THAT'S NOT OIL! Ford 3.7 / 3.5 Cyclone V6 Suffers Infamous Failure Mode

today I'm going to tear down yet another engine that I get a lot of requests for and I have for quite some time that is the 3.7 L durch or Cyclone V6 it is a all aluminum V6 it's found in a huge slew of Ford and Mazda products including the Mazda 6 the CX9 the MKT the police interceptor I think it's an explorers it's an all edges I could keep going on and on and on in fact I'll leave a list in the video description because I don't want this video to be that long of be talking about the vehicles this engine comes in now these engines also are offered in both front-wheel drive and rear wheel drive configurations this is a front-wheel drive example out of a 2015 Mazda CX9 came from a local dealership and was replaced because it's bad that's um what I know I don't know mileage unfortunately and as you can see it is missing quite a few parts because if you were to buy an engine from the dealership it would kind of resemble this minus the dirt and the bad part the power output of these engines range depending on the application they are in 268 horsepower to 275 in horsepower in most of the front-wheel drive vehicles at least the early 37s and they range to just over 300 horsepower especially in the Mustang and the F-150 now I've driven several vehicles with this engine both front-wheel drive and rear wheel drive the Mustangs run really well with the 37 and the engines are extremely reliable I have had one here and it took a very long time to find someone that needed it now I've heard the same thing about the F-150 because it's basically the same engine but there is one huge huge difference between the front-wheel drive 37 and the rear wheel drive 37 and that is the location of the water pump on the rear wheel drive it's external it's an external water pump and on the front wheel drive or all-wheel drive based Vehicles it's inside the timing cover driven off of the timing chain which is which is not that crazy except for when it fails it can dump coolant into the crank case and coolant doesn't make the best lubrication coincidentally the 37s that are in the front-wheel drive vehicles are very expensive you think that's related you bet the very first thing we're going to do is turn this engine over now this engine still has spark plugs in it so if it turns over it should have compression I mean they all should have compression well it gets I I feel compression and I also feel resistance that's not likely compression it's not terrible though and the fact that this engine turns over solidifies the fact that we'll get this thing apart without too much trouble I think it's important to note that this engine also shares a lot of architecture with the EcoBoost 35 and the 35 naturally aspirated engine uh those engines suffer from the same issues depending on [Music] application oh that didn't sound good it still doesn't sound good so the plugs actually all came out okay there's a little resistance with this one here but I think there's just some junk in the threads but take look at the Gap here it's huge these are likely original plugs and they're likely overdue for replacement but I don't see anything broken or cracked or damaged before we go peeling valve covers off I'm going to remove these engine hanger brackets because they're kind of in the way of removing the valve covers now this engine does not have a divorc dipstick tube it's built into the engine I'm sorry guys it's just going to be too easy let's make sure it's drained though it looks drained now we can peel this front valve cover off it's these uh tube seals spark plug tube seals creating all this resistance and this okay what's behind valve cover number one oh um well usually the failure uh takes some time to find but uh oil is not supposed to look like that so I'm not sure how well this looks on camera but um milkshake it brought this engine to my yard and uh yeah that's what happens when the water pump fails or maybe it's a head gasket problem we don't know could still be both there's no law that says there could only be one thing wrong with an engine but generally speaking if your oil looks like this you got problems next let's peel the rear valve cover off M it's like a aoca pudding in here it doesn't smell nearly as good as that though I want to say this looks better but it's the it's the same bad well I can see why they replace the engine now the real question is how bad is it and where did the coolant come from the next thing I'm going to do is tackle the front cover so we're going to start with this crank pulley already got my P set up so this should just buzz right right off nice and easy next we will remove this motor mount bracket now we have just a couple 10 mm to remove I get to go one load you know I get a lot of comments on my videos saying that they learned a lot and they feel a lot more comfortable working on their own vehicle which I just I love those type of comments but I also want to let you know that it goes two ways because there's a lot of very very smart people that work on these things every day and they put little things in the comments that I I try to pick up on and I try to learn from and this is one of them so these engines have a timing cover that is glued with RTV or some sort of sealant to the block and the heads and the last time I worked on one one of these engines the timing cover really fought me but then a couple of you said hey there's some threaded bolt holes in the timing cover that if you use the timing cover bolts if you thread them in and tighten them up it will pull that cover off of the engine so you don't have to pry on it or beat on it with a hammer or do all the things that I don't want to think that I did last time even though I did and now it should come off pretty easily and I think there's even some up here so I'll get a couple more bolts up here and then it just pulls the cover off by tightening the bolts so we're going to do that now obviously you don't want to be a turkey and go all Ham on this thing so we're just going to gently do it one at a time get a little tight just like so oh yeah you can see it's starting to come off so there's some do pins one there one there and it it really is a lot of work to get this off without doing this and now now I think I can just gosh you guys are smart that was so much easier this looks like it's in pretty good shape little milkshake oh the oil that's not oil so here is what the timing system looks like and everything looks pretty good albeit coated in milkshake of emulsified oil and coolant there is usually the culprit here this is the water pump it's driven from the timing chain and this usually leaks into the crank case however I will say that there is a weep hole right there and if you look it doesn't look like it's got a bunch of crusty coolant around it and I've seen these where they leak here first and then if it gets bad enough it'll eventually leak leak into the crank case you know if you ignore this and I I will also say that this leak often goes undetected because of its proximity to everything that's hot the exhaust it usually evaporates before it hits the ground so unless you have a keen nose and you can smell it or you monitor your coolant level sometimes you can miss that type of failure so now we're going to peel the variable cam timing stuff off of here the solenoids and then uh we'll peel the timing system off that milkshake is literally everywhere so as I remove those this is what I found running out of this oil Channel and also the oil in there doesn't look like oil so we're going to drain that in a minute uh first I'd like to get this primary chain off the first thing I'm going to do is remove the timing chain tensioner we're just going to take the bolts out and look the other way for safety [Applause] come on Blue let's just oh see that's fine it's it's not going to do anything ooh that's supposed to be oil it's like modeling clay that's hot and I think this rail can come off it looks a little broken here but I think that's how it it it's supposed to look but can you see this this uh substance is it's it's it's milky my tools are never going to forgive me for this that rail looks pretty good I guess they're water cooled so you know they can't overheat happy birthday to the ground I don't even think that broke let's get these little guys off oh those just slide off oh this seems like it's going to snap or do something crazy see it's fine look at that chain my gosh the chain of all chains that's a keeper now we can remove these little oh there are bolts and I can't get that one off until we get that off so let's just get this one off yeah that's good so this bolt is blocked by this cam gear and the water pump is blocked by this but what I'm going to try to do is take the water pump bolts out and see if I can just pull it off the Dows far enough and slide it down seems like uh I don't know you would Mount this over here in this area so you could also slide it out I'm no engineer let's try to get this water pump off filter out you know what I've done this long enough this time to get a pan before I pull this off oh I see it's a place to prob right here all right there's the water pump oh that does come around that that's good oh yeah oh that feels terrible oh it's locked up now guys it's crunchy so yes I can safely say this part is it's bad it's it's very bad and it's likely the culprit for this engine's condition so as you can see it has two gaskets one that runs along the inside and one that runs along the outside now typically if they leak into the crank case they can leak around the gasket right here but if this part fails like it has see look at that then it allows this to rub I guess that's the block at that point and these are these have clearly been rubbing on the Block and then it also doesn't turn that great it's crunchy and it gets into a bind and gets all cocked sideways I I don't think having the water pump in the crane case is a problem as long as your water pumps don't go bad but it it they do and this one has and it took the motor out well it's pretty clear that this thing's been rubbing on the Block and then if you look down here yeah that's worn plastic and maybe some aluminum there the plastic is obviously softer so that's going to wear more than the engine wood the next thing I'm going to do is trying to get the cam gears off now I don't have the Torx plus Fastener here that's at home because I didn't know that that would be like this so we're just going to try to use a t-55 and um worst case is it doesn't work see it's fine the plus doesn't mean better I think I'm only needing to remove one side and actually I'm going to remove the [Applause] tensioner do that on this side as well let's see now I know what I should probably do is remove the other side as well but we're just going to do the on side and it's off then little baby chains easy peasy now I can just remove these as well all right this is bugging me yeah it's nice the next ticket in the system is to remove C cam cap so we're going to cram these loose oh yep saw that one coming so remember when I said that water doesn't make the best lubricant or coolant I I wasn't kidding and this is usually the area that is not that worn and they're not terrible but they're also not great very rough texture that one's scratched and scored pretty well as is that now usually the cam caps will see most of the wear because that's where the tension from the Springs ends and the cams definitely have some wear that one's really grooved up we can pretty much kiss the use of these cylinder heads goodbye but I didn't pay anything for this core so I don't really care what survives I just want to make a good video for you all yeah that's not good that's not what a journal is supposed to look like supposed to be nice and shiny and smooth yep before we go cracking the head bolts loose we have a couple things to take care of there's an exterior headbolt I mean ex interior but it's exterior and then I need to remove this cam sensor because it blocks mostly blocks access to the headbolt I was going to say and it's easy to to do but who almost took out my camera now we can crack the head bolts loose I didn't need that oh it stinks smells like stale broth look okay let's see how hard it is to get this off hopefully it doesn't leak all over me well let's take a look at this head gasket these can also fail oh the head gasket doesn't look it doesn't really look that bad I think I think this part is okay well I wonder if that's for me pulling on it it's kind of got a little dent in this area but I don't think that's uh an actual problem I think the head gas gets good good oky dokie so we need to do our scientific test on the front bank I don't suspect that we're going to find anything too terribly wrong but you never know I think everything everything's connected that's a good good sign so let's take a look at these BS I can already see some vertical scratches in that one pretty bad on that side too can't really see much in the middle cylinder and there's clearly been some moisture sitting in this cylinder some more vertical scratches and pretty bad right there we've definitely seen worse but that's certainly not good look at the flavor of oil I'm going to struggle to use that term that's this cylinder head is leaving on my table it's putting the gray and gray coupon this side it looks pretty decent not that it matters but I don't see anything wrong here now we can work on the rear Bank let's cram these off the journals on this Bank don't look any better I mean we didn't expect them to right that's bad much like the other side pretty decent damage to the cam shafts and the Caps now it's hard to say how long this was running with coolant mixed in the oil I'm sure this wasn't like a perfect and then it was terrible there probably were some signs along the way probably some noises some smells probably some lights on but nobody looks yeah that one's really terrible just like the First Bank we have a few things to do like get this bolt out and remove the cam sensor this time the camera is safely out of [Music] way now see if we see anything different behind this one well head gasket doesn't appear to have any obvious problems yeah I don't see anything wrong with this let's do our test while we're in the neighborhood that's kind of what I expected now taking a look at the BS we can only really see two or one and a half there's some vertical wear I don't know how deep the scratches are I can tell that that one's going to be a little bit worse yeah right there the head looks pretty good on this side don't really see anything too wrong just like the other side you know it's just the color of the oil that's coming out of it speaking of oil let's drain the oil pan before we flip this thing over and make a huge mess well it was loose so I have hope that there's not much in here oh we had some clean coolant and then the paste and not the kind you use on your teeth I mean unless you're really strange person so yeah typically oil doesn't doesn't look like that unless there's uh some sort of coolant or water mixture it's kind of ploppy too pretty thick I'm not touching it nope well I'm going to let this thing drain a while while it creates its own Picasso in the drain pan and uh we'll come back to it in just a minute while this is draining I'm going to turn the engine over we're going to see how much resistance there is to it turning over as well as check out the other BS so we've seen this one this one and half of these two well this turns over much easier okay let's check this out so that's not good we've definitely seen worse on this channel on engines that have come apart but uh that's very pronounced that one's not quite so bad still present and that one's got some wear as well this one is by far I think the worst one and we'll get a better look at all these once we get the rods and pistons out of it well this thing is still draining so I'm going to give it a minute and uh when I get tired of watching this which it is kind of changing colors it's kind of cool but once I get tired of this draining we'll flip this thing over peel the pan off of it while we're waiting for the rest of this engine to finish squirting out its toilet water oil we are going to take the water pump apart now when I say take the water pump apart I mean we're gonna get the water pump apart because I want to see if we can find anything else wrong with it I'm pretty sure this is how they want you to do this in the manual oh I scratched it so you just take your you know your blue and you just relieve that and let's see if we can find any signs of more damage I think this is why that engine was so difficult to turn over so hopefully this comes across pretty well on camera but it looks like there's just a a plastic bushing in here obviously this is going to have bearings in it you can see something's been rubbing on the housing and still some coolant in there I'm not really quite sure how this comes apart any further I wonder if I can press this apart so this is my plan uh I'm going to turn the engine upside down and hopefully nothing hits the floor but I know that stuff's going to hit the floor well the coolant looks clean I don't know if it's supposed to be green oh there's some oil in there that'll do it's time to unbolt the oil pan [Music] man I wish there was an easy way to get all these bolts out at one time oh that was much easier I should do that from now on all right now this should just pop right off that's ugly well the inside of the pan it's got a bunch of a air bubble in it I don't think that's actually debris or those that's oil mixed in or water I it's not supposed to be there let's just go with that whatever's in here is not supposed to be in the oil pan but I don't see any chunks of metal I don't see any physical debris and pretty typical for one of these that has had a water pump fail just this slimy mustardy olive juice everywhere I think the next thing we're going to do is pull the pickup tube and we'll get this oil pump off and take it apart nothing in that and now the oil pump right figured there'd be more bolts than that slide this off the oil pump is off let's get this thing blasted apart huh well that's an interesting kind of oil pump I guess this is one of those fractional pumps we haven't seen this style before so I was I was really just kidding uh so remember last week how we tore down a hydrolocked Toyota Camry or Scion tC engine and I said you can't compress water well the same is true for the oil pump that is one piece that would also make it more difficult to turn um you know we really need to get this apart after looking over these clips I think the reason this broke is the lack of lubrication on the outer gear caused a bunch of resistance and the crank was still turning and that broke the smaller gear that's the only thing I could come up with here so as you can see this is probably one of the worst looking oil pumps we've pulled apart it's cracked right there and right there and this only happens really with a uh a lot of force and the only way that happens in the oil pump is either a massive accident where the crankshaft gets hit or the something throws a rod or multiple rods like the Dodge Ram V10 or the oil pump tries to compress water so now I'm going to should I take this apart yes I'm going to take this apart that's what we do here just going to give it a little tap just a little I don't know if that's moving it does not appear to be working you should never hammer on your oil pump gears so I just pulled apart an LS oil pump I've got the outer gear we're going to try to line this up to where I can just tap this down and everything will be just fine we're like 10% of the way there let's uh let's try to use an extension incorrectly oh that did that's the tri prick yeah this is this is a struggle what else can I do there we are yeah see you just got to think about what you're doing here hey there we go it's in a few pieces yeah so there's the uh oh hey look obviously the parts aren't in the right order no I'm not going to do that anyway blown up oil pump pretty bad you can definitely tell there's some wear as well not from swinging Hammer but just from water running through this thing the housing also has some pretty significant damage although it's hard to see there there you go that's a good look at some damage now it's time to remove the windage tray well the inside side of the crank case doesn't look too bad given everything the old wiggle test doesn't work on only harnesses I don't feel anything loose but we didn't see a lot of debris in here so didn't really expect to see that so I think the next step is going to be to take the rod and pistons out we're going to start at the front it's always cleaner that way we're going to go all the way to the back get all six out still doesn't turn over very smooth oh okay I'm actually going to turn the crank over to push that piston to the top of the boore and then I'll probably go the other way now we're just going to keep going and push the other one to the top of the board I'll make things a little easier what is happening something is unhappy here oh I think I see what's happening I think the edge of the connecting rod is getting caught on the Block so if I straighten that out it's actually something it needs to turn the crank for and maybe here we go and then there were two let's turn this crank over and push those to the top of their boar let's get these off before they fall I'm going to start using my brass drift these out I can't say I'm surprised condition of these rod bearings leaves a lot to be desired they are all pretty evenly bad some are slightly worse than others but this is all signs of uh lack of lubrication whether that be lack of pressure from a blown apart oil pump or water which is not the best lubricant I should say coolant because it's not water the rods and pistons well the rods look okay I think those are all right the Pistons have some pretty heavy skirt wear pretty much uniformly across oh that one's actually much worse coating's gone and I would bet wow that we're going to see signs of this on all of the cylinder walls let's remove this rear main seal plate so I'm not quite sure if that's going to fit it'll fit we'll just uh do one of these numbers on it yeah see I'm pretty sure they don't tell you to do this in in the manual but it's fine now it's time to remove all the main cap bolts start with these first now let's see if we can get this crank out well the crank journals the rod journals aren't as bad as I expected but I bet there's still some wear that would need to be polished out and it's also been my experience and I've talked about this in the past that Ford crankshafts are not expensive new which means that used crankshafts that may need a little work are typically just scrap but the main bearings those look pretty bad especially that one all signs of oil starvation or lubric lack of lubrication I should say let's take a look at these bores so there's definitely some vertical wear some scratches I I ran my fingernail over these and they're not terribly deep which leads me to believe that they will clean up some of them are deeper than others this one was pretty deep you could feel that one just barely and this one was the really bad one you could absolutely feel those now they might clean up with some machine time but I don't really think I want to sell this block people don't really rebuild these especially from this state this will likely end up in the scrap bin I think you can see why these engines get a pretty bad wrap now if you have a rear wheel drive based an F-150 or a Mustang I really wouldn't worry about this this isn't a type of failure that those have because again they have an external water pump I'm sure those engines do fail but like most of the engines on this channel is from abuse or neglect and that's that's the exception not the rule but the front-wheel drive based and I'm not trying to create a bunch of fear because these there's a lot of these vehicles out there they're in a lot of different cars there's a few things you can do to keep an eye on it you can monitor your coolant level if you start losing coolant uh if and it's not smoking out of the tailpipe or you monitor your oil level and all of a sudden the oil fairy added a quart of oil since the last time you checked it no there's something else in the crank case outside of that and your the smell and checking your driveway for spots that's it now this one was probably making a bunch of Racket for some time although this could have been going down the freeway with the music up and maybe this only took a short period of time to do this kind of damage as soon as the oil pump blew up I'm sure all kinds of things light lit up in the dash either way uh there's a line in the sand that has to be drawn if this happens to you because this does happen pretty frequently that's why the demand is what it is for these engines and that line in the sand is whether you replace the engine or you put a water pump and timing chain in it now it's a lot of Labor either way and if you buy a used engine you should definitely do a water pump and chain before you put the engine in but where do you draw the line as far as what's okay and what's not going to last I would hate to do this job peel the timing cover off or drop the engine out to do that and then 6 months later it spins a rod bearing or Chucks a rod because it did damage in that process or maybe you have low oil pressure because it wore the bearings and then what are you going to do check the rod bearings pull the pan do all kinds of work to find out that you're going to put an engine in it anyway I think the more I'm exposed to these engines the more I go straight for engine replacement I know that may not be the cheapest way to do it but nobody wants to put an engine in twice so I hope you enjoyed this tear down and learned a thing or two if you'd like to buy any parts out of this thing which the oil pan valve covers timing covers pretty much it everything else is going to go in the scrap most likely uh or if you want to buy part s off of this beautiful 95 fleetw I love these cars I'm going to leave our email in the video description you can also go to import apart.com and peruse our inventory I've been uploading our pars cars just about every single week as always I love all the comments all the feedback and even the criticism I love it all and I'll catch you on the next one ah yes it's time to see what we can do with this water pump so one thing I did notice when I was moving this around is if you it's a moraca now so now we're going to try to remove the shaft I don't know how this is going to go but I have some ideas I could chalk this up in the Press but we're going to try something else you uh water pump sympathizers might want to look away from your screen it's going to be fine oh I hope I didn't hurt it this seems safe you know what I know what the problem is I just needed a bigger Hammer a that's not what I meant by coming apart but hey we actually it's it's it's getting there we're not out of the woods yet this will be fine I guess I could swing it hard I'm scared to swing it hard what's the Worst That Could Happen yeah it could come back and hit me in the face I suppose surprisingly it still turns over I think I might have fixed it cuz it turns all the way over now I'm starting to feel like Gallagher I think the Press could have been a better decision I think I might throw in the towel here cuz I don't see how we're going to get this part but we're going to try one more time okay I'm done sorry guys I tried

Channel: I Do Cars

Views: 259,407

Keywords: Ford, Mazda, Duratec, Cyclone, 3.5, 3.7, F150, Mustang, Taurus, Ecoboost, Water pump, timing chain, bad, Engine, Motor, I Do Cars, Mechanic, Mazda 6, Cx-9, Flex, Lincoln, MKT, MKZ, MKX, Fusion, Edge, Explorer, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, Continental, Truck, Exhaust, Repair, Timing cover, Turbo, Bad Design, Replacement, Coolant in oil, misfire, diagnosis, teardown, Tune, Stage 1, Blown, Failed, Problems, issues, Towing, Fuel mileage, How to, removal, Transit, Duratec 35, Duratec 33, Duratec 37

Id: Bnhnvkb7KUc

Length: 40min 1sec (2401 seconds)

Published: Sun Oct 08 2023