Tektronix 2465B 2467B CRT Adjustment CAL 08

eight tubes were you guys falling along in the 2465 Bravo calibration series we're gonna go ahead and do this today this is the first procedure that they actually have you do using the diagnostic mode getting into the caliper count what they call the cow mode so we're going to be in this manual here you can look it up online you'll have to make sure you look it up by that number on the bottom there I'm going to be on page 5-7 and this assumes that you've done the voltage checks and the DAC adjustments one thing that I want to point out is that Cal eight is designed to be done in the per the manual before Cal one through Cal seven and then Cal nine why they did it that way I don't know so if you're looking to do Cal one through Cal seven and then do Cali and then do Cal nine I don't recommend it that's not what's in the book it even talks about it a little bit in the book so make sure that you do this procedure the Cal eight before you do the rest the first Cal eight you come to is not on page five - seven it's actually on page five - four if you look at the top there it says 2467 problem you don't want to be there if you have it 65 you want to be on this page here five - seven again where it actually says 24 65 Bravo you can do the checks on the other one but you're going to be looking for some pots and looking at signals you don't need to look at to do it for the 2465 the other thing is is make sure you have the right calibration equipment you don't have to use the called out equipment like in here because most modern equipment will easily meet those standards but the thing is you have to have the equipment and that's what this procedure is about is I use substitute equipment rather than using the called out equipment because my shop didn't have that in that that older equipment it's good equipment it's just that there's more modern equipment out there so let's go ahead and get to it okay now that we've established the actual Kao order I wanted to show you that we're actually in Section five I don't know if I made that clear earlier and see this is where we're at over here and that's on page five one of section five before you actually start the cow one through cow eight you have to move the jumper on P 501 to the cow position which is pins two and three two and three of the p51 of the are the back two pins of the three pins and you have to do that before the powers turned on one thing it does tell you is that you know when you've completed the procedures to move it to the no cow position what it doesn't tell you right here is that you have to turn the power off and then move the jumper before you turn the scope back on it doesn't tell you in the textronics manual but it does tell you in the army manual and I think I can put like a little quick inset of that here all right here's the army manual I was talking about so you can look up the army manual by this number right here and that is the 21 October 2002 version if you go over to this part and go down to sections and go down to section 4 which is the menu for calibration process it talks about the different steps and things you can do so let's get down to the actual page where I was showing you about where it tells you to move the jumper before you turn the power off this is the locations of things alright here we are it's on page 41 of the army manual and that's 24 alpha which tells you to oppress the a/b trigger which gets you out of Cal Diagnostics and back into regular scope operation then you have to turn the power off and then move the Cal no Cal jumper into the no Cal position if you don't do that then you will lose your Cal stuff that you just did so you can see that it's not really talking about it in the textronics manual but it does talk about it in the army manner so let's go ahead and proceed with the video on Cal step back here okay here we are back at page 507 you know five tax seven and right here I'm telling you to make sure to check that Pete 105 and I'm going to show you where it's at right here on this go it's right here on the a5 card if you have the older car I think the newer cards pretty much the same place and here it is right here notice there's three pins of the two pins in the back pins two and three are towards the back of the stove in one is the actual note Cal so we're gonna flip the page here and I'm telling you to go ahead and pull the jumper move to the pins towards back yeah the same thing it's just a reminder I'm showing you in the book where it's at and that was on page 5 tech 1 at section 5 right now we're actually going to get down into here and go ahead and do the actual procedure the first thing you need to do is go ahead and turn the scope on and wait for it to power up and it's gonna go through its little checks and all that stuff and then you're gonna pull up with a screen all right now you're gonna see that it says it's got a test fault it has any faults it'll automatically display then you have to push the trigger to get out of them but since my scope has this we're gonna have to do the calibration now to get into cow eight actual test procedure here more step sub steps you need to push the Delta V and the delta T and then push the slope you can see right here on the right with my little finger there alright notice it says all now instead of that test ball if you want to get out of it you just push that a B trigger and that'll get you out of it but we're not going to do that we're going to go ahead and scroll down here and you can use the mode button there and scroll down and you can see you can get the callee you can go to cali the other way but you just got to go through a whole bunch of other stuff it's just easy to scroll down okay we right here I'm just telling you about the trigger coupling button if you push up at increments and goes to the next step and if you push down it goes to the previous step so we need to press that upper trigger button to get into all the sub steps in count eight so here we go and you'll notice that it actually entered Calot here because the cow on bottom disappeared what we're going to do here is we're gonna try to match that little dot up there and we're going to be using the grid bias here which is that right there and what they want you to do is turn the scale Illumina zation down that's the grid pattern there and all those orange things right there they want that all the way down and out of the way so it doesn't interfere with anything now we're gonna go ahead and adjust this grid thing but let's find out where it is first so we're gonna go over here you're gonna notice it's gonna give you a diagram of a board there and that's on the sided scope and you can see the components there because in the drawing they have the shield off but in actuality the shield is actually on it so but it's okay just follow the lettering there even though they don't have resistors mark and you can see you can actually see that there so you don't really need to adjust it if you can see it because the whole purpose of adjusting it so you can see it so that in the next step you can go ahead and move it which is what we're gonna do so now we're going to use the X&Y for channel 1 and channel 2 to move that that trace around let's get over there I just put it up on the screen because some of these things that go pretty quickly now normally when you use the positions there it's for vertical but it's under computer control now because it's in the cowl 8 now we're going to go ahead and we're going to use our little tool here since we read the instruction I already know what's coming up you guys now it's actually going to tell us to match the intensity of that little dot that we put towards the bottom of the screen down [Music] and so you can see it disappearing and then come back up and then I figured that it's close enough and I want it to be the same as you can see I threw that up on the screen there too and you can get those little Tweaker tools they usually come in probe tips and stuff probe kits you can still buy them out Johnny you really don't need that tool you can use an insulated screwdriver like a little Tweaker and stuff so we're done with that part so now we're gonna go ahead and we're gonna hit that with couple of button okay now we're gonna go ahead and move on to the next test which is we're going to look for a dim lock dim dot and we're gonna do some intensity and stuff like that all right so we go over and read the instructions and they tell us to turn the scale Immunization all the way down so we're gonna go ahead and do that and that's for the grid pattern they're the orange things then we're going to check that the dot is visible near the center and there it is right there really it's it's pretty dim but it's fairly easily visible you can see it right there so then they want us to turn the intensity all the way fully counterclockwise which we're going to do here still there and you notice when I turned it down it disappeared and I didn't really go back and show it so I'm doing it here and if you actually look really really super close you can actually see it and I didn't notice it until after I did the videotape on this and if we go to the next step it tells you that if it didn't - go ahead and repeat the test and then it - repeat the test you hit the lower trigger coupling button and it'll take you back one step remember I talked about that a little bit we can do that but if it was good go ahead and hit it and we're done with that step so now we're on to the next one here [Music] okay moving on now we're gonna do the trace rotation focus an Aztec and some geometry in these tests here and we'll go ahead and show you where those pots are you're on that same circuit board they're on the side of the scope which is your high voltage board right there so let's go and those are the PDF pages I was using multiple PDF pages so that's why you see multiple ones it really depends on which ones you're using I like to use PDFs on stuff by art tech media you can look them out they're pretty good guys really nice too so anyways we're gonna use the vertical position control and we're gonna set that we're gonna set that channel one trace right there in the middle and I'll usually like to set it right under the line that makes it easier to see when you're making adjustments and we're getting is the Delta cursors or the vertical one using those two right here that's those two and we're gonna move on close to the center always one [Music] and we're gonna play with that a little bit with the intensity control and this I didn't understand it asked us to do it and nothing happened it just controlled the intensity that's it didn't do any lineman nothing it was just kind of weird so I did it anyways yeah that's me saying what the heck over all right so we're gonna do the trace rotation now and that's right here on the front you can use that little Tweaker nope and you can see them moving a little bit out of time see if I think I zoomed in here yes I did if you look real close you can see it moving side-to-side I even put a little inset there for you okay good so the rotation is done now we need to adjust the Y alignment and this is where it's at right here fourth one over on the 67 Bravo they'll actually be a pot in that middle on that porthole one two three and then there's four here the fourth hole right there is for the 67 Bravo not for the 65 problem there's an extra adjustment in there something all right so here we go so now we're gonna tweak this look at it look at it twist there two guys kiss that you rang in the background it was a one of my co-workers ringtone it's kind of funny and of course it just does you repeat it until you get it the way you like it alright then we're gonna go ahead and adjust the Aztec four and the focus there for the best display that we can get the sharpest display it really gets kind of funky here if you play around with these two months if it's already good I really don't recommend you play with it but you know since I was in here and I hadn't done it before with the scope the scope was already broken I decided to play with it and actually improved it a little bit just slightly and you play around with these and it does get better and then later on we're gonna be using some geometry and some other things on the high focus the edge focuses all kinds of stuff and it'll sharpen it up it's actually not too bad right now it could be better as we the more I play with it the better it got and that's the purpose of the adjustments here this doesn't really affect actual calibration this just affects the traces and stuff you know the adjustments on the CRT hence the title count late CRT adjustments the voltage mints and frequencies and all that that comes later see what we can't do here we're gonna move stuff I believe over the edge let's get this into the geometry there we go I usually like to just set it in there all right now we're going to move these over towards the edge [Music] and you can see it's already got a little bit of a curve on it right there on the left now when I do this notice the focus and the lettering and stuff on the bottom of the scope you can see it kind of warp a little bit and start to change and get fuzzy and that's where you start playing around with your edge focus and your as to your regular focus in geometry you just start playing around with all those things you just got to kind of go back and forth and then it works out pretty good [Music] it's really a matter of taste there's always a little bit of trade-off on them you'll never get it perfect unless you just got like a super CRT that everything was just great when it you know was built that's that's not always the case although Tektronix did have a lot of scopes that were in my opinion from using scopes over here is pretty near perfect so I'm just talking about here we've been things around and showing you the distance and I think one of them was a little fuzzy yeah as you can see on the top right there so I started playing around with a little bit more the edge focus and those pot numbers are in the book in those diagrams you can see they'll see they kind of cleaned up a little bit remember that the one on the right was all like super fuzzy and Fuzzy's out like a van and now it's not too bad now it's pretty sharp and I'm sorry about that I bump the camera back over and I start playing around with the focus and the a stick again and the weird thing is is when you play with those it changes the letters to the script on the screen it'll change the focus where you can have a good trace but then your lettering is kind of out and vice versa so you just kind of got to go back and forth and play with it until you get what you want and sometimes like I said it's not perfect sometimes you just really got to go at it if your scope like I said before if your scope doesn't really need it don't play with it just leave it alone just call it good and push the upper trigger button upper trigger coupling button and it'll move into the next sub step and it's just me kind of going back and forth and back and forth and I finally I decide yeah it's good now if I want to leave it there and some of its camera focus - you can tell which is you can look at the silk screen the black writing where the knobs are it's a little bit out of focus so it's not necessarily the screens out of focus it's the camera out of focus we're here this is where I tell you like you know adjusting the focus as to geometry edge focus and pretty much all that other stuff and get a pretty good looking scope here yeah I called it you're tired of playing with it [Music] and they're telling me to take this channel too and move it off the screen so I bounce it around a little bit for you guys to see it's off the screen there we go all right on to the step now now telling me to connect 50 kilohertz eight visions on the scope I didn't have one of those so I set a 5700 calibrated and approximately two hundred and eighty millivolts and I found I ended up with eight divisions on this grant it's full screen top to bottom by the way eight divisions you see it's not too bad the focus and the geometry and you know all that stuff is it too bad [Music] and it just tells you to keep going back and forth until you get it the way you like it and I did so then it says get pulled off so we're done with the cable there and we kind of did that stuff already repeat this necessary you just make sure everything's working make sure it stays in focus and then we're done with that and we go ahead and push the upper trailer coupling button and we're done with that sub step and on to the next one all right we're gonna go ahead and we're gonna adjust the height focus here which is that pot and I didn't have a leveled sine generator so I used 86 Bravo which is a pretty much a Cal standard for a lot of labs and stuff they're quite old but they work extremely well and they're still quite expensive to boy if you ever had to pick one up they're all they weigh a ton darn things will break your backs now it actually asked for 10 megahertz and I used 50 megahertz I don't remember why and but it seemed to work and what I'm doing here is I've got it connected up but I didn't have six divisions and since I didn't have the called out equipment I didn't know what the level was so I turned it way down and what I'm doing here is I'm turning the level up to make sure that I have six divisions and for this particular generator to turn to have to be leaf point four dB so right here I've centered up the vertical on the scope for the six divisions with the power and everything and I'm getting ready to do the next test which is they actually want me to just adjust it for overall focus so and I remind everybody I moved it to the edge so I could get a good view on that in retrospect I probably should have just left it centered up instead of on the edge I don't know if it made a difference or not to do I don't know so anyways this is where it was I went to hit the pre-staged my Tweaker I like to do that so what I'm getting ready to do the step I don't have to go back and reread it's already set in there and I can look at the screen and go so here I am I'm just adjusting up the focus and if you'll notice that the focus actually changes different from the trace I don't know why it's going to do that but they do but if you get the geometry and everything right they'll be pretty doggone close and it's just a matter of preference if you just want to go back and forth to keep doing it yeah they asked me to leave the cable on but it also asked me to push the upper trigger which I just did and now we're gonna do some looks like dynamic centering display on the graticule so let's go see what's on the screen here best I remember it's a bar once you turn it up not was it a borrow you ever so let's go back here let's ease intensity okay oh that's right they wanted me to play with this pot right here yeah just for kicks I took you over to where it's in the diagram so you get a little bit of used to actually seen on the scope seeing it in the write-up and then seeing it on the diagrams themselves physical diagrams and what that's right they wanted me to adjust it sideways and up and down and it was good so I went ahead and left it okay there we go disconnect it if it's good and hit the upper here we go I did that if you have the trigger button so we're kind of done with that step or that sub step and on to the next one we're gonna do vertical dynamic centering you know if I'm going too fast where you guys here just go ahead and pause the video and you know if you need and it's the back part there by the way and if you look real close you're gonna see the dynamic center use for the running two traces in the one and they want to make sure that the division between them is fine so you can see it right here at some adjusting and one of them is actually brighter than the other one it's kind of hard to see on the video but it is so I'm gonna get done with that I want you to press and release the covers and that concludes now eight which is your CRT adjustments right there book and you can tell because I have to hit the button you end up with a Coleen on the bottom we've pretty much done it so that leaves one thing left and that is if you remember at the start you have to actually tell the computer to put the cows constants in you do that by pressing the a/b trigger and then you turn the power off and then you put the jumper over to the note cow then you can turn it back on and check it make sure everything's where it's supposed to be so I put a little screen splash screen up here pretty soon and it says Congrats kids you have just performed Kelly CRT and justice they include the XY and z axes trace rotations focus as too fast right hi folks geometry and a bunch of other alright yep there it is it's actually took a couple days for me to go through and film this and go back and forth and just you know have fun with it kind of learn it and edit it and get it all up for you guys so if you guys appreciate it just give me a thumbs up if you know more about this procedure by all means drop me a line and tell me what I did right or what I did wrong or if anything didn't matter that I did that I shouldn't have done like the 50 or the ten megahertz but at any rate I want to say thank you guys for watching I don't know how many more of these are going to put up these these doer they're they're quite labor intensive a lot of back and forth I actually did these videos I think it was two or three years ago and I just started going through and decided to put a couple of them up the ones that I didn't think really mattered that much for calibration but might matter too so you can learn more about your scope in the process so anyways I want to thank you guys again for watching god bless you all and keep done yeah

Channel: Keith Noneya

Views: 3,855

Rating: 5 out of 5

Keywords: Tektronix Oscillscope, Tektronix 2465B, CRT Alignment, How to calibrate your oscilloscope, How to adjust your oscillscope, oscillscope crt, Tektronix 2467B, Tektronix CRT Adjustment

Id: cedLp2itV-I

Length: 28min 10sec (1690 seconds)

Published: Fri Apr 12 2019