Il pollo più prezioso di Francia nel ristorante 3 stelle Michelin Georges Blanc con Matteo Rossatto

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Welcome to the white village. I'm Georges Blanc, Michelin star chef and I have a whole team with me. We are in the heart of Bresse. Bresse is an area that is above all a gastronomic region of France and here we obviously have an emblematic product called Bresse poultry. There are many recipes for preparing Bresse poultry, but I chose Brest poultry in a salt crust which we make in a typical way and is delicious. So Mathèo and the whole team, the whole brigade knows this recipe well and I think we will give you a demonstration that you will like. Mathèo, action! It's time to make a nice demonstration for our friends. Bye! Hi everyone, I'm Matteo Rossatto, I'm the chef of this restaurant, we're in Vonnas inside Georges Blanc's kitchen. A three Michelin Guide star restaurant for 40 years, 43 to be precise. And today, thanks to ItaliaSquisita, we are here to propose one of Monsieur Blanc's emblematic dishes, namely poulet en croûte de sel, meaning chicken in a crust of salt. The Bresse chicken is a chicken of a native breed which is the Gauloise. It is the only chicken in the world to have the PDO denomination. Great chefs like Paul Bocuse and George Blanc have managed to take it to the highest levels and make it known all over the world. What makes this poultry and this chicken in general special is mainly this fat under the skin that is very present. The meat is very white and very fat obviously, therefore unlike our Italian chickens or whatever we are used to eating normally, it melts in your mouth, meaning the meat is very very tender differently from a normal chicken, we're not used to this sensation in the mouth. My brigade is made up of approximately 30 guys, of which 25 are Italian. With me today there will be Andrea and Alessandro. Andrea is responsible for the viande, therefore of meats, while Alessandro is responsible for the sauces. He will take care of preparing precisely this sauce that will accompany our chicken: a Vin Jaune sauce. Here's Andrea as he flames it to remove the superfluous plumage that can be left, as later the skin will be eaten too, because then the skin will become very very melting. After that, we are going to make a small cut on the joint in order to remove the tendons and prevent the chicken from moving when it is sealed inside the crust too much, as in doing so it will split the crust during cooking. At this point, let's cut towards the neck area in order to remove the head. We can already see all the fat under the skin already coming out, especially from the part of the head - this very yellow fat, and without the use of cleavers, choppers, none of this, let's just follow along the anatomy of the chicken to remove the head, the final part of the legs and after that let's move on to the evisceration, therefore starting from the liver to the lungs, kidneys, everything. We already see, however, the fat that comes out is all good fat, all fat that we use in the restaurant because anyway we melt it and we use it as a flavoring in sauces such as, for example, the Vin Jaune sauce that we will be making later on. Once we have gutted it perfectly, Andrea proceeds to add salt and pepper in such a way that in the meantime, as we prepare the dough and we will then put it in the crust, it has a minimal marination. Then we're going to stuff it with some unpeeled garlic, a white onion cut into quarters, a generous bouquet of thyme of our vegetable garden. And then we make our job easier by inserting the legs inside the chicken and indeed create something round and very compact. Once the chicken is seasoned, it is placed in a refrigerating room for at least an hour, so that the meats become more compact and cold, so we avoid cooking a chicken in a crust at room temperature where it may end up being overcooked. While the chicken rests, we move to the pastry section to prepare the dough, which is probably the most important and crucial part of this recipe. As Monsieur Blanc anticipated, this is not a town, but let's say a village. This is precisely why it is nicknamed Blanc Village by gourmand travelers. Here are indeed as well as gastronomic restaurant, Relais Chateau, an area where you can have petit déj, meaning breakfast, a boulangerie that makes bread both for retail and for us at the restaurant and after that we have the pastry side, where are we going now. A laboratory that is detached from the restaurant where the boys take care of making all of the preparation of the day and after which which they move with us in the kitchen for the service. Let's now start the preparation of the salt crust. So let's start placing all of the ingredients in the stand mixer. We have 3.2 kg of salt, 2.5 kg flour and our powders: thyme, rosemary and chopped sage. Let's start the mixer at a speed that is fairly low and insert the yolks in various steps. Let the mixer run for about a couple of minutes and let's start mixing in a little more warm water in order to obtain the consistency of the dough that we want. We must obtain a dough that is not too hard and not too soft to prevent it from opening during the cooking later. We're moving it onto the marble bench, we wrap it in film and let it rest for a moment and then we are ready to go to the kitchen to stretch it out as if it were a fresh pasta to then cover the chicken. We're back in the kitchen and now we're going to take the film off the dough, which in the meantime has rested in the refrigerator and has slightly stiffened, so it became a little harder. We're dividing it in half. As you can see, after resting the dough is nice and soft and you can roll it out more easily and this will make it easier for us, especially during the phase in which we cover the chicken to create a chamber as closed as possible, since the technique of this chicken crust is to try and seal as much as possible the chicken so that there are no air drafts because they will bring to uneven cooking of the chicken. Then Andrea, as we can see, rolled out the dough to a thickness of about 2 cm, quite thick and he's rolling it onto the rolling pin. And we're giving it the first shape, let's say the base, for it to take the dimensions of the pan where the chicken will then be placed. You can see how the dough remains quite moist and malleable, and above all it doesn't have holes, it has no cracks. This is essential for this preparation, especially for the beginning. Now let's cut it approximately to the size of the pan. Once our chicken has rested well and it became compact again and very cold, we're going to place it in the center of the dough that we have just rolled out and Andrea is going to put underneath the chicken two small supports that will serve an aesthetic purpose, therefore to hold the chicken a bit more upright and then above all to prevent it during the cooking phase to become limp and break the sides of the salt crust. We are going to sprinkle a little yolk mixed with some cream to help the dough cover that we are going to add now to adhere perfectly, following the same principle of a fresh pasta. And then we will cover it, trying to eliminate as much as possible the air between the chicken and the dough. This is a fundamental part for the success of this recipe. As you see, Andrea uses his fingers to plug with other pieces of dough some small holes that may happen with the dough, so he's using small patches. Then he's using his hands to make the dough stick to the chicken as much as possible. See how, having placed the dough correctly, we can see the shape of the chicken perfectly, therefore this means that there is very little air inside and therefore the cooking will be homogeneous and this chamber will form, basically a natural vacuum which will allow the chicken to cook evenly throughout. Now Andrea will define the crust with a knife and remove all of the smudges. We don't want a squared shape, but a rather rounded shape, so we'll give it this pretty oval shape. Once we have given the shape to our salt crust, let's start with the first decoration, so let's create these waves by helping ourselves with the tip of the knife. Meanwhile I take care of the decorations that will then embellish our volaille en croûte de sel. We mainly use these two shapes, which are a leaf and this wheel. We will only make two wheels because we will only put them at the two ends of the chicken, while on the other hand, as regards the leaves, they will completely cover almost the entire surface of the crust. Now Andrea, always with the help of a little yolk, which allows him to make the shapes perfectly adhere to the dough, will decorate the whole surface of the crust. We always start from the outside towards the part of the legs and then move towards the front part which in any case is the part that will come in front of the customer, so it needs to be visually more scenic and more pronounced. Here we also need to give it a three-dimensional shape. Once we have decorated all our chicken crust, the last step before going to the baking is indeed the polishing. Andrea is using a classic sprayer with yolk and cream inside to care for the complete polishing of our chicken, very very generously. As you can see, the amount of yolk and cream that we are going to spray is really very abundant, because it really needs to soak in and enter inside the of the crust, inside the dough and then especially with a brush, he's removing the excesses where perhaps they formed too thick of a layer of egg. Before cooking, it is very important to let it rest in the fridge so that the yolk becomes compact and dries on the dough. And now it's time to place it in the oven at 170°C for about 2 hours. It always depends depends on the size of the chicken. This was a chicken of about 2 kg, so more or less one hour per kg. From the moment the chicken is cooking, we focus on another fundamental point of this dish, which is the sauce. This is a historical sauce of Maison Blanc - we're talking about the Vin Jaune sauce. The base is this PDO butter from Bresse. We start with abundant butter. Then we add some very finely chopped shallots. We add a large generous dose of salt and pepper. Salt and pepper -it is essential to add them at the beginning in such a way as to flavor our base immediately and then not have a final product where it could perhaps be bland. The pepper is obviously white. Let's gently simmer these shallots until we almost get a compote, so they must be really tender, almost caramelised. They must stick for several times to the bottom of the casserole and be grated in such a way to get all the juices, all of the part that get caramelized. The reason why in all the sauces that make we favor the shallot only, it is for this sweetness/acidity and especially the caramelisation, because it is much richer in sugars much more than an onion. Here, after having stewed the shallot, we are ready to start with the first reductions, because in any case it is a sauce made of reductions of various alcohols. So let's start indeed with Vin Jaune. Vin Jaune is a wine from the Jura Coast. It is amber in color, because it has the characteristic of being matured after fermentation for 6 years inside oak barrels. Once we add the Vin Jaune, we let it come to a light boil and the moment the alcoholic part will have evaporated, the wine is mixed well with the stewed shallot and we can add some Porto or Madeira, which however does not cover the aroma of the wine but rather integrate the complexity that belongs to this sauce. Let's bring the sauce to a light boil and let's take advantage of this time to remove all the impurities that come to the surface. It can be impurity of the wine, it can be a part of fat from the butter which comes to the surface and let's take advantage of this time in the meantime as it starts to boil and with a blowtorch, we flambé so that the alcohol part evaporates as fast as possible. In this first phase, it is important that Alessandro always eliminates all the impurities, first and foremost because they could stick to the edges and therefore burn in the moment the sauce catches fire and is flambéed and then using a wooden spoon to scratch and detach parts which could get stuck to the casserole to prevent them from burning, because in any case the temperature is now very very high and there would be a risk to then having the entire product thrown away. This is a very, very delicate phase. It's not just about lighting the torch and lit up a fire, but it's the phase in which the sauce needs to be kept under closer scrutiny during preparation. Once all the alcoholic part has evaporated, let's season with a melange of peppers in which we have pink pepper, black pepper, white pepper, therefore a mix of peppers, with plenty of unpeeled garlic because we always need garlic and shallot anyway. Thyme, fresh thyme always from our garden, juniper berries, cloves, dry bay leaves. We give it a stir so that when we go into the oven all the parts we placed inside do not burn. Once the sauce is ready, Alessandro is placing the casserole in the oven at 160°C for an hour and in the meantime we wait for the chicken to finish cooking on the other side. After the sauce comes out of the oven, we let it cool and filtered it and this is the consistency, so it stays quite liquid. And we need to flavor it though, because right now it has still a fairly bland taste. So all the parts that we are going to add inside are precisely the veal marrow, to give it this bright shiny note, almost like a mirror, and then we're going to flavor it by giving it a part that recalls the Bresse chicken, so we have some fat from the chicken, the subcutaneous fat that we melted then cooled and we're using it as if it were our clarified butter, and then all of the fat that comes to the surface from the fois gras terrines. So here at the restaurant when we make these terrines that are left to rest in the fridge and cool down - all the fat that surfaces the boys collect it completely and we use it as a natural flavoring inside the sauces. We let the ingredients we put inside the sauce dissolve perfectly, then Alessandro will filter it to eliminate any impurities or sediments that may also be there because what we want is a very smooth sauce. So once the sauce reaches the consistency, we are going to add it inside these copper serving gravy boats. On the bottom we add a little walnut oil which greatly reflects the flavors and the aromas of the Vin Jaune that we used as the starting alcohol, as the main ingredient of this sauce and then it is served in the dining room by the maitre. And after two hours, the salt crust is ready to be taken out of the oven. I would say it turned out very well this time! - Thank you. - Now let it rest for about 10 minutes and then it is ready to be served. In the meantime let's take advantage of this time to compose the dish which will then be the side to our chicken. So we start from a tamarind cream cooked in orange juice, a tartlet that at the base has a chestnut pastry, a vegetable ratatouille and a butternut pumpkin glazed with all the scraps from the pumpkin and whipped in butter to give this shine to the rose. Then we have an apricot stuffed with stewed and candied onion that recalls the shape of a classic Italian 'maritozzo', but in this case a savory one. A confit garlic, therefore a garlic cooked in clarified butter, a potato puff pastry that, again, recalls the classic Neapolitan 'sfogliatella', in this case in a savory version, stuffed with a brunoise of vegetables and black truffle and to finish a ???Cron, this tuber cooked entirely in Vin Jaune sauce, glazed with this sauce that we made before together which gives sweetness and shine to the vegetables. We have reached the final of this very long preparation. Andrea now with simple clarified butter is going to polish the crust, an aesthetic factor precisely in such a way that as soon as it is opened in front of the customer, it has this shine straight away which in any case is useful to enhance all the work that went into achieving this finished product. And now we cover it and we're ready to move to the dining room. Once the crust has been removed, the chicken is portioned by our hotel maitres and served on serving plates with the various garnishes we have explained. They finish the dish with this abundant pour of Vin Jaune sauce so that you can mop up your plate after finishing the dish. And that's all! We have brought you inside our kitchen in the white village, showing you one of, or perhaps the most emblematic preparation of this restaurant, by this great chef who nevertheless made and continues to make culinary history in France. Special thanks to ItaliaSquisita, to the whole brigade of Georges Blanc, to monsieur Blanc. I'll wait for you in Vonnas and see you soon, à bientôt, ciao!
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Channel: Italia Squisita
Views: 655,979
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: pollo di bresse, bresse chicken, Poulet de Bresse, chef 3 étoiles Michelin, chef 3 stelle michelin, 3 michelin stars, georges balnc, pollo al fornoroast chiecken, legendary chicken en crust, pollo in crosta, poulet en croûte, cucina francese, french haute cousine, most exepensive chicken, la volaille plus precieuse, how to cook bresse chicken, come fare il pollo di bresse, french chef cookinf chicken, alta cucina francese, itlaiasquisita, berkel, salse madri
Id: edE32Dt-Iy0
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 26min 22sec (1582 seconds)
Published: Fri Apr 05 2024
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