Starting The Wiring and FIRST START UP | 1970 LS Swap Chevy C10

all righty well this one took me a little while to film getting started on the wiring uh first things first that i had to do was make sure that i could have powered everything so battery cables were first i used the painless wiring battery kit as well as a hydraulic crimper all right got this all painted radiators in for good got my brackets and the isolators that's what i was waiting on was those isolators but now that's in i have all of the i have negative to the battery the block block to the frame we've got back of the block to the cab we have a cab to the frame we also have core support to the frame and then i have this grounding block or grounding lug that i can run something from the inside um and then run it directly over to the battery so that's in now we got to make our positive terminals so we're gonna go positive i'm gonna loop this down here come all the way to the starter i can finally get this on there go to the starter and continue getting this thing wired up [Music] all right it's positive post down snakes through there down to the starter pcm is also attached to the starter there so we are going to move on to the alternator after the battery kit we started on the alternator now i went and bought the payments performance alternator kit which you don't have to do because with the entire wiring harness and fuse panel the chassis harness that comes with that so i had two of those i didn't return it i actually ended up using it for a little bit of additional wiring and whatnot so it was nice to have that little bit extra but you don't need to buy that once the alternator was in and wired up essentially what i needed to do is start going through the harness and figure out what wires that i needed what wires that i didn't need when i first got this thing i was very intimidated by it but once you break it down it's really fairly simple all right so we have the painless wiring kit here and when i first got it i definitely was a little bit intimidated by it at first but once you kind of break it down it's not so bad so it's basically three trunks of this you have your under the dash you have your tail section and then you have your engine section and then you can split these up so this for example and i labeled where did i put it basically in this one this is mainly your power to it this is going to be to your engine so this is going to be a lot of sources for your gauges and things like that so a lot of this is we're actually not going to use uh and then for your headlights you come to the tail section this all gets split up same thing tail lights third brake lights all of that well this is third brake light which we're gonna use even though the truck doesn't have one i'll show you what we're gonna do there some of it can be repositioned so like the dome light obviously is in the cab that doesn't need to be in the tail section so we're going to put that more kind of in this under dash section but then your under dash basically gets split up into a few different things you've got your goes to your dimmer switch this is basically just your this is delete and i don't remember why oh the cooling fan this that's going to be controlled by the pcm so we don't necessarily need that um here we've got the gauge cluster so that goes to all your gauges again we're not going to use most of these because or probably any of them because the pcm is going to take care of that and we've got to your turn signal switch then you've got to your ignition switch and you've got your headlight switch here we have other switches and then that dome light so when you break it up into sections it definitely becomes much less uh intimidating so this is pretty much all that needs to go through the firewall and then this actually will have to go through the firewall but in a separate section because it's going to the rear of the truck and then all of this is going to be tucked up under the dash somewhere so makes it a little bit easier okay so first things first is the fuse box for the pcm now this needed a place to go so i'm making a bracket that will put this like right here in hidden but still serviceable so the way i did that these are painted they are drying in clear coat i'll show you that when that's in uh but what we're going to be doing first is this engine section so like i said there's the three main trunks we're on the engine section we've got three kind of sub trunks from there so we're gonna focus on this one here first all right ignore my painted hands but there are eight wires in this section you'll count seven there because i already removed one one is this red wire and that's to the electric choke obviously we don't have an electric choke so that's going this thick purple one goes to the starter solenoid the orange one here and these are all labeled so it's not like i memorized all this it goes to the brake switch we have this blue and black one that's going to be your oil gauge so your oil pressure because we're running a mechanical oil pressure gauge we're going to be using this this doesn't go to the pcm and then we have this green one here goes to the temp sensor now the temp sensor is part of the pcm so we're going to remove that this one is the turn switch so this we're going to pull out of this section this white one here we're going to pull out of this section and we're going to keep that one that goes under the dash because that goes in under the steering wheel and then we have these two so the pink one is the ignition positive to the coil and then the purple one is the ignition or the coil negative um which goes to the instrument panel we don't need this one i believe so we're gonna take that out but then this pink one we're also not gonna put this into the engine compartment because this is the one that we're gonna use to power the pcm all right so after deleting the wires we need that trims it down from eight to four so next we're moving on to the more power section this thicker wire is going to go to your midi fuse this next one here is your regulator power so just to the battery this black one with the white stripe is to the ac compressor or heat i don't have that in my engine compartment so that's going to come out and then the white wire is to the alternator exciter and that's controlled by the pcm so both of these are going to come out of this section this black and white one um and the white one's going to come out permanently all right we're in the headlight section now there's seven wires here you've got your high beam low beam these three real little ones are your turn signals and parking light and then these two this turquoise one as well as this gray one are the two that we're going to remove the turquoise one is for the horn i don't have a horn so i'm not worried about that and then this one here is for the cooling fan um that is once again controlled by the pcm so these two are gonna come out okay so we're in the truck and we have this fuse box here from psi conversions and this goes to the pcm so looking down at this look at this in the light here so the things we still need to wire are going to be this pcm ignition 15 amp that's that wire from the chassis harness that it goes to the the coil that's the one that we're going to use for that it's an ignition wire and then when we look down at the relays here uh the way that we're going to wire this here is into this lower relay which if we look that's the ignition relay and then in the fu in the fuel pump relay there's two things we need to do we need a constant power to the relay and what i did for that is on the back of the glove box i wired up a positive from the battery as well as a ground so that way any future relays or anything along those lines we have uh constant power and then this one here we need to go to the fuel pump so i'm going to start wiring that through while we do that we also need to route for the fuel center we also need to route back here the third brake light which i'm gonna show you what we're gonna do for that in just a second here [Music] all right we are pretty much ready to get the we're ready to get the chassis harness fuse panel in here and start running the wires through the firewall so let's get cracking on that all right so what i'm getting done next is kind of getting more set up for the chassis harness um we have the original bulkhead here i'm using the painless performance and it's the basically just the universal 21 circuit it's like 400 cheaper than the specific one that's for this and basically it's because i'm a glutton for punishment it doesn't come with all the connectors and all those things and it's a little more customizable which is great considering a lot of the circuits are going to be um redundant with some of the things that we have going for the psi engine harness so for this the bulkhead connector it doesn't come with a square bulkhead connector it's just a bundle of wire with a grommet and it comes with this universal bracket which i cut and modified so that it fits right on there so what we're going to do and the reason i have this taped off is i'm going to silicone all of this and then we are going to rivet this on there and then we'll have a nice clean opening that we can get the round grommet to work so let's get going with that [Music] once i had my game plan with my wiring harness then i could start fishing it through the firewall and start wiring up components uh initially all i'm going to get going here is the ignition as well as the wiring to the pcm and finalize that um i already had the pcm harness uh all in and ready to go except for a couple little minor things here and there um really just because i wanted to hear this thing fire up all right so now that that's through there's a ton of space in this grommet uh so that's not gonna work what i did get not thinking i need it is this kind of opens up on the bottom what this will do is it'll be like that and the wires will come out from the bottom i think i'm going to use this um i just need to punch out some holes and get this on okay while the engine side is done it's going to do the oil pressure sensor i need a spacer because i'm running it just a single wire mechanical and it doesn't fit down there so i need to get a spacer for that then you come down to the starter and that's all wired up there so i can get the exhaust back on and we're practically done in the engine bay minus the headlights and stuff all right so i just finished up wiring the ignition switch so when we look under here you can see all that in there um i did just do a test and turn the key and we have power to the fuel pump which is great i did disconnect this from the distribution block back there i want to see if it's going to crank so check the oil everything looks good there we're just going to see if the cranking works which it should let's see what we get [Music] i'm gonna prime the fuel pump like three times say when you're not hearing the fuel pump kick on [Music] exhaust well good smell gas all good oh what that's done he's so cute [Music] starting to run out of juice she's ripping his hair he's going out okay [Music] not that loud [Music] [Music] [Music] after finally starting this and hearing this thing fire up it i've been i don't say dreaming about it but i kind of have been and wanting to hear this thing and what it's going to sound like with the the long tubes and the the dual exhaust that i built um and to hear that moment you know that's that's that's why we do this right that's it was huge so i'm still kind of shaky from it just from excitement um so i was feeling really energized to really start kicking this project a little bit more in gear a little bit faster and get this thing on the road um reason there's a little bit more urgency now we're building a house i've mentioned that in the last couple of videos but we're six weeks out from moving so uh pressure's on uh it's not going to be done in six weeks but it's definitely it's got to be road worthy and i want to i want to drive it i'm not trailering it to the new house i am driving it so um maybe in the next video because i want to get this one up maybe in the next video i'll show you what the shop situation is going to look like over there it's definitely a little bit different i'm going to sacrifice just a little bit of size um overall from this shop but we're going to be more efficient we're going to make that work a little bit better so anyways before i sign off on this i want to give a huge shout out to my buddy brad uh his instagram i'll put right down here he he helped me with several wiring questions that i have i would not say by any means that i am an expert or even necessarily know exactly what i was doing with this wiring um and he was able to iron out the questions that i did have um he builds awesome he he's finishing up a 64 impala that's big block bagged it's he builds cool you need to go look at uh what he's doing give him a follow and uh you know brad if you do see this thank you for your help so um it's it's great to have resources and friends that uh are willing to chip in you know when they have a little bit more expertise than you so um yeah thanks for watching guys i will see you in the next one i have no idea what we're gonna do next but i'm actually gonna be starting it right now so see you guys later [Applause] [Music] [Applause] you

Channel: paulk_c10

Views: 88,317

Keywords: wiring harness, ls swap, stand alone, first start, cold start, black widow mufflers, race venom, long tube headers, dual exhaust, painless performance, chevy c10, 5.3, 6.0, 4.8, 6.2, 4l60e, diy, garage built, fabrication, ignition, cammed, big cam, do it yourself, beginner, learn how to, engine

Id: 4iP0HEp36c0

Length: 20min 24sec (1224 seconds)

Published: Sun Sep 06 2020