The Middle of Nowhere - Main Street, Wyoming

Video Statistics and Information

Video
Captions Word Cloud
Reddit Comments
Captions
- [Announcer] Your support helps us bring you programs you love. Go to wyomingpbs.org, click on support and become a sustaining member or an annual member. It's easy and secure. Thank you. - [Narrator] To the airline passenger, far above, looking down, it's the empty quarter. To tourists driving through, - [Resident] It's a brutal environment. - [Narrator] And they ask each other, - [Resident] How in the world could anybody ever survive here? - [Narrator] But the people who know it, say, - [Resident] Every place is somebody's piece of heaven. - [Narrator] Even in the middle of nowhere. ♪ You take your troubles with you ♪ But maybe I can feel brand new again ♪ Oh, across the line (somber guitar music) - [Narrator] Just on the eastern side of the Continental Divide, where the Sweetwater River snakes across the high prairie toward the North Platte River, few travelers stop. Today, they may be driving on to Yellowstone. 150 years ago, they were on the trail to Oregon. And centuries earlier, Native Americans were hunting bison and collecting wild plants with an eye on the changeable weather ready to move on. - Wyoming was always known for the harshness of its climate and the difficulty of establishing a settlement here compared to an awful lot of the rest of the country. To a lot of people, Wyoming was a place you passed through. - [Narrator] But the people who traveled through, and some who held on a while, left a lot of history behind. Layer upon layer, like the geology that underlies this rugged surface. And so from Independence Rock, west along the Sweetwater River, through Devil's Gate, we peel back a few of those layers. - The Mormon pioneers, the Oregon pioneers, the California pioneers, the Pony Express, the freighters, the military presence, the mail stations, the mountaineers. And even back to the Native Americans, because it's such a dramatic story, and such a multi-layered story. - Really, there's so much history here. So many different versions competing with each other, some of them often quite different that it gets to be a matter of who gets to tell the story. - [Narrator] It takes a special eye to see what's embedded in this landscape. And one place to look for its stories is atop that pioneer landmark, Independence Rock. - I love being up here, because so many times and people seem simultaneous. So much history is visible from this single spot. The interesting thing about this particular piece of land out here is that it holds so many stories that when you look at the country around here it's so easy to imagine them, because the country is so physically unchanged. (peaceful guitar music) - [Narrator] The Oregon Trail, it's become an epic myth of the American West. Three major western trails, the Oregon, the California, the Mormon, braided together here along the Sweetwater River. And the immigrants trekked bravely into more weather, more altitude, more risks, and fewer options. - Virtually every pioneer that headed west in the 19th century came right through that gap right there. And that number is somewhere in the neighborhood of 350 to 500,000 immigrants came right through that gap. - That's exactly what was going on in 1850, they were passing through. We passed through it in an hour and a half, and they passed through it anywhere from a week to three weeks. So it's a little different passage. - When you leave the river, the Missouri River, the Mississippi River and go clear across the country, and when you get to Independence Rock and start up to Sweetwater, why everything changes. I mean it's a whole different story. One of the things I always run into was how bad the mosquitoes was on the Sweetwater. I mean you had them mosquitoes all the way up to Sweetwater. When we retraced the Oregon Trail in '93, we had tornadoes, we had two hailstorms. We had a hailstorm in Lisco, Nebraska that torn up the canvas on our wagons. So we experienced, that year, what maybe they might've went through. - [Interviewer] Did you bury anybody along the trail? - [Ben] No, we didn't bury anybody. - [Narrator] You carved your message, and you took aim at the landmarks ahead. Devil's Gate, Split Rock, Independence Rock. - And on that rock, Independence Rock, you can still come about as close to history as it's possible to come. Because here, you will find the messages of the travelers still alive in the stone. All right, here, look at this. It says, "H.P. Bemiss, July 4, 1850." The generally accepted wisdom was that if you were an immigrant with your party and you were at Independence Rock by the 4th of July, that means you had plenty of time to get over the Cascade Range into the Willamette Valley of Oregon or over the Sierras into the central valleys of California before those mountains filled up with snow. So that's a good thing, this guy was right on time. - And they came through a very harsh, really a terrible part of the trail with very poor water, very poor livestock forage. And now they've arrived here in the Sweetwater Valley, they've got a wonderful water source, they've got excellent sources of livestock forage. This is where they sort of recruited or replenished their reserve, replenish the strength of their livestock and were able then to continue successfully west toward Oregon or California or wherever it was they were going. (pleasant guitar music) - [Narrator] But not every trip through this gap was successful. In 1856, a group of impoverished Mormons from England made the trek to Salt Lake the hard way. - The problem was that many of the converts didn't have the money to come to America and buy a wagon and buy a team and come to Salt Lake City. Brigham Young had the idea and dream of handcarts which cut the price one-seventh or so. They wanted to come so badly that two of the companies, one of which was the Martin company, left late in the year. Everything went wrong. They went to Iowa City by railroad from New York, it was too late in the year, no handcarts. They had to make their handcarts. They didn't have the lumber for them, so they had to make them out of green lumber. You can imagine what happened when they got up on the prairies, the dry prairies with that green lumber handcart. So just everything went wrong, Murphy's Law, went wrong. - [Narrator] Even in today's more comfortable world, this has been a difficult area to travel. It's been hard to find motel beds, descriptive markers or museums. But that began to change when The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints decided to take on a bigger role in protecting and explaining the sites important to Mormons, including the one right next to Devil's Gate, Martin's Cove. - The first blizzard hit them as they crossed the North Platte for the last time. It was cold, and the water was freezing, and the ice in the water. It took them all day to cross with those carts. Now, you're talking about almost 600 people here. When they got to the other side, they were exhausted, and frozen, and cold. They got just about a half a mile up from the river, and that's as far as they could go. Their tents were frozen. Most of them just crawled under the canvas for the night to get out of the storm. In the morning, 13 people were dead from exhaustion. - For years, there was a silence that surrounded the handcart experience. And people didn't talk about it, it was very hush. It was one of those sad things that they wanted to forget. It was a thing, I think, that they worried if they talked about they would be seen as condemning the experience. And so it just was not talked about at the time. - This story, for a long time, had not received a lot of attention outside of certain circles. Latter-day Saints, Western historians. Part of that, I think, involves the idea that sometimes we need heroes and we need good stories. And there are some great elements in this story. - I first visited Martin's Cove when I was six years old and I had always been interested in handcart people, because my great-grandfather, Nelson P. Ripson was a handcart pioneer. I was asked in 1992 to negotiate an easement across some land into Martin's Cove by the church. And, perhaps buying the ranch, because you think of the different symbols of the LDS church you think of the Salt Lake temple spires. And another symbol is the handcart, because it's the only group that ever used a handcart in a transcontinental migration. - [Narrator] Though the Martin's Cove site can be reached through the LDS visitors' center, it's on public land, and there has been some tension between the church and the U.S. Bureau of Land Management about interpreting the history on site. Historians express concern about romanticizing the handcart story. And even the location is open to debate among some. - President of the Mormon Church and another man, George Albert Smith, who later became the President of the Mormon Church, and in 1931, Smith went, after visiting Devil's Gate and visiting Independence Rock, went back to Salt Lake City and told the Deseret News he had found Martin's Cove, he had found the spot where the suffering handcart pioneers had pulled up out of the weather and died, a lot of them. And so every since then, that sort of became the official spot largely really, because George Albert Smith said so. - You know, a lot of people view that there is maybe a conflict between the sacred and the historically accurate. I've discovered that Latter-day Saints have little to worry about their history and to be concerned about it. And these fit very nicely together. We believe that this is the restored church on the earth, and as a result, we believe that if God is involved, there really is not a controversy. (upbeat western music) Other kinds of travelers were also deepening the ruts running west, the kind who wrote stories, drew maps, and took pictures, exploring the new territories, and sending reports back to the rest of the world. And once again, they often came through this same patch of land by Independence Rock in the Sweetwater Valley. - People have been coming by here and writing about it for almost 200 years. Explorers like John C. Fremont kept journals and wrote books about it that became enormously popular. And there are also a lot of writers who came by here, people like, Richard Burton, English travel writer and explorer of East Africa. He was dashing through here in 1860 by stagecoach on his way to Salt Lake City to interview Brigham Young in what he called the Mecca of the Mormons. Other people who came through here were the artist Alfred Jacob Miller who was traveling with the English sportsman and gentleman Scottish sportsman, William John Stewart in the 1830s. Scientists came by, like Ferdinand V. Hayden with the Hayden Survey after the Civil War. A remarkable landscape photographer named William Henry Jackson took pictures here. So all these things, all these people stopped here, wrote about it, wrote down what they were thinking about. And so we have this remarkable record of what was going on. Right over here, next to the Sweetwater River just on the far side of it, is the little meadow where the Hayden Survey camped in 1870. We can see the meanders of the river itself here going on down towards the east and past Finder Reservoir and the North Platte River. And here, in Jackson's picture, look how sandy the river is as it winds past these bars, and how much grassier the banks are now. These rivers change a lot over time just like everything else around here. They were government scientists, they weren't surveyors in the way we think of a land surveyor now. But they were a variety of a kind of scientist, and they were really, Congress sent them out here because they wanted them to investigate the land and to map the land, but also to find out what was exploitable. To find the minerals, and to find the crop possibilities of the West. - [Narrator] And one place in the valley which never failed to catch the eye of artists or move the pen of writers, was Devil's Gate. - This is such a dramatic spot that a woman named Sarah Sutton, who came through here in 1854, would use the word sublime and talk about how these Rocky Mountains really were rocky especially compared to the hills of Ohio where she was from. Artists painted the spot. Alfred Jacob Miller painted great pictures of Devil's Gate here in the 1830s. William Henry Jackson also was very taken with this spot. It was a splendid and romantic site at the time when it was a whole vocabulary of the dramatic, the sublime, and the picturesque to talk about landscape and how we looked at it. This place right here was one of the centers of that feeling because it showed God and nature. - [Narrator] But while the writers and artists found beauty, the surveyors found value. And soon, the nomadic Indians, and immigrants, and traders would be replaced by people ready to stake a claim in the middle of nowhere. (somber music) It's commonly said, and largely true, that the Sweetwater Valley is a place people pass through without putting down roots, then and now. - The reason that's true is nobody wanted it. If somebody wanted it, they would've homesteaded it. And so it's still 95 percent BLM. - [Narrator] But in the 1870s, somebody did want it, because what they saw was quite different from what the immigrants saw, trudging by. - After the Transcontinental Railroad was completed in 1869, travel on the old Oregon Trail route up the North Platte and up to Sweetwater to the Continental Divide, pretty much ceased altogether. So what had been a really heavily traveled route with lots of stock and people going by year after year, eating up all the grass and driving away all the game. By the mid-1870s, the valley was again lush with grass and full of game. And there not very many white people there. - [Narrator] An exception was Tom Sun. - My great-grandfather, Tom Sun, he had run away when he was 11 years old. Somehow, been in the Civil War and went with trappers and stuff and found his way where they were hunters for the UP Railroad at Fort Steele. After the railroad went over, I mean one boom left and another one had come and they'd kind of looked at the gold and then, you know, what else could you do with land in those days. And so livestock was the reason for probably stayed, and he went into the cattle business. - Well, the ranching era began here in the Sweetwater Valley when the original Tom Sun settled here in 1872, and that basically was the, sort of, official, if you will, beginning of the ranching era. - [Narrator] At that time, the government was practically giving away land in the West, beginning with the Homestead Act. - A variety of other ways too, there was the Desert Land Act, under which you could get a whole section. That's how Tom Sun first got his section at Devil's Gate. - [Narrator] But it was still harsh country that didn't give up a living easily. - Well, if you look back, take Tom Sun Sr.'s, what we call today diversified. There's livestock, he was in gold mining, gold claims, and also, as we would look at it, a modern-day outfitter. People would come in from Europe or Persia and around to the railroad to Rawlins and they would pick them up and take them on these hunting trips from all over Central Wyoming. - [Narrator] Gradually, the valley was filling in with settlers. - The ranches were a community. You could see the Upper Sweetwater was kind of a community, and then you take, say between Sweetwater Station to Split Rock was kind of a community. And then from Split Rock on down to Pathfinder was another community. But in essence, the whole Sweetwater was one large community. I think you stood up for one another. You helped one another with the brandings or whatever events you had coming on for entertainment. They were close, so they helped. You've got to realize, at any time, even today, you're a long ways away from any communities. The communities now have gotten bigger, but in the old days the communities had to be pretty close just to accomplish what you wanted to do. (pleasant guitar music) - [Narrator] Not everyone in the valley was considered part of that community. Not Jim Averill and Ella Watson, who would later be immortalized as Cattle Kate. They were newcomers in the 1880s, when old-timers had been there not much more than a decade. - In the open range cattle business, there were no fences between the different holdings. The ranches could control. Tom Sun owned one section, one square mile of land at Devil's Gate, and yet his cattle ranged on over many tens of thousands of acres. Jim Averill was a storekeeper. He was with middle-class aspirations, landing in the middle of and along the borders of these large ranches. Averill had been public about his opinions about the whole land-use system. By the spring of 1886, Averill had been joined at his store by a woman named Ella Watson from Kansas. The woman seems to have been a strong-minded person and a strong looking person. The one picture you have of her that really shows her stature shows a fairly tall, broad-shouldered woman of some size and heft. So she wasn't a small prairie flower. - [Narrator] There were many issues between the open range ranchers and the small homesteaders. There were also suspicious questions about how Ella Watson had acquired some of her cattle. One day after spring roundup, the big ranchers came and collected Averill and Watson at gunpoint. - Right up here, they headed to this gulch right up here is where Ella Watson and Jim Averill were hanged in the summer of 1889. They were under a long limb of a pitch pine tree, you can still find this tree. It's standing on a big rock, there they are, there's Watson and Averill. Averill already has a lariat around his neck. The woman is not cooperating. They're still arguing and yelling. She won't keep her head still for them to get the rope around her neck. - [Narrator] A friend of Ella Watson's witnessed all this and tried to intervene. (gunshot) But was chased off by the ranchers' rifles. Those who saw the lynching through to the end never talked and no charges were brought. - It was never discussed within the family. A lot of people have written about it in books or this or that. And I'm not sure anybody has found the real story the truth. But you have to realize the people that were allegedly involved were business people. They just didn't wake up one morning and says, "Let's go hang a couple of people." Nobody has ever said or come up with the answer to me why did it happen. I mean, what brought these people to do it. They were all law-abiding people. What caused them to do that, I don't want to make light on the situation, because it was, if they did do it, it was a terrible action. - But the moral overreaching of power is what's really important about that story. THere's lots of conflicts in the West, and lots of conflicts in the world, but most of them don't end in lynchings. (gentle banjo music) - [Narrator] Eventually, the Sun family would make another business decision. They had been settled in the Sweetwater Valley for an incredibly long time by non-Indian standards, since 1872. - The Sun family was here at Devil's Gate until 1997 when they sold their core properties here to the LDS church. - When you get so many members in a family, you get that difference in business philosophies. - [Narrator] Those differences were accentuated when one branch of the family sold its share, the old Hub and Spoke Ranch to the Mormon church. - It was a very, very difficult decision for all of the Suns to sell the ranch. This was their heritage. They'd been here a long time and it was very difficult for them to do. - But it could've went to development. It could've went to Walt Disney. It could've went to a lot of other places, and so until you're in their boots, how can you say? - [Narrator] And so, another of the stories that are layered in this landscape begins to fade, the story of ranching, and the Sun Family's long presence here. Where so much happened, and so little is evident, certain stories overshadow the more layered, complex history. Today, it's the Mormon Church at Martin's Cove, but they're not the first to put their stamp on the past. In the 1930s, it was the Boy Scouts and the Oregon Trail aficionados holding a gala gather at Independence Rock. - There was a didactic streak in the organization at that event, I think. It was pretty clear that the organizers wanted those Boy Scouts to learn an inspirational version of American history. I do think, though, that there is such a wonderful mix of history here that it would be nice if there were some kind of preservation going on here that really felt loyal to that mix more than to any one story, whether it's the lynching story, or the Martin's Cove story, or any 10 or 50 other stories. Some way to tell them simultaneously, and what they all had to do with each other would be good. - We have 100,000 people a summer, and they're coming here to experience that history that's in this valley. Western history is of worldwide interest. Western culture is of worldwide interest. There is a fly fishing, a Wyoming fly fishing shop in Paris. - What really happened is important, and the reason it's important is so we can learn from it. If we have it wrong, then we're learning the wrong things. If we have it right, then we can think clearly and honestly about the decisions people made in difficult times and to see if maybe we could've made better ones. - If I could have my way, the whole Sweetwater Valley, in fact, the whole Oregon-California-Mormon Trail would be a national park, so that we could love and understand the entire history. (gentle guitar music)
Info
Channel: Wyoming PBS
Views: 60,286
Rating: 4.8762889 out of 5
Keywords: sweetwater valley, independence rock, devils gate, Tom Rea, Mormom, Wyoming, WyomingPBS
Id: gNHrUj9qZbs
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 27min 2sec (1622 seconds)
Published: Mon Jun 19 2017
Related Videos
Note
Please note that this website is currently a work in progress! Lots of interesting data and statistics to come.