Frugal and Functional: My Top Hold Down Clamping Methods and Affordable CNC Wasteboard Set up

what's up everybody in today's video we're going to replace this wasteboard throw a freshman on there and then I'm going to go over all the hold down methods I prefer and then show you guys some other methods I don't prefer so there's a few reasons I'm replacing this wasteboard I could probably get a couple more surfaces out of it but I want to change up this fence system that I have out of PVC pipes and then also when I put the new spindle mount on there it kind of shifted everything forward like an inch and a half so the machine can actually carve further than this stops so I'm just gonna if I gotta take it off I might as well replace them so we're just going to replace them and then go over a bunch of clamping methods foreign [Music] area of the machine so I just have a regular v-bit on here nothing special just anything with the point so just Mark that roughly doesn't got to be perfect then I'm just going to do that all the way around and make a square to show my actual cut area and how far the spindle can actually go I already had the back three segments marked as I'm just replacing my wasteboard and just changing the front of it but if yours is brand new I would just Mark all four sides with the pencil we're having more in-depth video on all this so I'll add that link up in the corner if you want to check that one out and in the description so we're going to kind of just zoom past this part now to cut my strips I got this half sheet from Home Depot for like 30 bucks you can have the big box store cut these for you but I can't promise to do a good job so I added this little Groove to sit on top of the t-tracks and I'm going to add it with my fancy Joiner you may not have this feature on your jointer or even own a joiner so if you don't have this I would just use a rabbit bit I'll add a link to it wrap a bit down in the description and all you need is a handheld router of any kind [Music] okay so why waste your time notching these out you by no means have to notch these out but if you do go with the t-track system I'd recommend it because if you don't when you clamp a bunch of stuff down you sometimes put a bunch of force on these and when this pushes down it pulls up the t-track and when you Notch it out and screw these down it's just that much more holding these things down and secure to the wasteboard you also want the screws to go in as deep as possible so you can get as many surfaces out of these as you can I think I surfaced the last one three or four times and I probably could have got two more before the screws have been starting to be an issue I'd recommend leaving at least a quarter inch of MDF so the screws actually have something to hold on to all right I'll do the next step all my sheets are attached everything's moved forward where it needs to be now hear me out the next step you do not have to do this but I would strongly recommend you do so we're going to flatten the waist board on my first CNC I pretty much never flattened the waist forward I don't even know if I ever did but let me tell you it makes a huge difference if you're cutting like V bit type stuff it just you'll notice inconsistencies especially over a large area if you're cutting small pieces like this all the time you'll probably never notice a difference unless you cut one here and cut one way in the back corner so starting out you don't have to do it but we're here I'd recommend it I do sell a file bundle so you can it'll make this a little easier I do not offer G-Code but when you're flattening your way sporting starting out your machine you need to learn how to do this this is crucial and flattening the wasteboard flattening the waistband is one of the easiest things you're going to do on your machine so flatten your baseboard don't have to but you really should I use this cheap bit I got on Amazon it's just a flattening bit I think it's like one inch I'll post a link in the description it's just like two little replacement blades you can rotate them and so I'll use it for is flattening but works great and I typically when I do my first surfacing I'll do .03 and then that usually gets me pretty close you may have to do it one more time with a tiny little pass but usually that gets me pretty bit depends how cupped and dipped your entire wasteboard is but you can go pretty fast you're only taking .03 so another thing I see people doing wrong when they do their way sport is they have their spindle or router speed set way too high I never go over four on the Makita I never go over 16 000 RPMs on this guy so set that thing at like two and just let it cut I'll probably put this out like 12 000 RPMs I'm just gonna guess I'm not gonna actually figure it out but you don't want that thing if you're getting burn marks and stuff it's spinning way too fast now we're going to look for flat spots you kind of want to have this little bit of lip the whole entire way if you have flat spots you'll have to run it again with the shallow pass now I had no flat spots but I didn't quite cut all the way back to the end as my sheets were a little long so I just cleaned those up with a old hand plane now for whatever reason I joined all vectors when I was cutting my wasteboard lines and it should have just cut lines but instead because I joined them I cut a bunch of squares and it took 30 minutes when I should have took 20 minutes now we're gonna add the PVC wasteboard I'll add these files to my current wasteboard bundle I just used an eighth inch up cut but all you need to do is put a calipers on a one inch piece of PVC pipe and just cut those marks on your board and these things were tight I had to pound them in and pull them out the pliers but they did go in and out and I made them a little bit larger in the next file so we officially have the PVC fence on here and I stole this idea from Brownwood go follow bronwood Nick is DC and C cutting board inlay master and I steal a lot of my ideas from him so follow him but I love the PVC fence idea because it's so simple and if you hit these with the bit who cares not a big deal you can buy a whole chunk of PVC for pretty cheap and this is just one inch PVC and I cut it into like inch and a quarter chunks another question I got asked about this is how do you know it's Square the PVC fence will be square because you designed it in your software if you're soft if it's Square in your software it's going to cut Square especially on the CNC and it also lines up perfect with the grid I put on here so now let's go over some clamping ideas and show you what I like and don't like about certain methods now Justin Graves a lot of these noodle boards so I'm going to add a little easier system for her and just add a couple more of these PVC pipes so I can use like a friction system and I'm just gonna jump in my software and add my measurements so they line up where I need them and then just push play I'll probably add these in a few more spots I just got to figure out where exactly I want them and here's the friction setup I was talking about it's just essentially two wedges that you pound together and it just makes this super tight foreign block over here for good measure and she's good to go so obviously as you can see how the t-track is my preferred method when it comes to this kind of stuff I'm very simplistic I don't like complexity I just as simple as possible stupid simple easy or something they say but that's that's how I operate I don't like overly complicated things if I have to replace these I can just cut a new piece on the table saw plop it in here and it'll literally take me minutes it'll take me longer to surface it and put the Grid on than to actually replace the board itself when I first started out I had an x-carve in the x-carved cave came with the threaded insert style base and at first I really like that but once I switched over to this just to try it I I'm not a fan of the threaded inserts and if you need to make a new wasteboard adding all them threaded inserts every time is just a pain and I just wasn't a big fan of screwing everything into the threaded inserts for every single project so if you're just first setting up your machine I would honestly recommend trying Both Worlds maybe try the t-tracks and then add some threaded inserts throughout your wasteboard and see what you like and then maybe on your next wasteboard you can switch over to threaded inserts or a combination of both whatever kind of tricks your trigger okay now I'm going to show you guys my favorite and most used method and it's the double-sided tape method but I don't actually use double-sided tape I'm just not a big fan of the double-sided tape I've had more failures with the double-sided tape than the method I use but it's essentially the same thing it's just poor man's double-sided tape is what I call it I use masking tape you can get like three rolls of this for like 10 bucks and it lasts me forever and then your super glue of choice this is my go-to type on everything for me that's my adhesive I stick to it and I've literally had this fail me like three times ever and reasons this will fail you is a is if your piece has some twist or Rock to it that'll just make a not secure Bond another method is if your piece is Dusty your wasteboard's dusty or if your wasteboard is super chewed up if there's a bunch of cut lines in it it's just it's hard for the tape to stick and I actually just had something Break Free which is why I went ahead and replaced the waste board that's kind of when you know it's time because when stuff starts messing up I was cutting a layered Mallet with a giant upcut bit and it picked up the piece and broke free and yeah no good but we're gonna make a new one here just a simple one out of Poplar and I'm gonna use this massive half inch bit for clearing just to show you guys how well this actually holds whenever I start a piece or a new project I mark my Center because I zero out of the center it's just what I prefer and I always put the calipers on it and get the thickness and write it right on there okay make sure you have a nice nice and stuck to the surface put your piece right on there foreign if I was cutting something more dense I would use another strip here but this Poplar is not very very dense okay make sure your piece is completely flat no Rock to it give it a nice quick flip and then when I flip it I move it around and spread that glue no activator don't need it this works just fine I'll let this sit for about a minute and we're ready to cut [Music] foreign together and we have one of these so this is the Mallet all glued up I still gotta like sand it and shape it a little bit but I put a little Easter egg in this video If you find Manny I'll put them right here hit it in the video I'll send this to one the first person who finds it and puts the time stamp in the comments uh us only shipping overseas is too expensive but yeah find it she's yours this is the finished one I also made this Bowl yesterday on the CNC 3D carved two-sided so if you're interested in these kind of videos let me know and I'll show you guys how I make this kind of stuff now for the screw method it's a little down and dirty but it gets the job done one thing you gotta avoid is blowing out corners but it'll still work it boogers up your wasteboard a little bit but it's quick it's fast and I haven't had it fail yet we cut a lot of mallets and I just cut the blanks a couple inches long and I very rarely have any issues hitting them it was a little warp so it didn't cut all the way through on the edges but I'll show you how I deal with that later and just like that onto the next job when you remove the screws it leaves these little Mounds I just take a sharp stiff putty knife and it just scrapes them right off so it's flush again now to do with tabs and the areas that are cut through I just use an oscillating tool with the fine end on it and it zips right through that little bit of wood all right so this is just uh mock-up board then I just have a random assortment of little fences that just slide in the t-tracks there we go look at I mean just like that it's super tight then I'll just do something like this nothing ain't going nowhere if you watch my CNC inlay videos that's just that's just pretty much how I do all my cutting boards just kind of lock them in place and they're not going anywhere there's also systems out there that are like vacuum beds and I've personally never used one but I've talked to people that have them on like professional size machines and the amount of power they suck is unreal like a 4x8 machine the vacuum system's sucking 60 amps alone if not more so for a hobby scene seat in my opinion I just think it's kind of just a lot of work and Overkill and I think you'd be a little let down if you actually used or built one for something like small like this it just wouldn't have enough Force to hold that thing down so unless you're doing solely Chic Goods I just think it's quite Overkill and a lot of just time and investment to do it but again to each their own if that's what you want and makes you happy by all means build or make a system there's also the cam style clamp which you turn and it tightens into your work piece I'm personally not a fan of them I use them before and they kind of just wiggle free and it's just not something for me you can find files for him on Etsy I think I went over most there's the regular hold Downs which I would use out of wood if you make your own the cam clamps which I'm not a fan of but they do work for some people the double-sided tape which is my favorite the screws mess up your wasteboard a little bit but they do work good and I've never had one fail um there's also the brad nails you can use brad nails to hold your work pieces down I've tried that I'm not really a fan of that either because it sticks in your piece and I feel like it messes up the wasteboard more than the screws do I think that's really it I just like a simple simplistic combination of fences the PVC pipes I'll add a few more around the wasteboard just as I use it the wooden simple fences with the t-tracks you can also get you can buy like t-track stops that are like machined and made up like aluminum but these pieces of scrap with holes drilled in them are good enough for me if you have other things I missed or didn't see put them down in the comments I'd love to see them and it might also help somebody else when they're making their decision again these are all my opinions on like what I feel works and doesn't so I highly recommend you try a couple different things it depends on the individual and what you're cutting and doing if I was cutting big sheet Goods all the time I probably wouldn't just use a bunch of double-sided tape because it would just be a ton of waste look on Etsy Etsy has a ton of different like files you can buy for different clamping things there's also a few other videos on YouTube that have other clamping methods but I haven't seen anything out there that's like super crazy that I haven't tried there's a few type of hold Downs that I haven't tried I'll also tag like Ben Meyer's video uh infinity and Morgan put out that video on his way Sports style that one looks pretty cool all right that's the end of the video guys if you have any recommendations for me let me know down in the comments on future videos or other kind of clamping methods I should try and yeah I hope you guys all have a wonderful day

Channel: Two Moose Design

Views: 60,346

Keywords: woodworking, diy, onefinity cnc, cnc hold down, cnc waste board, cnc clamps, cnc, cnc hold down methods, onefinity journeyman x50, onefinity setup, onefinity wasteboard setup, wood cnc machine, wood cnc machine working video, how to, onefinity cnc journeyman, onefinity cnc wasteboard, onefinity cnc setup, two moose design, cnc woodworking, cnc wasteboard, cnc spoiler board, onefinity spoilboard, cnc wood, cnc diy, woodworking cnc, cnc pvc, cnc fence, cnc clamping

Id: -rkxhCLBRRU

Length: 16min 15sec (975 seconds)

Published: Sat Jan 14 2023