Thermal Runaway | Ender 3 Max | Easy Fix

hey youtube this is print practical today we're going to be talking about my ender 3 max and thermal runaway issues i've been having this printer is awesome it only costs 329 and it has a huge print area of 300 by 300 by 350. it's really cool printer and it's only about three months old but recently i've been having some thermal runaway halts happening during some longer prints which is pretty frustrating i talked to creality support and they walked me through some diagnosing steps which really didn't yield any results but then they assumed what the part was that was needed luckily i didn't have to wait for that i ran to a local micro center and i was able to pick up the part and fix the printer so today i'm going to run you through exactly what they ran me through instead of it taking you 11 days you could possibly do it in like an hour and hopefully you can get your printer back up and running so let's go start taking this apart okay so first things first let's heat up the nozzle and pull the filament out all right next we're going to shut off the printer and we're going to push the bed all the way back so that's going to expose this little screw here we're going to pull that out now we're going to flip the whole printer on its side so we want to clear this space off a little bit and then we can tilt it right on over i'm gonna take the power off all right all right so then we have this screw this screw and this screw to take out two things i want to note that this screw right here is a longer one so remember that when you're putting it back together also there is a fan that's on here that cools the motherboard so just be careful the wires so the first step that creality wanted me to do was catch the the thermal runway on video this was really hard because it happened randomly and it would usually happen after an hour or two i eventually did catch it and it did show that it was something on the hot end side and not on the bed heating unit okay so the first thing that creality support wanted me to measure was the resistance of the nozzle heating tube which i believe that mean the heater cartridge and the hot end and i'll put a diagram at the bottom and show which port that is but they want you to measure the resistance of that and they said it should come out to 14.4 k um this is where i got a little confused because if you look online or on google people say that you know the ideal resistance of a heating cartridge is um anywhere from five to twenty ohms um so i mean i'll probe mine anyway and i sent creality a video of this and they just kind of ignored it but you know it's at 15.9 um so i don't know what that tells you but it didn't tell me anything so the second thing that they wanted us to measure uh was they wanted us to measure the voltage uh going through the heater tube or the heater cartridge um when you're heating the extruder so we're going to turn the printer on and we're going to go to prepare preheat pla and then we'll just do just the extruder and we should be able to probe the same thing and we see 24 volts or 24.1 volts that's exactly what they expected they said that it should be 24 volts so the last measurement that creality wants us to take is the resistance of the thermistor the thermistor is the plug all the way on the outside of the main board i could put a diagram with that that port highlighted and it is a two pin plug i have a set of alligator clip leads for my multimeter and i just connected that to two wires so i can easily probe this plug when you're initially taking this apart if it's your first time creality hot glues all these plugs into the main board so it's a big pain in the butt uh just take an exacto blade and carefully cut the hot glue out so that you can pull the plug out creality says that the expected value is about 100k okay so it's showing 104.6 k at room temperature now i can't say for sure that this is room temperature because it's only been an hour since i shut off the printer completely okay if you got to this point in the video and you have similar results to me when you measure these measurements then i'm just going to tell you now go to micro center go to amazon and buy a three dollar thermosister for an ender three um this will solve your problem or at least did for me and it's a very cheap part so it's worth a try um creality did end up sending me a thermistor and i didn't try it yet um the only difference between this and the one that i bought from micro center is that the micro center part was for a ender 3 pro and it was a little shorter because the wire doesn't have to be as long because the prints the the print dimensions are a lot smaller on that printer so i installed the ender 3 pro thermosister and everything seemed to go back to normal and i've performed multiple over 24 hour prints with no problem so i'm going to show you now just how to quickly install that it is your choice whether you want to try and thread the new thermistor through the wire loom all the way back to the main board i personally just ran it um outside of the wiring loom and yes that probably looks ghetto and bad but if i've only had the printer for three months and this part already went bad chances are it's gonna go bad again and i would just like to have a quick easy swap so let's start replacing this thermistor okay so we're gonna start by removing the hot end cover it's got two small screws here at the top also want to mention that you'll probably have to cut a bunch of zip ties if you're trying to run the wire through the loom i definitely attempted it and it was just too tedious and i didn't feel like caring about it so i just ended up running it separately so the thermistor is a temperature sensor that looks like a tiny little bulb and that actually goes in the side of the hot end right here so when you're replacing the thermistor you take out this phillips head screw and you pull the old thermistor out you push the new thermistor in and then you put the screw down and it clamps on the wire on either side so there's two wires that come off the thermistor and you're going to clamp it between this phillips head screw you just lightly turn in the phillips head screw until it's holding that in place you don't want to squeeze it too hard or it might cause a break in the wire then you're back to square one again so i'm not going to actually do it because this is already installed and this the new one but that's how you get to it you put the new one in you run the wire around the whole loom until you get back to the main board and you plug in the new one all right so thanks for watching i hope this helped somebody this was an easy fix you know you could do it in 15 minutes if you don't want to run the wire all the way through the loom and it's a very cheap fix it's only three dollars and i looked up the bid therm resistor as well and that's only five so either way i would start with this i would just buy one if you're getting thermal runaway and you want to just quickly swap it to see if that fixes it it's only three dollars so thanks for watching subscribe and let me know if you want me to design anything or go over anything on these two printers thanks

Channel: Print Practical

Views: 67,560

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Id: ApbSHEEgRPk

Length: 9min 3sec (543 seconds)

Published: Sat Jul 31 2021