The Latest Miniature Machine Gets More Parts !!

first piece i'm going after this week is the tray for this little machine going to run a file across the bottom just see how flat it really is that's not too bad coarse file be careful the file doesn't clog up it'll put dig marks in very soft material then you have to remove three times as much material to get the dig marks out so take care of that some say chalk in the file is a good idea i cleaned up the edges of the tray on the belt sander now i'm going to clean up the back face with emery laying flat on the bandsaw table it's a great place to do this preliminary filing sanding is done bottom's clean enough for the application and occasionally too shiny is not a good thing there is a small divot in the tray right here just you know it's not a game changer not at all this is perfectly fine just the way it is blasted you probably wouldn't even notice but i'm going to set it up in the middle and i'm going to deck the inside of this off and i'm going to make that go away because it's just got to be that way all right off to the mill and this is one of those times where you need to make sure that when you turn your dial you turn it in the right direction when you're up against that wall you turn it the wrong way that part is toast let's do it using an end mill that has a diameter that will match the internal corners of this tray first thing i'm going to do is set the perimeter and i'm going to bump it in until it just takes a little bit off the edge and you can see the chip start to flow there zero the digital write the number on the vise face so i have something to read those values are what my digital is reflecting when that cutter is in position for that face makes it a lot easier it's just like connect the dots and by adjusting the depth of the cut i can make any inclusions that are present go away that was a very superficial 10 000 steep cut and it appears to have done the job i'm going to roll it up make another pass move it in slowly and deck the entire inside of that out re-blast it my areas of concern on this little tray are the bottom the sides are really clean so the bottom is what i'm looking at and that red line across the back right there if there's any red left over after that pass i know that it's still low which it is so very slightly i'm going to start coming up with the table until that red goes away i know i have a clean surface and then back and forth across the field okay guys four flute cutters gummy material and a lack of lubrication never a good combo a little bit larger diameter cutter allows me to go a little bit faster and the red that you see in the back was strictly to set the height of the new cutter i ran some memory over the bottom of this put it back in the blaster and any inclusions are now gone very pleased with the way that looks next piece in the assembly is a very small rod with two journals turned on each end now since it's easier to size an od than it is to size an id this particular assembly gets little knobs pressed on either end of this rod so what i'm going to do is i'm going to make those knobs first check the size of the hole and then i will size this rod accordingly and i think that here in a second you're going to see why i'm going to do the rod second all right so let's just change this material out let's put a little bit bigger material in the machine make a couple collars and turn some journals on the end of this part yep now you know why starting off with 1 8th diameter brass facing operation to clean it up drill it pushing through about a this is an o 47 drill it's about 1.2 1.3 millimeters forgive me if i'm off on that one trying to go deep enough to get two parts out of this and i'll extend the material here in a second to turn the od got to get down to a 100 which is what's at 2.5 millimeters just under an eighth of an inch check it a couple times get it nice and clean come back in with some polishing compound and shine it up so that it's ready for parting and final application i know the relationship between the facing tool and the parting tool so just add my number to the dro value file it and part it off looks like i might have missed that by just a hair for two pieces i eyeballed it i shouldn't have done that i guess i'm about 15 000 shy that is a very tiny piece you can see it clinging to the tip of my retriever here another gift from a subscriber i really like this thing it's coming out really handy there you go another rinse and repeat one more piece we're done and now we'll face off and turn the journals on the end of the smaller rod that i showed you initially be extremely careful if you have material this small extended as its tendency to walk up and over the tool is really increased so stay as close to the collar as you can and you probably won't have that problem i'm going to put a clean up cut on it right here and take it back out check the overall length and put it back in the machine for final sizing and you'll see it hangs out a little bit more than it should which is why i'm going to be very delicate when i do these little nibbles on the end to bring it into the overall length any big cut in that material would for sure walk up over the top of that tool and destroy the part be very careful and for anybody curious as to exactly what i used to polish up this brass this is called blue magic i really like it and i got it at an auto parts store local to my house next piece in line is a splined material so i'm holding it very gently as not to distort the teeth facing off the one end drill and tap it for a very small 080 screw that's going to go in there and that's about a 1.5 millimeter diameter screw i know 80 i think is o62 and cross and the tap is very delicate so if you're using a tap like that in brass just be careful and make sure that there's lubricant on it we know what happens when gummy material hits small cutters spring-loaded tap guide uh neural thumb wheel on the tap gives you great feedback on the small threads this is an accelerated footage so i'm not driving it in that fast that's for sure but you can actually feel that tap flex when you use a little wheel like this if you don't have one make one i made mine and i've used them a million times next piece in line is a simple decorative washer straight forward face it off drill it through hole chamfer clean it up done hey guys a quick little shop gem for you here one of those days you get up and your brain just isn't firing on all eight cylinders i know it happens make sure if you're using a digital caliper of course set it to zero dial it out to the length of the part that you want let's say i want my part one inch 625 come on there you go oop and we'll get there hang on speaking of days when your brain is not firing on all cylinders right all right i want my part 18626 now so i'm going to zero this out close it and make sure you have the reading that you're looking for one in 626 okay 18626 is now the standard when you lay your part in your caliper and close it it tells you how much material has to come off that part to achieve that overall length let the tool do the work for you it's kind of what tools are for right calipers no different shopjim put that one in your box next piece is rather small and could be fussy but i'm going to do it without ever touching an edge finder or an indicator or anything let's see the part is going to look a lot like this it is half inch 3 8. and for you metric guys that is just about 10 millimeters and this is about 25.4 this is 1.5 millimeters thick 0.60 thick it is relatively small there is a hole in each corner and just by knowing the size of the end mill that i'm going to start this piece with i can do the entire part without ever having touched anything to find out where i'm at it's a nice technique requires a couple of sacrificial aluminum parts i think you may have seen me do this before well let's put the camera over on the mill do this entire part without ever touching anything well i mean you got to touch the part of course but here we go let's do it okay i'm back the real part it's about that big tiny old piece you could mess around with this you can do the whole thing in one shot i'm going to do the whole thing in one shot might be a couple of minutes worth of setup time but it's going to save the aggravation i am doing this part with a 156 end mill half of that is 0.78 it's about two millimeters so it's about a four millimeter diameter two millimeter radius i'm going to try to keep this real time so you get an idea for how fast it is or isn't cutters in the machine i'm going to bring the end mill down below the surface of the jaw and probably the thickness of the part as well this is very important i guess i'm about 200 into the into the vise jaws about five millimeters stop this set here's my sacrificial aluminum plates finished on one side all cut on the other popping them in the center spacer in between the parts make sure the part is registered which it is first thing i'm going to do is cut a rail across the back here zero out my digital so i now have a nice little shelf for the part to sit on i'm going to move the cutter let's get it in camera here you can see it i'm going to move the cutter back the radius of the cutter the 078 and i'm going to zero my digital zero before you move of course all right effectively i now know that this surface right here is machine zero part zero whatever i don't need an edge finder now to find the back of the part i just established a banking surface i'm going to come forward and i'm going to cut a ledge on the front of this too it doesn't matter how far it is between the front and rear or the rear in the front just cut another ledge basically the same size as this one on this part here reason being when you take this spacer out this is going to move in so dimensionally it's not critical at all where this is nothing else needs to be done to the digital at this time clean everything off take the spacer out and put a spring between these two plates if i was just doing this without narrating it i'd be done by now a little coil spray this is strictly a tool bit okay parts now move just like a regular movable vise would dropping the rough blank down onto the shelf pinch it close the vise let's get a better look at that for you [Music] i think you can see now why the shelf height is important if the shelf height were above the back jaw when you closed it these things would cantilever out and close up at the bottom and wouldn't hold let's make a little bit of room on that start this piece so so now i'm going to drop the cutter down into the part and i'm going to smooth off one side just one so so shhh when you have successfully cut one side of the part well i wish i could get a better angle on that for you but it is really close in there hang on a second maybe maybe there you go when you've successfully cut one face on the part shift the table the full diameter of the cutter i'm going to move the cutter in this direction 156. zero out the digital again now the outside of the cutter is your is your zero point however much you move the table is how big this part is going to be let me slip it out of gear here for a second and drop the cutter down close to the surface of the piece so you can see this the edge of the cutter is equal to the edge of the part now no matter what i do with the table i can keep track of how big this part is without ever measuring it i'm going to go for 375 on the shift just under 10 millimeters this position right here i'll cut the other side of this part and i will have the width of the part without ever measuring it and i'll also have a zero zero point in the back and i'll show you how i'm gonna do that i have to go back to the beginning to do that but we're gonna do it all right i'm gonna nibble away at this one we know now that this back face that i milled in and reset the digital is a zero face right where the cutter is right now is also a zero face but i like my zero to the back left corner so i'm going to go back to where i was before when i shift this cutter 375 to the left it should end up true to this face right here let's move over 375 there you go that is the initial shift from when i machine this side i'm going to go back to my 078 which is the radius of the tool beyond and i always do my dials clockwise digital or no digital i always finish clockwise when i can okay now the center of that cutter is over the edge of that part zero the digital one more time when i go to zero zero on my digital the cutter will be exactly over the back left corner which it is and now i can do my whole pattern without ever touching anything without ever measuring anything that part is cut to size and the zero zero is already established let's put the drill chuck in there pop the holes in and get it done part is in the vise the drill chuck is in the machine all right i'm over the back left corner of this part i'm going to switch over to the incremental mode on my digital this is a symmetrical hole pattern so i'm going to move it and re-zero my indicator or my digital on the back left hole each of these holes is o62 about a millimeter and a half off that face that sounds good to me [Music] so [Music] wow ah quick look at the part symmetry is good size is good shine it up all i did was put some polishing compound on a piece of cardboard rub this on a piece of very fine embryo and rub it back and forth on the cardboard there you go joins it up just fine all right put this one in the box move on love it um okay i'd like you to bear in mind here that the four features that i'm putting in this little piece of steel four different diameters four different widths at four different locations now the tangent point from each one of these holes will end up on the same diameter so if i were to turn this down all four of these features would disappear at the same time there's a little bit of math involved off-camera they're supposed to be three of these slots but i didn't want three i wanted four and i think you'll notice how the holes change two big ones are opposed to each other the two smallest are 90 degrees and opposed to those this will all make sense when this thing comes together again the slots are 16 93 125 and 156 and that's as far as metrics concerned you're gonna have to do the method out with yourself guys but it starts off at about one millimeter and a half goes to almost two uh it jumps to three at 125 and the 156 is right around four so it's it's pretty close like one two three four millimeters in the width this is the 156 slot going in right now the 125 was just cut and on the back side of the post you'd i know it looks like it's in line with that center boss which it is but it's on the back side of the part this is the one millimeter or millimeter and a half slot the o62 and i am nibbling away at it because i'm not really stocked up on these small cutters and i hope it doesn't explode which it didn't and coming to the front this is the 0.93 now what's at about a 2.2 and a quarter millimeter now i'm using a 90 degree four flute cutter here and i'm just using it to defer these slots now bear in mind because the slots are different widths the height of this tool is different for each slot so i back the cutter off for each one bring it down and bump it until i see the big radius clean up when i know the radius at the end of each one of these slots is cleaned up i'll lock the spindle off right there and just feed out i don't have to do this but it saves me some bench time and it makes for a much more symmetrical broken edge see any clean up right there and draw it out and away you go this is strictly visual not critical at all purely cosmetic and to finish the part we're going to put it back in the collet we're going to part it off the length and yes there are four interruptions a nice sharp tool good rigid setup parting across an interruption is not a problem there is a risk that the chip that you produce will fall back into the interruption and have to shear off again it may show up as a vibration in the final finish if you're using a real thin tool it might break the tool but it is possible it's not something that you should be afraid to do [Music] and a quick look at the results of your labor i think probably you know exactly what this is and where this is going had a lot of video to lace together to do this we're going to put this machine together in the next video i hope you'll come back and take a look this was a lot of fun to make a part like this i've never seen one this small anyways jill pi here at advanced innovations in austin texas stay well thank you for watching i'm out you

Channel: Joe Pie

Views: 26,753

Keywords: Joe Pie, JoePieczynski, Advanced Innovations, advanced innovations llc, how to, machine shop, shop tricks, shop hacks, shop techniques, shop tutorials, Scale models, mini lathe, steam engines, beginner machinist, hobby machinist, advanced machiniist, professional machinist, turning, milling CNC, manual machining, machining, arbor press, pm research

Id: heBCgmOUJyc

Length: 35min 24sec (2124 seconds)

Published: Sun Oct 03 2021