THIS IS WHY YOUR UNDER EYES LOOK DRY AND CAKEY || Concealer 101

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I love the Zelda welcome back to my channel and thank you so much for being here today it's gonna be another informational video all about under-eye area maybe what you might be doing wrong some tips and tricks some more advanced techniques so if you want to know more about that hit the subscribe button share this video somebody think might like it let's do all right so I'm gonna scoot you in when we do application so don't worry but today I wanted to kind of break down this kind of elusive under-eye area and this especially for people that are really 40 plus but I can't apply to everyone really I mean even in your 20s and 30s a lot of people can have a lot of texture fine lines problems with concealer creasing not wearing well breaking down throughout the day looking cakey how to get the right coverage things like that so it's gonna be a very kind of instructional a lot of information so please bear with me it's I hope to really impart some information to you some aha moments for you guys and you know some really great takeaways so let's first start with prepping the under-eye so the under-eye area whether it's dark circles creases bags concealer not wearing appropriately or the right coverage all of those things can really be helped or assisted by the proper prep of the under-eye area now one of my favorite things to do with clients while they're getting their hair done or maybe while I'm prepping the skin is to use under eye patches now pick your favorite pixie make some great ones elf touch of course Peter Thomas Roth SK 2 basically and there's a gamut of them out in the universe okay so you're gonna pick your favorite lemme know has some that was my favorite I actually just ran out of them and so I'll show you what I mean when I say under eye patches people go what do you mean so honestly I'm just taking them out of the package right now so I'm sorry I just know these work really really well okay these are the patches okay what they do is they go under your eyes they stick there and what they do for the most part is give hydration now what hydration is going to do the under-eye area is going to plump it feed it and give it the nor the nourishment that it means now the thing to remember though is once you put eyepatch is on you do need to let that kind of sink in and do what it's supposed to so I really recommend using eye patches at night as a support system to your nighttime routine of course if you're having an event or something special you can put them on because hopefully you'll have more time to get ready but the second most important thing is to really understand your skin type your skin type is important because some people are super dry around here flaky dehydrated some people are normal some people are actually really quite oily in this area no we're talking about this area we're also talking about the t-zone because this is where that t-zone is so if you have a lot of oiliness here you need to prep the under eye area very differently than you would if you were dehydrated I for the most part recommend using a lightweight eye cream during the day if you are more dehydrated flaky things like that of course you can use a little bit more richer eye cream but my philosophy is really making sure you take care of that under-eye skin at night so that during the day you can wear lighter products and so everything will sit better on top of it so for example what I have been using lately is something new these two are new to me this is the reboot serum from qrx labs they just sent this to me a little bit ago it is beautiful it is a serum lightweight gives just enough hydration that makeup goes on beautifully over it it's a serum and it has caffeine in it so it's great for you know de-puffing and dark circles it also has hyaluronic acid it does have retinol in it nice set amide for Rula gasset and rose hip oil so this is what I have been using I obviously use an SPF during the day but I have not been using this during the day I've been using this during the night but this is a beautiful one if you will make sure that you do have SPF on over that if you choose to wear it during the day but I wanted to bring it up but what I'm going to show you day what I'm using my another new one is the eye serum by is clinical and I will apply it now the reason being is I am normal under my eyes okay I don't have super dry under eyes because I do eye patches almost every other night as well as I give a little bit richer eye cream in the evening and I just tap it in you really want to make sure when you are using an eye cream that you tap that in that becomes a second skin then it's not sitting on top of the skin if you have a lot of problems with your your concealer creasing it's usually either your application or the stuff you have underneath it it's too heavy and it's not absorbing into the skin we're talking about concealer creasing and not doing what it's supposed to it's because it's not able to adhere to the skin because there's something very you know being a barrier to it so that's why I really recommend making sure that you use a nice lightweight eye serum also of course you know I have my whole jar of my whole thing of eye creams here but you also know that bioscience is one of my favorite ones to use during the day as well fantastic really really really beautiful alright so now we've talked about prepping the under eyes it's super important to make sure you prep now if you are oily okay if you are oily combination skin try using an eye primer underneath the eyes just a little bit just exactly what you would do up here my favorite one right now is make up forevers step one base eye and lip primer it's really good you just take a little bit and you tap it underneath the eye I don't ever really really do that because I am more dried to normal and it just will add too much drying capacity to that area and make everything look worse okay all right let's cut you in so now you can really see I have some darkness under my eyes right here and but again you know for concealer creasing I'm not the super best candidate for it because I don't have super fine lines at the moment had been having Botox for many years and so it's kept these lines at bay as well as I'm using a new tool that I think is actually helping so let's talk about how to layer your color correctors your concealers things like that so that they do not crease I really enjoy color correcting palettes this one is by NYX you can also do your other NYX which is just the peach corrector your color science total eye is perfection because as SPF 35 it's also a color corrector and of course one of my Holy Grails which is the Urban Decay's color correctors now I'm just going to just for sake of argument I am going to use this palette right here because I want to show you how to do it the reason why I like this is because it has a peach one which is actually for deeper skin tones it has a lighter peach one right here which oh sorry right here which I can actually combine the two to make my custom color for underneath my eyes or clients Mac makes one just like this tunes a couple other companies do and yellow yellow is gonna be for something that's a little bit more on the red so any redness on the face peach in varying degrees it's going to be linked to brown purples greenish Blues underneath the eyes or pretty much anywhere on the face so you want to pick the color corrector that is appropriate for your situation for me I have this basically I'm super dark right here so that is going to be more on that bluish purplish side and then same kind of right here okay so now when you're applying a color corrector another big culprit for creasing is that you are just slapping too much on and I want to really kind of simplify this a little because it can be pretty complicated in my many many years of being a makeup artists I've dealt with so many different types of eyes in the world that I'm able to customize things as I work with clients but I want to make sure that you guys are empowered because it can get kind of confusing so I'm going to make my own custom color corrector so I'm gonna take a by the way this is a tiny little Beauty Blender sponge you can use a brush you can use a big Beauty Blender I just happened to find this in my drawer and I thought oh you know what this would be good to use just today because we're doing the eye area it's better to use tools that are appropriate in size for the area that you're working in okay so I'm just going to take this I'm going to take a little bit of this color and a little bit of this color and kind of just make my own little concoction now I'm only going to apply this where I need it and I'm just using enough and I'm just using this in tapping motions and then I'm going to go in with my finger and start to tap this out you can also use the other side of the beauty blender and just tap this out my pressure is very very light very very light and I'm just pushing this color corrector in and making it a second skin and the goal here is to have it minimized so if you go in with full strength color corrector so that you just don't see anything anymore and then you add concealer over it or foundation over it you're gonna end up with a big ol mess because it's just gonna be so many heavy layers so working in thin really effective layers is going to be the best approach in my opinion I guess you'd say so you can see how much that brightened this up and took away this dust discoloration I'm gonna leave one side undone and one side done so you can see and get the kind of full gist now if you happen to have a little bit more darkness out here again don't do it like a full swipe just take it I'm just did the same color and I'm just gonna tap that in just a little bit and then use your finger some of us have redness which I do from allergies on the corner of our eye so I will take a color corrector out of the outside corner of my eye as well okay so do you see that again use your your favorite brand of whatever just make sure that you're picking the appropriate color corrector now if you are deeper skin you're gonna need a little bit of a richer or deeper orange or peach to do the same kind of discoloration on the face alright so there we are that is our first step and making sure that our layers are we thin and it's strategically placed okay that's really I can't stress that enough so making sure you prep the area with a I cream or eye serum that is appropriate for your concern and then using a color corrector that is in a fine layer now if you need more so say for example this didn't this didn't cover up all of your discoloration you go back in with another thin thin layer using the warmth of your hand and tapping this out making sure that it is really a second skin your fingers around your eyes for the most part is going to be your best tool all right so now let's get into cuz some concealers if you are super dry and dehydrated you are going to need to pick a concealer that is more moisturizing more hydrating you really need to be dry to have that kind maybe that kind of concealer I'll just be very honest with you so now if you are dry and dehydrated using a heavy drying concealer is really not going to be the most amazing tool to choose for that skin type I really enjoy using thinner consistency more hydrating concealers the problem is is the more hydrating your concealer is it's way more prone to crease and to move throughout the day I'm that's unfortunately just the nature of it so a lot of you guys are using these very rich nourishing and you know for example where is it okay alright so you know that I really enjoy the buy buy under eyes concealers from it cosmetics I do think they are really fantastic really superior but they are very very hydrating and you really need to make sure you apply a small small thin layer when you're using these literally they should be reserved for more mature very very dry dehydrated skin if you any fine lines around here or even a bag underneath here and you try to apply a really heavy and moisturizing concealer it's going to crease so you already need to be cognizant of that maybe tapping that out you know throughout the day or maybe taking you know a little edge of your you know your sponge and just kind of touching that out the little crease there but we all have you know when they smile they have lines underneath our eyes everybody does and so anything you're gonna put under here it's prone to move so these tips are just to reduce that one of my very favorites is the glossy a stretch concealer I have used this for years it takes so little but your mascara will smear with it because it has natural oils I believe it has the glossy a one I believe it has avocado oil in it so it has these kind of natural hydrating properties and it is going to crease and your mascara might run with it unless you use like a tubing mascara or a waterproof mascara another great one to use is going to be which is going to go to the next category too but is the tarts aqua sea as I was called tart rainforest of the sea aqua concealer this is fantastic so those are the consumers that I would recommend for somebody that is more dry but I wanted to point them out because you all are looking for a concealer that's going to be rich hydrating moisturizing making you feel so good but it's also going to inhibit and you know the wearing of your concealer okay yes you can set it but again those natural oils and all of those really lovely creamy yummy concealers when you put powder on top of that bad boy you're going to do it a strategically and B not very much and it sometimes can look cakey so I wish I had a better answer for you on that I'm going to use for right now I am going to use something that's in the middle so I love Charlotte Tilbury is magic away I think it's fantastic I've already color corrected so all I need is just a little little bit of coverage and a little bit of just slight illumination so this one has like an illuminating property to it makeup for ever makes one there's a couple other companies that make oh obviously YSL's to Shikata is an under eye brightener these are not concealer on concealer so but these things have a shift to them and this is what I recommend for people that are a coarse dry normal to combination oily we will get to you in just one second but this is generally what I use on every client and I'll show you why I'm going to take a little bit of foundation and apply that to my skin and I will show you how far I bring up my foundation so I'm just going to tap this on okay so here we are great so now I'm taking whatever is left on my sponge and I'm just kind of barely touching the orbital bone on my eye now I don't bring up my concealer all the way to my lashline because think of it you have a layer of eye cream or eye serum you have probably some sort of color corrector now you have foundation then you have concealer and then you have powder and it just has a tendency to get super cakey unless you're super young and have no fine lines and wrinkles or anything underneath the eyes which even if you're super super young everybody has something underneath here so the reason why I do bring this up here just a little bit is because it allows me to see how much concealer I actually need alright so now we're ready to apply concealer you will see me sometimes obviously just go in full strength with a concealer if you're just starting out or really having problems with the concealer try to do it this way it might be kind of a game changer for you I'm gonna use the Charlotte Tilbury magic away concealer you can also use maybelline instant age rewind for this one of my faves you can also use covergirl simply ageless instant fix concealer these are lightweight and kind of have a slight hydration to them and they're really really great for on average most people's under-eyes in the magic way I use to and what I'm going to do is you can do this also too with a brush if you want to like apply it with a brush I'm going to go right over that color corrector and tapping motions just like this tap-tap-tap color corrector tap tap tap okay again there's a and you know what I mean there's no need to do this big like thing underneath your eyes you can take your finger or you can take your little sponge I prefer to do a little sponge sometimes it just depends on how I'm feeling that day just try it both ways and see what you think and then whatever I've left on my finger or my sponge I'm just going to bring all the way out and see how I went in with just a very little amount doing it in these shear layers is going to be epic for you it's going to make sure that you don't have as much you haven't lived as least creasing as possible so now here we are but I also by the way use three sometimes two but we're gonna do it a little bit more because I want just a little bit more coverage just right here and I'm just gonna go again in that tapping motions and again you can just use your finger to your finger is totally fine just make sure your pressure is really light you're using your ring finger and you're just making it melt into the skin now making sure that you bring a little bit of that concealer you can take your I like to take my foundation sponge and just go over that line where I have applied the concealer and this way it will look more blended and you won't see that kind of you know line of demarcation alright so there we are so you can actually see the difference between this eye and this eye now for me it's a personal preference I like to be a little bit brighter under the eyes that's just who I am I will adjust it whoever the client is I will adjust it to whatever they so if you don't like a super bright under-eye which I don't call this super bright but it is done a little bit brighter because it has can you see the light reflecting qualities in that concealer and it's just going to give a blurring effect and a diffusion to that under-eye so that's just my personal preference for for me okay it can be whatever you want for you but this is how I prefer my under eyes and there we go okay now if you are more oily like if you are truly truly oily around the eyes they make a quite a bit of you know drier concealers for example the UA one which I can actually use but there's UA one is fantastic the jus a essential high coverage liquid concealer of course shut you know tart shape tape you know Laura Mercier's this one is fantastic it's the fusion flawless fusion long wear concealer it's great and those are some really great ones I can actually pretty much wear all of these but I reserve them for more special occasions but those are what I would recommend if you are more oily because they really dry down very very quickly and they will help with that kind of oil breaking through your concealer because of the alcohols in them and because of it some other flash formers and stuff that they have inside different formulas okay so I hope that this is making sense now if you're like me and you say to yourself well I really like where it is right now so I personally would stock and I would apply some powder but if you want a little bit more coverage in certain areas you can take something like one of my favorites is the NARS longwear concealer or the NARS radiant creamy concealer and you can tap just a little bit here so for example you need a little bit more coverage take your dry Beauty little tool or your sponge whatever you want and you can tap this out and you can actually use your finger as well so some people have a lot of darkness in here and one concealer or one formula isn't necessarily going to take care of this because of the darkness and in order for it to get and to look seamless and and almost unnoticeable you have to do a these light layers and sometimes you have to use multiple types of concealers unless you want to go in with a full coverage concealer which if you are more dry like me it's just gonna look dry and cakey and in my opinion not as polished okay so there we are so you can see the difference between the two yes I have used a couple different concealers but they have lasted me a really long time I have used very little and again I'll get up so you can see that it looks like okay so and actually in person this looks a little less highlighted it's the my ring light that I have on right now that's kind of electrifying this area but in person it doesn't look you know too light but you can see all of my darkness in here is now reasonably covered up okay so now when you set this with powder if you are more dry and or normal you know for me my staple is the hourglass okay I've been using it in diffused light recently you can absolutely use it on a damp Beauty Blender and really push it in and make that into a second skin you can absolutely use a brush this brushes by Sigma it's the high cheekbone highlight brush it's really good you can also use a powder a matte powder the milk powder is fantastic I mean there's so many powders that you can use but I would say if you are more oily to combination and you you already are gonna have this beautiful glow to your skin I don't necessarily know if a kind of a luminizing powder is going to be the best fit for your under-eye area I would probably choose to go with something that's a little bit more matte okay but for me I like a little bit of glow so you can use the hourglass also the haze powder from stellar is stellar it's fantastic and maybe today I'll show you how to use the haze powder so it's right here I'm going to take a little bit and please you guys do not pack on the powder we just talked about this how to set the whole face for a long wearing foundation and concealer that you just in my opinion you don't need a ton of powder and then I'm just going to tap see how I just tapped out a dry side of or the side I haven't used of my beauty sponge you want to make sure everything is nice and flat and there's no creases when you set and we're just going to tap and I'll show you how to do it this way I'm just gonna tap with the brush and this is the haste powder and that's it did you do and there you go alright so let's kind of round some things out and give you some extra tips so first thing is obviously to remember to really prep the under-eye area to the way that works for you hoping that you treated at night a little bit more richly than you would in the daytime so everything can go on flawlessly and seamlessly so the second thing is picking a color corrector and using it strategically if you need one if you do not need a color corrector please do not add that extra layer of color correction you just don't need it so really making sure you use it though strategically only where you need it and in the smallest layers possible again you will get really quick at this as you kind of practice but this is just more for like a beginner something that really needs a little bit more time and attention on this topic it's going to take you a minute so please bear with yourself please be patient with yourself you will get it I promise okay the third is making sure you pick a formula of concealer that fits your needs so oily you're gonna need maybe probably something that's a little bit more matte normal you're gonna need something that can you can wear probably both like you know something that's super Ridge something that's just kind of normal like skin like something that's a little bit more matte and then dehydrated skin making sure that you pick a formula that's gonna work for you but knowing the more rich and hydrating and moisturizing a concealer is the more it's apt to crease and if you are more of that drier you know more mature under eyes usually it is a more drier area so you're gonna use a full strength you know full coverage drying concealer it's really gonna make those fine lines and wrinkles be a little bit more prominent so finding the balance for you that really works and then again using your concealer in strategic areas again you've seen me kind of layer on concealer very quickly because I've done this for a long time so I know how to blend it out and such but again making sure that you don't use it everywhere you saw I used concealer just the Charlotte Tilbury just right here just right here and then I blended it out I did use a dry sponge you can use a damp sponge if you want to you can use your fingers fingers usually are gonna be your best bet because they're going to press it in to the skin and make it to be a second skin and then you can just go over it with a sponge after just to kind of you know blend things out fourth is if you want a little bit more coverage using a little bit heavier concealer but just in the areas that you need it and they usually aren't increases it's usually right here and that's usually where people have Hallows or that's where the bad kind of cuts in and that's appropriate to use a little bit higher of a higher coverage concealer there so that it brings that optical illusion of that popping out and then the last tip will be of course setting it if you don't need to set your concealer please don't I mean honestly please don't but using a little bit of powder for the most part is going to be a good idea in general again all the links on my videos below please go and look in the description box I will link all of my I videos below so you can just start to kind of go through them and they'll give you a really comprehensive well I hope they will give you a really comprehensive a way of approaching the eye area and making sure that there are some different tips and techniques that might work for you also using something like you heard me talk about this recently these are the CEO beauty pads now they make so you know I use this this one you can't really see it but I use this one which is the neck and then either decollete one but they have I ones so they have eye ones that you can wear at night now you can't wear eye cream or anything underneath it which is okay but you can wear them at night and that will also prevent the area from becoming as further damaged by sleeping you know on our faces and things of that nature so that's something else that you can try also just to be proactive in helping that area be a little less a you know a little less more a little less prone to creasing and things of that nature so thanks for bearing with me I appreciate it I hope that this helps you again check the description box for more videos and thank you so much if you also like these videos that are you know a little more instructional please give me a thumbs up so that I know to do a lot more and I'll see you on the next one wat slipper meet you by las
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Channel: Elle Leary Artistry
Views: 304,539
Rating: 4.9061208 out of 5
Keywords: Celebrity, Makeup, Make, up, Tutorial, Look, Hairstyles, Hair, Styles, Elleleary, Elle, leary, Ellelearyartistry, artistry, Beauty, Leary, dark under eyes, matuer eyes, 40+, beauty over 30, bags under eyes, how to, concelear, dark circles, aging under eyes, how to apply concealer, best concealers, aging eyes, no creasing concealer, easy concealer, color correcting under eyes
Id: pTHzSb2CGoE
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 29min 3sec (1743 seconds)
Published: Wed Jul 03 2019
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