SKEW CHISEL __How to shape, sharpen and set it up PART 1

hi welcome back uh so finally it's time for skew video uh now I've been thinking a little bit so I might do one big video uh or split it split it into uh parts so not sure yet uh you'll see when the the video is live uh so uh I have a package here that I was waiting for this uh SK video and uh we're going to make in this video as well uh we're going to repurpose this uh captive ring tool which I really don't have a need for uh this is 12 mil wide by 6 mil thick uh we have a feral here and we're going to make a handle using the skew and this package was sent by standard company uh thank you Roland for sending these um now inside uh which I'll show you in a few seconds is one tool that I've been waiting for a while to to try it out uh again uh uh first I met uh this sort of Tool uh like 17 years ago when I started learning my woodworking trade uh which I'll show you in a few seconds uh so they did provide the handle for this tool here and uh this is Ash handle and uh this two types of oil this is sort of a white oil uh it shouldn't change the color much of light color Timbers like ash or Maple uh or I should better say not yellow it as much so uh we'll do a little side by side and this is their uh Standard Oil which I'm actually quite anxious to to try it out as well uh couple of brochures uh this is their uh L type one of lad that they make and the vb36 is another one which is maybe more famous in the Bol turning community so uh let me just put put this aside and we'll see the the tool in in question so so like I said uh first time I encountered uh this sort of tools was 17 years ago when I started to learn my trade and uh this is a Hand Forged uh skew chisel and uh it it's really different kind of feel and uh um now I've been told uh that these are like uh common highspeed steel uh tools uh however uh because they are uh manufactured differently they go through different processes in uh versus something like a a more um how should I say this mass produced highspeed steel uh these are quite different and they should hold an edge longer and get Sharper Edge as well so I'm quite Keen to test this out uh this is I believe um uh 35 to 30 mil uh like conical uh playay uh size and 350 M long so you can see it's a quite long uh skew uh I've never used this kind of conical shape um so I'm quite anxious to to try it out and I'll put a link down below um from their uh like tab on their website for hand uh forged uh tools they have gouges scrapers uh SKS stting tool um all sort of tools and uh uh I hope to get few of those as well in the future you can see this is quite long tool so it doesn't need a long handle for it and uh this type of tools you might seen in old uh videos maybe or maybe some old photos uh from the past Century uh so like in the 40s 50s 60s '70s something like that uh for from production Turner they would use this kind of setup and uh so I'm quite anxious to try this out and we're going to use this uh this skew to turn the handle for uh this one so let me show you one of my most used uh SKS and this is 1 in 25 mil uh wide and uh I hope you can see the profile here so it's a a little curve like so and the the angle here if I would draw a line like so and uh get uh the point from The Long Point to short Point uh in a straight line it will be around 70° maybe 75° something in that range um so I don't like to go further down just doesn't feel right uh the skew in that way and you can see this one is quite uh similar uh just a little bit more more of an acute angle which uh I'm going to curve the top here and the bottom and suit my need of um of grind let's say or the the profile um the same I'm going to do with this one here the small guy uh so uh let me just draw here so I hope you can understand this a little bit better so if we look from the skew again from the top Bird's view uh so we have this kind of profile and uh this is where the handle would go um so again if this was zero this is 90° so just take roughly 15° off and that works for me um I forgot to say that uh I'm going to show you how I go about skews and uh how I was learned to use them and profile them and then so on uh so this is roughly uh 15° uh give or take doesn't have to be exact now I go step further and I really like curved Edge so I hope you can see this how it looks so it has a sort of a flattish here not completely flat but you see at the grinder how I make that and then nice flowing curve to the to the uh short Point here so it looks like so if I would draw it from the top again so sort of a flattish let's say 1/3 but not completely uh Square let's say and just give it a little bit more curve as we approach the short point and that's the bevel here as well so that's pretty much on the shape of it so we'll have to convert uh this big one so I would have to take a little bit more here more let's say at 90° and then slightly curved it and that will be my profile at the moment um when I test this out I'll see if that works on this conle which I assume it will uh same will happen on this one you can see here um this sort of has the the bevel here already uh on both sides so I will probably have to go only to here and then uh curve it slightly and that will be okay probably there will be remnants of the bevel this original bevel here uh but I don't care with time I'll get down through this and uh I'll show you what I like on these uh scraper blades um not skew blade let's say um if you got it like this in this format uh uh this is M2 highspeed steel uh bar which I was given from crown and this just is quite convenient to convert to skew so now the the big question I get uh is which angle uh do I go for my SKS and um U just draw the side view here my excuse my renal drawing but I hope I'll do this okay okay like so so uh angle uh usually it's sort of uh stated as included angle so um uh if you saw The Parting Tool uh you know it's roughly around 30° uh that's included angle uh however uh I find mind and I was thought this way as well um that I don't care about the angles uh and if you saw The Parting tool video uh you know a little bit uh what I'm talking about same goes pretty much for the gouges as well uh for the spindle gouges for pretty much any tool I don't set on specific angle however um I want to be sort of consistent with the the the skew chisels and I like this sort of uh angle it works great for softwood and for Hardwoods and uh you might have to change it a little bit uh maybe get it more blunt or um more acute depends on wood that you're working but uh General principle that I go with is and this is uh really big science and uh uh behind this so uh bear with me so we have thickness of the blade right so uh both I actually all three of these here are 6 M thick blades so here on at the drawing uh this is 6 mil as well let's say uh my bevel here the length of it I want it to be one and a half times uh longer than the the thickness here I hope that makes sense let me um repeat that so uh the Ness here is 6 mil so if I multiply that uh by 1 and a half I will get 9 mil 9 mil length let's say or number uh 9 mil so that's my my angle um now I say angle but it's sort of a length let's say uh if I take if I take a ruler and uh let's go from 10 it will be much easier to see so I hope you can see this is roughly if I place it correctly give me a few seconds so you can see I hope that there is 9 mil maybe a little bit over 9 mil somewhere around there um that works for me great so uh it can be a little less than nine a little over nine uh obviously um but I generally for if I have 6 mil uh thick blade uh I would go for 9 mil and that actually is for me the the easiest way to grasp around angles and um everything around skews to say it again uh so uh this is 6 mil uh thickness of of skew which is actually quite standard thickness uh I wouldn't go for any thicker than that just isn't necessary it's not scraper and uh we're not using a big leverage here to to shape the wood so 6 mil is uh the the fattest I would go let's say so 6 mil if you uh multiply that by 1 and a half uh you will get uh 9 mil so so I hope this makes uh little sense here uh so again I don't go by um included angle here and then measure it uh with protractors and uh stuff like that so when I start to uh sharpen the the skew the the few of key points that I want to keep is Center Line so if I draw a line I want that Center Line to be uh the peak here on both sides on both um short edges here so the the point here has to be in the middle of the blade so the way you achieve that is that you consistently grind uh both sides so don't go one side um way over and then you'll have actually a longer bevel so when everything aligns correctly you'll have sort of a same bevel length on both sides and you'll have it in the middle of the blade the very Peaks here so I hope that makes sense um so again this is the big one uh that we're going to convert uh actually not converted but reshape so a little flattish here almost flattish surface and then curve down uh for the short point and uh again for this one here as well so okay so here we are at the grinder and I'll start out with the smaller skew uh now uh these edges are not sharp uh but they're actually not uh easy to Glide especially so uh the skew you'll hold it on edge which will go uh when we're going to use in more in depth uh so you want this to to be more uh user friendly and rounded over uh now the top edges you don't necessarily have to round it uh over more but these two for the short point I like to have it more rounded over uh this one here as you can see uh got straight from the uh blacksmith uh office let's say uh Workshop uh nicely rounded over and I just hit it with all the edge here uh with this is 360 Just lightly go over uh just to smooth it out a little bit more so you can use uh belt sander whatever you uh have at hand uh to to bring this to nice rounded uh shape if you're using like bot uh skew with the handle from manufacturer most most likely they come with already uh sort of a rounded uh profile as well uh this is something that I was way overdue on uh making and that is flattening the uh the platform here it has a weird hump here uh here on the lower part here and uh whenever I would uh sharpen skew it can sort of U how should I say it's not sitting flat on the platform so give gives a little weird motion so uh make sure your platform is uh decent one and flat one preferably so um again I'll start with this one uh I'll just use the co uh Stone here uh just to get this all down and I won't dunk this into water I'll just um let it cool down naturally uh it's winter anyway so it shouldn't take too long so okay so this is now a rough profile uh I don't worry about blowing I won't dunk this into water like I said it get hot on the CBN uh but from experience when I use the CBN it usually uh lightly cools down by itself so um again I'm not worried about the blue of the steel uh highspeed steel usually are not the issue uh so I have the platform Set uh for I think that is the correct angle uh but we'll see so um what I like to do is uh for my sort of a curve uh Edge on the on the skew is actually have it uh I don't go past the the center line let's say so you can draw a line if you like um so perpendicular line to the wheel I don't go past that uh I don't even go all the way down to it so maybe a degree or two up to that line so if this would be uh the perpendicular line to the wheel I would stop maybe a degree or two uh before lining it up uh here so hope that makes sense and then I uh push it up and give it the curve and obviously do that from both sides so let that's one side for now I flip it to other side so as you can see uh this side is very close to uh finished uh still a little bit more so I'll switch again to the other side so I hope you can see now I'm getting uh really close to finish um grind still have a flat spot here on the bottom uh it's actually a little bit warm to the touch so uh now I'll actually and and actually show you this as well so I'm pretty much bang on on the middle the point is in the middle of of the blade and uh let's just check the bottom uh and that's as well very good so I'm parallel on both sides so now I just want to check the length of the the bevel here and try to show you this as well and it's not that easy um when the blade is hot so I hope you can see this this is now uh like 7 and 1 half mil so I can extend the grind uh or the platform I should say uh to a little more acute angle so you can tap it uh down there a little bit so this is not tighten all the way down so just want to see if I'm taking the the heel here uh which I am so so I'll just continue on with this angle we can double check one more time so if I'm on the point in the middle of the blade which I am on the the the Long Point and on the short Point uh as well that's okay and you can see now this is the grind that I'm going for or the shape so slight uh straight or straightish uh here at the Long Point and then I'll just curve this a little bit more uh I have a little bump here you can see maybe uh but let's see just double check the angle here here so I hope you can see that I'm really really close this is 8 and 1/2 mil so I'll stick with this uh that's okay I can maybe tap it one more time down there uh just to extend it a little bit but that's pretty much it and uh this is now it so this is the finished uh skew half in the grind on it uh or the shape so you can see uh I don't care about the included angles I just measure the the the length of the the bevel and if it's uh in that kind of formula so um the thickness uh multiply by 1.5 it should get you roughly in that ball part and that actually works for me and like I said I was taught this way uh like 17 years ago almost uh to to set it up so uh now I'll switch it to the big conical one this one I'm quite uh curious to see how it goes on a CBN so uh I won't go uh or actually I might go just roughly on uh course wheel just to shape [Music] it okay so that's a rough profile you can see and it's obviously dull at the at the nose so now it's uh this should be a good angle to for all the the rest of the SKS that I have so I'll just use that angle and just sharpen it uh so uh what I found out as I'm getting getting quite close to still a little flly spot you can maybe see a reflection there uh the the length isn't the same so I just double check the thickness and it's here it's conical this way but it's also conical that it's thinner at uh at the very top here and gets thicker as you get down to the tank here um so here it's just a little less than 5 mil so um I just have to adapt and the angle should be okay since it's okay on the other uh as well uh but it will be a little shorter uh length of bevel so I hope this makes sense to you uh again it's not the I'm not worried about the angle number I'm worried about how this will perform and we'll see that in a few seconds and um just have to sharpen it a little bit more still have a original bevel here uh and here as well so here we are back at the lead and I want to um bore in uh this length here and uh this has already 6 M hole for this very Point here it's roughly 6 M Square uh maybe a little bit bigger on this um conical side here uh and I just lightly sanded the the handle uh with 240 which will be the last grd for this handle as well so it's more like apples to apples let's say comparison when we use the the white oil so um so this is pretty much the uh the the bottom for the bottom of the hole and here in the drill I have 7 mil uh drill uh which I'll go um roughly 20 mil less uh depth uh then uh this one is here uh 6 mil so um just just roughly see where we are uh so around 20 M okay so I have rough idea where to [Music] stop okay so that's it and I'll switch to 8 mil or 9 mil something like that so this is 8 and 1/2 mil drill bit and let's see uh so roughly maybe 1 in in so that's it and uh for final drill I'll use this uh 10 mil drill and just going to bore uh maybe 5 6 mil uh maybe uh 10 mil top here at the very top of the handle so that's pretty much it now uh there will be uh a little hole here on the sides but I'm not concerned about that so you can see this pretty much goes in uh quite well uh so what I'll do actually is just grab a smaller drill bit and stick it way down and just give it a little side to side motion and this is should be now nice fit inside and you can see I still have a little ways in and I still have to adjust it so it's roughly in line uh where I want it to be so I just play with this a little bit more there we go so that's now should be it and you pound the hand handle here you can tap it on the laad uh or uh use the wooden Hammer here which I'll do uh here it is uh all attached uh you can see pretty straight in quite happy with that and uh really nice uh fit here you can see and um now I won't oil it yet I'll oil it at the very end uh so now it's time to actually turn the the handle for the smaller uh skew and then we'll can go in depth on uh how to use a skew uh and uh I hope uh get rid of your fear of using one so so I have here a drill bit uh which is the smallest here uh measurement for the smaller skew and uh just going to position this here by eye and position here as well just hold it lightly turn on the Le hold on the blank and just drill it I think that should be okay to shape the the handle so pop that end into sport drive and just lightly press it [Music] on and I'll speak about uh tool breast height and speed and everything in just a few minutes and uh let's see how this big boy is working [Music] so so tighten up the tail stock a little more [Music] [Music] a that's looking really nice and uh I just go a few Strokes with the grain just to remove any scratches uh are two handles that I've turned yesterday or for you this is just a few minutes ago um so here on this one is just the white oil and it's a nice uh color and it's actually maybe a little just maybe a shade lighter uh than the the true Ash uh but they do recommend that you put the regular oil on top of the white oil which I did on this one here and I hope you can see it's a true color of Ash here uh without any o oil on it and I really do like it uh so it has the oil on but you wouldn't notice it uh in terms of color and just for the comparison this is the same uh sort of um uh Ash uh as uh this handle here uh but you can I hope you can see try to get it uh this is with just the regular oil on and you can I hope you can see in person it's a little bit more obvious this is more yellow as as Ash usually is when you apply the oil versus this one with white and regular oil on and this is just the white oil so um if you like the yellow color of Ash then just use the regular oil but if you're like me and you like the the true color of just sanded Ash without any oil on it so this is the the way to go and just really is nice nice color and again it still has oil on but doesn't look like that so quite pleased with that so uh like I said I'll leave the link down below uh where you can find this oil and uh um I believe that steinard company do send stuff worldwide so if you want to order and test this for yourself if you're using a lot of light colored um Timbers uh but you don't like the yellowing effect that the oil has on it uh natural oils uh then these what white oil and combination maybe uh of regular oil and white oil uh is maybe for you so like I said the links are down below so so so that's one catch that's the other one let's do the one uh before the tool rest so that's three uh what else um show you this one so that's the major one this will be nice decoration

Channel: Tomislav Tomasic Woodturning (Dodir Drva)

Views: 25,201

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Id: eSGu0kTdlds

Length: 32min 43sec (1963 seconds)

Published: Sun Dec 17 2023