The Complete Guide to Dice Making | Cap Molds

i'm trying to encapsulate the essence of these dice into a saying or two maybe you'll be the king of the world with these leonardo dicaprio molds nah that's a load of cap whatever i'll find a way to bridge the cap sometime until then man the hatches and prepare to enjoy these dicey treasures because i am the captain of these molds now i say dice making but this doesn't have to be limited to dice making you can make any sorts of things like small parts for gaming or even little miniatures for your games if you wanted to this is just going to be used as a dice making example because that's what i like to make i'm making two guides one for sprue moulds and one for cat molds some of the material in there actually applies to both so you may hear the same thing twice but that's because it's important if it's in both and it is core to the functionality of dice making now there are technically three types of dice molds there are open face dice molds which are really not very good there are also sprue molds and then finally there are squish or cap molds this video is going to focus on the squish and cap molds style now whenever you're making your own dice you do not need to have your own custom designs or anything like that you can make dice out of any dice that exists out there there are large manufacturers like chessex which is probably the biggest dice manufacturer and they are available anywhere hell they're available in target and you can get these dice and recreate them and make your own style with any colors that you want if you'd like to expand on it and make something that is 3d printed with your own designs you are more than welcome to and you absolutely can the dice that we're going to be using in this video are my own design that i had okami fabrications create for me i made the designs available for free if you check out my 3d printing dice tutorial video that way if you ever want to sell your dice i'm not going to sue you however there are some big dice manufacturers that if you copied theirs and tried to sell it you might get in trouble i'm also going to make something with some dice that the blue mimic made for me and we're going to 3d print them out of resin and get move in on our dice molds now in order to make silicone dice molds we need a vessel or a mold in which we are going to make those silicone dice molds if you've ever bought any metal dice they probably came in this little metal container now these are used all over and many manufacturers have them they are a decent size however for my sake i'm going to be using a set of die hard dice container not sponsored it just happens to be a little bit wider and since the dice that i made and use are a little bit bigger it gives me a little bit more room to play around with it's also a little bit thinner which causes some problems which is a good thing because i'll show you how to fix that now you can make molds or containers for your silicone molds out of anything including poster board tape hot glue cups paper plates i've done that before on my channel but i wanted to use something that we could reuse and recreate molds over and over that would be the exact same so let's go ahead and remove this lid because we're only going to be worried about this base set here now we want to take these dice and put the number that we care least about in this case the lowest number on each dice face down into the mold now before we set anything in stone and glue it down it's a great idea to set your layout and make sure everything is going to fit in the first place for this four-sided dice there's not exactly a low number so i picked the lowest face on the die to place downwards this layout enables me to have all the dice inside the mold and give enough room for there to be space between each of the dice for there to be silicone i finagle it around a little bit more to get some extra space and now we can glue them down to the bottom i'm going to use glue dots because it is extremely thin and it's really easy to get these glue dots on the face of your die and set them down without having anything that is going to permanently glue your dice down to the bottom thin is the name of the game here and temporary so glue dots work out perfectly before i used to use sculpey 3 which is a type of clay that doesn't have any issues curing inside platinum-based silicone but glue dots work just as well so why not do something that's a little bit easier and easier to clean up in the end you can see here one thing you want to make sure is that the glue dots don't go over the edge of your die they want to sit on one face and on no other ones that is key to how these dice are gonna work later so make sure that your glue dots only sit on one face place the glue dots on the face that you want to be the lowest number and place it down on your vessel now the vessel is good to go the dot shouldn't move around and therefore your dice should not move around anymore so you can start on the rest of the mold you can see here one problem again because it's so thin is those dice are really close to the top that's not great because we need there to be about half an inch of clearance of silicone over these dice so we're going to tape that up using some scotch tape this is a great bridge to extend your molds but before we do that i highly highly recommend using some petroleum jelly around the dice inside of your mold it will make getting the silicone out of there far far easier in the long run so just take a q-tip and go anywhere that isn't directly touching dice in this stage you don't really need the petroleum jelly to be absolutely everywhere any little bit helps but the more you can get in there without touching any face of your die the better if you touch any face of your die any petroleum jelly that's stuck on there will show up in the final product so just make sure you avoid doing that now we can work on increasing the height of our mold using some packing tape because silicone will pretty much not stick to anything we don't have to worry about the packing tape sticking to the silicone and so we don't have to petroleum jelly this thing up i go around two times around the top of this mold trying to make sure that there's no place that silicone or any sort of liquid could come out of the mold so make sure you're pushing along the edge as much as you can if a die or multiple dice fall out of the mold while you're doing this don't worry you didn't vaseline under it so all you have to do is re-stick a glue dot and push it back down just make sure you're not pushing it on another vaseline spot or else it could come up now we have thoroughly increased the height of this mold and we can begin pouring silicone after a little bit but to be super duper sure which i always like to be super duper about everything i take some hot glue and go around the bottom of the mold this way if there is any leak from the tape there is no way that any of the liquid is going to come out of the bottom because the hot glue will seal between the tape and the actual metal case there or whatever you're using whether it's poster board or whatever and we won't have a failed mold and a giant mess on our hands now i have some extra silicone that i know is going to come out of this and i have a giant d20 version of the ones that i used in my previous sprue mold version so i go ahead and make a separate mold out of it i glue it down to the bottom of this plastic cup which i'm planning on destroying so i don't need to vaseline it up and we can move on to pouring silicone around it for cap molds i like to use dragon skin 20. it's a lot like sorta clear except it is far more durable it's just a little bit more expensive and whenever i'm working with silicone i always like to wear nitrile gloves i don't think that there's any problem with getting it on your skin it's just messy stuff and it's really hard to get off it is a one-to-one by weight or volume mixture so i'm going to mix up one-to-one part a and part b solution to get our silicone a note of caution if you're using 3d printed materials and recreating them in silicone you can see here in this image some 3d printed materials if you're using sla which is basically using leds to 3d print in resin you're going to have a problem and you need something like inhibit x because for some reason that type of resin and platinum cured silicone do not work if you're using digital laser printed 3d prints you're not going to have a problem at all it will print and it's not going to cause your silicone to get all goopy if you're using dice that you bought at the store you're not going to have a problem with that anyway so now let's mix up part a and part b of the silicone and it is thick stuff so i just let it sit inside the cup for a little bit until it's all mixed out because i've been mixing equal parts this whole time i know an equal part is going to come out but it's always good to double check that kind of stuff because ratios really matter when it comes to silicone and resin since i have equal parts now i'm going to mix them in a bigger mixing vessel i have a giant kind of popsicle stick that i'm going to mix these things up with again whenever you're taking this stuff out of these cups you want to scrape every little bit out of there that way you are certain that you have the right ratio and right mixture dragon skin and sorta clear are kind of confusing because both part a and part b look alike so make sure that you are actually mixing part a and part b the colors of the containers are different so that's helpful but you can get them mixed up now when i'm saying mix this stuff i'm not saying just kind of swirl it together take about five minutes to mix this stuff because a unmixed silicone or unmixed resin is guaranteed to cause issues if your arm is not tired by the time you're done with this you probably didn't mix it enough make sure you scrape on the bottom and all the walls when you're doing this to really get a good mix now when you pull it up you should see no streaks as it goes back in but you will see a ton of tiny little bubbles we're gonna fix those bubbles with a pressure pot here in a minute but before we do that we have to actually pour this silicone over our molds the best technique to do this is to pick one spot and pour super slow the higher you pour the less bubbles there will be and the slower you pour the more chance the silicone will actually get into the numbers on your dice silicone is not as fluid as water it takes a little bit to actually fill up those numbers and if you fill it up too quickly there will be a giant air bubble in the number parts of your dice now a pressure pot can fix small bubbles but it cannot fix large voids like there are on numbers and we don't have a chance to kind of fix that later so it's worth it to take the time and get it right now a lot of patients here will save you a lot of work and redoing molds down the line you can see here it's great to double check your mold and make sure that there are any leaks right now because this is kind of the last chance you'll get to actually fix it dragon skin only takes 4 hours to cure so that's nice but still you want to make sure you can fix it as early as possible the rest of our silicone is going to go over our giant d20 with our little dice goblin logo over it and fill that up again we want to have about half an inch of silicone over where the last part of the dice are after both portions of silicone are poured it's time to put them in the pressure pot while they cure they don't need to cure in a pressure pot but we're going to do that to reduce the bubbles now before i go ahead and put it in the pressure pot i want to tell you what a pressure pod is and how it works because i think that's important for you to understand so first what is a pressure pot a pressure pod is essentially a giant metal vessel they're typically filled with paint to pressurize it so that you can use it in a paint gun to spray all over a house except we're going to be using it for resin pressure casting or in this case silicone at this current time i have modified mine to be used for resin work like that and i have a video showing how to do that as does zack higgins on youtube it's super helpful but again this is just a reinforced metal vessel that won't blow up depending on if you stay under the recommended pressure usage in this case this is a harbor freight pressure pot and the recommended pressure is to be under 60 psi the bulk of the changes that i did to this pressure pot come in at the lid now the lid is where we're going to be doing pretty much everything this piece here is just a three-way little intersection which shows both our pressure gauge where it will tell us how much pressure is inside the pot at any given time it shows it in psi which is mostly what we're looking for it's also got this ball valve here that i can open and close to let pressure in and a cap on the other side this stuff has to all be sealed really well either with teflon tape or some other sealant because this is using air inside and it wants to go out now it typically has a long little metal rod here that puts the pressure down in your paint but i took that off and instead we're going to use this air inlet here which typically you could take off but i like leaving it on there because it prevents the air from going down and sprays it out the side instead this way it's not shooting right down into our resin and possibly making a mess inside the pressure pot it also has the safety valve here which won't let the pressure pod actually go above 45 psi if it tries to go above 45 psi this little spring here will pull out and all of the air pressure will be released until it's under 45 psi one of the most important components you might have seen on the inside of the vessel it's pretty domed on the inside and it's not flat at all so i've created these little platforms out of nine inch diameter little wooden circles and some just wooden dowels from the dollar store it's great for setting molds on top of so that you don't have to worry about getting resin down inside your pressure pot and it sets everything flat i have a one two and three tiered one the two tier is four inches in between and the three tiered is three inches in between so that i can fit more molds in there at a time without having to worry about overcrowding just one platform or stacking molds back to the lid it has a couple other key components i marked it off in blue where these clamps go because if i tried to clamp these things down in the place that wouldn't actually fit them you can see here when i try and tighten them it is just going to hit something and i won't be able to clamp it down so once you find a good clamping spot it's really nice to have those marked off for you then you can tighten them down and you want to go as tight as you can humanly go it's really great to tighten two opposite ends at the same time to make sure you're not going to have any air leaks under the lid once that's all tightened down you have this ball valve here which you are going to connect your compressor to to let air in and then stop the flow of air entirely where you will leave the pressure pot for an extended period of time how are we going to get that air in we're going to use an air compressor i have this one from central pneumatic it goes up to 100 psi which is important because we need it to be double the pressure that we actually want because the pressure in the compressor is going to equal out with the pressure in the pressure pod so if the pot starts at zero and this one's at 80 it'll equal out to somewhere around 40. it's got these two gauges here showing the current pressure and i'm going to show how this works because right on these gauges it also has a safety valve which if i pull on will let air out the same way i'm going to put air from the hose into the pressure pot you can see here as i pull on the safety valve it pulls off some of that air and the pressure goes down from inside the compressor you can get these little hoses that have a male and female end at any sort of hardware store they come in little kits for air compressor kits and we're going to put the male end of this connector onto the female end of our air compressor after that we can hook it right up to the actual lid but be careful if there's pressure in there this stuff will fly off so you want to make sure you have a good handle on it this thing is far louder than i expected it to be now if you have a lot of neighbors maybe be considerate and don't do this late at night plan your pressure casting once we've filled the compressor up to around 80 or 90 psi all we have to do is connect the female in to our male connector on the actual pressure pot we can open up the ball valve which will let the air come from the compressor into the pot and if it was filled up this would start filling up with pressure then we'd close off the valve and we could leave this for pretty much any length of time as long as it takes the silicone or resin that you're casting to cure now let me give you a very professional explanation on how a pressure pot works now how a pressure pot works is when there's enough pressure in the vessel it actually takes the bubbles and puts them in solution with your silicone or resin to where the bubbles will dissolve in your material i like to think of it as there are a ton of giant bubbles in there and when there's so much pressure they get so tiny that the human eye can't even see them that's essentially the layman's way of how it works you can do the same thing with a vacuum chamber it creates a negative area of pressure and so it pulls any air bubbles that are in your resin or silicone up and out of the material the problem with this is you can't do this when the resin is inside your mold so i like a pressure pot because it does both jobs more easily now that you understand what a pressure pot is let's go ahead and put our silicone in there i didn't wait any time i just paused from when i started talking about pressure pots until now so that silicone is still freshly poured let's get it in the pot as quickly as possible and pressurize this thing up to 40 psi after we connect our air compressor we open the ball valve let it pressurize up to 40 psi and then we can close off the ball valve and we don't do anything we just let this pressure pot sit for the four hour cure time of the dragon skin silicone after the cure time all we do is open up the ball valve and let a ton of air out be careful because it is a strong gust of wind you don't want to have your finger on the other end of that open up the screws and we can pull out the silicone this is fully hardened we are good to go it's still squishy i say hardened kind of loosely but the silicone is cured and we can touch it we can move it around we can pull on it it's not going to have any problems because it's dragon skin it's also super duper durable for the cup mold we can go ahead and cut the cup and break it off so that we can get our mold out of there without worrying about the cup at all because it's pretty much disposable and you can see right there it did its job but for the other one it is going to be a chore and i have to get this thing out of there luckily we did do the vaseline but because there's no way for air to really kind of escape or anywhere for the silicone to go once it's compressed it takes a bit of force to get that thing out but once it's out you're golden and this is a great looking mold then we get to move on to what i consider to be the super fun stuff which is almost like surgery we're gonna take an x-acto knife and i really do recommend an x-acto knife over like a razor blade because it's just sharper and you get a little bit more control over it and we're gonna go along the edge of each of the dye that we have in here there's a little bit of excess silicone that is provided by the gap between the glue dot and where some silicone was able to get between the dice and the actual mold that we put it in and we need that silicone to be gone so going right along the edge we can take our exacto knife and cut off little strips of it any of the silicone that kind of sticks you may have to pull up and pull it away but we want this thing to be completely clean there's also going to be silicone in the lowest number place there and you want to get that out and it's a good idea to go back over some of the spots the sharper we can get these lines the less cleanup we have to do later so it's worth taking the time now for some of the dye there's not exactly a straight edge to follow so i recommend taking your x-acto knife and trying to follow the angle that the die is making with its sides and you'll get a really clean cut that way do that for the rest of the dice on the molds and you're good to go now for this one giant d20 because it has a hole in it from using it in a sprue style we're actually going to try an experiment and make a sprue cat mold combo i think we can make something really cool here that has the benefits of both the sprue and cap mold so take a toothpick and super glue it down into the large d20 that we have there and we'll come back to what's gonna make this special in a minute but during all that cutting you probably got a lot of vaseline all over your dice faces and we don't want that so we're gonna take some 99 isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip and just run that along the face of your dice this will remove most of the vaseline as long as you keep swapping out your q-tips regularly and will have a perfectly clean surface in which we can work on now that we have our clean surface we need to make registration marks or keys you can do this ahead of time if you actually place something down in your mold when you're pouring silicone but i've come across the idea of doing it afterwards and i think it actually makes for a cleaner registration mark now what that is is you're making a negative space in the silicone it's actually going to be like a guide or that's why they call it a key for when you put the cap on that way the cap goes on in the same exact place every single time all of these holes are going to be made into key-like objects on the cap that have to stick in those holes because we're making them randomly and all different sizes there's really only one way that the cap will be able to fit on there so i do it one on each side and a bunch over the surface of the mold i do the same thing on this sprue kind of cat mold combo you can see it a lot better here than you can on the other one it's hard to see when it's all one color and now we need to petroleum jelly the crap out of this thing before when i said you just need to get a little bit of the petroleum jelly on there and that's good enough that's not the case anymore you need every single spot on the surface of this that isn't a dice face to be covered you want to try and make sure you get all the corners and right along the edges especially in the registration marks the better you can do this the easier your life is going to be whenever you have to actually remove the cap so you're not going to cut into it and ruin all the work you did on the cap or possibly ruin this mold and have to start completely over that would be the worst so let's try and avoid that if we can now we're going to make an increased height kind of pseudo dam like mold like we did before with using the packing tape this time however there's not exactly a great place to stick things so you really need the packing tape to stick to itself so try and get it as tight as possible but if you want to you're not going to deform the mold because the dice are already inside there you can put rubber bands around this thing to try and make sure you're really not going to get any leaks i even go one step further whenever i do this and put packing tape around the edges on the bottom that way if it does leak it catches it in the bottom and doesn't go everywhere and it will try and reduce the amount that can leak at any given time i do the same thing for the sprue cap combo mold it's super easy because it's not very wide so i can just wrap this thing around a lot and put a lot of rubber bands on there now these things are ready for part two or the cap which makes it a cat mold or a squish mold so we're gonna make the same exact thing that we did before which is a lot of extra silicone to pour on the top to make the cap i'm making way too much silicone here but i'm making other molds in the process you're gonna see the same thing we wanna make sure we have no streaks mix it for five minutes and do the same pouring technique where you pick one spot usually the corner and pour super duper duper slow now when you pour on this one there's going to be that stick in the middle we want to make sure we over fill again about half an inch over to where even the stick is because we're going to try and make a pseudo sprue in the top pop it in the pressure pot pump it up to about 40 psi and let it sit for the entirety of your silicone secure time again mine was 4 hours after it's done i did have a tiny leak but that's why i put the extra tape down at the bottom because the leak really didn't amount to anything now when i try and pull this up you can see it sticks to the edges i was super diligent about the petroleum jelly but even then some of the edge parts there just did not want to come off but that's okay as long as the majority of it will come up we're good to go now we'll take an exacto knife and push up with the top of the mold and run the exacto knife along any sort of edge that kind of shows itself once you do that you can pop the cap off and you have yourselves your two parts of your cap mold and because of the registration marks it goes right back on the bottom part really easily you can see the low numbers which were the original bottom of our dice are there on the cat mold and the registration marks it is super snug it doesn't want to wiggle out and we can move on to our kind of sprue cap combo thing the benefits of having a cat mold is you're easily able to fit things down inside the mold the benefits of having a sprue is there's always extra resin and you rarely get bubbles inside your mold so i'm hoping that this has kind of a combo effect where that hole was from the stick that doesn't quite come all the way up we're going to cut our way down into there and create a reservoir on top where we can pour extra resin this way when the pressure pot makes the bubbles go bubbe we have a lot of extra resin to pull down and fill the rest of the mold now we can get our dice out of each of these molds which is super easy because you just push on the bottom and the dice come right out now the benefits of cap molds also extend to you don't have to cut into your dice at all so you never really have to ruin a set of dice to make these these are ready to go let's move on to putting resin inside them we always want to make sure that we're wearing a respirator that's rated for fumes and nitrile gloves because we don't want to get any of this stuff in our lungs or on our skin i'm going to be using envirotex light resin because it cures in 12 hours and it's crystal clear you can buy other resin and this one in smaller quantities i buy by the gallon just because i use so much resin always make sure you check your material safety data sheet before you find out if that resin is okay for you to use and let's get on to mixing the resin this is also a one-to-one by volume ratio of resin or you can use by weight if you want to be super accurate but i can always get a pretty good ballpark just by holding two dixie cups next to each other we're gonna dye it with ocean green and pink alcohol ink as well as add some silver additive and some mica powder in the form of macro pearl this stuff is like glitter if satan were to invent glitter because it is way smaller and it gets absolutely everywhere including your lungs so again make sure you're wearing a respirator if you're working with this kind of stuff this has the same rules as far as silicone is concerned mix it for five minutes your arm better be tired and when it's done you should have no streaks there's also tiny bubbles in there but the pressure pod will take care of that i pour half of it back into a dixie cup because i'm going to dye them separately the first one i'm going to do the ocean green and silver additive trying to get that kind of teal of the gdc colors and the silver additive doesn't do much it just adds a little bit of shine and sparkle to whatever you're using you can see here it even adds sparkle to just plain resin now i'm going to add just a few drops of this tealish green stuff this will give a really really transparent green which is what i'm going for i don't want this to be overpowering at all i want to be able to see a little bit of the pink inside because we're also going to make a not very strong pink out of this we're going to use a very small amount of the macro pearl and a very small amount of the pink alcohol ink this way the macro pearl shines through which makes this a very shiny set of dice as well as has a tiny tiny pink hue to it giving us that overall game devcon vibe now after we mix this stuff up because i'm using so little it's pretty much just gonna be a more pink glitter than it is actually a pink with glitter in it but we're gonna zoom in and do one of these little molds at a time so i can show you what it looks like i want just a little bit of that pink resin to be on the front of the six on the d6 but mostly i want this to be green so i pour the green in there and now if i pour pink on top of that the pink is actually going to stay in the center and the green is going to form up around it as long as i just leave the pink poured right in the middle which is great because i want this to be almost like a fairy or pixie type pink right in the center of this overall green dye which ends up happening so i was really happy with that afterwards i pour more green over the top and you want this thing to be overflowing with resin like those science experiments when you were a kid where you used to put water on a quarter to demonstrate the surface tension of water that's kind of the dome effect we want on this we want there to be extra resin i do the exact same thing for all of the other dice in this specific mold a little bit of pink mostly green pour pink in the center and then green over the top to kind of cap off this pink in the center of green look after we're done with that you're going to see a lot of bubbles float up to the surface normally a pressure pot will get those but with a cat mold we want to be extra sure if there's surface bubbles you can pop those with a quick pass with a lighter or a torch you want to make sure it's very quick or else it could burn your silicone afterwards i always like to put a little bit of resin on the actual caps or over the low numbers that way there's always that extra bit of resin you never want to run out then i always put this on a bit of wax or freezer paper because when you put this cap on which you're going to see here there is going to be resin that overflows over the sides and resin is far harder to get off of things than silicone so it's best to just have some sort of throwaway paper under it now don't push down on this just wiggle it into place if you push down you're gonna leave a gap in the bubbles now for the big sprue cap combo i do the exact same recipe that i did in the sprue guide since i thought this was kind of a nice combo thing and i make a pink foil and green mica powder dye and after 36 hours now normally you only have to wait 12 hours but 36 hours is for a super full cure to where these are rock hard and you can sand them we have some completed dice here these look absolutely awesome and there's only one face that you need to clean up on them if you're using a cat mold which we're going to do using zona papers zona papers are basically sandpaper to a really really high grit to where you can get a nearly glass-like shine i'm using a pottery wheel with a glass disc on it so that it is super flat and it spins incredibly fast now if i tape the zona paper down onto there it basically eliminates the need for hand sanding and i can get sanding done in like five times the speed if you're gonna get serious about dice making at all i highly recommend getting a pottery wheel it's basically a makeshift disc sander except you can put things like zona papers on there and go super duper fast i always like to wet sand because that way any of the dust that goes up and in the air generally gets stuck to the water and your resin won't overheat when sanding and melt that's always a bad deal so when we're wet sanding we just let this thing rotate at maximum speed we only have to hold this die on there for maybe about 10 seconds before it is sanded to where it is now looking pretty dull which is a good thing because it cuts off any of those extra cap marks if you need to sand more or faster just use lower grit actual sandpaper but you really shouldn't have to do that when doing this method i go through all of the different dice in the set so that should be seven on one grit which is again about the equivalent of 600 grit sandpaper and we're going to go all the way to the highest grit of zone of paper which is the equivalent of 14 000 grit sandpaper we're going for that glass-like shine all this is is taped down to a glass disk you can easily do this by hand just by going in circles on the sandpaper but you can see when we're done here this looks super shiny all the other sides shouldn't have a problem and should be shiny on their own anyway so now all we had to do was shine up that one side and we have a completely polished die here the last thing we have to do is paint the numbers which is also called inking your dice and now whenever you're painting the numbers the color you choose matters i'm going to be using nagarath night which is as close as i could find to gdc's font color and when we're painting on this i like to put a huge amount of paint on there if i get it messy that's totally okay because we now have a super flat surface on the dice if we just take our finger and rub right along the edge it should be flat enough to where there's no more paint on the outside of the die and you are good to go if you need to put multiple layers of paint you totally can i generally think one layer will do you after it dries it gets a lot darker i go around the rest of the die here so that we can see what the d6 looks like and after this dries this purple paint will look super duper dark and i'm loving this color combo you can see why i say the ink matters because now that we put the purple on this this whole set looks a lot darker which i was actually pretty happy with because the sprue set that i did was so bright and so vivid because of the gold and the pink i wanted a darker one now i'm going to go ahead and do the numbers on the bigger one and i'm going to do it the same way that i did with the sprue set because it looks closest to that and i paint it with auric armor gold if there's any extra paint on the outside that your finger can't wipe off like you can see here if you take some isopropyl alcohol put it on a napkin or a shop towel like i have here and you rub it against it there will be no more paint and you have a perfectly polished and perfectly pristine dye this d20 looks absolutely fantastic you might have seen it in a preview in the sprue dice video or this set here is blowing my mind because of how transparent it is you can see this giant swirl of that kind of pink glitter on the inside of the teal outside and because of how dark the purple inking is it makes the whole die set look a lot darker and you can see the numbers so easily from so far away this set looks both great on the display stand which man it really looks great on the display stand but it also looks awesome on the table and is super readable that's a problem with some dice if you try and go for a really matching color combination you can't actually see the numbers very easily which makes them hard to actually use in regular play so you gotta take that into account as well but overall i think both of these sets were a huge success and i hope that you enjoyed and learned something from this video or if not you at least found it entertaining thank you so much to gamedevcon for sponsoring this and showing me at their first virtual live event subscribe to my youtube channel if you want to learn how to make other styles of dice or other diy tabletop content i also stream a live game of dnd that i'm the dungeon master for on tuesdays from 7 to 11 pm eastern standard time over level up dice on twitch and i like to give away sets of dice on there pretty often so check out some of my other videos that might interest you or come hang out with us on twitch thank you so much for watching i hope that you have a fantastic day

Channel: Rybonator

Views: 214,868

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Id: 5BDVUe5osUM

Length: 30min 18sec (1818 seconds)

Published: Sat Aug 15 2020