The Complete Guide to Dice Making | Sprue Molds

so you want to learn how to make dice how about i show you in a way that's concise i'll put it all in a single video will that suffice you make some nice dice that are cool as ice and they'll entice even the blindest of mice you'll be in paradise when you learn how to make dice with these simple devices ah it's close enough anywho let me show you how to make some tabletop rpg dice now i say dice making but this could basically be small part making for any sort of game making for tabletop games or little miniatures if you wanted you just have to apply the same principles i'm making two guides one for sprue moulds and one for cap or squish molds a lot of the information applies to both so you may hear it in both of the guides but that's because it's important and you need to know it so i want this to be a complete guide to both styles there are technically three styles of molds there are open face molds which are not very good there are also squish or cap molds which will be in the other video and this video focuses predominantly on sprue molds it's closest to real manufacturing in that it's almost like an injection mold because what you're going to do is inject resin into a silicone mold now you don't need to have your own dice designed to get started you can absolutely use dice made by giant manufacturers like chessex that's what i did for the longest time heck you can even find him in target nowadays because tabletop gaming is becoming so popular i have a huge collection of dice that i've made and ones that i've been given or purchased but since i have my own i am going to use masters that i have for my own specific set of dice they have my logo on them which is a dice goblin and they were designed by the blue mimic i also had another set designed by okami fabrications which i released out there for free so if you want to make your own dice and 3d print them and then turn them into your own sets of dice to sell go for it i put that up on my youtube channel it's free i'm not going to sue you other dice manufacturers might if you try and take their dice and sell them but let's get started into the actual making of it this is a silicone sprue mold it's one that i've made before and it's one that we're going to be replicating today now it's called a sprue mold because not only is the dice being made there's an extra part on the end which you can see here with this dice that we're going to be making that you will snip off later there's two types one that basically has the sprue right connected to your object like this one here this is a dice connected to another dice or those with a longer sprue we're going to focus on making the ones with the longer sprue today because they are far more reliable this single die here connected to another die is basically going to be replicated in resin and the way we're going to do that is by using a drebble i have a dremel bit here that is about the width of a toothpick which is what we're going to put inside of our dice it should look like this in the end result which we will put another die on afterwards so we're going to take this drill bit on the end of our dremel here and just drill down into whichever dice we want to replicate again in this case i'm using my 3d printed resin masters we're going to use the dremel to drill into any surface on the die that doesn't have a number on it because those numbers we can't recreate however whenever we put the toothpick down in this little hole here you can see from the side angle there is a hole that goes down further into it i'll show you again here in just a second the toothpick will fill that hole and also be recreated with resin so it will be as if there is no hole there at all and we're going to fill that with resin and sand it down later which will become obvious as we go through this video now that we have a hole in our set of 7 rpg dice or however many dice you want to recreate i use some hobby clippers and clip off the sharp end of the toothpick i want it to sit flush down inside the hole so that when we super glue it down in there it has something to actually grip onto and we don't have any areas for resin to seep down inside there we want this to be pretty much spot on snug fit right down into the hole i test each piece down into each of the die because i want to make sure that there isn't going to be a random bit of toothpick that isn't going to fit once i start super gluing this stuff down i also have some accelerator which basically causes the super glue to dry in about 10 seconds you don't need that it just saves me 10 minutes of waiting time for the super glue to dry now i put a dollop of super glue on one end of the cut toothpick just barely we don't want any of the super glue seeping out and over onto the dice because then we have to sand it away later so if you can avoid that go for it after you glue it down spray it with the accelerator if you got it and then after about 10 seconds this thing is solid and good to go if you don't have an accelerator you just have to wait 10 to 30 minutes depending on your super glue but now we have a toothpick inside of our dice that will not come out i'm going to show you again here in a zoomed in version we want barely any super glue at all just enough for it to grab something down inside the hole that we put in the dice now when i'm putting the toothpicks in i like to turn them just a little bit so that they lean on the die because if we don't do that there's a chance that there are going to be bubbles stuck in there if this is just a flat surface connected to a flat toothpick so try and lean them if you can if not it's no big deal it works nine times out of 10 the other way anyway but you can see here these are glued in and they are ready for our next step for that next step a lot of people like to use sculpey 3 which is a type of clay that doesn't have a problem curing in silicone but i like to use these tiny little d6s or six sided dice for people who aren't dungeons and dragons nerds it has the one side which is great for the toothpick to find a natural hole to grab onto which i find really useful and i think it's kind of poetic using a dice to make a reservoir for when you're making dice it's basically tradition at this point so i'm not gonna stop it i put some super glue on it and the other end of the sprue and hold it down there while i then use the accelerator to again speed up the process this part is what is not fun at all if you don't have an accelerator because you have to sit there in the same exact position for probably about 30 minutes because you need this thing to stand up straight you can lean it against something but if it falls you're screwed and you got to start all over so it's really nice to have that accelerator and i'm showing you here in real time what that accelerator does because i sprayed it and now it is solid and good to go i can pick this thing up by either end and it's not going to be a problem this shape here is what's going to be recreated in resin from the clear 3d printed dice to the toothpick to the extra reservoir of the red dye we're just going to cut off the toothpick and the red dye part of the resin because we don't need it we only want the dice that's going to be down there at the bottom i do the same thing for the rest of the dice in the set but if the sprue is too long you can go ahead and cut it off you only need about this much on there really as long as you're not going to have any of the red dye touching the actual dye that you want recreated you're pretty much good to go and even then like i said you can do it without the toothpick entirely if you really wanted to it just takes more cleanup a note of caution if you're using 3d printed materials and recreating them in silicone you can see here in this image some 3d printed materials if you're using sla which is basically using leds to 3d print in resin you're going to have a problem and you need something like inhibit x because for some reason that type of resin and platinum cured silicone do not work if you're using digital laser printed 3d prints you're not going to have a problem at all it will print and it's not going to cause your silicone to get all goopy here's a finished silicone mold using one of the die that we're going to be using in this method you can see here the little dice goblin is on the inside of the mold and it's the same thing here on this actual 3d printed piece so how are we gonna do that we need some sort of vessel for our mold and i think the best vessel for that is a two ounce little red solo cup the bottom of which is actually going to be the top of our mold so we're going to kind of do this in an inverse manner but that's just how you have to do things after we make the mold we then cut the dice out and can fill it with resin we're going to place our piece so that the dice that we want to recreate sits in the very center of the mold the problem is if we do this now this thing is just kind of sitting in here free form and it's going to flip-flop all around you can glue this any number of ways but i'm just going to use hot glue because it's really easy to get off of there and out of the mold later super glue would have the same effect but this makes it so i can set it instantly and really get working on other stuff because once we put the accelerator on there we have to wipe it off and it's really hard to wipe accelerator off on the inside of a cut i'm going to show you here at a couple different angles so that you can see me doing it multiple times it is essentially just putting hot glue on the end that you want on the bottom which will turn out to be the top of your silicone mold down inside the cup again that's hot glue enough just to hold it on down there we don't need a huge glob of it a pea-sized dollop really ought to do the trick it's just to hold it down there now when you're placing this down the placement of the red dye or the thing that you're actually sticking it to the bottom with is not nearly as important as where the dice or the object you're recreating goes that needs to be pretty close to the center of your mold and not touching any sides at all if the red dye was touching a side that's not a huge deal but if the dice or the object that you're recreating is you basically should start over because your mold is going to fail at some point now we can actually start mixing the silicone that will make the mold i like using sorta clear 12 because it's sort of clear and that's really helpful for youtube however i've used many other ones ones that you cannot see through at all but i will say that the sorta clear has its advantage because you can actually see inside and see what you're doing which will help later on and i'll point that out when we get to that part now this is a one-to-one by volume mix and we will mix two parts of it to get just enough to fill up these molds now we have seven pieces in this dice set and they're all in two ounce little red solo cups so we need about 14 ounces of silicone a little less subtracting for the volume of the dice i have these two eight ounce cups which will give me 16 ounces in total but again i'm not going to fill them all the way up because i'm just not going to need that much you've got to be pretty accurate in your measurements with this stuff so the little lines on the side of these cups i find pretty helpful to make sure that i have an equal amount of part a and part b solution for this silicone i pour both parts into a larger mixing cup and use a giant popsicle stick to mix them together now once you start mixing this stuff you've got to really mix this stuff if your arm isn't tired by the time you're done mixing it i promise you you did not mix it enough takes about five minutes to really make sure this stuff is thoroughly mixed and you want to make sure you're scraping down the sides as you go if you pick it up like this and you don't see any streaks you're probably fine now when i'm picking this up you can see there's lots of tiny little bubbles in there which we're going to fix using a pressure pot you don't need to pressurize your silicone if you're not going to pressurize your resin which is pretty much if you're just going for completely translucent pieces kind of like this 3d printed dice here if you're going for opaque or something a little bit more rough spun you might not need to do it at all i like doing it for dice because it ensures there's no bubbles and i have a completely balanced die whenever i'm rolling it which is important for games now you might have seen me pouring the silicone in the back when you do this you want to go extremely slow this stuff is not as fluid as water so if it pours too quickly and it covers up a number there will be a giant bubble in there a pressure pot can fix small bubbles but it can't fix large gaps it's worth it to go slow now and not have to recreate these molds later little patients now will save you a lot of work in the long run pour in a single spot and let the silicone slowly rise its way up to the top it also helps if you tilt your molds sometimes if you're seeing some bubbles down in there through your dice that's a good thing to do now i'm going to pause here to talk about pressure pots in their entirety because it's important that you know what they do and how they do it before i continue so first what is a pressure pot a pressure pod is essentially a giant metal vessel they're typically filled with paint to pressurize it so that you can use it in a paint gun to spray all over a house except we're gonna be using it for resin pressure casting or in this case silicone at this current time i have modified mine to be used for resin work like that and i have a video showing how to do that as does zack higgins on youtube it's super helpful but again this is just a reinforced metal vessel that won't blow up depending on if you stay under the recommended pressure usage in this case this is a harbor freight pressure pot and the recommended pressure is to be under 60 psi the bulk of the changes that i did to this pressure pot come in at the lid now the lid is where we're going to be doing pretty much everything this piece here is just a three-way little intersection which shows both our pressure gauge where it will tell us how much pressure is inside the pot at any given time it shows it in psi which is mostly what we're looking for it's also got this ball valve here that i can open and close to let pressure in and a cap on the other side this stuff has to all be sealed really well either with teflon tape or some other sealant because this is using air inside and it wants to go out now it typically has a long little metal rod here that puts the pressure down in your paint but i took that off and instead we're going to use this air inlet here which typically you could take off but i like leaving it on there because it prevents the air from going down and sprays it out the side instead this way it's not shooting right down into our resin and possibly making a mess inside the pressure pot it also has the safety valve here which won't let the pressure pod actually go above 45 psi if it tries to go above 45 psi this little spring here will pull out and all of the air pressure will be released until it's under 45 psi one of the most important components you might have seen on the inside of the vessel it's pretty domed on the inside and it's not flat at all so i've created these little platforms out of nine inch diameter little wooden circles and some just wooden dowels from the dollar store it's great for setting molds on top of so that you don't have to worry about getting resin down inside your pressure pot and it sets everything flat i have a one two and three tiered one the two tier is four inches in between and the three tiered is three inches in between so that i can fit more molds in there at a time without having to worry about overcrowding just one platform or stacking molds back to the lid it has a couple other key components i marked it off in blue where these clamps go because if i tried to clamp these things down in the place that wouldn't actually fit them you can see here when i try and tighten them it is just going to hit something and i won't be able to clamp it down so once you find a good clamping spot it's really nice to have those marked off for you then you can tighten them down and you want to go as tight as you can humanly go it's really great to tighten two opposite ends at the same time to make sure you're not going to have any air leaks under the lid once that's all tightened down you have this ball valve here which you are going to connect your compressor to to let air in and then stop the flow of air entirely where you will leave the pressure pot for an extended period of time how are we going to get that air in we're going to use an air compressor i have this one from central pneumatic it goes up to 100 psi which is important because we need it to be double the pressure that we actually want because the pressure in the compressor is going to equal out with the pressure in the pressure pod so if the pot starts at zero and this one's at 80 it'll equal out to somewhere around 40. it's got these two gauges here showing the current pressure and i'm going to show how this works because right on these gauges it also has a safety valve which if i pull on will let air out the same way i'm going to put air from the hose into the pressure pot you can see here as i pull on the safety valve it pulls off some of that air and the pressure goes down from inside the compressor you can get these little hoses that have a male and female end at any sort of hardware store they come in little kits for air compressor kits and we're going to put the male end of this connector onto the female end of our air compressor after that we can hook it right up to the actual lid but be careful if there's pressure in there this stuff will fly off so you want to make sure you have a good handle on it this thing is far louder than i expected it to be now if you have a lot of neighbors maybe be considerate and don't do this late at night plan your pressure casting once we've filled the compressor up to around 80 or 90 psi all we have to do is connect the female end to our male connector on the actual pressure pot we can open up the ball valve which will let the air come from the compressor into the pot and if it was filled up this would start filling up with pressure then we'd close off the valve and we could leave this for pretty much any length of time as long as it takes the silicone or resin that you're casting to cure now let me give you a very professional explanation on how a pressure pot works now how a pressure pot works is when there's enough pressure in the vessel it actually takes the bubbles and puts them in solution with your silicone or resin to where the bubbles will dissolve in your material i like to think of it as there are a ton of giant bubbles in there and when there's so much pressure they get so tiny that the human eye can't even see them that's essentially the layman's way of how it works you can do the same thing with a vacuum chamber it creates a negative area of pressure and so it pulls any air bubbles that are in your resin or silicone up and out of the material the problem with this is you can't do this when the resident is inside your mold so i like a pressure pot because it does both jobs more easily so now that you understand what a pressure pod is and how it works let's resume where we left off this silicone has not aged i have not let it sit there for 24 hours or anything i just paused now let's put it in our pressure pot and do everything that we just talked about so we're going to lock the lid to the pressure pot and make sure that it is super duper tight because any air coming out is going to be no bueno at all once we connect the air compressor we open the ball valve you can see the pressure going all the way up until it hits around 40 psi close the ball valve off and then disconnect the hose i let it sit there for 12 hours which is all that the sorta clear 12 needs to be completely cured and now we can take the molds out you can see that the molds did a great job here because you can see the dice goblin down inside of there and we can go ahead and clip these little red solo cups and rip them off there if you used a vessel for your mold that you want to keep obviously you can't really clip them off of there but you may have a little bit harder of a time getting the silicone out i do that in some other molds you can see the molds did a great job they hold up just fine and once i pull them out of each of the cups they are good to go sometimes the little red dye at the top will pop out that's not a big deal at all you don't have to worry about that now we get to do the delicate process of cutting the dice out of there with an x-acto knife we want to take the knife right along the edges of the dice because that way we only have one face of the dice we have to actually sand and clean up later in general you want to try and zigzag your cuts when you go down the silicone because that will help the silicone reform itself when you're trying to actually replicate these in the molds i find that you don't really have to worry about it because if you're following the edges of a dice you're going to have to go in kind of a zigzag pattern anyway so it will just kind of naturally happen you can see after i've done the cut here i tried to go right along the edge of that 12 sided die now that's going to be really easy for clean up later but because i didn't want to go that far down on that side i have to make a second cut over here and to the other side sometimes the dice will line themselves up and you only have to do one cut and we'll call that a blessed day when that happens but most of the time you have to make two cuts making a large enough exit for the dice to actually be pushed out of the molds after i've made both of my cuts this mold is ready to be opened and to take the dice out now when you're doing so sometimes the little stick and the red dye will fall off that's not a big deal you can pop the other dice out and you're good to go this is a mold that is ready to be used baby and i'm super excited because this die here has hardly a scratch on it which means i don't really have to do much cleanup and it's ready to go for round two i'm going to show it one more time because when i was cutting out this d6 here and the other ones i was able to do it in one cut you can see because the cut was long enough and it kind of goes down towards where the bottom part of the die is it was really easy to push this out and now i don't have a d6 in there anymore now that we have all seven molds we have to worry about sealing the molds so that the resin doesn't leak out as we're trying to recreate the dice a lot of people like to reuse their actual mold casings like the little red solo cup i find that very hard to get back off so i don't do that other people use rubber bands which is a bad idea but i am going to show you what i use which is blue painters tape now the first time we go through i'm going to use rubber bands to show you why it's a bad idea because most people are gonna say no just use rubber bands instead i think the blue painters tape is great because you can get a nice tight seal that goes all the way around without being too tight rubber bands are often too tight but i am gonna show using them for this video and show using blue painters tape the first set that i'm going to use the rubber bands on is so that you can see inside the molds because it's really hard to see inside if i'm using blue painters tape but it will mess them up so i'll show you both ways now before working with resin we need to talk safety you need to have some sort of respirator that is rated for fumes and nitrile gloves you don't want to breathe this stuff in or get any of it on your skin make sure you check the material safety data sheet for resin usage i'm using envirotex light resin because it cures in 12 hours and it becomes crystal clear i like using this stuff i get it in gallons because it's really cheap that way but you do not have to buy it in gallons i just use a lot of resin you mix it one to one by volume and i'm gonna dye it with alcohol ink ocean green and add some liquid glitter in there i'm going to add some macro pearl to the ocean green which is mica powder mica powder is basically glitter if glitter were invented by satan and were super duper tiny but it makes things look real pretty when mixing this stuff i just use a regular popsicle stick and i make sure i get every drop of resin out of there because again the volume ratio really really matters on this stuff and if it's uncured that's a bad deal this is the same as the silicone mix it for a solid five minutes until you see no streaks in there and we're gonna deal with those bubbles in the pressure pod the same way we did before after it's mixed i'm gonna separate it into two parts one then i'm gonna turn green and one that i'm gonna do kind of a pinkish color to make the gdc colors thanks for sponsoring this video now when i say green it's more of a teal it's just called green as far as alcohol link is concerned ocean green you kind of get the point i put a lot of drops of this alcohol link stuff in there now you don't have to use alcohol ink you could use food coloring but alcohol ink is made with alcohol and not water like food coloring so you can pretty much put as much of it as you want in there with food coloring you'd have to just put a drop or two because water is bad for resin i like to use pipettes to get this stuff down into my resin molds i think it's really easy to just suck up some resin and get it down in there so while that is filling up with resin let's mix up the pink stuff i put a few drops of the silver additive liquid glitter in here a few drops goes a long way this isn't going to do anything except make the transparent part a little bit shiny you can kind of see there it's just got some sparkles in it but for the pink what we're going to do is use this gold leaf foil that's actually pink instead of gold this pink foil is going to look marvelous compared to this teal color it will really pop with the clear stuff that's in there and since we're mixing it with clear you're going to see all the little bits of pink glitter sometimes with regular glitter it likes to just sink to the bottom of resin so i like to use this foil stuff and it's shinier and shiny is always good whenever you mix this foil stuff in there if you mix it real vigorously it will dissolve and turn into a bunch of tiny pieces which is what we're looking for big pieces won't go up into the pipettes now that we have the pipettes filled with the pink and transparent and the green and mica powder we can begin filling our molds i start with the transparent you want to do more transparent than the opaque color because if you did all opaque you wouldn't see any transparent at all so if you start with transparent and add opaque like this green stuff here you will actually see a transparent layer around your opaque resin if you put the pipette down in the very center and fill up the rest of the mold once you fill it you want to actually overfill to where there's resin up in the top of the sprue part there because any tiny bubbles that are inside the dice molds when they shrink or dissolve because of the pressure pot there's going to be a gap or a void and if there's nothing up in the top in the little reservoir it's going to pull air down into the mold and we don't want that we want it to pour more resin down into the mold you can see here as it's zoomed in when i'm filling these things up it goes all the way up to the top and we're hoping that when these things are closed and the pressure pot goes off all of the extra resin in the top is going to go down into the mold that is the goal for sprue molds and we're going to see if it works or not here in just a little bit i fill up the rest of my molds and put it in my two layer pressure pod insert i made way too much resin so there's a couple extra molds that i was filling up whenever i was doing this and so you can see them on the top there as i'm dropping this thing down into the pressure pot same thing as before tighten it up fill it up to about 40 psi and let this one sit for 12 hours until i can take them out of the molds now when you're working with these things 12 hours is the cure time but you want to leave them for 36 or 3 times the cure time before you really start doing too much with them now i'm going to show you why rubber bands are a bad idea you can see this d20 here it's a little elongated we don't want an elongated d20 we want a perfectly proportioned d20 you can see what happens here is when the rubber bands are squished around it it kind of just elongates like that it's not a very noticeable amount when the rubber bands are on there but it does happen and you can see it in the final product no big deal the molds pop right back into place and then we can do it again this time with the painters tape i wanted to show you what it was like using the rubber bands and why i prefer painters tape some people have a lot of success with rubber bands but i'm just not one of those people so i mix up the exact same sort of teal mica powder combo as well as the pink leaf foil and do the exact same set of dice that first one was just kind of a test run so that i could show you what does and doesn't work pop it in the pressure pot again 40 psi 12 hours later we have ourselves some dice now i said wait 36 hours that's more before sanding if you wait 12 hours here you can deal with things like flashing which is all this extra resin off on the side really easily because it's still kind of rubbery and this extra sprue bit here is a lot easier while it's still a little bit softer so i usually do that right at the end of the cure time you can cut those off with hobby shears and then any extra bits on that sprue part there you can cut off with the exacto knife we want to get this thing as close to flat as possible don't pull on it like that take your dice set them flat down and run the x-acto knife across it you might be thinking that looks pretty ugly that's okay we're gonna fix that with sanding all that flashing there you can usually take off just with your fingernail but if not you can use the x-acto knife as well i do that to all the dice and now we can move on to sanding when sanding i like to use a glass pane because it is super duper flat and you don't have a chance of accidentally ruining your corners when sanding that can happen really really easily so now we're going to sand using zona papers it is the equivalent of extremely high grit sandpaper going from 600 grit all the way up to their equivalent of 14 000 grit sandpaper now with these six pieces here when sanding this stuff down you can get a near glass-like polish so i cannot recommend zona paper enough for sanding dice i tape it down to the glass and we're going to follow this d4 along its sanding journey you can see that sprue mark there where i had to cut it off and it doesn't look too good compared to the other sides which looks super duper shiny and are perfect so we really only need to sand one side when sanding it's best to do wet sanding because that way the dust in the air from the resin is reduced to a minimum you do not want to get that stuff in your lungs you should always wear a respirator but it's good to always do wet sanding anyway and it prevents the resin from melting you can see there how actually rough the side got from that first sanding compared to the other side but it removed that sprue mark which is golden and exactly what we're looking for so i polish up the rest and then i can move on from one grit to the next going from the gray down to the next color onto the next grit onto the next grit as i do so i do about 50 circles in a counterclockwise and clockwise direction and that's good enough for each side and then i can move on to the next grit and you can see here when we're done that one two three side is now at a premium polish the same way that all the other sides are one two three there is looking mighty fine as is one four two i polish up the rest of the dice in the set as i'm going and now i have a completed glass-like shine on all of the dice in the set and the d6 is looking particularly nice so let's go ahead and do the final step which is inking or painting the numbers so take a small paintbrush and your color of choice i'm using auric armor gold by citadel you don't have to use citadel paints i like using them because they have a particularly high pigment concentration so it looks really good on diced surfaces also i really like gold and i think it would look good with this kind of japanese looking combo of the pink and blue that gdc has going on when i painted on i put a big glob on there but you can just wipe it away with your finger to remove any excess and you won't see any because the resin is so flat on its surface it's easy to wipe that stuff away and you won't see any excess gold if you do i'll show you how to fix that here in just a minute so i'm going to do the rest of the d6 here and i'm going to get to my actual logo which is the dice goblin which is a little bit more complex than a number no worries you can do the exact same thing just load that thing up with paint and once it's loaded with paint you can still take your finger just wipe it away and you have yourself a nice complex logo which happens to be my cute little dice goblin i've done a whole video on why i think inking color matters almost just as much as the actual colors inside the die because if i had painted this black instead of gold it would change the entire feel of the die set because it's gold it gives it this kind of royalty look and feel and i like gold so i like that you can see here on this die because there's some extra gold around the outside same with this 2 and on this 8 here it doesn't look all that good so let's finish this up and get a completed dice set i'm taking some 99 isopropyl alcohol you can also use hand sanitizer but that stuff is just as valuable as real gold right now and put it on some sort of tissue i'm using a shop towel since the excess paint is on the surface you can pretty much just wipe right across and it will come off and we've got ourselves our completed gdc gold pink and teal dice set bada bing bada boom this set looks so freaking good i am so proud of how this one came out if it wasn't for game dev con it kind of reminds me of cherry blossom trees in japan and i would call it something like cherry blossom sakura i don't know whatever but this is an awesome set and i love how the pink foil contrasts so nicely with the mica powder and the teal gdc you pick some great looking colors and i think the gold just accentuates it and i think it was kind of a merger between the pink and the teal of your colors and the gold of my favorite color so now this truly is a gdc ribonator combo set of dice and i couldn't be happier with how it turned out now i know that their font color is a dark purple but in the cap mold video we are going to do a dark purple version instead of gold so that we can see how it actually changes the look of a dye whenever you're using gold versus purple versus a completely different style or color because it really does matter a whole lot again when you're making dice and when you're first starting out you don't need all the fancy equipment like pressure pods vacuum chambers etc the first set of dice i made was just using silicone recreating some dyson pouring resin in so you don't need all this huge high dollar equipment however having that makes these really really balanced dice and you could use them in pretty much any gaming setting again this style works for pretty much anything case in point i made a giant d20 version with a larger version of my d20 that i had because i thought it would be cool and fun to do so and it was and now this is a behemoth version of the gdc dice it's about twice as big as the regular 20-sided die and i think it looks pretty awesome but in the gist of it now you know how to make dice from scratch from every single part at least on how to do sprue molds check out the other video that's coming on how to do cat mold versions because that's really nice for putting things inside your dice it's very hard to do that with sprue molds just in the nature of how sprue molds are there's not a large enough opening to put larger things down inside i hope you learned something or at the very least were entertained by the video and if you know a better way to do it please absolutely tell me i will update this with no problems because i'm always looking for a better way to do things and to improve myself i have a bunch of other videos showing different types of dice that could be made with this exact method and a ton of other fun stuff on this channel i also stream a live game of d that i'm the dungeon master for on tuesdays from 7 to 11 pm eastern standard time over at level up dice on twitch so subscribe if you want to learn how to make diy tabletop content and come hang out with us on tuesdays to win some dice of your own thank you so much for watching i hope that you have a fantastic day

Channel: Rybonator

Views: 355,501

Keywords: how to make dice, dice making guide, dice making tutorial, how to, diy dice, custom dice, homemade dice, complete dice making guide, sprue molds, how to make silicone dice molds, silicone molds, mold, dice, dice goblin, dnd, rybonator, dnd5e, tabletop, dungeons and dragons, sprue, molds, intructions, dice making, resin dice, making dice, dnd dice, pressure pot, how to make resin dice, dice tower, miniature, bag, tower, tray, dice mold making, etsy, d&d dice, gem dice, resin, silicone, d20

Id: iRDte2j54F0

Length: 30min 9sec (1809 seconds)

Published: Sat Aug 08 2020