The Strater: The Hotel That Built Durango

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(upbeat music) - So before the Strater, Durango has a lot of log cabins, even some adobe houses, it is essentially a mining camp. With the Strater, it becomes a serious town and a community. - If a town wanted to be permanent in the West, it had to have a fine hotel. - It was a pretty wild place. - There were shootings, the sheriff shot the Marshall, that's the kind of town it was. So bringing in a hotel with some class, certainly would have changed the environment. - It needed a posh hotel to prove to investors that this was a place where your money was safe, where the community would grow, where there were other people with similar interests. - Without the Strater Hotel Durango would probably be a very different place. - And it becomes a place where movies are filmed, where movie stars come and stay, and then the Strater became the best historic hotel in our community. - That's the spirit of the Strater. And it started with Henry a long time ago, just wanting a place for his pharmacy. And it morphed into a whole lot more than he might have imagined. - [Narrator 1] This program was made possible by the History Colorado State Historical Fund. - [Narrator 2] Supporting projects throughout the state to preserve, protect, and interpret Colorado's architectural and archeological treasures. History Colorado State Historical Fund. Create the future, honor the past. - [Narrator 1 ] With the additional funding provided in memory of Deanna E. La Camera, and members like you. With special thanks to the Denver Public Library, History Colorado, the Colorado Office of Film, Television and Media, and to these organizations. (upbeat music) - [Narrator 3] Durango Colorado is famous in great part because of its Narrow Gauge Railroad, that runs between the towns of Silverton and Durango. Today the train attracts tourists. But in 1881, it attracted money. Mining money. - Durango is here because of the original Denver and Rio Grande railroad that rushed out of Denver South, and then across through a number of communities to get here, to get up to Silverton for the gold and silver which had been discovered there. - The mining in Silverton, was really the Genesis for this whole area. - So the actual mines are to the North Silverton Telluride. But they were so high in terms of altitude that you couldn't smelt the minerals. So Durango became a smelting town, and it was a smoky, dirty, dusty, industrial place, where coal came through and then gold and silver came down out of the mountains to be smelted. One of the things the railroad wanted to do, was make money on real estate. And so it chose where to put towns. So the railroad chose the town of Durango. - When the railroad laid out the town of Durango, it had areas where it hoped to have hotels. Prime real estate was sold to those people who were most likely to build the kind of thing. The railroad knew would establish the community. - [Narrator 3] About 1700 miles from the rough shod town of Durango, three brothers sons of a plumber in Cleveland Ohio, somehow won the contract to bring water up from the Animas river, to Durango. The youngest of the Strater brothers was Henry. But the 21 year old wasn't really interested in plumbing. - Like a lot of young men, Henry Strater was interested in making a fortune in the gold and silver camps. In his case, he wasn't going to make money as a miner, or as a prospect, but as a pharmacist. And he was interested in town building, and he knew the value of an opulent hotel. And so eventually he decides he's gonna borrow as much money as he can, and build what he hopes will be in premier hotel in Southwest Colorado. The Strater. And it has become the real center of town in terms of evenings out, and menus, where to eat, certainly where to drink, it is the posh place to visit. And it's had that reputation. And I guess in some ways that reputation begins in the 1890s with Gustaf Nordenskiöld. - Gustaf Nordenskiöld came to Durango because he was ailing from tuberculosis. And he was told in his doctors encouraged him that dry climate like Durango would be healthy for him. So he came out here. - [Narrator 3] Gustaf was the of a famous Swedish Explorer. And Gustaf himself had become obsessed with the newly discovered Mesa Verde cliff dwellings near Durango. He saw a future fame and fortune, in the ancient ruins. - So he begins to excavate at Mesa Verde, and people eventually amass seven train car loads of artifacts. Seven train car loads of original ancestral Puebloans, and baskets, pottery, he collects everything. And is going to take it back to Sweden. - Well, the locals just thought that was horrible. So the sheriff in Durango arrested Gustaf Nordenskiöld and putting him in the house arrest here at the Strater. - [Narrator 3] The 23 year old sent a six word telegram home for help. Much trouble, some expense, no danger. - He's in trouble, trial comes up, goes to court, his lawyer asked the judge, "your honor what crime has my client committed?" "What law has been broken?" And there was none. So in many ways the start of the antiquities act of 1906, the start of American National Monuments, the start of an attempt to not only protect Indian burials in Indian graves, but Indian artifacts begins here at the Strater. With Gustaf Nordenskiöld who is definitely done something that no one appreciated, but it inspires federal legislation. - [Narrator 3] The Strater hotel hosted its range of famous and infamous guests over the years, but it did so largely without its namesake founder. - Henry Strater being a young man when he built a hotel he and his family, had no intention of running the hotel at all. So they contacted a fellow named Harry Rice to run the hotel. So they leased out the property, Henry being young and inexperienced forgot to exclude the place for his pharmacy, so he went back to Harry Rice and said, "gosh I want to put my pharmacy here. I know we've talked about that, I don't see that I remembered to put that in the lease." He said, 'you're quite right. We didn't put it in the lease. And we're gonna put a bar in there instead. And so sorry if you want it, it's going to be quite expensive." - Henry had to put his pharmacy down the street a block. Because he couldn't get it in his own hotel. Henry built another hotel right alongside the Strater called the Colombian Hotel. His intent was to put Rice out of business, which he didn't do because unfortunately the Silver Panic happened. Mr. Rice and Henry Strater and the family lost both properties back to the bank of Cleveland. - The Silver Panic of 1893, affected the entire Colorado Western slope. It impacted all of the mining communities in the Rocky mountains. We had a dual monetary standard. So in those days, your paper dollar was actually backed by gold and silver. And the monetary panic occurs, when the U S Congress decides not to back it with silver, but just to have a gold standard. And so the silver communities crumble. They fell because all of a sudden there is no base market for their products. Because of Silverton, silver by the ton, that's how the name came about. Is impacted, it has a direct impact on Durango, there's less ore into the smelter, jobs are diminished, people are laid off and money stops flowing into the Western slope. - It was hard on the whole family, and Henry just left town and went to Cuba. - So he gets the hotel built, and sort of wander South and disappears into history. - [Narrator 3] The bank of Cleveland repossessed the Strater hotel, sold it, and then it was leased to a man named Charles Stilwell. And his partner, a woman named Hattie Mashburn. - Hattie Mashburn was one of Durango's most successful business women. She came in as the executive housekeeper at a time when the Stilwell family came in too. So Hattie Mashburn and Charles Stilwell became partners in operations of the Strater. - One of the interesting questions is what exactly is he managing? Is he managing just the hotel or busy managing some of the ladies who take up residence on the fourth floor? What the locals nicknamed the monkey floor, because in fact monkey business is occurring up there. That's a little odd to have ladies of the night or prostitutes on the top floor of a posh hotel, instead of in the basement or somewhere else. Hattie Mashburn becomes the Madam and then has her quote girls working for her. - She saved all of her money, and she was a very extensive landowner. She owned homes and buildings all over town. So she was probably assured as anybody in this town was and quite wealthy. Hattie Mashburn, was probably the reason that during the tough times, the hotel made it through. - [Narrator 3] Although laws in the state banned both prostitution and then alcohol, the illegal was generally more profitable than the legal. - Prohibition was a real interesting time at the Strater hotel. - When prohibition comes along, you could certainly get a drink at the Strater. - There was a bellhop named Johnny McNamara. Johnny decided they could make a lot of more money selling booze and he could hauling baggage. So he hid the booze that he would buy, down at the bottom of the elevator. Nobody went under the elevator you could be crushed. The general manager at the time knew that this was going on, but he didn't know who was doing it or where they kept the liquor. So he was on a rampage cause he didn't wanna sell liquor in the Strater. But Johnny was pretty crafty. After prohibition was over, then my grandfather swore that he was gonna buy enough whiskey, that we would never have to worry about getting some more ever again. So he bought a full railroad car full of early times whiskey. We are the largest and longest stiller of early times Bourbon whiskey in the world. Right here at the Strater has been our bar of whiskey ever since prohibition. - [Narrator 3] Today Rod Barker is the third generation of his family to run the hotel. A legacy that began in the roaring twenties, with Rod's grandfather Earl Barker Senior. - My father came in in 1922, then in 1926, a group of businessmen got together and formed what they called the New Strater Corporation. My father would see the opportunity to buy that stock. And over the years kept buying shares until 1954, he bought all of the stock out. My wife and I were in Hawaii, in the hotel business at that time. And he gave us a call said, "please come back and let's run this hotel." - In 1954, my dad came back to run the hotel. The first thing they noticed right off the bat, here's a hotel, and a town that had nothing to do at night. - And I had a lot of ideas at that time that weren't quite what my father thought should be happen to the hotel. I wanted to move a bar into the corner, my dad was very upset about that. Daddy thought we'd just have all the local drunks in there. But he went to Hawaii for a trip, and while they were gone, we built the Diamond Belle. (playing piano) - And they realized that they could get forgiveness instead of permission. And they just went for it. When he came back and the bar was full of his own friends, my grandfather thought it was his idea all along. - So as America moves into an automobile culture in the 1950s, new motels are going up but there still there's Strater. So they manage to move it from just another hotel, back into the posh role that it had originally played. - And so they created this bar called the Diamond Belle Saloon, and it was a turn of the Century Victorian bar. It was immediate success. So the Diamond Belle, became a big part of our operation, and in fact in town was one of the only places you could go and really have a social scene. - My name is Alex Camel, I actually grew up here and walking by the windows. When I was little I saw the girls all dressed up, then decided that was something I wanted to do. I enjoyed my costume a lot, as a bar it makes me feel really empowered. I feel like I'm walking history, and I feel like I can bring that experience to multiple people in that way. - My name is Adam Swanson, and I am a resident ragtime pianist at the Strater Hotel. I came to the Strater when I was 12 years old to see a man named Johnny Maddix play the piano. He was taking a break from playing and sat down to autograph someone's old vinyl record. And I got up and started playing Nathan Lee frag. His head turned around so fast, I thought it was going to come off. - I was there that night and I said, "you know what? You just keep coming back every year. We're going to let you play on this piano. And someday you should aspire to play in this bar. I would like to see you play in this bar." And I think Adam just took that to heart. - [Narrator 3] Adam Swanson's boyhood dream of becoming a professional musician, has more than come true. He is the only four time world champion, old time piano player. And has performed at Carnegie Hall, the Kennedy Center and the Diamond Belle Saloon. A place that stirs drinks as well as imagination. - One of our very most notable guests at the Strater was Louis L'Amour. Not only because he's famous, because he was fun. - So Louis L'Amour was sort of a pulp fiction cowboy writer, who then gets better and better. And winds up with TV scripts and movie scripts. And the story is that to get inspired for some of his short stories and then his later novels, he rents a room directly above the Diamond Belle Saloon. So the dust, and noise, and the piano come up through the floorboards, and that inspires him to write the many, many Western novels that he did. - So every year he would come back and stay in room 222. He would say at the same desk, he had an Underwood typewriter that he'd use with two fingers, he was blinding fast with two fingers. I guess maybe kind of like we are with our thumbs today, but he was even faster. - So the West is really popular in the 1950s and 1960s. The West is on television, it's in the movies, it's certainly in songs, it's in music. And there are scholars who would say, we're turning to the West, as a place for American myth and American history, because of communism. Because of fears of Russia, fears of what's happening around the world. So we turn back to our own roots, and those roots happen to be the American West. And the Strater embraces that. And the Strater adds more red silk, and red plush velour, and it all blends together nicely. - [Narrator 3] The Western allure of the Strater, is actually owed to England's Queen Victoria. Her reign lasted for most of the 19th century, including when the Strater was built. So when Earl and Jentra Barker took over remodeling the hotel, they hearkened back to Henry Strater's day. By using the American Walnut version, of the British Queen style. - The Strater has influenced the Victorian aspect of Dorango. Lots of places now are using that theme. I think we started it, Henry Strater certainly did. Our biggest influence was my mother. And she had Victorian furniture, in a Victorian home in Durango. She said that she thought this would be perfect here, which it was. - Where we are right now, the hotel that has the most Walnut American Victorian antiques under one roof in the country. - The reason the Victorian era took off was because Queen Victoria expected the people that she would stay at, she would expect them to redecorate their house to her style. That's pretty audacious, but that's Queen Victoria. Redoing this hotel became really fun for me because of a fellow that worked closely with me and for me, Charlie Schumacher. Charlie Schumacher was a fellow that came on board to the hotel with my mom and dad back in the late sixties, early seventies. He was a contractor. - And so we got Charlie Schumacher and his father who was a painter. Who came in and made a Walnut bar for us. That's when we first met Charlie. (upbeat music) - So Charlie was a real genius. He was a silversmith, he was a paper hanger, he was top of the line wood crafter, everything that we needed to do, we didn't have to go out and find qualified people in contractors, which was an enormous advantage. Charlie and I we really were like brothers. - He can do anything, if you tell him, (indistinct) Charlie you probably can't do that, that's the wrong thing to say to Charlie, because he'll do it. - I came back in 1983, and worked with Charlie as the property manager. So Charlie and I started getting the idea that we could do some really fun stuff. We could start making Victorian wallpaper and different things like that. Charlie was 87 when he passed away. It obviously touched me greatly, because of our closeness. When you spend that kind of time making something special, it touches you in a special way. And I think in many ways Charlie touched us all that way. - [Narrator 3] It was Charlie Schumacher's gifted hands, and rod Barker's singular vision that have made the Strater, the Strater. - When guests came in, I would imagine that most of them would feel a little nostalgic about the good old days. And a feeling of warmth and welcome. - Well We hope that they feel the feeling of going back in time. And we have a little diary put in the rooms, that the guest can look at and see what other guests thought. And when we first read those books that our son put in the rooms, we all had tears in their eyes reading them. They were so emotionally written. They were just great. They pour out their souls of what they think of the hotel, and we think we've accomplished what we set out. - [Narrator 3] Durango was born of Henry Strater's determination to build a hotel that would build a community. That the historic Strater, is place that the Barker family has so meticulously treasured, is on the market. - It's been a hard thing to come to grips with. Deciding to sell the hotel? The hotel is of the demanding thing because I make sure that every little detail, is just the way it should be. I think it's time for us all as the family, the Barker family to move on. It's been 94 years, which is got to be some sort of a record. The Strater is a relic of art that needs to be preserved. And people do appreciate it. Hopefully there will be a buyer that will appreciate it in the same passion. That will be their job, to remind themselves that they have a irreplaceable piece of art. Take care of it. That's what I would say, the legacy is in your future. - What do I hope for the Strater in the future? I want it to stay the same. I particularly liked the ambiance of the Diamond Belle, the piano playing, it is a bit of history and it's great. And in a world that changes all the time, I enjoy places that don't change. And the Strater is one of those. It really is a work of art, and it's a work of art that is historical. So you have a posh downtown hotel, in a relatively small town. Durango is 18,000 people. It's not Chicago, it's not Denver, it's not Boulder, it's Durango. Durango without the Strater wouldn't be the town that it is. It wouldn't have attracted the investors, It wouldn't have the residential community, it wouldn't have the festivities, the Strater really signifies downtown Durango. What's fascinating is that transition from an industrial community, coal mines, gold and silver mines, into a tourist community. And that transition was aided by the Strater. And it still plays that role. (upbeat music)
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Channel: Rocky Mountain PBS
Views: 16,589
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: colorado, history, durango, hotel, strater hotel, west, prohibition, whiskey, southwest, Colorado, Rocky Mountain PBS, PBS, Starter Hotel
Id: Ue0CKXfC8_k
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 26min 40sec (1600 seconds)
Published: Mon Oct 05 2020
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