Johansson Mikrokator Comparator Platen

[Music] welcome back ox tools I'm tom so what we got today here this is kind of interesting this is a Johansson comparator stand and this was sent to me by a viewer who wishes to remain anonymous but anyway this came all the way from Sweden believe it or not and it's an original cej Johansson comparator standard so this thing's built like a tank let me tell you it was missing a piece which is what this video is about we're recreating the the anvil that was missing and we have some machining in this video and you guys will get to see machining this thing but we should look at some of the design features of this which are kind of interesting and and notable and then we have the the proper indicator that goes in here as well so it's got this large 30 millimeter shank okay so that's kind of the general the general layout but let's take a look at some of the design details alright the first thing I want to point out let's take this out of here let's set that aside hopefully you can see in there and you can see okay there you can see it a little bit better so what they've done and this is actually a really nice trick here so you saw that slides on this shaft here but what they've done is they've they believe the center section here and the reason for that is that's where the the clamp screw is actuated on and what they want and this is correct as they want it's a clamp on these outer edges first before the center section and that gives you the most most rigidity when when you use one locking screw like that so it's actually just a subtlety of a designing a clamping mechanism like that and there you can see they've done it in there as well and just a nice it's just a nice touch I noticed it I went oh wow okay that's great so what that means is there's kind of a minimal sliding area right but when you when you lock this down it locks and there's no no no wiggle in that direction okay kind of neat then well let's we'll go down and we'll take a look at this anvil - all right so here's here's the anvil now this is the new one that I made and like I said you guys will get to see the machining work on that you know in a few minutes here or so what we have here is we have a we have a platen and then it has some some locking screws here and you can see that they're cone point and then those reference with those little notches there and in the video we show how to accurately position a V or an OPS a V or a notch like that in relation to a corner and that's one of the intern the machining content of this video show that so so that's kind of neat and then it has a fine adjust mechanism down here and let's pop that out of there so in there there's their relief thing again there let's slide this aside so it's got a this is a like a micrometer screw here and it acts on the bottom of this and that's how you make your finest there so instead of a rack and pinion or some I don't know kind of awkward setup there what's nice about this is it's all acting right on the center line so we lock that down we leave that loose and then we make micrometer adjustments here cuz to null the indicator out so pretty cool so what do you say we look at some machining content on how to position grooves and then we got some surface grinder action here doing these these long skinny little slots so don't get to see that very often all right so what we're doing now is we're cutting these these V grooves here and these retain the platen and the instrument and also allow you to put some accessory pieces on the on that working site so what we want to do is we want to actually position these accurately in relation to the edge and also we want the depth to be correct too so instead of tipping the head I despise tipping the head we're just going to do it in a V block like this and and that's how I did these two here okay and then we just come in sorry about that we just come in from the side and that's actually a 90-degree angle in this attitude here so the trick is since we're you know we're moving in in X and Z is to get the the theoretical intersection of the of that cut in the right spot so that's what we're gonna show you all right that's what I'm gonna show you how to do so first off I want to lock this down in the vise just so it doesn't move around on me and I like using these old-school parallel clamps for that so for those of you that haven't used these before they're actually pretty nice and so when you're opening and closing them you use you hold onto both levers or both knobs at the same time then you get it so just fits and then to do the tightening you just use the rear one here or the one farthest from the jaw and that does the business there and you got good leverage against that it's to the side here so you just get it to just slip on and then snug that that rear one and that tips it just a little bit and then that suckers in there good so okay alright we've got a carbide end mill here and it has a corner radius on it which further complicates what we have to do but it's it's not that big of a deal and I've got some layout lines on here and these kind of guide us in the roughing stage and when we get a little bit closer we'll start taking measurements and then we'll make adjustments with the with the Z and with the X to think to get the groove in the right place let's select it all right and I'm gonna start making some cuts like it's it these scribe lines guide are our initial cutting so that we're in the kind of the right spot [Music] so you can see that cut there is is fairly high so we're gonna just Nick in a little bit that'll probably work liquid love on there okay so you can see you can see our scribe Leonor upper scribe line and our lower scribe line now these are put in with a height gauge and so they're reasonably accurate so we're pretty cool we've got a little bit left on the bottom one and we got a little bit left on the top one so we're gonna sneak in a little bit more I'm going to move in on X since it appears that the gap between the cut and the line is smaller on this side than it is on this side so I'm going to move in in this direction okay a little bit and get that centered up and then we'll take a proper measurement with a pen and some micrometers so further adieu pretty good [Music] we're gonna measure the position of our groove and we're gonna use a gauge pin of a known diameter okay and we're just going to set that in there and we're lucky kind of stays so I'm gonna take a dimension over the pin and over the Block in there I got a groove on the other side so I gotta be a little bit careful here that I get I get a good doesn't feel good I gotta catch the pin and not fall into the groove on the other side all right so you got one inch 6:05 and in that that's right and then what I want to do is I want to measure from this surface down to the down to the the pin and I want to clamp it in this case cuz I'm a klutz and when I drop the pin anymore and what I'm gonna use for that is I have a it's a depth mic okay but this is this is a blade depth mic and so if you gotta buy a depth mic and you haven't bought one yet get a blade depth mic and there's a couple of reasons one is you can measure the same stuff that you can with a regular round anvil depth mic but with a blade you can get down into a slot or a groove and then here's here's the most important part is when I rotate the thimble here you see it's extending okay but it's not rotating okay now this is a big deal depth mics are actually kind of hard to read accurately and consistently and what helps is if you don't have a rotating spindle the rotating spindle tends to wiggle the bass around and so if you have a non rotating spindle it helps a lot so I'm gonna do this left-handed hold it with it turn it so that that's pretty good we get up there 25 plus 14 that's 130 for 134 okay so you're right that number down pause 1 3 4 all right so now I got a little bit of math to do to figure out where that pin is in relation to where it's supposed to be and then I can actually drop down and move over to correct them out and and get that right where I want it so I was over there doing the the math to figure out the the position here and I kind of discovered something kind of interesting in that for the size of this particular groove the way it is right now it's this pin is actually a little bit too big it's sitting on the it's sitting on the corners it's sitting on the corners as opposed to the flats it's not actually engaging the flats right now which when you take measurements based on that it gives you kind of erroneous numbers and kind of messes with your game a little bit okay you know and what I was doing is I was just laying this out in in a drafting program so that I could just pluck the numbers off of the you know off of the the drafting program which is simple you know it's a graphical interface and you can kind of see what's going on really easily and you can pull dimensions from corners and surfaces that you can access so after that discovery what I want to do is is I'm going to take some measurements with us a smaller pin that definitely is engaging the groove in a tangent way which is what we want so we're going to take a new set of dimensions make sure you got it on there right 31 and then you know do this you are depth-gauge again back that off and do the old left-handed what you Mitch what you majiggy so was six eight five okay so now let's go plug those into our let's go plug those into our CAD layout and and see what was actually happening with this pin is it's actually kind of interesting and it gets exposed when you when you have actually a graphical layout of this thing that that you can use okay so here's the here's the layout of this thing and this is this interesting thing that I mentioned over on the mill these are the grooves that we're doing and I'm just gonna scoot over and we'll zoom in on that a little bit so you guys can see it so there's our quarter inch pin and it's tangent to our little groove right there and that's where I came up with the numbers that that I wanted to try to hit based on the size of the of the block and the diameter of the pin okay now let's zoom in on the pin a little bit here okay and what you see here is that circle of the pin is tangent with that line right there okay and now when that grooves a little shallower though we run into a little bit of a problem so let's draw a line from the team the that intersection and that's the tangent point it's picking up it's picking up the tangent point and then we're just going to draw it to the center of the circle okay so you can see there that there's not a lot of room actually where that thing is is sitting properly and tangents so this pin is a little bit big in diameter in particular when when our our little notch is a little bit smaller okay so let's let's see so there's me I've set up another another another scenario there so let's do this let's copy this whole mess here and we're gonna scoot it over here all right now let's blow this away let's blow that away and let's blow this away okay and let's see what do we get say let's rotate this whole mess and I'm just gonna - 45 okay so now it's kind of oriented the way the way we're working on it okay so let's let's zoom in on that little that little sucker right there now so we took some measurements to this to this smaller pin okay so what what we're gonna do is we're gonna actually you know what let's meet back up there I'm gonna I'm gonna place the quarter inch pin all right in to the dimensions that we measured the quarter inch pin - so what I'm gonna do is I'm going to do a little offset and that number is let's see point one three four and so I'm gonna offset this this is the surface we're measuring from all right and then I'm going to offset this other surface that we were measuring from offset one point six oh five all right so all I'm doing here guys is saving myself some math all right all right so there we go and now what I'm gonna do is I'm going to draw an intersection I'm just gonna fill up those with a zero fill it all right like that and I'm going to draw our pin in position now all right now I want a special kind of a circle called a tangent tangent radius all right and I'm gonna grab that tangent I'm gonna grab that tangent and then our radius is point one two five pink circle okay so now this is this is where we've actually measured the circle okay and now you can see this is looking a little suspicious here isn't it all right so if we draw a line from the center of the circle over oh oh we're we're not even on the on the the cut yet all right so what that means that means that that pin is actually sitting funny and we're measuring it kind of out of position so the only way that you would kind of pick this up is by doing this in in a drafting program okay yeah you could you could do the theoretical math right but it wouldn't expose where these tangent points are okay and so you could get tripped up doing this purely mathematically I think all right so if we let's just take a measurement from the quadrant of that circle right there to that little line all right and it's saying nine thousandths and then we're gonna take another dimension from the quadrant of that to there and it says 24,000 okay this is 9 and 24 but I don't believe that that we've we have the the quarter inch pin in the right spot it's it's in a funny place all right and let's see if we can figure out where that pin is in relation to our groove all right so let's take a look at let's take a look at the 187 pin case here okay let's zoom in on that so you guys can see real well here so this is with a 187 pin case and what I've done is I position it to the dimensions that we that we took with the smaller pin okay and now this is you know it's an abbreviated thing so we it's the distance from the back that we measured with the micrometer and it's a distance from this surface to the top of the pin that we measured with the depth micrometer okay so mainly you know I just kind of had this layout already set up so if we zoom in a little bit more here what I did was I ahead in this red line right here that I'm highlighting okay that's the actual surface the cut surface that we have over there right now okay and so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna I'm gonna borrow that surface cuz it's all in relation to the size of the piece here actually you know what no what I need to do is let's let's set up another instance of this this is easy here you can just copy this stuff all day long here so let's just drop another one down there and let's see let's get rid of that let's get rid of that all right and it's kind of clean it up a little bit okay now keep in mind that this is our quarter inch pin here all right that's our quarter inch pin and don't sweat the jaggedy that's just a figment of the video card I'm just gonna hit regenerate here and then it sharpens it up okay so let's go back over to this guy and what I'm going to do is I'm going to I'm gonna make a copy of this the real surface or the surface that we have right now I copy that and then the I'm gonna grab that corner as my to relate that to the other piece so see I got a piece now that I can then I can whip around so let's let's scrunch your way over here okay and then I'm gonna use that same corner to reference this new piece here I think okay and now you can you can kind of see we got a little problem here right so this is that surface that we measured in using the 187 pin but you see here we've got a false we've got a false measurement where the quarter-inch pin is and that's because it's it's resting on these corners right here so it's actually pivoting on those corners and not sitting a tangent so this is kind you know this is a subtlety guy so it's just something that's interesting to me too you know and using this tool to analyze the problem which is really kind of fun part here alright so let's uh let's see where that pin really is okay in space alright so just to get rid of some lines here let's get rid of that I'm gonna need a dimension you guys know what it is okay so what we have going on and is the red line is our actual surface so let's just make it our our actual surface here okay so that's there's where we are and this is where we want to be but we're not there yet so let's just kill that all right we're gonna get rid of that so it doesn't confuse this here but you can see as i zoom in on that a little bit we got a little bit of a problem because we know that that pin which is this circle here it can't rest in board of that surface so it's actually sitting on that corner right there so let's let's put it there all right so how do we how do we put that there it's kind of a weird little operation right well it's actually not too bad because we know that the pin is sitting on this corner as well right all right so let's just do let's just do it really simply here what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna get in real close so you guys can see it because this is this is fun stuff okay and this is why it's really nice to learn a CAD program and just pick one and start learning it okay so we're going to draw a line and I'm gonna go straight up okay and now what I can do is I'm going to I'm gonna move I'm gonna move our pin from there and have it sit on that corner okay so now that pin is sitting on that little intersection right there of our cut surface and our our surface of the block alright okay now you can still as we go over here and look we still got a problem here so now what we need to do is rotate that pin we need to rotate that on that corner until it's just touching that corner so how do we do that well an easy way to do that is I'm going to draw another circle and from this point right here all right and I'm gonna draw it to intersect right through there all right so now that's the path that's the path that this that this pin is gonna move in all right so we want what we want to do is we want to move it from from that little spot right there to that little spot right there so now we just do a little rotation okay let's see if I get that all right so we're going to rotate and this is the thing we're gonna rotate all right in the center it's gonna be the center of that circle okay and it's asking me for a reference and my reference is the center of this circle to that point and then my new reference is that point okay now let's get rid of some of this garbage so we can see here all right let's get rid of that little piece right there okay so now I actually looks like we're sitting pretty good so we're sitting on that corner and then I can zoom into the cows come home and it's still sitting on that corner okay come up to this corner here and it's just touching that corner okay so that's where that pin really is and you can see here that if we draw a line from the center of this that's where it would end up being tangent and we're nowhere near that all right so anyways this kind of an interesting site excursion there to just show some graphical analysis right this would this is totally doable with mathematics okay but keeping track of where you are in space by just looking at numbers for us machinist types is sometimes a little bit tricky it's more helpful to you know orient the part the way it is in the machine and then you know we can pull off references from different different areas and it makes sense to us in context to what we're doing in the mission okay so we're gonna switch over to that other pin and and continue on here because now we get some dimensions we know we need to go x11 and z22 and that puts our slot pretty much in the right spot so sorry if this was boring for non CAD people but I think it's relevant for people that want to learn and get better at their craft because this is just a tool like a in mill or a screwdriver okay alright so we got our new numbers that we extracted via the CAD program based on our our smaller diameter pin so we're gonna we're going to move over a good portion of that those numbers but not all of it and loops too much let's do 20 on that okay and then you know we're gonna take a final measurement and then we'll take a we'll take a look at it all right let's the measurement there 184 3s I'm like that well but mm ow and let's get it as you meet this way okay so we're actually 1545 since that's like right on right there so is actually you know it's kind of weird when you have to turn something with the it's like brushing your teeth with the with the wrong hand it's it feels weird okay so that's pretty much right on that's on our target no just good or what did they say mm off of our other one um all right so let's see what does that mean that means let's just go down one let's see what we get all right that's probably good here eighty-three that's one that live so I'm not gonna worry about that you know the exterior this block is gonna get ground after heat treat anyway so this is mainly kind of an illustration on how you can position grooves pretty accurately so but that's kind of gonna be out the window a little bit will mean ouch when we do some grinding on this try something a little different here just put this over here squeeze yeah I think that's better here now I can use my my proper hand right all right so it's a little bit under so 45 minus my half our summer a couple of tents I'm I'm not doing anymore that's it I'm leaving it and I'm gonna zero these two axes now just for fun because I got one more groove to do and I'm not gonna show that on camera cuz we got some grooving to do on this on the surface grinder which is kind of fun so we're gonna shoot to that next alright so yeah let me get set up here to cut grooves on this and for those of you that soldiered through all the all the CAD work you probably noticed that there's a bunch of grooves from the surface down like that and that's stock on the cej platen and the idea is that you know when you're sliding a sample around on here any dust or anything drops into the grooves and the edges of those the edges of those channels are very very kind of crisp and sharp so they just knock anything off and that's on this and it drops into the groove so that's kind of the idea of serrated platanus so what we got here is we have a cutting disc okay and this is this aluminum oxide it's a 60 grit and it's a 35 wide so a little less than a millimeter thick so it's you know you can probably see it wiggle in there a little bit so that's the reason for these large diameter flanges here is to support it out as far as you can now these are surprisingly durable and you know you're guiding it on the machine so if you don't get hairball with the thing you know the they work great actually so so what I'm going to do is I'll fire it up and I'm going to dress the edge a little bit I'm going to use a Norton nor bide stick and this is a it's on the tip of my tongue I can't think of it anyway it's a goddamn Tom what is what is this material all right I'm sorry I just can't think of what this is it's a boron nitride but it's a different yeah okay anyway anyway nor by looking up I'm sorry anyway we're just gonna dress it by hand here just to kind of open up the abrasive a little bit and good anyway open it up a little bit and then we'll touch off and we'll pick up our edge and we're going to you know what I'm just gonna start doing it here [Music] I'm going to pick up the side first and this is this going to be an audible pickup right there from make a mark my trusty here so what I want to I want to dial out the half of the the blade thickness first okay so we're gonna dial in our offset for our first cut which is 90,000 off of this edge okay all right and then what we want to do all we want to do is pick up the surface to that [Music] ginger away so you got to kind of scrub over the whole surface because there may be some some high spots okay looks like it's just kissing down right there if okay well there's a good pick up there and now we're gonna set up our coolant because with with this guy here coolant is mandatory okay so don't even don't even try it without cooling okay big already here you go in there all right so now we're going to dial in so we're gonna do this in two shots 25,000 deeply shot all right and then we're just gonna we're just gonna creep these this use a little bit of break action here you see it this Dyson right through there like cream pea now the feed directions important on this you don't want to you don't want to climb cut doing this okay thank you and it's surprising how a little we're on the diameter you get doing this okay I'm always shocked at how little it is alright there's 25,000 right there like you know I did lose some diameter on the wheel so I had to go back through it a couple of times to to get them all evened up not a fussy dimension you just wanted to kind of visually look alike otherwise you look like a bozo right so I'm gonna clean off the die come here and dress it up a little bit and then this is gonna go in a shipping box to mr. Robin Renzetti who's who I am working with on some heat treating stuff so anyway we'll see that again shortly this thing off yeah look at all the the goobie the goobies on there alright so there's the the grooved platen I'm gonna leave the other side plane and and we'll lap that and make it a ringabel surface and and so will this but this will have grooves in it so there it is [Music] you [Music]

Channel: oxtoolco

Views: 37,969

Rating: 4.9227467 out of 5

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Id: bb3MSBlYAp0

Length: 42min 18sec (2538 seconds)

Published: Sun Nov 05 2017