Super realistic Gondor ruins for MESBG ~ terrain tutorial

[Music] foreign hey guys I'm Adam Hague from 3D games and in this video I'll be showing you how to make awesome looking ruins for your tabletop War gaming using simple steps this will be the first of a series of videos in which I've built Terrain in preparation for the upcoming Battle of the skillyth box set so make sure to hit that subscribe button and hit the Bell so that you don't miss any of my future releases and as always if you appreciate this content then please hit like and drop a comment below I really appreciate it helps me with my motivation now these ruins were made specifically for Middle strategy battle game themed around the city of Oz Gilead the same techniques can be transferred for any fantasy setting the Reuben city of Boss Gilead is an iconic location in tolkien's Middle Earth and an excellent Battlefield to fight over the old ruins of Middle Earth set has recently been re-released although as per usual the price hike is crazy especially for us poor folks down in Middle Earth thankfully I already had a set that I'd assembled and primed with army painters skeleton bone years ago when it was first released firstly arrange the ruins into a configuration that you like and then draw your boundary this is where you will cut be sure to leave yourself space for a tapered Edge and any debris that you want to include the MDF I used for this is 4.75 millimeters thick and it's very easy to cut with a jigsaw next taper off the edges with a sharp retractable blade making sure to cut away from you this will help blend the ruins into your board more naturally I then went ahead and painted the base then decided to texture instead making this step redundant to do this spread poly filler in a thin and even coat over the entire top of the base use a spatula to make it smooth and an even thickness mine was roughly two millimeters thick you can wait for this to dry then scratch in a stone pattern but it's a lot faster using a textured roller like this I used the pavement texture rolling pin from green stuff world leave it for 24 hours or until completely dry then it's ready for painting I wasn't happy with how it looked on my first painting attempt because it didn't match the color scheme for my ruins so I sprayed the pavement texture with the Army painter's skeleton bone I then over brushed the whole area with a light gray color followed by dry brush of white this really helps to bring out the texture of the floor to help add realism use highly watered down paint or inks to create a withered and stained look I used black convert umber for this now it's time to paint the ruins themselves I found it easier to paint these separately before gluing them to the base but this did come with its own issue as you'll see later in the video start by heavily dry brushing the ruins with a light gray color work thoroughly over all the surfaces of the stone work brushing from all angles to make all those raised details stand out it's easy to miss patches particularly in the archways and windows so try to be methodical and check over each piece before you move to the next step next dry brush again this time with white and in a downwards motion the aim of the game here is to simulate the way sunlight would naturally hit the upper portions of the ruins and the raised surfaces in a downwards Direction step should really help accentuate the edges of the ruins and help the details pop now it's time to get messy use washers highly watered down paints or inks to create a weathered finish load your brush then dab the paint onto the ruins letting it run down the surface doing this all over the ruins will help to create more depth in the recesses and give the details more definition this part is also where what used to be plastic starts to turn to Stone as if by Magic the wooden planks were then painted with Citadel Wildwood contrast paint I thinned it down with some contrast medium so that the raised details of the wood grain would stand out as a lighter color The Next Step will really bring these rooms to life using Citadel ethonian camo shade paint a few random areas where you would imagine algae and Moss might grow certain recesses and cracks on the corners of Ledges and steps don't go crazy with this just a few here and there will create the desired effect now that the ruins are painted it's time for the fun part blue stuff heat it up in boiling water you could speed this up by putting it in the microwave for 30 seconds just make sure it's in water once it's soft and pliable it's ready to use remember that you're working with boiling water here and it burns probably a good idea to wear gloves tear off Blobs of blue stuff to use and mush it down into the details you're wanting to clone it generally works best by working it into the deeper recesses first then working your way out from there with the second stature I simply pressed it firmly into a blob of blue stuff then pressed in the edges it actually worked really well and was a lot simpler next it's time to clone some Stone arches this time I learned my lesson and actually wore gloves gather A Great Big Blob and an oven tray and squish it down flat then press the sections of ruins firmly down into the blue stuff we will be pouring casting plaster into this mold later so you want to make sure all the edges are raised to avoid plaster running out everywhere [Music] pushing the bolts into the fridge will help to cool them faster so they're ready to use then simply peel the blue stuff molds off and see how well they worked my statue molds had a great big gap at the bottom so I used some blue Tech to plug them up for casting time to pour some plaster this is much the same as using Rock molds which you can check out by clicking the card in the top right corner mix your casting plaster as per the instructions I mix 250 grams of plaster with 150 mL of water before pouring in the plaster it's a good idea to spray some soapy water over your molds this will help make it easier to separate the plaster from the mold later to make some general Rubble pour any leftover plaster into an oven tray and smooth it out to an even thickness this should only take a couple of hours to set and then you can pop out your casts carefully peel away your mold working slowly to avoid breaking anything as you can see here the plaster spilled into the archways which then needed to be carefully broken off the main shape take time to carefully clean up the edges to get rid of any mold lines carefully pop out the statues you can see here how well the blue stuff catches those details pop the plaster out of the oven tray onto a firm surface then use a hammer to smash it into bits keep smashing until you achieve the scale you want for your Rubble it's good to have a variety of shapes and sizes to use foreign [Music] ly time to stick the ruins to the base to do this I use super glue along the bottom edges with a couple of blobs of hot glue the hot glue holds the ruins in place while the super glue will create a solid Bond I changed my mind with the Statue location because I wanted more room for a collapsed statue to create this I used one of the plaster car statues and fixed the pieces to the base with PVA surrounded by some pieces of rubble [Music] more piles of rubble were added by using PVA and scattering the broken bits of plaster I wanted to create the impression that the corner section of the archways of this ruin have collapsed to do this I used the plaster cast archways that are broken to chunks and glued them into place to create further texture sprinkle coarse sand around the areas of rubble adding chunks of plaster to the Upper Floor will help tie it all into the overall look I also wanted to create a means for soldiers to clamber up to the second floor so I used a broken section of archway this was glued into place with the hot glue gun I then apply a generous amounts of super glue to the larger chunks of plaster to fix them in place securely to color the plaster ruins I used the lipid spot technique applying spots of burnt Umber and ocher followed by a wash of black these colors were sealed in place by spraying the ruins with matte sealant this also helps to fix everything in place [Music] I wasn't happy with how this looked and in hindsight should have painted it all together with the plastic ruins this would have been a lot easier to achieve a consistent look finish painting the rubble in the same way as the plastic ruins with a dry brush of light gray followed by white once again ethonian camo shade adds a level of grimy realism [Music] next apply a mix of tile grout and soil with PVA see how I make this mix by clicking the card in the top right place this all around the edges of the base and around sections of rubble this creates a lovely realistic looking ground cover and helps blend the base of your ruins into your gaming board you could use whatever color tile grout suits your scheme for example a light gray colored grout might work to really blend with your Rubble [Music] foreign brush to brush the tile grout mix off the sections of rubble so it doesn't obscure the details [Music] go over key areas sprinkling coarse sand little bits of gravel and here I use geek Gaming's City rebel base ready this helps to add further texture foreign next seal everything in place by spraying all the ground cover with isopropyl alcohol followed by a spray of matte sealant the alcohol allows the sealant to penetrate all those layers of Aggregates rather than just forming a film over the top layer after leaving the ruins to dry it's time to start adding some details I didn't like this section of the walls it looks like it's meant to be a joining section and the stone pattern randomly ending like that looks stupid so I decided to cover it up with some dead foliage the perfect solution jtt Drive vines or you could use any fibrous material that gives the impression of a dead or dry climbing plant these were fixed in place by dabbing small amounts of hobby Tech onto key fixed points on the walls wait until the glue becomes clear and tacky then press the fibers into the glue look [Music] the hobby Tech will hold the foliage in place and can then be fixed firmly with spray of matte sealant then stick a bunch of grass Tufts to the ground cover grass Tufts tend to look better when applied in groups [Music] stick them all around in between chunks of rubble and The Odd Couple popping up Within the Ruins themselves this will create the impression of nature reclaiming the land of an ancient ruined decayed by the passage of time [Music] and here it is ready to provide cover for the beleaguered forces of Gondor once again towards the end there I was hit with crippling indecision as I tried to work out whether I wanted to include Moss or not I decided I'd go with the dry look because I felt like it suited the kind of the warm tones that I use the aesthetic that I used it has been pointed out to me that it may not fit thematically with the city of Los gileaf being a River City you would expect quite a bit of moisture and and Moss to to grow I suppose the way I get around that is I'm going to say that this is one in a ruin on the outskirts of the city where it's perhaps a bit more dry it could even be used as a ruin in a philion all in all I'm really happy with how it turned out particularly the plaster cast uh statues and arches and I'm really excited about continuing with this to try and build a entire ausgilia themed game board thanks for watching and good hobby and guys

Channel: 3D Games - Wargaming & Terrain

Views: 13,277

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Id: 3iilLwx5oUY

Length: 15min 4sec (904 seconds)

Published: Fri Oct 07 2022