This Audrey Hepburn Movie Stole Givenchy Dresses | Sabrina (1954)

foreign [Music] mode and today on hotline we are coming to you with a video explaining Sabrina the Audrey Hepburn sophomore film that cemented her as a fashion icon but at the same time was filled with so much catty fashion drama he said she said we had to get into it so without further Ado let's get into this breakdown of the film's fashion as well as some interesting information about stolen given she designs and a lack of Oscar nominations as we all know Audrey Hepburn is one of the West's most famous actresses her doe eyes her dry humor and acting abilities made her a Bonafide star but her fashion sense was something all of its own in this video we are going to be visiting one of her most stylish on-screen appearances and one that helped to cement her relationship with the French couturier Uber shivongshi now many may think it's the iconic movie Breakfast at Tiffany's but but it's actually a role Audrey did previous to Breakfast at Tiffany's called Sabrina I will say that I Sabrina on your own as this will be a loose retelling of the story focusing much more on the Wardrobe than on the actual storyline Sabrina debuted in 1954 starring Humphrey Bogart and a then Rising Star Audrey Hepburn with disputed wardrobe designed by Edith Head but more on that later Audrey was hot off her smashing success Roman Holiday which had only premiered 354 days earlier than Sabrina and Sabrina the movie had been adapted from the stage play Sabrina Fair written by Samuel A Taylor which had only debuted in 1953. the story follows Sabrina Fairchild the daughter of a chauffeur to the ritzy larabee family as she falls in love with The Heirs to the larabee fortune over time and now let's get into the movie so as we were introduced to a young Sabrina on screen she is helping her father wash a beautiful black car belonging to the larabee family on their estate Sabrina is meant to look like a chauffeur's daughter with her father being a working-class British driver for the wealthy larabies and even if she's meant to look a little bit more middle or working class Audrey and black black and white is still a vision however styling her without shoes is not exactly what I would have chosen for her Audrey Hepburn's go-to shoes usually wear flats and many could consider bare feet as the original pair of flat so I get it I guess but seeing as how we were meant to see the difference between the World Sabrina lives in and the world of the larabies this shoe choice or lack thereof is actually kind of a really great metaphor the movie was released at the height of Christian dior's Fame and when his new look silhouette was taking over the world but seeing this hourglass silhouette shows that even though Sabrina was of a working class background a hyper feminine shapes of the old couturier did trickle down to the masses while Sabrina might not have had the luxurious Fabric and meters of tool or netting underneath her dress like though she looked out at attending a party on the larabee estate her dress still carries that essential silhouette type bodice even tighter waist and flared out skirt Sabrina's look also adds a casualness and work wear sensibility to it with the black t-shirt underneath I mean it also helps to see that she's helping her father with his work too the dress is made up of a gridded motif as well which we can see up close which doesn't have the time consuming embroidery or delicate trims of some of the guests she sees then Sabrina from atop a tree introduces us to the actual larabee family who are incredibly wealthy and high up in society and consists of the patriarch Oliver larabee The Matriarch mod larabee their oldest son and serious businessman Linus larabee and their Playboy youngest son David larabee we quickly get to see David's Bachelor ways as he stops a random young woman in the most stunning dress not of the whole movie but like the most stunning we've seen thus far the way it fits and grows bigger as it descends is so aesthetically pleasing and I can't stop thinking about her little shawl it just floats so beautifully but we come to find out the issue with the dress this young woman wears is that it's actually just not worn by Sabrina herself as she is infatuated with David larabee she fawns over him so much that in her desperation she even tried to kill herself by inhaling fumes from the larabee's car but is actually saved by the Sullen and somber lioness and carried off to her bedroom we also find out that Sabrina is supposed to head off to Paris to become a professional chef she wears an apron over her dress which might have been a way to make a more utilitarian garment more exciting on screen or it could just have been that Sabrina was actually just trying to learn how to be a good Chef both are options considering it was the 1950s we then see a shot where Sabrina is in her room about to graduate from cooking school and writing a letter to her father she finishes her writing and proceeds to look out of her window even when wearing a simple white robe in the comfort of her own home an hourglass figure is created and seems to fulfill a body standard of the period it's incredibly interesting to note that even at dressing gown in the 1950s seems to have that Dior New Look silhouette Sabrina also proposes to quote never run away from life because she has learned to be of the world she even tells her father if you have any trouble recognizing me I'll be the most sophisticated woman in the Glen clove station and honestly I smell a Fashion Makeover coming out because Sabrina is coming back to the U.S and we'll also say Glen Close station is a train station in Long Island Sabrina I genuinely don't think you'll have too much competition in the sophistication Department the next scene is of Sabrina dressed in a fitted Oxford gray wool skirt set with black gloves and a white head wrap that has a black circle on the crown of her head which is a full look by none other than Uber dejimoshi the skirt is shin length and Audrey wears heels which may help the viewer distinguish that Sabrina has grown up and has truly become the peak of sophistication as she asserted in her letters and the way the head wrap is done is interesting as it has the draping of a turban but is made much less formal by being converted into this headband David larabee just happens to be driving by the station when he spots Sabrina he stops his car and doesn't recognize her and all of her splendor but I have to recognize that impeccable jacket as he loads her bags into the car as he should I mean let's also shout out the seven buttons they just have a deepness to them and the placement of just one right below the neckline easily draws your eye down into the others and Audrey's waist too and while this is a pretty important wardrobe moment this is the first on-screen appearance ever of Audrey Hepburn wearing Uber givenchy's anything now how did this relationship between the two come about well I'm happy you asked somebody needed to Audrey in fact asked the director of Sabrina Billy Wilder if Sabrina could come back from Paris really evoking the French lifestyle which I guess at the time meant buying oh Couture sure the larabies seem to pay particularly well shockingly Wilder luckily obliged Audrey and off to Paris she went she initially wanted to go to the master of shape crystal ball Balenciaga as was suggested by Billy Wilder's wife at that point in time now listen Balenciaga was considered a god amongst the okatorye so it's good to know she had taste even that early on in her career and there isn't really a clear answer to why she was turned away from Balenciaga as some have said the brand told her that valenciaga himself was too busy for Audrey While others have been said to have made that decision on balenciaga's behalf as Hepburn's arrival was very close to Paris fashion week but this didn't dissuade the young actress Balenciaga at the time had become the mentor to many of the young crowd in Paris fashion design we have Andre korres Emmanuel ungaro and Oscar de la Renta who had all worked under Balenciaga but Hepburn was recommended a young Talent who actually he hadn't taught a young aristocratic slim yet tall gentleman by the name of uber de Chevon Sheik now jivoshi had started his brand in 1951 and was known for his Simplicity and his separates he had worked for Elsa's caparelli the famous surrealist designer of the 1930s for four years before going it alone but one day he received a phone call from a friend named Gladys disagonzak who was actually the directories of Elsa's gabarelli's Atelier and also happened to be married to the head of Paramount studios's Paris Branch saying that and Audrey Hepburn wanted to meet with him immediately when Hepburn had gone to meet jivoshi he initially thought he would be meeting the legendary actress Catherine Hepburn because Audrey's film Roman Holiday had actually not yet been released while she was in Paris so when Givenchy saw Audrey he was rather confused his description of the young Hepburn was rather intriguing as he said he met quote this very thin person with beautiful eyes short hair thick eyebrows very tiny trousers is ballerina shoes and a little t-shirt on her head was a straw Gondolier's hat with a red ribbon around it that said Venezia I thought this is too much Hepburn would later say that she actually had never seen an oak Couture dress before let alone warn one and was actually wearing homemade clothing for the most part at this point in her career did you know she at this point though was only on his fourth collection as a young designer himself trying to make it in Paris and he didn't have as much flexibility or cash flow to help out this young actress whose movie is he had never seen even she told her quote I had very few workers and he needed all hands to help me with my next collection which I had to show very soon but she insisted please please there must be something I can try on he eventually let her try on some styles from his spring 1953 collection with the first being of course this Oxford gray skirt suit when she put it on it was obvious that she had the model-esque figure of jeanushi's own models and he began to quickly warm to her he said quote the change from the little girl who arrived that morning was unbelievable the way she moved in the suit she was so happy she said it was exactly what she wanted for the movie she gave a life to the clothes she had a way of installing herself in them that I have seen in no one else since except maybe the model Dalma the suit just adapted to her something magic happened suddenly she felt good you could feel her excitement her Joy now something about giboshi's clothes were so dashing yet they had the politeness to allow the wearer to be the real star I think that is evident in this piece which is in fact such a testament to the character of Sabrina she goes away loving this man and quite girlish and in Paris she transforms herself into a moral worldly and assured woman and I think the suit reflects that it's fitted impeccably and from the side oof it creates that beautiful curved shape also the flare of the jacket after it goes below the waist is truly phenomenal I feel that the wool actually holds its shape very well that even after Audrey stretches to hug and greet everyone the jacket almost jumps back into place which could be a result of the textile and givenchy's Mastery of fabrics and this excitement and joy translated on screen as well David larabee initially invites Sabrina to go out in New York but realizes the estate is holding a party that evening and he invites Sabrina there instead Sabrina is excited to attend even mentioning that she has quote a lovely evening dress with yards of skirt and way off the shoulder and that she did that was true the party then begins with David and his soon-to-be wife Elizabeth Tyson I told you he was a dog a wealthy heiress who's crucial to his older brother lioness's business merger plan dancing together Elizabeth wears a two-string pearl choker and a black strapless gown designed by Edith Head because she didn't have much else to do the look Elizabeth Wears Like David's interest in Elizabeth isn't too strong but when David notices Sabrina shuffling along to the party his eyes open widely and considering Audrey is wearing another gorgeous evoshi Ensemble his eyes have the right idea she saunters around that Fern in a white strapless organ de gown which features a detachable over skirt that flutters from behind her like a bustle dress attributed to the late 1800s the floor floral embroidery found all over the dress and over skirt more commonly called a detachable train nowadays was the second on-screen airing of the relationship between Uber and Andre there is also a noticeable difference in length between the actual dress and the attached train with the train falling lower and speaking of this train the black silk Gathering that exposes itself at the bottom of the train only further enhances the piece and once again reminds us of the technique seen in bustle skirts of the late 19th century the dress is paired with a short white Opera glove and a pair of black kitten heels and in a scene where Sabrina and David are dancing alone you can actually see again the Hem of the dress is black which almost outlines the white skirt overall the train also creates a silhouette that resembles a traditional ball gown shape which might also play into the idea that Sabrina's trip to Paris has truly set her apart from the rest of the ladies at the party she doesn't strike out at the traditional shape but rather plays on it in a way that makes her all the more desirable I also can't get over the way the organ D which is a quite lightweight fabric feels so dense as through sways around while some in fashion at this time didn't believe that Uber dejimoshi was terribly talented I mean let's be honest with ourselves it was no Balenciaga or Dior he wasn't even really a need of someone wrong but the way that the black floral embroidery creeps up the bust and overskirt like a group of slow and steady Ivy moving itself up is really wonderful David begins then to dance with Sabrina and even introduces her to his mother while telling her to await his arrival in his usual hookup spot the estate's tennis court and the matter in which the dress Glides with Sabrina as she runs off to meet David just adds to the magic now when Sabrina arrives at the tennis court you also get to see the back of the dress as she swoons over the net and Sabrina even swings the dress around in what I assume was an imagining of her and David dancing together which kind of reminded me of a peacock trotting around with its feathers down it's clear in the tennis court dancing scene that Hepburn is Magic on film there's just this stunning siren quality about her that you could watch for forever and it makes sense that along with Roman Holiday Sabrina was another leg up for her career we then see Linus appear as he realizes his brother is going to ruin his business plans and he tries to put a stop to it by attempting to woo Sabrina himself but while Linus was wooing Sabrina Hepburn was wooing Bill Wilder in filming the scene he became so enamored with Hepburn's on-screen appearance and really wanted to drive it home while there was so obsessed with capturing heparin's image that Humphrey Bogart who was chosen second for the role and was actually notoriously difficult on set of this movie complained that quote Wilder was getting only the back of his head in the tennis court shots because of how much Wilder was favoring Audrey and to be fair if Humphrey Bogart was wearing that dress that well I would have focused the camera on him too but he wasn't another interesting fact about this dress was it was actually originally designed in black with white train and embroidery but Uber changed the look after Audrey tried it on in the Atelier as he understood that the scene that she was meant to wear it in was held at a summer party and a black dress wouldn't have been as light and Airy in his mind the next time we see lioness and Sabrina together other is when he invites her to the larabee building as he continues his scheme of moving Sabrina and getting her to move back to Paris in order to keep David in line she wears another smashing dress by Givenchy this one in black and that would soon become Audrey's signature color the armholes are carved out while the dress is tightly fitted on her bodice with that signature wasp waist and flares out above the hips the dress is held together by two tied bows at the shoulders as well as having a little plunge down the back revealing quite a bit of skin but it's also quite high in the front the neckline was then deemed decollet Sabrina by shivoshi himself durud's popularity after the premiere of the film The dresses skirt is a tea length which means it usually Falls around the calves which for many can be an extremely difficult silhouette to pull off but Audrey's height allowed her to easily demonstrate a classic sophistication through it she added another pair of gloves in Black some black kitten heels and a hat by Givenchy as well and the look culminates in an extremely graceful demonstration of subtle styling and great craftsmanship of the French Oak Couture houses just look at her waist which isn't ajivoshi original to be fair but the fact that the dress still clings to it which shoots out that skirt like a rocket from the first millimeter of where her hip is is just tremendous and it was clear to everybody that the dress was a smashing success so much so that the dress began to be knocked off all around the United States I mean fast fashion isn't exactly a new thing if we're all being honest with ourselves here in this moment the dress regardless is absolutely major I mean that's clear without a doubt and it's a moment that sealed Audrey Hepburn and Uber did you when she's names in the fashion Hall of Fame it's also unfortunately the last time that we'll get to see this combo of Givenchy and Hepburn together on screen we then see Sabrina deciding on whether or not she'll be going to see Linus in the larabee offices wearing an all-black Ensemble with a large black wool coat wrapped around her that only runs Shin length and of course her skin tight black capri pants expose her ankles she paces about because she realizes she has no intention of actually going to Paris with lioness and heads up to his office with him she unveils the outfit underneath the long coat as she dines with lioness to expose a black fitted sweater and we get a better look at her capri pants with black ballet flats too which culminated in the quintessential Audrey silhouette one can assume that because this look is not from the shivoshi selection of hepburns that it was a look designed by Edith Head but something about it seems to show that head was taking inspiration from Givenchy regardless as the sweater is the same plunging neckline in the back as the decollet Sabrina dress as Linus's intentions to double cross Sabrina and actually send her back to Paris without him she realizes and walks with such an air of conviction which is only bolstered by the Deep plunge that one can't help but say look what you're missing out on Mr Larry Bay and when Sabrina delivers the line sorry I can't stay to do the dishes it only further reflects that Hepburn as an actress was defying this conventional Norm of how women could be portrayed in film at the time she ain't doing the dishes she's wearing pants events and don't get your boxers in a Twist about it gentlemen all right so we're about to wrap up the film synopsis here essentially the next day the Tysons and the larabies have a meeting and David eventually arrives and lets it be known that he actually wants Linus to pursue Sabrina as Sabrina awaits the boat's departure by herself because she was like listen I'm just gonna go whatever fine I'll go back to Paris if you guys really don't want me we can see her stretched out on a deck chair wearing another shin-length wool coat this time in some sort of lighter color that really can't be determined because well black and white movies you know what I mean but something about her black leather pumps white gloves and that upturned collar once again proves that no matter the designer of the outfit Hepburn could sell a cool effect Through The Styling Sabrina then eventually sees Linus aboard the ship the two Embrace and then the film is over kaput and now while the movie is ended the tale of how the fashion and Sabrina came to be has not this is where it's going to get juicy now as we mentioned earlier Audrey Hepburn went to Paris to meet with given she where he developed three styles to coincide with three very important important moments within the movie Audrey selected the gray wolf suit where she meets David the strapless white dress with train and embroidery for an entrance to the larabee party and of course the black bateau tea length dress which went on to be named after her character the synopsis nobody asked for now obviously Bill Wilder enjoyed these Styles as did Edith Head And for those that again don't know Edith had was this legend in the world of Hollywood during her lifetime she had won eight Oscars awards for her costume designs in different films and it designed costumes for Legends like Princess Grace Kelly of Monaco Elizabeth Taylor Lana Turner and Marlena Dietrich to name just a few during that time Paramount's in-house costume designers made the costumes for the films but for this project they were based on the young couturier's designs which caused a bit of an issue Robert she was still an up-and-coming designer at this point his own brand wasn't even three years old and although he had support both verbally and allegedly financially from his mentor Cristobal Balenciaga not getting credit for his work on an international platform was still a tremendous loss for his public Persona and his brand and head had worked on Roman Holiday with Hepburn and was excited to also work on Sabrina but had didn't seem to be excited about sharing the Limelight Paramount's in-house costume designers did make the designs for Sabrina like they physically sewed and constructed the garments but again they were based on the young jeevanshi's designs and as a thank you to Uber dejimoshi for taking a chance on the then unknown Hepburn Hepburn invited him to a screening of the completed film which he accepted he joined her in Los Angeles and watched the film alongside her but when the screen credits rolled his name was nowhere to be found the credits only named Edith had as quote costume supervision and remains this way still to this day but the issue is while head and her Department had created some of the costumes from scratch and had physically made the costumes that jivoshi had designed or at least allegedly that's the story they didn't actually create the inspiration for them and they were made based on pre-existing designs from an old Couture Atelier in Paris also took inspiration Asian to make some of the garments for the film based on those designs as again I mean that plunging black top in the back definitely is based on the decolus Sabrina given she was rather insulted by the lack of credit I mean like fair I would be too and later even said imagine if I had received credit for Sabrina then at the beginning of my career it would have helped but jivoshi was a respectful young man and didn't want to ruffle any feathers so he kept quiet about this light by head empowerment for decades it literally wasn't until like he literally was about to die that he was like oh yep me thanks appreciate it now the film went on to be very well received as between Sabrina and Roman Holiday it turned Hepburn into a Bonafide star even adding her a raise up to 350 000 which was quite the sum still is quite the sound and when Hepburn continued to promote the film as is still done today she actually wore each of her shivoshi costumes to certain premieres in order to bring the Styles into the real world and I mean we could say that this is an early example of method dressing now the Press Department also went along with this notion of playing into the fashion element to promote the film so much so that the film premiered in Paris just one day after she showed his fashion show during the Paris Fashion Week schedule the film and her wardrobe made Hepburn more desirable and it also gave her a bit more power when working on Films going forward which she would put to good use and when the nominations for the Oscars came out for that year Edith Head was nominated for best costume designer for Sabrina and was the only nomination the film received but the bigger thing was Uber dejivoshi's name was still nowhere inside it was well known in the Hollywood costuming circles that had refused to give credit to anyone including her own team and assistance even if she had little to do with the costume designs that were shown under her name now to be fair for the most part this is still an acceptable way to work within the fashion industry but the film industry has gotten better I think at crediting people's names over time or at least IMDb has made their names much more searchable now to add insult to injury Edith had even went on to win the Oscar it's not an injury to win but it's going to get injurious real real quick and in her acceptance speech made no mention of Yvonne XI to be fair to Edith had she pretty much made no except in speech at all when she won but if you watch the clip the way she interacts with the host calling her name seems kind of weird like she rushes onto the stage she gets her award she shakes both of the hosts hands and then walks away from the podium entirely and then tells one of the hosts to tell the audience she said thank you there's just something off about the whole thing it seems to even shock the hosts a bit and I wonder if it's because she knew that many of the designs weren't hers originally like was this an admission of guilt I mean who knows I would like to but I don't know but I'd like to in general Edith had seems a little bit sus head would further double down on this notion that she designed the costumes for the film writing in her two autobiographies that she designed the costumes she even retorted to a reporter in the Los Angeles Times in April of 1974 when asked if she had designed everything herself we want petite and on being accused of copying quote I really didn't care Couture has copied my things for years in addition to countless other costume designers claiming theirs were the original ideas it's all part of the business unfortunately and while I won't say that this is untrue at all because it's not the fashion industry is known for tapping into other designers designs to stay competitive but there is a difference between a major Film Studio taking credit for the work of a small okatorie versus a major old Couture brand knocking off a major Film Studio Design one of the things is a little bit more powerful than the other but this whole charade did not go down well with Audrey Hepburn get it charade Hepburn had found a camaraderie with Uber and with her Newfound star power she forced the studio to give credit to Givenchy now while Givenchy lost the battle his relationship with Audrey Hepburn lasted for nearly 40 years meaning he won the war and with her support she wants she was not just relegated to being a costume designer but a full-blown kachorier whose name still Reigns today with famous designers like John goliano Alexander McQueen Claire white Keller Ricardo tishi Oswald botang and now Matthew Williams having all cut their teeth the brand as for Audrey Hepburn's beef with ef head she was allegedly very upset with how head treated jivoshi and with her Premier actress status now could advocate for Uber gimoshi receiving credit and she did as for the film funny face one of the most popular in the Hepburn lexicon she made sure she when she received credits alongside Edith Head and then he was nominated for an Oscar for the film in 1958. in the long run Givenchy won his name will last for quite some time while Edith heads will eventually Fade Into the background I don't know what to Italia greed isn't a good look especially when it's made up of knockoff Givenchy Sabrina as a film though is one of the more overlooked Audrey Hepburn movies in my opinion I mean many probably couldn't even name it when it comes to Andre Hepburn films they know of but this early classic was the reason that Audrey Hepburn became a fashion icon and While others like funny face and Breakfast at Tiffany's and charade added to her fashion lexicon Sabrina will remain the movie that brought about the Audrey Hepburn and Uber to jivoshi relationship it will also be a scandalous he said she said in fashion history too so that is the end of this video I hope you guys enjoy it if you guys would like me to continue working on these kind of videos you know we worked hard on this one it's something that I enjoy doing we're working on being more fashion history involved you know here in all the mode so please let me know if there are any other movies you guys want me to cover I will see you guys in the next one and TTYL

Channel: HauteLeMode

Views: 117,793

Keywords: sabrina, audrey hepburn, audrey hepburn fashion, audrey hepburn givenchy, audrey hepburn movie, audrey hepburn movies, breakfast at tiffany, breakfast at tiffany's, audrey hepburn breakfast at tiffany, audrey hepburn sabrina, humphrey bogart, edith head, costume, fashion design, haute couture, design, designer, fashion designer, hubert de givenchy, givenchy, givenchy fashion show, balenciaga, fashion history, hautelemode, history, film history, sabrina 1954, fashion review

Id: Jn8SpRZmDC0

Length: 26min 12sec (1572 seconds)

Published: Thu Aug 24 2023