- Welcome back Freedom of Texas. Ay, today on the Marine
Gun Builder channel, I'm gonna show ya how to do a 1st Time Quality combat slide, and I mean everything, how to prep parts, polish
parts, install components, how to give her some eyes,
give her some glasses, and oil and lube her for
1st Time Quality action. This is a big video, really in-depth, so I'm gonna put a timestamp
and an index up top, so if you only need to see
one piece of this install, you can jump right in it. Are you ready to go pro? Let's go. (digital exploding) All right, welcome back
Freedom Protectors. Today, we're gonna be doing this 17 slide. Now this is a Brownells
configuration with an RMR. I'm gonna show you how to prep the slide. We have our OEM parts kit. I'm gonna show you how to prep the parts to go into the slide just like we did in the frame video. We don't wanna just take this stuff and start throwing it in there. So, I'm gonna go over
how we prep the parts for 1st Time Quality. And then put it in the slide. We have a threaded and fluted 9mm barrel here for our 17. I'm also going to be covering
how to install sights in this video. So, we've got a set of Steel City Arsenal suppressor height fiber optic sights. And I'm also going to show you how to set it up with the optics. So your slide is 100% ready to go. Lock and load. Okay, so we're gonna put this stuff aside for a second cause we're not gonna need that until later. And we'll put the barrel aside as well. And what we're gonna take a look now is at our OEM parts kit. So, standard Glock OEM parts kit. Dump this all out, oh! Get that there. All right, so let's
kind of see what we got in our parts kit and lets arrange it, okay? So, we have our recoil spring assembly we're gonna put that aside. We're gonna deal with this first. Okay, we have our striker. We have our striker spring. We have our spacer sleeve, so we're gonna put those together. And our channel liner's gonna go with our striker assembly. And our little two cups,
our little half cups here that come together that hold the spring underneath the head of our striker. So, that's our striker assembly here we're gonna keep that stuff together. We have our extractor plunger, and spring, and bearings. So, these three pieces
are gonna go together We're gonna keep them right there for now. We then have our extractor which, obviously if you've
watched my ejection video, this is a 9mm so you know that I'll be changing this out. We have our safety plunger and spring. Okay, so these two pieces
are gonna go together. And we have our backplate. So, we're gonna put the
backplate aside for now. So, before I just go ahead and start assembling these pieces, I wanna prep each part so we have 1st Time Quality action. We need to take care of our
recoil spring assembly, okay? So, in the video, squeaky slide video, I talk about, you know, how
this makes your slide squeak, doesn't sound good, it's
not 1st Time Quality. And so, you can go ahead and watch that video but I
do this right at the time when I'm prepping the parts and before I put them in the slides so that it's good to go out of the gate. So, the first thing I'm gonna do, though, is I am going to go ahead And I'm gonna take my buffer, all right, my impregnated buffer and I'm just gonna come
around these coils, okay? And I wanna clean any sharp edges that are on this recoil spring, okay? So, you know, from the factory these parts are real dirty, you know, they're just, you know a lot of them
are just machine pieces. They don't sit there and polish them and we want to just
make sure that we don't have any burring or anything that's gonna cause a hiccup within our weapon, okay? So, I just have my little
Drill Master here for this and I have my impregnated buffer and I'm just gonna come
around the coil system just like this, okay? And I'm just gonna take
off any light burring that's here. Now, this isn't taking off material, okay. It's just gonna smooth
it out a little bit, make it have really good action. So, we'll turn this on (drill buzzing) And this is all I do,
just go right around it. I mean, you can just feel it. Especially if you go around again. It just goes around
that much easier, okay? It's just making that
surface nice and slick. Now, it's spinning to the right so I'm always working to the right. Notice I flipped the piece when I go to the other side, okay? So, you wanna keep it
moving in the same direction as the Dremel. Okay, flip it back around. You know, go around twice. If you notice anything,
you know, sticking up, you can kind of stay in
that one spot for a second, see if you can get rid of it, all right? This is all we do. All right. Good. I usually kind of give it
a little like this too. All right and turn it over. A little like that, okay. Now, I'm going to soak
this in some Ballistol right, again, squeaky slide video teach you all about that and why we do that and all that stuff, okay? So, I have a Ballistol,
I'm just doing this so while I sit up the rest of the slide, this is getting set up, ready to go. This is the last piece
that we're going to install in our slide assembly so it
can kind of just sit here and I give it a little
spray, give it a turn, give a little spray, give it a turn. And then it's in the coils, so what I do is I flip it up and I kind of just move it. You can actually just hear
it squeaking right there. Hear that? And then when that gets into the metal. Yep. (spring squeaking) All right, it starts
to really squeak, okay? So, what I'm gonna do is
I'm gonna push this down and hold. I'm gonna give it a spray in there. I'm gonna do the same
thing on the other side. Push down and hold. Okay, work it a couple more times. Yeah, see, no more squeak, perfect. So, we have this spring. So, same thing, I have another spring, I'm gonna take my impregnated buffer and I'm gonna go around
the spring just like this. (drill buzzing) Okay, I always take a
look at these springs when they're brand new. I make sure that I don't see any bends in any of the coils. I also make sure that it's straight and true, I'm gonna go over some pieces with you on this when we put it into the striker because almost everybody assembles this wrong. But I'm making sure that there's no kinks, no bends, no burs where they
snip the end of the coil that could get caught up
in that channel at all so, that one looks great. Okay, we also have our plunger here and spring and bearing. So, we have another spring so I'm gonna do the same thing with this component. (drill buzzing) We have our metal components, we're gonna have our striker, and we're going to have
our extractor plunger, and we're going to have
our safety plunger, okay? So, all of these three pieces I wanna give a really good polish to, okay? Now, with the extractor,
we're gonna polish the entire thing, the extractor plunger. With the safety plunger, same thing. I'm gonna polish this entire piece, okay? When we get to the striker though, I am going to polish everything but the very very tip,
that firing pin, okay, that comes through that breach face, bang, right, strikes our primer. So, I'm gonna do everything
but the tip, okay, so I'm gonna come all the way up, all the way around the head but we're not gonna touch the actual firing pin, okay? To do this we are gonna
follow the same methods that we did in our frame video. I'll put all our little pieces aside. I'm gonna get my cardboard, I always polish in a
two step process, okay? I use Flitz at the beginning to take off all of the heavy stamping and just kind of dirt and
grime that's on these pieces. And then we'll wipe it all down and then I go in with the Mothers and I fine polish it, get it to look like a mirror, get it nice and smooth and, you know, the results
are just phenomenal every time you do that, okay? So, what we're gonna do as, again, in that frame video, I
like to use my Dremel press for this because it allows me to have two hands free while
I am polishing, right, because kind of holding
these little pieces and polishing is really, really difficult. Well, with the Dremel press, let me just move the camera up, with the Dremel press it's really easy. It's locked in there and I can use my hands as
necessary to come in here and manipulate the piece
just like that, okay. All I'm gonna do is take the Flitz here I'm gonna put just more
than enough for this project right here. I'm gonna put some right there. And I'm gonna take my
extractor plunger here and I am gonna put a little bit onto the bit itself now, I use medium sized polishers here, medium
duty polishers, okay? I use the spearhead
because it allows me to get into all the nook
and crannies of the part, works extremely, extremely well. You don't wanna use the really
loosey goosey felt stuff even though these are felt
but they're the medium duty, they're really bound tight
together, the fibers, okay? Also prevents when you turn it on from stuff going everywhere, okay. We don't want any of that. So, a little bit on there. And then just a little
bit I'm gonna kind of rub into the surface of
the extractor plunger here. Just like so, getting the whole thing, every area. You notice I'm not over polishing here. I'm just getting it, you know, to the point that we're gonna take off all of the dirt and grime, okay. I'm on 10 on the Dremel so,
you know, nice and slow. It's not about speed. If you think you put too
much on like I think I did, I'm just gonna put my
hand over it like this, turn it on for a second, all right, we're good to go. So now, I'm just gonna come in here and look, look how dirty that
gets right away, all right, and I'm just gonna work the component up and down my bit on the press. And I always rave about my Dremel press but it is just so versatile when you're doing any
type of precision work, or polishing, or anything else, and I mean, the hand will come down. You'll wanna do your pins this way, you can do them that way too, stay nice and straight, it's got
the base plate on there, you can clamp it right down, okay. So, I'm just gonna do this with the Flitz for each piece. That spearhead is so good, cause I can get right
in that nook and cranny. That's where we're gonna
put our spring on, right. And our spring's just gonna
fit in there nice and smooth, have really good action. All right, we'll turn that off. Just wipe this piece down. Again, the Flitz, we're not
doing any fine polishing here yet, that's for the Mothers. We're just getting as much of this dirt and grime off our metal pieces as we can and look how black
already that bit is, okay. And so, significant improvement already. But we're not done until
we're mirror finished. We're gonna take our striker here, now again, I'm not gonna do the tip, okay. I'm only gonna stay within
this area down here. I don't wanna do the tip. So, for this, and again, another reason why, you know, having the two hands free
I can kind of cup this so I make sure that I
don't get it, all right. All right, keep it on 10. (Dremel buzzing) All
right, so just kind of coming along here. You know, our spring is gonna sit on here. We've already gone around
with the impregnated buffer on the spring. Now it's gonna be making
contact with nice, smooth metal. And it's gonna be a really
happy striker assembly. That's what we want. (Dremel buzzing) All right, turn that
off, wipe this one down. All right, our last piece is gonna be our safety plunger, okay. And this is always real dirty and grimey. Same thing, just keep
repeating this process with the Flitz, getting
it all ready to go. A little bit there. You wanna get the entire safety plunger. Again, you know, using the spearhead, why? Cause I can get right into that hole just like this, boom! Make it perfect, right? Spearhead is awesome on
this Dremel press, okay. (Dremel buzzing) Turn that on. Again, this would be a
piece that if you were using one hand is, you know, kind of tough to polish having a Dremel in one hand and then this little
tiny piece in the other but with the press it just
makes it so much easier to get right into the
grooves there, no problem, right into the hole just like that. Beautiful. Oh my God, so much junk
just came out of there. All right, and I mean,
obviously this is such an important piece too. You want better take up, you know, this is a big piece for that. All right, and look how black. I mean, that's just three little pieces. Completely disgusting. All right, so that's it
for the Flitz, right. I mean, we had a little dime size that we put on the cardboard,
that's all we needed. Now I'll just clean this up. And now I'm gonna repeat the process only I'm going to be using the Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish. Everything obviously is in the MGB shop. All my gunsmithing tools, everything you ever see
me use is right there, and all of Amazon's top picks. And as you know, I keep telling you, you know, when we do these videos, this channel is not monetized. I don't want you to watch ads, all right. Who wants that? We wanna skip to the
1st Time Quality stuff so you know, the best way
you can support the channel I don't do patrion as well but the best way you
can support the channel is to use those links and so, not only are the tools there, but all of the best and top rated Amazon EDC gear, gunsmithing gear, safe gear, anything you
will need that is related to our love and passion of guns and hunting will be listed there for
you to take a look at, okay. So, what I'm gonna do
here is with the Mothers aluminum polish is I really
just kind of drench it, the piece here, okay. Really working it in. Just like that. I'm gonna put some on
the bit so, you know, the Flitz is a little thicker of a polish. You know, this has a
little more liquid to it. So, you'll know that when
we turn the Dremel on, I'm gonna put my hand
over it so it doesn't splatter everywhere, all right. So, just like that. (Dremel buzzing) All right. And then we just repeat that process and look how much more its
taking off, look it, see? The Mothers is fantastic. (Dremel buzzing) All right, so that's all set. So now our metal components
are all polished. They look beautiful. And so what I'm gonna do is
I'm just gonna buff them all. So, I'm gonna show you how I do that. A fine felt wheel here,
just a buffing wheel, nothing on it, okay. Because one of the things
is when you polish, you wanna make sure all the polish is off now we sit here with a microfiber towel and we go ahead and we
you know, wipe it off. But you know, there could be little spots in there that we can't get on any piece. So, I just have a little felt wheel, I'm just gonna come all the way around and it will take off any excess polish and residue that might still be there. Let me actually move our
Dremel press back over here so it's out of our way. And then give you a kind of better view. There we go. (Dremel buzzing) Okay, I'm a gun guy, you know, the video you
can see right there, bang, how much of a difference, right, when you use the buffing wheel. You know, I'm a gun guy and not a video guy. You know, I've had to
really take my time here and learn the art of video, and editing, you know, I owe a lot to my 13 year old son who
does most of the editing and has taught me most
of what I need to know to get videos out to you. So look it, look it, mirroring. That looks absolutely beautiful. Let me bring the light over here. So you can actually see it a little closer as its happening. Beautiful. Look at that piece. Stunning. Mirror finish. All right, so I'm gonna
do this to the rest of these parts and then I'm gonna clean
up my disgusting hands and we'll get back and ready to assemble. All right, so now we're back. All of our metal components
are mirror polished, looking absolutely beautiful. We've already prepped our springs. Everything's 1st Time Quality and our components and
our parts are ready to go into our slide. So first, we're gonna talk about the striker assembly pieces. We'll put the extractor
plunger assembly aside. And we'll put our extractor and our safety plunger aside, okay. So, here we have the channel liner, okay. This is gonna go into the slide. We have our striker, again,
with our spacer sleeve. We have our spring and
we have spring cups. So, we're gonna tackle
the channel liner first. I'm gonna go ahead and I'm just gonna push this aside for a second. The channel liner sits
right down inside this hole, all the way down into the channel. And it's gonna sit right
in here just like this. Now this is an important component, I'm gonna get a striker
that's already assembled. So, what happens here, I'm
gonna take this striker here and I'm gonna put it in. Right here is our breach face, right? And when we pull the
trigger, the firing pin comes through, bang, right? Bang! Just like that. And so, understand that this
channel liner is in here and it's holding that right in place so it's not rattling around and it comes right
through that breach face sending that bullet and killing the target, okay. So, important piece. A couple things about this piece, though, first it's got a beveled
end that is always really difficult to see but it's got a little lip on one side and then on the other side it's flat and it always comes with this
bur that's attached to it, okay, and we need to remove that. When you buy an after market slide, a big question that people always have is does my slide already
have a channel liner in there and you know, it's really
difficult to look down in there, especially black, and see if there's already a
channel liner installed, okay. And so, I have a little hack for that on how we decide if it does. So, on this 19 slide here, this actually has a channel
liner installed, okay. This one, this is a Brownell slide, it does not come with one. Okay, I'm gonna take a Dunkin
Donuts straw right here, this is the large Dunkin Donuts straw and you can see I do have one in here if I put it down the
channel, I can't go, okay. And that's because
there is a channel liner installed in here
preventing the large straw from going in, okay,
it's gotta be a large, can't be a small. This is the same size
as your channel liner so if I take a striker here, you can see its perfect, okay. Same stuff, all right, up
against the channel liner, same thing. All right, so in this case with this 19, I have one in, I can't go in. But if you look at it here on the 17, see how it can go all the way down? No problems, okay? This does not have one in. Now with that said, I want
you to understand that so, this is an Alpha
Marksman slide, right, I mean, great slide, fantastic. And they install a channel liner for you when they send you their slide. The problem is, is that
they leave that bur in and you know, don't assemble
it correctly, right? So, while it has a channel liner in it and that's wonderful,
the bur is still there. They didn't trim it and so now what this
means, with a slide that actually comes with one, but it's got the channel
line with the bur, is I have to go in
there, pull that one out, and put another one back in so, it's kind of like, hey,
they're trying to do a customer a favor by
putting the channel liner in for you but at the same time, now I'm forced to do more
work cause I gotta take it out and, you know, put a new one in and correct the fact now. I don't mean to beat up,
you know, Alpha too much but this is the third slide I have and the same problem with all three, okay. So, they need to do some education around how to install channel liners, maybe you can point your
employees to this video. With that said, let's go back
to where we are here, okay, so important piece,
necessary piece, beveled side and we have a burred, you know,
flat side with a bur, okay? The beveled side is gonna
go down first, okay, that's important. We also need a specialty
tool in order to do that. Now, when you get a special, you don't have a choice here, okay, I mean there's lots of hacks around it but let me tell you it's a
pain in the neck, all right, you're better off just getting yourself the right tool to do this job. I always say, you know, when
it comes to slide assembly, there's two tools that you must have that you just don't wanna
mess around with, right. One is a good channel liner install tool and the other is a good sight tool and we'll talk about that when
we get to the sights, okay. And so, with the channel liner tool, basically you just put
the channel liner in there and so it's machined that
to fit the channel liner and then stop, and help you
place it all the way down. Now, you know, if you're on a budget and you're getting a
slide that doesn't have a channel liner in it, you know, you just get a cheapy like this, very inexpensive, they're on the shop. Okay, but you know, if you're gonna go a little bit more
advanced you kind of need to up your game to do a
dual channel liner type tool where one side is for install and the other side is for removal, okay. So, in the case of this 19
where that bur was in there, I'm gonna have to use this end to go in, thread it in, and pull it out, okay. Now, you can use a bolt from Home Depot and stuff like that too, okay. But depending on how much you're gonna do with building, you know, really depends on the kind of tools that
you're gonna purchase and buy. But when it comes to this job here, at a minimum, you know,
you're gonna need to spend just a few dollars, I
don't recall what they are off the top of my head. But they're under 10 bucks. And for this, and as a matter of fact, you know, I'll get to it in a minute but another good deal that's up there is this dual, you'll always
see me use a Glock tool but then a front sight tool here. Okay, this is very, very important when we're doing our
front sights, all right, to have these two tools and these are under 10 bucks too, okay. But we'll get to that after. So, with the channel liner here, we gotta get rid of this
big bur that's here, I mean, that's just, that's no good. That's disgusting. So, pretty simple. What I'm gonna do is I'm gonna
take an X-Acto knife here and I'm just gonna trim it off, okay. That's it. So, I'm just gonna come
right along the side there and get rid of it. Easy breezy, right. Nothing to it. So, that's done. Now I'm ready to install
the channel liner, okay. So, I'm gonna take my channel liner tool and I'm gonna place it on and then I'm gonna put it in. And the question might be asking, well, how far down does it need to go? And so, you know, there's kind of two, two schools of thought on it. The first is you can
see that it, you know, the tool kind of stops before the end of the channel liner, right? So, as you're going down,
some are a little longer, you'll actually hear the
tool hit the metal at the end it'll make a different
sound telling you that you are at the end of the road and the channel liner is fully installed. Some don't have that feature, okay. So, if we put in this here like so, and I come and I just mark this Okay, that's the channel liner. That's this little U right here. Well, so what does that mean? Well that means, on
your channel liner tool if we're nice and even, all right, your channel liner tool if
you take a look at this here see if we can do this on camera. We take a look at it. That U is ending, or starting, excuse me, right where the channel tool bevels, okay. That means I am gonna be correct when the bevel portion
of this tool hits the U. Then I'm gonna be completely down, okay. Because one of the
things is you can't just sit here and say bang and start banging on this down because again this is pressure and if I, you know, hit this too hard it's gonna bend all this in the front and it's not gonna keep my
firing pin straight, okay. So, just a quick little tip
on how to kind of measure visually where you're at and where you're gonna be
to be fully installed, okay, Dunkin Donut straw, large straw, right, what a fantastic little method. All right so, I'm gonna
take this tool here and I'm gonna line up my channel liner as soon as I hit this area right here where the thickness changes on the U, I know I'm gonna be fully flush because we measured it
ahead of time, okay. So, I'm just gonna take this, right, just like little light taps. No big deal. Now, if we take a look
at the channel liner that U is right there and I'm exactly where that is so I'm good. And I'm just gonna give this some twists and it will come right out for us, okay. Bang. All right, channel liner, 100%
1st Time Quality installed. Nice and easy, okay. Took our time and did it right. All right, so the channel liner is done. Now we gotta do our striker assembly. So, I'm gonna bring a block, I'm gonna show you a
couple of different ways to do this. I'm just gonna bring
the Glock operator tool, this is another tool that
I use specifically for this project but it also
has the 3/32 Glock punch on it which is also convenient, okay. We got our striker, we've got our spring, we've got our cups, and we've got our sleeve. Okay, and so what we're gonna do is we're gonna take our striker and we're gonna take our sleeve, okay, you're gonna put the
striker into the sleeve and pull it through. Then our spring is gonna go
on top of the rod like this, and these cups are gonna
come into the spring and hold the spring tension
under the head, okay. So, taking again, a look
at one that's assembled. This is what it's gonna look like, right. Our rod just came through
the spacer sleeve like that. We put the spring over,
then we're gonna pull the spring down and those cups are going
to lock it under the head. So, I'm gonna just change
position of the camera so that we can have a nice
closeup of this process. All right, I changed my mind for a second because I wanna go over
some things with the spring first before I move cameras around, okay. Because I'm detailed and you know I am dedicated to making sure that you have all of the information you need for a 1st Time
Quality result, okay. So, I just wanna talk to you really quick about springs because, you know what, while I can show you how to assemble this probably like dozens of
videos on YouTube show you, the reality is they don't
explain it correctly and I gotta be honest with you, every single install
video that I have watched they have done it wrong, okay. I'm not counting myself, trust me, I just want you to have a
1st Time Quality product and I don't want you to be in a position where your gun doesn't work, okay. So, for a spring here, spring systems either run
in a right facing coil in other words the coils
are turning to the right, or a left facing system, okay. This happens to be a
right facing coil system. Now, I can tell that because this springs, one on the bottom is cut,
one on the top is cut, the coil is coming around
and then its cut, okay. Now that's important for one reason. We need to know where
this top cut happened, in other words did that top cut happen you know, a quarter of
the way around the coil? Is it only a quarter of a coil? Is it a half a coil? Is it 3/4 of a coil? Right, how much did it go around before they cut the coil? Now, the way we tell
that is if we get to the bottom cut and we look at the bottom cut and we point the bottom cut
to the 12 o'clock position. Okay, then we look at the top and we say, okay, here's
the 12 o'clock position, here's 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock, this particular spring is
cut at 9 o'clock, right. So that means that that coil
comes 3/4 of the way around before they snip it, okay. Now, this is important
because when we actually put this on our striker rod, so this is how it's gonna go into the gun just like this, okay. When we put this on, we want to make sure that that cut right here, right where they cut it
at the 9 o'clock position is going to be either on the bottom or at the 12 o'clock position so that cut, right, where it came around 3/4 is either gonna be at the
12 o'clock position here or at the 6 o'clock position here, okay. Now why? All right, so look. This is an example of a firing pin and spring where somebody
put this on, okay, well that somebody is me
because I like to demonstrate why, okay. You have to understand
that these two cups, these two spring cups
come together, right, as one unit which means what? Which means there's gonna be a seam, okay. Now there is a ton of tension, right, for the deflection of
how this spring works on the spring cups and what happens is if you put the seam like it is on this one,
right on where that cut is, okay, that very weak
point because that was at the 9 o'clock position
instead of the 12 o'clock position is the weakest
point of this spring cause it is not a full coil. They put the seam right there. This is going to, you
know, it's gonna give way. All right, it's not a
1st Time Quality piece. So, when we put this on the rod here, and we go ahead and
install our spring cups, what we wanna do, again, is keep that cut either at the 12 o'clock position or the 6 o'clock position, okay. Now when we do that,
we wanna make sure that the seam isn't what? Isn't on that piece. So the seam is gonna be
easy for us to figure out because we wanna put a
spring cup on the bottom and on the top which
is gonna make our seam at the 3 o'clock position and the 9 o'clock position
which is gonna give full coverage so I'm just
gonna take it off the rod so we can see here. If I put this at the 12 o'clock position, just for demonstration purposes, when I put it in if I put it in like this it's
gonna be right on the seam. That's no good. But if I do it the other way, and I have the seam at
the three and the nine, now I've got full coverage
over that weak point, okay, and that's what we want. So, you can either do nine and three, or 10 and four, all right, I know that's probably a little confusing but as we, you know,
put this on I'll explain that some more, okay. So now, getting the spring onto the rod and then trying to put the spring cups in you need like, you know,
10 hands to do it, okay, so there's, you know, ways
that people have come up with. Probably the biggest is to use a slide. I'll just put the camera
up a little bit like this. And so, we have the hole
of our channel liner, okay, and what they do is, you
know, they take where the channel liner is, right, they put this in the hole and then this, you know, stops the rod from moving down. We'll bring the camera
up a minute like this. And then go ahead and use the spring and push it down, right. So, it helps them, okay. But here I'm still trying
to balance (laughter) you know, the slide and now I have to have another fingers to kind of go in there
and get those cups in. And you know, it's not
that it doesn't work, it's a pretty, you know, genius method, but it does require you to
have a flat slide, right. If you have any type of bullnose slide, it's gonna be all over the place and that's no good. And you have to be on a surface that's not gonna mar the front of the slide. That's just one way you can do it, okay, it's just not how I'm
gonna do it, all right. I have, you know, again, I'm gonna use a specialty tool to to it but I realize that you might not have
a Glock operator tool so if you have just your bench block, this is yet another
way that you can do it. You can, you know, put the rod into the spacer sleeve like this, and then just drop it in the hole and it kind of sticks
up on an angle like that and now I can work and do
what I need to do, okay? So now, remember this is down, right. And this side is up, right,
cause it's like this. Bang, right? So it's like, if I put
it in here like this, that's how that is, okay. So, now I wanna pay
attention to where my cut is which is right there, okay. So, if I'm gonna put it
in the 6 o'clock position, I just put it down like that and there it is. Now I don't want you
to worry too much about getting it off, you
know, from the jump here, you know, pushing this in and making sure that's the right way because the reality is
is that it's a lot easier once its on we can adjust it. So, where is that other one? So, you know how this one was wrong? Move over here. This is what I'm trying to tell you. I can just pull down on these springs and I can twist these cups into position just like that, okay. So don't worry about getting
it right on the gate. Worry about getting, you
know, these little spring cups seated properly. So one is gonna come
here in the front, right, so that the seam is at
the nine on this side, the three on that side, okay. So, I'm gonna take the
spring cup here, all right, I'm gonna pull down,
I'm just gonna drop it right into place, all right. So I just take it and drop it right in. Take the other one and drop it right in. So now you can see that they're in. Just pinch it and let it come
back up to the striker, okay. So then check to make
sure, right, so here we are I'm down and our seam
is beautiful right there on the square portion, right, 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock so that's a good
to go 1st Time Quality piece and again, like I showed you, don't worry if you don't get them
seated absolutely 100% because you can pull it down and kind of just move
it around easier, okay? So, that's how you do it with a block. I'll show you how to do it
with a Glock operator tool as well. So, with the Glock operator tool, it has some openings for your spring to fit in here like so, okay. So, you just come down a couple coils and you place your spring in, okay. Then you take your rod
with your spacer sleeve and you push it into the
tool, through the spring and seat it down like that, okay. So now, once that's in,
then what we're gonna do is we're gonna push this up and I'm gonna put it into
the little notch that's there and that's gonna hold
the spring under tension and it's gonna expose
the head of the striker and it's gonna allow me to
you know, place the cups a lot more easy, okay. So I'm just gonna come
up push this to the right and then it seats in there like that. And now I have more control here, okay, cause I don't have my fingers holding down the spring on tension and I can go ahead and place the cups directly into the system like that, okay, with full control. You know, that's the wonderful part about this little tool is I
have total control here. Okay, so, spring cups get seated in, okay. Nice, nice, I orient them any way I want. You know, I don't have any
pressure on my fingers. Nice and easy, okay. And then once I have them
where I'm set, all right, I just gonna flip this over, the tension's gonna pull it
down just like that, okay, and then I just pull it out of the tool and I am good to go, okay. So, cool little tool if
you wanna specialty tool that's also in the shop for you to get. All right, so, strikers are done. Striker assembly's done. Now let's talk about our
extractor plunger, the spring, and the bearing. All right, so for the extractor plunger, and our spring, and this is a loaded
chamber indicator bearing. Now, I'm gonna show you
how to assemble this but I said earlier that
I'm gonna change this out to a nonloaded
chamber indicator bearing, a non LCI with a different spring, okay. And again, I'm showing
you this because I don't wanna confuse you, I'm
just gonna show you how to do the OEM piece here. But if you have a 9mm and 40 cal, you absolutely, positively have to watch the ejection and extraction video, I will put that as an in screen at the end of this video
for you to check out, okay, but if you're using
anything else, you know, using a loaded chamber indicator spring and bearing with your extractor plunger absolutely positively no problems, you'll be good to go, okay. So basically what we do, is we just take our extractor plunger and we put it down. We take the spring, you're
just gonna hear it click in as I push down. Just like that, okay. And then you're gonna take your bearing and same thing, you're
just gonna put it on top and you're gonna push down and it will click in place. There it is, okay. Just wanna make sure its fully seated all the way to the coil. That it's seated completely, you know, I have seen plenty of times where they don't seat this completely
either on the plunger or here and then they have all sorts of issues around extraction, okay. All right, so that is done. So we have our striker,
we have our plunger, all right so the safety plunger now and spring. So, to install this,
all you do is you hold the safety plunger, you get the spring, you put it in the hole and then I'm gonna
press in with the spring and I'm gonna turn towards me, okay, and you should hear it
click into place right away. Just like that, okay. So in, and there. Now when you turn it upside
down it should stay in place. If it falls out it's no good. Do not put it into the slide, okay. Now, you might be here,
gonna just take it out, you might be here and you might be wrestling
with this, right, trying to put it in, turn it towards you, and it's not clicking in, okay, in those instances, you know, listen, I don't want you to go crazy and bend this spring and you know, now have to
stop a build over a seriously, a five cent spring, okay. So, you know, give it a couple tries until you get used to it. Come in, towards you, and it's in. I mean I'm not turning
almost at all towards me, I'm kind of just pivoting it and it stays in, okay. But if you're having too many issues, you know I was a newbie once, you know, way back when too. This is what you do to
make sure it stays in. Just put the safety plunger upside down, put the spring in, get
your Glock tool, okay, or a 3/32nds punch, same thing, okay, and come down the center of the spring and you're just gonna push down into the safety plunger, okay, and it's going to seat and keeping my finger as a guide because if you slip, guess what, spring is going into the abyss. Okay, I hear it snap in just like that. And then I'm gonna pull the tool out. Okay, and then it will be in. You'll be good to go. I'm gonna take my safety plunger, spring is held in place, and I'm gonna drop it into
the hole just like that I'm gonna put my thumb
over it just for now. All right, so I'm just
gonna hold it in place I'm not putting any pressure
on it right this minute cause I just wanna show you the extractor. So, the extractor can only
go in one way, all right. But your dipped end, your beveled end is gonna face towards the front of the gun just like this, okay, and what I'm gonna do
is I'm gonna drop it in just like that. Now I'm gonna say this again. There is no way in hell
that you'll ever catch MGB with a junk dip MIM
extractor in his gun. I'm only doing this to
show you from an OEM assembly perspective,
okay, but if you have a 9mm 40 cal, again, you've gotta watch the ejection and extraction video. I mean, I just can't preach that enough. All right, so now I just
have my finger over this I'm gonna drop this into place, okay. I'm gonna press down and I'm gonna feel it lock in, okay. And once I let go, it's in place. And you are good to go only you're not good to go cause you need to
change that shit like pronto. All right, any other caliber you're fine. So, that's that. So now, let me move the
camera up a little bit here. Now that that's done, we have our plunger and we have our beautiful striker assembly that we did. So, I'm gonna be using this one, I know we spent all our time
polishing that other one nice, nice, okay, but
I'm using my own here that I wanna use. So, what we're gonna do is we're gonna take this plunger with
the metal end facing down, metal end facing down, and we are going to put it
into this hole right here. Okay, so we're gonna put the
plunger right into that hole, metal end facing down. Just like that. Okay, I'm gonna take the striker, okay, and I'm gonna put it down into the channel just like so. Easy breezy, boom, just like that. And that's gonna sit in, right, you should have and feel
some action here on it, okay. Well now, we need to put our backplate on. So, with the backplate, if we take a look at the backplate, right, it's got the same shape and outline indented as what? As our spacer sleeve, right. So, if we take a look, that's exactly how we need that to line up, okay. Well, it's not just gonna go on cause we gotta put some pressure and push that down. So, I'm gonna stand this up and I'm gonna adjust this other camera all right, so now we're ready
to put this backplate on. Okay, so what I do is I
just kind of line it up where I want it to be and I put my thumb on it
just like that, right, cause if it gets all crooked
it's really difficult to get out. Now what we need to do is we need to push this striker assembly down,
sneak in on it a little bit, and then push the extractor plunger down and seat it all the way, okay. And so a lot of times
what people do is they get their, you know, punch and they're trying to push this down but this is a small tool and it can be kind of
difficult to, you know, push that down with a Glock tool. So, what I do is I use
the channel liner tool. Right, it's nice and thick. And what I do is I just kind
of come up into this corner cause it's round and it
fits in there nice and good. And all I do is I just push down and it seats right away, okay. And then I just pull it out. Okay, then you can use the
Glock tool for the small one. All right, the Glock
tool for the small one, and then in. See, the small one's not
bad cause if you're already lined up and you're not crooked, you'll be good to go for
the small one, all right. But if you're not, forget it. It's a nightmare, okay, I pushed it, snap it into place just like so. And now we have pretty
much an assembled slide. All right Freedom Protectors, so now our girl is all set. She's got all of her
internal components in, she's looking nice and sweet with that 1st Time Quality look. But we need to help her see, right? So she needs that front post,
she needs the rear sight, and we're gonna give her an optic and then once we do that, we'll put the barrel
in, the recoil spring, and I'll show you how to oil it and lube her up so she
is ready to meet her man. All right, so we're gonna
put the optic aside for now. And we're going to work on the front post and our rear sight. So, as I said earlier, these
are the suppressor height fiber optic sights by Steel City Arsenal. It really doesn't matter
what kind of sights you go with it's all pretty
much the same install. All right, so we got the sights out here, what we're gonna do, just gonna
get a pair of scissors here. And we're gonna go ahead
and cut these open. Pour it out, okay. So it comes with extra fiber optics so we're just gonna put
that over to the side. Here's our two pieces we need to put in. Now for this I'm gonna get a little piece of cardboard over here
because we are going to use some Loctite with this which if I can find where it is, oh here it is right
here, right an organized workspace is a workspace of quality as I always say. It's in a red tube but it's blue Loctite. So that's what we're
gonna be using to go ahead and put these down. Now, you know, there's
always a lot of discussion about what type of Loctite, blue Loctite, red Loctite, Super Glue, so on and so forth, okay. The reality is is that I always use blue. But I've used red plenty of times and I have seen (laughter) I have seen sights fail with both in my lifetime, okay. But for the most part, you know, blue is more than enough,
blue is a medium duty, the red is high strength. If you ever have to
remove anything, though, red is a lot harder to remove. You gotta heat it up with a hair dryer to take it off then use some Goo Gone to clean up any of the residue. We'll talk about the front post first then we'll get to the rear, okay. So, with the front, it's got
a little screw right here and this needs to come off. You take the tool here,
you just put it on, locks right into place, I mean, it's made to fit the screw, okay. Then we just unscrew. Okay, then we don't lose our screws. That's important. We can take it, put it in, we can see, let me put this light down in there, nice and bright for you. You can see that's exactly what our screw needs to go into. Now look, the truth to the matter is, we just talked about
Loctite for a second, right, if you put this in without Loctite, Freedom Protector, I'm guaranteeing you that thing is gonna come flying off and you're gonna lose it. Okay, you're gonna lose the screw and possibly even the sight, okay. So, you know, Loctite
for a front post here is pretty much nonnegotiable, all right. So, how we're gonna do
that is I'm just gonna leave it on there for a second. We're gonna put it onto the screw and then from the tool into the sight and lock it down, okay, fairly simple. So, you take your bottle
of, or tube in this instance of Loctite, give it a good shake. Okay, come over here and I'm just gonna put a dab on the screw itself. So I'm gonna put it in like this and I'm gonna do just like that. Just a dab. That's it. That's all you need. Nothing big, okay. Then we'll come over here,
get you in the light, Line up my posts, perfect. Okay, there's the hole, here's the screw. And I'm just gonna come
right down in there. Put it into the hole and tighten that down. I'll even give you this angle right here so you can see it coming in, right. Once you're in, nice and
tight, Loctited down. So, what I do is I go hand tight and then just a, maybe
an 8th of a turn more. Okay, cause you don't
wanna strip the screw. All right, and there it is. She's in there nice and good. Okay, you can see that the Loctite, cause we put it on the tip, right, followed the threads all the way down. We got a little bit right there. So we can just go ahead and kind of wipe your
little excess that's there right off cause it is sticky, right. That's good to go. Perfect. All right, so, our front sight is on. Now listen, with this
you have to let it set up for 24 hours, okay, we're
gonna actually use this when we do the optic as well, okay. But you can't fire this
for a whole day, okay. And as a matter of fact, they say a day, I usually preplan ahead that I'll do this if I know I'm gonna go to the range like on a Friday, I'll
usually do it like at the beginning of the week, okay. That way, you know, I
know it's nice and solid and it's in there, okay. So that's the front. Now we need to talk about our rear sight. Sight pusher here is probably, I would say the best value on the market and by that what I mean
is, you know, listen, I don't like cheap, I like
inexpensive but quality, right, I call that value. And so this Vism here, in my opinion, is one of the best valued
tools on the market, okay. If you're going to do
any type of building, you're going to need a sight pusher. Period. Okay, now look, if you're
only gonna do one build here and you don't think that you're gonna do a whole lot more which,
by the way, is false cause you're gonna become an
addict like the rest of us, okay, once you do one, forget it. It's like tattoos,
cigarettes, and alcohol, and gambling, you're screwed, okay. You're gonna do more. But if you're like, nope, I'm not. This is actually right on sale right now for 38 bucks which is
the cheapest I have ever seen it, which is fantastic because, you know, I have
a big pro Wheeler one that's, I mean, cost me I
wanna say 170 at the time and then you need all
sorts of attachments for it and everything else. But this one here really, I mean look, I beat the shit out of it, right. And we've done so many with this. I've had to change a couple of parts here and there over the years but I mean, literally, I'm in the
hundreds with this one. And it has just been a fantastic tool for such a value price, okay. But my point there was that if you don't, you know, if you're on
a budget, I got you man, you know, 40 bucks is 40 bucks, right. And you don't have it. Most times if you go
to your local gun store you know, they'll definitely
do a sight install for you for under 20 bucks. I mean, almost all of them. And I would even say that
a large portion of them if you have a relationship
with them already, they'll do it for you for free. I mean, you know, gun
stores are, you know, getting customers in the
door is everything for them. You know, they've got such
competition with the internet that I'm sure if you just go in and buy a box of ammunition and make some friends with some fellow gun lovers they'd be happy to
take care of it for you, okay. But if you have a sight
pusher, this is exactly how you do a rear sight. So with this particular system, there's a couple universal ones but with this particular system, you put some shoes in,
so I have flat shoes, it comes with angled
shoes but this is Glock so we're gonna use flat shoes. It's got a bottom shelf here that your, let me just take this out for a second. That your slide is gonna go into. It's gonna sit on the bottom shelf, I gotta move the top up, okay. It's gonna sit on the bottom
shelf just like this, okay. And so then what happens is these come in and clamp, all right, you wanna line it up to where your dovetail is cause this side is gonna do what? It's gonna push those to
the left or to the right so you know, it's not
only for putting them on but also taking them off. So what you have to do
is you have to adjust your bottom plate here to kind of be where you wanna be to push out
to the left or to the right have enough clearance. So, this is pretty close
except that these are suppressor height sights
so they're kind of curved I'm gonna go ahead and kind of just test it here. So you wanna be in the center and you wanna be as flat on
the shelf as possible, okay. Then you tighten these bad boys up on the left and the right. Just like so. Okay, making sure that
you have enough clearance as you see, I'm right
where I need to be there. Okay, to get it on or to get it off. All right, I'm gonna come
in from the left side so I'm gonna kind of
move it like right here. And then in the top
you would push it down. So that's kind of how that works, okay, and then this keeps it in place, it keeps it nice and sturdy, all right. And this goes in here
like I said, I've taken off stuff that this really
shouldn't have been used to be taking sights off with. But it has done its job, okay. All right, so that's
how that's gonna work. So I'm gonna keep this
kind of way over here because I'm gonna put the sight on next right after I measured it. So a lot of times what people
do, is they put the sight in, they're trying to measure this, I actually like to measure
it exactly where I want beforehand that way I
can just loosen these, put this up, sneak it out, I'm already where I need to be with the shelf. Put the sight on and put it in. So that's what we're gonna do. All right, so that's ready to go for us. Before I put it in, I wanna make sure that I can get about halfway across, okay. Because the last thing you wanna
do here is get stuck, okay, so here I can see I'm not, I won't even say half. I say a good solid third
of the way across, okay. And I'm not there. All right, so what I'm gonna do is right here we're gonna do a little bit of filing. I turned it upside down
cause it goes on like that. I'm gonna turn it upside down and I'm gonna put the file here and I'm gonna come that way. Now why? Well because that's the
direction its going on. All right, so I wanna follow that. Do it a couple times and then you give it
another little test fit. See how you're doing. Okay, good. All right, and so you just
repeat this process nice and gentle, taking your time. Until you're exactly where you need to be. This should be good there. Let's see. So, yep, so about a good
third of the way on. Actually, probably even a little more, probably about 40% so we're good there. We're planning to go on. Before we put this in and push it on, I'm just
gonna take my cardboard right here for a second and I'm just gonna take
a little bit of oil, all right, whatever oil you have, it doesn't matter, okay. Whatever oil you got and I'm just gonna place a
little bit right in the channel so that when we push it on, it's gonna be nice and
lubricated, get it in there. Nice and lubed up for us, okay. Just gonna make that
process so much easier. That one little extra step. All right, so we're
gonna get our girl here, we're gonna line her up. She's good to go. Get our sight pusher, let
me move the camera back just a little bit. Right here. Gonna push this through, all right, you see how I lined all that up earlier? And how it's perfect now? Exactly what you wanna do
there, Freedom Protector, okay, just wanna make
contact here on the left and on the right. Okay, good. We'll hold her down with our top brace. Okay, she's nice and flush. She's good to go. All right, we'll get our trusted
block that I love so much, give us a little bit of height so we have a straight shot on it and the camera's not pointing down. What we're gonna do now is
we're just gonna push it on. I'm gonna turn this and push it on. And so, I'm not gonna actually use this. One of the great things about this tool is that you can use a ratchet
to, you know, crank it on. Okay, this one, the
Steel City Arsenal sights are really good, especially
after you file them down, they go on pretty easy. But if you start to struggle, you know, you just switch to a ratchet and you're good to go, all right. So we're gonna crank this
on, try to line it up as best as we can. And then we'll take some
measurements to make sure we're right where we need to be. Okay, so you see how easy this is? Nice and simple. Just goes straight on. The biggest thing that
you have to watch for when you do sights is
if you're not locked in and you start to see any of the sides, especially the side you're pulling from raising up, okay, like it's getting tilted and out of place. So that's really what you're watching, also while you're putting
this on that there's no raising, everything
is staying nice and flat. Just about there. Maybe a quarter more turn. And I think we'll be good. So, relieve the pressure from the top. Okay, then relieve the
pressure from this side and its gonna come out a lot easier. I'll just do that. All right, give us a
relief of that pressure. And then we can take it out. All right, so after you
confirm everything is lined up and looking good, which
this looks fantastic. We need to go ahead cause this is suppressor height sights, right, we need to lock down the pins. So, the allen wrench that comes with suppressor height sights and you tighten it down. And you know, we follow the same thing. We kind of go all the way
down till we're hand tight and then we just do an eighth of a turn and we're good to go with that. Perfect, okay, perfect. All right, beautiful sights. Nice, perfect, okay. So, now we need to do the optic. So we're gonna clean this up, this here. We're gonna get our Holosun, all right, your 507c or whatever optic you have when they say RMR cut, ruggedized mini reflex sight,
that's what RMR stands for. They are referring to Trijicon, okay, but Holosun as you know
is a fraction of the cost Trijicon is great, don't get me wrong. They're fantastic sights,
sorry fantastic optics. However they are very expensive, okay. So, Holosun is what we're gonna use here on this build. We have some little screws. I'm gonna tell you right
now that the screws that usually come with
an optic almost never fit your slide, so when you order a slide, wherever you order it
from make sure you save the screws for that. And actually, I always
carry an extra set of screws in my bag when I'm at the range just in case I lose one,
which you shouldn't, but I always keep it as a backup and look it says, what's it say? Experience gunsmith
installation recommended. That's you Freedom Protector, you are now becoming an
experienced gunsmith. Okay, so with the Holosun, what happens here is, oh I'm sorry, the other thing too is
it comes with two tools. It comes with this tool
here which is to do all of you adjustments, okay, and it's got two prongs and I'll show you cause
the battery in the bottom you put the two prongs in, you turn it and that's how you get
to the battery, okay. We're gonna take our little
torx key that they send okay, and we're gonna
remove these two screws. Because this optic is on a riser, okay, so if you're gonna put this on anything with a Picatinny rail this
is what that riser is for. We're not doing that cause we know we have our slide cut for it
so what we're gonna do is just take these screws
out, back them out, and take it off of the riser. All right, so we take them off the riser and then just put them
back in because again, you know, they you'll be at Home Depot or Lowes trying to figure out
what kind of little screws do they have and do they fit and that is just a pain in the neck so, I just put them back in. And I put the riser back in the box, okay. Perfect. Now, like I said, the
screws I already know that they're not gonna fit
so I wanna put those aside. So basically what happens
here as I was telling you with the battery is its got two prongs on the tool that they send you, okay, and those two prongs line up in here just like so. And then you just turn this off and then you can get to the battery, okay. And then again, it has
the key to do our windage and elevation so in other words, this is a little thing
you don't wanna lose so, one of the things that I do and I'll do a video someday on it, we'll get to it is my range bag setup. I have, you know, just a keyring with an extendable cord on it, and I have all my like little tools that the different weapons I have need and they're on that keyring and I'm always with it and I don't lose it, it's
attached to my range bag, okay. But we're gonna put this aside for now because what we need to
do, we need to drop this on into place just like that. And we need to just put two screws in it. And I mean, you're done. It's that simple, you
know, obviously you need to sight it in but as far as
the installation procedure, I mean these things
are just so easy to do. They're straightforward, okay. Drops right onto your prongs there and wanna put the two screws in. Before you put the screws in, okay, I got this other blank
slide so I can show you something because
typically we would do this before we assemble everything. With these screws, a lot of the companies still haven't caught up. You know, some have, some haven't. But if they're the same
size, they're both long, that's gonna be no good. You're gonna have to grind
down one of the screws for the right hand side
because the screw is too long and it's gonna catch the
extractor plunger, okay. And so again, you know,
some companies they send you one long, one short. The short one for the right hand side but a lot of them haven't
caught up to the fact that is actually occurring, okay, so if you're in the
situation where you got two screws that are the same length, they're both long. We've gotta take one and we've gotta grind one down. And actually, let me show you what I mean. Let me grab a plunger. So, here's an extractor plunger, okay. And what happens is as you know, cause we just assembled this
sits in here like that, okay, and the screws because they're too long what will happen is it will get caught on your extractor plunger, okay. Now, had assembled like
again, we're doing it methodically here in the video, but if you had assembled and then went ahead and we just put this in
to screw down our optic what's gonna happen is
your extractor plunger is gonna get caught up as you cycle and you're gonna have all
sorts of ejection issues and obviously we don't want
any of that nonsense, right. So, my little screw
doesn't wanna go in here. So there we go. So, let me show you what I mean I wanna just tighten this down, right. So we're pretending
the optics on right now and our extractor plunger is in and what you'll see is
that it won't come out, right, it's gonna get hung up. It's stuck, all right. And so as this gun is cycling again, it's gonna get hung up, you're
gonna have extracting issues. So, what we need to do is we need to grind just about two threads,
that's about all you're gonna need to do here on the little screw. Okay, well, how do we do that? So, you know, look, I
mean taking a little screw like this (laughter) with the grinding bit of the Dremel not really efficient, okay. So I'll show you what I do here. This is a 440 by half screw, okay, and I always keep, you
know, this stuff here at Home Depot is like 50 cents. I'll actually throw a link with the rest of the Amazon products if
you want, just pick them up. Okay but they're just screws and nuts. And so what I do is I take the frame and right in your mag well hole here, what I do is I put this in just like so. Okay, and then I take
one of my 440 by halves and I put the nut on, okay. Now this is doing two things
for me right here, okay. The first thing that it's doing, I'm just gonna line it
up so that two threads are showing just like that. So this does two things, number one, I can now come in here with my Dremel and my grinding stone and take off those two threads much easier than if I was trying to pinch it and hold it or even trying
to put that in a vise is a nightmare. You know, you see some
people try to use pliers and go like this, oh,
that's too much work. So this gives me the
nice ability to keep it just like this and go ahead and just
grind off those two little threads cause we don't need much. We just need to make sure
that we have enough clearance for that extractor plunger. Now that's one thing it does. But the second thing and probably the most important thing it's gonna do for us is it's gonna protect our starting thread. So, remember we're sitting here, we're gonna grind off two threads well if you don't have
anything to protect that you're gonna run into a situation where you could bur up your starting threads so now when we go to put it in, it's not gonna start appropriately. The nut here is going
to protect those threads cause we don't wanna ruin those. So as I grind down I'm
gonna grind down there and the nut, again,
protecting our starting thread so we don't have any more issues, don't have to do any
filing, anything like that. So I'm just gonna take the Dremel, now you can use whatever grinding stone you have in your Dremel kit. I mean, some come with
orange, some come with pink, some come with green. They'll all do the job efficiently, okay. So just gonna turn this on and bang this out. (Dremel buzzing) All right, so that's all she wrote. Turn this off. Okay, now we took off those two threads. We're good to go. Okay, we'll just take this off. I'll put this stuff away and we'll just throw this in. Put our Loctite on, we'll be good to go. So now we got the optic
just sitting on there. We're gonna just put our two
screws in with some Loctite and we're good to go. Now the thing is that
these screws are tiny, they fit exactly into those posts, right, so getting them in there, getting them started, you
know, can be challenging at times, okay. One of the things that I keep on my bench are magnets, okay, so
these little magnets here. I always keep them and by the way, one of
the probably greatest uses I have for magnets other
than what I'm gonna show you here with tools is I
put some 3m tape on these and I mount them
underneath my safe shelves and then I use that to
hold all my magazines so all my magazines
aren't sitting on shelves, they're locked underneath
the shelves via magnets and these are, you know, $1.50
at your hardware store, okay, very easy to do, really good. Okay, but what I'm gonna
do is I'm gonna actually take this and I'm gonna
magnetize this tool a little bit, okay, so just you know, put it on the magnet that way what? You know I gotta get in there, right, kinda got deep, shallow
one shot to get in there I'm gonna have thread lock around it. I don't want it all over the place. And then so, then I now have
a magnetized tool, okay. To help me do that install. So, I'm gonna just put it in place and it's the same thing,
I'm gonna put a little drop right on top here. And then we're just
gonna screw it right in. Pretty easy, right? So give this a little shake. I'm just gonna take a
little blurb just like that, put this on, that's way too much. And because I'm magnetized now, all I'm gonna do is dip, see? Just like that. Watch it. And once I have that, we're just gonna go right into the hole here. And tighten it down. Same thing, hand tight, 1/8th. That's one, good to go. Now we just gotta do the other side. Same thing. Take it, put it on the tool, I'm gonna dip just like that, okay, and straight into the hole. Perfect. Love it when a plan comes together. Good, all right, easy breezy! As I always say. Nothing like putting
in an optic that gives you no trouble whatsoever, okay. Perfect, we'll put all that stuff aside. Put that aside, don't need any of that. Don't need this anymore. I usually keep my fiber optics again, something else I keep in the range bag. Put that over there. Okay, and then just go in with a rag, clean up any leftover
Loctite that you have that has come up, it always
does just a tiny bit. So, you know, just give that a little, a little clean. Just dab it in there, it comes right off. Okay, beautiful optic. All right, look at her, huh? Doesn't she look good? That is looking like a
combat slide right there and I really love the fact that Brownells is continuing to design and improve on their original design with window cuts, I mean
that looks just great. And so, you know, big ups to them continuing to push the envelope on what you can send us for really good cost. All right, this looks great. So now, all we have to
do, I gotta clean this up and we gotta get ready to oil our stuff, put her together, okay. All right, we got our recoil spring back. We got our barrel back,
okay remember this has been soaking in the Ballistol the whole time and I just looked down at my timer and we're at an hour in this video. So, I'm going to have to go ahead and put an index in so you can skip to whatever piece that you want, okay. With this slide and
lubricating this slide, there's four spots that we're gonna hit with the slide, okay. The first spot is gonna
be well I'll call them one, two. The first two is gonna
be right in the channel where we're coming along our rails, okay. A lot of times I see posts and people are like, well, I
just put my sight together, I put it on the frame, and
it's real sticky, okay. And somebody will always comment, oh, all you gotta do is
rack it 400 times, okay. Yeah, that's true. Metal on metal eventually will wear down. Okay, but the first question I always ask well, it's sticking, I got ya, and yes, you probably
have to break it in but did you oil in your channel of your slide, right, to give it some lubrication, maybe you don't have to do it 450 times, maybe you only have to
do it 10 times, okay. But anyway, for pure
lubrication of a slide, we're gonna come into these channels here I'm gonna show you how
to get the whole channel. We're gonna put, so one drop here, one drop in this side. We're gonna put one drop
right under the hood of the barrel so as that
slide comes over our barrel it's got really nice action in here. And I'm gonna put one right back here so we have all of that action coming back over our trigger housing that is holding our connector for our reset, okay, so we're gonna put one drop right there and that's it. No other lubrication
for a Glock slide, okay. So, all you gotta do is just
get whatever lubrication you're gonna use, whatever
oil you're gonna use, I'm gonna have some patches here. And I have my old NRA credit card which this is all it's good for now is oiling my slides. Okay and basically what
we're gonna do first is we're gonna do the channel, so a drop on this side, drop on this side and then what I do is
I take the credit card, I wrap a patch in it, like so, okay, and then I just pull that oil all the way
down that channel so it's perfectly in there, nice and oiled, okay. So, take your oil, little
bead right in there, just like that, okay. One on one side, one on the other. And while I'm here,
remember that we're gonna do one spot right here, okay, so I'm gonna do that
spot also just while I'm up here, okay. Then just come down, if
you have a little needle to do it, that's great too. All right, and then we just take our patch and we're gonna run them down the channel. Pretty simple, okay. And the credit card
fits perfectly in there. Just like so. And I just drag that oil all the way down. On either side. Perfect, okay. Adjust it, get the front of it. Right in there. Pull the oil in on either side. Great, okay. Pretty simple, pretty easy. All right, and then the
last thing you need to do is just put one drop
right there on the hood. That's it. Okay, so I usually just drop it like that. Then I just kind of rub it
with my finger in there. Make sure we get the whole hood, right. Just like that. Perfect, okay. Now we have a good lubed slide. Wipe her down, my oily hands. All right, so that's good. Now all we have to do
is assemble it, okay. So, what we're gonna do is
we're gonna take our barrel here all right, this one has this
thread protector for shipping that they give us. Just undo that. Okay, your barrel goes in just like so. Okay, let me flip this around a bit. On a barrel you have two notches. Okay, one is for assembly and the other is firing, okay. And so basically, all I do
is I take my recoil spring Come in, I push with my thumb, and I seat it into the first notch. Okay, the notch all the
way down in the bottom. And then when you rack the slide, it drops into this position
which is the firing position, okay. That first notch is for assembly only. And then this is the firing position. And there we have it Freedom Protectors, an outstanding, beautiful, combat looking, ready to go, ready to
fire, 1st Time Quality, slide assembly. (upbeat music)
