the COMPLETE guide to the Farmall F-20: history, unique features, restoration tips

hi I'm P and welcome to just a few acres farm after I did my last video on farm all tractors I got a lot of requests to do specialized videos focusing on one tractor at a time and this is the first video of that series today I'm focusing on the farm all f20 and the reason I picked this one first is because it's the first tractor I restored back in 2005 and it's got so many cool features I think you all find it very interested even if you're not farmers and even if you're not into agricultural equipment this f20 was made in 1939 now F 20s were made from 1932 to 39 and some were even made in 1940 from parts that the factories had left over from the production run this tractors serial number is one three four four five six and with farm all tractors of this era there's something you want to look for if you're trying to determine whether the tractor has all original components and the first is there's a serial number plate here on the toolbox that's got the serial number the second is there's a number stamped on the frame rail and this says F a 1 3 4 5 4 6 N and then there's a number on the engine right here which matches 1 3 4 4 5 6 so we know that the frame the engine and the tractor assembly numbers all match the second thing you can do to narrow down when the tractor was produced is to look at the casting codes on all the major parts so if I look on the engine block it says 12 6h on the engine block the transmission cover says 11 28 H now the way you decode these obviously the first two numbers are the month and the date so on the transmission cover it's November 28 and H is the year casting code H stands for 1938 and International Harvester terms so I know that the castings for this tractor were made in late 1938 but it was assembled in 1939 when it got its final serial number the casting codes for international run a through Z and H was 1938 it ran to Z in 1954 and then they restarted at a in 1954 55 the F and F 20 stands for Farmall and the 20 is its horsepower class this tractor was tested at twenty point six six horsepower on the drawbar and twenty eight horsepower on the belt pulley at its Nebraska tractor test running on kerosene the Nebraska tractor test started in nineteen twenty and what happened was Nebraska passed state legislation to test all models from all manufacturers of tractors that were being sold in the state because a lot of manufacturers or at least some manufacturers were making false claims about their models durability and their horsepower rating so Nebraska designed a set of standardized tests and they ran the tractors around a special track and hooked equipment to them to measure horsepower torque drawbar pull and overall durability in a set of endurance test now that Nebraska tractor test became the gold standards upon which manufacturers and consumers relied to rate their tractors against other models of tractors and from different manufacturers this tractor was designed to start on gasoline but run on distillate kerosene or tractor fuel which were cheaper alternatives to gasoline back when this was made and this is what's known as a narrow tread version it has wheels that are spaced much closer together than the regular versions of F 20s and these narrow tread versions were designed to run through narrower spaced rows of plants this is quite a bit more rare than the regular wide versions and I have a wide version over here that I'll show you the difference with this is an old lady that's awaiting restoration through the trees here you can see the difference this is a wide tread tractor and these were a lot more common as I said the F 20 was the direct successor to the farm all regular which was the first Farmall tractor and really the first all-purpose tractor before that tractors were pretty ungainly things and usually designed for a specific purpose such as plowing and elevating the farm irregular combined a bunch of innovations to become one of the first tractors that was available to small farmers who wanted to replace their horses its tricycle front end made it easy to turn sharply at the end of the row and the operator sat up high with excellent visibility all around it had high ground clearance for cultivating taller crops and it was simple to operate in repair in 1932 the f20 replaced the regular and International Harvester added other size models to the lineup the F 12 and F 32 tip more take care of farms at all size requirements the F 20 had several improvements over the regular including some engine improvements to make it a little more powerful and I had a four-speed transmission instead of the regulars three they enclosed the steering gears in the front of the tractor to limit their wear from dirt it had an engine oil filter which the regular didn't and ahead options of either a wide or narrow rear end and for the front end you could get it with a single front wheel two front wheels and a tricycle arrangement or a wide front end those white front end tractors are pretty desirable to collectors today and up until the mid 1930s all the farm all f 20s came on steel wheels but then in the mid 30s they started producing rubber tyred tractors and it made the ride so much smoother up until late 1936 farm all's were painted gray like a lot of other manufacturers tractors and in late 1936 International Harvester introduced its signature red color there were about a hundred and fifty thousand F 20s produced during their production run from 1932 to 39 in 1939 International Harvester replaced this lineup with their letter series tractors which are probably their most famous and these consisted of the a B H and M to start and then later on the C and the cub were added to that lineup overall the tractors built really simply and one of the things I'm fascinated with about agricultural history and technology in general is that when something new is made like a tractor it takes a while for the technology to become integrated so this tractor is built basically with a fir engines sitting here clutch housing here transmission here one after the other later on tractor manufacturers would start to integrate the engine the clutch housing a transition transmission into one unit and they became structural instead of having a completely separate frame when you go around to the transmission the final drive is here with the differential and then there's stub axles that come out from each side of the differential those drive pinion gears and these housings here and then this big part of the housing down below is where the big bull gears are so by dropping the bull gears like this International Harvester achieved a higher clearance underneath the tractor to go over taller crops the operator station is up high so you have an excellent field of view all around you and this was different from a lot of the tractors of the era before this you have a really good visibility straight ahead the tractor widens on the hood as you go forward so you can look straight down and these tractors did a lot of cultivating so looking to see where the wheels were running exactly was really important when it comes to the rest the operator station this isn't the most comfortable tractor to sit on the seat does have a spring but my feet you can see maybe people were shorter back then my feet don't really have a good place except when they're on the pedals I guess it was a lot better than walking in front of a horse and farmers could be thankful for that the spark advance is here and I'll get to that a little later this is the throttle control adjust engine RPMs clutch on this side brake pedals on this side which was an innovation with the F 20 up until the F 20 they had a pull brake handle gear shifters here for speeds ahead fourth gear as a rode gear it's much faster and one speed reverse we've got gauges water temperature gauge here for the coolant and then over on the other side and oil pressure gauge which you look at the trait below the oil filter and finally to finish the controls this is the shifter that engages or disengages the bail pulley on the other side of the tractor so what jobs did this tractor do well this was designed as an all-around general-purpose tractor and the principal jobs of the day it could do them all it could pull a to bottom plow like the little genius plows the International made and it was excellent for cultivating it carried a set of two row mounted cultivators it actually turned when the tractor steered and I'll show you that a little later it could disc harrow and plant the ground cut and raked a loaded loose hay as was the standard in those days pulled wagons it could even have a loader with a trip bucket mounted on it which was a really complicated affair that ran off the belt pulley ins because this tractor didn't have any hydraulics and a key feature was its belt pulley power there were so many things on farms in those days that ran off of a bought belt pulley threshing machines feed grinders household equipment the belt pulley was used on some farms more than the actual tractor pulling implements was alright enough yakking let's start the tractor now these old tractors that are crank start like specific choke and throttle settings to start on the fewest cranks and there's quite a few steps to get her started first we have to oil the rocker arms through these little caps on the valve cover and then we've got to turn on the gas make sure it's in neutral set the throttle at about one third adjust the spark to fully so that the crank doesn't kick back when I'm pulling on it give it full choke see the choke is on the front of the tractor because that's where you're doing the cranking from then I crank it twice with full choke now when you're cranking an old tractor you want to be careful how you hold yourself and your hand on the crank the crank engages by pushing it in and you want to keep your thumb on the same side of the handle as your fingers because if that crank kicks back it can break your thumb if you've got it wrapped around it and you want to hold your body so if the crank kicks back around the other way it's not going to whack you in the head or in the arm so you've got your body pushed back I've never had one of these old tractors kick back on me because I'm careful to fully the spark but there's always a danger of it so two pulls with the choke on full maybe three I got to wait till I see gas start to spray out of the bottom of the carb there we go take the choke off set it to about half and away we go now once we get it running left with just a spark advance no the tractor sound OH so I've advanced a spark Brown but Jen first here and I shut her off by accident first rule using a crank start tractor always bring the crank with you I always turn off the gas on these old tractors throat agreement Harbor in these older models used to be made out of cork and if you that big fuel bowl on the carburetor holds a lot of guests so she'll run for quite a while after I shut off the fuel this tractor has a long restoration story I put a ton of work into it I bought it from one of the most well-known Farmall collectors and international collectors in the Northeast and his name was Dick's toil he lives about a half an hour from where we are and he had an amazing tractor collection he had fields full of old farm all tractors he had a lot of restored tractors too in fact in his retirement he started selling off his collection and the big old tighten and moguls the giant tractors that first broke the prairies he sold his collection to a lot of folks in Australian wood shipped those tractors overseas and for some of those tractors he was getting 150 grand a piece to sell them so that was his retirement unfortunately Dix passed now but he taught me quite a bit he was a cranky guy and I remember when I first went to see him I really wanted enough 20 because I loved how they looked there weren't very many of them around that were still running and I asked them can I use this tractor on my farm he said well these tractors said the world for years and years when they were made of course you can use it on the farm and oh I bought this tractor from that was a real junker I paid a thousand bucks for it which was probably twice as much as it was worth but I was just starting out and I didn't know anything about it I spent every weekend for the better part of a year working on this tractor and I would work on it every weekend and then on Monday when I got to work I would order the parts that I needed for the next weekend's work the tractor really was a wreck it was missing some parts it was seized up it had been sitting for decades I imagine so we got home I pulled it into the shop and the first thing I did was disassemble the whole thing from this tractor I wound up with just a big pile of parts on the floor of my shop and I started sandblasting the pieces one by one I'd bring one each one out sandblast it prime it bring it back in when I had all the of sandblasted then I could start putting it back together and going through it and looking at each assembly and replacing all the seals anything that was bad a big help and for any tractor restoration this is true is to get three books when you start restoring a tractor number one is the parts manual that's got exploded diagrams or cutaway views of every single assembly on the tractor with part numbers assigned to every single nut bolt seal gear everything the second is an operator's manual which tells you how to run and maintain the tractor and adjust various things and the third is an int manual or even better yet an International Harvester shop manual which tells you how to disassemble adjust reassemble judge the wear on the components so those three books are necessary when I disassembled the engine I found out what it probably killed the tractor originally and that was one of the Pistons had a back connecting rod and the way a connecting rod usually gets bent as a tractor sits for a while rain gets in through the exhaust and gets into the cylinder through an open valve and then somebody goes to crank it it won't crank so they hook it up to another tractor and they pull start it and you've got water in the combustion chamber and when both valves are closed down the compression stroke of the engine that water won't compress like air will and something's got to give and that's the piston rod so I found that bent rod and figured this is what happened now parts for these tractors aren't the easiest to find because they ain't making them anymore and I found almost all the parts that I needed from Gordon rice from rice equipment in Pennsylvania and Gordon's since passed away he was such a wealth of knowledge about these older tractors he dealt exclusively in pre 1939 International Harvester tractors the business is still going but Gordon is gone and that's a great loss I took the engine to a local machine shop I and that consisted of the engine block taken apart the engine head and the sleeves and the crankshaft the man polished the crankshaft he went through the head he ground the valves he put new hardened valve seats in he honed out the sleeves so that they were true again fortunately they weren't worn so much that they couldn't be reused it took him a while because he was overloaded with projects but when I finally got it back it was great because I knew I had an engine that was back to spec and would run well with good compression one of the confounding things for me when I was working on this is inside here is the clutch and it was a solid lump of rust mice had gotten in through an inspection hole which is meant to check the timing on the tractor filled it full of mouse nest pooped and peed in there and of course urine is the worst thing for Medellin it was unusable so I had to search and search for a clutch that was still in decent enough condition to use and luckily I found one it took me about six months of weekend work to get the tractor all cleaned up and put back together enough to start the engine and that was a big day I'd never heard the tractor running before in fact I don't think I had ever heard enough twenty run before well I cranked it up in my shop and it fired right off and that was so rewarding after that I had to take a good part of the tractor back apart in order to paint it properly I used Napa Martinson or paints I'm really happy with them I still use Napa paints and my tractor restorations they don't fade they harden up really shiny and they make for a really professional-looking job and after I finished the tractor I took photos of it and I happened to be back to visit Dick's toil I bought the tractor from who as I said was a grumpy old guy showed him the pictures and he was floored I guess what happens is he gets a lot of looky-loos at this place who buy an old junker like I did they get about halfway through it or tear it apart and then they get tired of work on it and they never complete the restoration he just figured I was another one of those guys so when I came back with the photos of what I would have done he was really impressed and after that he was a whole different person to me I'd come over and ask him technical question he was always happy to help me so I guess I proved what I could do to him and seems like that's always what we're doing in the world is proving to people what we can do now I want to spend some time on an in-depth discussion of how this tractor is built because technology hadn't yet settled down when this tractor was made many factures we're still experimenting with lots of different ways to build tractors and I think that's what's really cool about this tractor let's start with the engine because there is a slew of things that are unique about this engine this engine has four cylinders each piston is three and three-quarter inches in diameter and has a five inch stroke from bottom to top that gives it a total of this placement of 221 cubic inches and it has a really low four to one compression ratio and the reason that the compression ratio is so low is partially because it was meant to burn kerosene distillate or tractor fuel which ignite better at low compressions the long stroke of this engine gives it a lot of torque at low rpms and it's practically unkillable because of that long stroke it just will Putt Putt Putt right down as it's pulling a load the other thing that adds to the engine momentum is the flywheel in this housing is a hundred pounds so once that thing gets spinning it'll keep spinning even if it misses a few fires on the spark plugs this engine has an oil pump but it's splash lubricated on the bottom end and the way that works is in the oil pan there's a set of troughs that run under each piston and as the piston connecting rod on the crankshaft comes down into the bottom of its stroke a little dipper on the connecting rod cap dips into that oil trough and scoops up oil and directs it into a hole in the rod bearing cap which lubricates the rod bearing there is a pipe that goes along the side of the engine and squirts oil into those troughs the top end of the engine is manually lubricated so every day before you start the tractor you open up these little lids here and you score oil from an oil can in there and below them underneath this cover are two troughs and each trough has a rope wound in it that's made of felt and the felt soaks up the oil and then there's a hole at the bottom of the trough and the oil that's soaked into the felt gradually drips down onto the rocker arms to lubricate them so one thing you need to do when you run this edge you need to remember to lubricate the top end yourself the oil filter is a bypass type and it was made by Purolator for International Harvester and by bypass type I mean it doesn't filter all the oil every circuit that the oil makes it only filters a percentage of it to maintain oil pressure inside this can as a replaceable element so you just take the can off and then you can replace the element and from the oil filter you can see these pipes that run to different spots on the engine there's this one there's this one down here that's high into the oil filter and then there's a third one that runs down to the bottom of the timing cover and that actually runs into lubricate those dippers on the rod ends that I was talking about so instead of having internal passages everything's exposed on this engine oil running into the filter oil running down and lubricating the governor and oil running down to the dipper pipe to lubricate the splash dippers now the crankshaft on this engine is one sturdy beast because there are no intermediate bearings to support the crankshaft between the cylinders instead there's a big double roll ball bearing on both ends of it from here to here an International Harvester advertised those bearings is being lifetime bearings if those bearings ever failed they would replace them for free and the rod bearings that the piston rods connect to on the crankshaft were completely different than modern bearings too instead of having this thin C shaped liner of Babbitt material these are big honkin rod bearings that wrap around the rod bearing caps and have thick Babbitt on them and the idea was that if the tolerances started to run too loose with engine wear and you got too much of a gap between the crankshaft journal and the rod bearing there were shims under the rod bearing caps and you would just take out a few of those shims to tighten up the clearance and then you could run the engine again for however long before tightening them you could get to all the Pistons through these two access covers in the engine block so if you take these off you can actually pull the piston out of the engine and you can adjust the rod bearing clearance that way to check the oil on this there's two pet on the oil pan the top pet is to check for proper engine oil level the bottom pet is for periodically draining a percentage of the engine oil if you're running on distillate because distillate had a tendency to make its way down into the engine oil through the piston rings more so than gasoline and it would dilute the engine oil so every 10 hours I think it was or almost every day you would drain the oil down and then fill it back up with fresh oil to make the engine easier to start on cold days up here on top of the valve cover there are also two priming cups and you rotate a little lid on top fill it with gasoline with a squeeze bottle close it up and then turn it to let the gasoline down through a tube that runs through the valve cover and into the head and it drops that gasoline directly into the intake passages in the head giving you a really rich mixture to start from on a cold day this engine has a giant cooling system and it has no water pump it's what's called a thermo siphon cooling system and the way it works is just simply through convection the hot coolant which exits the head through this manifold and goes through up in here into the radiator is as hot as it's going to get now when it gets to the radiator it gets cooled by the fan and as it cools it becomes denser it drops down through the radiator and that enters is cooler water on this lower pipe and comes back into the engine one of the side effects of having a thermo siphon cooling system is you need a lot of coolant this tractor holds over 7 gallons of coolant and back when they made this tractor there wasn't any special antifreeze like we use today so if the tractor fell below freezing and storage the water inside would freeze and crack the engine block whenever the tractor was being stored in below freezing conditions they would drain the water every night and put in new water in the morning or put the water back in that they had taken out there's a petcock here on the bottom of the radiator which is easy to open and it just drains all the water out this is the tractors air cleaner and it was made by Donaldson for International Harvester this is the original tag that was on you can see how rusty this thing originally was so this is the incoming air that goes into the carburetor now how this oil bath air cleaner works is there's a fine steel mesh that's rolled up in this section of the air cleaner and then there's oil from here straight down to the bottom a couple quarts of oil when incoming air comes into the system through here it actually is directed down in a pipe through the middle of this and that pipe exits into this oil so you've got air essentially blowing into that oil and it boils the oil up into the steel mesh in the oil coats steel mesh so the air after its exited of the pipe at the bottom and comes back up through that steel mesh is cleaned and all the dust is trapped by the oil that's stuck to the mesh and then clean air flows through into the carburetor you take the bottom of this air cleaner off once in a while because the oil will eventually get dirty after you shut the tractor off all of that oil mixed with dirt drains back down and the reservoir in the bottom you take it off you put in new oil and then you put it back on it's a really ingenious design there's no paper element to change everything is reusable tractors different from cars have a governor on them and what the governor does that governs the engine at a specific rpm based on how much you've got the throttle pulled back governor is really simple it just consists of two weights that spin on the shaft and this shaft is connected to gears in the timing cover that's been with the engine so as those weights spin they generate centrifugal force going outside and then there's a part that presses on those two weights and varies how far the weights are flying outward how much that washer gets pressed on that washer is connected to a linkage at the front of the tractor which runs around to the carburetor on the other side and so as this governor is moving back and forth it's adjusting the top butterfly valve in the carburetor and telling the carburetor how much gas and air it needs to feed into the engine to keep it the specified rpm behind the governor and driven by the same shaft as the governor is the magneto and this is what generates the spark to fire the spark plugs on the tractor there's no battery needed on this track it creates all of its own electricity there's a spinning armature within this magneto that rotates within a magnetic field created by this u-shaped magnet here and when it spins within that magnetic field it generates current the result is a very hot spark now besides that current generation part there's a lot of things that this shares with a modern distributor in cars or at modern as in what they used up until the mid 80s there's a coil in this magneto to up the voltage there's a condenser there's a set of points there's a distributor cap here that distributes the spark to each spark plug and there's another unique thing which is called an impulse coupling which resides in here and it's a coiled spring so that it'll spin the magneto really fast when you're cranking the tractor very slowly trying to get it started so every time the distributor hits the point where it's going to fire a spark this spring will trip and spin the coil over really fast so you get a nice hot spark to start the engine now if I take the crank and turn the engine over you can hear that impulse coupling snap that sharp snap is the impulse coupling firing this magneto different from later Magneto's and distributors has a manual spark advance so the spark advance changes the relationship of when the spark plug fires to where in the travel the piston is so a starting point you want that spark plug to fire when the piston is very close to what they call top dead center the very top of its travel so that the engine doesn't kick backwards when you're cranking on it now as the engine RPMs increase you want to advance the spark in a relationship to where the Pistons are in its travel so if you've got your engine running fast you actually want that spark plug to fire while the piston still sort of on its way up reaching top dead center that's how you get the most efficiency and the coolest run an engine out of your spark the consequence is you have to listen to the engine when it's running adjust the spark advance accordingly through the lever on the operators platform to get the engine running the smoothest and the coolest now this tractor was designed to run hot because you get the best vaporization of tractor fuel distillate and kerosene at hotter temperatures than gasoline this is an aftermarket manifold that's designed to burn gasoline but the original manifolds and I'll show you the one on the older unrestored version I have over there we're a lot more complicated all this big huge thing here is a heat exchanging intake and exhaust manifold designed to burn tractor fuel and what it does is it acts like a big heat exchanger it takes it out going exhaust air and passes it by the cold incoming intake air so that the fuel will better vaporize at a hotter temperature at pre warms that intake air and it's adjustable via this little lever which ran back to a lever on the operator station so you can adjust how hot the tractors running via its manifold also to assist in helping the engine run hotter these tractors were equipped with a set of radiator shutters which is this piece that's on the front of the radiator and it's just a shutter like a set of mini blinds that you can open and close via a crank on the operators platform coming back from this rod so you could adjust how much air is coming into the radiator and thus how hot the engine was running now the fuel system this consists of a tank within a tank so what you see here the big tank is the kerosene distillate tractor fuel tank then back here there's a smaller tank that's inset in you can see here in this ring and this is actually the starting gasoline tank so there was a specific sequence to starting these tractors you started them on gasoline and then after they warmed up you switch them over to distillate and you did that by hand what you would do is you would start the tractor by having this petcock open so that gasoline was feeding down through this line and into the sediment bowl down here and the sediment Bowl would feed the carburetor via this pipe now after the tractor warmed up you would close this petcock on the gasoline tank and you would open the petcock on the sediment bowl and that way it would start burning justlet now a really important aspect of this is before you shut the tractor down you had to do the process in Reverse so that the carburetor was filled with gasoline from the gasoline tank so that when you started the tractor again you had gasoline to start it because unless it was very hot you couldn't start the tractor on distil up and the clutch on this tractor is probably the simplest and most modern thing about it it's an 11 inch diameter single plate clutch no special things about it easy to maintain not as easy to replace but I did find one the transmission on this tractor is driven from the clutch housing through a linkage which is underneath this cover and entering the transmission these old transmissions were practically bullet proof I think I had to replace one bearing in this transmission and that's all this front piece is a transmission then the differential is in this rounded thing behind it one unique thing about these old transmissions is modern rubber seals weren't available yet or at least weren't common yet so everything that exits or enters the transmission including where the belt pulley runs from and the input shaft where the power comes in is made with packing seals like an old faucet would be so instead of a simple rubber seal there's a piece of lead coated felt rope that goes into a special housing and then a clamping gland goes down on the top of it and you screw that clan tight so that the rope is sealed against the shaft that's going through and as the tractor runs and the rope wears you keep clamping down by screwing down on that packing gland and keep the seal that way one thing that helped the seals is these old transmissions ran really thick oil at least 140 weight so they weren't as prone to leakage is modern thinner 90 weight and even in modern transitions 10 or 20 weight oil wood we heard angle I'm laying under the tractor but you can see what that packing gland looks like here's where that seal is wrapped inside this is the packing gland and there's a little metal thing here that holds it from turning while the tractors running but if you need to turn it down to leek you just bend this back and turn this ring to clamp down on the rope inside the brakes on this tractor independent there's one on each side the brake drum is housed within this cover there's a drum and then there's two shoes inside the drum which press outward on the drum to staff to stop the tractor the brake drums located at the end of the stub axle which comes out from the differential onto this pinion gear before it goes down to the bull gear the brakes are worked and this was an improvement over earlier versions by independent brake pedals brake pedal was actually kind of a new thing all the previous versions of this tractor had a hand pulled handle that you would use to stop the tractor since this tractor was used a lot for cultivating people didn't have spray back then they cultivated all their crops this tractor has a lot of special features that are unique to make cultivating easier the first is and you saw this when I was driving the tractor this tractor will spin on itself because it has an arm mounted to the front bolster or the shaft that comes down and turns the front wheels and it turns with the wheels now when you turn the tractor hard to one side this arm winds up pulling on either of these cables the cables run all the way back along the tractor and engage the brake on the side that you're turning lock this wheel up and the tractor turns in place this was handy for cultivating because when you reach the end of a row you could turn on a right angle and hit that next row or the headland row without ruining too many plants the other feature that's unique to cultivating and it's been cut off on mining used to stick out longer is this is a cultivator shifting lever that's on the front and it also this piece that's been cut off moves with the steering back and forth and when you have front mounted cultivators on this tractor those cultivators would actually shift as you're turning to keep the cultivators from running over the row that's in front of you as you're turning the wheels there are so many unique things about this tractor but a lot of them were uniquely suited to the time in which it was made in farm exchanged a lot since then so how do we use this tractor on the farm well this tractor is as close as I have to what's called a trailer Queen it's pretty it's painted it winds up sitting a lot I keep it up in the corner of our barn I walk into our barn every day or multiple times a day and get to see this tractor weight and for me in there I started up once in a while and I run it around the only real uses head on the farm is when I was preparing our pastures and seeding our pastures I was pulling a drag Harrow with the H and the H was having a really hard time with it so I said well I'll hook up the F 20 I hooked up the F 20 that drag Harrow and the F 20 pulled it around like nothing it's got so much more torque than the H doesn't so much more displacement just like they say there's no replacement for engine displacement probably this tractors most common uses are well when the kids were little we would pull them around with it a lot on tractor rides and a wagon and in our annual farm day in August I always take this tractor out clean it up hook it to our antique manure spreader put it in the lawn where everybody sees it when they walk in as a piece of agricultural history and that's my in-depth look at the farm all f20 I hope you enjoyed it I hope you enjoyed all the detail let me know down in the comments if you'd like to see future videos longer like this with a more detailed view of each of our old farm all tractors thanks for joining me and I'll see you next time

Channel: Just a Few Acres Farm

Views: 575,477

Keywords: small livestock farm, small farm life, farming, farm, homestead, just a few acres farm, antique tractors, farmall F-20, farmall F-20 restoration, farmall F20, international harvester, farmall f-20 history, farmall f-20 features, how to start f-20, how to restore f-20, driving farmall f-20, farmall f-20, restored f-20, f-20 narrow tread

Id: e8GBWFYQvSw

Length: 39min 10sec (2350 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 10 2020