The Ultimate OneFinity CNC Setup - Spoilboard, Cart, Vertical Table - 400

Chase customer Creations is sponsored by bits and bits use the code jbates to save 10 off your next router bit or CNC bit purchase at bitsbits.com this video is probably going to be pretty long so I'll go ahead and put the time stamps on the screen that way for future reference you can jump to a section uh that you want to see if you're watching this on YouTube I'll put those time stamps in the description to act as chapters you can click through the chapters and of course if you're watching anywhere else I'll have those timestamps listed as well this is what I'm calling the ultimate Infinity CNC cart so this particular machine is a Infinity x50 journeyman journeyman CNC machine it is not mine this belongs to a friend of mine as a matter of fact he got it over a year ago and he's when he got it his name is Bill I said bill you gotta let me do a table cart something for this thing because I absolutely love this type of functional engine engineering designing stuff that that works I much more I I prefer to design this type of stuff than design actual Furniture it's just the way my brain works and I'm just really interested in this type of stuff but it doesn't make sense for me to go out and buy a bunch of CNC machines that I don't have to make one specific to each CNC machine or whatever so uh he got this and I saw it as an opportunity to do something cool so thanks Bill for uh letting me letting me have fun making this so there's a lot of stuff to cover but the very first thing that I want to cover is clear intentions right I want to make my intentions Crystal Clear when it comes to this particular design this particular build when I made my workbench video several years ago I I started that video by saying it doesn't matter if you want to use power tools or hand tools it's just basic Construction principles basic con it's a basic design so it doesn't matter which one you can use and then I proceeded to use power tools and a lot of people yelled at me because I'm saying you can use hand tools to make something but I'm not demonstrating that so I want to make my intentions crystal clear with this by stating I didn't use this CNC machine to make the majority of the larger components I used my CNC machine which has the capacity of a full sheet but that being said you absolutely can cut everything on this machine with the use of tiling in vcarve and I'm sure Fusion 360 has something similar the tiling feature where you can utilize the pass-through of the machine to cut a little suction or in this case one third of the sheet tile it one third of the sheet and then tile it for the last third of the sheet so you most definitely can cut every bit of this on this machine but just know that I did not and it was never my intentions to do so my intentions were to make a really really cool feature just feature packed cart um and then present it in such a way that uh you know present it for my audience kind of a thing so uh that's my clear intentions don't yell at me for using another CNC machine to make parts for this you most definitely can cut everything else out on this one of the main reasons why I did it on a full sheet is number one time you can tile on here it's just going to be a little bit a little bit more time consuming and number two the biggest reason why I cut the majority of the pieces on my machine is dust collection bill has the dust collection system for this but he didn't drop it off with the machine and um I also wanted to actually see the bit doing some work while we're actually working here so dust collection is really the major reason why I cut the majority of the stuff on my machine all right so files available I have a downloadable package that is it has a tremendous amount of information in it in the digital files that are available for this machine I have the SketchUp file which includes two designs design one which I included in the SketchUp file because there's no sense in deleting it and I'll tell you why I didn't go with design one the SketchUp file also includes design two which is this one that you'll see right here as well as a layout diagram for all the pieces uh the other digital file that's available is all of the vectors for all the stuff for CNC use or you can simply use the vcar file that I created for cutting everything you could use that file as well also included is a machine file now a machine file is I'm sure other people have called it a machine file but I started calling it a machine file because it's basically a template specific to this particular machine well not this particular machine but specific to what the machine cuts out for the setup maybe that's kind of confusing basically a machine file is a giant template specific to this setup so it'll have everything included in the machine file which includes the spoil board the corner fence the adjustable wide stop blocks knobs and the hold down clamps all the mortise and Tenon joinery specifics that's right mortise and Tenon and box joint joinery so you can't hardly see it from this angle but right over here is a vertical table fully featured really nice setup all of that is in the machine file uh another digital file that was included is the PDF plans now on the PDF plans you will have a shopping list dimensioned drawings for every single part and a 3D assembly guide so that's everything that's included in the digital files available for this so let me put this piece of paper down and actually give you a demonstration of what everything is on this particular machine cart on this cart this design that I came up with is kind of like a I'm wanting to call it like an inside out torsion box ish basically there's two main boxes uh for the design and three major webs which are these face frames okay so on this side we decided to go with with uh trays or drawers I'm calling them trays because they slide through on both directions and there's no drawer slides it's just a tray that slides back and forth so on the top tray here's your bits and whatnot and I'll show you that in detail and then of course just two larger storage trays now they push all the way through to the other side so you can access them from either side um on this side we just went with an empty space for kind of like a flex space so the way I've been using this as I've been completing everything is I've actually been using it for uh component storage right so if you have a bunch of a bunch of smaller pieces like like let's just say this is an off cut for a project well this is not scrap by any means it's just another piece of material that you can use for another project so you can store all your off Cuts or small pieces in here and that's basically how I was working with the open space however it's sized so that we should be able to fit a uh a shop vac in the back side a a smaller shop back not like a huge you know 16 gallon or 20 gallon monster shop vac it'll smaller shop back in the back and then an air compressor in the front that's how Bill's going to use it anyway so you'll probably have a hook somewhere right here for air air compressor nozzles that we can you know have air compressor compressed air at the ready whenever you're working with this uh so that's why we left that side open however with just a little bit of work you could also add some drawer Runners and put drawers over there as well if you wanted to actually no you can't because there's t-nuts on the inside here and they will interfere so scratch that I just thought of that um so that's the front of it now let me spin you around and show you the uh the the control side over there now as you can see I've got one swivel caster and two fixed casters which I'll show you uh why I did that on this side you can see that the the control box is mounted right to the side and you can see how there's an interior cavity that goes all the way through and that's to access the t-nuts that are in the table top not the spoil board get into that later as well uh the couple there's a couple holes for routing uh the wires and whatnot there is holes on the inside over there to route to the controller into the top tray which I'll talk about that's really cool and these two casters are fixed casters I probably already mentioned that but that's this side uh nothing groundbreaking on this side let me spin you around once again and these casters by the way uh this is the second time I've used these particular casters they're they're really really nice as you can see it moves really easy so I went with a a tripod set up for the casters so there was only three casters essentially a tripod what's the benefit of a tripod a benefit of a tripod is stability it'll never Rock if you put forecasters on here well anything in my shop that has four casters or four contact points to the ground it is highly unlikely that it'll sit without rocking because no matter what floor you're on it's never absolutely perfect for the most part anyway uh so by by eliminating one of the swivels and just having one swivel too fixed it's essentially a tripod it'll never Rock now when it's when it's like this I've got feet right here too and I'll show you in just a second when it's like this and there's a bunch of stuff in the drawers it's going to be nearly impossible for this thing to just tilt on its own I'm 180 pounds and if I put all my weight on this corner it's still not tilting over so I don't think that the extra feet are necessary however I put these on here kind of like an insurance policy so that once you find the location that you want you put the feet down and it's really not going to tip on you at all now these casters I really like for various reasons they they operate smoothly and I've had some on one of my other carts here in the shop for quite a while and they're holding up great so I decided to use them on this but they're what I call down down locking casters so you press down to lock it you don't have to get your shoe underneath it and pull up and tear up the top of your shoe you also have another lever for unlocking it that you kick down so down to lock down to unlock I really like those I really like that setup also these these uh feet have a little bit of an angle cut on them and you may see in the video when I install them I'm not sure how I'm going to edit this but you may have seen the video that I had them so that the the taper to cut is on the inside well I switched it so that the taper is on the outside essentially acting like a toe kick giving yourself a little bit more space right here so you're not going to kick it as easily anyway so that's why I twisted those uh and while I'm on a topic of difference in the video versus in the the what you see in the video versus on the on the files this is a prototype right so as I'm making this I'm building off of my plans but as I'm making it I'm seeing stuff that could be better tweaked slightly so there's some stuff that you may see on this particular prototype that is different than the plans and that's on purpose always always always use the plans use the the files for specifics and for confirming dimensions and whatnot always use that because that's going to be the final iteration of the design only use the video what you're seeing now as reference okay so if if you see something in the video and it's not on the plans don't trust a video trust the plans on this side or the right side of the cart is the vertical table and uh it's it's pretty darn awesome it's not a full width table because I have a full width table on my CNC machine 49 inches of vertical table and I did that because I thought that there would be times where picture like a waterfall table you have like a or a computer desk where you want to have that waterfall effect so you have a full width top and a full width side that you want the grain to continuously go through well that same concept maybe could be done with integral dowels on the whole side of the cabinet or side of the desk or whatever you cut integral dowels and then you cut the integral holes on the top and you glue it together like that it's an interesting kind of a look well I I made the full width vertical table on that one to accommodate basically that scenario where you're doing a full width of a panel of some kind and I've never actually used the full width so on a machine like this we talked over what we what he probably would use it for and it's basically mortise and Tenon joints and then um box joints of course you could do dovetails as well but those are probably the most common is mortise and Tenon and box joints and for that we went with 11.5 11 and a half inches of capacity left and right for the width of the material inside the vertical table and about actually I can take a measurement real quick uh two and a half inches of thickness of the pieces that you can put down inside it well that's actually for the cutting capacity of the machine you could put thicker pieces in it but the cutting capacity of the vertical table is two and a half or two and five eighths of an inch by 11 and a half inches and we'll get into the the specifics and show you how this actually works it's really cool I've got some test pieces that were cut on this machine I love joining Rihanna CNC machine it's it's just so much fun before I spin it around I want to show you the back it's again it's a mirror image in the front very basic one note though when I when I talk about putting the the controller inside the top tray and you'll understand what I'll talk about in a little bit just know that the wire is fed into here through the top so that you can't pull this all the way to the back so if you put the controller inside this top tray the tray is only accessed through the front side because the wire is in the way everything else can be slid out however long you need it to and of course there's some extra real estate up here if you want to drill holes and use this as like bolt storage or whatever Hardware storage this is just an empty space that's required because the back side of the spindle can only go the back side of the Gantry can only go so far so extra real estate up here use it however you want next up is the corner stop or the fence whichever you want to call it so that's what these pieces are this is a side fence and a Back Fence where they join up right here is a reference corner so in the machine file if I want to cut something on here I open up the machine file and I draw this rectangle my material size locating or starting off of this exact corner and that way I know exactly where my material is and make all my cuts without ever have to having to change the origin to reference off of the corners so uh these this touch off plate right A lot of these machines have the touch off plates where on one side you can touch off into the middle well then it's got a corner locator that you can click onto the corner of the piece and then you can measure off the sides and based upon what's set in into the uh into the controlling software it'll set your origin to exactly at that particular corner all that's super handy that's super good but it's a waste of time once you have this particular setup with this particular setup and the Machine file you load all your pieces and do all your designs on the machine file which means you never have to change Origins all you have to do is home the machine in the same spot every time once it's homed all of this locating data is baked into the template the machine file so why put it in the back left side oh by the way this little touch off plate I just store it on top of the control box over here I thought about putting it in the drawer I actually had it in the drawer but it was just kind of too many wires kind of in the way it sits just fine right there and doesn't move so why have this fence in the back left corner rather than the front left corner which which is where typically everybody puts it the reason being is is making the easiest stuff to do furthest away from you and the hardest stuff closer to you now none of this is hard but think about this how difficult it is it to put your piece down that's it's kind of silly to say it's super easy you just put it in the corner literally it's all you push it forward and sit in the corner then put your clamps down which is again easy but more difficult than putting this down so put your clamps in the front so you don't have to stretch all the way to the back side to do the difficult stuff it's easy to stretch to the back side to drop this in place it's easy to have all of your clamps right in front of you so it's the same thing I just switched them around so that you're referencing on referencing on the back side basically less stretching to install some pieces uh what else is on my list so um stop blocks instead of hold Downs if you are using a CNC machine like this a desktop CNC machine your the majority of the stuff that you're doing is done with a End Mill and a v-bit that's the majority of everything and the majority of the End Mill cuts are down cuts and of course V bits don't have an upward pull so the whole time there is no upward pull if you're using an up cut bit it's going to want to lift your material and at that point you would want to do some top down work holding but for the majority of things everything cut with a down cut End Mill and with a v-bit having a setup like this is just fine because you don't have the piece wanting to lift that way you just have friction stops in the lateral directions left and right up and down forward and back rather X and Y my goodness X and Y directions just have lateral stops and don't worry about top down holding now if you do have to worry about top down holding in a situation like this you can pop some of these bolts off and use these holes for some clamps over here however as needed these stops these fence pieces are just held down with these bolts they're not actually located with the bolts inside here is quarter inch steel pins which make this very repeatable and easily fixed and replaced and I'll get into all that in just a second so stop blocks instead of hold down clamps are the primary use a quick note on knobs and the hardware first off all of the t-nuts in the table and in these knobs are 5 16 18 thread 516 by 18 thread t-nuts so all of the bolts are 5 16 by 18 bolts and threaded rod so I did not make any of these knobs in this video I've made so many of these knobs over the years I did not want to go through the hassle of just making some more of them for this video however the vectors to make these and the tool paths they are included in the machine file it's nothing nothing specific to this particular machine it's just a generic knob that I've been making for Years also is some hold down knobs hold down clamps as I walk over the other side of my shop real quick this is a hold down clamp utilized with these knobs right and this clamp is just a piece of scrap wood that's got a slot cut in the middle of it and then two rabbits one on either end so that way you can hook over your material not only do you hook over the top of it but you get a physical stop with this corner right here so this right here I didn't cut any in this video but the vectors are included in the machine file I've got so many of these it doesn't make sense to make more now with knobs you can make your own you can buy some that are already manufactured you can make your own clamps or you can buy some that are already manufactured it doesn't matter which one you choose but what I will say is I have used these so much over the past few years on my CNC machine and if you're just you know doing a couple of these no big deal it's no problem whatsoever but picture this scenario you have 30 parts to cut out and each setup for each part has four knobs to lock everything down into place that means four times you have to tighten it down and when it's done four times you have to loosen it up times 30 pieces for that day that's a lot of twisting and finger fatigue at the end of the day your fingers will feel it and I'm speaking from experience there that's painful on your fingers so something that I got or something that I started doing while making this video is not using knobs at all using a 12 volt drill with a socket and just using the bolt uh with the clutch setting on the drill and I will say after doing this for you know the past week or so making this cart and and prototyping this and debugging this using this drill and these bolts is my favorite thing to me I prefer that more so than the knobs because with a drill obviously you're just pressing a trigger there's not much finger fatigue over a whole day of doing that so this is the bolts is probably what I'm going to transition to whenever possible now my my ecosystem my CNC ecosystem is set up for this particular scenario right here so it's gonna be difficult for me to switch over to this and also I have t-track on my table we didn't want to do t-trap t-track on this one because of the cost it's way cheaper way cheaper to do the t-nuts and it's not that big of a deal if you put the t-nuts in the cart and not on the spoil board I'll get into that later uh so there's a quick word on knobs and I and the fact that I prefer bolts rather than tightening with an actual hand knob and if you do want to make a bunch of knobs to be honest with you it's it's it's a lot easier to not make these knobs I've gotten to the point where I don't care if I'm using a knob or not it doesn't look any the only difference is it looks it functions the exact same way as a square so just cut a square piece drill a hole in the middle pop a carriage bolt in here that's what this is a 5 16 18 Carriage Bolt the threads go all the way through it so I drilled a quarter inch hole and then I just manually threaded this through that hole once it's stuck out about an inch on this side I put two Jam nuts on here and then used a wrench to drive it all the way through this direction burying the head inside here because on a carriage bolt right below the head is a square shank and that square shank needs to go into this there's no adhesive whatsoever no glue it just locks into place and this is probably what I'm going to use for knobs going forward if I ever ever need to make a bunch more knobs I'm just making rectangles they do the exact same thing and while it's not as pretty to see as something like this it's way easier to do and as far as my material being held down I don't care about pretty I care about easy I want to get to work you know what I'm saying so there's a quick note on some knobs and work holding this is the vice jaw I guess you could say for the vertical table and I'm going to take it off and show you the inside in just a second but you'll notice over here over here in the top left the wires for the motors here there's a clip on the front side of this axis there's the wires that go through here so we have to have access for this now this was a an afterthought same with the holes for the wires that was an afterthought too so this is just a basic Notch it'll all be refined in the final vectors also this is the more refined version of the vice jaw when I when I made when I installed this which you'll probably see later on in the video I used three independent Vice Jaws there was a bigger one up top and I only had Ash on hand that would fit that piece and then these two bottom pieces were made out of Walnut now it was hardwood I put cork on the other side it would function just fine but I couldn't get over the fact that it was two different species of wood that just looked Goofy on here so I said all right there's got to be a better design paused on that and then came up with this this piece of MDF to match the rest of it now there's two pieces of MDF and on the inside of this is some of that uh I think it's Andy Klein cork rubber it's the best grippy stuff that I've found that a lot of people say to tell you the exact same thing for the inside of Vice Jaws it works really really well uh so there's that let me take these knobs off and show you how this is assembled so when I when I mounted these bolts uh I did all this by hand just lining stuff up putting bolts in there the holes for the t-nuts that are inside the cabinet will be included in the vectors so you don't have to drill any of this by hand now you have slots instead of holes for these bolts that way the device can rack a little bit as needed and I allow that because you always reference off of the left side in this setup here and when anytime you have a two screw style Vise you don't always have to operate both screws what you can do is put your material to the left side and then over tighten this side just slightly let's just say you're using three quarters of an inch material or your material is three quarters of an inch thick you would want to tighten this side down so that only 5 8 of an inch is between the Vise and then the the fixed side over there at that point this side's already too far you can just loosen this side put your piece down and then operate off of that side only hopefully that makes sense you don't have to operate both sides every single time but that's why there's slots instead of holes it'll allow you to articulate or move device like that so I take this off first off you can see that this is two layers of MDF the center section's thicker than the outside section oh this slot right here this slot is because uh this piece right here is actually a an alignment fence when you put your material in you obviously align it with the back of the the cabinet right there that's the fixed side of the Vise but this side is where we're going to align all of our pieces so this is nice and vertical and this is your alignment Corner that's why we have to have two layers right here because if we just clamp down to this or you can't do anything less than three quarters of an inch in that case with two layers this side will take up the thickness of this piece right over here oh the the slot so when you put this back into place remember that that fence over there exists to slide your material all the way to that side that's why I put this slot in here so that way when you put your material in you can use your fingers to push it up against that side right there so you know that you're properly registered every time you go to make your cut here's what it looks like operating the spice from the top so anytime you take pieces out of the Vise utilizing one side not both always Wiggle It Forward and it'll it'll unlock it or release it so what I want to do first is I'm going to set the right side so that we are touching all right so the right side is holding it in place let me back it off so I can get the piece out and then I'm going to advance it just a little bit more that was about two turns this physically cannot go down in there anymore because that's too tight and that's what I want now I can work off of this left hand side only so let me hold it in place I'll use my my other hand over here inside this slot to push it up against the fence over here now I don't have one of those three two one setup blocks I should get one but I've always relied on this little one inch block and I align the heights with the top of the spoil board one inch like that and then I can tighten down this side and there we go depending on how long this piece is you basically can operate from just using the center screws only I'll use the centers to get it close to get it snug and then the rest of them to just kind of lock it into place right so you can see if you look very closely I'm not sure how much it's going to show up on camera but as of right now this Vise is contacting quite a bit on this corner there's actually a super tiny Gap right there so that's touching right here because this is off on an angle due to this screw being Advanced further all you have to do is just crank it down just a little bit and that's where the grippy material comes into play it's going to make up that difference and now I mean with three knobs down here it's super easy to tighten it down with just a little bit of pressure and that is that's held in there really really well this is not going anywhere very easy to operate this and again if you're batching out a bunch of parts don't fool with the second screw simply back these off more than what's necessary and then wiggle the piece forward to pull the jaw forward and then your pieces can come in and out very easily CNC machines are controlled in various different ways mycnc machine is controlled via Mach 4 and with the direct connection to the CNC machine itself I don't have to transfer files this one doesn't directly connect well it probably can but in this case it's not directly connected to a laptop the files are sent over via a USB flash drive and then you use this touch screen as a keyboard mouse computer setup to navigate and move stuff around to select your files to manually jog manual data input I will say that when I first saw onefinity come onto this the scene they had this touch screen and I thought that's really clever I like that that's pretty darn cool in reality actually using this I hate it I cannot stand the touch screen functionality I cannot stand this little screen with a touch screen bad eyes you know goofy fingers sloppy fingers I don't like operating this via a touch screen now you can obviously plug in a white a mouse and a keyboard and uh run the signal to a monitor of any kind whatever in this case it is touch screen right here and then a Xbox controller an Xbox controller so when when we were initially moving stuff around and working with this cart we had the controller in one of these little cubby areas on this side over here and then you accidentally knock it down and then it falls and bumps on the floor and jogs the Machine accidentally just a little bit okay that was kind of crazy or then it's on the floor you don't realize it's on the floor and then I kicked it once that's not fun or you're like where did I where did I put the controller because you put it in a different spot anyway if you can get something that's more consistent it's just going to be one less thing to worry about so the consistency that that I'm adding to this is putting the controller inside the tray inside this drawer and what I've found is I have to sit down any way to use this because this touch screen standing up with this thing down here and trying to No it's it's really annoying just get a little rolling stool and then you can operate it at a more easy eye level so what I found is I put the controller in this tray for just a little bit and I thought wow that's that's actually really convenient you're just using it basically like a keyboard where you can jog the machine uh without ever having to pick up the controller which means consistency it is always in the same spot every time you always know exactly where it's at without having to go look for it and it's always out of the way not gonna get accidentally bumped and moved all over the place so for that reason I thought wow that's that's a pretty neat idea to put the controller inside here and next to your bits you always have to not always but you know most often manually jog the machine to the front when you're changing bits anyway so it kind of makes sense to put it here um so with that being said let me bring you in closer and I'll show you what we have here which is bit tray number one which will be in the machine file and then I'll install bit tray number two which I think is a better fit for what I want to accomplish right here which is again in the machine file bit tray design number one so on this side you can clearly see a just a ridiculous amount of holes way more holes than what you would need uh four quarter inch shank bits now I sized the drawer height this tray height based upon the the vast majority of all of my quarter inch shank bits if it's a quarter inch shank with a quarter inch cutting diameter or less I think two and three quarters of an inch is the cut off nothing's really going to be longer than two and three quarters of an inch if it is longer than two and three quarters of an inch this bit right here that's where these slots come into play it's cut with a quarter inch ball nose I'm sorry half inch ball nose at a quarter inch depth and what that allows is the the entire bit is below the surface so nothing can slide across here and scratch up the cutting edges um also it should not interfere with this controller wire any yes this controller wire is kind of in the way which we somewhat addressed that in version number two and also because this is you know a half inch wide you can get your finger in here to get the side of the bit to pull them out so there's that there's a pocket right here for the controller this pocket ended up being just a little bit too big not the end of the world and then there's a big pocket over here for some various other stuff other things like the uh the wrench calipers and some and some other stuff a generic pocket like that works but I don't like it I don't like it because I don't want this Precision Tool to be rattling around and stuff whacking into it and I don't want I just don't want stuff to just rattle around for not for whatever reason also bits and bits provided some bits for Mr Bill so he gets a sticker as well uh so there's that let me let me take all of this out and put version two in because version two is much better than this one and what I would imagine the majority of people will actually cut this is bit trade number two so right off the bat this lower left corner is actually a complete cut out there's no pocket here it's just a complete cutout and that is for the remote control it fits or the controller it fits in there much better and this wire can now be pushed off to the side if you wanted to you could put a couple steel pins in these quarter inch holes or uh what I do is is all of my router bits I keep the broken ones because that quarter inch shank is sometimes handy for for referencing purposes uh you could use this at this row over here this column over here for your broken router bits and it'll keep the wire over there now once the wire is over there as this is operated the wire is always out of the way and this is in a much more fixed location it's not going to Rattle out of the way so I think the controller here is an awesome move this slot right here is just a long slot for the collet wrench this is not his collet wrench this is just a Harbor Freight wrench that I have that fits the collet so it'll fit in here mine's got an angle right here so it doesn't fit in but that's why that's why this is here we'll slide this off like that that's for the wrench uh this cutout right here is a nice precise cut out that I came up with a few years ago on my panto router cart for the uh dial indicator or the calipers rather the calipers if you're not using a set of calipers for going to three digits with Imperial numbers so 0.250 for a quarter of an inch or for millimeters or whatever I encourage you to start using it this is one of the most handy tools for use around the CNC machine well and the panto router for that matter um but that's where I got this this already pre-made Vector I've already got so I didn't have to measure that was really cool it's a nice little pocket for that to sit in this doesn't really wiggle around it's always in the same spot and you have a relief cut right here to pull this out so that's pretty cool this is just generic storage for whatever that doesn't fit so we'll throw that over here um of course store whatever you want wherever you want but you have much more storage with all of that now you have two different bit locations on this one and what I what you will obviously know is you only use a couple bits over and over again you don't need a tremendous amount of holes so the most commonly used bits can live their life up here in the front and the stuff that you don't use a lot like something like this this spoil board flattening bit Astro coated from bits and bits by the way this spoil board flattening bait can just live its life in the back out of the way no big deal again you got some long bits that can't reach or they can't fit in here because they're too high too high you can set them in these These are the exact same slots as I had in the last one except they're a lot longer now I didn't really worry about putting stops in here to stop one bit from whacking into the next one if you have a bunch because the only motion this drawer is going to see is front to back it's never going to want to do that unless you you know Park in your garage and that's part and this is in your garage and you hit it with your truck or something silly but then you have more problems than just bits breaking uh so there you go most commonly used stuff up front extra storage right here extra storage right here this controller is nice and tucked away as it should be it's a dedicated spot for your collet wrench some extra space for whatever oh high contrast rulers I'm getting old these are amazing we're in the SketchUp design file and if I unhide everything and zoom out you'll see that we were looking at design number one but there's a lot of stuff in here way more than what's necessary but I don't like the delete stuff I just like to leave it there for future reference for whatever reason so we have design number one the layout for design number one design number two the layout for design number two the CNC layout for design number two and then these are actually just Pages for my reference these rectangles are sized to the same ratio as a sheet of paper and this just gives me a good visual representation of where I want to lay out on the plans when I actually make the plans and put dimensions on everything so disregard these rectangles they're on their own layer or their own tag called plan Pages you can turn those off if you want these CNC files they are on S1 s2s3 S4 S5 tag those are just sheet numbers uh just handy reference for me and of course let's get back to design number one so I'm going to click on the D1 overview scene I've got a bunch of scenes you can walk through if you want uh but this is design number one not a lot not crazy different than what I ended up going with but it's a it's kind of like a completely different construction so this is just basic frameless cabinet construction utilizing a torsion box base for stability I initially had the torsion box up on top I wanted to put a torsion box because the benefits of a torsion box is is great flatness and stability without without a lot of mass but it interfered with some t-nuts and so I moved it to the bottom and then realized hey it's actually better on the bottom anyway because everything's referenced off of it so you get the same benefit of the flatness but if it's on the bottom then you have a much lower center of gravity so I like that I like that a lot I did go with the tripod design from the very beginning so three casters from the very beginning I knew that was something I wanted to incorporate I knew I wanted to do some feet of some kind on the corners to know an insurance policy to stop it from tilting in this iteration or this design they're on the exterior of the car art kind of kinda in the way sticking out a little bit I didn't like the execution of this and again the angle is wrong the angle needs to be the other direction so that when you're in the front this acts kind of like a a recess like a toe kick this could probably be trimmed up quite a bit to that surface but I figured just add a little bit of a shelf there for dust purposes probably a waste of material the vertical table was in the back right and I'm sorry the the right side of this side rather than the left side of this side because I don't know why I started over there to be honest with you but it is a bunch of t-nuts and that's just that's just way overkill for something as simple as a vertical table just make a vice of a vice jaw as I did in the final design uh what else this is storage I think I said that these drawers are in fact drawers they're not all the way through so they just come out a little bit just a regular drawer and that's because this design I had an air compressor back here so our thinking was well you you drill a hole right there drill a hole right there and you feed the the air hose all the way through and now you have air hose in the front air air compressed air in the front and you probably just put a hook right there and hang it on the inside face right there you know you have air compressed air compressed air getting Tongue Tied uh to blow stuff off uh and then also this other cavity right here was for a shop vac put shop back in the back so you can just you know do your hose management or whatever for the dust collection on the router and the thinking was to put these interior dividers uh in place to kind of block the direct line of sight you're still going to hear these obviously it's not soundproofing but it should you know muffle the sound a little bit bring the sound down just a little bit uh everything else is is pretty much the way I initially had it oh uh the way I have it in design number two one other reason why I did not want the vertical table right there is because if you want to for whatever reason um take all this stuff off and then use the maximum capacity of the spoil board I wanted the entire material to be supported with the spoil board on the corners anyway I wanted the corners to be solid so I don't like that we're getting rid of the corner of the school board there didn't quite like that again if you want to build this though all of the information is right there in layout laid out for you so you can cut it and build it without a CNC machine using table saw and circular saw only all that good stuff let's jump over to design number two and we'll talk about the slight changes uh mainly wire management hole placement so on the Prototype of my shop I have the how the holes on the top surface and Bill let Bill preferred him on the top so that's that's where we put them and I don't personally I want to see them in the front because when this Dust Boot and spindle come all the way to this corner the touch screen which I also don't really like in this application the wires for it are kind of in the way they're not actually in the way but they can be in the way so putting them down here will just solve that but Bill prefers the the clean look of the front and put the wires on the top so you have the option do whatever whichever one you want another hole that's as different is this hole right here is included in the vectors I drilled this by hand because there's a wire that comes out here and then feeds into the x-axis up here that's included in the vectors this hole is included in the vectors as well this is the the wire hole for the wired controller and it dawned on me that most of you probably don't have a wired controller he actually has Bill actually has a wireless controller that was giving me some fits and I was giving him some fits so I said forget about it I'll just give you one of my Xbox controllers and be done with it so we put a wired Xbox controller in here and I prefer the wired controller I I've gotten to where I just prefer wired connections anyway with computers because uh with cnc's anyway because I've had several situations where I'm using a wireless keyboard and I'll press a button it sends that signal but it doesn't send the fact that I let go and it keeps going in that direction so I don't really trust Wireless personally anymore so that holds right there for getting the wire for the getting the wired controller in the tray what else some other holes that are in the file that I didn't deal with are every hole on is every hole on this panel so the holes for the feet are in place like they should be in the vectors and the holes for the threaded rod and t-nuts to go through the side panel aren't here one thing that I did include is matching holes right here so if I turn on this tag or this layer threaded rod I just extended some cylinders to to give myself a visual representation of where these threaded rods will actually interact with or on this other panel and I added these these four holes right here they're not necessary but if you're building this but when you go to build this I would suggest putting some t-nuts in here just in case maybe on the inside face I don't know just in case because you never know maybe down the road you'll come up with some idea where you can connect to these two whole locations and have something else something extra right here you never know so adding those two or those four holes is it doesn't hurt anything and it adds some future proofing now down here these two pieces of threaded Rod I saw no need to add the holes into this face over here so if I turn off the thread Rod tag you'll see that there's no holes there uh I think that's I think that's the only major changes from when I built it oh I also added let's start hiding some stuff actually let's just double click to edit this part press y to only select it I also added some more tabs on the top here to locate this panel inside the frames and that'll make sense when you start assembling uh that's that's basically the design so let's oh oh the layout so one thing that I always do let's go to the layout right here or just press U to unhide it what I always do is once my design is done or like 95 done with the majority of it's done and I'm wanting to start figuring out how much material I need I copy everything and for move control brings up copy and then I disassemble the copy into a layout like this and what that does if I just go to the layout tab so we can see it all it allows me to Nest things the way I want to Nest to them I have not found a nesting software that I really really like or a nesting Plug-In or a nesting extension even the V carve nesting I imported all this stuff into vcarve and nested it no matter what settings I chose no matter what angle to to twist it everything that I tried this was vcarve was saying this takes six sheets and I'm proving to you right here that it takes five so that's one of the reasons why I don't really rely on those nesting soft unless it's just a bunch of really goofy complicated weird Parts yeah then we'll do some nesting some Auto nesting otherwise I'm just going to make it myself now what I did here is I for the first time actually moved everything a quarter of an inch away and that was a mistake I thought that would be good because I'm using a quarter inch bit and hey you just make you just make it uh the width of the bit and then put a tab in between both of these pieces when they're being cut on the CNC and the tab kind of locks everything together well using 250.250 for the the spacing here was wrong because when I imported this into a vcarve uh that quarter inch wasn't enough in some situations I don't know why it just wouldn't work and it would not make a tool path in between some of them and it would and others and it it was just being weird so if you do this where you're moving stuff around if you're using a quarter inch bit use .26 or something like that just make it a little bit bigger uh the drawer bottoms so these green rectangles are the drawer bottoms and they are basically we're basically utilizing the waste of these frames now when I designed this particular setup here I went back and forth on the interior space of these because I eventually figured out that hey this is the almost perfect size for the drawer bottoms right so then I tweaked it to where that it would actually work two of these make up one of the drawer bottoms if I go to this scene up here you can see the drawer and a line in between because that's two different components two different drawer bottoms doesn't matter if you make this bottom out of one piece or two pieces it doesn't matter it's going to function the same put a put a Biscuit in between to keep these aligned it doesn't matter don't put a biscuit it doesn't matter that's the idea for the drawer bottoms now in the video I'm not exactly sure if I'm going to show it or not or how I'm going to edit it but I goofed up and I designed all this with a quarter inch bit in mind but at the last minute I decided hey just use a 3 8 of an inch bit you can cut faster with it so I changed my tool pass for 3 8 forgot about this and then my waist material was too small so I ended up having to use my extra sheet for the drawer bottoms making them a full length piece so so there's that also most of this is just rectangles you can take this this this this this this this this um this piece all of these basic rectangles and get rid of them get rid of them on the CNC machine and then just compact this down to where uh you don't have to cut as much on the machine and then just use use uh a table saw to make these rectangles table saw miter saw circular saw that's really all you need for all these basic shapes or if you got the capacity just run them all the way through or if you're going to be tiling everything anyway just just leave them on there uh so that's the layout once I have the layout done oh one thing two I always lay out on a sheet of plywood 48 by 96 inches this is MDF which gives me another inch I have another layer over here MDF is 49 by 97 but I purposefully like to use just a sheet of plywood Dimension 48 by 96 as my rectangles because on my machine I have to use a screw on each corner to hold the sheet down and I know if I have a half inch all the way around I'm safe for the most part uh for example this piece right here I ended up not cutting on the CNC machine because of the corners uh but that being said I shifted some stuff around a little bit to gain better access to the corners and that's specific to my workflow cutting stuff out so you can see that then once I'm satisfied with all of this I moved it over to here and exploded everything so that I could delete the thickness this is this is just two Dimensions there's no thickness here and what that allows me to do is group these what were exploded geometry into a single component and that's where I have S1 S2 S3 and all that and that's what I import into vcarve for the actual tool path creation uh I think I mentioned this that's what I use for my Dimensions don't even worry about that extra stuff over there so now let's talk about the assembly we can jump into assembly the drawer construction is obviously very basic all I used was glue and Brad Nails that's it feel free to add screws I don't think it's necessary in this application I've built several several utilitarian boxes drawers and Trays like this which is glue and Brad nails and mbf they all work just fine I did not want to add screws because MDF has a tendency to split when you screw into the side of the MDF so I did not add screws once the drawers are done just set them aside and we can start on the drawer Runners these are mortise and tenoned into the side pieces and on this application this particular area I used glue and Brad Nails Only again no screws you'll find that I didn't use hardly any screws on this until I got to the top adding the the top to the the frames and the casters the CNC and then the casters that they kind of really lock the the envelope of the structure together and then everything on the inside is is basically held in place with again a bunch of brad nails but there's mechanical connections here so everything kind of clicks together and the brad nails just kind of hold it together so you don't have to use glue and screw use on everything is what I'm getting at now the interior box sides can be added to the frame and I I've probably said it already I added the tops to these interior boxes way too early they should be the very last pieces to be added don't add them right now like I did when doing the overall general assembly of this where you were adding the interior box pieces to the frames go easy with the nails don't worry about screws and all the stuff just just go easy with the Fasteners because you don't want to accidentally lock these pieces in out of square so once you get to the point where the top is being installed the top actually fits down on top of of the frame pieces with two tabs per frame piece and a pocket two matching pockets on the bottom side of the top panel and if every once everything kind of clicks down into place it the top will square of the base at that point you can just go crazy with Brad nails and just put a bunch of Fasteners in there do whatever you want because the top is what will Square the entire structure for the most part on the top wait until the Caster blocks are installed to really go crazy with securing the bottom side of everything now for the top supports these just slide into place there's no right or wrong time when to put them in they're just friction fit to sit in place the only purpose of these pieces is to prevent the top from sagging Against Gravity there is nothing to be gained by fastening these or securing these into place there's nothing to be gained by securing them so don't secure them just slide them in place if you ever have to remove them for whatever reason for better access for something you can pull them back out now we very very very carefully flip this thing over to install the casters and for the the back to two solid casters I drill holes in the MDF piece first and then attached the casters to it and then glued nailed and screwed that MDF piece to the bottom side of the cart that locks everything together now one of the reasons why I said don't go crazy with a bunch of screws or anything or nails or don't waste your time with glue on the interior of of this structure the main box pieces is because when the CNC is in place on top that's going to really lock the frames together and this long piece connecting all three frames together for the casters that is glued nailed and screwed into place so that really locks the structure together as well next up we flip it over very very very carefully hopefully you have someone to help you do that but flip it over and we can install the the insurance policy feet I installed them once again backwards when I first did it install them so that the angle angles in to the center top down to the center of the cart that way on the front side of the car it kind of gives you a little bit of a you know like a toe kick room finally the CNC machine can be added to the actual top of the cards now you'll have to go through the squaring process to make sure everything is nice and square but you should also be able to pretty much follow the perimeter of the top panel it is cut precisely Square so we'll just leave it at that I secured this machine by adding one bolt into the interior corner of each one of the feet just the through bolt secured it with a washer a lock washer and a hex nut and then one once one bolt was in each corner I used screws into the remaining three holes now just like adding the Caster block down below the long Caster block down below to lock the frames together when you put screws in the perimeter of the CNC mounts that's going to lock the CNC to the table top to the frames down below so that really locks the envelope of the structure and then everything else like I said is and the inside is is kind of really located and held into place by by geometry and then kind of tacked into place after that with Brad nails so you don't have to go crazy with a bunch of screws on the interior this is where the machine file starts and it starts by locating the spoil board so you can see these these little Corners that I have sitting on the top of this cart install a v-bit and scratch the corners that are located in the machine file now these Corners aren't the 100 percent exact capacity of the machine if you jog the machine positive X positive y to the maximum it's something like 32 and quarter inch by 48 and a quarter inch something like that I just wanted to keep it as simple as possible get it to a whole number and put it as 32 and 48 and be done with it so that's the location of these these little Corners scratch those into the table top or the carts top with a v-bit and the only purpose of those is to locate the spoil board when we install it after cutting the the locating Corners we can use a longer reach End Mill I believe this is three inches in total length a standard End Mill that has like a one inch length of cut isn't long enough to get down through the table top here so I had to use a longer bit and kind of extend it a little bit out of the collet more so than what I normally would but it everything was worked out just fine now we can cut all the holes for the t-nuts and for the antennas to be installed it would be handy if you could just whack them with a hammer but whacking them upside down with a hammer is not the easiest thing so I had bill on the bottom side pushing t-nuts in place and then I used this setup on top a bolt with a fender washer some nuts to take up some space and another Fender washer uh to put through the holes and pull the t-nuts up into the top of the cart top and it took about 10-15 minutes it's just boring and repetition it's not the end of the world just get it done once and be happy that you don't have to do that again the cool thing about putting the t-nuts in the top of the cart versus the bottom side of the spoil board is you don't have to worry about them clogging up if there's no hole that's all the way through it through the table top and you also don't have to worry about replacing them every time you change the spoolboard out uh that's that's quite annoying so in this case if you have to replace them you just pop one out and replace it for you know damaged threads or whatnot now the spoil board can be added so I just zigzagged a little bit of glue in between each one of the holes set the spoil board in place put a heavy sandbag right in the middle for some weight and then on each one of the corners I used a drywall screw and a washer from below the holes that we just cut to screw through the spoil board and lock it in place and hold it down I let that sit overnight so the glue could fully cure and then the next day we came back and I drilled the same holes or used that same program to cut all of the t-nut holes as well as some indexing pin holes into the spoil board once that is done oh I cried a little bit on the inside because I had to flatten the spoil board with the uh the surfacing bit which this thing doesn't have dust collection MDF dust is and we have dust is brutal and I started out holding my my dust collector hose close to it to kind of catch it as it's being cut but man that was brutal I just I just turned the exhaust fan on the shop walked away and and and pouted at the mess that it was about to create because it I knew it was gonna be I knew it was gonna be horrible once the spoil board is surfaced uh we can work on the fence now for the fence I'm just going to show this to you in SketchUp because the the way I did it was over unnecessarily over overly complicated so basically these rectangle pieces for the fence use some double stick tape or something to hold them down in place on the far left side of the spoil board because the holes line up perfectly for that as well as the one that goes along the back so put this down select only this geometry from the machine file to cut the t-nut holes as well as the indexing pin locations and then cut two pieces cut one take it off put another one on cut that one because these two like I said are identical and they just click down into place then on the machine file you can trim these faces up so that you have a perfect perfect corner to work from again um well actually I think I did actually record this yeah the next step is to make some of these adjustable stop blocks and we have a a working machine file we can actually use the machine file to cut these slots out and this is the first point where you realize how this machine file works and how super handy it is to be able to locate stuff in a corner every single time and work off of the machine file for everything that you create it is super super handy the final step on the spoil board work is to flush trim the spoil board with the top cutout down below for the vertical table and you will have to Chisel at the interior corner of the vertical table area so that piece is reference off of that exact Corner next we can add the vertical table left fence now this particular piece is only there to make sure the material you put into the vertical table remains perfectly perpendicular to the spoil board surface so parallel with z-axis that's the only point to this it's going to be further held in place every single time you clamp something down inside this so don't go crazy with glue and screws just set it in place and use a bunch of brad nails all you have to do is lock its position now you can build the movable Vice part of the vertical table just add the two pieces together referencing off of that Center slot where your fingers go to push the material up against the left fence and put some you know some cork or some some cork rubber on the inside for extra grip throw the threaded Rod into the holes and put the nuts in place and you're ready to go ready to use it oh before we before you add the the knobs I will recommend adding a flat washer regular washer flat washer in between the knob and the movable side of the Vise and that is just to allow allow a little bit of spacing between the knob and the the Vise Jaw because if you don't do that and the vices racked just slightly left and right then the the wings I guess you could say the outermost point of the knobs will rub on the front face of the Vise you don't want that add those wash stack it out just a little bit and you won't have any problems with interfering with the knobs moving when the Vise is racked finally the very last step is to add these top pieces to the interior boxes again I added these super early in the build and had to remove them not once but twice actually because they were in the way so these are the very last things to add install them with screws of course pre-drill so you don't split the frames but add them with with screws so you can easily remove them if you have to work on or replace some of the t-nuts that are located above them this is the machine file template now it's a template so you can't accidentally overwrite this by making some changes and saving it you'll have to save it as a new template but anytime you open up a template you'll have a job setup screen that you have to confirm before you start so let's just press OK and it's going to say you have got some errors with all these tool paths so don't even worry about that because every one of these tool paths is independent of one another so right off the bat you'll notice that my tool paths are on the left hand side I by default they're on the right I don't think it makes any sense whatsoever to have them on the right as well as the windows toolbar I put it up at the top because all of your menus are top left why not have all of your Mouse stuff top left it just makes that sense it just makes sense for me so that's why my tool paths are over here now I want you to notice the layers Tab and the tool paths area for all of these layers as we go through building this there's a there's correlating tool paths already made for this so let's just say you open this up to do a a basic job you're going to do your normal a normal v-carve sign you don't need all of this so once you open up the tempo the first thing I want you to do is right click delete delete all delete all of these tool paths if you don't need them opening up the template file I think this kind of slows stuff down the more crap you have in here um so anyway I'm going to show you how we built this this how I built this this machine file first thing let me turn off all of the layers and turn on the spoil board Corner locations and the tool path that goes with it so this is just a very basic corner it's two inch lines to form Corners all the way around and this is what we used to establish the location of the spoil board very very basic let's turn that tool path off turn that off turn on the next one which was t-nut centers so when I designed all this I was getting kind of confused between the the quarter inch pin holes and then the t-nuts so this was a cross every one of these was a cross and I deleted the top leg of the Cross to turn it into a t very simple but that intersection gives me the center point for the t-nuts and that still allows me to use an X for the quarter inch pins which I'll show you in just a second actually uh we'll go ahead and turn those on so there's some quarter inch pins on a different layer as well they're red as well and they're they're X's instead of crosses right so what I used this these these uh Tina centers for is the t-nut shank holes all of these holes are for the t-nuts that's if I'm not mistaken a 3 8 of an inch diameter hole is perfect for a 5 16 18 t-nut I believe that's the case but that's all of the geometry needed again minus this area over here for the vertical table there's no sense of putting us there obviously so that's all of the geometry and we have the the tool path for the t-nut shank holes and the quarter inch panels one quick note about the way I name my tool paths I name my tool paths primarily there's a couple times where I didn't do it like this drill but primarily I put em250 for an End Mill that's quarter of an inch in diameter sometimes I'll put bn500 that's a ball nose half of an inch bit that's how I name them just so I know right off the bat what bit is used for these uh so so there's that there's the tool path and the drill tool path for all of the spoil board geometry ready to go let's turn those tool paths off and collapse that then we have a single spoil board flattened tool path and this is just set up ready to go for the bit that I used you can use this if you want but there's an offset on here so it extends to complete the entire tool path I'm sorry the entire spoil board rather than just going inside of a circle or inside of a vector so there's that and now we have the spoil board Corner fence tool paths so the corner fence cleanup is right here so the initial rectangles are three inches in width and they reference off of the perimeter of the spoil board so once you secure these rectangles they're going to be out to right there that's how big they are then we're going to use these uh these tool paths to clean them up I'm getting ahead of myself here actually we have to create these first right so the first thing we do is put the rectangle on there then we use uh these two tool paths to actually cut the holes in this rectangle you do that twice one for right here and then one for up here then you stick them into place and then we use these Blue Line vectors to clean them up establishing this interior corner so what that allows you to do is have a corner to reference off of every time you want to put a rectangle down here to do your actual jobs now there's also an extra line right here V60 mortise reference that means I used a 60 degree V bit and made this particular line right here for mortising and I'll show you why that's handy in just a little bit but just keep that in mind also this particular uh Vector right here this blue Vector I did end up copying it to a layer called calibrated locations so once we have this Corner established that is a calibrated location once we have this straight line established that is a calibrated location and then once we figure out the vertical table that's a calibrated location as well so let me turn off all of this extra stuff that we don't need and I will turn on calibrated location so now we have a corner up here this is the corner that the fence is is pointing to or is creating so if I if I open up this and I I have a 12 inch by 12 inch rectangle of piece of plywood that I want to put on the machine and cut something out of it what I would do is first go to my drawing rectangle reference off at the top left and I'll type in uh 12 inch I think that's what I said 12 inch by 12 inch and I'll just click this corner and boom there's my rectangle there's where my job is that's where I design all of my cuts that's where this machine file really comes in handy you don't have to locate anything you don't have to use the corner offset or the corner origin touch plate you simply reference off of this established Corner that this machine file created when we uh ran when we ran this the stop block cleanup so this that's one of the main reasons why this machine file is super handy there's no more measuring offsets and and all that good stuff uh for the pieces that are located on the machine after the corner fence let's go back to our layers what else do we have uh large adjustable stop blocks let me go ahead and delete this oh also by the way uh all of these layers you can click the little light bulb to see it you can also see that there's a lock icon on some of these you can right click and say lock or unlock when they are locked you cannot select them so I can't accidentally delete this I cannot accidentally move it there's nothing I can do to it to change it but when it's locked you can still reference off of it so if you wanted to draw a line from this midpoint you still get your snaps like the midpoint snap you can still snap to it and of course I just showed you the rectangle off of that corner so locking layers is Handy and something I do all the time lock the layers you don't want to mess up next up is the large adjustable stop blocks these are the stop blocks that I cut and created in the um in the video it's just a basic rectangle and these are slots cut for a uh for for bolts to go through so there's the tool path to get those done ready to go all you have to do is throw a piece of material on that is these Dimensions I included those as well for a quick reference and these are honestly just arbitrary it's just it's just the pieces that I had you know you can make them any size you want uh so there's the adjustable stop blocks we'll turn off the large adjustable stop block here and now we have hold down clamps and some other stuff that I can't read hold down clamps and knobs so this is a vector that I've created in my personal machine file for my machine and of course we have all of the tool paths as well so this will create those wooden knobs that I showed you earlier in the video and they are all the tool paths are set up for a recessed counter board hole a counter board hole for the t-nut there's tabs already built into here and then there's slots right here for the actual hold down clamps themselves now what I recommend doing is if you have a piece of scrap wood seven and a half inches by 20 inches just find some stuff that fits these dimensions and just knock out a couple of these right these are all the tool paths for all of this to cut all that out and then use the table saw or a band saw to separate these there's no sense in wasting a lot of material for the width of a router bit just chop this off chop chop chop and then cut the rabbet on the inside and there you go you got all of your hold down so those are sitting there ready to go and if you accidentally mess them up well there's a copy of the vector and a little bit of note to go or a little note to go with it all of that is ready to go it is on the hold down clamps and what did I say hold on clamps and knobs layer and you can turn it off and not mess with it it's always there ready to go that's pretty cool next up is bit tray number one obviously uh I didn't like it so I did not make any I guess I did I did make the the tool pass I did include them here so if you want bit tray number one here's the the vectors and the tool paths ready to go uh of course every time you open one of these up there's things that you have to change first before you calibrate one of these you have to make sure that your material setup is the way you want it you want to make sure that your material surface or machine bed is selected based upon how you want to cut you have to make sure the start and stop position is set up based upon how you want to navigate the spindle and you have to make sure the thickness is set up based upon the material that you are actually cutting out of so basically if you're doing any one of these change all of this first and any change you make is going to tell you to update all of these don't worry about updating them then go into to the actual tool path and make your make your adjustments your calculations uh one thing that I will say is that I when I click calculate here I'm not sure if the settings going to transfer over in the tool path I'm sorry the template machine file or not but every time I press calculate this menu does not go away I have it set to where calculate keeps this up and I have to manually close it every time I prefer that because I don't want this annoying 3D view to be popped up every single time you hit calculate that's annoying that's something you can change in options it's one of these settings in here um anyway if if you're if you open up this file from me and press calculate and this doesn't go away that's why all right so that's bit tray number one bit tray number two is in here as well basic tool paths for all of this once again and I gave you the dimensions for this cut out and whatnot uh so you can cut this on a separate you know table saw or something like that and then put it on the table with the cutout right here so that's why I put dimensions on this let's close that we no longer need that um now we need to calibrate this location and I'm going to reference off of some images for this to calibrate this what I do is you can of course you can put a piece of material in here and use the corner finder touch off if you want to I don't recommend doing that because I want you to understand how to manually do this without having to deal with a tool right so the way you do that is you put a piece of material in here just like so and then you jog the machine to a specific x value I'm sorry Pacific specific y value that is easy to write down a note so in this case this says I'm at 5.75 for the Y value so the center of the bit is at 5.5 and then the bit itself is a 0.25 inch diameter bit on this particular plane right here right so you make your cut you manually jog the machine to make your cut and then you're left off with some material that is like so it's like this whatever this is you made this cut and this is the material you're left with so then you use calipers to measure the distance from here to here how much material is left all right so you know the center axes of the machine right here you add the radius you add the thickness left and that's the exact location of this does that make sense you do the exact same thing in this direction to establish the exact location in this direction I'll I'll put a picture on the screen of my notes that I used to do this exact setup and you can see the math that I did uh you you fi you start with the exact location of the spindle to begin with and then of course the radius of the bit whatever's left over gives you the distance away from this this exact Corner that you need to locate all right that's how you find this particular Corner location now there's there's some some calibration here maybe that maybe that uh you you have what am I looking for you need to make sure that this is parallel in the y direction right so I made my cuts here put another one up here made my cuts and I found that this location was two thousandths of an inch off of parallel with the Y travel if that makes sense two thousandths of an inch that's nothing to worry about so don't even worry about something simple like that once you have this Corner established first off I copied it into the layer of calibrated locations and then I can work off of this corner for for mortise and Tenon joints so let's turn on mortise and Tenon joint and you can see a lot of stuff right off the bat boom there's a lot of information here and it's a lot of extra stuff uh tenons are cut over here mortises are cut over here so first off let's talk about my vectors these vectors are what I copied over from my my file and it gives you all of the dimensions here this interior Vector is quarter inch by six with a perfect radius the middle one is 3 8 of an inch by six and a quarter or six and an eighth and a half inch by six and a quarter now I did this by establishing these vectors and then just offsetting them by an eighth of an inch and I made a bunch of them so if you know exactly what you need you can quickly just go to it and find it I thought that was super quick but I found a quicker method with this particular one uh so what I did here is all of these tenons are a quarter of an inch in thickness 3 8 of an inch thickness half inch in thickness and I started with a quarter inch by half of an inch and that's what that Vector is and then I created another one a quarter inch more quarter inch more quarter inch more and so on and so on and so on so let's just say you want to get a 3 8 by 3 inch vector or Tenon so you find 3 8 this column three inches is right there that you grab that and you copy it and paste it over to here so that's how you have a quick reference if you want to quick reference but let me show you the exact setup here let me grab this and go to my rectangle so I know the size all right so this is uh two and a half inches by 0.75 inches so you draw your rectangle you put a piece of wood in in the vertical table and you draw your rectangle the exact same size what I do is I draw a a diagonal line from corner to corner and that gives you a snap location to the center which is where you want your Tenon to be go to draw your rectangle uh your rectangle for the Tenon and I put radiused external with a radius of 1.25 or 0.125 inches which is the radius of the bit for my Corners just so that the mortise is easy to match up and I put the center location and then size the mortise I want and I can drop it down there that's how I draw a new one but you don't have to do that what you can do is once you've already have this rectangle established you can just find the rectangle you want for this one let's just say it was two and some change let's just say let's go with a 3 8 by 1.5 I will control C for copy Ctrl V for paste and just so you can see I'm going to move it over here just a little bit that's the new Tenon I'll go ahead and delete this now what you can do is you can grab this hold shift to grab that you go into your align selected objects and align to selection the first object to the last item selected just press Center it'll Center it and there you go so if you want to draw it use the diagonal if you want to copy and paste it copy it and then use your line to perfectly Center it on here hopefully that makes sense so this is the Tenon that we want to cut let me back up to make sure I got the right size that is the Tenon that we want to cut so how do we cut this the easiest way to do that is to just offset a vector so that it completely covers the wood and then you draw a or you make a pocketing tool path to pocket that out very basic right this pocketing tool path is in between these two vectors and it'll create the Tenon very very very simple there's no need if you're using a up cut spiral bit there's no need to score the complete perimeter for a nice clean cut I did that in my machine file it's just a waste of time everything that I've done without the scoring tool path uh works just fine so there you go that's how you cut your tenons now when I'm setting up the board in in my table let's just say I'm using three quarters of an inch thick material and I want to cut a through Tenon on on three quarter inch thick material so I actually want to make my Tenon 7 8 of an inch I want to be a little bit longer so I make my Tenon stock if there's a Tenon on both sides I make it quarter inch long if there's a tendon on one side I make it 1 8 of an inch long now I'll set this board into the table so that it is one inch above the spoil board then here in my material setup I set the Z zero to the material surface and I set I'm sorry the machine bed I set it to machine bed and I set the material thickness to one inch no matter what so let me go ahead and do that really quick uh let's not recalculate everything so if you look at this image right here you can see that I'm going to Z zero off of the machine bed and I set the material in the Vise so that it is sticking up by one inch and then at that point how long do I want to cut the Tenon 7 8 of an inch I'll cut the Tenon at 0.875 7 8 of an inch so that's what I did to cut this particular Tenon and here's the example that you see of it actually cut on the machine the fit that I achieved here is slightly slightly loose and I want to bring that up because if you if you do a climb cut a quarter inch bit will deflect away from a vector if you do a conventional cut that quarter inch bit will deflect towards the vector so if you make a climb cut it's going to be as tight as possible the tendon in the mortise this was a conventional cut and it was a little bit sloppy however this itty bitty little bit sloppy is absolutely perfect for PVA glue PVA glue is water-based it's going to swell the joint and in my opinion this is this is really good if the joint is super tight but you can still close it then use a glue like epoxy or or hide glue because that will lubricate The Joint as it is closed so that's that's the fit that I achieved on this mortise intended but how do you cut the mortise well you take that same exact vector and what I'll do is I'll just go ahead and copy it over here I'll control C for copy Ctrl V for paste and I will move it whoops grab this move it over to this line that I have set up on a fence now I take the center of this and I drop it right there now I'll go ahead and delete the original but that is my new Vector for the mortise if I turn on my layers for the corner fence cleanup you'll see that this is the the line of the fence right so if the material is two inches in width I'll simply press M for move grab this M for move Y is my move command not coming up oh because that's that's I was in the wrong tab I guess grab this press M and now the the move box box is up so if my material is two inches in width right here just move it a relative X position of one press apply there you go now it's perfectly centered and why I have this line here is because you can take your stock strike a line across your material and and say that is the center of my mortise then you slide that material up against the fence so it lines up with the line on the fence and then you have a perfect placement every single time and you can just continuously repeat the same tool path for as many mortises as you want with this setup let's just say you're making a blanket ladder that has four mortises on each side of the blanket ladder all you have to do is remove this top piece and you have pass through and you still have your alignment for the center of the mortise you can batch out all of your mortises super super quick with this little alignment line if you have any questions about this uh I'd like me to elaborate any further if you if it's something's not clicking with you just just let me know I will no problem explaining this in any any other way but that's how you do your mortise and tendon cuts and it's it's super cool super easy and super rewarding to be able to do quality joinery with a CNC machine I absolutely love it let's turn the mortise and Tenon joinery layer off and as you notice it's not locked because I like to copy and paste a lot in this layer so let's turn that off and now we have box joints so if a box joints it's pretty self-explanatory you have a quarter inch bit that's going to run across this path going down down going the whole length of it and then go down whole length of it go down for your total total depth now there's two tool paths for this rather than having to offset your material so what I did is I basically duplicated it on a different length different uh uh offset rather I I made one with quarter inch spacing and then I copied and pasted the next one quarter inch away and this tool path is set up for quarter inch box joints you can create your own for 3 8 or whatever it's it's very simple to do so I have this Vector set up to go the whole travel the whole length if you're the example I cut here on the in the shop was only half the width or half the capacity of the vertical table and I just let this Vector run out the whole way it's not that much time of course you can cut it down and recalibrate the recalculate the vector if you want but in this setup I'm leaving bill with a vector that can basically do box joints on anything that he puts in it that's three quarters of an inch thick so all of your drawer sides if you want to do drawers you want to do small boxes you can use these two vectors and these tool paths to cut as many box joints as you want without recalibrating anything else all you have to do is change your depth of cut now again just like when cutting the tenons I have the I have it set up so that you reference off of the machine bed for your Z zero you set the material one inch above the spoil board and at that point your depth on your tool path is the size of your of your fingers for the Box joint again hopefully that makes sense um and of course you can scale this for half inch or 3 8 of an inch um you understand how this works hopefully and you can create any type of box joint Vector you want also something that you can do is let's just say that this this is oversized let's just say that this is your board that's in there you can create a bunch of random circles that are 100 inside this right random circles and cut integral dowels on the end of your boards and if you want these to be through dowels you copy this geometry over over wherever on your uh your material here and you cut those exact holes out and then you have some pretty weird unique custom integral dowel mortise and Tenon joints so it's not just limited to box joints not just limited to mortise and Tenon joints all of that is capable or you're capable of doing all that with this machine file I apologize for my tongue-tied rambliness in this video I'm just trying to get this information across and there's a lot of it so that's all that is in the machine file remember before you export any of these you should always verify your material set up the way you want to do it and then recalculate all of these tool paths that you're going to use don't ever just accept this and send this out to your machine you have to adjust for your material setup for every one of these tool paths all right as I'm editing editing this finishing up this really ridiculously long video um there is some things that I've just kind of glossed over the fit on these mortise and Tenon joints I mentioned this was a little bit loose but acceptable and I still think that's the case it's a little bit loose but it is acceptable if you add PVA glue to this it's going to swell up and be even more tight a couple things that will affect the fit of your joint first off you can mess around with some test pieces and and Implement an offset in the tool path to make it tighter or loose depending on what you want to achieve but also take into consideration that a climb cut versus conventional cut plays a role in how tight these joints are because a conventional cut is going to deflect in towards the vector a climb cut is going to deflect out away from the vector so if it's too loose try just simply changing your test piece to a conventional cut see if that helps or climb cut rather see if that helps if it's too loose so that's what mortise and Tenon joinery you can dial them in very easily now box joints are one of those joints that on all of my CNC Cuts with box joints they always no matter what tend to be just a little bit tight and I actually never showed this completed joint from the machine so this is the joint that the machine cut it is super tight it is really ridiculously tight I had to use a mallet to seat this and again it's the exact same one-to-one vector or one to one tongue [Music] finger to Gap spacing that was used for like the Modis and Tenon setup I don't know if it's just because there's so much more surface area here and if one of these boards has just a smidgen of a of a cup to the boat to the board well that's going to affect the fit as well there's a lot more variables when you have a lot of surface area like this so box joints just uh make some tests obviously but it's almost always going to be a little bit too tight this is this is ridiculously tight I've got a really push to get this to open up anyway box joints on a CNC that's a lot of fun uh the the final thing that I glossed over was these quarter inch steel pins this is a quarter inch by one inch steel pin it's right there under that blue you kind of can't see it these just these are just little steel pins so these are one inch in length and when the spoil board is cut there are um quarter inch pinholes drilled in for the fence now they're drilled in the same thickness as the spoil board and then of course they're drilled all the way through the fence pieces I didn't drill mine all the way through on the fence pieces and that was wrong um so on on the the final thing that you saw in my shop uh they weren't you couldn't see them all the way through but on yours they should be and the reason being is these are going to go inside the spoil board as well well if these are one inch in length and you Whittle away that spoil board down to let's just say an eighth of an inch then they're still going to be sticking through the fence pieces if you continue to reuse those fence pieces which there's no reason why you shouldn't so for that reason those holes need to be through holes that way they can eventually stick through the top of those fence pieces if you get down that far I kind of glossed over that that there was just this has been one of those projects where there's just there's just so much about it so I feel like as I'm closing this out I feel like I left something out which is crazy to say because how long this is I need to shut up if you're interested in the plans and whatnot I have all that available on my website um if you have any questions about it specifically about it uh there is a customer service line I set up basically a Google Voice number that way you can text it and I can answer immediately on my phone if I get it or when I get it rather um there's that I don't know what else to say you guys take care have a great day and I'll talk to you in the next video

Channel: Jay Bates

Views: 94,819

Keywords: jayscustomcreations, jay bates, easy woodworking project, woodworking, woodshop, woodworking projects, make, build

Id: Dvur03ZA3vU

Length: 98min 21sec (5901 seconds)

Published: Thu Feb 16 2023