How To Solder SMD / Surface Mount IC ( QFN , QFP + PLCC )

[Music] hi everyone and welcome to the latest soldering tutorial thanks for tuning in here in this latest video this is basically covering the three sort of main types of different ic connections so on the left hand side the microchip part basically this is a plcc where there's j leads where the leads go down sort of side and underneath i'll show you a couple of things to look out for on them and how to fit them so right down the bottom you've got two qf ends so you're sort of in the middle at the bottom there i'll show you two different ways to fit them one with paste and one with some normal solder and then at the top we've got the silicon image part and qfp with basically with the gold wings or leads on the and i've also got this two-row sort of gold wing lead to gain um device so i'll show you how to fit them too so these sort of really well these methods will cover basically all your sort of ic needs apart from bj's really so what i'm going to do first i'm going to start with a silicon image part and we'll get that fitted then we move on to the sort of two road large device on the right hand side then we'll do the qf ends and we finish up with the uh the large plcc on the left hand side so yeah hopefully you sort of enjoy the video and sort of learn something along the way so what we do get straight on with the first device and uh yeah show you how to fit that move on to the first divisive in these videos this one's a quad flat pack 64 pin or qfp for short it's basically i've got the polarity marking down this bottom right hand corner just under so it's going to be underneath the body so yeah first thing just ensure your component is obviously fitted the right way it's a lot easier to sort of spin it round now on the while it's not soldered rather than try and take it off when it's soldered so first thing just i'll just add a small amount of flux up two sides for instance on this one what we do bring the component over and then we just tack it into position on two sides and then we can start with the main soldering so just bring that over and start yeah just basically lining up it's worth taking a small amount of time over this just ensure you get it sort of lined up correctly not too far to go now push that side up slightly so i think that's four sides pretty well lined up yep that's pretty good the top one i'm just going to nudge that top over slightly just do by using that one so that's yeah i'm happy with that all four sides on there on their pads and what i'll do now just tack just a couple of sides on the couple of joints on the two sides that are fluxed and that's going to hold it in position while you do the general soldering of all four rows so just add a small amount on say two of them just do one on the bottom and cut the other side and do one round there so that's uh yeah that's pretty good all four sides lined up got two joints opposite sides tacked on so now what i'll do i'm going to lay the component or the camera down and i'll show you a side view of the soldering taking place and we saw spin it around do all four sides so we'll move on to that bit now so uh yeah i'll change the camera angle so you get a good view of the soldering taking place and uh yeah hopefully it's uh it's quite sort of clear for you yeah you can see i'll do it i'll do my joints one at a time i don't like to drag solder refresh your preference you know i will say to people if you've got a method that works for you by all means yeah i'd stick with it and now we can go with the soldering hopefully the vision stays clear for you sometimes i put my iron in it can affect the focus so you do basically guess i'll get a small amount of me iron just to sort it to start with makes it easier as you're going along you know yeah we just feed it along and uh away we go just do one at a time i always like to see the outline of the legs when i'm doing the ic joints so this is fairly fine pitch but it's not the finest pitch if you can do this well you'd be fine with the others so as you can see you still see the outline of all them legs i'm just going to spin it around and move on to the second side and do the same again just get that back in focus for you so again i'm just going to just fresh bit of flux along that along that whole row and this just enables the shoulder to sort of travel to the back of the joint which is quite important again i'm just going to add a slight bit of a small amount of flux to me to the iron tip and uh yeah away we go just feed it in one at a time if you get a short circuit on these just add a fresh bit of flux and sort of try and drag it away i've also done a video on removing sort of short circuits on your pins and it's basically to get back in focus you can drift a bit of focus when i'm doing this so as you can see again i've got a nice sort of consistent amount on all them so now get on to the third side just get that back in focus so again another fresh bit of flux so you will get you will get the hang of this fairly quick i'm just going to zoom slightly out on this one so yeah you can see it's quite a quick process when you can start going along the lines and you will sort of uh you can get the hang of this sort of solving quite quick i'll say if you guess sort of a bridge between two pins it's pretty easily removed you just sort of add some fresh flux try and drag it out or you can just get some solder wick and uh or solder braid just pull it out and yeah it's pretty easy to do so as you can see one at a time it's quite a quick process there you go you've got a nice amount on all them yeah i'm sorry if the focus is slightly drifting when i'm doing my soldering but it's uh it's quite hard to sort of keep it in hopefully with this one i can keep this in focus better so again i've added flux along the top front of them joints and now away we go with here with a final row so far i've managed to not get any sort of bridges across two pins there you go you got a nice consistent joint right along them so as you can see everyone on all four sides you see all the outlines of the pins which yes that's a good sort of a sign that's the amount you want really so i'll just give these a very quick clean i won't do it properly this is just for the sake of the video but normally i'll talk brush these to really clean i'm just going to give it a quick wipe over right around it and i'll show you the results all right it's a really quick clean so basically let's zoom in slightly there you go you can see the front of every pin or not every sort of pad let's go sort of down this in one so there you go you've got a nice amount on all of them so that's one row there's the second row again same sort of amount of solder on all the pins again on that one the same again and then finally the fourth side and you've got the same amount again on them so that's what you're looking for if you can get to that sort of uh that amount you know you uh yeah you've done a pretty good job so what i'm going to do now i'm going to move on to another sort of goldwing league device a two-row sort of device and uh yeah i'll show you how to do that one and then we move on to the qf ends after that right so move on to the second with the goal wing league devices this one's quite a simple two row 44 pin ic i've got my polarity mark up here it's going to be underneath the body so yeah basically just check 100 you've got it the right way around so i'll do as in the last uh demo basically i'm going to flux up the row the two rows of joints so we'll lay the component on get it sacked in position and then yeah we'll start the soldering process i'll lay this down to get quite a good sized view of soldering taking place just get it back in view and blow it up just get the sort of there you go you've got a nice sort of side you'll get a nice source angle of the uh soldering taking place so i'm gonna do is just add some flux along both rows so that's the first thing here so i always said normally videos flux is really important just aids are soldering so much again i'm going to do this one about 350 degrees so i'm using lead free solder so we've let it do it's about 330 degrees but with this because it's lead free just do about 350. so just roughly get in position and what they're just tack one joint on to both sides and then we start soldering up the rows yeah what one joint on both of these sort of roses is plenty for this let's just get your tweezers just yeah just doesn't really matter what pin let's go around the back and do one round there it's gonna enlarge this slightly same so we'll see the soldering taking place so really clearly we should be good to go now so you got all your all your legs nicely on the pads components or dead in the middle of where it should be you can add a fresh bit of flux along limb joints this will sort of enable the sore solder to run down the side of the legs and around to the hill the sole has already got flux in it but i to tend to find the flux in the solar burns off fairly quick so you sort of need to add some external and yeah now we can uh yeah just start the soldering you don't need too much just feed it in one at a time you see it going around the sides mounted a hill some people like to drag solder sort of these components but i've sort of always done it one at a time it's just the way i like to do it but yeah whatever you whatever your preference if it works for you i'd stick with it just didn't just do the last four joints on this side so as you see i've got a nice sort of fill it all along you can still see the outline of the the pins which are that's what i aim for to see the outline the pins so what we'll do is just turn it round and do the other row just get that nicely in focus for you so i'm just going to add another bit of flux along that row so with the i've done some cleaning videos et cetera we'll show you how to get all the flux off from underneath the bodies etc so i'm always yeah i'm always so quiet and i like to put quite a bit of flux on so now i can clean it off quite well so i've already got this side tacked on so uh yeah now we do just get on with soldering the second side so again just add it as you go one pin at a time just try and leave the outline of the pin this was basically this enable you when to get to sort of the really small fine pitch devices if you can control the amount of solder you've got on these ones it will really help you when you do the fine pitch stuff let's just do the last few joints so as you can see i've got a nice consistent joint on every pin and that's both rows nicely soldered up i'm just zooming on that in one so you can sort of hopefully see the see the shape of it so yeah it's going around the background to the hill i'm just gonna sort of zoom back out slightly and get this i'm just going to clean one well i'll clean both sides up and i'll show you the end result i'll just give them a quick clean normally i'd sort of do this with a brush but just for this video i'm just going to give it a quick sort so i've done a good quite good cleaning video and yeah hopefully there's a few sort of tips in there if you want to get your boards really clean let's quickly clean this side and then we're yeah have a quick look at the joints see how it come out all right should do it let's just get that sort of focused in just enlarge it slightly so as you can see right down the row you can see this sort of rough outline of the pin you've got a nice amount going right around to the back of the back of the hill just go around to the back side same again there you can see the sort of outline of the pin that's what you're looking for every joint is pretty similar and that's so if you can aim for that you know you will really yes it's a good good sort of sized joint to get and uh and it will yeah if you can do this basically when you get to the fine pitch you'll be fine with them so anyway that's the uh second of the goldwing league devices so i'm gonna do now put a few photos up and uh yeah then we'll get on with the uh the qf ends so we do them sort of after the photo [Music] all right so come on to the first of the qfn devices basically it's the one right in the middle of your screen i'm going to do this on with solder paste i've actually decanted some paste into syringe so i'll do my syringe nozzle is fairly big so basically i'm going to syringe some onto each side and center pad and then just sort of nudge it into a sort of yeah roughly a correct position with the uh the end of a five pair of tweezers so yeah if you take a couple minutes doing getting this all right you hopefully won't get too many shorts you do tend to get a few short circuits around the outside being doing this because it's yeah and then when these are normally done with a stencil that's uh just a few fail thick so it's yeah it's hard to sort of judge the amount when you're doing this you don't a lot of people tend to put too much on and you will get a few shorts doing that you really don't need much at all so i'm just gonna do just make sure every pad's got some on it so you just need a fin trail right across the center you can always go around the outside with an iron if uh yeah if you don't get enough on one or too much on another and tidy up yeah i'll try and take just a couple of minutes doing this let's just get that across the center hopefully i won't with this amount i won't get too many shorts do this last side trying to get off that gold fire at the end there just clean my tweezers up and then hopefully i can get off off the fire as you can see i've got too much on this it looks uh yeah sort of when you're doing this always looks a bit of a mess but it actually does so when the heat starts or it'll melt in the paste actually comes up really nice right that's all the outside for so you can as you can see i've got too much on any of them so i'm just going to add some to the center small smalls the amount into the middle there this paper this uh center pad's got wires going through it to the other side so if you do get a bit of excess it tends to run down the wires because qfns do sort of go dead flat to the board so uh any excess it doesn't sort of squirt out to the sides it tends to go through the wires all right so as you can see that's about what you're looking for so i've got all the paste on there and the center's pasted up as well so what we do now just lift the component into position i've already got my polarity it's all worked out i'm just going to lift that roughly into position and then uh yeah we just get the heat gun and start melting the paste so i've got my heat gun set to about sort of 350 degrees because she's lead free i'm just gonna sort of concentrate you'll see the i'm bottom to concentrate for you on this source vis this view down here i'll spin it around at the end see if there's any shorts on it yeah we uh let him go basically i tend to hold it so roughly a correct position but yeah once it starts to take it sort of holds itself normally i'd spin this around a bit because just me a camera i'm sort of struggling to hold it into the normal position i would do as you can see the pastes are melting already i'm just going to move that over slightly as you can see i've already got some decent joints down the bottom i'm just going to melt them top ones up there tilt it up slightly now if you're getting there forgetting don't go for the first time or what you find with qfnz a lot they do sort of float into their correct position that's pretty good let's spin it around to that bottom line so hopefully get them in just get them in shot for you i'm just trying to knock that side slightly more yeah because i've got quite a nice amount at the start i haven't got any shorts so far let's do this top side there's a few solder balls laying around but they can always tidy them up just touch an iron and then disappear i think that's pretty good now i'm just going to touch my iron on some of them ones they're just going to zoom in slightly so concentrate on this side here just for just for now so if you need to tidy it up but you just add a bit of flux put your iron on there and uh yeah you'll get them all sort of nice right so let's just tidy these up for you just try and get in focus all right there you go hopefully i can keep it there i'm just going to touch these and try and get them nice and uniform so yeah if you get any solder balls what you do is just put put some flux on get your iron on there there you go you've got a nice sort of set of joints along that top side with no shorts just trying to get it a bit clear i've gone in zoomed bit big there so you see that's tidied that side up nicely fourth side around there no shorts on that side either so yeah i've got no shorts all around here so that's going nicely around there let me go back to that side that looks good and yeah that that side's looking good as well so when you clean this a lot of them solder balls will come off basically that's the way to do if you can get that well yeah if you look tall down here you'll see this sort of curved joint that you want to tend to aim for so down here sort of size joint you want so yeah if you sort of judge the amount like i had at the beginning and uh hopefully you won't go too far wrong so qfns tend to sort of float into their correct position so um yeah that's that's basically how i do the sort of solder paste option so i'll do now i'll clean this up and stick some photos up and then i'm going to move on now to the soldered option to the second of the qf ends basis this one up here so yeah i've sort of tried to clean this one up so you can see the sort of joints down there on the first one looking good i'll show you sort of all after i've done this one yeah basically the second one i'm just going to sort of tin the pads with some solder put a small amount in the center pad as well and then yeah i'll put some flux on and uh yeah we get a new component put on and you see this sort of second option so um yeah if you haven't got any paste this is a quite good option to do so just use your general solder so what we'll do just get this uh just get this tinned up the way i've got the sort of camera set up is sort of more concentrated on one side but i will sort of spin the device around so you can sort of see all four sides how they've gone yeah to put some flux on and just all you need is very small amount as you saw in the last device you don't really need much on these pads at all a lot of people do tend to put too much on that's why they will get shorts literally you don't need much at all if you put too much on here you just get quite a large joint coming out the side so as you can see i've tinned that with hardly any at all i'm just going to zoom in on that one soon yeah it's a job to saw see the height of that but this yeah it's pretty low so that's all you need just a small amount so what i'll do now just go around the other three sides and get them done so if you if you can just sort of judge this amount on these it will basically yeah make it a lot sore neater when you you come to flow it i'll just get some solder added to them quickly just run it around to all four sides so you don't need much at all on these one there's that side all around this one yeah it's quite tempting to say when you're putting a paste on as well you don't think you've got enough on until you keep adding it and so you end up with quite a lot of short space you saw when i did it i didn't get any at all so as you can see that side view that's all you need just uh small amounts all four sides sort of paste soldered up sorry so i've just add some into the center again i don't need much just put a small amount in the center so it's got the wires on there to carry any excess away just hold down move it around so basically that's all you need that's gonna sort of melt and uh go through the wires so there'd be no excess coming out the sides at all so now we can basically get the component on under yeah start heating away so what i'll do first of all i'll add some flux around this we're just going to get that bottom row zoomed in or sorry focused in so hopefully you can concentrate on that one so yeah just add some flux and then we get the uh the device sort of uh melted onto the uh onto the position well i've got me so i've got enough have me sort of hot air gun set to about 350 again this is a leg free generally i'll keep it about 350 to 360. so if these were basically sort of let it go sort of uh yes or lower okay let's get the device on there concentrate on hopefully get that bottom to the road for you you will find these as i said before they tend to float into their natural position once all four sides have sort of tanked and started to go like that's going to hold itself now the flux is uh and there's some of it's burnt away and it's sort of holding it so that should start to go soon i'll just move it so i'll take a gun around there i've got the air quite low on this just to keep the noise the video we're down really i'm just going to spin it around slightly so hopefully i can concentrate on this side i need something to go slightly down here real quick looks slight nudge i don't tend to push these down too much there you go so that so now all four sides have gone you know the underneath has gone nicely there's some four sides gone nicely so yeah if i'm struggling to get one side down just give it a very very gentle nudge just so it takes the night sort of i never saw nudge it at the end so as you can see that's that side's gone nicely so we'll just spin the uh spin the other sort of three sides get them into view for you you've got yeah then we've gone nicely there so yeah if you sort of look at this side down here you can see all the sort of shape of the earth the joint you've got that nice sort of curve joint top to bottom and then we just go back to the one at the top and see what top row see what they're like as you can see i've got a nice set of joints up there as well yeah that's what you're looking for basically so yeah as you can see there's quite nice joints along that row as well so that would be that sort of yeah that was the first component i'm showing you there but there's the second that's what i've just done this one at the bottom i'm just going to get into focus as you can see i've got a decent sort of set of joints there so yeah this one's going really well all four sides no shorts again i didn't put too much on the pads to start with as you can see i've got a nice sort of uh amount right across all of them just go back to that first component again i'll just give that a quick wipe over and you can see all the balls have gone already and you've got a nice sort of set of joints so both components have come out really well and uh yeah say that's just another side of the first one you can see in the middle of the screen there's a sort of another side of the the second one so there so that's it so what i'll do now just generally clean them up normally and uh yeah just yeah what what i'll do here i'll just clean these up stick some photos up and um yeah hopefully you've sort of seen the both methods of uh sort of how they can work and hopefully these can help you out in the future so i'm gonna do i put a few photos up with these two and then we move on to the last device the sort of j lead device and uh yeah i'll show you how to do that [Music] all right so move on to the final device in these short videos now this actual device is a j-lead ic basically what i'm going to do is going to flip it over and i'll show you the leads underneath these leads basically hook underneath the body they've all got their own sort of uh yeah little uh compartment that sort of leads sitting so if you if you sort of see each lead's got his own indent into the into the body and it sort of sits in that one thing when you fit these is um yeah if you go around the device to check underneath make sure yeah basically all the leads are sort of where they where they should be sitting nicely in this or the worst thing start fitting these and uh you realize one of them sort of come out and it's quite near the other sort of one next to it and yeah obviously that's a bit of a problem yes if you quickly look around these you'll see all four sides all in it's have the body where they should be and uh yes what you're looking for so yeah like i say when you get these devices flip them over have a quick look underneath make sure it all sort of straight and then yeah you're good to go to sort of start fitting them so that's what i do so i flip it over and uh yeah flux the board flip it over and then i'll show you how to attack it on and start assembling it so we get onto that stage now right so basically now we've checked the component we're ready to tack it into position so first thing i do we're gonna add some flux so across all four rows of pads here again i've always said about the flux really important when you're soldering so just add a sort of small amount across all four some rows of chips or pads and uh then we bring the component over into position so that's all four sides sort of fluxed up so just lift the device over just quickly just mentioned so you've got the chamfer on the silk screen there that's gonna sort of match the chamfer on the device but actually pin one you actually see sort of here you've got the indented dot on the body up there so that's pin one but basically this sort of chamfer on the device it's gonna match the center on the silk screen down there and uh so yeah what you see basically got it so right polarity this device now basically nudge the device you want to nudge this into sort of hopefully the correct position and tacky on and then we're that's where the stage we just look around all four sort of sides make sure you're happy so i'm fairly happy with that from above it doesn't look quite lined up but um yeah i can assure you yeah yeah hopefully it is so what we do just tap so just need two sort of joints tacked on opposite sides and then we'll have a quick look around here so just yeah just get two tacked on so one down this side one the opposite side let's do one down there so yeah it's got one tactile down there and so you've got one tacked on the other side so down there so um yes i'm going to change the camera angle now i'm going to show you a side view if we spin the device around so you see us all four sides are lined up and then uh yeah moving on to the soldering right so at the point now well i'm happy with all the alignment on all four sides so we uh yeah we can start doing the soldering process so what you want to do first again just i'll add in the fresh sort of bead of flux right along the first sort of side i'm going to do so yeah just put a nice amount along the front uh yeah then we can uh start doing the soldering it's basically what you're looking for a nice sort of curved affiliate i'll take some photos at the end and then to get an idea what they look like and hopefully uh you can see how this goes just feed it along one at a time so you're looking for a nice curved joint so it sort of runs along the side of each sore pin around to the back of the heel basically that's it yeah just one at a time as you go it's got a nice sort of fill it right along i'll clean all these up at the end and take some photos yeah so hopefully if i can get that m1 in focus off so i'll go zoom in and hopefully you can see the curve on here so that's what you're looking for you've got a nice curve on the m1 so it's going around the sort of side of the joint round to the hill and that's what you're looking for in all your joints so aim for that and you won't go far wrong so i'll do i'll just do another side and then uh yeah i'll clean it so do the other two and i'll clean it all up and then i'll show you the end results so we're doing this all right so moving on to side two this is one of the sides that i sort of tacked one of the joints into position earlier as you can see you got your pin one sort of indent into the body so above that tacked pin so again just it will be the flux along the longer row when we start the soldering process you just go along one at a time carefully as you go you won't go far wrong again you're not going to want too much i'm using 0.25 millimeter solder you could probably go up to point five to do these some people might say this is sort of a little too sort of thin to do this but yeah getting all right of it so again just go one at a time all the way to the end you won't go far wrong doing it this way so as you can see i've got a nice amount man along every sort of joint again i'll spin it to the one at the end you'll see tonight i'll just zoom into that m1 again you should turn so a nice curved joint so it's going right along the side of the joint round to the heel of the joint so you when these are cleaned up you see sort of better image so that's what you're looking for so what we do i'll do solder the other two sides up and then uh sort of take some photos and then yeah you should see some sort of nice end results so it's not too difficult quite often these components come in a carrier where you get sort of plastic carry on the board and you just push these into it but you still get the ones where you sort of solder so directly to the board so if yeah if you ever have to do it this is a this is a good way to do it so it's like i said i'll just solder the other two sides up quickly for you and then uh i'll show you the end results so uh right so i've quickly soldered the other two sides up just for the sega sort of length for the video so literally done in the same way as the first two sides so you can see you've got the side one this one that sort of did earlier so i'll spin it around to this side as you can see i've got this little consistent joints right along the length for the whole row i'll clean so i'll show you how i clean this in a minute quickly um i'll roughly clean one side i've sort of got a proper cleaning video on youtube which basically gets fluxed from underneath components out really sort of nicely so yeah if you ever sort of need to see how to clean your boards thoroughly it's worth checking out my youtube posting on the yeah how to clean your boards as you can see i've got all four sides uh really consistent so i'm just literally going to clean one of these sides quickly and i'll spin it around you might get a little better view of the the joints just do this one along this side i'll say i've got youtube posting really sort of great methods for cleaning boards gets all the sort of flux from underneath devices away and uh here i'm sort of left with pristine boards so so that's that side cleans what i do just bring that aside into interview and uh yeah there you go got a lovely sort of set of uh consistent joints right along the length of it just trying to zoom them in you see a lovely curve on every sort of joint right along the whole row with no shorts anywhere and that's what that's what you're aiming for see what we do don't get caught out with bent legs underneath so like i said right at the start of this sort of clip check your joints underneath before you do any soldering so anyway that sort of wraps up all these different types of ic devices so these are the j-legged ones and that's following them from the other ones so yeah hopefully sort of found this uh these videos enjoyable and hopefully i can help you and yeah if you sort of enjoyed it please like and subscribe and um yeah i sort of see you again soon with more soldering videos so thanks for your time and uh take care and i'll see you all soon thank you [Music] you

Channel: Mr SolderFix

Views: 73,734

Keywords: How to solder IC's, SMD soldering, how to solder smd ic, qfp soldering, soldering tutorial, soldering, using solder paste, surface mount IC soldering, how to solder PLCC, how to solder qfp, how to solder QFN, smd soldering tutorial, SMT soldering, how to solder surface mount IC, how to solder smd

Id: 0LSG5uIdqJc

Length: 38min 44sec (2324 seconds)

Published: Sat Aug 20 2022