Sharpening on the Ookami Gold® Scissors Sharpening System

before we can sharpen our shear we need to take the share part we start by backing the screw out once the screw is out we want to remove both the screw and the washer there's always a washer in these shears so we want to make sure that the screw comes out along with the washer also this screw has a split into it it's actually split right down the middle of the screw which allows a little bit of spring tension as well we'll explain why that's important when we put this back together but once you have your hardware out of your blades make sure you put it in a safe place this is just the top of the economy polishing compound makes a great place to store screws and other parts hardware from the shears so now that we have the share apart we'll go ahead and start the sharpening process before we start sharpening we need to set our clamp setting of the clamp is simple we have the numbers that run down along the upright of the clamp you can see that they start but five degrees above zero and go all the way down to about 55 degrees you can actually go just a little bit past that it's very simple to actually set the clamp where the two parts of the clamp comes together it forms a line right down the center of the upper part of the clamp and the lower part of the clamp where that line is is where you set your angle and right now we have it set for 45 degrees to do these to do any adjustment to the clamp you just loosen the small knob you can slide the upright up and down and set whichever angle you wish turn it slightly on its side like this so will it'll allow you to hold the clamp and the upright in position use your thumb to hold it in position as you tighten the tension knob back down we have a set for rated about 45 degrees lock it down and now we are ready to sharpen we're going to place the clamp and start in the sharpen position so we can work on the sharpening wheel now that we've set our clamp to 45 degrees we're going to go ahead and start the sharpening most of your higher-end hollow ground convexed front surface sheers will be somewhere between 40 to 45 degrees in most cases I always start my scratch test at 45 degrees because there's not really a discernible angle on the blade that you can test with the angle gauge what I'm doing right now is I'm clamping the share into the clamp I'm clamping it halfway over the pivot hole with the pivot hole to the right-hand side of the clamp the reason that I do this is as I make a pass across the wheel I don't want to bump into the clamp this keeps me away from any portion of the blade that I'm actually going to be doing any sharpening to it also allows me to seat the blade into the clamp the same amount when I take it out and when I put it back in to do the polishing now that I have this set at 45 and my blade is in the clamp I'm going to do a scratch test so I'm gonna hold the blade up against the wheel I'm gonna spin downward with my thumb I'm gonna see where this scratches the edge I'm going to lift this out of the arm and then I'm gonna show you the scratch test see if we can get that in light a little bit hard to see you can actually see you get the gleam on either side and right here there we go there's that scratch right on the edge itself now I know I'm right at the edge so 45 looks good I'm gonna go ahead and make a pass across the wheel so we start by starting the Machine up make sure that your blade is straight in the clamp you want the cutting edge of your blade in line with the top portion of the clamp and then very lightly touch the outside corner of the wheel at the beginning of the cutting edge roll into the wheel and come across to the tip and come away I'm going to make one pass and then feel for a burr we have a burr and we're also check the cosmetics of the edge as well so let's take a look at the edge real quick here we go you can see we've got a good clean edge all the way down to the tip so with a burr and with a good clean looking edge this blade is now ready to be honed on the inside this view of the blade before we start you can see right down below the bottom of the screw hole right here there's a line that begins on the inside of the shear and it rotates itself all the way around the top where the cutting edge is from the back where the right area is behind the screw and all the way back up to the tip that's called the inside line this inside line is put into the shear to lend some strength to the inside of the blade if you cut just an angle into the hollow on the inside of the blade you'd have a very weak surface for the blades to work up against one another they would tear themselves apart basically when you did your cut so we're flattening out an inside portion of the blade so that the blades have something to ride up against as they cut the material that's put between them so what we need to do is work the shear on our honing blocks to reestablish this line before we move on to our polishing step we'll show you that next now that we've done the sharpening on this year and we've seen that we need to recreate that inside line that's Vaughn this year we will start with the D burr block this one's a little faded it's hard to see some come stamp more clearly than others but this does say D burr on this on this block on this one it says finish this block is coarser than this block so what we will do is we'll start with the coarser block to pull the burr back now as you lay the blade across the block you don't have to lay it straight across you might want to turn it at a slight degree of pitch maybe three degrees or so because there's a set to the scissor there's actually a bend in the blade this way here where it bends inward towards the inside and the tip kind of bends over just a little bit this allows for a shearing action of the blades because they need to be bent in towards one another if they were perfectly flat it would fold the material that it between the blades so we'll lay this across the block put three fingers of our left hand over the top of the blade and this hand is just a guide not going to be doing anything with this with this hand other than just holding it in position the pressure comes from these fingers and the drag comes from these fingers we're going to drag this year back towards myself lift off again start and then pull back and then I will go forward one more time and then I'll work back and forth and I'm going to do about ten or fifteen back strokes so we'll do three four five six seven eight nine ten eleven twelve thirteen fourteen fifteen and you also want to work the inside surface of the share as well so you can move it over slightly do a little bit of work on the inside of the ride area behind the screw and then go back over towards your tip come to a complete stop you need to come to a complete stop you don't want to come off with motion because you can radius the inside surface of the blade as you come off once you've come to a complete stop lift the blade off of the block we're not ready to start with the finish block again we will place the blade blade away from me three fingers over the blade pulled back towards myself to start and this time we're just going to work back and forth the reason that we don't have to stop and then go forward again is we're not pulling burrs back this time the Burroughs already been pulled back we will take the remainder of the burr off with the polishing wheel and we do our polishing step a lot of it will come off when we wipe the share down before we actually do our polishing as well I'm going to do about fifteen maybe twenty back strokes and then I'm going to come to a complete stop lift off of the block and then we'll check our inside line let's see if we can see this and you can see that I have reestablished an inside line on the shear and we are ready to move on to the next step which will be polishing this blade now that we've finished honing the inside of the first plate we're going to clamp the shear back in the clamp in the sharpened position halfway over the pivot hole with the pivot hole to the right once we clamp the shear into the clamp we're going to flip the whole clamp over and do our polishing now the wheel spins downward as the machine runs so you want your blade to face downward on this wheel this is a soft wheel you don't want your blade and the sharpen position with the edge facing up towards the wheel because it can cut into the wheel it will damage the wheel and possibly even damage the shear so make sure your blade is in the down position your clamp is in the honing position we will start our machine up and we will apply some polishing compound to the wheel just a light touch enough to cloud it up now we will work back and forth we'll do about ten back strokes so this would be three four five six seven eight nine ten if you want to you can work your tip just a little bit and your throat just a little bit and then do a couple of complete passes just to make sure that you've gotten full length of the share once done come away from the wheel we're gonna check the inside of the blade now see if we can see this with the video it's always a little bit hard because of lighting but I'm looking for trash on the inside of the blade you can see a little bit right here in the corner and I can see that all the way down the blade I see it up at the tip just a little bit as well a little bit better but if you have trash on the inside of the blade you've reached your edge now that we're done with our polishing we will put our clamp back in the arm shut the Machine off we will remove the blade from the clamp and we will wipe it down be careful as you wipe the blade down do not run your fingers right down the blade you don't want to cut yourself and we will set that blade aside and now we'll start on the next play now that I finished polishing the first blade I'm gonna set it to the right hand side of the machine that way I know that it's doing and I'll start on my second blade we start again by clamping the share into the clamp halfway over the pivot hole with the pivot hole to the right we'll go ahead and do a scratch test on the shear I usually sharpen each blade the same angle from one blade to the other but if you want it to do a scratch test you can at least see where you're at lift this up and take a look the scratch test looks good so we'll go ahead and start our sharpening again make sure you in the sharpen position we'll start the machine up I'm gonna make a very light touch the outside corner of the wheel where the edge begins and then run across the wheel to the tip come straight away from the wheel and we'll feel for a burr we'll check our edge which looks good just like the last time so we have our burr we have our edge we are ready now to hone the inside of this blade now that we have sharpened our second blade we will go ahead and deburr our second blade again place your blade over the block blade away from you three fingers of the left hand pull back towards yourself to start again and then we'll work back and forth make sure you work your right area as well come back over to the tip come to a complete stop lift off and we'll do the same thing with the finish come to a complete stop lift off it'll check the inside line again which looks good so we are ready to move on to our next step which is polishing this blade now that we've honed the inside of our second blade we'll clamp the second blade back in the clamp halfway over the pivot hole with the pivot hole to the right flip the clamp from the sharpen position into the honing position turn our machine on add a little compound to the wheel and we'll work back and forth work our tip of the lecture and I throw it a little bit extra make a couple of complete passes you come right away from the wheel again we check for the trash on the inside of the blade I have reached the inside so I'm done polishing I'll shut the Machine down remove the blade from the clamp and we'll go ahead wipe it down now that both of our blades have been polished we're ready to put the share back together and do our tests now that we've polished both of our blades we're ready to put the blades back together we'll take our screw remember this is a split end screw so we have to be careful how we place it back in the blades you want to make sure that you put the screw into the recessed hole in the blade whenever you're taking shears apart always be paying attention to what you're doing you want to be able to put the blade back together in their proper orientation and then a seat the clamp into the blade with the washer I'll put my thumb over the screw mate the two together the two blades slide the one blade down and switch fingers this will allow me to hold onto the screw it won't go flying out of the scissor and we will take our screwdriver I'm going to back up just a little bit to let it seed into position it kind of popped into place that way I know I've caught my threads and I'm gonna go ahead and tighten the share up now you don't want to get this year too tight and then remember - this is a split end screw so it's gonna feel a little tighter kind of tricky adjust a little bit you don't want the shear to be really really loose you don't need it to be floppy loose you just need to make sure that it's you know reasonably secure where is that well if you have any trouble with this make sure you call us at wolf at one eight hundred eight eight eight three eight three two this is a little bit hard to explain in a video not easy to explain over the phone as well but we can help you out and after a few tries you'll get this down pat without a problem all I'm doing is making sure I don't have too much wiggle on that blade so we'll keep tightening slightly until we get to a comfortable amount of wiggle just a little bit more alright and that feels pretty good now at this point we need to remove burrs and we'll show you that with a little bit of paper towel now that we put the share back together make sure you keep it in the open position it's important that it stays in this open position that way we can remove the burrs or any leftover burrs that are there from the polishing step remember that you have burrs on either blade off of the Polish and you want to make sure that you remove those gently from the blade the way you do that is you cut the burrs off but it's best to cut them off on paper towel and what we want to do is we want to do a portion of a cut about a third of the way down the blade for the first cut and then we'll do the same thing again for the second cut go a little bit further down about two-thirds of the way down the blade and then finally we'll do a complete cut this will ease the burrs off of the blade because of the paper towel typically we use something like viva or something along those lines so it's a paper towel that has very little wood grain in it and is excellent for removing burrs now that our burrs have been removed we can go ahead and do our free fall test and we'll go ahead and do that in just a second to do our free fall check on this year we want to make sure that the tip is pointing straight up at the ceiling and we're gonna drop one blade against the other now I may have to loosen this year or tighten this year I'm not sure which depending upon how the share actually does on off of this drop test so we'll let this fall and you can see this year is really just way too loose so even though I got it reasonably tight to remove the burrs I still have to do a little bit more work to this year in order to get it to drop properly the free fall test you want it to stop at about the halfway point it can be just a little bit proud of that or it can stop a little prior to the halfway point but you're shooting for rate around that target right there where the blades close about halfway up the cut so we'll just tighten the screw up slightly and just a little bit really does go a long way so make sure you test frequently as you do your cutting all right now that is almost just a little bit too tight so what we'll do is we'll check and see if the washer is seated most people don't realize that you do need to wiggle this back and forth because that washer was put into the shear sometimes it doesn't cup up onto the head of the screw properly so we'll give this a good wiggle and then we'll drop test again and you can see how much it moved so what we need to do just a little tighter let her fall again you can see it's a little bit falling a little prior to where the center point is that actually looks pretty good at this point and we'll go ahead and stop there and we'll do our test to test this year we're going to test on Kleenex we do is we'll test on two layers first to see if we have a good clean cut all the way to the tip which we do then we will go from two layers to one layer and do that same test see if we have a good clean cut right to the tip make sure there's no catch at the tip as well you want the Kleenex to just fall away without any catch which we're doing fine next in line will be a wet test on the Kleenex so we'll just spray it down so it's wet open up the shear and do a test cut it should cut the Kleenex clean all the way to the tip all right that looks good no catches no pull so final test would be here as I cut the hair I'm looking for any hair slide and I'm making sure it cuts clean all the way to the tip this year cuts well so we'll just wipe it down and it is ready to go back to your customer you you

Channel: Wolff Industries Inc.

Views: 83,647

Keywords: scissors, scissors sharpening, beauty shears, convex shears

Id: MtTttSysgHI

Length: 20min 53sec (1253 seconds)

Published: Tue Dec 05 2017