Simforge MARK-1 Pedals Review

[Music] uh welcome to another edition of the simracing garage i'm barry rowland in this episode we'll be reviewing the new mark 1 pedal set from the guys at sim forge at first glance this pedal set seems to be almost too good to be true with full-sized pedals constructed from three millimeter carbon steel a brake pedal with a big 80 kilogram load cell contactless hall sensors on the clutch in the throttle and an occluded beefy looking pedal base at the price of 330 dollars plus shipping time to put it through the srg's review process and see how they do so let's get to it let's take a closer look at the sim forge mark 1 pedals first out of the box this feels like a pedal set that should cost more than 333 dollars i'll tell you that right up front just because of the build quality that goes into these these are made of carbon steel it's all three millimeter thick plate everywhere you look and of course it has a very nice black powder coat finish to it there are no sharp edges anywhere i could detect which sometimes you'll see that in the lower entry price level kind of equipment that we get here at the srg just yeah it just looks very well done here right out of the box we'll go over a little bit of the features here now this is the clutch and what a plastic collector plus pretty much to the throttle except for the mechanism here so first off we have face plates on here or pedal pads what do you want to call them that are completely adjustable you notice how each one of these holes has a countersunk bevel on it so that you can move this anywhere in these holes now you are limited by the spacing of the two bolts here and you can see on the back where they bolt to the lever it has a reinforcing plate back here that goes into the side of the levers typical the construction we see in this kind of constructed pedal so yeah nice that they did that a lot of time manufacturers just put them up here and yeah you can't move them around which is kind of a shame but here we can do up and down not only with the holes but we have some slots back here to use that for up and down and we'll go over the adjustments when we get there but it's well thought out is my point here yeah just everything looks well done here they have on the lever itself let me get the throttle for that it's a little easier to manipulate the throttle the two pieces of metal here that form the lever have a little hook in the front of them see a little hook there oh that's showing up a little there it is see that hook on the bottom here so this piece right here is the hook i'm talking about it's got this piece of it's not it's like a plastic it is a little bit you can press a little bit on it but it's a damper in there so when the lever snaps back there is no noise very nice they also have a sound damper in there which looks to be like some fuel hose in there pretty nice so when we go back you can hear that but you'll never hear that when you're actually using the pedal itself i imagine the pieces in here are some 3d printed which i believe is pla and that piece right here is holding a magnet because these actually have hall sensors in them for these pedals no potentiometers in these pedals pretty neat i'll show you the let's see let's look at it this way first you can see the circuit board again this is their own proprietary design for their hall sensor and the hall center obviously is solder to the board where's the whole sensor i'm going wrong way there there it is so that's where our hall center is now you can see well maybe you can't see it give you a better angle of it there's our magnet so our magnet's sticking down in here and that's part of that piece that i was just talking about right so when we push this down that magnet gets closer to there we go the sensor so it's detecting the magnetic field of the magnet that's how this is working very cool design i think not only that but if you look here you can see that this circuit board is held on with these two bolts here there's a better look at it there we go these bolts here right so there is a slot next to them and these are also sitting in a slot the reason i'm pointing that out is you can move this circuit board up and down you can't see it from here and that's why i want to point it out you can see the other slot right there but you can actually move it because it's in that slot up and down now what that does is it changes the relative position of the actual sensor in here to the magnet itself as it comes down see if i can get enough angle here you guys can see now remember the magnet is up in there that piece right there and you can see the sensor right there i'm going to bring the lever down and you can see the magnet let's do it this way all right so it might not be easy to see from this angle but the magnet is actually behind the sensor a bit in relation to where that sensor is when it comes down so what that means is i can adjust the sensitivity of this action by taking this board loosening these bolts and sliding it back towards the magnet this way so as it gets closer to the magnet when the magnet comes down then there's more magnetic field for it to sense which makes it i think there's another angle over there for you so yeah then we'll be able to adjust that if we want it to be more sensitive so it's cool there's actually an adjustment for that i would never have seen that if they didn't point it out because i would think yeah this is already set at the factory and you don't want to mess with that stuff so that's how the hall sensors are working on the back here again we'll see some plastic bits here are actually 3d printed pla bits here that are holding some standoffs right some separators air spreaders and this is another part of the circuit board in here that's really the breakout board that is letting this rj45 port be mounted to it and we'll be plugging obviously a cable into this port and going over to our main controller electronics we'll see in a minute we have a spring in here as far as adjustments go and we'll go over the adjustments in more detail we can adjust the stops here you can see the slot there we also have angle adjustments down here and by the way all these bolts in here and nuts all stainless steel so nothing's going to rust on you we have obviously a rod end up front here taking care of the duties of keeping things from binding up we have a bronze inserts everywhere there's a pivot point you see the bronze inserts here there and there and we also have them back here on the little bar that moves when we actually action the throttle pedal and the same thing goes exactly the same thing except the it's a little different than the way this one works because it's a clutch pedal so when i push this one down this swing arm will actually come up careful there so as it comes up it gives you that pressure plate feel the springs that are in a pressure plate in a clutch pack as you push through those springs and then it doesn't take much tension at all to hold it there as soon as you let off a little bit it'll kick back so i think just to see what this feels like once i get it in there and you can see there are some holes in here that are going to allow us to adjust that clutch too so as we adjust it in these holes notice we can just put these bolts in a higher one or a lower one it's going to change the feel and we also have a preload bolt here or nut just like on the throttle that we can pre-load the spring itself and of course we have the slots here so the higher we go in this slot the harder it's going to be to push the pedals and that goes with the throttle also but again we'll get to the adjustments in another segment rather and we have flanges here obviously for mounting right here we're going to be mounting to that base plate back there that comes with the kit for dollars pretty crazy right so that's all you need to see on this let's look at the brake pedal real quick all this stuff is a very hefty and heavy duty feeling when you take it out of the box especially the brake pedal this thing is five pounds and five ounces when you pick it up so that's what two and a half kilograms somewhere around there it's very hefty when you get it in it's got a big fat pedal face on it whereas we can see the throttle has a nice face on it too with the kick out so you can do your heel and toe and the clutch it's just a regular flat plate like this so they're all a little bit different three different pedal plates too so again this has got the same features we can move this around but it's a nice big fat flat surface that we can put our foot on that yes going to get the job done now we're using bumpers here there's our load cell down the bottom i'm just going to action it real quick here if i can keep it action a little bit so we have a spring in the system in the stack when it comes to the factory that gives us a little bit of that that that pre-push if you will before it starts engaging the polyurethane bumpers in here and in that stack it has this cool they got this little board we'll talk about in a second attached here this has some sleeves on it these are deep sleeves that are holding these bumpers and the bumpers they're pretty deep because this is the length of the bumper so we hold it up there you can see how deep this bumper goes in there now of course what those do is when we're compressing these bumpers it only allows them to spread out so much so they don't keep spreading out and spreading out and keep getting it doesn't feel as good as regulating the pressure with the sleeves on here like this regular stacks with washers in it allow it to swell which actually gives you a different feel than when you're pushing on a bumper and it swells up and then stops and it can't swell up anymore now of course you get to the same point if you have washers but it has a mushiness to the feel i think compared to this kind of construction it's very cool to see this in a pedal set at this price point is again i'm pretty amazed at what i'm seeing here let's see what's we can talk about here they have a single rod here a long shoulder pretty much a solid rod until we get up here to the right end where it goes into the rod end we have a nut up there and we'll be pulling this out when we change our bumpers for a different feel as far as the brake goes so again we'll get to that in adjustment segment so here we have a slot here that we can adjust up and down again for different tensions right now it's in the hardest position to push and of course we have a load cell in here this is an 80 kilogram load cell first time i've seen this constructed this way we have the load cell actually has a load-bearing part of this assembly we have all this on the back here attached to the load ceiling of course the load cell is going to flex and do what it does send the information to the little load cell amplifier circuit over here first time i've seen a construction quite like this unique i would say one of the reasons i keep doing these reviews is i enjoy looking at different design aspects or the way that designers come up with different ways to use a load cell now we'll go ahead and take a quick look at the circuit board here this is their own proprietary design and it's the circuit board sandwiched between two pieces again of this abs 3d print we have an rj45 port on there just like the rest of the pedals and if you look in here i don't know how are you going to see this we have a sensitivity and an offset potentiometer see these white things up here those are potentiometers i'm trying to show you and hold the break at the same time so these are little set potentiometers so we have one for sensitivity and we have one for offset so i wouldn't mess with that i'm sure it's set at the factory and no reason to mess with those right but this is the amplifier circuit that's going to go into the other board i'll show you in a minute that will do the usb conversion for everything and it's a 16-bit resolution for the whole set of pedals which is very good all right anything else in the brake no pretty much everything's the same as far as the rest of the pedals when it comes to that now let's talk about that board this is an adreno board setup from sim forge and you can see it's very nicely done here it's got some plexiglas it is floating in the air so it's not going to do much as far as emi mitigation and that's always a pet peeve with me here at the srg i like to see these kind of things in solid enclosures metal enclosures are best to try to mitigate any emi that you might run into but again at the price point this pedal set comes in i'm not really expecting that kind of stuff this is the 16-bit adreno board that's on here and yeah all custom stuff in fact on the back i don't know how are you guys going to read this but it says here it says simforge and then it says it has the if you no longer go for the gap that exists you are no longer a race driver where does it live about right gotta send it man all right so other than that pretty simple here how as far as mounting goes on this yeah that's something you're just gonna have to figure out where you're gonna put this because i don't see any specific place to mount it or holes to mount it maybe to the pedal base back here i'll figure something out to get it mounted though right so let's go ahead and put that away now they also give you this right here this is a ground wire and it's prefab so they've got the terminations on there for you so that you can put it in fact this came with a wire attached between this standoff these aluminum standoffs on both sides between the aluminum standoff and the board in here like that so it was actually attached right in there i took it out just for showing on the video no i said have it there if i didn't need it right away so this allows you to at least have a grounding point if you do run into emi issues and will help cure that now the bumpers themselves you get we get a whole set here you've already saw that we have a red and yellow in the break so we have another red and yellow so we can go two yellows or two reds we have two blacks in case we want to go to blacks and we'll get to the durometers or rather the shore ratings on these once i get to the brake pedal and we get a closer look now this little guy here is intended to take the place of the pre-tensioning spring up here so if you don't like that feel on your brake pedal then you can go ahead and take this bumper and stick it in there and take a spring out obviously there you go so it seems like we're gonna have a lot of adjustment there we have some cables that they give with the kit go put these back over here get these out of the way and you get these grey cables these are cat6 cables and professionally finished they have a i would say this is about not quite a meter long but you don't need them too long because we're only connecting between the pedals themselves and the board over here so wherever you put this is really going to dictate how long a cable you're going to need so we get three of these and we get a white cable down here also which is the usb cable goes out of the way and this has of course the usb termination on it and has a usba and this is a yeah this is the cat6 let's see what this is that doesn't say it just says 28 but it's not shielded so this is not a shielded usb deal here okay but we do have ferrite cores on it it's always a good thing now we're going to take a look at the pedal base that comes with the kit this is not an accessory you find the kit or you buy your pedals and this comes with it and you can see it's made out of profile i've got things loose that's why you might hear some rattling going on we have 40 40 series right here attached with two corner brackets and we have a 40 120 series on the back here now this is 360 millimeters wide i already measured that part so that's the width we get for adjustability on the pedal width which should be good i think now on the side here you'll notice there's some brackets and these brackets you can move them around you can see we have some holes here and you can move these brackets around to change where the position is of this not only from here but also in the holes themselves you had a lot of adjustability here for angle that's why i have it loose right now so it'll do that and it's curious the way they've done this bracket on the front this one obviously is not meant to do too much because it has these flanges on it let me show you that looks like the flange there to keep it from tilting and the other one's made for tilting so i think there's enough room in here to do whatever you want to get the angle you want it's got the nice cut out there saying stem forge again a red powder coated steel plate up here again all the edges are nicely done no sharp edges anywhere so yeah the heel plate's pretty nice and of course the pedals are going to fit on this heel plate like this just use a throttle and so we put a bolt in here and in here and then of course we'll set them where we want we should have plenty of room to slide this around you guys get out of my way in fact if i put the throttle on i'll take the brake pedal put it on and then we'll put the clutch on so i think you got a lot of room let's put the clutch at the extreme over there and i'll put the throttle at the stream over here and then yeah i think we got plenty of room here to be moving this brake pedal around so if you're doing a left foot braking you might want your brake pedal further over here or if you're doing heel and toe you might want it over here so again very easy to adjust with the kind of fasteners they put on this kit i'm gonna take these back off i'm not gonna try to remove that base with all those on there because you know what's gonna happen if i do that all right so we have some hardware for this first off let's show you these you get four of these corner brackets gusseted corner brackets and what they're for is attaching this base plate to whatever you're going to attach it to my case it's going to be some 40 series profiles and you can see we've got some inserts in here see those so they press some inserts in these are m8 threads and we'll be attaching our corner brackets like this and then of course we have that bottom slot in there to attach to whatever you want to attach it to and we'll put two on each side and that's how it's designed to be attached now you don't have to do it that way because it's profile we have options right you could actually put these back here if you need to or one of them or something like that if you have some kind of a stability issue so i really like that they're using the profile here just because of all the things that we can do and also the adjustment of the heel plate here can do a lot more than if we had some kind of a fixed system i really like it when manufacturing goes with profile it's not the prettiest thing in the world i agree with that all right but it doesn't have the styling cues of some other things but i'll tell you what it's very very functional and you just can't go wrong with it if that's what you want the most adjustability will be in profile now in the box they also give us some bolts here they give us the m8 bolts and those are for the corner brackets that go on here nicely included those button head units looks to be probably more i think that's a five mil head on that and we also have these m6 let's go ahead and grab one's already done m6 bolt all again all this is stainless steel not sure about the t-nut itself perhaps but it has that type of t-nut on it now these t-nuts i kind of like these because you can actually put these pre-load stuff on these and just set the hole whatever it is set it into the channel and then as you tighten this up this will turn and then lock against the sides of the channel these have these little radiuses on them see those oh well you're going to see that you know against my black shirt a little bit anyway we've got a little radius on this side compared to it's much straighter on the other side and the reason is because when we tighten this up it will rotate this way into the channel and these bevels or radiuses will engage the size of the channels i kind of like these now they're not the perfect t-nut set up it depends on your situation obviously but for this it is going to be perfect so it's nice that they included all this hardware it's going to mount right into our channels here so yeah they really got this thought out i think anything else we want to talk about here on the closer look i don't think so i think it's all been said so they've done a real good job on these pedals as far as you know the price point coming at 333 dollars it's certainly punching above its weight in the presentation and the quality of the materials being used here and of course how they're going to operate under foot is really going to be the determining factor but i got a feeling they're going to do pretty good now we're going to take a look at the adjustments available on this pedal set i'm going to use the throttle for most of this and we'll use the clutch and the brake pedal when we get there to their own specific adjustments so we'll go ahead and push those back a little so first thing is how much pressure it takes to push this pedal right so this is going to be very subjective obviously but this is too easy for me i could tell already because if i'm just pushing it like this yeah it does it's not doing anything so yeah i want it tighter than that now there's a couple of ways that we're going to adjust the pressure or the tension and the first major one is going to be the slot in here which is very common to this these pedals when they're constructed this way we're going to loosen this and we're going to slide it up in the slot to make it harder to push depending on how much effort we want to put on the pedal i'm going to go midway with this now there's a socket head cap that runs all the way through the rod end a couple aluminum spacers and comes out the other side into this nylock not over here and that is a 10 millimeter nut it's a 5 millimeter metric size for the socket head cap so let's go ahead and get this where i want it to be i'm going to go ahead and just squeeze this up usually i just put my fingers underneath the bottom part grab that socket head cap on the top squeeze it together and there you go i'm probably going to want it midway but not all the way but i have it all the way up because i want to show you guys something that's very common it's a characteristic of this type of pedal when it's constructed this way and has that slot in there as i start to tighten this down it will actually want to go down in that slot and kind of hold it up with my thumb a little bit put a little pressure on it but as i turn it clockwise you can see it's walking down so you got to find a way to hold it up to tighten it up in the position you want it i'm going to go midway with this if i can get it back in there way i want it right about there i'm thinking what i'm going to do is take this 10 millimeter wrench that i used on this 10 millimeter nut before and put it on this and i'm gonna if you have somebody help you it's easier to do this but i'm just going to kind of lean it against my stomach here i'm going to get my wrench on here using the box end as i call it and then i'm going to get my hand three of my fingers underneath this rod end going this way and then my pinky knuckle is going to be holding the wrench on like that so this allows me to put pressure this way into my stomach and keep this thing from going anywhere when i'm actually tightening it down with my wrench so that's that's the principle behind it so let's see how well this works so i don't want to move any so i'm going to put some pressure on it pushing it into my stomach as i'm tightening it because i don't want that baby to move and there we go just like that so that was now let's try it yeah it's definitely yeah definitely got some harder pressure to push this pedal all the way back now is that going to be enough might even be too much it's hard to tell on the bench you have to get it under foot really to get it where you want it to be but i think that's where i'm going to want it to be now there's also a fine tune adjustment and that is the preload on the spring back here we also have a 10 millimeter nut here it's nylock and it pushes the spring this way if we tighten it clockwise loosen it counter clockwise it takes pressure off the spring it's going to be easier a way to fine tune the feel of the pedal in general and i'm not going to mess with that right now but again it's a very simple matter of just taking the wrench and turning it whichever way you want loosen is counterclockwise tighten it back up clockwise easy enough and i like the way they they did the springs here there is the capture piece in here that's capturing the springs you see this little sleeve sticking out in the back here well that washer part there also has another piece just like that coming out there too that fits inside that spring so they've done a good job with capturing the springs and retaining the spring so it won't drop anywhere very cool all right so now we've got that done we'll talk about the stop again we have a stop back here but we do not have a stop for adjustment in here the only stop is this plastic piece here it's a steel bar but it's got a plastic bumper piece on the top there you can see it's almost pinching down on it a little bit there so as i pull the throttle back you can see that they come these little pieces there come away from the plastic and i let go they seat back down on it so that's going to keep everything quiet but there's no way to adjust that part of the stop or the return if you will but down here we've got this piece of fuel line hose right here and we have a socket head cap going on this side and on this side there's not a nut on either end which is kind of nice when you want to adjust this now all i have to do is take my wrench and get in here like this loosen this up on one side loosen it up on the other side and then i can freely move it back and forth of course if i had it up here it wouldn't be much pedal throw well it moved on me it wouldn't be much pedal throw if i hit it up there i like a lot of pedal throw so i'm probably i'm just going to move it right back to where it was and leave it there because i know me and yeah i like a lot of throw in the pedal now i'm also going to loosen show you another adjustment here i'm going to loosen these guys on the front and then i'm going to loosen the ones in the back here because now we're going to adjust the angle of the pedal now i like it where it is i've already done that it's kind of straight up if you look at the clutch angle compared to that you see the clutch is laying back a little more so i like the angle it's at right now i've been playing with these things but i want to show you guys the adjustments so what you would do is pretty simple here you just want to loosen these guys on each side here like this like that and then we would pull them out one at a time or two at a time depends on what you want to do but they're independent of each other on these plates each each plate is its own independent piece see so then i can put it anywhere i want to and it came in the second hole up right there and that laid it back a bit i wanted to stand up a little bit so i went to the third hole up and again very subjective stuff here so you put your bolt back in like that and tighten it back up pretty simple i like and you want to make sure you tighten the front up to where your main pivot point is and the bronze bushings are so yeah i like this the way it's very simple and quick to adjust and also i want to point out also there's a spacer here and typically in this type of pedal construction when you're doing this height adjustment there's only one spacer back here there's not another piece here there's another piece which is also holding our electronics segment here so that's also acts to keep this piece here from falling away now it doesn't go crazy on you it stays where it's at because it's connected by this pla piece here so it won't fall so very cool you don't have to worry about it floating around on you so this is very quick to do these adjustments now pedal face itself is a little bit more time consuming but not that bad now we have some slots in the back here so it allows the face of this pedal to go up and down right without doing much it's up loosening these nuts and bolts we have an m6 i believe this might be an m5 bold in here but that is a eight millimeter nut and that doesn't now like nut i believe yeah and there's a washer in there too we have a flat head screw on the top easy enough to get this i have a eight millimeter wrench here and i have a m3 for the front and we simply gonna put that in the back and loosen it up and they are nylock so they don't come loose right away you have to loosen them up before it will come all the way off and i think that's far enough there i'm gonna go ahead and pull this out just to show you this again i like where the pedal is right now as far as the face so i'm not gonna change that so we've got this flathead m6 that looks like an m6 maybe more like an m5 hard to tell unless i put my gauge on it but there's the flathead screw we get a focus here of course that fits nice and flush into these countersunk holes we also have a washer and we've got our nylock nut the eight millimeter piece now if i was going to do some adjustments i would pull the other one out and then put this wherever i want to based on the slots on the back here as far as where i can go in those slots and move it around anywhere i want i'm actually going to take this off so we can see what this i usually take the top off last because of what you're seeing here it's going to fall down into the slots moving the slot now but see how it's rotating yeah that's why i usually do not take the top off first i broke my sequence all right so we got a washer back here too we got to pay attention to i'm just going to kind of pull this off see if i can grab them all at once look at that almost there we go got our washer off the back let's take a look at the plate i just want to look at one of these three millimeter thick steel plates that they're using here with the powder coat and you can see that all these countersunk holes we have here i like the design here where this is kicking out so you can do the heel and toe i actually swing my heel out to do heel and toe i know a lot of people actually roll their foot over to it it really doesn't matter as long as you get it done so there we go and again we can see our slots here depending on how i want to adjust my pedal face and that's obviously going to be very subjective so we've got everything i think the preload easy enough to change that again i like the way they've done the capturing pieces in here oh my you can't really see that inner piece in there because of the lights but i'll try to give you a shot of it inside of this spring here which captures it nice retaining bit in there so everything else is going to be different the clutch really the only thing the clutch difference is going to be this and we'll cover that in the next video and even the brake pedal has the same adjustments on the front you can see this slot in this brake pedal we can go up and down on that too but of course the brake pedal we're gonna have a lot to play with in here so yep that's the let's just call that the throttle adjustment and basic adjustments available to us on this pedal set and we'll get to the clutch next now we're going to adjust the clutch and not the tension on the clutch because we covered that again in the throttle segment it's just another slot there so the higher we go in the slot the harder it is to push what i'm going to be concentrating on is the three holes in the back of the bracket here now i've already moved it up one hole just to get a handle on the best way to go about doing this and you can see right now if i press on this pedal how much angle and how far back this pedal goes for the clustering gauge see how far that goes back now i'm hitting the stop down here at its furthest point back so what we want to do is try to change that action to where see how far back that pedal is going that's too far back i want it to be a little less than that and to do that i can adjust this down and of course adjust my stop down here if i adjust the stop though what happens is go ahead and adjust that put it up front again we're just loosening these bolts here with the five millimeter wrench i'm gonna put that up like halfway then we'll go ahead and snug it back up there we go now when i push it see that but now i'm not getting that clutch pressure plate spring effect that was in it when it was down in the middle hole and we had it all the way back it's stopping me from getting that but i am stopping how far back the pedal goes so i'm going to put it back to where it comes from the factory because i preferred it that way if i want more tension i'll just use my slot here to adjust that let's go ahead and put this all the way back again tighten it up all right now what we're interested in here is getting this is where it gets complicated well it's not complicated just a little it's a little fiddly we've got two bolts here and i like nuts on each side and these are 10 millimeter and we have to take these all the way out to be able to lower down into the next hole see we got two more holes there from the factory it's in the middle i tried it on the bottom and it was the it was a kind of a a weak throw i didn't like it at all i know why they said it the middle because i think middle is the sweet spot for this particular setup but i wanted to move it around show you guys how to change it if you wanted to this is not bad if you want a long pedal travel it'll be fine but i like it yeah i think i'm going to like it better the other way because i've been testing a little bit so anyway i just want to show you guys how to get this out there's a couple things we have to do we have to release the preload tension on the spring obviously you don't want any attention on this stuff and we're going to have to take both of these bolts out there's a couple of washers in there and we have to be mindful of those and we're going to pull the rod in out of the front to make this the easiest thing to do well that's the way i did it's not that bad the right end on the front here is captured by this m6 bolt it's a socket head cap we've got a 10 millimeter nut on the other side so we need to get this out but the first thing i'm going to do is like i said before is relieve the tension on this preset so i'm going to turn this nut counterclockwise until i get it really loose and i know that it's loose so bear with me while i do that should be able to see some space in here it'll start jiggling around a little bit a couple more turns i think we got it there we go see that's pretty loose there maybe one more turn all right so now the spring is pretty loose in here this whole setup right so now what i'm going to do is go ahead and take the rod end out and that is a 5 mil on this side and again another 10 mil on this lilac nut on this side so let's go ahead and do that we do have to pull it all the way out so ratcheting wrench in the right direction here okay so now i got my nut loose i can pull that off and again it's just another 10 mil now lock nut set that aside now there's two spacers in here these are steel spacers i thought they were aluminum but they got stuck on the magnets so i know they're steel now and i'm going to pull those out and go from there okay so once i pull this bolt out these pasters are going to fall i'm going to pull it out only far enough for one spacer to let go that's the idea anyway so let's see if i can catch it i'm pulling the bolt out and there we go we got that spacer picked it out the back end that's what it looks like so now we'll go ahead and pull it the rest of the way out the rod end's going to fall down well it won't fall down because it's being caught by the spring back here i'm going to give you a better look at it that way and we got one more spacer in here i'm going to try to capture that when i take my bolt out so we have our bolt and it's threaded all the way no shoulder on this anywhere i was wondering about that when i put it apart so now we got our parts for that now we have this loose we have this to come loose now that's really loose down here isn't it because the bolt actually fell fell back down over here all right so let me go ahead and loosen up these remember these are 10 millimeter on the outside this is the bolt and we got the nut on the inside in here so that's all i'm going to do is take these out and you'll notice there's a brass washer or bronzer brass washer on either side of this piece of the bracket so i've got one next to the bolt head and i've got one in between there so they're going to fall out that's what i want to point that out to you as you're taking this apart it's just part of the process of getting it come apart i'm going to go ahead and do that now [Music] once we get the knife like a certain length or out a certain way we can take it off with our fingers that's what i'm going to do now it's far enough out i believe so i'm just going to catch that make sure it doesn't fall hopefully it doesn't fall and there's our other knot like nut 10 millimeter piece now the bolt should come out but i'm going to loosen this side first because if you loosen both sides everything gets loose and it's easier to work on it so obviously that's going to be a plus for us trying to struggle with it it's pretty fiddly anyway so yeah i'm going to make it as easy as possible okay if i could hang onto this thing long enough okay i think that's got it so we'll go ahead and pull that nylock nut off the inside and i drop that one another nut now we've got everything loose so i'm going to pull one of these bolts out see how they're kind of sitting there and you can see the washers a little better now down in there i'm going to pull this one out first everything's loose so it's not that hard i'm just gonna kind of pull it it might be if it's brand new and you've never taken it out before it might be a little stiff now this washer is gonna fall out of here so i'm gonna put my finger in there do my best to catch it but i may not be able to there it goes that actually kind of stuck there's a little bit of grease in here so it may have stuck so there's our two washers and they look like they could be bronzer brass maybe brass all right so you don't want to lose those obviously we're gonna do the same thing over here and see if i can get lucky and catch both of the washers without going crazy on me all right here we go got this out here's the washer the whole assembly will come out then here's the other washer all right so now what i'm going to do is put this back in obviously but i'm going to go into the middle hole so let me do that it's the same thing going in as it was going out but it's a little tricky here to get these washers lined up the first side is not too bad i'm gonna put your first washer on your bolt and then i'm gonna kind of because we're not really attached to anything yet i can pick this out and just hold it up there with my finger and stick stick it through i like that well almost like that there we go so now i got them through so it's easier to do it on this side because it's the first side i'll go ahead and put it back in i'm going to the middle hole remember i'll go ahead and push it through now i'll go ahead and get my nut turn this around so you can see what's going on it's all the way through i'll go ahead and get my nut and put that on get it started i just want to make sure that nothing comes apart you want to cross thread it make sure you get it on straight it should go right on there we go now i'm going to go ahead and get the other piece this one gets a little tricky but there is a way to do this easier than you might think how am i going to hold this washer up in between this plate here there's not much clearance in there while i'm getting this and go through all the the plate and the washer yeah so anyway this is what you should do just turn it sideways then we're going to use gravity to help us i'm going to push this washer over where the hole needs to be then i'm going to take my bolt there we go see no problems see how easy that was all right so i'm going to go ahead and put my other nut on like so and i'm going to go ahead and put my rod end down because it's like i said when everything's loose it's easier to work on this stuff so remember we got to get our bolt and everything back in here so the first thing i need is to get my spacer back in here now these spacers are different widths so you want to pay attention when you take it out which one you put in and take out in my case i need the thinner one to go towards that this side over here not this side so i'm gonna go ahead and start my spacer first go ahead and get it in there get my rod in down here get it pushed back so i can get my bolts started through it's not easy for you to see what i'm doing here but that's what i'm doing i just want to get it started in that rod end you see what i was doing i need to get the spacer on the inside not on the outside i thought that was getting that was a little bit too easy right there we go all right i'll get it right eventually so now i'm going to get the rod in down in here we're going to push it back i'm putting pressure towards the back of it so i can get it lined up with my bolt again and you also have to line up the ball in the rod in so like i said it can be a bit fiddly getting this done this is one of the harder parts take pressure off the spring it makes it easier all right so i'm in the rod end now if i get my other spacer in and you can see how my rod and my bolt is just inside the rod in there see that so i still have the space in here so now i'm going to get these guys needle nose pliers to hold my spacer up and try to do this all at once get my spacer in and push the bolt home like this with my finger get everything kind of lined up it should push right through at least enough to hold my spacer and there it is i'm not through this side yet you can see i'm kind of hanging out i'm just going to push back on it line it up there it goes so not too bad if you follow that procedure that's the easiest way i found it dude now we're golden right all we got to do is tighten everything up so i'm going to do is tighten up the front first i don't need that for that so i'll go ahead and get my rod end suction tightened up gotta love these ratcheting wrenches huh makes things a lot easier now also this might be a time where you decide whether you want to go up into the slot or not i kind of like the way it felt but i might change it once again once you have it underfoot on mounted solidly and pushing on it it gives you a totally different feel a lot of times so i'm just going to leave it where it is right now and just go ahead and give it a snug up so now only thing left to do well two things left to do we got to get these guys tight again but not too tight gotta leave them loose enough so we've got plenty of play in this mechanism back here but we also have to do our preload again but that'll be the last thing i do so now i'm just going to go back here and do the same thing in reverse as i did taking them off using my ratcheting inch on this side there we go and i'll capture this over here you can kind of turn them both ways it goes a little faster when you're using this kind of stuff but i'm beating my pedal up today all right so i just it just got tight there so i'm just going to back it off a little bit i want to make sure that again you don't bind it up so we'll go ahead and do the other side my ratcheting wrench two wrenches always get them mixed up i can't get my box in but i'm afraid if i got it on there i would be able to get it off once i was done so i'm just going to do this okay remember the nylocks aren't going to back off so we don't have to get this thing super tight i want to make sure i can move it like that i want it bound up because if it's binding it's not going to work all right so everything looks good last thing i got to do is get back to my preload here and if you get it real loose i'm going to make sure you line up these retainer rings pieces here these plastic pieces make sure the ring is seated properly in this suction right here just pay attention to that you get it all tightened to where you want it and it's crooked it's not going to do any good i'm not going to put a lot of tension on this i'm just going to give it and you can feel the tension as you're tightening it getting harder i think that's good now after all that work let's see what we got yeah it feels different now it's still going pretty far back but i don't know if you can tell there's still more room now in between this section though than there was before when i was doing it when it was in the very top again you could stop it a little bit sooner if you want but to get the full stroke out of it and to feel it feel that spring pressure piece you have to leave it like this and i'm going to leave it like this if i want more stiffness again we can always raise it up there so there you have it that is the clutch pedal adjustments and at least the way i do it it can be a little fiddly but certainly is doable so there you go so now we're going to go over the adjustments of the brake pedal as far as how it feels under foot and that would be the adjustment on these bumpers and we have a spring in here also now i'm going to show you how this works as far as how the mechanism for tightening and pre-loading this stack now we have a long bolt here essentially it has a very long shoulder on it it goes it's smooth all the way up to where this nut is so that allows obviously things to move smoothly over this smooth part when we're pushing it now this is a preload also so i can actually turn this in clockwise and when i do that this nut is not moving anywhere what's happening is these threads are going into the rod end now there's a little bit of space in this rod end left over where i can actually turn it in a little bit and as i do that it loosens the stack up itself i'm going to bottom out here there it is that's the bottom mount so you can see i already had a lot of thread in this rod end because it only went in that far i can pull it back out this way or i can push it back in and what that does right now when i pushed it in clockwise and went into the rod end it actually moves this whole assembly forward off this back plate here so it makes things looser what i mean by that you can see see how loose this is and this one over here now if i put it down and press on it back and forth there's a little bit of play in there not much a little bit so i could again counterclockwise that means i'm screwing out this bolt from the rod end again and that's going to put compression it's going to press everything back up against this plate where our spacer is down there and you can just turn it by hand if you want to you can get a wrench six mil that's what this bolt is six millimeter and as i tighten this down i can feel it getting tighter now when i try to move the cup it doesn't move i just want to get you to understand that first before we get into actually taking this thing apart and putting some bumpers in here so that's what we're going to do now is a bit of a process but yeah it doesn't bother me so much it just takes a little bit of time to get this done now i'm all the way out as far as i can go by hand to compress this stack so what i want to do is i want to start taking this nut and loosening it towards the rod end so i'm taking the pressure off the stack by loosening this nylock nut now you can you're going to have to hold this bolt back here when you do it because it just obviously it all turns together see how the nuts turning with it so you have to have a way to hold that you can use a wrench here and just do this if you want and i'm going to keep running this nut up towards that rod end like this and as i do that obviously my stack is going to get loose too but what i'm really trying to do is get room to get the fault out of that rod end because it's so far in there i'm gonna have to screw it out to get this off so you sit here with your wrench and do this or if you have one of these i'm going the right way here wrong way that's the right way i'm going to go ahead and use my little ratchet gun here to help speed things up a little bit there it goes see how it came out of the rod in now the rod is loose and i have my stack almost loose so all i have to do now is get this nut all the way off of this bolt and my stack will come apart so it being nylock and i still have you can see how much thread i still have and this is also a good time to look at this and see how much thread i would actually run it down a little more yeah i would put this down a little bit more so i have more thread to get started in the rod end when it's time to go back together but we're gonna have to take this completely off but it gives you a reference of where your threads need to be protruding without be protruding too far that you can't get this rod in back on right so take note of that when you're taking this apart so now i'm going to go ahead and take it the rest of the way off this little nut here i'll use my power thing again there we go so there's that nylock nut pretty simple here with how this is working but when you first look at it and try to take it apart and it can be a little bit confusing the way this is done so now my stack is loose i can actually start pulling things off of it remember this pedal is going to want to get in the way too what i'm going to really do i think the best way to do this is put your hand under this part of the stack not this part and i'm going to pull this rod back through that stack and as i do that obviously it's going to drop in my hand up to the rubber bumper so i'm just going to pull it up to that so everything gets loose besides that so it doesn't fall off there we go and this is going to probably tilt down a little bit there it goes so there's our little sockets here our capture pieces and you can see how hollow those are they're pretty big actually compared to the diameter of our bumper so if you see the bumper sitting in there it's got a lot of room to move around or to swell up as we compress it but i like it that it's deep like that i like this design we have this washer that goes in between the bumpers that sits like this and this and this so you make sure you get that right when you put it back together we have to have this washer in between them and you can see there's some grease on there so you might want to put some like some silicone grease or something on them when you redo or if you put some in that you haven't had in yet all right let's go ahead and put these over here now if you were just going to change these bumpers this is as far as you need to go if i wanted to like take the yellow one and replace it with a red one then i would just stop right here do that and put it all back together what i'm going to do is take this piece off and this is a small bumper here this is going to make you when you have this in this pedal can be very very stiff if that's what you want that's fine i like to have a little bit of play in the first application of the pedal as i'm starting to press on it like in most real hydraulic systems you have that little bit of play in it so i'm going to take this out now it came from the factory with this spring in here that they provide so we're going to take the red one put it on the side there and the spring is the same length as that red bumper and you see we have these nice plastic pieces here that capture the spring and fits in the screen the spring hole so the spring's not flopping around very nicely done little details like this matter so now what i'm going to do is put the spring on to the bit of thread that's sticking out and i'll push that through there like that and i'm going to stay with the yellow and the red let's just see how that works let me change that later i'm just going to stay with it map for now so i'm going to get my pedal back out of the way and then just do the reverse of what we just did start threading it on and i'll take the washer get that on keep pushing the rod through the stack and i can start my red stack piece here with its cup and go ahead and push that through and there we have it i'm through all the way so now i'm going to put our nut back on and i'm going to tighten that down to where i have some threads exposed remember we got to have some threads exposed or we'll never get it back in the rod end trying to do it without that but you don't have to have much thread exposed i'm going to do is go ahead and tighten that up a little ratchet gun out here going the right way harder to do this one-handed barry see how easy that is sometimes i can do it with one hand though all right so i'm just going to tighten it up so i get some threads up here i'm looking down there we go that should do it i'll show you what i got here so there's a little bit of thread sticking out so now i want to get my rod end started again so i'm going to kind of swivel it out and this has got the spring on it so this is going to be a little tougher to do than the the bumper because of the way the spring is i'm going to pull this all the way back as far as i can and this is going to be a little bit more fiddly to get it in there so we got to put some pressure compression there we go now i've got it lined up as you can see it's kind of shaking around a little bit when i'm doing this moving around that's because the threads probably aren't lined up yet so i'm going to turn this whole thing and see if there we go i just heard it pop so the threads are now should be lined up in the rod end now and i can tell by just taking my fingers not the machine because you don't want to do this you want to start with your fingers make sure everything's doing what you think it should be doing i think that's threading find again i'm going to go ahead now remember we got to take the nut now and run it back and compress the stack as we're running it back or turning it back into this so we get more thread exposed here to go up into our rod end because we want as much thread in that rod end as we can get for support so you would just hold the back like this and turn the nut and we're going to turn the nut counterclockwise and it's clockwise back here to run it down this way onto that thread like that and then as i do that then i can take and run this rod back here turn it clockwise and see how now i can start running my thread up into that rod end like that but then i'm going to stop again because i can't go any further because of the nut and i have to run the nut this way again i'm going to speed that up a little bit here we go but you have to be careful about how much you do because you don't want to back it out too far see how my stack is feeling here it's feeling pretty good right there because we have the spring in it i'm gonna go ahead and back this out some more i'll back it down this way some more so make sure i got plenty of thread in that rod end there i bought them out in the rod end now and that's not what you want to do i mean you could i suppose leave it this way but the manufacturer says that you should leave some room in there so what i'm going to do is back this out from the rod in itself and leave a little bit of room in there like that because now i can actually turn this by hand but you can see that i have some room in there on my threads before the nut is hitting that rod end i can go ahead and do it clockwise and hit it or i can just pre-load a little bit on the spring so now what i'm doing counterclockwise here i'm compressing this stack again and i'm putting preload on the spring itself and that's totally subjective where you want that to be as far as what you feel when we're pressing on the pedal so now the spring is moving now before of course it's hard to do this on the bench without it bolted down but yeah now i've got some of that movement before i'm engaging the bumpers themselves that's typically the kind of way i like it set up and again it's totally subjective and not only that but you can take this time now if you want to and turn this aluminum spacer down here that we never took off it says sim forge on it so you have the sim forge logo turned back up you can actually hold that as you do adjustments so this gives us a pre-load adjustment now similar to what we were talking about before we even got started and i had this one in there we still could do that a little bit and make things loose and i can still do that here i can run this in and get this pretty loose now not as loose as with this because the spring moves further the spring will spread out further but things can still get looser see i can actually move this around see now if i tighten it back down most of that's going to go away and counterclockwise tightens it down kind of unintuitive from other things you may have done with stuff yes now it's much tighter i can't barely move it now okay so that's how you adjust this pedal set it's easier to do on the bench obviously than it would be mounted to your rig but it's still doable i think depending on the tools that you have available and this just makes it a little faster when you have something like that but again just doing it manually with your wrench like this is a 13 mil by the way that's a 13 millimeter and this is a six mil again back here you can just do it that way and get the same job done just going to take you a little longer now before we stop let's go ahead and talk about the durameter or the shore ratings on these durometers this is the black ones and i'm gonna go ahead and put this on here and i don't know you guys will see this well or not but i'll call it out all right so there we have 70 it looks like let me take another measurement because sometimes it'll be a little different there we go that's 75 right there depends on where you hit these things sometimes okay let's make sure i get on it good okay now we have 80 i think it's 80. let's try the other one see where it goes so black looks like it's 80 yeah the other one's 80 also now we'll go to the red one see we have here and that's a 94 i'm i'm guessing that's probably just being between a 90 and 95 for the red let's try this other red one should be about the same if they're cutting it from the same material yeah that's about the same thing 94. so the yellow must be the softer one let's see hmm 85 on this yellow one what was my black one 80. so the black one's the softer one in fact as i push harder it kind of backs off a little bit yeah probably get 80 on that before yep 75 there i thought it was 80 before well 75 there too okay so 75 black is the softest yellow would be the next in line at 85 and we have reds they're sitting here at about 94 95 so i'm guessing they may call this a 90 and yeah they might call this an 80 and this one is 70. so that tells you which ones you want to put in based on if you want to go softer or you want to go harder as far as your brake feel under foot and i think i'm going to leave mine here i am going to turn my aluminum piece so i can see the stem forge logo again and yeah everything is lined up now everything is good not that hard to do it's a little fiddly but now that i showed you the process and what you want to pay attention to as you're doing this it shouldn't be too bad so now we're going to mount our pedals to our pedal base and this comes with your kit by the way this is not an accessory that you have to spend extra money on that's pretty good deal i think for 333 dollars it consists of some profile we have one piece of 40 series 120 which has three channels in it and i'm going to tilt this up and this is going to slide around because i've already got loose to show you how this heel tray works there we go and we have two single pieces of 40 series here supported by some gusseted corner brackets very solid little structure here it should do its job quite well i think i don't have any reservations about it and of course as you can see this will slide back and forth our tray and it will go up and down so when it goes up in a slot this kind of rocks up that's the way the design is you can change the holes if you need to but everything's set up where i need it to be right now except for i gotta figure out where i need this tray to be as far as in relation to where the pedals are in the back here what's in the slot because i want to make sure i have plenty of room to adjust the pedals back and forth the petals have these flanges you may have seen in a closer look and i just want to make sure that i have all the range in that flange available to me without bumping into my pedal tray so i'm just going to hold this pedal in here like this i'll push it forward i'm already hitting it so i'm going to back this off a little if you pull it too far it kind of droops off in there but we can hold that up and tighten it so it doesn't really matter all right so i'm just going to look down here and that's prob that's it right there that's all i've got as far as before the bolts are actually going to be into the end of the channels in this flange here all right so now i can just kind of move this forward until i touch it and i'm going to back off a little i just don't want it hitting when i when the pedal returns to its position and once i have this i'm going to take my five millimeter wrench and go ahead and tighten these bolts up in the bottom first now they have these t-nuts on there that you may have seen the closer look and you got to watch those things and make sure they turn in the channel so you have to back them out sometimes to get them enough room so they twist when you start to tighten it up like like that there you go it twisted so you can actually look on the side there and see it i like these t-nuts this is the only catch or gotcha for these things other than that i really like them because you can still drop things straight into the channel even after you've got things already sealed off i'll show you that in a minute here so we'll go over and do the same thing over here go ahead and make sure this guy's going to turn it does good and this one turns beautiful all right get the pedal back off now we're going to tighten up these bolts here and there's two on each side obviously i'll show you where they are you guys can see them down there one up there one down there now i could hold it like this and try to tighten it up and i'm going to be using a regular quarter inch driver with a 10 mil socket on the end of it and of course what i've been using this 5 millimeter wrench i could do this and kind of hold it in there and wiggle around but probably the easiest thing is just to sit it down save myself some trouble i'm going to go ahead and get these tightened up we have four to do there's nylak nuts so you have to use a wrench even to get them snugged up get it on there there we go only a couple turns though so you don't have to go too far with like it one more we're done we are home baby so now our heel tray is securely fastened to the base plate it's not going anywhere which is nice this is a really good design here because i i like something that's firm so if you slip your foot off the pedal or whack this thing or you're getting in the cockpit and you whack it it doesn't go anywhere very cool very nice nice solid piece here now i've got this i'm going to check it one more time make sure i got it right now i did okay so we're good to go now before i put the pedals on and take a look at some other things this is how we're going to be mounting them we've got a washer here these are thick washers that come with this by the way it's a three millimeter washer this is an m6 bolt 10 millimeters long that's all you need apparently socket head cap stainless steel unit very nice and we have that t-nut that i was just telling you about right here and you can see there is a kind of a radius on one corner here versus this guy over here is sharp so it kind of goes like this and then falls down in the same way on the other side that's so when we tighten this up we're turning the bolt this way clockwise that causes this nut to rotate let me show you there rotate clockwise in the channel and it tightens up and pulls against the sides of the channel very cool now because the way these things work we can just drop them in but before we dropped in one that i've already done i'm going to show you these corner brackets i've already got two of them on this side this is the mounting interface we're going to be using to mount it to whatever you're going to mount this to so we've got these nice slots in here so there is some adjustability and we have some m8 bolts in here these are button heads and we have these inserts if you didn't see the closer look i'll show you with here they pressed in some inserts into this 120 piece this 4120 so that that is an m8 insert so you put the bolts in the bolts are these guys inmates stainless steel units but button heads very simple to put this on this is going to be a very sturdy base plate i can already tell and what i usually do when i'm doing something like this i'll go ahead and drop the bolt in then i'll get my wrench on it so i can keep pressure on it and locate it exactly where i want it to be i'm just kind of looking at that insert and the threads get it started very carefully and you're good to go these things really go in easy too these inserts are pretty good quality all right so we'll do this one over here and then we'll be done we have all of our corner brackets on well i didn't want to show you this real quick though these corner brackets have tabs on them those tabs and they're going to fit in this channel and in the bottom channel down there and it's going to be an anti-rotation feature there see that well if i get it on there so it keeps it from rotating very cool go ahead and throw this bolt in it's well thought out system here it's good to see somebody doing this kind of a build you know especially at the price point 333 dollars showing you that it can be done for less money i really like what's going on here with this kit we have everything mounted now except for the pedals obviously and i'm going to show you i got one pre-done with the t-nuts already in it you can see there's our m6 bolt we have that thick washer in there then we have our t-nut now i want to do is turn these all the same direction before i set it in here you want to make sure you don't have them too far in either because you want them they you want these to go ahead and go all the way down to the channel so they'll turn like they're supposed to but if you turn them like this because that's the way the channels are running this way you can actually bring it over here and you might have to adjust forward or backwards on them a little bit like this one here but then it just falls right in how cool is that but i'm going to go ahead and tighten this one down and again i'm looking straight down on here to watch that t-nut to make sure it rotates in the channel if it doesn't that means i got to back the bolt out a little bit and give it and then push down on the bolt and then rotate it so we'll see how it goes here that one's right on beautiful go back here this one see how it's doing yep hey man we're getting if you give them enough room in space you don't have to worry about it that's just to go ahead and do what it's supposed to do now this one did not turn which means i need to back it out a little push down on it and then turn it and it turned there there we go once you get used to this piece of cake nothing to it i'm just going to snug it up a little bit now because i don't know exactly where i'm going to have this thing now one more thing i meant to mention this is a good time to decide where you want the height of your pedal faces to be get this little closer here the clutch is one i haven't adjusted yet i'm going to bring my shoe over here that i'm going to be using on the clutch it's a little bit too low so sideways here you see a little better the ball of my foot's just catching the top of the pedal face i want it higher than that now the throttle is no problem it's already set up pretty good because it's a longer pedal too and that fits exactly where i want it to be my fuse is going to be more of a straight up angle i know some people sit like this your feet are like this when they're using it but i'm usually closer because of the sitting position i have my cockpit to a straight up position not quite straight up obviously but closer to the pedal down here and that's perfect for the throttle pedal and i've already adjusted let me go ahead and take this guy the brake pedal so we'll go ahead and put that up here all the way as far as it'll go i have the screws in the bottom most holes that i can get it in and also have it raised as high as i can get it in the slots in the back i can't get any higher because this bolt back here and the nut is hitting the spreader here so there's nothing to do about that but i got it where i need it to be i think it'll be just fine right so now i'm going to put my go ahead and just use this one and that's okay when i put the angle in the pedal ball of my foot is going to be right in the sweet spot on that brake pedal face so i'll be able to regulate that braking the way i want to as far as your threshold and then when you transition into the trail braking as you rotate the car you get it set up to hit the right apex so you get through the turn very quickly but the clutch is too low so i'm going to fix that not only that but the brake pedal itself is a little bit off angle it's a little bit set back from the throttle on the angle part so i'm going to and the reason is i've raised the throttle up to the third hole from the bottom if you saw the adjustments you saw me do that so i'm in the third hole from the bottom hole one two three now the brake pedal is on the second hole so i'm just going to raise that up very simple you just take these bolts out if you saw the adjustments one on each side take them out slide them up done and you're going to loosen these guys too by the way so it'll be able to move but if you don't know how to do that just go look at the adjustments and that'll be pretty self-evident i think no worries so that's about it except for the electronics this is the load cell amplifier circuit you may have seen when we were talking about the brake pedal this has 3m adhesive on the back i'm going to stick it right here because really no other place to put out you can't put it up here because then you won't be able to adjust this way with the pedals the way you want to now the good news is this is going away i've talked to the manufacturer about some of the things here with this pedal set and they will be changing this to an integrated load cell amplifier circuit on their main board here so it'll just be one board moving forward and then they're going to send me one one to get one but right now we're just going to mount it like this with a 3m and then i'll have a be able to plug it in obviously with these rj45 ports and plug it into here where it needs to go and it's easy to see where these go by the way we have let's see which ones watch okay here we've got the accelerator see a little thing there says ac then next to that on top in the middle you might be able to see it through the plex there it says br for break and then over here we have the clutch yeah cl look like a d but that's the cl in there oh well you can see that without maybe blinding you with some glare there so easy enough now one thing about this is and it's curious the way that they set this up they have one bolt here they have one bolt here and obviously they have standoffs plastic on each side well it doesn't want to sit flat like that so that's okay because i'm going to be mounting it somewhere on my chassis i'm not sure where i've got up to three meters i'm not three meters but about a meter to go as far as the length of the cables if you saw that part on the closer look to plug this in so i'm probably just going to put some velcro on the bottom here and then velcro wherever i'm going to actually set it down on and then set it down i'm going to have to have something that's narrow enough to get through these bolts either this way or this way because of the way it's situated but we'll get it figured out no big deal so that's it what we'll do is go ahead and secure the pedals i'm going to adjust the angles to get them where i want them then we'll go over and mount it on my pedal tray and we come back we'll take a look and see how that went so we have the pedals mounted now everything went pretty smoothly this is a heavy kit when i pulled it off the bench i noticed how heavy it was so i weighed it and it came out to 20 pounds and eight and a half ounces or 9.3 kilos pretty heavy we used the corner brackets i did deploy the corner bracket and the front here with another tee not because of the way my pedal tray works but that's the beauty of this profile you can get this thing set up pretty much any way you want to now we'll go over here and look at the electronics like i said i was going to stick the load cell amplifier circuit board on the back of the profile that's working out quite well and we have the electronic board down here on some velcro and that's pretty stiff so i'm not worried about that moving around too much everything's working well so yeah no problems there we've got all our cables connected good to go so far and it tested out pretty good we'll go around here and look at the front and yeah i think they look pretty good in there i did raise up the clutch pedal the face as high as i could get it to match the brake and the throttle pretty much i didn't have to mess with that so yeah everything looks good here i like the way this went together so all we have to do now is get into the rig and do some driving we're in eye racing at sebring and the low to 79 for some heel and toe shifting this is a great way to test a three pedal set yeah you can put a lot of stress on them and see how they respond to that you can break them or if you know they they bend on you or something like that so when you're hammering away like this on them and i am doing that i'm not taking it easy on these pedals i'm stabbing them pretty good in fact you can see some motion when i'm doing it and that is not the pedal base and the pedals by the way and you'll see that once we get out of the h pattern shifting part it's actually the whole rig's kind of moving because i'm really stomping on the pedals so everything kind of moves forward a little bit because the rig is all the way up to its middle position that's why you see the flashing lights over there by the emergency button so yeah when it's that high and i'm throwing my weight around it moves a little bit so it's not the the pedal is actually moving it's the whole rig is what i'm stopping if you watch the wheel base upright you'll see that so i just want to make sure you didn't think that was the pedals or the pedal base it's very solid in fact it's more solid than i thought it would be once i had it bolted down but it is like 20 some pounds so yeah it's doing a good job here as far as letting you feel what the pedals are doing and that's the most important thing underfoot what does it feel like the throttle is good it's not the best throttle i've had under my foot but i wasn't expecting that the resolution is good enough but the throw to get the maximum resolution was a bit much for me and my ankle i couldn't get my ankle to feel right with that kind of throw so i had to back my stop up and you can see it in the video here the stops actually backed up more towards the front than it is the rear and that did cut down on some of my resolution but didn't cut it down so much that i couldn't adapt to it and yeah still accelerate smoothly out of corners and through corners like this one here turn 17 which is a very hard one to do that in and yeah this lotus by the way is very hard to do that with because it's very powerful in a very light car now the brake itself if you'll notice i have gone to the red bumpers in the stack there and i kept the yellow spring i'm still not sure if i'm gonna keep the yellow spring or go to the red but i was able to adapt well enough to be able to control the car like i need to in my threshold and in my trail braking when i'm actually coming back off the brake a little bit to initiate turn in now again the brake is something very subjective and i do like a load cell because it's pressure based and you do get a good feel here i think for what the car is doing not the best that i've ever had but yeah again as i've been saying throughout this review at 333 plus shipping you know you can't complain too much here it's a solid set underfoot and that's the main thing the clutch mechanism well like most clutches when they're on the bench or you're sitting in your cockpit just manipulating it or actioning it you can feel that pressure plate feeling in that part of the clutch like we could on the bench but yeah once you're doing this stabbing at it it all goes away you're just dabbing at a pedal after that's done but yeah heel and toe shifting putting a lot of pressure on these pedals they responded quite well i really tried to find something that i could really complain about and i couldn't they just took whatever i gave them and i put a few hours on these pedals doing this because really it was pretty easy to do i kind of took to it pretty quick it didn't take me long to come up to speed on those pedals using my heel and toe now we're going to calm things down a little bit and get into the left foot braking mode on the pedals and here's where you can really start feeling the fine nuances of what this pedal says delivering and they do feel good underfoot there is some flex in the system in the base plate where the pedals are flexing from where they're connected to the base plate and you'll see that in the video here as when i get into the heavy braking zones like coming up here you'll see that we got some movement here when i'm on hard on the brakes other than that though there's really not much going on as far as where the flex and softness is under foot now i think it's meeting expectations here as far as being soft underfoot and i wasn't expecting the stiffest pedals in the world the important thing is are they too soft that you can't adapt to them and feel what the car is doing or the pedal is feeling underfoot but i didn't think they're that soft i think they came out to give me a good driving experience because i was able to adapt and that's the main thing can you adapt to this pedal set and i was able to do that and get pretty close to my consistent times that i do here in the 488 gt3 so yeah i think meeting expectations in that department but it really exceeds the set as a whole exceeds expectations in general i think at the end of the day i kind of like these pedals final thoughts on the sim forge mark 1 pedal set out of the box this pedal set started exceeding my expectations considering the price point that they come in at they are constructed from three millimeter steel plate that is sporting a nice black powder coat finish all the edges of the metal plates and pieces were well finished with no burrs left over from the manufacturing process the petal faces are well done with appropriate shapes and sizes for each the brake pedal has an 80 kilogram load cell the kit comes with a good assortment of polyurethane bumpers that allow me to dial in a good feel in threshold and trail braking situations the throttle in clutch pedal have a contactless haul sensor setup that can be adjusted for sensitivity something i did not expect considering the mark 1's price there are 3d printed pla fixtures in the pedal structures that are used for fixing electronic bits but not used for any load bearing duties you can download the 3d files for these parts and print them out yourself if you want a different color all fixing bolts and nuts in the kit are made from stainless steel all parts were present so no trips to the local hardware store to source missing bits there is an ample amount of adjustment available in each pedal allowing most sim racers to be able to dial in a good setting i think the included pedal tray is constructed from 40 series aluminum profiles it felt solid on the bench and has enough mass to allow a good feel for the pedal's available tactile feedback the heel plate is finished in a red gloss powder coat like the rest of this kit it has a good amount of adjustability in its design once i had everything mounted and adjusted to my taste it was time to put them through some rigorous testing as usual i put them through a few hours of heel and toe use this puts a lot of pressure on any pedal set and allows me to see how they react to this type of treatment although they did not transmit the quality feel of some much more expensive pedal sets i've tested they do deliver a satisfying driving experience i was able to get up to speed without any dramas after a few initial laps the mark ones did allow me to achieve lap times that were very consistent not as fast as my best lap times but consistent nonetheless and really at the end of the day that is what a pedal set is supposed to do the sim forge mark 1 pedal set met most of my expectations and exceeded some for a pedal set that cost 330 dollars plus shipping it certainly seems to be just as good or better than some pedal sets i've tested in the past that cost a bit more i'm very roland thanks again for watching the sim racing garage channel don't forget to hit the subscribe button and if you would like to help support what i do here at the srg visit my website at simracinggarage.com

Channel: Sim Racing Garage

Views: 46,638

Keywords: sim racing garage, sim racing, racing, assetto corsa, iracing, sim racing cockpit, gaming, fanatec, simulator, online racing, racing simulator, simracing, forza, rfactor, thrustmaster, racing wheel, simulation, vr, f1, gran turismo, shifter, simxperience, HPP, Heusinkveld, Sim Lab, Logitech, racing pedals, motion simulator, PS4, XBOX, Xero Play, RF2, computer racing, IMSA, WEC, gamer, nascar, scca, triple monitor, oculus, racing seat, sparco, momo, D-BOX, bodnar

Id: g-O5Beil878

Length: 84min 8sec (5048 seconds)

Published: Sat Apr 17 2021