Strike Industries Polymer 80 Build

all right we're ready for our first time quality strike 80s build so what we have here is a pf 940c the strike edition right this is a glock 19 frame and what i'm going to actually do today is put a 17 slide on top so i'm going to show you how to do a long slide in this build as well and this is the new swamp fox wolverine slide and also have a champion barrel made by blacklist industries okay and i have some springs as well so i'll cover some of that when we get to the assembly but really what i'm going to focus on today folks is doing proper frame to slide fitment and it's so so important that once we've drilled our holes and we've clipped our tabs before we go ahead and first time quality everything on the frame that we're stopping and we're checking our pin fitment we're checking the pin fitment to the frame the pin fitment to the rear rail and the front locking block and that we have the front locking block and the rear rail leveled and ready to accept our first time quality upper so that's really what i'm going to focus on today so let me put some of this aside and i'm going to cover really quick with you the dremel workstation and setting that up to drill the holes okay so you have your standard jig uh it is a polymer edge it's just stamped with the strike industries logo on it so we're gonna put our frame in you're gonna go ahead and tape this up obviously but for demonstration purposes i just want to cover really quickly your dremel workstation so on your dremel workstation i'm going to use a 7 64th precision bit to do my three millimeter holes and i'm going to use a five thirty seconds brad point dremel bit to do my four millimeter holes the most important part is to make sure that we're getting halfway through that frame right so we're coming in and we're gonna drill that hole and we want that bit to come halfway through i want several pieces of the flute of the bit to go through the frame have a really nice drilled hole but i do not want the body of the bit to go into the frame make sense so that comes down to my death stop all right right here i have a little knob that helps me adjust where to stop the plunge and what you want to do is set it so that both of those flutes on this bed at least two full flutes get through the frame but then i'm not hitting the body coming through all right makes sense and then as far as speed is concerned a dremel variable speed will usually go up to 30 000 rpms uh if you only have a two-speed dremel it'll be a low speed at 15 and a high speed at 30. and so kind of the general rule around that is the more comfortable you are uh using a dremel using a workstation the higher you can go and plunge but if you're using brad point bits in the right [ __ ] you can actually get away with getting through the frame with no problems at a lower speed and so if your confidence isn't high or it's the first time you're using a drama workstation you want to keep it down into that 20 range okay you want to come down a little bit it's also important that the bits are absolutely true and straight because if there is not and there's any wobble at all and you're at that high speed you're going to get dremel whip and it's going to go ahead and melt that hole so what i'm going to do is i already have this precision bit from the 628 dremel kit in that we're going to do our three millimeter holes with okay and as you can see i'm plunging down too far here so i need to adjust my knob for the correct depth so i want to be able to stop right there i'm halfway down using the flutes of the bit so that's exactly where i want to be so that's where i'm going to tighten my depth adjuster knob right there okay so now when i plunge i can't make a mistake because it's stopping me at that point i can't go all the way down all right let's push this aside for our four millimeter holes which is our trigger pin again i'm gonna be using a five thirty seconds uh dremel brad point bit i wanna tap that hole ahead of time because on the polymer 80 jigs that hole is really tight the jig hole is extremely tight and you're gonna clip the jig okay so what i want to do is be able to come in here and just tap that hole to make sure that i don't push material from the jig down into the hole as i'm drilling so all i'm going to do is i have this just set up in a 90 degree angle attachment i will go ahead and put it in here when we drill the holes i have some mineral oil in my plunger i'm just going to fill in that hole like so and you're just going to give it a couple of quick turns just to tap that hole widen up the jig hole a little bit so that we're not pushing that material down into our frame a couple turns you'll feel it hit it's good that's it so see how i took out just that little bit of jig there when i tap that hole if i didn't do that that is now going into the frame all right and obviously that's not good right we don't want any of that in there at all so i'm going to do the other side now as well a little bit of mineral oil into the hole and we're going to tap this one as well it's these little steps that make all the difference to the final outcome of your build so we just take a few moments and we do it right the first time right okay so again i have that material and if i did not do this step that material is going into the frame all right so that's all set so what i'm going to do is i'm going to go ahead drill some holes and i'm going to clip some tabs and then we're going to start to talk about frame to slide fitment [Music] [Music] all right so after a quick rinse we can see that these holes are a hundred percent first time quality i mean absolutely gorgeous right this is why we do this method beautiful beautiful beautiful holes okay so now we need to start to fit pins to the frame so let me grab some glock pins here grab those put this aside so we have a trigger housing pin here we have a locking block pin and we have our trigger pin and then this hole is uh pre-drilled by polymer 80 for our front locking block so on the trigger housing pin and our locking block pin we'll remember that we drilled with a 760 ford spit so it's gonna be a little smaller okay and so if you take your pin now this trigger housing pen you know varies from about 2.94 to 2.99 okay and so at seven sixty fourths we might come in here and it's too big okay it's very very common so a couple things you can do you can freeze the pin and you know go that route if you're really close you're on a smaller scale here you might be able to use some mineral oil to get it in but most commonly what we need to do is open up the hole just a little bit using a three millimeter bit now we always want to drill smaller all right that's why i do the 760 volts because the truth here is that pin creep is a real thing okay and it's one of the most frustrating things to get your build all together go out to the range stop firing it and pins are creeping left and right on you uh whether it be the trigger housing pen the locking block pen or even the trigger pen okay it's very very frustrating because now you got to go there you got to try to use some nail polish clear nail polish to you know glue it in or now you're spending more money for ante walk pens and sometimes that doesn't even solve it okay so i'm using a smaller bit because i can be very controlled here the pin keeps everything locked in via the frame now let me show you what i mean by that we have our locking block and our rear layer okay and the rear rail system here on a polymer 80 is holding the trigger housing assembly itself all right and you know we have these holes here this trigger housing pin this is not being locked into the rear rail okay it goes through and it can come out very easy on either side and so what we really need to do here is we need to capture it inside the frame on the left and the right to make sure that it doesn't walk because there's a lot of movement going on back here and this pin is going to move and it's going to walk on you i'm going to take a three millimeter bit that's tried and true and straight okay and i am going to go in and twist and slightly open up that hole again i didn't have a drill bit on this or i didn't use the dremel on this and you know spinning real fast and opening up that whole wide i'm really going to go slow in here and twist it open and just enough material for me to sneak that pin in the frame all right so we'll take this we'll come in and again just sneaking in we're going to go one side then the other from here i went in one side than the other i'm just looking down in there to make sure that i can line up and come through straight on the other side because you know obviously the pin needs to go straight through and it will you can see the head is peeking out right there that is a nice straight trigger housing pinhole this is also very important because if you made a mistake drilling now we can correct it by hand we only drill once that's it we never drill again so any corrections we need to make we're going to make by hand and once i'm through this side i'm just making sure that i can line up to that other hole which i can perfectly so that tells me that that is going to be straight and true as well we are good to go we got 100 holes here so 99 of the battle is now complete all right so now that we have all of our holes opened up and they're perfect everything looks 100 and you know the strike frame has all of these pinholes accentuated right so even more important to have first time quality pinholes so i'm going to take the trigger housing pin right here i'm going to stick that in and we're going to fit it one side then the other so that side is good come in push it back out let's come in through the other side now fitting it to the frame perfect all right so it's going to be nice and tight fit once we get that rail in and we're going to be 100 for set assembly so now with the locking block pin i'm going to put that in we're going to do the same thing one side then the other that dropped right in nice and tight good to go push that out perfect and then the other side perfect all right so those are good our two three millimeter pins are perfect trigger pin is going to be next i'll line that up we should be able to push straight in and out on one side and same on the other because that bit that 5 30 seconds bit is just absolutely perfect for any type of drilling and you know whenever we build glocks it just works really really well okay and we're in good all right so we can go in from either side nice and snug our pins are set so now let's talk about our front row uh sorry let's talk about our front locking block and our rear rail so here's our rear rail we're going to drop it into place and we're going to look down there to make sure see if we can see right through or if there's any hiccups there that actually looks really good that's a good rear rail so the rear rail is perfect awesome okay so we have any modifications there our locking block this looks like an old locking block let's see what happens push this down oh yeah we're tight so a locking block let's see here a locking block pin is good our trigger pin is good but our front hole is not lining up and again that's the pre-drilled hold by polymer 80. yeah just get something white to put behind it see if we can see it a little bit better i'm going to grab a piece of paper so if we look down in here we can see our locking block pin is good our trigger pin is good but right in here we're going to have to make some adjustments to these front legs to get that to sit down and i can see it's a it's a little bit of a ramp as well going up so sometimes you can push it down but that's going to be too much so we have to work that block a little bit to get that front to sit down and we'll work the bottom of those legs and go ahead and pull this block out so we got to correct this so it's in the front here where this is sitting down on the polymer i'm going to trim all along the bottom here and then up into this corner to get it to seat really down well in there okay and then we can sneak that front pin through so i'm going to go ahead and just correct this block it's going to be right here in this corner and around the bottom of the leg you can use any grinding stone you want orange green or even pink okay but this one is just the perfect size for this job to kind of come around and just do a real quick correction i have have a whole locking block video out there that will show you all of the different problems because realistically i'm gonna guess that this same problem that i'm having because this is part of the first batch of strike 80s other people are going to have my experience is that batches kind of come together so while this is this fix for this batch there might be another fix for another batch okay so you want to watch uh that video and look at what your specific issue is with the locking block and apply that fix okay so i'm going to start on like i guess 18. [Music] take a look at where we're at now so we've got the white so we can see behind it a little bit hold that over there oh wow really close really close so typically what i'll do is i'll take my block tool which i have several over here and i'll see if i can sneak in so i can get in that side a little bit now this side no so i have enough clearance now in the front here of this block okay and i it's also kind of on a slight ramp so what i really want to do is i want to come forward and down and so i'm going to take the inner corner now here where it's getting stopped because it's not getting stopped up front anymore we've removed that material it can go down but it's because of that angle that i need to move this corner right here where it's getting stuck okay just a tiny bit because i can already get the pin through see how i can get all the way through this side no problem so it's just going to be this side i'm a little held up so just a touch just to here and we are going to be 100 and good to go so i'm just going to work in this curvature right here in this area here and here real quick all right let's turn this off and uh let's see how she fits so put it in oh way better and we're nice and level that looks good perfect all right let me just kind of see over here real quick yep right through on that side no problem that was our problem side and went through here through there we're through here and we'll put our rear rail in that hole looks great as well so put our rear rail in give it a little press oh perfect all right so we are really in good shape here right we got a nice straight block you know a lot of times freedom protectors it's not the block that's bad you know we we hear that all the time i got a bad block you know sometimes you get a banana you know but the reality is a lot of times it's the block is fine it's the block fitting to the frame uh that is the issue and we gotta you know we gotta play with it a little bit to get it to seat just right but this looks fantastic all of our holes are lined up i see a lot of white right through all our holes i can see right through so this block and rail system is ready to go all right so i'm going to clean this up and then we're going to talk about leveling all right so now our pins are 100 everything looks beautiful and we just need to level the plane here between the rear rail and the front locking block and it's real simple to do but it's so so important that you just take a moment and you make sure that everything is nice and level because again you don't want to get all the way to the end assemble everything and then start to have slide to frame fitment problems okay so taking just a few moments here is going to ensure that once you're ready to assemble it is ready to assemble with first time quality so what i do is i have a jig here that i have modified i just cut off the tabs on it so that i can put a frame in with the locking block and rear rail system in so we'll just sit it down in there make sure that you were on a level surface okay so you can actually use your level on the jig to make sure that you're on a level surface and we're good and so what i'm going to do is put the level from the rear rail to the front locking block and make sure that it's level right there and we can see it's just a little bit off okay so we're not completely level but we're way ahead of where we were because visually i can't see that it is unlevel like i could earlier before we fix the block so we have a little bit of one level here on this side so on the other side i'm going to expect the bubble to be on my left hand side right because we're switching around make sure it's sitting there really good just like that take your level put it on yep so it's the same on either side pretty much yeah so we need to go ahead and level this rail and make sure that it's a hundred percent when we put our slide on so i'm gonna take my stone you've seen me do this before plenty of videos and i take some water put it on the stone and we're just going to work that back and forth and we don't need much here right so probably about 30 seconds i have the pins in when i do this going back and forth and after just a couple of passes just like that you'll actually be able to start to see where the high spots were see it right there you can already start to see it so just work it for uh you know 30 seconds to 90 seconds at a time and then recheck your level all right let's take a look oh yeah she's looking much much better there all right so we'll take our modified jig that we cut our tabs off of to seat our frame with the rails in take our level come on up and measure and we're 100 on the money right there freedom protector on that side let's check this side make sure there's no high sides on this side keep it locked in on this side and we're a hundred percent there as well so we are a hundred percent leveled we are ready now to first time quality everything and you know this is why we take this step we correct we do our holes we we fit everything nice nice and we level because you don't want to spend all this time now first time quality in the channel first time quality in the tabs polishing prepping all my parts doing all that stuff only to find out at the end at the very very last step of assembly that you have an issue right so this is why we take a few minutes in between right at the step and now i'm actually motivated to go ahead and do a first time quality job because i know this frame is going to be a hundred percent uh when we go to put on that slide so that's exactly what i'm gonna do i'm gonna get building all right once you have your lower all together and your parts are installed everything's first time quality you're going to want to take your slide before you put any parts in it and you want to run it along the rails make sure that you have nice smooth action just like that so this lower is 100 and good to go and all we have to do now is assemble this upper and this is the brand new wolverine slide from swamp fox and obviously swamp fox is an optics company that has transitioned over here and made a glock slide and they have done one hell of a bang up job on this slide um really quick i'll just go through it because some of the components of how they made the slide is going to play into our assembly so the probably the big thing that jumps out at you is that the rear sight is forward of the optic and as you know that's how i like to run my guns i don't like to run it with the rear sight behind then the optic and then the front post i like this setup but it's very very hard to find slides that come pre-milled just like this so a lot of times you have to take blank slides and send them out to have them cut in order to do it so it was really great to see swamp fox come out and you know be ahead of that curve and do it like this from the start so that's a whole discussion there um but realistically really what that comes down to for me is if my optic is my primary it's my primary then these sites become the backup and i don't want the backup behind here distracting me through the glass and all that other nonsense but that's another whole discussion um but so they did that and the other thing that they did is they put these bumpers up front here now typically when you have an optic cut you'll you'll have the bumpers right here on the screw hole and let me actually just grab a slide over here i think i have what's this one yeah all right perfect this is a slide by zafri precision as we know zafri precision is like the king of aftermarket glock slides in their cut they have the posts these bumpers right here for the optic and so when the optic sits on that post it provides that um you know extra seating so because there's all this recoil going back and all that force going back on the optic and sometimes you'll go ahead and get an optic cut slide and it won't have bumpers at all it'll just be flat like that well the only thing holding all of that force is the screw itself and when we see optics fall off that's usually why because all of that pressure pulling back on the screw eventually takes the screw out loosens it out and then your optic goes flying okay and so when you're looking for a slide that has an optic cut having bumpers is a very very big piece of that because it provides that extra stability and then the screw just holds it in place makes sense so what swamp fox did here was they said well we're going to provide two points so they have these two forward points that when we put our king slayer on i'm going to sit on which is smart up front because that's right where all of the action is happening and that's usually what occurs is the lift happens with the optic and then eventually it goes flying right so they have this here keeping that pressure point down and then you have the screws on top of it as a secondary uh piece of strength uh holding that optic in place and you know look it makes sense right because they're an optic company they know how an optic should work on a slide okay and so they did a really good job with that the other thing i really like and we'll get to this in the install piece of it is you can see that on every slide really uh one of the things that occurs is you got two holes okay and if you use the wrong size screw here what happens is it starts to impact your extractor plunger and let me just take an extractor plunger out for a second have all my parts in here prepped and polished and ready for ready for our assembly okay so we'll go ahead take this out put this aside what happens is the extractor plunger goes down there is people will use a screw and it'll be too long and it will start to impact the extractor plunger from moving and when that occurs let me go ahead and grab this the round won't cycle appropriately and it'll get jammed and you know people will have to rack it after every single shot and they'll get frustrated and they won't know why and the whole time is because the screw is going through let's see if we can get a shot of it down in there and it's impacting see how i'm in here and it's impacting our extractor plunger right it's a real pain in the neck and for a lot of people it's really difficult to diagnose okay but that is catching on the spring and not allowing the extractor plunger to do its job okay so what swamp fox did here with this slide which i love is they made it idiot-proof they sealed it shut let's see if we can get a shot of that all right it's sealed shut you can't go all the way through it's stops you right only to the point where the screw is so we can never run the risk once our extractor plunger channel uh our extractor plunger is in its channel it's never going to have anything impede on it right so they did a really good job making that idiot proof i love that and so last but not least the other thing they do as we get ready for our assembly right now is it has a channel liner already installed love that right how many times do we see slides calm do they have a channel line or don't they have a channel liner so because this comes with a channel liner we're not going to do that step let me actually show you how to do that step on this one here this one does not have one so your channel line is going to have two sides to it one side is going to have a little burr on it from you know it's coming through the factory and they're cutting them uh the tube down the line okay so one side's going to have a little burr on it and the other side is going to have a tiny little bevel that goes all the way around and it could be tough to see and so the first thing that we're going to do let me go ahead and get out my razor here is i'm just going to cut this little burr off okay so once you cut the bird off then we need to sink it down into the slide and so what we do is we take a channel liner install tool we put it onto the tool itself the bevel side is facing down and i'm going to show you on this one because obviously we already have a channel liner in there the bevel end facing down we put it in the slide just like so okay and then i'm gonna hammer now i'm gonna hear the sound change once the metal portion hits the metal portion of the stoppage of inside the slide channel okay so go ahead and just listen as i hammer down and we'll hear the sound change and that means we are completely inserted into the channel of the slide hear that hear that change that change that means you're all the way down okay and then you just go ahead and take it out and your channel line up set right so we'll put this aside let's get our pieces all over here for our slide first thing i'm going to do is take my safety plunger and i'm going to pop it right into this hole just like so okay i'm going to press it all the way in and then i'm going to take the extractor which is this piece and i'm going to seat it into place just like so i'm going to let my thumb off of the safety plunger and it's going to stay in place just like that i'm going to take my firing pin and i'm going to stick that right into its channel just like so i have my extractor plunger okay now i'm using a non lci and unloaded chamber indicator bearing here because i'm also using a flat faced all steel extractor and not lci setup and i have my 47021 19x ejector already installed into the frame so we're going to have beautiful ejection out of this weapon i'm going to take the metal end first and we're going to drop that down the hole just like that okay i'm going to take the back plate and i'm just going to set it into place and i'm going to hold it with my thumb just like this okay then i'll take uh you know any tool you have i'm going to push down on that spacer sleeve and i'm going to let the back plate come on a little bit just like so and then we'll take our punch and we'll go right on top of that non lci bearing of the extractor plunger and then we're going to push the back plate on the rest of the way just like that and it snaps into place okay so our internals now of the slider are ready to go with first time quality so put this stuff aside next let's talk about setting up our recoil spring so we have our recoil spring here it's got a little screw on the top right this is by blacklist industries blacklist industries is an outstanding first-time quality company we have our retainer right there and it comes with a set of springs i always like to buy a kit and i don't i never like to buy one spring at a time i like to buy spring kits that way as i do things and put comps on them and i need to change springs it's very easy for me to do okay so what we're going to do here is the spring goes over the guide rod then we put our retainer washer on and then this is gonna screw in okay but for that we need a little bit of loctite so let's get our tube of loctite out let's go ahead and get a piece of cardboard as well i think this is gonna be a t9 let me just check real quick yeah t9 okay so that's good getting the spring on getting the retainer clip and doing all this can be a complete nightmare on your fingers right like trying to do all this then get the retainer clip and all that it's really really difficult so what you want for that is a guide rod tool okay a guide rod tool makes this uh whole process just a thousand times easier just comes right down now i can hold it and i can do all the work that i need to do with my screw my retainer clip and all that other stuff okay but i recognize a lot of people watching this video on armorers they do not have things like a guide ride tool so before the guideline tool was invented we used our standard block here okay and we should all have an armors block all right and kind of a little hack around that is this hole right here so you go ahead and take this then put the spring into that hole there okay so you want to try to pull it down as far as you can and then get your bench block and then hold it down this way now i can work okay so that's just a little work around for those of you that don't have a guide rod tool all right and actually we'll do it that way just for fun okay so we're going to do is take our blue loctite we're going to shake it up just like so open it up i'm going to put just a little dab here we're going to use this for the optic as well just like that take our spring push it all the way down take our block hold this in place take our retainer put our retainer on a screw dip in some loctite and go ahead and just screw that bad boy on give it a little twist make sure it's nice and tight okay once you're nice and tight you can relieve the pressure off the block and in and out and you are good okay we also have these pieces okay this is going to be because the 17 slide is longer than the 19 frame right so actually we can just put this right on right here all right it's a little longer here so this is going to fill the gap we're going to take this okay and it goes in to the slide channel just like so that way when we're sitting on here it's gonna cover it now this one is a metal one by lone wolf okay and they're expensive they're 55 and lone wolf you you're robbing people at that price okay um but you can go ahead and get one at that price if you prefer to uh have it but there's a lot of people that make metal ones that are on ebay and i would suggest you go there i mean it's just overpriced 55 so this little piece of metal is crazy but again ebay has some other ones another option if you have a 3d printer and you have the right material that's very strong you can 3d print it as well okay and this obviously opens up another whole world of options because now you have all sorts of colors that you can do you know to match your slide or match your frame or be doing any type of fancy serra coating okay if you don't have a 3d printer matt at 2a 3d print also does these and he can do them in any color for you as well for a fraction of what the metal one costs okay but those are some of the options that you have for that so now let's talk about the actual optic itself so i'm just going to put this stuff aside and we're going to go ahead and take out this optic here by swap box so one of the things i like about swamp fox is there are no [ __ ] company what i mean by that is whenever you buy any of their products it comes with everything you need okay same thing with the slide like i said the channel lino is already installed they're just a no [ __ ] company okay so with your kingslayer uh you're going to have your tool right here your adjustment tool we don't need that one because that's perfect tinny rail go ahead and take the optic out itself okay it comes with the battery i mean how many times do we get stuff and they don't have batteries right especially these batteries are paying the neck and they're costly so with this and it also comes with all sorts of screws that you need okay so again everything's already here for you there's no running to the hardware store to get screws or you know down to the convenience store to get batteries all right so here we have um picatinny mount and then we have an eight millimeter length and we have if we're gonna run a cover right yeah so we're gonna use these right here we have our battery and we have our optic so take this out and we have a cleaning cloth and it comes with a cover on the optic as well so we'll put this stuff aside take the battery pull that out and then we'll keep our screws over here next to our loctite perfect all right now let's get to the nitty gritty we'll take our cover off so you see those two holes right there that's what's going to line up and hold on to the post on the slide right and keep us locked in nice and tight i'll take the cover out really nice clean piece of glass you know fantastic and you know look when it comes to optics i got everything under the sun for optics and they get better and better with time these companies okay this one is fairly inexpensive it's in the low 200s so it's a real value so we'll put this on and you'll see that it snaps and locks right into place right like we're talking about so it's got that anchor point up front really holding it tight and then when we put these screws on it's going to secure it even further so what we're going to do first though is go ahead and put the battery in so on the side here you take your little tool that they give you and you just loosen up these two screws one here and one here once you loosen up the screws a little battery cavity will open up you put the plus side on the facing up so it's in push this down and push it back in and secure it down okay once it's in i kind of fingered it a little bit give it a little clean it comes with a nice cleaning cloth as well all right so now we need to secure this onto here and you know whenever you do optics it's always a pain in the neck because you've got to dip the screw and try to get the screw in there without touching it and getting loctite everywhere and a lot of times what happens when you have to do that method is you taking the screw into the loctite you're going over here but then if you ever have to remove it you could use heat by the way to take it off but the loctite is actually locking the screw to the optic not just in the air because you had to kind of go down and and deep and in and now you know you're forced so many times when you have to do an optic you actually have to use specialty tools to drill it out to take it and separate it from the optic itself so again it's not only stopping the screw from going too far down impacting our extractor plunger but now i don't even need to do that i can just pour a drop there and there because it's not going to go through like it would on other slides again forward thinking we love that so just going to put a drop into that hole just like that and then drop into this hole just like that okay perfect then from there where's our screws whenever you use loctite you want to give it a couple of days to really set up in other words you don't want to go out to the range tomorrow and fire this okay you want to give it a couple of days and as you can see i'm using blue loctite and as a matter of fact i think i even have yeah here here's there's blue and red and you can see that they look identical okay in the packages the tube looks exactly the same except one says blue one says red okay but they look exactly the same red is like cement i use blue for almost everything but i do use red on optics when there are no posts at all when only the screw is holding it that's when i use ref right so that's kind of my little tip on that if you have a slide that has no bumpers whatsoever to hold it in place and the only thing holding it is the screw then at that point you want to use the red for everything else we can use blue so there we go we're going to take the tool and we're just going to insert the screw and put it down you get it hand tight and then once you hand tight a quarter turn perfect all right look at that look how gorgeous oh my goodness beautiful it's like a piece of art right all right and we love the side mounting battery love that okay put this aside put this aside put this aside let's take out our gorgeous first time quality blacklist barrel i mean you know marine gun builders a big fan of blacklist battle i'm just telling you now big fan and no i'm i when as you know i don't even need to say this okay but i have no affiliation with blacklist i have no affiliation with swamp fox i have no affiliation with that free precision i have no affiliation with strike okay i just appreciate first time quality products and these companies make first-time quality products okay so you're gonna take our beautiful blacklist industries barrel we're gonna go ahead and place that in just like that making sure that it locks nice and you got good play okay that there's no tolerance issues here okay this is good to go and so now that we're getting here close to the end of the video we're going to stop for a special announcement as i assemble the rest of the slide this beautiful slide you saw me put together today i'm going to give away to a lucky freedom protector in the marine gun builder forum now if you're not part of the marine gun builder form you can come for the giveaways i got you but more importantly we have a wealth of information and build knowledge and members who are absolute fiends on building polymer 80. so uh if you need build help that's where you're going to find if you want to just hang around with fellow addicts like myself that's where you'll find us in the marine gun builder form okay so this beautiful slide that we just did here this 17 swamp fox all decked out with custom parts i'm going to give away to a lucky freedom protector in the marine gun builder forum which means we can't use that we have to use another one so i have another swamp fox slide here and this one i'm going to use a grey ghost uh precision barrel this is a 17 gen 5 barrel now a 17 gen 5 lug will fit the 19 locking block okay on the gen 3 but not a gen 3 uh 17 barrel will not fit the 19 all right so oh but more importantly what does that mean that means that lucky freedom protector that's going to win this slide oh i got something else for you there freedom protector i have a custom frame for you done up by glen hill customs in battle worn to match okay and then stippled out so look how gorgeous this build is going to be man i'm excited for the freedom protector that's going to win that so i'll post that into the marine gun builder forum have a lucky freedom detector win that and you know what i'm a generous guy i'll probably give this one away too so this is a uh 17 gen 5 barrel great ghost precision we're going to take this screw off the thread protector here bang and we need our adapter right because it's a 19 long it's a 17 slide on top of a 19 frame and i'm going to use an uncaptured guide rod for this one okay so you're just going to take your adapter and you're going to slide it right up the slide rails just like that bang okay gonna take our barrel slide it right in and again make sure that you've got a good lock and unlock there and we do okay and then with an uncaptured guide rod can be a little tricky so you're just gonna take it here put it in you're going to line it up and then you pinch okay so i'm going to pinch here as i push forward okay so i pinch and go all the way forward and just lock it in like you would a normal recoil spring okay and it's locked in just when you take it out you gotta be real careful it doesn't go flying okay put our thread protector back on and now we have our moment of truth but we already know and with full confidence that it is gonna slide right onto those rails with first time quality because we spent time up front doing that so we're going to take the strike frame going to take our slide up just like that see that no problems no hiccups and we're ready to go beautiful beautiful first time quality builder that looks absolutely gorgeous and 19 long on our strike 80 frame the only thing we have left to do is um lube and do our safety checks and you'll want to check out those videos as well alright my friends that's it for today simplify do or die [Music] you

Channel: MarineGunBuilder

Views: 236,333

Rating: 4.9096565 out of 5

Keywords: strike industries, polymer 80, polymer 80 glock 19, strike p80, strike industries p80, strike industries p80 frame, strike industries p80 magwell, strike industries polymer 80, polymer80 strike industries, mdxarms, mdxarms g19, mdxarms p80, mdx arms, mdxarms polymer 80, strike industries glock, strike industries glock frame, strike industries glock 19, polymer 80 build, glock build, strike 80, strike 80 glock, strike industries 80 glock lower

Id: 7Q2XyVknC_g

Length: 46min 5sec (2765 seconds)

Published: Tue Oct 06 2020

Reddit Comments

[u/diegoks88]

Great video. So many tips and tricks packed into it