Fanatec Club Sport Pedals V3 Review

[Music] welcome to another edition of the simracing garage I'm Barry Rowland in this episode I'll be reviewing a pedal set that I've been meaning to review for well quite a while now the clubsport v3 pedal set from the guys at fnatic with an all-metal construction and a 90 kilogram load cell is this a pedal set that can deliver the durability and performance a lot of some racers are looking for we're gonna put them through the srg review process and find out so let's get to it now for our closer look segment on this pedal set first I have to hand it to fanatic that yeah when you pull this clubsport v3 pedal set out it really impresses with the fit finish and overall presentation that they went you can tell they went to a lot of extreme lengths here to figure out what they wanted to do to make this something that when you lay down your hard-earned money and you pull it out of the box it puts a smile on your face instead of a frown so as you can see yeah they've got the aluminum contrast against the black which is very nice and we got some red screws in here all the counter bores are revealing the raw aluminum underneath the analyzation it looks like to me here and the pedals faces themselves have a nice you see that pattern to it they're kind of a brush to look to it including the levers of course all this is aluminum the heel plate is aluminum and when we continue on the side part of the frame here really done nicely down the side with these contrasting red and silver again revealing the aluminum around those red bits or red screws rather that are holding the frame together and of course the radiused arch here has also the nice chamfering revealing the aluminum very nice and we it continues on to the back here you can see that we have some red for the clutch and the spring and the brake which is all the way in right now and yeah a spring over here and yeah just a really nice neat well done presentation you can tell the fit and finishes on this right away is substantial when you take it out of the box it weighs 12 almost 12 an hour just under 12 and a half pounds and yeah it's like I said you know you you've got something good in your hands and yeah there's not going to be any flex here I don't think of course we'll find out once we actually have it hard mounted to our rig and the construction here the reason it's so you know we got aluminum everywhere I'm wondering where that weight was until I turned it upside down and took a look and you can see we have the bars that make up this frame we have a rod going here that's a solid steel rod also a solid steel rod here for the front of the pedal mounts and also on the bottom here you can see the pedal mounts have bronze bushings all the way around also very nice and we have the same thing continuing on the bottom here you can see the bushings in there and this again is a steel bar but there's actually another one a steel square bar right here that is actually acting as a stop a reinforcement obviously for the frame and a stop for the pedal lovers themselves and it's kind of pinched in between the frame here you don't see a screw for it there only a screw for the bar so it's kind of pinched in there and I get a better look at it here if I can get some light on it let's see yeah there it is that flat bar and of course when we use the pedals and they return that's what they land on so we've actually got four steel bars going this way and this is aluminum and yeah it's just a very rigid frame just just from the feel of things and we have the usual stuff from fanatic here as far as the vibrating motors here are the actually motors that spin these weights and the weights are actually half weights half moons if you will and when we get to look inside I'll spin those up but yeah that's because they're off weight like that that's what gives it the vibration when these motors spend them right nice rubber feet on the bottom the holes for mounting are easily accessible by of course you wouldn't think so when you first looked at it but yeah of course I'm putting fingerprints all over it now but the this whole plate right here too take these three screws out in this heel rest or heel plate will come right off and then we'll have access to our holes here for a nice solid mount haven't decided have them to do that yet right so yeah just a very good-looking set of pedals right out of the box and you can see that there's some sensors over here on the throttle and over on the clutch and there's the one on the clutch they're hard to see it there there it is and these are actually Hall effect type sensors so we don't have any more potentiometers on this level of pedal it which is a very good thing should give it a longer life cycle on the parts but we'll look at that a little bit closer on the look inside anything else we're going to look at on the basic assembly here and I think that's about it now what comes with it we can actually change our pedals out because it comes with these bad boys and these will actually put your pedal out further and at a straighter angle when we have this mounted to the same pedal a lot of gasm run are running these because of that and I've tend to let my feet are like this usually when I'm racing so I want a flatter surface too but we can actually if you don't want to use these round ones well I'm not sure about this one I suppose it would work but you can actually take these faces off still use the brackets that will kick these faces forward and flatter and as far as the rate goes so yeah we'll see how that goes when we get to that section I'm actually going to put these pedal in fact I might mix and match them a little bit maybe have this on the throttle and over here on the clutch and maybe leave the flat one for the brake pedal we'll see because I like the area this brake pedal when you're hitting the brake especially in heel and toe you want a little bit of more room on the brake pedal I think but even though I'm sure it's manageable with one of these faces right what else we get we get the usual cable stuff going on here we get the rj12 standard cable that will hook these into your wheel base we have a very nice USB cable here it's actually got some nice sheathing on it well that's showing up but yes a very nice cable it has two ferrite cores on it to help eliminate EMI and yeah I was really surprised to pull this out I really like that again the club sport pedals come with it just a little bit of the touch of higher-level finish on everything it looks like we get a bag of smaller flathead screws that we can use for I believe the pedals when we change the faces around we get two of these guys we get a black spring here and this is a stiffer spring then the red spring that comes on the throttle we also get the bushings for it because obviously it's a bigger spring it needs a different bushing and we also get the same thing over here for the clutch and it's a stiffer spring for the clutch they also give us a bottle of lithium grease and that nice so we can have it keep everything nice and slick as far as the maintenance goes on these pedals and we'll talk more about that as we go through the look inside and we mount some pedals on there and things like that what else we got I think that's about it so yeah just a quick closer look there again have a very good looking set of pedals feels very substantial in hand I don't think we're gonna see much flex again we still have to use them obviously to figure out what we really feel about them how we really feel about them but yeah from the get-go right out of the box I would have to say that if I you know if you spend three hundred and twenty nine dollars on this set of pedals I don't think you're gonna be disappointed but of course we still have to use them and what we'll do next is get go ahead and just jump right into the look inside we'll pull some of these sensors off and maybe the load cell back here on the break that you can see right there we'll see how all this stuff comes off if it's modular or not and yeah we'll just get to the look inside sign right next now let's take a look inside of this pedal set not much to look inside as far as what's going on it's a because it's mostly going on outside except for the electronics and yeah they've got these vibrating motors well the motors don't actually vibrate they have these weights on them that are half-moons then when they spin cause vibration so they're really spinning motors but they give you that rumble of vibration for any lock breaks and also in the throttle but not in all games we'll go ahead and turn this on real quick just take a look at it yeah and you can see what they're doing there they're spinning and of course if you put your hand on it you can feel that now is not real substantial as far as what you're feeling here you can feel it I suppose if I had racing shoes on it might not feel it at all so yeah I just don't know how effective that is in real use and it works best when plugged into the wheel base not so much on PC games I think it said of course uh it works in project cars maybe not project cars a race room I know it works out racing I think only the brake works if you use usb and that's how we'll be using these pedals so yeah that's going to be kind of a hit and miss thing we're just gonna have to wait and see how that works so we'll go ahead and turn that off unplug our USB because we don't want to cause any damage to electronics when we're messing around with them but that is sad and now we're safe to go so what I thought I'd do first is take a look at this Hall sensor set up it fnatic has on the throttle and on the clutch and there's three screws here they are two and a half millimeter and we're gonna pull those off but before I do that I am going to unplug it from the bottom control board here this is the main electronics control board and I'm gonna unplug this sensor and we can see we've got some cable management Clips here and I'm gonna pull those pull the wire out of there is actually because I might actually want to pull this off I'll probably just pull it all the way off just because we can like this over here and I got a feeling I'm gonna be taking this load cell out so I'm gonna go ahead and plug the brake and take it out of the cable management clips also I'm under here two things done at once there we go kind of put that on the top you don't want to set these feet or any part of this frame down on these wires obviously that would not be good there we go everything's clear looking good so we got three screws here and I'm gonna pull those off usually start with the bottom ones first and you always always test when I first unscrew something I always test on how tight it is and this is not very tight so I'm thinking there's some kind of a I don't know something in here that's keeping it floating so it's at the right distance from the magnetic sensor that's in here calling the hall causing the hall effects to work and you can see this is a fine thread type of screw here let's get some focus here there it is yeah it's just a cap head screw there but that aside I'm gonna lose it and we'll go ahead and pull these other two out and again very they're not tight at all but they're snug and they have some resistance to them I got a feeling there's something here so we're gonna take this I think that there we go I knew there was something in there something just fell out all right so I'm gonna try to lean this backwards yeah we got some bushings in here apparently you see there's bushings all right so I'm gonna pull those off for our Louise I'm one fell in there here so get you out of the way yeah one more there we go alright so first off we have in the shaft here you see embedded in the shaft where this rod is connecting to it's actually a magnet in there and we can actually I think there's a this will stick to it yeah you can see the wire tired wire tied just kind of sticks there so yeah magnet there and right across from it when we mount this board is this little guy here this little chip there and that's what's picking up the rotation of that magnet you know it's a rectangular looking magnet so the magnetic magnetic field is changing as that spins so this picks that up and lets the electronics board's know what position your throttle is in or your clutch for that matter because they're both the same deal so yeah I like this actually because it's a nice one-piece unit if this goes bad very easy for fanatic to send you another one very easy to replace it with just three screws so yeah again I really like it when a manufacturer does something like this and I'm not sure if they would send you the whole piece here or the board I guess the they probably send you the whole piece I would imagine cuz there's a little spacer back here that might be it glued to or something I don't know so anyway yeah I really like that they've set it up this way now the clutch is the exact same thing we'll put that aside for now and what we'll do is go over because the clutch has the same sensor on it so it's gonna be the same thing we'll go over to the brake and see how this load cell is working now on the back of this brake we can see there are 1 2 3 screws all right and they are also 2 point 5 mils and we have a wire here coming off the assembly now we want to make sure that we don't stress this wire at all if once we're handling this and trying to take it off so I'm gonna do is just kind of keep it at an angle here with one hand and loosen these guys up they have actually and what this is showing up see if you can see it they have some notches in them next to those screws so they can slide out so in other words it's not a hole it's just a slot there oh well that's showing up but yeah we got a slot here and we got two so I got a slot on this one and the Salone on that one up there so that means we need to take these two out I'm thinking and just loosen this one so let's see what how it works so we'll go ahead and pull this guy out again usually like to start with the bottom ones because they kind of hang there and again we have some machine screws here because all this is obviously going into metal little caps socket cap deal going on right and I'll pull this one off and you have to kind of pick this up to get the right angle on it so yeah be mindful of that and once I get this one off I should be able to loosen this one only have to take it off just get it loose a little bit that and if all is working well you know what I think this is not going to come out yet and this is why this right here is putting pressure on the load cell at idle in other words even though I don't have any pressure on this pedal and of course that's to maintain the contact and the tension and such so we're gonna have to go a step further here just like if we were replacing the bumpers with the performance kit that you can get with this which I did get with the but I'm going to do another video on that so yeah we're gonna have to actually take this apart up here not a big deal you look at the bottom here in fact mom doing that I am going to tighten that screw back down right there alright because I don't want this falling out or something like that so yeah we want to tighten that back up before we go in here now there's a screw under here and all these pedals have this and it's just a set screw in here that's clamping down on a rod that's sitting in here see that rod and of course this rotates on that rod but we've got to get that loose and get the rod out it's just to loosen that set screw you don't have to take it out and once it's loose then we should be able to push that rod out now pushing the rod out is a bit of a process but not too bad you can actually push it a little bit with your finger and sometimes you can relieve a little pressure or shake it back and forth a little bit to relieve pressure on it as you push it out but I can only push it out like an eighth of an inch or maybe two millimeters with my finger I need something to help me get it the rest of way out in this case I'll be using my little hex there then this is a 5 mil hex wrench and I'm going to go ahead and push the rod from this side out to me hopefully I'm just going to kind of wiggle this a little bit take some pressure on and off and see if I can get it to move without messing anything up and there we go starting to move there and I'll just keep pushing as far as I can with this because then I'm going to pull out with my fingers obviously so we've got it out that far easy enough and now I'm just going to take my fingers here well I'm doing the same thing and you have to come out there it goes and this is just a steel pin then again the interface over here this it feels like I know if that's aluminum or Derleth looks like it's Berlin or something so it just lets everything rotate around there and you can see some marks here where the yeah there it is where the setscrew is pinching it a little bit so it doesn't move all right so now you're supposed to own these breaks if you're going to do the rub the bumper replacement you put ring right here all the way down the tension adjuster all the way down and then we can actually push it down see how it kind of falls down and watch this guy okay this one's going to try to fall on your nice aluminum anodized piece here and scratch the crap out of it so don't let it do that kind of hold on to it now once you have this loose you have to pull this back and rotate the whole assembly down that's how you do the bumper change but I am gonna try I don't if I make this happen or not but if I can there we go I actually pushed forward on this rod far enough to where I got it out so there it is see see what's trying to do is trying to scratch it the best it can so here we have a metal rod and yeah this is some kind of a don't know if that's aluminium or not yeah that's aluminum okay so that's aluminum piece it felt like Durling for some reason anyway so that's what is pushing in on the brake bumpers that are inside this brake and now that I've got it loose though I've taken the pressure off of this load cell so what I'm gonna do is rotate this up and let the pedal fall down here and you can actually see the bumpers in there don't need to take those out for this though I don't think so I'm gonna do is kind of let this sit here well I'm gonna let it do what it wants to do I guess but I am gonna set it here like this just so I can get this Greeley's remember we got to get this screw loose again somebody very carefully picked this up and loosen that screwed we've got enough tension off yeah it looks like it what's not undid that screw got loose factor I think this thing could probably just sit there like that and now when we try to do is slide this whole assembly out of the load cell assembly and look at that man that is easy gonna be careful this thing wants to fall down now and change the angles so again be mindful of what's going on here stay there alright looks like it's not gonna go anywhere right so here it is again I have to commend fnatic for making this a one-piece unit that looks to be very easily easily serviceable rather so if this goes bad they can send you another one and you can just slide it in there and if we take a closer look here we see that that is the load cell in between these two steel plates these are steel and they've been riveted one end of the load cells riveted to this plate up here and then we turn this one around we can see the other sent into the load cell is riveted to the other plate so when we're putting pressure on that brake pedal it pushes on this plate and bends that load cell sensor and there's the wiring that goes into the load cell you can see it right there again yeah I'm I'm actually pleased with what I'm seeing here this is going to be super easy as far as maintenance now hopefully we won't need to have to do that but yet in the case that we do then yeah I couldn't imagine it being any easier to put this in or rather take this out and replace it along with the sensor we saw before this Hall effect sensor setup here if this goes bad this little board so yeah kudos to fnatic for doing it this way they could have sealed all this up you know and and made it so you have to send it back to them to replace it even though they might still require that I don't know exactly what their policies are but yeah I like what I'm seeing here I'm just gonna leave that right there for now and of course I'm gonna normal all this back up once we in this video so again well now we know how are things working and we'll just go on to the next segment now we'll take a look at changing the springs for the throttle and clutch actually I'm not gonna do the actual spring change on the clutch but it's very similar to what we do with the throttle and because the clutch feels pretty good to me now once I have it in the rig and running it maybe I'll change my mind but I don't think so it feels pretty good so we'll concentrate on the throttle even though it's the same kind of thing going on here as the clutch and we've got two screws here on the back of this rod the supporting rod that's going back across the rear here it's easy enough these are three mil screws and we'll just go ahead and take those out I'll take the bottom one out first and you can see it's just a regular old machine thread on there all right my tool is magnetic so it kind of hung on there and we'll take the top one out and that means that yeah the cap is kind of and put my finger on holding this back cap on you'll see what I'm talking about in a second here and we'll just set that aside so this camp comes off the back like that so we'll take a quick look at that and it's a 180 degree circle or half the circle obviously of this rod here and the other half is in this piece here and yeah it's got some grease in there to help facilitate everything moving and not squeaking so if you ever develop a squeak in here that's probably one of the places I would be looking right so set that aside now all we have to do is put my rubber gloves on because it gives me a better grip on this kind of stuff and this is under spring tension so I want to make sure that nothing I could as much control over this as possible we don't want the springs and things flying away even though I don't think they will especially on this one because it's the weaker spring now going back with the heavier spring might be a different story so what I'm gonna do here is just take my thumbs and press this block forward far enough to get it past this rod here chances are I'm gonna have to put my fingers over here to get some support though so as I'm pushing I can hook my fingers around the back of this so that it gives me so I'm not sure how well you're gonna be see this is what I'm explaining it so okay so we're gonna push forward here and try to get this to rotate up yeah there we go pretty easy actually with this spring but I got a feeling it's not going to be quite that easy with the other one and I can you can actually drop this steel rod down with the spring still on it and the bushing and as it falls down the pedal lever it actually catches the foot down they're part of the frame so it kind of keeps it up right get my gloves back off second do stuff so here's the block and it has four holes up here for the dampener accessory that will will we will be putting on the throttle later on and it's got this bushing here I'm glad it came out a little bit and you can see it's lubricated and that's where obviously that steel rod is riding through and you can see the inside I think of that there we go all this is lubed up pretty well and again if you ever get any squeaking or anything you might want to look in there and clean everything out pull this bushing out and put in real ooh bit with the lithium grease they give you and that might take care of your squeaking issues right so we'll put that aside and pull this off let's bring off the ride along with the back bushing if I can get it to come all together as one unit looks like it's gonna cooperate so there we go there's the spring and it has the bushings right here obviously to help guide it over the rod and let's compare that to the replacement spring we're gonna be putting in here which is the black one I wish they made this one red too I mean it's big enough that you definitely would never get them mixed up because I kind of like the red on here right so you can see the bigger diameter here the height is bigger as far as the throw get away from a black t-shirt background and yeah that it's just bigger in general the wires are bigger the wire diameter the gauge of this wire is bigger so yeah it's gonna be a stiffer spring and I think it's gonna give me the stiffness that I want because this was just a little bit - I mean you can see how springy now I can actually compress it with my fingers which some people might like actually right and we've got our own set of bushings for this ring because obviously it's a wider diameter it's going to need a wider diameter bushing on there easy enough to put back on as you might imagine we just pick that rod up and slide it on and we'll grab our other bushing put it on the back let it rest there for a second put my gloves back on because now we're gonna have to put some effort in this to push this block forward and rotate it down to where it hooks back into this shaft or rod or everyone call it make sure your bushing is in there our bushing is in there it's right kind of raise it up and put that in there like that and I'm gonna do the same type of procedure I'm gonna hook my fingers back here and use my thumbs to press this forward and make sure I'm also going to kind of put a sideways motion on these spacers see how these spacers go back and forth and that's what they are they're spacing these pedals apart in fact if you could actually I was thinking you could actually if you want to move these around maybe you know cut some of these spacers take them off cut them and then have multiple ones where you could actually maybe move this around a little bit as far as your your pedal spacing I'm not gonna do that but yeah it looks like it's probably do it on me okay back to the task so I'm going to kind of spread those with my fingers as I'm wrapping around them to make sure I got room for this block to go back in and then I'm gonna push as hard as I can to get this thing back guys snap it there we go well piece of rubber came with it that's why I use these rubber gloves I don't know where there it is see that that's a piece of my rubber glove there on the thumb part that gets caught in between that block in the rod so that's why I wear gloves because that would have been maybe some of my skin so yeah it's be advised it's not see it's not the safest thing in a world to do and then that's why I try to get the gloves and everything so I got good grip good protection to make this maneuver right so now they're back on and our spacers are clear we can still kind of spin them around and that's all there is to it really all we're doing now is taking the cap put it back on there and I'm lifting this up because of the angle of the screws relative to my wrench here and I'm gonna go ahead and put the top one in first and again I'm just using my finger to kind of hold the cap in place based I'm calling it a cab and I don't want to talk it down all the way just yet and we'll put the other screw in just like this here we go now snug it up a little bit and again you don't have to torque the heck out of this stuff just make sure it's tight because you don't want to strip one of these out because then you got to drill it out re tap it if you can and if you've saved it well enough or you might even have to drill the next size up and get a bigger screw which is just a pain as you might imagine right so we'll take our spring here and put it away along with the spacers in a safe place we're gonna lose it and now yeah that's better I can tell already that's gonna be better with my foot on it and again you know it's all personal preference here I mean who knows I might even change my mind but I think this is what I want but we'll know once we get it on there and running it so yes about it feels about twice I would say what the red one was right so easy enough to do the clutch this screw over here comes out and on the other side this screw comes out which will let this flip up out of the way which will let this clutch mechanism this whole assembly here is going to rotate obviously they'll rotate out of the way in this block itself in here it's just going to drop down and separate from the shaft and then it's the same procedure and the same thing going back in you'll just kind of get this brink pushed up and then so it'll go back into this block down here reinstall that and you're done so there we have it the spring upgrade mod and when again these Springs here's the one for the clutch do come in this kit so if you want to go a little bit stiffer then you're able to without buying any accessories that's a nice thing I think I want to change the pedal phases obviously because now my p1 rig actually has a tilting pedal tray so we actually tilt this up and get it pretty straight if I really wanted to but I want to put the other phases on here I know on the throttle and the clutch and this is what I'm talking about obviously these assemblies that come with your brake set so that we can offset these from our original pedals and make them straighter at the same time and we got some angle adjustment and as you see they come with the screws already mounted on all these brackets but I've already taken them off - what I'm gonna do here so we just have the bracket and this is the pedal face a little closer look at this it has a nice radius to it it does have some texture to it but it's very very hard you hear it to tick on this so yeah it's not really much as far as grittiness which is okay because on a throttle face I really don't want much grip I want it to be very slick so my foot can slide up and down and modulate the throttle easily so yeah this is definitely going on the throttle and probably clutch - well we'll see how that I end up with later on so really it's not too much it's not too bad getting this off we have obviously two screws in the front here we're gonna have to take off all of them are the same way and we've got these a corn nuts in the back they're ten millimeter ones holding in the motor here and we've got another nut underneath that motor and yeah we just need to get that off first so I have a ten millimeter socket attached to it a little driver thing here for like a screwdriver and I'm gonna take you have to take this one off before you can get to the bottom one there so we'll go ahead and this is gonna take the motor to loose get that loose and then I'll take it off in my fingers and yeah you notice I didn't have to hold the four millimeter screw on the other side it just came off which is nice now this motors gonna want to drop off on you so be careful with that let's get our magnet dish out here make sure nothing goes flying and we'll grab the motor and carefully let it kind of sit to the side there I think it's okay to let it hang back I kind of put it on the bar here too so it takes some of the weight off of it and now you'll see we don't have an acorn nut down here this acorn net by the way looks like this and that's why they call it a cornet because it's sealed on the top or covered so that it looks better instead of just having a regular nut but underneath the motor there is a regular nut so we'll go ahead and get this outta my way when I put that there and just loosen that up okay and now we have that has a washer on it also nut and washer and now we can pull the whole assembly off right so we've got two long stainless steel screws here this is an aluminum block that they use for spacing the pedals out as we as you guys probably know as you seen this so we'll put that aside and we're supposed to be using that put the motor back alone but I don't think I'm really gonna have to do that so here's the pedal face a little close-up while we have it off and yeah very nicely done I love this countersunk holes against that black contrast it just looks very nice in the lights and of course we have that all the way around this chamfering exposing the aluminum very nice right these are the long screw stainless steel screws I believe these are and they give you six remember I showed you in the closer looks six of the smaller ones we're supposed to use to attach the flat plates to these brackets we'll see how that works out and yes in the longer ones supposed to attach the motor going back in this way like this with the space are attached I believe on this side some kind of a setup like this actually I'm sorry it's not on this lever it's actually on the bracket once we have it mounted so we'll see that as it goes on but I'm not sure we really have to do it that way we'll see right so here's the bracket and these are I believe these are like a half hitch yeah half inch centers on this I actually miked them out so we got a half inch so it depends on how far forwards or backwards you want the pedal facing it's good that we can actually adjust that some grease on there and they just mount into the two side holes of the pedal lever pretty simple stuff here yeah and all you got to do is take your screws and all these screws have acorn nuts on them obviously they did this because there we exposed and yeah these look a little fancier again all through this clubsport pedal set here it's pretty much the theme they're trying to make things look pretty nice and we just put a washer back on here again very repetitive stuff here I'm just gonna put this on and see how well it goes on and yeah it's this is like you know it's just one of those things we've got a lot of these to do so I'm going to speed this up so we make sure you get your washer on there too so we got a washer on this side and a washer on that side make sure you don't lose those and now you can see that you know the difference angles here that we can achieve with this just about kind of holding it there right so we'll do is go ahead and get the rest of these screws assembled on here and of course I'll speed it up so we don't have to wait around and watch me do that right so now we've got the screws put in and again I haven't kind of loosed there so I could again show you the different height adjustment we have here an angle and angle changes as we get higher so this is where I'm gonna want this I'm pretty sure as flat as possible because that's typically like I said before my foot sitting pretty flat as far as facing the pedal face but the way my sitting position is now this will go on here just like this with the smaller screws they say now as far as the height of this and all that I'm not sure where I'm gonna want it yet so yeah that's that's to get to be determined and we're supposed to put the motor back on with one of these long screws but I think that these small screws will also work with that if you wanted to use it that way but here's how they're doing it and we'll go ahead and do it the way they want to do it and that's put the block back in side against the lever just like it was sitting there before we have to put the screw in here at the same time in there it goes it kind of fits in there like that now an acorn nut will not work in here because these two acorns that's a little better here these two acorn nuts are sticking out too far I'm gonna go ahead and pick this all the way up and kind of Snug these a little bit and see if it'll hold just by finger tight I think it will we got four of them and yeah we're pushing this down and you can see the screw sticking through here so acorn nut is not going to fit through there at all well actually you know you probably could hold it up there and then tighten the screw from the other side and then use these to a coordinates to keep that one from turning I'm thinking but yeah might be better off with the regular one that went on there and that's the regular nut we took off before and we can put this in here which really has the same interference doesn't it yeah in fact it's like maybe you need to mount this before but no you don't okay see I pulled the screw out all the way just about all the way and now I can get this nut down in there and the nut is still not gonna turn just like the acorn nut so it looks like to me it doesn't matter which one we use get this started here this can be a bit tedious hold this here for a second hold it from the bottom see if I can't get a better finger on it in the bottom there we go so you can finger screw this in this career and you can see how it's kind of sitting on the top there I'm just using a finger pressure here and the nut is not gonna move because it's actually captured between these acorns which is I guess it's a good thing well next did it just turn alright so now we have that in there that's how we're gonna be mounting the motor when we actually put the motor back on because we need them but the matter of the motor to be mounted back on here like this right so again this is gonna be a fiddly little operation but that's how it goes now I'm gonna turn this around and see how this face is gonna look and we're supposed to take two of these small screws to do this with so let's think what happens here turn this around again and we'll put these two right where they were before put them through the plate and I'm gonna go low need the top one empty and that's what we were looking at now the problem is I'm not sure these acorn nuts are gonna work here this is too long well the top was not too long that bottom was sticking out a bit so we might do is we do have some extra washers here we can actually put some washers in here to space this out if we need to I'm gonna go and put two one there because I'm kind of feeling it's looking already like it's too far away so let's take a look at that and see how it works out yeah might need more than that and cervezas nope I think it's gonna do it so we snug these up I'm gonna smoke the top one up see how it's no go there we go right so there's what it looks like and we're still loose on them back there but that's what the difference you can see how much forward more forward that pedal face is yeah so yeah this is actually going to work that way and not much else to show you here is the far the assembling of these now I might actually do something different with this but you know it's all personal preference and yeah what you got will get the motor mounted back on so when we come back we'll have all the pedal faces along the way I want them to run and see how all that went together alright so a quick follow up on what we've got so far all the faces are on now pretty much the way I think I'm gonna want them to be and this is a healing toe setup because I like to use a heel in toe action and drive for a while with a pedal set when I first get it in that configuration because usually when you're hammering the pedals back and forth like that it will actually show you pretty quickly I think any weaknesses in the design as far as flex and things like that so that's why we're gonna do that you can see I've moved these pedal faces over because I want it closer to the throttle and this is your obviously your left foot using your clutch when you're using the clutch and sometimes I'll move my left foot over and do some left foot braking with it if I'm like trail braking while I need to feather the throttle with my right foot and of course you can see there's some offset here see how the brake pedal is actually more forward than the throttle pedal and the reason I did that was because when you're pressing on the brake throttle usually you're all the way down on the brake pedal just before you start to lock up of course and that's going you can see how impressing that's going past and that's just for the arm it's going past the actual face of the throttle so I can swing my heel around there and whack the throttle when I'm doing my down shifts I had to use if you can see here I had to put this bracket on the front pair of slots where the brackets for the clutch and the breaker on the rear to get them as far for as I could and the reason I did this if I had this remember there's a half-inch centers on this bracket here so if I had this bracket sticking out another half of an inch and I have my foot all the way down from the break then chances are I'm not gonna I had to reach around to get to the throttle face and maybe even slide into the side of it when I'm trying to slide around so this will work better so I had to put that further back which of course cause some other things to happen and when we're mounting the motor here you can see that I'm using a small screw right there not the long screw we used over here with the brake pedal and that is because B this is the face of this pedal in the back of this bracket is closer to the face of the lever and I had to use a obviously a shorter screw because you can see how tight it is in there with those acorn nuts it all worked out though it wasn't that big of a deal you just got a pic there I just want to show you guys what you know different things that can come up when you're trying to get the configuration the way you want it to and also another thing of note before you put the pedal faces in one go ahead and put your motor mounts back on because then you can actually get through these bracket holes right before the pedal faces on there you can actually get through those bracket holes and reach down and get to that screw and use your wrench like this to tighten it up and then go ahead and put your faces on so that's how I ended up doing it right pretty simple and again I'll be using this for healing toe and then maybe I'll mess around with some regular left foot braking but you know once it passed as a human toe test there's really it's not going to fail in a regular left foot braking type of car I don't think right so that's it now what we're gonna do is get it mounted and start driving these pedals just a quick bit here to show you how to adjust the throttle pedals throw by adjusting the length of this rod here and you just kind of these are 17 minutes you got to loosen those sometimes that you have to loosen them both and sometimes they both turn at the same time when you loosen it like right there although I couldn't see it because I'm looking at the camera so I'm trying to turn it loose into the game but it's already loose anyway once you have those loose it's a simple matter of turning the rod in or out of they block there that's attaching to the pedal lever and there I'm making an adjustment there it is simple enough again just roll the nuts back up give them a good tighten or you might want to test fit before you give them your final tighten just get them snug and then test fit it and yeah easy way to adjust the throttle throw it's just not documented in the PDF manual from fnatic here are the pedals mounted to some aluminum profile and the heel plate is off because that gives you access to the front holes and allows you to bolt it to a profile or whatever platform you're bolting it to quite easily and yeah this is going to be very secure and it is the 1020 series because I needed these pedals to be a little higher this is a quick look at the electronics package that yeah you can access this by removing the heel plate if you need to once you've mounted it speaking of mounting there it is so we've got everything mounted up it looks good so now the only thing left to do is go give this thing a drive so here we are in fanatics USB pedals properties page or application this is where we calibrate our pedals you'll see I actually have it on the manual mode because I like to use the manual mode more than I do the auto I think the manual is more accurate and it really it's very easy to use anyway so right away we'll see we've got the clutch brake throttle and handbrake and you can see down here in the brake I've actually got I'm not even touching the pedal I have some blue bar in there which means that would mean in game I would have brake applied I don't want that obviously so we need to get that out of there plus I'm gonna rest my foot on the pedal so that I'm simulating driving the car without actually putting the pedal down and yeah you can see it even gets to be more because of the weight of my foot and my leg so what I'm gonna do is get rid of that and this is kind of like just adding a dead zone to your pedal and I'm just gonna click that and there goes pretty quick so now when I'm resting my foot on the pedal we don't see any blue bar that means there's no brake activated and that's what you want but if I push on it you can see right away I'm getting some activation now I want to set the max on it I press it all the way to where I'm comfortable with with the force in fact I can usually go a little bit further and it's just about actually it's pretty good I'm gonna leave that there now if it was down here somewhere then I would set max and then save it so everybody's little different what you're gonna feel in your brake pedals how far hard you want to press yours so yeah that looks good to me that I'm comfortable with that because again we're gonna be setting fine-tuning it if you will whenever we're in a game I racing us out of course or whatever the case may be our factor 2 will be fine tuning it from there so yeah that's good for me now throttle same thing if I rest my foot on the throttle yeah I'm not getting anything which is good well let me see here yeah you can see though I'm going past on the top when I hit the top my pedal still moves a bit if you're watching the pedal picture so the bar is full but yet I can still move my throttle pedal so I need to fix that by hitting set max with the throttle all the way down to the stop so now it should fill up just as I hit the stop and there it is perfect now we'll go over to the clutch again we don't have a handbrake so clutch I'm resting my foot on the clutch nothing going on there which is great max Colette well it's a little bit the same way to throttle West you see how it's filled up there but I can still push it down a bit so I'm gonna hit this set max on that one and now it should stop it there we go just like we want it perfect the rest of my foot on the brake nothing going on till I'm pressing it alright that's how easy it is that was quick no no frills here it's just very simple application I really like this because it's fast it's accurate and yeah it just gets the job done and you can get on with having fun so here we are in iRacing at Sebring in the Lotus 79 for some heel and toe work yeah this is a good test I believe for a set of pedals usually this is what I like to do if it's a pedal a set that has three pedals in it and right away just throw it in there and do some healing toe banging on the pedals pretty hard here and just see if it's showing any weakness anywhere and as far as the frame and the assemblies here of course mean all metal the way it is and yeah I really don't feel any flex anywhere that I can tell the brake itself is still not stiff enough for me even though I have it set at the highest stiffness settings that I could get it but we'll do the performance kit to this brake pedal and see if we can't get that straightened out later on and yeah the pedal for the throttle is still little week I'd like to see a little stiffer and it's the throw right here is too far but I fixed that later on in another segment and yeah the clutch is actually pretty good I like the clutch here and the main thing here is can I do heel and toe shift on this pedal setting yeah pretty much you can see I can so we'll move over to the ring and the Ferrari and leave this is the 40 gt3 yep the gt3 and this is for the left left foot braking and this is a good track for that kind of thing because here you have to you have to be easy on your pedals there's a lot of nuances in some of the turns here because you're at speed and they're off canter and there's bumps and throwing you around a little bit on the hills and being able to feather the throttle like in the brake like coming up here this is just a really high speed entry to a series of turns and you have being able to modulate the brake in the throttle the same time really comes into play in this kind of environment and here again I wanted some more stiffness of the pedal but the pedal obviously as far as the brake pedal goes is doing its job it's allowing me to modulate the brake and do some trail braking as I'm in the in the corner and yeah you know again I'd like to have it stiffer because I feel like I can better feel the modulation or modulate the pressure if you will with a stiffer brake pedal but anyway yeah the throttle again here I think I have the authority R I can't be sure if this was where I had adjusted but I think the throw might be a little less long now and it's more comfortable to me as far as the foot stretching out over the throttle pedal but overall yeah this is I have to say this set of pedals is really a nice set for the price point that you're getting at I mean it's all metal it's very sturdy very stiff as you can see here I'm you know even when you saw in the heel toe shifting part yeah very stiff I got no complaints about flex in it just have a little bit complaints on the field the pedals and of course that's personal and subjective so what we'll do next is yeah once miles will get to the final thoughts on the club sport to v3 pedals from fnatic [Music] [Applause] [Music] final thoughts on the club sport v3 pedal set from fnatic right out of the box this is a very nice looking pedal set keeping in line with most of fanatics products the fit and finish is professionally done here I was happy to see a lack of plastic parts on the build of this unit and the all-metal construction was solid steel rods tying the aluminum size together gives this set a nice rigid feel when driving the VIII's I could not detect any flex from the pedal levers or the frame components a definite plus in my book using either heel in toe or left foot braking techniques when you're driving did not cause any drama for the VIII's the overall pedal feel out of the box was on the soft side of my preferences with only the clutch pedal having a feel that I didn't immediately want to change the brake pedal with the stock bumpers installed felt just too soft even with the brake preload screw turned to the maximum stiffness setting the throttle pedal felt too soft and the throw was a bit long for me personally I did install the black spring but still wanted more resistance than it provided it would be nice a fanatic add one more spring that was just a little bit stiffer you can't trust the throttle throw here but the process is not documented in the PDF manual for some reason I really like the way fanatic has gone to a Hall effect type sensor setup to replace the potentiometers they had before much less maintenance and a life a longer life cycle rather should be had here speaking of the electronics it's also quite pleased the fanatic has gone with a modular designed to make servicing the sensors and the 90 kilogram load cell unit a very easy process I wish more manufacturers would adopt this type of building mentality I also like that the fanatic has also included different pedal faces and ways to mount them in this package they could have easily made them in accessory items I will be reviewing the brake performance upgrade kit as I think it will make this brake pedal feel much better than it does now and we can't forget the v3 damper kit that I'm also going to give a try at a retail price of 330 dollars this pedal set sits in its own little space when compared to Logitech and Thrustmaster offerings and the more professional pedal sets out there overall I think this is a fair deal when comparing him this way I will still hold my final opinion though until we've reviewed the brake performance upgrade and damper kits I'm Barry Rowland thanks for watching the simracing garage channel and don't forget to hit the subscribe button and if you would like to support what I do here at that srg visit my website at some recent garage com

Channel: Sim Racing Garage

Views: 347,350

Keywords: sim racing, racing, assetto corsa, inside sim racing, iracing, sim racing girl, sim racing cockpit, gaming, fanatec, simulator, online racing, racing simulator, simracing, forza, rfactor, thrustmaster, racing wheel, simulation, logitech, vr, f1, gran turismo, shifter, simxperience, HPP, Heusinkveld, Sim Lab, Logitech, racing pedals, motion simulator, PS4, XBOX, computer racing, IMSA, WEC, gamer, nascar, scca, triple monitor, oculus, racing seat, sparco, momo, D-BOX, racer training, bodnar

Id: 4C1yDMlpP9Q

Length: 53min 26sec (3206 seconds)

Published: Fri Mar 29 2019