Soldering techniques

hey there it's Bruce Wayne here I'll close it off anyway oh jeez this mask it needs an exit strategy hello everyone and welcome to my livestream mind Bruce rain from bronchus creations and today I thought I might do something a little bit different to usual and I am obviously usually just doing recapping I'm just grabbing boards like this and taking caps off and putting new caps on and to be honest if I start boring people that is exactly what I'll do but what I thought I would would do today is actually spend a little bit of time just talking about some soldering techniques that I have learned mainly because when I get quite a lot of comments on some of my youtube videos with people saying you know sort of I can't get the solder to behave the way I want it to how do you get to do that and all this sort of stuff and so I thought I could take the opportunity to just sort of talk over some of the equipment that I use and some of the techniques that I use to make solder do what I want it to do so hello to everyone who has jumped onto the stream if you're a first-timer please jump on and say hello I am going to just work my way through icy house of moth is there so hello Jay I see Steve is here hello Steve goo-goo-goo clone hello Dana is there Erin is here Trina is here and I think that's all so so anyhow now that I assume everyone's getting over the shock of the the intro there with my Batman mask but Bruce Wayne Bruce Wayne so highly oh how well welcome to the stream so so anyhow I guess I'm going to just sort of go over a few little soldering techniques and I'll demonstrate a few under the microscope and all that sort of stuff I've got a new little side angle camera here while it's not a new one it's an old one but it's er I've got now 1080p coming from the side view here and I'm actually looking here at this is one of my first one of my earliest solving eyes alright so my first because one of my first soldering irons was actually one of those just all-in-one plugs straight into the mains power this was probably one of my first soldering stations I did actually have another one it was virtually the same as this and it broke and so then I bought I bought the exact same model again you know lack of choice I guess this is bought from Dick Smith which is an old electronics retailer they used to used to exist in this country but they don't they sort of don't really exist anymore yes no well yeah well I mean what's Batman gonna do these days with the whole kovetz situation just don't make a soup out of him nothing that's the main thing so anyhow this this was one of my first soldering stations and the reason the reason why I tend to recommend against these sorts of soldering stations over some others there's nothing really wrong with these good thing about is they have a temperature control which is really important when you're doing Sol during this one here has a sort of a analog temperature readout so this one's obviously got sort of feedback it's got a sort of thermostat thingy in the in the handle that tells you what the temperature is but with a lot of these hello Nate welcome to the stream with a lot of these sorts of soldering stations they all work in the same sort of way and that you have the handle here well you've got your base station with your temperature control and your power controls this one has a light to tell you when it's on and then I like to tell you when it's up to temperature that you set it for and then and then you have the heating element in this handle and then what you have is you unscrew this take that out and then we've got a little tip there and basically what happens is this is the part that gets this the heating element that gets it gets hot these can be replaced just gonna undo these and buy replacement ones where you used to be able to not for this one but a lot of them you can buy replacement heating elements so it's not a bad idea to have a spare one around and then obviously the tip goes in and that goes in to hold the tip in place now this iron has seen a lot of use yeah and it's also been stored rather poorly it just needs to be thrown away a minute it's I cannot see myself ever using it again now what I don't particularly like about these ions is that first of all the heating element is in the handle and that heat then gets transferred to the tip and then you end up losing quite a lot of heat during that process so they're not that efficient you don't get as much heat to the tip as some other forms of soldering line the other is that if you decide partway through soldering that you want to use a smaller or a larger tip you have to either wait for this to cool down which does take a long time or you have to try and unscrew this with pliers and pull this out without damaging it because often these heating elements can get a bit fragile when they're really hot so these what a lot of people you know are probably used to I mean there was once upon a time this was this is it I mean when you wanted to buy a soldering station this is the sort of configuration they were and indeed a lot of the ones that have been made these days still are but I I much prefer the what sort of general you referred to is t12 so this is my soldering station here which I can't quite I can get it out but I'll unplug it in the process so this is how Co FX 9 5:1 soldering station I have lots and lots of complaints about this but one of the things that I really do like about it is the way the tip works I mean first of all it's very small I'm managing see compared to the other on this one is more like holding a pencil whereas the other ones a lot bigger and fatter this one here is which is of course extremely grubby who really should clean that Chandler this it what what is really funny about this is like in Australia I mean particularly you pay a lot for these these aren't really a budget soldering station they're quite expensive but the a lot of this stuff I mean things like these this handle here I mean this so flimsy I mean these can just come apart really really easily it's a shame but you know replacing these hammers is not that expensive you can do that you can even put you can even buy copies this one is this handle is a genuine hack oh but you can buy you know some hack own knockoffs that will plug into these these base station so the main reason why I like this is so cuz they're lighter and but the really important thing is the fact that the tip itself is the heater so that's a t12 tip and that whole thing is the heating element and so that means they're far more efficient when it comes to heating so yeah so yeah that's that's what I you know what I really like about these particular soldering stations and of course this this is hot I mean if I touch the end of that I'll burn myself but I can hold this quite happily down here at the base of the the tip and then I can swap tips over midsole during so that's a really really important thing so I will generally recommend it if you're getting going to get a soldering iron get one with that uses t12 tips and it doesn't have to be a hack oh there is a link in the description for where there is a budget t12 soldering station and you can basically buy genuine HECO tips and put into that at t12 station so you know you get you get the best of both worlds you get the nice sort of cheap base station and you can use the quality the quality tips so that's that's kind of the first thing is the is you know the the station itself now what I really don't like about this station it's actually I should mention another thing I do like about it it's rigged up so that when you put the soldering iron into a little holder this is a little lead coming out of it and when it feels that the that the the iron is actually in the station it sends it back to the you know sort into the what do you call this thing stand it sends a little message back to the station saying the soldering iron it's not being used and then after a moment it low it powers down and just switches off and so that's really really handy if you like me and you're a bit forgetful and you sometimes forget you're halfway through soldering something you head back head out of here and and then you find that the you've left your iron on and of course this just switches itself on which is really really good from power and from a safety perspective so so that's that's one of the things I say that I like about it the things that I don't like about it I really don't like the interface of this thing here oopsie what about on I've just lost my screen here so I can't see anything so I'm hoping that I'm still streaming that I'm assuming I am I have lost my ability to see anything so I apologize bear with me just a minute while I try and figure out did I just press the power button where is the power button that's a good question this is going well isn't give me just a minute well I just hop under the desk and see if I can find out where the cable of this screen is going [Music] it was kind of an odd one because I I just pulled the cable and then this suddenly went blank he'll come back on again oh there we go okay sorry about that folks okay so I won't be doing that again in a hurry I'm not quite sure why it switched off but once I unplugged it and plugged it in again it worked again say um so okay so I'd say one of the things I really don't like about this is the interface if you're wanting to change the temperature on this thing you have to go on okay so I've got him on the temperature there if I want to change the temperature you've got a listen you put the key in or something and then it starts flashing and then you go up and down so let's just say we want to leave that there press star to move to the next number I'll make it say 440 star okay that's locked in and then that's that's set for 40 and if you don't have the key and you can't make an adjustment now I don't know someone can perhaps tell me why it is necessary to have a key to change the temperature of your soldering station are you really in a situation where you're going to give someone a soldering station and say you just sold it don't you dare change the temperature I mean it's just the most ridiculous thing in the world and then of course this whole thing of selecting the digit and then changing it up and down and there's no real apparent let's just say I want to change this to 460 I'll just go sorry about the focus guys let's just say I'll put my key in I'll go 400 I'm go do that one and I'll go up 460 actually it's makeup or silly don't know where let me do anything the reason is that that's the temperature too high for this interface no error I think just you just here prison buttons it won't actually accept it until I choose a number within its range I think for to use the highest it'll go so anyhow just monumentally stupid stuff someone in the the it was that night mentioned having the fx-888 which has the knob I mean so much more logical I like a digital readout show me what the temperature is but just having a knob to go up and down temperature is just so much more logical this is just stupidity but anyhow that's enough of my hatred of the interface of the FX 95 one apart from that and apart from the fact that it is colored to look like a kid's toy it's a good song ring station I I do very much like fun yeah that's that's that with the soldering station now and the other thing I want to talk about tips and getting heat where you want to get heat oh goody hey well welcome to the stream and okay so what looks like something easily lost but probably cost way more than the plastic is worth oh you talked about the key yeah oh yeah I mean I'm tempted just to open this thing up and make it so that the key can just be a switch at the front or something like that because it's just so stupid anyhow I digress um okay so one of the really important things with donor are you here I've already said hello to you haven't I yes I have I'm sure I have yes oh yes I'm sure I have if I haven't hello so so I have a whole series of soldering iron tips here I'm going to just bring them all that hit it with my specially home-made designed spammed holder for them made out of a piece of wood I'm just going to go in and just very quickly alter my focus here so that it is not on auto focus there we go but I'm sick of it or whatever kissing all over the place where I don't want to um yes I have I have settle oh you're good good good yeah it's it was 11 o'clock on Sunday here I can't be expected to be in full form at this time so I basically bought these I bought a knockoff soldering station a hack oh that looks like a heck oh but it's not a hacker and it's not well made as well but it still works okay and with that I got a whole series of tips and that was fantastic cause it gave me an opportunity to try lots of different ones and figure out which ones I like now most soldering irons come with a conical tip so that is one that goes to a just a fine point and you might just sort of think yourself well a really fine point if you're doing fine work that's the way to go about one of the problems is that with Sol during the three things that you need in order to get good joins having the contacts clean whatever you're trying to solder make sure it is clean having heat where you need it and having flux and the thing is that if you can't get the heat where you need it you're not going to be able to get you know do good soldering and so I could get this iron here and I could melt some solder onto it but if I then put this tip onto something I have a lot of trouble transferring the heat from the tip to what I'm soldiering that's because there's just not much surface area the surface area is a really important thing this is why I much prefer to work with this is the sort of tip that I use here it's oka singing yeah that yeah and this is a bevel it's sort of a little beveled edge I think I'm doing miletti just open the right here okay so there's a bevel tip there this is an old one but it's a bevel tip there now that flat surface there enables me to apply heat to a nice surface area so this transfers heat really really well helps me out with soldering but then at the same time because it's the bevel we have a point at the top so I can use that to get into little fine looks and crannies and stuff like that some people opt for these sorts of tips which are sort of like a wedge and then like that there is a word for it but I can't remember what it is and these have the advantage of this large flat surface area on the side which again you can use to get the heat where you need to get it but then you also have this fine point on the end so you you know you've you're you tip actually has you know double purpose you can get the heat where you want it then you've also got a very fine point if you need to get into the inter tight little lab places and then a last sort and this is one where I've seen quite a few people use these these ones here now this is basically apart from the fact that's got some hair on it this is essentially like a conical tube it's got a point oh there we go but it's bit and the reason why people like to use these bent ones is because you can actually get that bent part and lay it flat onto a service and again a transfer a lot of heat to where you want it it's all about getting the heat where you need it and then of course the other thing is I also have this kind of changes focus back I also have some quite large tips you know I've got one sort of like this which is a bevel but it's got a great big massive surface area and that's one that I would use if I'm trying to solder onto you know a great big piece of metal and I need a huge amount of heat to where I'm going so it's you know it's not just a matter of saying well you know this is the soldering iron tip that I use I will use different tips for different tasks and an inner all depends on you know sort of where the heat needs to be a lot of the time if I'm trying to week-old solder away I'll use one of these larger tips that I can get a lot of heat there too to help you know suck up the solar okay so I guess what I might do now is actually put some of this into practice because goodness me it's been enough for me talk and isn't it so I've got a logic board here a a Macintosh 2v X and this one suffered from some rather horrendous battery to leakage and what this sort of some really bad corrosion and that and so what I'm going to do with this I'm going to remove a couple of components clean up the pads underneath them and then put those components back again and we might even do some really adventurous stuff in this as well I might even look at taking the CPU off or something like that so so for the different types of ICS I use slightly different methods methods each time so I'll try a couple of different types of ICS I'll lift them off clean them up put them back on again so I'll just first thing I'm going to do is just look for something that might be like really grubby and worth removing just grab some tweezers here good old piece of solder that looks like a horsey okay so let's go here to that and we will get some focus on the screen there and I need to get some focus here as well there we go alright okay so we see a lot of exposed traces here and that's really the problem with this board I may or may not get it working in the future but at this particular time this one doesn't work I have replaced lots and lots and lots and lots and lots of components on it but there is still it's still definitely not working so this is just one of the joys of batteries got a nice big blob of solder I mean let me just get rid of that okay so let's just have a look around and we'll see if we can find something that looks particularly ugly I mean this looks particularly ugly I wouldn't consider this to be a problem but if we have a look just here you'll see all this kind of rusty stuff going on here so I'm gonna take this component off I'm gonna clean things up and going to put it back again customer came to pick up a repair did I miss anything good after the t12 was mentioned no sorry Jay I'm you know just been talking rubbish so yeah so I was just basically going over different solder tips and I'm sort of talking about the importance of transferring heat that it isn't just about having a really really fine tip it's about making sure that that tip can transfer heat on to what it is you're soldering and then what I'm going to do now is I think I'm going to you know remove cleanup and replace this chip here and this guy here now here's a PLCC chip I think that's what they're called these are ones that can be soldered directly onto the board but they can also sit in little sockets sockets around here but actually no this is a VX if it was a 2 VI there would be a socket on it but yeah so these so as so these chips have the advantage that you can either put them into another socket or you can solder them directly onto the board so first thing I'm going to do is remove it and I'm going to do that with my hot air station this is my hot air station here I can talk about that in a minute I generally regard them as an essential item if you're going to be doing sort of electronics work the you can spend a lot of money on them or you can get them for quite cheap but this is not well sorry I shouldn't say that yes this is a customer's board however it is it was one that was sent to me with someone saying can this even be fixed and I said look I can make no guarantees in the state that it's in but I can certainly try and when with all of these I mean to some extent this is this has become a little bit of a pet project I'll have a little bit of a play around with it every now and again and then try it out and see if it works oh I can get the power light to come on but it doesn't chime and if I get to the end of it my I can't fix it I'll end up just giving it back to the customer and saying look you know this is too far gone when you look at the state of some of these that's my big tweezers don't like those when you look at the state of some of these little veers here you know you can see that they're pretty heavily sort of corroded and then any one of these may have broken somewhere and so you know they aren't necessarily going where they're where they're meant to be going and you know you could spend a lifetime trying to diagnose those especially when with a board like this I don't have a schematic so I don't really have any way of knowing where a signal is supposed to go on this other than sort of you know having a working board and doing some sort of tests there but I mean that's something that you could you could lose you lose weeks on that so as much as possible what I tree with a try and deal with a board like this is search for the most obvious the most visibly obvious problems but with this one there are quite literally so many that even though I mean I have already spent Oh at least a day I'd say honest I've replaced one two three four five mmm six seven eight probably probably 10 or so chips I've taken you know I see sort of carriers I've taken off the board cleaned the pads put them back on again in the hope that that might sort it out because some of the pads were you know that the solder was completely gone it had corroded through I put it in the ultrasonic cleaner cleaned it and then when I then looked at under the microscope there were contacts that were just the sole had just been completely rotted through so I digress let's now look at removing this little I see here I've got a little heat shield in place and shield some of the components from the the heat coming off this hot air station and I've just got to work my way around here melt all of the solder so that I can get this guy off obviously would never be able to take a component like this off without a hot-air station because you can't get all of those pads hot at the same time time for the bfh that's a bfh so I'm going to tell me where to be a features are you like yes terribly late terribly terribly like no I mean really you haven't missed anything I haven't been doing anything of significance or importance or anything like that I've just been chin wagging okay so the next thing we need to do is obviously clean up these pads we've got our component off which I have just put over here let's have a little quick look at what it looks like underneath now with this one here I can see that it it pretty was pretty much was making contact on all those pins because I can see that there's melted solder on all of them but let's just clean this up and put it back anyway so first step is we need to get some flux onto here because that's going to help sort of recondition these pads what we need to do is we need to make sure that every single one of these pads looks you know like a nice clean shiny little got to call it lips sort of thing lozenge I've got this thing gets so dirty I'll just clean this up it could indeed be the issue with the sound chip so most of those old Macs have surface mount electrolytic caps around the sound chip I'm just gonna have a look at this one here and see if it does but I know certainly ones behind me do I'm not even sure with a sound chip is on this one they're usually fairly distinctive let's just go to this one here cuz it's right here this is a this is a color classic board and what what we have is a sound chip and then we have electrolytic capacitors surrounding and so many of those those early Mac's they had electrolytic capacitors I realize these are tantalum they're being replaced but I have yeah sort of electrolytic capacitors around that sound chip and what can end up happening you replace these caps for what's happened is the electrolyte has leaked in underneath that sound chip and it's made a mess of the traces pins there's you name it whatever and I did have a situation once where I had a board that looked in really good condition no sound after recapping took off the sound chip and just found all these broken traces down just down down this side here it's running down there and I just have to go and repair all those traces and once I did that magic sound came back again so yeah that can definitely be the case now let's jump across back to the microscope and let's get some of these heads clean where ever they are there now so flux talked about flux before talk kind of talked about flux again flux is designed to stop or slow oxidization or oxidation depending on which part of the world you're from in my part of the world we say oxidization because we like to throw in a few extra symbols here and there and and that is you know it's basically the effect of oxygen reacting with the metal and it creates a coating on the top of it creates a sort of an oxidized layer and this helps to stop that layer from forming and that just means that the solder can flow without getting a crust on the outside so flux is incredibly important you know it isn't just a matter of saying I'm you know it's an optional extra if you are wanting to get good joints and I can show you if I get this soldering iron here and I put it on to these pads there's solder on them so okay great this solder and I just rub this soldering iron around a little bit I mean you can see that I'm really not achieving anything here at all that solder is crusty it's messy it's I'm not cleaning those pads it's not looking any better than it looked before so I'm going to now apply some flux to this and you'll see a very very different thing happening when I what I do this is you see the way that like virtually instantaneously we ended up in a situation where we cleaned off those pads and and you know sort of they're now starting to look like they're they're accepting solder across the whole surface of the pad whereas before they were only accepting solder on that little clean section the little grubby section wouldn't take solder on so whenever I'm cleaning up these pads I always use some new solder so I've got some new solder here and flux and heat and again this is my bevel tip so I'm putting the flat side of that bevel tip down and I'm gently rubbing just doing it a circular motion here barely touching I mean I am touching but barely touching I do need more flux here once I start to see that flux you know sort of separate you know it's generally you know you end up with the flux on either side yeah it it helps if I go did I just bump that yeah if yep if you know when you start to see the flux sort of moving to the side and then just leaving a second in the middle where there's no flux it's time for more flux sorry people are messaging me at the moment okay so again just circular motion here cleaning those pads up getting new solar on them getting rid of all the black crusty stuff these I need to turn the board around I'm afraid because otherwise I'm going to melt some plastic I really don't want to do that there we go okay incidentally if you're wondering what this chip is that I'm that I have removed I'm I'm not certain but I'm pretty sure I didn't pay too much attention but I think it's a it's for for the serial port I think but I don't know okay so do you know I'm sorry about how shiny this this image is it's it's a bit smeary isn't it if these lenses are dirty let's just see if I can clean them up having them made any difference at all a little bit of alcohol okay are you testing those those three beers before putting it back well it would be a sensible thing to do and I may end up even doing that but I'll wait and see once I get them all cleaned up and want to have a closer look at how they all look so I'm now going to get some solder wick and this is the braided copper that has some flux in it and it basically draws solder to it really really important thing to having you talk in if you're going to be doing any soldering and I'm just gonna place that down and you got to be really gentle with this stuff and the reason you have to be gentle is that if you don't have enough heat in your soldering iron and you do say a little bit of this and then that is now soldered onto the board and if I give that a Yank I'm going to take a pad widow so you need to make sure that if you're moving this this week you need to keep heat on it so that it can keep moving around and I'm just using this week to soak up the all of the solder as well as doing kind of like a gentle scrape to clean up these pads and what I want to end up with at the end pads that look like they're fresh out of the factory now on an old board like this I can tell you it's not the case on a new board if you're using like a new Mac or something like that say Mac because that's what I generally work on it's gonna get some isopropyl alcohol here which thankfully I bought five liters before all of these fun and games happen because trying to get hold of isopropyl alcohol now I mean the place I'd buy this from it's a place is just only a few kilometers away from where I live there warehouse I just normally go in there so now five liters of isopropyl alcohol please and then I went on there the other day and they had none every single bit of isopropyl alcohol sold out and so thankfully I bought some before all the dramas home okay so I'm going to I just I see a question there from Leah about the temperature of my soldering on I realized this is something that I really should have covered before and I am going to cover that in a moment so look at these now I do apologize house kind of smear it looks at the moment I will I will endeavor to fix that before my next streamer there's not much I can do about it now but you can see now that these pads are all nice and shiny and cleaner that is the perfect recipe for then putting something on it once you get them looking like this it's going to take on solar beautifully and that means of putting that component back on it's going to be a lot easier when you're trying to put components or wires or whatever on to something that's dirty it's just a nightmare this solar dust does not want to go on there the solder doesn't want to here and then you just end up putting more solder on and you end up with gloves and it just looks awful so that is is just my little rant there the V is here i mean if i zoom right in I don't really think there is anything wrong with these these beers I mean although they that one yeah well though they look a little nasty I would be very surprised if those fears didn't didn't actually make it through to the other side I'm pretty sure they'd be continuity there and in terms of continuity just say along here I can see that there's no break there so I'm confident about that I don't really need to do any testing of that as I say I can if I was being super diligent I would you know test through to the other side but I'm not going to do that now because that would be even more boring than what you're watching now so okay so never got to get this component back on but before we do that I just want to answer the question about the soldering iron I use my soldering iron on the highest temperature it will go to which is four hundred and fifty degrees Celsius I'm not sure what that is in Fahrenheit but it's it is the highest now that is for a lot of people would consider that excessive and I'm not necessarily saying that's the way you should solve it because heat can be very damaging to a board in particular if the heat if the iron is on it for too long these here if we have a look at a pad like that just here that doesn't go anywhere now as I say if we were on a newer Mac you could potentially have a little wire underneath that taking it to somewhere else on the board on a Mac at this vintage I can look at that and see no trace coming from it so I know that that pin on that of that component is not used so that there is an unused pad and I'm just going to use that to demonstrate how you catch I'll do this end one it'll be easier because he's also not going anywhere if you apply a little bit of heat it's actually really easy to remove a pad like that and you see how easy that was once I applied some heat and a bit of pressure that pad just came straight off let it go here it is so you have to be really really careful with the high heat so um hello Dana hello another Dana in the in the stream here thank you for joining so yeah so when it comes to the temperature I use a very high temperature because I like to work that way but it can be very dangerous so you do need to be careful so I'm when I'm running up 453 Celsius I kind of regulate the heat by the amount of time I put the the iron on to whatever it is I'm soldiering so I make sure that I only I only have it on there for a very short period of time just to melt the sole of it this is something that's a lot easier to do when you got a microscope because you can watch the state of the solder changed from solid to liquid and you can sort of see what's happening instantly I I would really recommend for anyone who's doing soldering work okay not everyone's gonna have a microscope like this they cost a lot of money but at least go out and get yourself some of those maybe those jeweler's Gobles to put on over and have little magnifiers out the front so that you can really look at this stuff up close and you will get better results when you can see what that solder is doing so let's now have a look at the component that I took off and we'll see what condition that is in and whether we need to do anything to that now I really do like the idea of cleaning this up a little bit and the way I would generally do that first thing I'm gonna do is I'm gonna try and hold this thing secure so I've got a little little clampy things like this and I'm just going to put this hold it sort of light like this there we go which is just going to allow me to have that kind of a little bit more still than if I was just it was just sitting on the on the bench top here one I think is gonna work very well because it's Vanina then I'm gonna get some flux onto this I mean a sensible thing to do would just be to get a new component because we don't necessarily have the luxury of doing that on these really old computers a lot of these components are getting really hard to find some of them impossible to find some of them you will you know if you jump on to somewhere like Aliexpress or eBay you'll find people selling some of these old components their old stock so I've just got some solder and some flux here and I'm just running my iron over these pins and I'm just what I'm trying to do is I'm just trying to get new solder on there and push all the grit out of the way you can see there's quite a bit of grit on this here so I'm just trying to push that grit out of the way and so I'm doing a gentle rub on these pins here sorry this is bouncing around so much and then I just need to do the same on this other one just bit mangling that pin there it's no good do we need that pin do we really need that pin I need my bigger tweezers last time you know what I'm just gonna hold it hold it down with my tweezers okay that's so much easier why don't I just do this from the start okay is getting all these pins looking nice and shiny okay then I might grab a little bit of wick which is my asthma thing Wixom a thing would you ever altra sonic component2 by themselves yes absolutely I have done it so many times before I had this here for that very purpose so this is just a little piece of metal mesh I don't no idea I got that from to be honest I think it might have been out of a strainer or something like that and what I do is I just sit that on the little cage the little basket team that goes under the Optus on it can--it cleaner and I put my components on that until that stops them from falling through so yes I I have definitely ultrasonic just components on their own you know depending on the state they're in okay now let's just get some week here and wake up the reason why I'm licking up this solder is because I want these pins to sit flat flush flat on the board if there's little knobs of solder on the bottom of them they won't necessarily sit flush so just doing that lets get that okay there we go once again sorry it's bouncing all over the place it's a little bit difficult I'm just going to now get a toothbrush here's my toothbrush and some possible alcohol and give it a good old scrub keep picking up cloth every way I don't know where that came from I mean I know it was on the end of tweezers but I don't know how it got onto the end of the tweezer so much for cleaning it was clean it cleaner before us though at this limit so I need to find my big tweezers it's driving me bananas I have this big tweezers and small tweezers and the big tweezers give me the advantage that I can actually hold this component from the sides keep going at this oh my goodness okay we're getting there we're getting there okay I think we are clean enough now look this song right these um tweezers don't meet in the middle anymore hate it when that happens okay I'm just been to pin here never bend it back into shape right okay so here's our component that's been cleaned up not terribly well but it's and then we got to put this back into place now when it comes to getting the orientation for these this particular component of I said which is a PLC it's like plastic leaded chip carrier or something like that and all of these have this little indentation in there you can see an indentation there that refers to pin one that's like pin 1 and then 2 3 4 I think I'm going the right way around going around in what is it that's counterclockwise I'm pretty sure that's the way around it goes one two three four five and then all the way around so that there is the pin1 indicator and that there which is a dot on the board that you show me where pin one needs to be but then you've also got the fact that this has got a square edge and a square edge and then a square edge and then a little beveled edge here then you can see there's a beveled edge on the screen printing as well so I've actually got two different ways of identifying the way around that this particular chip goes all right so now we need to get this this is still got fluff all over no it's going to solder on okay so now we need to solder this on and what I do with these is I apply a nice liberal amount of flux to my newly cleaned pads and then I drop this down in the correct position and I just do this I basically have to just I'm looking to try and get it right in the top left-hand corner and right in the bottom right-hand corner because once you start soldering this down if you know you you've off a bit you're gonna be off on a whole bunch of pins so you need to try and get this as straight as possible now the next thing I'd do is tack it onto the board and by that it's like the same as if you are doing tacking with welding I just attached one single pin and it doesn't really matter which one it is but it's got to be one sort of in the corner so I've got this here and I'm gonna tack this one here okay so that is now attached by one pin just there it's one single pin attached in the corner then I am going to tap a pin on the other corner so I'm gonna spin them around ouch I'm gonna shove a pair of tweezers under my finger now because that's always fun okay so that's my first tact one is these they're and then I'm gonna attack another one down at this in doesn't begin doesn't matter which one but I just want to attack okay so now I've got this reasonably secure by using two sort of two pins soldered at either ends of the component so he's not really going anywhere now he's in a pretty secure state so the next thing to do is to pick one of the sides that I haven't tacked up tacked yet and I haven't tact this side here and I have intact this side here and then on one of those sides we then just do all of the pins and I'm going to do that with a method referred to as drag soldiering it's something which is often criticized people say you shouldn't drag solder in my opinion when you're doing these PLCC chips it works really really well I've got the bevel of my iron I've got the flat part facing downwards and then I'm tucking it into the gap here so I'm going to push this into this gap hold the top this with some tweezers and I'm just going to run this across like that then you can just see these little kind of like buttresses forming as the solder attaches to the bottom of the pin and then onto the pad and use a little bit more solder here one of the reasons why people I think are against drag soldiering is that first of all if you're not if you haven't got a lot of good quality flux on there you can end up creating bridges you can end up joining you know sort of two pins together with a little blob of solder that goes across and the other is of course that you can sort of damage pins damaged pads depending on the type of chip you are using and I'll mention that they'll show you an example of that in a minute okay so we've got one side done I'm gonna now do the other side now of course I've got no had here because I ripped him off aggressively it's gonna grab a little bit more solder on to the tip of my soldering on here and just gonna keep running that across till I'm content than I've got good joins on all these pins yeah J said drag solving rules at the end of the day if you are when you when you've done a bit of soldering drag soldering is it's just one of the tools did you have you don't necessarily drag solder everything but there are times when you're working in drag soldering is just the way to go okay we've got this again shoving it in here drag soldering it across making sure I'm getting heat on the pads heat on the pins and then the solder just likes to join on and then one more one at the top here kind of need a bit more solder as you can see when I'm putting this the solder soldering on doesn't hang around in any one location for a very long time and that's why I sort of mean by when I was saying that I use a very high temperature but then I regulate their temperature by the amount of time that I spend with the soldering liner in a particular location so you know I just knew the solving around iron around quite quickly it melts very quickly and then I can just sort of you know run it across and then they go and then it cools and solidifies so this has now been put back in place now what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna grab my grab my microscope and I'm going to hold it in a way where I can look at this at an angle so let's see if I can get this up high enough okay that's alright I mean it's such a smeary picture I do apologize I got it get that sorted out but here we can see that we've got the sole are going from the pad up to the pin and not joining between the two of them at all so there's no bridges created here but each of those pins have been soldered to the pan and so that one is in place so doesn't it need the pad back that you removed no it doesn't cause it's a it's a not used one so I'm just going to where are we where are we where are we I mean it's not gonna fall off or anything it's held on with enough components there's not which one was it oh there it is so let's look at that from this angle and there we are so that pad wasn't going anywhere there were no traces coming off it so that pin doesn't actually need to be attached to anything so that is it there it's held on with those forward and that last one is just floating off in a space so so no need to actually repair that one that's why I ripped it off with such impunity so okay so they're all they're all connected up I mean there may not be the prettiest joints in the world but as I say it's a pretty grubby old component but that would that would be enough to you know sort of for it to up to work assuming of course this computer did work but it doesn't let's get rid of this old pad here that reminder of my aggressive nature okay so the next thing I'm going to do is I'm gonna pretty much just do the same thing we're gonna do it with this component here again we've got some pretty ugly trace going now they've even done a trace repair here from there to there because this was an absolute dog's breakfast this trace here going through to that video and I mean look at this one look look at that shocker let me see if I can zoom in a bit yeah well very bit of corrosion going on there nasty okay um okay Groody I can tell you what you missed you missed soldering okay so what I'm gonna do now is I'm going to just quit this little fellow off cool hwhip I'll put this off and you know again clean up the pads and then I'm going to put this on but again the process is largely the same as as what I did with that that component there these are nice big thick pins so drag soldering work again let me tell you where drag soldering I would have to look at it a little bit differently something like this or even let's go to here's the six eight oh three Oh CPU and when you look at these pins you see how thin they are and how close together they are if I was to drag solder along here I would really run the risk of bending these pins so I might still drag solder very very gently but I wouldn't necessarily recommend drag soldering for something with such fine pins there but if we're talking about these sort of components that have nice big thick pins sticking out the side on all the components on an old computer like this then yet dropped drag soldering is fine alright so this one here I think might be a little bit more interesting because I suspect we might see some damage on the on the pads when we lift it off but we're gonna remove it I'm just looking to see yeah okay so that there is an indicator of pin one right there but I don't see any other there's the dot yeah I just wanted to make sure that when I remove this I've got some indicator to show where it goes back on okay so now I didn't do this last time I had some flux before removing it but it's never a bad idea particularly with these old ones it will often help that solder melt and make it a little bit easier to remove the component I better use a heat shield here because I'm right next to some plastic I will probably wreck my my tres repair while I'm doing this but that's that so once again to supplying heat with my hot air stationed around all the pins I'm just going to keep it moving moving in a circular motion around getting all these pins and I have some hot and I've got my tweezers here but I'm just gonna be nudging it gently and when I feel it start to move then I can lift it up a little tip for anyone who is using a hot-air station obviously one of the real risks whenever you're doing soldering is burning yourself because there's so much body heat and you know I burn myself all the time it just happens it's just part of it so he's getting ready to come off now where you can sometimes get a little bit tricked lulled into false sense of purity you're watching out for the heat coming out of the hot air station you're watching out for the heat and the soldering iron and then you do something like I did now and the I promise you the ends of these tweezers will now be blazingly hot and you've kind of forget you put all of the soldering iron in the hot air station away and you think oh that's all the hot stuff out of the way and then you sort of touch your finger on the end of your hot toys and so just be aware that you know lots of things get hot when you're soldering so you just have to be careful all the time I also want to just quickly mention the whole situation with solder itself and fumes and fume extractors and all that sort of stuff I'm in the process at the moment I'm going to be building myself my own little homemade fume extractor here I have a little cheapy type one here with a little carbon filter in it then I do that much better better than nothing and I also have a fan here over my left shoulder which is sort of blowing air blowing air across the the desk to help sort of get rid of those fumes now I use leaded solder have always used leaded solder I prefer using leaded solder it melts at a lower temperature than unlettered solder it's a lot easier to work with and so I we generally recommend for anyone in particular if you're sort of starting out it's a lot easier to work with leaded solder than unleaded solvers so you know that's that would just be my recommendation go with leaded solder what you do have to do it you have to be obviously cautious of the fact that we are dealing with lead which is poisonous the fumes have come up are not lead fumes when you see the smoke coming up from the soldering iron what's burning is the flux now that's still bad for you don't want to be breathing that in but it is not actually lead fumes the lead actually is going to get transferred to your skin or to your eyes and mouth if you then touch your eyes a mouth and you've got LED on your hands so you should be wearing gloves exactly like I'm not and you should of course wash your hands thoroughly after working with solar and you shouldn't be touching your face if you've got you know got lead on you so that's just you know with that's just sort of a precautionary thing when you work and we solder but I will always recommend leaded solder over lead-free solar so okay so now that we have just seen that I'm absolutely and totally flaunting safety stuff here by not using gloves I do have gloves and I probably should wear them today I might decide to put them on maybe okay so same as with the other one we've got these really ugly looking pads here we need to make them look nicer and we're going to be doing that with flux with heat and with new solder so gonna get some new solder here we're gonna get the soldering iron we're going to do some gentle rubbing around here and as you can see when I do this a lot of the what do you call that the the mask is coming off the these traces here and that's because there's a lot of trace fraud going on a lot of heavy corrosion and so that mask is just coming straight off but we are getting rid of the black stuff here these are starting to look a little bit better you if they are out of focus yeah what let me tell you what this is the Egret chip Egret okay so that's the one with the no labels on it it probably did have a label on it but this board has been through the ultrasonic cleaner already and sometimes the ultrasonic cleaner just takes takes the labeling off off chips and then you can't see what they are anymore that's always handy to have another board around just still going here these are all starting to organize you can see that we had this kind of nice you know where I always want to use this lozenge you know like a like a capsule they have this nice little capsule shape about them when that once they've been cleaned up and then we get our solder wick once again and we soak up some of they sell that souca souca souca whoops there goes for trace repair [Music] okay still going still going still going cleaning up here okay now let's get some ice Oh alcohol under this clean it up and then we're gonna inspect it a little bit closer and just see what these traces look like remember at any stage if anyone wants to fire off any questions I'm always happy to answer them at the same time if anyone wants to see anything specific please do ask I'm always happy to demonstrate anything if someone wants to see a particular process or something like that if you're bored out of your skull and you'd rather I did something completely different hey suggest something how am i okay yeah we can see that apart from how smeary it looks here we can see that this is what the Google throws me in grip handles startup and p.m. stuff okay so clearly this board will will work after this well I I hope that this will actually make a difference we will see I mean you know this is a pretty ugly part of the board here as you can see there's I've already done a trace repair in this area which I'll need to do again let me just get rid of some of this stuff here that's caked on the fluff caked on there right so let's have a look here at some of the areas that I think are of concern so I'm just going to twist this board around the boards are not very stable on the table so it's gonna remove this a bit there we go looking at it now vertically so just working our way along these here which flux am I using I am using mtech NC let's get the old siding & tich NC $5.99 V 2 TF I bite in there 30cc syringe like this I buy there are links in the description for where you can buy this you can also buy it in 10 cc if you want something that's gonna last you know you may not need as much as this this is one that is specifically designed for working with leaded solder and it is a no clean gel flux and these are typically used for things like BGA rework or just ball grid array chip rework and these are this is me this is obviously this one is reaching end of life that's what's so grubby I have a rarity here I have a nice new clean one here or ready to go for when this one runs out and and yet it's an incredibly important component I I have used other you know sort of no clean Joel fluxes and they're all fairly good but I do like this one I find that this one hangs around you know because some of them they just burn away too quickly some of them leave lots of really ugly black stuff behind you know some of them stink really stink I mean these don't smell that bad I mean I know we're not supposed to be sniffing this I'm not actually talking about you know I hate standing here and inhaling it but they don't smell as bad as some of the other ones so I you know I do like this one you know it's it's it's good good flux to use but what I would say you don't want to be using you don't want to be using an old fashioned resin type rosin rosin type flux like this this is one that I bought from my local electronics store as a demonstration was what we often like to refer to as rotting meat flux so this is the stuff here that I would generally say don't use that it's fine if you're soldering some wires together or doing a little bit of household stuff but this is not electronics work and some are for any good what about those flux pins flux pins yeah yeah they're okay I have to say look this is a J car comic no I do intend actually writing them a little one day J car for those who are non-australian Joker is a an outlet of electronic stores here in Australia I actually have one within walking distance from my house which is very handy because that's where I buy things like my solder wick which I go through quite a lot of and the the Jake I have this sort of flux they have flux pins they've got I think another type of flux but I have never really found the flux that J cars sell that I like i buy fluxes from other places from you know places like RS Components or met Tronics if you're looking for Australian providers you can get better fluxes like no clean gel fluxes so yes a flux pen I think is better than say using something like this but for this sort of work for electronics I really recommend going with a no clean gel flux so yeah so Dana has said some are fogging and we can't see what you're doing yeah I know I I'm not quite sure why this microscope is showing a really strong for me picture at the moment I think I would have pulled it apart and cleaned it beforehand if I realized but the process of pulling this apart and cleaning it is quite an involved one so there's not really that much I can do about it at this time can you show how to tune a carb on a 440 6 pack well no well yeah I can certainly I can I can explain how to get things like the the mixture right and stuff like that but yeah I mean in terms of all car be tuned up necessarily and and actually I've got a v8 not a 6-pack of update so yeah okay oh you mean the flux microscope is good good I'm pleased to hear that yes oh yes you were you meant that this is this is blurry and you couldn't see yep okay that's all good all right so now I have I have gone off on a tangent here so I'm going to just quickly jump back to this microscope and we'll have a look at this what I am going to be looking for here is to see whether there are any breaks in here now of course I'm holding this one here because you know I want this is gonna be like a pair tomorrow and it's gonna be like there's a break in front of you right there look at it and if you're referring to this a little black line down there I would say that's probably a 50/50 when when these traces are in place at this point where the sort of trace meets the pad there's often a little dip in there and that dip can dip can sometimes break there it is a good place to check but often that dip is there and there's still that's still good continuity so I'm gonna test that now with my little machine that goes bit I'll put that nice and close to the microphone so you can hear a bit very important thing to have if you are going to be doing any sort of soldering is a digital multimeter they're not particularly expensive to buy this one is because it's a bloody fluke and fluke there make incredibly good quality stuff they're ridiculously expensive so fluke I think you guys are awesome give me free stuff so this but you can buy really really good quality cheap digital multimeters if you buy one most important thing to do is get one that is auto ranging because if you're in a situation like when we were helping one of our fellow makers use his digital multimeter the other day and he was like what said who I put it on and one of the problems with the ones where you have to set the range is if you're testing a battery you've got to then sort of click it over to the correct setting for that voltage of battery whereas an auto ranging line it will just you just put it on bolt and then you just test and it tells you what how many volts there are so make sure if you go to buy one get one that's Auto ranging but that's enough of that all right so let's go in and check and see what happens so if I'm gonna put one little tip there one here we're good so even though that looks like it's a great big break in there we do still actually have continuity so let's keep working our way around looking too bad they're disappointing isn't it I mean you look something like that you think oh that's gotta be bragging but you know it wasn't let's just try this one here okay well nothing he looks like it doesn't work so this I you know I confess I'm a little bit disappointed I was really hoping there'd be one that wasn't working there but the other thing also have to keep in mind is the fact that when I go through that cleaning process and I you know sort of and I retain all of that copper I put a layer of solder over the top it can often end up repairing a broken trace somewhere so you know what I need to do is I'm about to put this component back and one of the big issues I have here is our picture there's some the traces under here that lot Wow well Wow Wow well I'll just pretend I haven't seen them okay so what I'm gonna do is grab it anything is possible with this one Steve I'll be honest this this computer I really don't think I'm ever going to get it working so I'm just gonna grab some wick here and I've got some solder that I put on it and I'm just doing gentle circular motion on these on these traces and I'm deliberately scraping off the the u-thor sort of a solder mask that green coating exposing the copper and then coating it with sauna or sutter depending and the reason why I'm doing that is because I am basically applying some protection to it so that it doesn't it doesn't corrode and rust in the future if I just left exposed copper like I had there before move overlay if I just left exposed copper it would it would corrode and rot through and look awful I mean it's a precaution I really probably don't need to take because I think this computer is shot but I am still doing it anyway because you know proper job and everything right times a new component agon wonder if you could hack the flute to go wild when continuity is established how good with that thing I would love a wild leap multimeter but I don't hey I don't like the chances certainly beyond my electronics capability right so now let's get this this component stuck to the table this is the one that I've lifted off let's just have a look at it and see how it looks and then they got a bit of good maybe get that doesn't look too bad I'm just going to hit that with some focus and hit back with a little bit of weak I reckon like a quick quick quick once again I just want the surface of these to be flush so that when I put it down on the board [Music] that all the scanned over there scan might actually yeah one of the things that I do sometimes if I'm trying to clean up these pins what I'll do is I'll put it like this I do apologize this whole chip doesn't fit in the in the full view here I get some flux like this and then I get some solder and I put some onto the line like that nice big glob I grab some tweezers to hold this still and I just rub back and forwards here with flux new solo and heat a little smoking away and I'm just getting rid of as much that old crusty corrosion on these pins burning my nice table too and then I'm gonna get my week we get a whack look at that look at those lovely shiny pins now okay I have to log off but I'll catch the rest of the stream later thanks for all the useful info you're welcome thank you for watching I do appreciate you hanging around and I do realize that this ears can be extremely boring and that's one of the reasons why I am happy to take requests and answer questions do the same on this side that I did before well guess magic of flux and new solder and a little bit of rubbing did this thing looking good yes sir yes actually how many viewers do I have I haven't even looked 14 concurrent viewers hello 14 of you thank you for watching I do appreciate you hanging on and sticking with me while I fiddle around with the soldering iron and the components and stuff okay so this is now a lot cleaner I can get a toothbrush here give it a bit of a scrub it up dub and once again these these pins will now be a lot happier to take solder on because I've cleaned them up got rid of a lot of that nasty corrosion all the build-up and scums on the outside so they'll be in a much better position for sticking onto the under the board here all right so there is our have a focus there we go good that's good all right so we know this needs to go on with the dot whoops it's the way there's a dot up there up there and there's au down there so first thing we're gonna do is smother it in flux what is that like insect here in tech wing or something so on the downsides to having your workshop in a shed okay then we'll get our component I get my big tweezers what is a classic Mac accessory that you always dread repairing Mac accessory you exit evil without any wax would look cool Mac accessory that I always dread appearing accessory I don't know I'm repaired many Mac accessories I'm only just prepare the Mac's themselves how about you Steve what's what's a Mac accessory you dread repairing okay so I'm doing this in the same way that I did with that are PLCC chip I'm basically just going to try to position this as best as I can so I'm lining it up at one end and the other and then I'm going to once again do my little tack at one end so this is board's kind of hanging off the edge of the desk key which is why the focus keeps going out so I'm gonna get a little bit of solar onto the end of my soldering iron tip and I'm going to hold this in position am I going to do one Pig that's not that just the one I'm gonna flip it over anything with capstat good pop yes we love watching it when the caps pop it's so entertaining okay so there's that and then I'll take that one okay so we've got one tack at that end got one tack Bend and then this component is held in position for us to do our drags hole during once again so drag drag drag drag drag what a drag okay I'm running out of solder here I need a little bit more there we go okay beautiful beautiful just beautiful I mean melting past the spinning around don't wanna melt plastic there we go there we go so once again drag soldered having ended up with any bridges it would be a different story if I didn't have any flux and I'll just cut it demonstrate that right there I'm going to get some isopropyl alcohol and gonna clean away some of this flux and I'm gonna show you what happens when you try and drag solder without a good flux that trace looks nasty the one on new nine or parallel to it [Music] gonna believe some of the nicer Pro back all the way okay right u9 you know and you know and you nine you know you know I I mean it all looks nasty but ya know I need to revert back to the nude I okay where are we you know and you know and you know you see you 14 you 15 I know that's be close you will Levin can't find it the big chip you were just working on that's you 9 is it okay they didn't seen oh it is to the trace looks nasty the one on you nan or parallel look okay let's have a look parallel you talking about this trace running along here you'll serve bowls or Clara nasty and I actually did do a trace repair in this which fell apart so I'm going to re-establish that tracer here this is all bendy now it was beautiful and straight before and I can I survive can only live with that can I live with a bendy trace repair instead of a nice flush straight there we go oh I just got that in camera okay so Anthony Aegis thank you for joining Dayna Siberia sent me he sent you here okay well I hate to tell you this but we've been going for a while so someone will have to fill you in on the plot otherwise you won't be able to follow it I'm just joking of course right okay so that's on and NSA what I just wanted to do there's still a bit of flux in there so it may not necessarily this demonstration may not work the way I wanted but what I wanted to show is if I am going to be doing some drag solder in here now there's still flux in there you can see it happening to some extent but when if you're not if you're not using flux and you're doing a bit of drag soldering you are more likely to end up with you can see it actually just happening here where that's got a little point to it it's not this little smooth it's not a smooth join you're more likely to end up with a bridge between the components I'm going to add some more solder in here so if I can force a bridge there we go got a nice big bridge there now there's too much solder on there I could obviously grab some wick and I can remove that but what I want to show is that if I then doused this liberally in flux when I then move that around that bridge goes and that's because that solder becomes much more fluid with the flux and so it then is more likely to just hold together in little little a little glob rather than being stretched out and spread across and you know ending up creating an accidental bridge so that's sort of demonstrating how important flux is when you're doing this sort of stuff so I have removed a couple of components I have cleaned the pads underneath them and put them back on and that was sort of that was pretty much what I wanted to demonstrate I can of course show some other stuff if people - or if someone wants to ask any questions about equipment or about tools or you know anything like that please do so otherwise I'll probably consider sort of just wrapping things up being going for a little while now and it was never really meant to be a super long stream it was just the plan was to do something a little bit different this time around rather than just doing yet another recap which I will be doing anyway then can you solder a component with the hot air gun absolutely so that's another way of basically doing and depending on the sort of component you would you might want to actually do that and what I'll do is I'll actually I'm going to solder a component using the hot air station and let me just see if I can find one that kind of needs to be done well well look at that bridge got that little piece of solder in there yeah okay so here's one that could potentially be redone because he's looking pretty ugly there is just no shortage of ugly ICS on this board basically it's happened so first thing I'm gonna do is take him off and go through the same process I'll do this as quickly as I can because I've already shown this a couple times that could be a little bit on the dolls eye but let's just apply something here um I'm getting really really game here I'm doing this without putting a heat shield next to some plastic so I'm watching that plastic like at all to see whether I'm melting it so okay you're enjoying doing I mean he goes yeah we okay that's the component off there so we're just going to go through the same process we went to before we're going to be adding some flux and piece the middle what do you reckon come on flux there we go right and then going to get some solder here and clean up these pads as we have done before we add flux heat a new solder and some gentle very gentle rubbing here of these pads being gentle because as I demonstrated before with a little bit of heat a little bit too much pressure you can just tear these pads right off and that is not what we want to do so just cleaning these up until they don't look horrendous anymore all right now we get some wick wickety-wack some solder wick some solder John lick some bobby jäger wick there we go there's a little bit of an esoteric reference okay and then just soaking that up and then at the same time also doing a gentle rubbing motion I'm coating all of this old crusty copper a rotted copper with a bit of a bit of solder tinning it making sure it's protected so don't line oxidize okay so that part is pretty much the same as what we're doing before now going to clean it weird q-tip and some isopropyl alcohol cleaning cleaning and we're gonna have to do the same at the component I'm just doing this all in fast-forward at the moment because I have done this before and so I don't want to just sort of be even more boy okay here we are here's the component this one here is pretty crusty as well so I'm going to do the same trick that I did last time and then I put a whole stack of flux along here now I have my work bench in here is quite deliberate I bought a table nice laminated table and then I bought some plywood and I cut the plywood to the same size as the bench and stuck it on top and so I don't care about burning this at all when this gets wrecked completely and totally burned to beyond being able to be used I'm going to lift off the plywood from the top and put a new cut in new one down so I'm just sort of mentioning that because as you can see when I just hold this component to the table and I burn the bejesus out of the table that's just because I don't really care about that it was designed to be burned Alex hey Bruce can you show me how you might repair a broken leg on an IC like the one you re working now got a few tiny so yes I can in fact how about I do that how about I bust one of the legs off this I do actually have one actually here's one here's what I prepared earlier I think it might not be here too might be up in the up at the main house so alright so let me just quickly clean this up and then we can sort of do we can kill two birds with one stone I will repair a leg just using some solder some flux some heat to just clean these pins up okay spin them around and do the same here need more solar now the process that I'm going to show with repairing the leg works with plastic IC carriers like this one it doesn't work so well with the ones that are made out of that kind of ferrite sort of material I'm not sure exactly what the material is that some of the really old kind of ROM chips on these computers were made out of this it's it's it's it's really hard sort of metallic substance and you just you can't cut it I mean if you try and cut it you'll just blood on anything you try and cut it with so just cleaning up I look at me ibid some pins getting carried away [Music] better be a bit these pins I was just mistreating them terribly so I'm gonna try and Bend some of these back at the end of the day as long as I can get them look soldered onto the board I'm happy nd bindi bindi bindi Simon here now which one which one am I gonna wreck to make it easy for myself I might just bend one off the end okay do you do what are you doing grace why are you doing this Oh Sarah vandalism alright let's just clean this up a bit it's got a hold with some tweezers while I give it a bit of a scrub try and keep it in the microscope okay so I'm going to demonstrate two things here the first thing I'm gonna demonstrate is I'm going to demonstrate putting this component on [Music] use just using the hot air station and then I'm going to demonstrate re-establishing that busted pin so let's start with the hot air part now where I what I did before if I could just find out where this came from yeah what I did before when I was putting those other components on here's I had these pads perfectly clean put the component on held it in place tacked a couple of pins and then sold at the restaurant it's a way I like to do these particular components on newer computers with a smaller component you wouldn't necessarily do it that way but this one this is the way I like to do it but what you can also do let me just get some flux on here is you can solder these on using hot air and the way you would do that is the first thing you do is you get some solder on all these pads so got some flux there get some solder do a little bit of this yeah it's a little bit difficult with this because um there's all these traces are exposed so there's sucking up all the solder okay so once again this is what our a 30 before is these all looking like little capsules little lozenges like that so we're basically now got sold a little bit of solder on all of these pads now we are going to apply some more flux flux is a big deal and then we're going to try and find the component I'm so good at leaving the planetarium sound of a toothbrush so we need to find out where it goes that way and if you're wondering how I know it goes that way there are two ways I can tell first of all we've got this little silk-screened curve here which lines up with this little curve here and then we've also got a dot here to show pin1 and we've got a dot here to show pin1 so okay so what we're going to do now then we're gonna place this component pretty much where we want it to sit and we're going to use the hot air station now what I would usually do with this is I drop the hot air station down a little bit in in the amount of air close out and turn up the temperature a little bit I haven't set most of the time on 120 air pressure I don't know what that 120 refers to I'm not sure what the units are but on this particular hot air station which is a quick 861 DW 120 is the most Derrick can blow out it's as fast as it can go and then I have it set on 400 degrees Celsius well that's nice and long I have another setting that I have set up on this one for 425 degrees Celsius but only 55 that's the amount of air is blowing out so it's going a lot less air because when you're putting these components on if you're blowing it too much here you can end up just literally blowing the component off the board so I am going to now apply some heat to this and I'm going to melt all of these little lozenges that I was talking about before and [Music] there we go look having trouble getting it exactly straight let's come let that cool a little bit and then I'm going to apply some pressure from the top and heat it again so I make sure that I've got this nice and flush on the board I do apologize if you can't see all of this that is just one of the downsides with this microscope this microscope doesn't have enough field of view to show you everything but there we basically had that soldered on without doing any of that drag soldering what we just did was we put the solder on the pads then just heat the whole thing and then just melt it on and it works just as well I mean they're all of those pins are now soldered on so that's fine now if you're working with a smaller component let's just say I probably need to do it on the other side let's say if we were dealing with a little tiny something like a capacitor or something like that let's say we were going to replace him so I'm going to take him off take this guy here and that red stuff that you can see there that is component adhesive excuse me and that's because of the way these boards are manufactured they they stick all of the components in place first and then they run the board through sold the bath and and then the the solder just sticks to the metal parts so I'm just going to clean up these pads here and I want to show you if we're just dealing with a little component like that a little bit different to how we would solder on that component that I just did okay okay cleaning the pads always start with clean pads you just always end up with a better result if you start with clean pads so let's just put some flux on there and get some nice big glob of solder on here now when I get this component which let's hope I haven't lost here it is when I get this component once again making sure I've got plenty of flux on their book wrong view sorry I keep bumping them now sorry I'm gonna get this component I'm gonna pour will pop it on there and what I need to do is I need to hold this component so it doesn't blow away like that I need to apply heat to make that solder melt and then place that on right okay now that's all but here's the really cool thing about wearing using hot air for little components like this if I apply a little bit of flux on there and I apply some heat you will actually see usually its components a bit big you will usually see the component actually just there a bit did you see it there just settled into place it's actually got it pulled itself into place there and it didn't actually pull itself what did it was the surface tension of the solder the sole have just created a little blob and that when it created them that shape it just pulled the component into place and so that way that's a way you know you get these components sitting lovely and flush without you having to desperately try and get them in position you solder them on you you know sort of you get it so that the solder is holding the component in position and then you you know apply the hot air and then that surface tension just pulls that component into line and so that yeah as long as you don't have too much air to blow the component away that sort of just that gets that component where you want it to be so that's how you do it if you're dealing with a small component like that there's position it you know once it gets held into place and again you can see where the microscope comes in handy when you're doing this sort of stuff because I can actually see the moment the solder becomes molten versus when it is so I could I just saw it then that bag just went mom take it away and I miss going solid but anyhow the point is that the the microscope really does help when you're doing that sort of that very small component rework cycle so I have still got something that I need to do here which I said I was going to do and I am going to fix up my busted pin that I have here as we can see I've got no pin there now what we need to do is we need to expose enough pin for us to solder something to it and at the moment I don't really have enough I could solder something on to that most probably but it would it would sort of very likely break away quite easily it's not really enough there now what's kind of good is that a lot of these plastic chip carriers this pin goes quite a long way into that case and so you it's just a matter of sort of exposing some more stuff to solder on to now there are a couple as you do it you can use a dremel with a little cutting tool on it you can you I've done it sometimes just with a scalpel blade I'm gonna grab the scalpel blade now and just see how I go with this and I don't want it to take too long so if I start Naurang into this and it looks like I'm going to be here for a week trying to get the thing exposed I will I might just then go and grab the dremel I've only got quite large cutting tools my general so that concerns me but basically what we're wanting to do is we wanting to scrape away this plastic because this is just plastic it's just a coating on the outside I know the focus on two crash hot birds because they keep moving I'm just gonna keep scraping scraping and I'm just scraping away the plastic of this this chip carrier or package keep scraping scraping and I mean look you can keep going quite a long way in the distance and they'll still be pinned there but you just got to decide how far you want to go in you can see I've exposed quite a bit more of that pin when it was there before but let's keep going we're not quite at the watching paint dry stage yet but we're getting close yeah what did you do today hi watch this guy scrape some better thing there's awesome is some of the best plastic scribing I've ever seen all right do we consider that enough to solder something on to let's give it a whirl shall we so now we need some wire to to use for this joint and what I would generally do with this is okay just clean that up so I'm using this one now this is a mammal dwyer you don't need to use enameled wire it's just because it's the wire that I have and and you know when you apply some heat to it you actually melt the enamel off okay so right now what I'm going to want to do with this is I want to get a nice solid whoopsie I wanna get a nice solid kind of sort of join I want this to be on the board nice and solidly first so I'm gonna bend this a bit and I'm going to just solder this onto that pad and that's going to give me my initial strength and connection there so get some solder onto my soldering iron and get my wire and just going to I'm not just apply heat over here for it to start off with just to melt that coating there we go well okay all right they like to crash up but it's there I really should be doing this with tweezers I'm doing then the great big fat ends it'll do for now I'm gonna do is I will shift shuffle it around a little bit but what I'm gonna do is gonna cut off the excess there I might even trim a little bit off here as well and then I will get it into a better position using some tweezers so let's cut that off there goodbye far thee well and then okay we go okay so that we now have sold it onto the pad there and then we need to get this sold it on to that little nub and so I'm just going to this is probably a little bit too long I would ideally like this to be bent around we have to be really careful here because I don't want to tear this pad off so I need to this I mean this why I might even be a little bit sick I'd like to right so just kind of Bend this then this and bend it good this wire really is too long okay now this is going to be really difficult because I want to solder this on without actually [Music] damaging the without actually breaking the connection this at the other end and it's because it's gonna be very easy for me to heat this all the way through till it actually melts at the other end okay here we go that coating is coming off and I've now got solder on there so it's gonna push that down and that has actually sold it on there I'm not sure how strong it would be but it has actually done it all right so let me just yeah that's connected you can zoom in a little bit here and that has sold up onto that little nub I can just give it a push and you can see that it is held on at this side so that has basically worked it is not by any stretch stretch my prettiest work that is if anything probably one of my worst but you know I mean oh well it has worked but it's just not not very good the worst the worst part possibly you slightly Tooting why the that the the good thing about that that thicker wire is that it has some rigidity so it sort of it holds up but I really have I didn't cut off enough of it when I did it so I've got this kind of huge curl going on here let me see if I can just move this microscope out so that we can look at this from a different angle because it might make a little bit more sense what I've done here if we look at it slide on there we go can you see that looks like a little seahorse you can see sort of soldered onto the pad at the bottom then he coming around and curling it sitting onto that that little nub on there now I've actually done this you did get better at it as your practice I did this on a chip and I had to do about probably eight of them along one side of the large large I see big square one and it it worked I mean it's sort of after doing an object is in that way these things getting work but it did it did work and obviously when you finish something like this you need to coat it you need to protect it because otherwise you know this gets a can or twists it or something like that that could come apart and that's where we use something like you the solder mask or a conformal coating that we put on afterwards to clean it up this of course would need to go in an ultrasonic cleaner before I did that if I tried to stick any sort of coating on this now I'm likely to just start it wouldn't stick because there's all that flux in place there but once this is cleaned with an ultrasonic cleaner I would then coat that liberally in a it's a UV solder mask or a conformal conformal coating conformal coating is basically it's a coating that conforms to the surface so this is all right this is conformal coating here it is it's like this clear gooey sort of viscous stuff and then you just paint it on it just sort of settles out of the surface and then it takes about I think about 24 hours to dry something like that whereas the UV solder mask is something that drives a lot quicker because you can dry it with UV light so you can either dry it out in the sunlight or you can dry it with the e UV globe and that's the added advantage of that is you can get something ready to go a lot quicker so for instance if I'm doing a recap and I need to do some you know some cleaning up in and you know maybe cover a few exposed traces or something like that I would use a I would use UV solder mask because then I can just sit it under a globe for 15-20 minutes something like that and then I'm ready to go again so um so anyhow look I think I think I've probably covered all that I'd really wanted to cover in this video so I'll probably wrap things up now unless people have any other questions or requests for sort of demonstrating something you know more than happy to oblige but I think that's probably you know where where am I sitting at the moment I'm sitting at 15 viewers so thank you to those 15 people who have have stuck with me for all this time and I've got a beard here and please you know if you haven't subscribed please subscribe if you haven't pressed the like button please press press press the like button and you know what if you hated it feel free to press the dislike as well so thank you Judy I appreciate that I felt like it sort of dragged a little bit there for for a while but you know I mean I hope that there was enough in it to have been of value to someone out there that might have been happy to to see a couple of those little processes so um okay no worries so and look if you have any further quick for you sort of after watching this think yourself you know what I really would have liked to have seen this or that or the other dropping into the comment section because you know I I do intend to do a couple of more couple more of these in the future I want to sort of demonstrate some you know some more through-hole stuff I'd like to ideally demonstrates and start with slightly newer technology you know sort of things like these sorts of more modern boards and showing how we sort of remove a replace components on ones like these as well because these you really need to have a microscope you really can't do those without a microscope once the components are so darn small so okay so thanks again everyone for watching I really appreciate it thanks for spending the time I hope everyone is staying safe out there in these strange covert times and thank you again and I will catch you on the next string goodbye

Channel: Branchus Creations

Views: 168,918

Keywords: soldering, Macintosh, surface-mount, surface mount, computer repair, diy, surface mount components, old computer, electronics, electronics repair, repair, SMD, trace repair, soldering iron, how to solder, solder, circuit board repair, pcb repair, how to solder circuit boards, soldering for beginners, soldering tutorial, beginners guide to soldering, electronic soldering, beginners, soldering wires, soldering station, soldering tips, flux, tutorial, how to, electronic components

Id: K0kWcTIczh0

Length: 119min 56sec (7196 seconds)

Published: Sun Apr 12 2020