SNS 370: Several Small Machining Jobs

[Music] thank you [Music] foreign [Music] guys we've got a real simple little project here to get done these are some parts off of a die filer actually don't know the make of the die filer but I can tell you that's what it that's what it's off of you got the flywheel here then you have the crankshaft and all he needs done is to Mill a new Woodruff key in the shaft if you look on the back side right here you can see what's left of what was most likely the original Woodruff key and it somehow over the time it has sheared off and just the set screw was uh kind of pressed down in there to kind of hold it in place so that's all he needs this uh this project belongs to a young fellow here in town that contacted me via email and asked me if if this was something that I could help him do because he couldn't find anybody around that was uh that was willing to take on this little project and that's how most of the machine shops are people stay busy with their production runs and and don't want to mess with little stuff like this but you know obviously we can take care of this no problem for him and I thought it was really interesting uh that he that he's working on this because as I said he looks kind of young maybe 18 or so I don't know 18 to 20. and he says that uh he just likes Tinker with this kind of stuff so you got to give it to him for uh wanting to get his hands on mechanical things and work on this kind of stuff so I actually encourage them to check into our local College PSC because they do have a manufacturing program there that he could look into if this is the kind of stuff that he was really interested in and maybe maybe he could uh find some kind of career in manufacturing so anyway I told him I'd give him a hand so all we're going to do is we're going to set this shaft up in the in the mill and we're going to Mill a new Woodruff key for him this is a 3 16 wide key that's been broached in the in the flywheel right here they've got a set screw hole drilled and tapped at an angle to lock it in place so apparently it just comes down and sits right on top of that Woodruff key I do have a I have a this is a number 608 Woodruff key which is a 3 16 wide by one inch in in diameter there if used to measure the diameter of that and I do have a brand new cutter that hadn't been used for this is one of dad's number 608 Woodruff cutter so we'll set all this up in the middle machine and we'll come in here just like so and just uh cut a new Woodruff key form so we'll go to the mill get this shaft set up and get it done all right so over here on our Miller Machine one of the things that makes this job a little bit tricky is the fact that when you come in here and you clamp it into machine Vise like this you don't have enough room to get in here and actually cut the keyway because your Vice jaw is is in the way so what I want to do is space this out so that we can come in here we'll just set that down for now so that we can come in here with our cutter and have clearance away from this jaw to be able to come in there and cut that so I'm going to use we're going to start off with these I'm using the fireball tool magnetic blocks now I've already miked these with a micrometer and both of them within a half a thousands being the same thickness so good enough for what we're doing here Building A Woodruff key so we're going to set these down in here this is also going to allow me to have a little bit of clearance in the middle for a v-block that we're going to use on our moving jaw so that's going to come up and it's not going to hit the the parallel right there all right so we'll go ahead and set this in there like so now we're going to Mill the key there's the old one we're going to rotate it we're going to Mill it 180 degrees across on the other side so it looks like they pretty well got it the counterweight of the crankshaft is at the bottom if you're looking over here so we're looking at it and that should be good right about there I can see the key right here on the back side it looks like it's directly 180 out now we'll take this v-block right here and this can sit right in there like that and hold it and give us our clearance over here to Mill our keyway so in addition I'm going to use this half inch stick magnetic block on the back side of the V right here and I'll adjust that so that it's kind of down some so we'll go ahead and set this in there in the middle run our jaw up very lightly just make sure it gets squared up just like that there all right and then I'm going to take this and just just so that it looks a little more even I'm going to tap this magnetic block even with the top of the v-block right there all right and that should have us right there we'll just torque device and you can see now we can come in here with our Woodruff cutter and have plenty of clearance between the work piece and the Vise there to be able to cut that keyway so the flywheel that goes on the end is an inch and a quarter thick and it sits flush with the end of the shaft there so we want to make sure that we put our key directly in the middle of that so that's going to end up being 5 8 from the end of the shaft to the center of it so we'll use a half inch edge finder for that once we find the edge we'll just move it down 7 8. that should be the center location of where we're going to Mill our keyway we've got our Woodruff cutter mounted in to collet nice and tight so to touch off on this I'm going to Simply touch off using the quill so the the bottom and the the sides of these Cutters are ground flat okay there's no clearance on either side of it your only clearance is behind The Cutting Edge there so we can come down with the quill and just gently touch the top of the shaft which is what I'm doing I'm just going to come down until it touches just like that I'm gonna go ahead and lock the spindle in place we're going to use our y-axis to move off out of the way so that cutter should be right on the edge of that shaft and it measures exactly one inch so our Z movement up is going to be half the thickness of this which is 0.5 and in half the thickness of the cutter which is going to be three thirty seconds so our total movement is going to be 0.5937 I believe 5937 so we'll go ahead and zero out the knee and crank it on up got our zeroed out here and we make sure our cutter is clear and it's not going to hit the jaw or the shaft there zero so one two three four five and then around to 93 just going to go about 93 and a half and that should be good enough right there we should be ready to Mill this key first thing I need to do is get the the cutter touched off on a flat so I want to come in and cut the radius of the shaft until the full width of the cutter is actually cutting at that point our depth is going to be 0.339 and you can pull this stuff up in the machinery's handbook under the Woodruff key seat section and it gives you all of the information you need to know for whatever size Key C cutter that you're using there generally run these Cutters kind of slow also helps with chatter and vibration too all right so that spot right there is where our zero is going to be coming back in until it touches and we'll stop it there I'm going to reset my digital readout on why to zero and we're ready to make this cut I'll pull you in for a tighter shot for this cut here [Music] [Music] thank you we can get in here and scale our our measurement you know make sure that right depth and what I've got here I've got two Woodruff Keys same size but this one right here I've taken and I have file on a mill smooth file so that you can easily stick it into the keyway like that and then you can get in there with your scale and actually measure the stick out above the shaft there okay this I only use for measuring this is not going to get sent with it so A Woodruff key should fit snugly should be nice and tight and you can see this is one that I'll send with it and it's it's tight so you'll have to take that I would dress it slightly but you want it to where it bumps in there and it stays nice and tight so this is the one that I will send with the shaft right there but just for measuring purposes we've got the one that's filed right here now I didn't go the exact full depth which was 0.339 I ended up going 0.330 on the dro just to leave it because sometimes it goes a few thousands deeper than you want it but the internal keyway of the flywheel is an eighth inch so as long as you're just under eighth inch on this stick out here you're going to clear so if we put a scale up there you can see the 1 8 line it's it's just shy of the 1 8. and uh flip over there's 30 seconds so the actual depth would be three thirty seconds but you see we've got it we've got just a shade over just using the scale measurement there so this key once you put the new one in there that should clear nicely and and have the right amount of stick out for our application so we're ready to get this out of the out of the vice job is done one thing we've got left to do is a little bit of deburring on it to cut her out first and get it put away well that's it for this job it's all finished up there just wanted to did I wanted to show you this so we've got our flywheel here so this is the new key that I have not dressed I'm going to send with the with the shaft there and just want to show you it fits that keyway nicely got a nice fit in there and as I said our depth there is 1 8 so we got adequate clearance over the top of this key once it's pressed in there and one of the things I wanted to show you so this is the key that I took and filed it a little bit more narrow so that we could easily use it to go in and out to check with on our depth so I just used a blue Sharpie just so that I I know that that's the one that I filed and I'm going to put it back away this is a Woodruff key kit that I had picked up from McMaster Carr so it's got pretty much all of your standard sizes in in this size range anyway these get much larger but this is a nice kit to have around the shop here so we are using the number 608 which is 3 16 by 1. so I'm going to take this guy and put it in this one right here and we've got a good reference key that we can use next time we have to Mill that particular size right there all right so this is finished up I hope you guys enjoyed watching this little project and we got plenty more to do so I hope to see you again [Music] goodness thank you thank you [Music] foreign [Applause] foreign foreign foreign foreign hey guys I've got this small job that I want to share with you and I say small because we've got some small parts here that we've got to work with in small diameters that we have to work with so what we have are two hydraulic Rod glands right here okay and I'm what I was told is that these are used to open and close a an engine hatch on a boat and so there's one on each side of the hatch there this is the actual rod and the Piston right there we don't have to do anything with this but this is how they work so you've got the gland that slides down so your seal is inside there there's a tube that just screws into and you're going to have a port on both sides that makes the rod you know extend or retract what they want to do is to modify the groove inside the gland here to use a regular like hydraulic type seal so this is a double lip Rod seal instead of the O-ring so we need to get inside this bore and machine that Groove to a wider and larger diameter than what's in there because right now it's sized for a zero series o-ring which is this guy right there all right so first thing I had to do was get in here and measure this so this is a perfect job to make use of the steric groove mic so I've got my Starrett number 260 Groove mic right here and you can use this to get in there and measure things like the land which is the distance between the face and where that where the groove starts on the inside so I get in there like that and I measure the land and then I actually measured the groove width there so I got that done I got a couple of pictures there that I took to share with you that it's just hard to show the detail of actually using this mic and getting some video of it these are these are a little tricky to use they you just have to get the right feel and you have to get everything squared up to get an accurate reading on that so usually it takes a few tries to get it squared up inside there to get it to work but I took some measurements the measurements in the photos are probably a little bit different than what I actually measured because I did it three times and make sure I got myself right there so I wrote my Dimensions down the the land right now is 370 thousands from the face to where the groove starts and now and I'm I want to write that down so that I know how far in to take the tool whenever we touch off all right so it's going to be 370 thousandths and then our our groove width right now is 90 thousandths wide Groove diameter or 5 8. I measured it being 626. now I use these little spring calipers right here to get inside and measure this groove width or Groove diameter I mean and then you just take that take that out and I use some calipers on top of that and measure it out and that tells you your your groove diameter okay so that's our seals and they brought let me just move these out of the way here so he actually brought the paper this is just a printout of the uh of Hercules Hydraulics and this gives your specifications to the groove width and diameter it needs to be so nominal Rod size is a half inch so the inside of this is half inch OD of it's three quarter and the height which is the thickness of it height and seals is uh 1 8. so it gives us the specs of what the groove needs to be so it needs to be 138 thousandths wide with a diameter of 750 thousands now you do have a tolerance and it lists that in this book here of what your tolerance is I believe it's our groove width is plus ten thousandths minus zero and in our housing diameter which will be our groove diameter 750 plus 2 minus zero so this gives you our specs I can pull up my hydraulic book and this is the same exact information that's in there so that's the job at hand now it's a little tricky getting in there using a small boring bar and a tool bit but what I wanted to do is go ahead and get me a micro 100 carbide bar to do this job so that's what I got here we've got a new micro quick carbide bar that is going to make this job quick and easy it has just enough room to be able to go inside this bore and cut that Groove the way we want okay I don't have to fuss around with trying to hand grind a little tiny tool bit to get in there and do this this goes inside this tool holder right here this micro quick it's going to go inside there it's a Precision Fit so I got to make sure I get it straight in there and it just locks in with a with a set screw so that's going to make that tool nice and now that I have this it'll be in the toolbox to go along with my other micro quick bars for jobs like this so enough talking let's go over to the lathe and see if we can get this little job done the way these micro 100 the micro quick style of bars work they have an angle ground on the back of the bar that helps Center the tool exactly straight so there's a pin machined in the holder right here so when you stick the bar in there and you see this this little ground section here that's the flat for the set screw that locks it in place so it's real easy you just you push it back and that pin squares it up on that angle there and then whenever you tighten the set screw here it locks it into place and pushes it back against that PIN they make these in a lot of different sizes for boring grooving threading they have Acme thread and a lot of different links and even different shank diameters there so this is a half inch shank I've got it in 3 8 as well for even smaller stuff but they offer these in a few different size Shanks so it's a really nice system to have for the for the lathe I'm going to get the tool touched off on both the bore and the face so that I can use my digital readout for our movements that we want So This Bar will just clear this bore all right that's going to be our X what I'm going to do is just go ahead and zero actually I'm going to put a value in there at uh 0.5 so that's our work in diameter right there since we touched off on the bore and it's all centered just a little bit because we're we're in a three jaw Chuck but I'm going to measure it and make sure that we cut it to the proper diameter but that'll get it started right there now we can go ahead and do the uh do the face here as well that's our touch off on our face I'm going to zero y coming here to our 0.5 going about five thousandths all right and then I've got my we need to go in 496 thousands that should be our location see you can't even can't even see it that's why I'm saying it's hard to share with this kind of stuff but go get her done so I'm using the digital readout and I'm on a half inch I want to take our tip of our tool out to 0.750 on the dro the bottom of our groove there and we're going to take it out to 750. I'm I'm watching the dro by the way we're at 700 749 all right there we go now I'm gonna go back to a half inch on x so I need to step it over we got to do a z movement with our tool to widen out the groove and that is going to be got to rip down here 12 000 so we're going to move the tool in 12 thousandths on Z all right I'm gonna bring I'm bringing the tool back out to 0.750 on our diameter [Music] all right 750 I'm going to bring it back to zero on Z to track the tool back to 0.5 on x you got to do that to make sure that we clear our tool coming out and go in about two thousandths and we have [Music] that should be cut to size but I'll get in there with our mics and measure and verify it all right let's get in there with our groove mic and see what kind of measurement we can get with that I'm going to turn the readings of the barrel down so that I'm not looking at it because you don't want to read it you don't want to try to make the mic read what it is that you're wanting you do you want to base it off of the feel of the mic so that's feeling right I'm kind of putting pressure back and forth there you also want it Square in line with the axis there so that feels pretty good let's see what we'll do is just transfer our reading to these uh digital calipers let's see what I get 140 thousands I was reading 140 before I pulled them off there so I think the width of our groove is right on par of where we did it it should be right because I measured the tool before I stuck it in there the carbide tool is 0.126 wide and the width that we wanted is 138 thousandths wide so that's a difference of twelve thousand so once we made our first cut I moved the tool in Z Direction 12 thousandths and brought it back out to 750 which should make the 138 thousandths um wide Groove there so on our diameter there we're going to use these spring calipers again it's going to stick them in there you can get some good measurements of these but these can be really tricky too because you got to get the feel right try to get top dead center and just slightly rock it to where you you feel a little bit of friction you feel it touching and just leave it alone once you get it there and then transfer the reading over to some calipers so we're looking for 750 I'm just going to rock it back and forth and I feel it touching right there I feel it touching so I'm going to call that our measurement 751 on our diameter there okay so we should be with intolerance call you know call out in the book anyway so really I need to get in there and see if I can break those sharp edges off there I've got a Threading tool that'll go in this bar so I might use that to get in there and just break the sharp edge off of it but other than that we got the first one done I've got the threading bar in there I'm going to use that just to break those sharp edges and I'm using my dro to tell me where I'm at on the tip of that tool [Music] all right I'm gonna bring it out a hundred thousands now this one I'm going to do by sound I can just see up in there I'm going to go back and touch the back side I don't know if you can hear that all right I'm going to bring it forward and touch the front side I'm just listening for it I think you can hear that all right let's bring it back a hundred thousandths so we can retract it there we go so even though it's 30 degree it's still a chamfered edge in there go ahead and take this tool out okay looks good in there all right one down one to go I just want to go ahead and verify these measurements on the second gland that we just cut [Music] 143 perfect I actually went instead of 12 000 it's like the first one I actually went fifteen thousand so on that one I realized our our plus tolerance was ten thousand so so I'm getting 144 to 145 on our width right there Target was 138 plus 10 minus zero and we got our little little Yankee spring calipers here go in until I know that it's not touching both sides and then try to bring it out rocking it until I get that touch top dead center I'm going to go with that right there see what we get touching right there on 748 so that's telling me that I know it's going to be right where it needs to be I brought it to the same diameter as the first but I said these can be a little tricky to get it on the exact size so we're a couple thousandths off with a spring caliper I know that we're there based off our Dro readings there all right so I just need to chamfer that one and then this would be finished up here all right guys our two Rod glands are finished up that was uh pretty simple but with the right tools it made it a lot easier than what it could have been without a Dro or without the proper tools there so the micro 100 carbide bar was really a Time Saver there on being able to get in there and cut that without having to make you know a tool bit there so this will be a great tool to keep in the Box and then good use of our groove mic and our little spring calipers to get that done so I'm not going to put the seals in there I'm going to let the customer the guy that has this I'm going to let him put them in there but otherwise that little job that's done thank you foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] all right [Music] there's one of them hey man jobs that landed in my lap in one of those classic cases where somebody has tried to fix something and instead of letting somebody that actually knows how to work on hydraulic parts fix it they try to fix it themselves I don't know what what all they've done here but this bolt right here has been fabricable look at that and you see that Den in the end right there well inside this hole this bolt goes right up in here inside here there is a ball check valve like a ball bearing that's stuck inside there because they have run this in there so tight that it pressed it down in there so there's no way to get in there to actually kind of knock the ball out so what I've done is I made up this uh simple little adapter right here out of some scrap metal that's going to screw right into this fitting right here this this tap hole that'll screw in there and bottom out that it'll block the other two holes that's drilled in there from this hole here and going down into the tank we got this quick coupling that's going to screw into that right there and we're going to use a hydraulic power unit and a hook to this and use hydraulic power to hopefully come through here and just blow that ball out of that hole we'll put a bolt a good bolt down inside this hole here to capture it and hopefully it won't take much pressure at all to just blow that ball right out of that stuck hole there so that's the idea we'll give it a shot and see if that works [Music] hey buddy got it back together thank you works perfect foreign foreign foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music]

Channel: Abom79

Views: 184,801

Keywords: Abom79, Machine shop, machining, manual machining, manufacturing, industrial repair, lathe, mill, Cnc

Id: 00taZ5njd0U

Length: 49min 7sec (2947 seconds)

Published: Sat Mar 18 2023