsten in there it's gonna make it so much easier for you especially if you're learning what I'm gonna be using eyes obviously like I said it's a 3/32 tungsten set up and running a number eight cup I'm gonna be welding with the edge number eight cup it's a glass cup basically because I really like them as well as for filming you can see really well so I'm gonna be using the number 8 cup so because I really emphasize that we start from the absolute basics what we're gonna do is we're gonna run a well using no filler rod now the reason that we're gonna be doing this actually does anybody remember what it's called when you're not when you're welding and you're not using filler rod give you a second talked about our a couple episodes ago at ah Janice welding fatah Janice welding means you're welding without filler rod we're not going to be fusing any joints or anything like that but basically yeah we're just gonna skip out on the filler rod for these first couple passes because what's gonna happen here is if you're just getting started with TIG welding and you know what I even encourage this for people who are just getting set up with a new machine or a new setup or something like that eliminate filler rod for the first little bit reason being here me out here is filler rod is an extra variable so when you're welding and you're experiencing some kind of weird problems the easiest thing to figure out what's going on is to eliminate variables however I emphasize let's work from the other side of that equation let's start with fewer variables let's just run a couple passes on some scrap material like I've got here we're gonna make sure it's running nice and clean nice and shiny and then once we're confident that our torch is set up really well our gas dfh level to set up really well everything else with the machine is set up quite well or post flow still buzzing away when we're done we'll add will add filler rod to the mix then but for now let's just start with a couple passes just running without fill Hajin this welding or dry welding dry arcs is what I call it sometimes with my students but yeah this keep it simple start with that okay so we're all set up here I'm just gonna run maybe a couple inches or something like that we're gonna be working with about 15 to 20 degrees of travel angle so our travel angle is gonna be lean back about 15 to 20 degrees or so and we're going to be moving forward like so okay ready to go let's do it [Music] [Applause] so letting our post flow still cover it you hear the gas going and I just cut off there so let's take a quick look at it so overall the color is what we're looking for there we don't have any dark gray or anything cloudy or anything anything extreme like that it's kind of a gold straw color again it's gonna look a little bit weird without filler rod but basically what we've done is we've ensured that our torch is running nice and clean our settings are nice and clean everything that we need is exactly what we're looking for or is the outcome of our weld so we'll run a couple more of these just to make sure everything's running real nice and then we'll start adding some filler rod alright it's the same deal we're just gonna run a couple beads just make sure everything's running nice and clean I'm pretty sure this one's gonna come out well I didn't adjust anything I'm just gonna play with my travel angle a little bit alright here we go [Music] and keep the gas on it like we talked about with the post flow there's I'm shaky today too much coffee this morning was a late night last night all right I'm really happy with how this is turning out as you can see I added a little bit of a stepping motion to it that time again we ended up with a nice gold color it's pretty consistent to the first pass my plates heating up a little bit right now so I'm gonna let it cool before we start adding passes with filler but overall that's what we're looking for everything's running pretty clean so see ya let's let the plate cool and then we're going to start adding some filler rod so now that we know our weld is running pretty clean everything's under control as far as our post flow our gas cfh I ended up settling at about 17 cfh the Machine we went over all of our settings and stuff like that but one thing I will mention so we are gonna use filler rod here this is a 308 L filler rod so I'm gonna put a chart on screen right now so what this chart is going to tell you is basically along one column you're gonna be able to see all the different alloys with stainless so what this means is if you're welding a stainless steel joint where you're welding 304 to another piece of 304 what you're gonna do is find 304 on the left hand column and what you're gonna do is find 304 because that's the other piece of the equation that you're gonna be welding to it you're gonna find the 304 along the top column as well and then it'll tell you what filler rod you may be using for it so this is a 308 L filler rod but you can use this chart you can look at up on Google it's everywhere it will tell you exactly if you're running different types of stainless steel or whatever dissimilar types the stainless steel it will tell you what type of filler rod is appropriate for that weld out job so again that's just off Google don't quote me on anything as far as logistics of code or anything like that if you're welding to code or anything like that it will give you specific types of filler rod alloy and stuff like that as well as heat treatments and all kinds of other super advanced stuff we won't talk about here but basically that's a general rule of thumb that's how you can get started with figuring out what or filler rod you're gonna be using so for example we're using 304 we're not welding it to another piece of 304 but 304 usually calls for a 308 L filler rod that's what we got here okay so again nothing's changed our gas like I said a set machines cool clean tungsten clean your tungsten if you dipped it or anything like that but what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna set up and I'm gonna run this well real close to the camera here so you can see so what you'll notice is that I'm gonna start up I'm gonna arc up right here and I'm gonna let it chill out for a little bit I'm gonna add a bit of filler rod right away so what the filler rod is gonna do is it's gonna get a chance to sit down and fully wet into the material and then once I know that my puddle is wet it in fully I'm gonna start moving with it then so here we go so I'll give it fill right away and let the fill do its thing move it around a little bit keep the pulse flow on it okay that turned out all right let's take a look all right so as you can see it blew up a little bit at the start as we moved off so again a little bit of color is okay for demonstration purposes here but overall even though there is a little bit of color to it it's a clean weld we're not seeing any overly oxidized area so nothing's overly gray or really like chocolate color or anything like that everything's nice and shiny you can see the light reflecting in it there one thing I do always like looking at is our heat affected zone here so our heat affected zone is this little line you can see right there the line remained pretty even the whole time so anytime you're gonna see something where it's overly heated or there's not enough gas coverage to keep it cool this gap this heat affected zone you'll start out nice and slim like this and then it'll wave out real real wide like that and what that means is basically this stuff's gonna turn all gray it's gonna get overly oxidized because this entire plate is heating up too much but what we've done here is we've added a little bit of filler rod I feel the rod does tend to cool your well down slightly and we've got enough gap gas coverage to keep it from overly heating up and spilling out towards the edges so overall I'm pretty happy with this it's a nice clean well but basically a little bit of color for our demonstration purposes here is okay I'm happy with it because the overall quality of the weld is nice and clean and personally for all my art projects and stuff like that I like a little bit of color so you can see there's a nice little spot of purple there right at the beginning because we we heated this up probably the most out of everything here we hung out a little bit longer at the beginning so that's why the color is a little bit darker there and then it lightened up as we started getting rolling alright so because we're set up let's just run a couple more passes and just have some fun with it all right that's one right let's run well right down the middle here so again giving it fill right off the beginning and this is going to help to keep your plate from overheating because you're heating up more fill than the parent material we've had a little bit of a slower start on this one so I feel like this one's gonna have more color off the back that one turned out pretty cool yeah let's run a couple more because we've set up here it's running real nice [Music] [Music] alright that's enough let's take a look at what we got here okay let's take a look at how this all went it's played super hot okay let's take a look at it overall we see some colors we don't see any super gray or anything like that so that's really good so what we've basically been able to tell here by running a couple more beads is that our setup with our torch and our gas and everything is running really well so like I was saying if we were running not enough post flow or anything like that basically what's gonna happen is you can intend to see everything gray up and get really dull and chalky however everything here looks nice and shiny so you can tell what we got going on is a pretty good indicator that we're on the right track with our setup so like a sand the color on this last one colors tended to drag on a little bit more so we can definitely tell especially by this heat affected zone bagging out a little bit more the plate was getting really really hot so as the plate gets hotter it's gonna be trickier to keep everything under control and keep it nice and like you know the proper colors that you should however we still do have actual colors we don't have a gray or dull or anything the chalky stuff that I was talking about with overly oxidized weld so everything looks pretty good but you can tell our heat affected zone was starting to creep out a little bit more so this is due to the plate being a little bit warmer then it should be for practicing so if you're practicing I would definitely recommend try and stick to the middle as much as possible if your plate as you get welding towards the edge of your plate running passes out here it's gonna overheat really really quickly so you either want to let your plate cool quite a bit or you want to try and keep your welds more to the middle of the plate and that's that's we're gonna have the most success with getting a nice clean weld the world like I was saying the weld well the hygiene if you want to call it everything pretty good there's no dull colors everything has shine to it which is really good our buttons on the end are the same size as the rest of the weld there's no pit or dimple in the middle which meant the amount of time I use to back off the pedal was enough if you back off the pedal too quickly you will see a dimple in the middle here and it will sync the last part of your weld so you want to make sure you back off a little bit slower and you'll avoid that problem overall everything's wedded in nice and evenly the colors are nice and shiny our heat affected zone is not too extreme so overall I'm pretty happy with this so how did you do I want to see hit me up on Instagram I'll put it on the screen right there there's my social handle you can hit me up show me how you did if you're a beginner at this and you're just getting going I would like to see you manage to get a nice clean arc running I want to see pictures of send me pictures of your torch setup I want to see basically what you're running as far as gear I just like talking to people I like enjoy and especially seeing that people have learned something from my videos it really means a lot to me so if you got something if you got some value from this please share with me what what kind of work you got out of it tell me if you got any improvements or anything like that if you have any questions for sure hit me up on Direct Message and most importantly if you learn something from this and you know somebody that could benefit from learning they're practicing themselves share this with them I really want people to see more of these videos there's a ton of good how-tos on the Internet well comm welding tips and tricks fifth street fab justin Voss there's countless YouTube channels that have good good information out there so be sure to share my material direct if you find other good how-to sender to me I want to see him chances are I've probably already seen him I watch a lot of this stuff but sharing with people that are learning I'm really trying to grow my channel so again if you share my videos with them I really really appreciate that what else would you like to see if you have any ideas for the next episode on a stainless steel or any other episodes kind of on general how-to questions frequently asked questions I like doing episodes on yeah throw it in the comments below I like hearing what people think I will reply to you I'll try to at least I won't guarantee that I will make an episode of your idea but I'll for sure read them and I really appreciate people that hit me up so for the next episode probably won't come out for a little bit because I have a bunch of other projects I'm trying to get out on my youtube channel as well however what I'm gonna do is probably for my next one is I'm gonna do a lap weld will go over like a butt joint as well but a lap joint take weld with stainless steel something that gives a lot of people no problems but it's a little bit trickier you gotta pay attention to a few more things so what we'll do is we'll probably wait a few weeks and I'll get some thinner material we'll work with a more common thickness of stainless steel that a lot of people tend to work with which is something a little and what we'll do is we'll try and get some videos of how to on that stuff as well but again I really really appreciate everybody that watched this episode I really really appreciate every single person that subscribes and shares my my videos I really I'm having a lot of fun doing these episodes each one I do I learn a little bit more about my work my welding and yeah I really I love connect I love connecting with people so anybody that hits me up leaves comments I really appreciate it but again I hope everyone's doing alright out there get in touch say what's up leave comments below and yeah I really appreciate you watching thanks a lot have a good one peace

Channel: Pacific Arc Tig Welding

Views: 136,411

Rating: 4.9102902 out of 5

Keywords: Tig Welding Stainless Steel, welding stainless steel, how to tig weld stainless steel, How To Tig Weld, how to tig weld stainless steel for beginners, tig welding for beginners, tig welding basics, Tig Welding, Tig, Welding, tig welding how to, how to weld, Welding artwork, tig welding torch, tig welding gas lens, Tig welding art, welding art, gas lens, gas lens tig, Tig Welding Steel, tig welding gas, welding art projects, tig welding aluminum, welding tips and tricks

Id: PYc7NIcihV4

Length: 40min 47sec (2447 seconds)

Published: Wed May 20 2020