Colorado Experience: The Stanley Hotel

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-Widely known as the inspiration for Stephen King's 1977 novel, The Shining, the Stanley Hotel's legacy is actually far more interesting than the paranormal activity it's famous for. Hi, I'm John Ferrugia. When Freelan Oscar Stanley arrived in Estes Park in 1903, he wasn't looking for a hotel location, but instead a climate cure for his bout with tuberculosis. But just like the entrepreneurs who followed him, he fell in love with the area, and he built a luxury hotel fit for his elite New England friends. Travel the haunted halls of the Stanley Hotel and meet the gentleman who built the majestic hotel that is arguably one of Colorado's finest. And now "Colorado Experience-- the Stanley Hotel." [music playing] -I want to welcome you to the Stanley Hotel. This is the most magnificent hotel, I believe, in the United States. -The Stanley Hotel is a gem set in a gem of a valley. A place that is beautiful in every direction-- -Stanley Hotel's popularity never ceases to amaze me. -It's pretty famous for ghost stories. So much that goes on here besides the spirit stuff. -One of the things that the people of this valley are really proud of-- it's the landmark of Estes Park. -This program was funded by the History Colorado State Historical Fund. -Supporting projects throughout the state to preserve, protect, and interpret Colorado's architectural and archaeological treasures. History Colorado State Historical Fund-- create the future, honor the past. -With support from the Denver Public Library, History Colorado with additional funding and support from these fine organizations and viewers like you. Thank you. [music playing] -The Stanley Hotel is one of Colorado's-- possibly the world's-- most famous hotels. Although it is widely known as the inspiration for Stephen King's novel The Shining, it's fascinating early history remains little known. Thanks to the continuous efforts of several dedicated entrepreneurs, this mountain paradise has survived the test of time. -The Stanley Hotel is located on the Northwestern end of Estes Park. It's only 30 or so miles from the plains and only another 10 or so miles to Rocky Mountain National Park. And certainly the Ute people, and probably American Indian cultures even before that, have used Estes Park as a hunting preserve, as a game preserve, for elk and deer and sometimes bison and fish. And more recently, at least in relative terms, the Arapaho people, beginning in the late 1700s and early 1800s began coming into this valley as well to harvest lodge poles and to hunt and to use the same resources that American Indian people have been using for generations. -Estes Park sits in a 30 square mile valley. It's called "park" because in the parlance of the mountains, "park" means "valley." So Estes is valley. Estes Park-- the white settler, the first Anglo settler, was Joel Estes. And so it was called Estes' Valley, or ultimately, Estes' Park. -Windham Thomas Wyndham Quinn was the fourth Earl of Dunraven, an Irish baronet who became interested, like many British aristocrats, in the economic possibilities of the American West. And he was also interested in treating the Rocky Mountains as a playground for the wealthy and for the elite. -Homestead Act of 1862, an American citizen could claim 160 acres in land that had been opened for settlement. That was the Earl's problem. Americans could claim the land. Foreigners, Irishmen, Irish lords could not. -But he found a way around that. He would hire roustabouts and ne'er-do-wells from Denver to come up and file a homestead claim. They were required to make improvements. But the law was not specific about what constituted an improvement. So they would simply take four logs and lay them in a square and call it a building. Once they had acquired title to the land, they would sell it off at a reasonable price to the Earl of Dunraven. -He bought up those claims and those 31 individuals. He had direct title to about 6,000 acres of the best land in Estes Park. He wanted to use the valley as a private hunting preserve for himself and his aristocratic friends. By 1878, he has a hotel. It's called the Estes Park Hotel. The locals called it the English Hotel, which was a mistake because it should have been called the Irish Hotel. But it wasn't. It was a fairly large hotel. And it was the fanciest place in the 1870s to stay in the valley. It lasted until 1911 when on an August morning, a fire started and burned the building down. And it was never rebuilt. -Stanley had moved here and was looking to acquire new land just at about the time that the Earl of Dunraven was looking to sell. And it was kind of a match made in heaven. -Stanley family had been in Maine since the early part of the 19th century. In fact, it was said that there were so many Stanleys in Kingfield, Maine that if you threw a stone, you'd hit a Stanley somewhere. -Freelan Oscar Stanley was a Yankee entrepreneur. He was born in Maine and raised in New England. And he, along with his twin brother Francis, were inventors of some talent. -Story is that as kids, their dad gave them a pocketknife. And they went to work whittling and producing [? cobbs, ?] which they sold to their friends. At one point, they actually produced buckets for the maple syrup industry and sold those. So they were enterprising young men from the very beginning. And I suppose if you want to trace their technology back and their ingenuity back-- that Yankee ingenuity we talk about-- you take it back to their boyhood days in Kingfield. FE Stanley had been teaching school, had been manufacturing little kits with compasses and protractors for the School of Business. Done fairly well, but his factory burned down. And he needed a job. And so FE Stanley hired him. -They got their start by inventing a dry plate photography process-- a way to make the process of photography far less cumbersome than it had been. -FO Stanley became the kind of salesman. He went out in the road and got orders for the Stanley Dry Plate Company. And they were doing very well. And along comes George Eastman of Eastman Kodak. And they finally sold the company to George Eastman in 1904. It was for about $500,000, which was a princely sum for that time. -That made them a fortune that they then turned into an even bigger one by continuing to invent and innovate. In the late 1890s, they developed their own steam powered automobile, which was known as the Stanley Steamer. -The earliest horseless carriages were of three different kinds of locomotive power. Some were internal combustion gasoline engines. Some were driven by electrical batteries. And some were driven by steam. And for at least a decade, it wasn't at all clear which technology would win out. -In fact, the Stanley's broke the land speed record in the early 20th century with one of their steam powered automobiles. It became known as the Flying Teapot because despite the fact that it felt like some weird steampunk device, it could really move down the road, provided there was a road to move down. -The history of the Stanley Steam Car Company is not nearly as glamorous or progressive or as technologically relevant as its beginnings. The Stanley's were kind of stubborn. And they didn't keep up with the kind of technology which you needed to keep that a continuing success. So they kind let the technology pass by. -So FO Stanley was a great success before he ever came to Colorado. When he was in his 50s, he contracted tuberculosis. Like so many other Colorado emigrants, Stanley's doctors encouraged him to come to Colorado to live an outdoor life, to breathe in our high, dry atmosphere, because the truth is, doctors didn't have any cure for tuberculosis. -Fortunately, he knew a doctor here in Denver who had been a practicing physician in Maine. And so that summer, under Dr. Bonny's suggestion, he came to Estes Park to recuperate. Fell in love with the valley, and before he left, he bought land for a 5,300 square foot summer cottage. He was 54 when he arrived in 1903, and he summered here for the next 36 years. -Stanley fell in love with Estes Park and was determined to build a mountain paradise. He poured everything into the hotel. At the age of 59, FO Stanley embarked on the last chapter of his life, building a legacy that is still remembered today. -I think you'd have to call FO Stanley a quintessential New England gentleman. He obviously had a New English accent. But he always dressed to the nines. While he was 5 foot 10, because he stood up so straight, he looked taller than that. Always a gentleman-- soft spoken and yet obviously when he said and did something, people listened because he was just a genuinely nice, nice guy. -Mr. Stanley had an extremely good heart for people and for children. And he was a thinker. I think he was an early conservationalist for our community. He was an innovator and an inventor. He actually saw the future is how I look at him. He'd wear a bowler hat. I called him my dapper dressed gentleman. -Flora Stanley was a teacher when FO met her. She taught for a few years and then became a housewife. She was very soft spoken. She loved music. -I think a lot of her feelings came through the music. Her room is the music room where the piano is. And she was real particular with how everything looked in here. It had to be in its proper place with its proper cleanliness. Everything was high class for her. She was an amazing lady, too. They were an amazing couple. -He know nothing about hotels or building hotels or running hotels. Just Stanley goes ahead and decides he's going to one up the Earl and build a bigger and finer and obviously a larger hotel-- a complex, as it were-- and he did. Here is a Georgian architecture hotel sitting on a hillside in Estes Park above a town which is only a few wooden buildings-- very flimsy buildings. This elegant hotel sitting up here, a monument to a man who had audacity and nerve and the ability to look into the future and predict what Estes Park could be if he could give it a head start. And yet when FO Stanley was looking for a name for his hotel, he thought he would call it the Dunraven. The local community, having bought into the story that what the Earl of Dunraven tried to do was to turn the valley into a private hunting preserve, said, wait a minute. That name really doesn't go very well. Let us call it the Stanley Hotel after you, sir. And the Stanley Hotel became the Stanley Hotel. He begins building the hotel in 1900-- the hotel, not one building but 11 buildings-- an entire complex in 1907. It takes two years to build. And in June of 1909, it's finally open to the public. -300 men, two years between 1907 to 1909, working around the clock 24/7, boosting up the economy-- now Mr. Stanley needs to build a town. Now Mr. Stanley is bringing in things like tourism, employment. -Because he wants an all electric hotel, he builds a power plant-- a hydro plant-- out on Fall River. So from the very beginning, this is an electrified hotel. Mr. Dunraven's hotel, it was not electrified. So he had a one upsmanship on the Earl. -He's going to be building the landfill, the sewer, the dump-- everything. He had a nine hole golf course. Where Lake Estes is now, that was actually Stanley Land because that's a manmade reservoir. -I can only imagine what he saw here 115, 120 years ago. -Because of his influence as a New England capitalist and investor, he was able to bring some positive political pressure to bear on Congress in order to create the national park. And for all of these reasons, Estes Park thrived. But Stanley brought something else that I think he doesn't get a lot of credit for. And that is, he brought automobiles. Remember, this is the end of the great golden age of the railroad. But Estes Park never got a railroad line. Stanley changed the calculation of that. He inaugurated a steam powered auto bus service or, as he called it, an auto stage service, from Lyons, the location of the nearest railroad depot, and Estes Park. -He goes to work. He helps to incorporate the local bank. And before he's done, he gives the town land for a school, land for the town dump, land for a park. And he's become known as the grand old man of Estes Park. -Stanley Hotel was modeled on the great east coast hotels of Newport, Rhode Island and New England-- places where the wealthiest families in America would come and spend their summers. The scale is monumental. It dwarfed the little village of Estes Park that sat at its base. -The intention was so that their friends could come out and visit them for the summer season. So we call this Flora's Guest House, if you can just imagine that. The style of the building is actually called Georgian Colonial Revival architecture. The windows are special because some of them, or most of them, are original to the hotel. They're the palladium windows. The first guest of the Stanley Hotel would have arrived in a magnificent manner, but they would have been victims of a practical joke. You're coming down the canyon, the twists and the turn. You've never seen a bear before. You see a bear. He stands up. He charges a Stanley steam car. The steam car driver says, don't worry, ma'am. That happens all the time. And he gets out his gun, and he shoots that bear. Well, no he didn't. It's a man in a bear suit. No one knew about the bear except FO, Flora, and the bear himself. -Certainly a luxury hotel of the caliber of the Stanley was going to really attract the best and the brightest. And it did. President Theodore Roosevelt stayed here. The emperor and empress of Japan stayed here at one point. This was a global destination, a place where you could come and enjoy the beauty of the wilderness with all the amenities of industrial America. -This was built for the elite. They came. They stayed longer, brought their servants with them-- the maids and the nannies and all that-- and they stayed month. Some of them stayed whole summer. -It never made a lot of money. It needed somebody like FO Stanley who had deep pockets. And Mr. Stanley had something else that every entrepreneur ought to have. He had no children. He had no heirs to leave money to. He only came here in the summer. He would come out from Massachusetts in the late spring, stay here all summer. The story was that he would come out with a wad of cash in his pocket in the spring, pay off the bills before he left, and go home, and have a nice winter, and then come back for the next summer. Mr. Stanley finally succeeded in selling the hotel in the late 1920s. He would have been now into his 70s. He sold it to a very interesting guy, a man named Roe Emery. -He did the Rocky Mountain tour with his tour buses, which he had a route that he did. And basically he was the Father of Colorado Tourism was the word for Mr. Emery. Mr. Stanley started it. Mr. Emery took it a step further for business. -Making money was tough. The hotel was only open, for the most part, for 90 days in the summer. Its subsequent owners had difficulty in keeping up the hotel from a deferred maintenance standpoint. And gradually over time, despite their best efforts, the hotel began to fall into disarray. -When Stanley sold the hotel, he would have been remiss to know that it would spend the next five decades struggling to stay open. But fate, or possibly the spirit of FO Stanley, intervened. And a famous author visited in 1974, changing the trajectory of the struggling hotel. -Stephen King, who we know is a resident of Maine, had grown up learning about FO Stanley and FO Stanley's hotel out here in Colorado. Oh, he didn't come for the ghosts. -Stephen King was kind of a struggling author. And he lived in Boulder for a while. And he came up right at the end of the tourist season in October of '74 and stayed at the Stanley. He happened to be there right when they were shutting down operations. And just watching a grand old hotel close down for the winter inspired him and got his juices flowing, as only Stephen King's can, that led to him writing The Shining, which was his first major best seller. -After Stephen King came, that we really got our panoply of ghosts here. -Estes Park has been a place to come and seek visions of spirits for thousands of years. Not a mile and a half from the Stanley Hotel is Old Man Mountain, a promontory knob that rests over the town of Estes Park. So in that sense, the Stanley Hotel was built in spirit central. -The whole valley is spiritual. The nature makes it spiritual. People came here to relax, enjoy life, and have a good time. That's why I think they come back. They had a really good time in the building. I always think of the hotel as this is the place where the spirits come to party. And then the history, since it's so old, the building holds energy like smoke on the walls. -We are literally built on the mountain. And it has a wonderful energy from the quartz crystals and the granite. So our theory is that the energy shoots up through the hotel, through here, because of the Northern Hemisphere, and then dissipates away and is set back into the mountain itself. -So here we are by the famous Room 217. It's known mostly by people because of Stephen King. He did spend one night here, September 30th, 1974. We had an explosion, sadly, in 1911. There had been a leak in the room with the gas, a backup system of acetylene-- white gas-- and I'm sure you know that it was colorless and odorless back then. So the chamber maid, Elizabeth Wilson, came through where the archway is right here, which was the door that day, with an open flame to light the gas lamp and boom, 10% of the Stanley is gone. She lived to tell the tale. She obviously had very serious injuries. There was no death that day. Took her 18 months to recover, but when she came back, she wanted to stay and stay and stay for the rest of her life. The most haunted hall is right in front of us. It's the long hall that walks past the bell tower and past Room 401. It is where the kids were. It was a big, open, cavernous attic. And that's when I tell people, go down there and see if you can reach the end. And when you do, I want to hear you say, red rum, red rum, red rum. And that's our fourth floor. -I have not yet seen a ghost here at the property. Do I believe there are some incredible coincidences? Absolutely. A lot of them that I can't explain-- does that mean I believe or see ghosts? I have not seen a ghost. But a lot of my guests have. And who am I to judge their eyes, what they've seen? 1995, we placed third in the bankruptcy auction at the Stanley Hotel. And yet, we still won. There was only one problem. We didn't have the money. And I didn't expect to win. We were the lowball bidder. So we raised $3.5 million, and the lender required us to show up with a half million dollars of equity. Well, I'm only, at that point, 29 years old. I didn't have a half million dollars. So my share of the equity came out to $57,000. I had $50,000 in checking as a bonus from my last job. And the last $7,000 came off my credit card, 100% without conditions. And so the morning after we win, we pay the check. And so I take a tour of the entire property, and I realize the magnitude of how much capital is going to be required to bring this up to a minimum level like any of our other hotels. -Because the Stanley Hotel campus has been recognized as a national register historic district by the National Park Service, the property was eligible for financial assistance from the State Historical fund, which supported preservation of the hotel, carriage house, and power plant. -The current owner right now is Mr. John Cullen. -I think I'm the seventh or eighth owner of the Stanley. -He also has that energy and vibe of Mr. Stanley. The creativity-- -I know I'm the longest one now at 21 years. FO Stanley only owned it for 17 or 16 or 17 years. -Mr. Stanley could see something and then create it. I see that in Mr. Cullen. -John Cullen and FO Stanley are alike in certain kind of ways. -I love the comparisons to somebody that nobody's ever met. -He has the same inventiveness. -I will take it as a compliment. -He's taken it to a new level. -There are certain similarities, I'll give you that. -Both of them have lavished their heart, their money, their soul over this physical plant and have tried to keep it up to the standards which a crown jewel ought to enjoy. And both of them have done that. -I do believe I am completing his vision. -This place holds artistic energy, creative energy. -But I've taken his vision to a population that wants it. And it's all in those same categories of wellness, arts, the national park, outdoors, recreational living, people coming together from all walks of life. Well, my future is actually his past. He just simply was 100 years ahead of the time. One of the great pillars of the Stanley Hotel has always been arts. FO Stanley built a concert hall. He played violin. And they had performances there every night. We started the Film Fest three, four years ago. The part about the Stanley Film Fest is that it became the precursor to the Stanley Film Center. And this 45,000 square foot building is going to be the world center of horror film and the whole film genre. -For well over 100 years, the Stanley Hotel has hosted visitors from around the world. The dedicated persistence of FO Stanley, and more recently John Cullen, ensured that this white colonial style hotel would be majestically preserved for generations to come. -The hotel gives you a sense of time travel to go back and see what it was like 110 years ago. -It's important to preserve the Stanley Hotel for the children of the future, for people to see the architecture of long time ago still holding up for today. -The legacy of FO Stanley is that he created more than just a hotel. He created a town, a community. And he's actually created a lifestyle. -The legacy is going on right now. People are still coming to his hotel. And it still is a healing place. People come up here to feel better, just like Mr. Stanley. To feel better, to just get stronger up here-- it'll be here when you and I are gone. And it will continue to serve people and make people happy, because people are happy when they come here. -I consider The Stanley my greatest achievement. I can't imagine how I'd ever be able to exceed that ever again in my life. I have been extraordinarily fortunate, starting right from the beginning. If there are spirits, I think they're happy with me. [music playing]
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Channel: Rocky Mountain PBS
Views: 345,097
Rating: 4.8459477 out of 5
Keywords: The Stanley Hotel, Stanley Hotel, Stanley Steamer, Stephen King, The Shining, Colorado, Estes Park, John Cullen, F. O. Stanley, Flora Stanley, Haunted, Spooky, Colorado Experience, PBS, RMPBS, Rocky Mountain PBS, History
Id: oSa1nUlrdbs
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 26min 39sec (1599 seconds)
Published: Fri Oct 28 2016
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